Western-style Tsubaki Restaurant by Reservation Only

Gifu City is located in the southern part of Gifu Prefecture. Skyscrapers line the area around JR Gifu Station, the gateway to the city. In the old days, Dozo Saito laid the foundation of the city, and Nobunaga Oda, who became the husband of his daughter Kicho, opened Rakuichi Rakuza. In recent years, the area has become a bedroom community, partly because it is only a 20-minute train ride to Nagoya City. Many businessmen and students commute to companies and universities in neighboring Aichi Prefecture, and many people spend their holidays at large shopping centers in the suburbs, giving the area a typical modern regional city face.

On the other hand, it is not widely known that the demand for eating out is high, with citizens spending one of the five highest amounts on dining out in Japan, and the number of restaurants per 1,000 population is one of the highest in Japan. In such an environment, the restaurant ” Western-style Tsubaki” attracts visitors from both inside and outside of the prefecture and is open by reservation only.

Western-style cuisine served in an old private house full of nostalgia

The restaurant is located at the foot of a quiet mountain about 20 minutes north by car from JR Gifu Station. The well-maintained garden with a babbling brook echoing pleasantly reminds one of a luxury ryokan (Japanese inn). Just walking from the gate to the entrance of the restaurant is enough to give you the illusion that you have come for a kaiseki meal. The interior of the restaurant has a modern Japanese style, and you have to take off your shoes at the entrance.

Chopsticks are placed on a Japanese paper luncheon mat laid on a table with the warmth of wood. The plates on which the food is served are all white with gold rims in a simple design. It has the appearance of the “elegant Western-style food” that everyone imagines in the old days. This is Western-style food served in a Japanese-style space. The menu consists mainly of course meals, but a la carte dishes are also available, and there is a wide selection of wines to match the dishes.

What we can do because we are a Wagyu beef specialist

Tanakaya Food Service is one of the restaurants operated by Tanakaya Food Service, a company based in Ibigun, Gifu Prefecture, that operates restaurants focusing on meat. Tanakaya Food Service Co., Ltd. will also open “Butcher Tanaka” in Ginza 6-chome, a prime location in Tokyo, in 2020. The restaurant has become a hot topic as an authentic meat kappo restaurant that serves only one omakase course, using the best brand meat of the day as its main ingredient. The representative, Satoru Tanaka, is a true specialist of Japanese beef, calling himself a “meat master. He opened his first yakiniku restaurant at the age of 25, expanding to Tokyo, Aichi, Gifu, and Shiga, and in 2019, his Nagoya restaurant “Nikuya Setsugetsuka” won a Michelin plate, making his name known nationwide. The restaurant’s name has become a national standard. He is also highly regarded in the industry.

What made “Western-style Tsubaki” so popular was the fact that it used only A5-rank brand beef in its classic Western-style menu of steaks and hamburgers. By reviewing the ingredients of the menu, which has been loved by many people for many years, the restaurant has updated the taste. Hida beef, Matsuzaka beef, Mikawa beef, Omi beef, Kobe beef… He has dealt with more Wagyu beef than anyone else and has studied for many years how to bring out the best of it, so he knows which parts of Wagyu beef to use and how to use them, working backward from the ideal flavor, and has the skills to embody them.

A “formula” that captures the hearts and minds of gourmands

The brand name and individual identification number of the beef used in the restaurant are posted on the wall, which shows the attention to detail. Branded Wagyu beef x standard Western-style food = “Wagyu Western-style food. It may seem like a formula that anyone could come up with, but the solution can only be seen by those with a keen eye. That is why the restaurant has been able to capture the hearts and stomachs of many gourmands. The pride as a butcher that stands dignifiedly in the nostalgic menu may open the door to a new era of Western cuisine in Japan and create a new genre that people want to inherit for a long time to come. This is a restaurant you should definitely visit.

The post Standard Western-style cuisine and Western-style Tsubaki, only a craftsman with a thorough knowledge of Wagyu beef can serve / Gifu City, Gifu Prefecture, Japan first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Lake Biwa is the largest lake in Japan. The people of Shiga Prefecture, where Lake Biwa is located, have a unique food culture that has been passed down through the generations by people who have lived alongside the water. Just as the mountain trout and char caught in the rivers are called “river fish”, the fish caught in Lake Biwa are called “lake fish” in Shiga Prefecture. The most representative of these lake fish is the ayu, which boasts the largest catch of any lake fish. What’s more, it is said that this is a special ayu that can only be caught here.

A special “koayu” that lives only in Lake Biwa, a treasure of Shiga Prefecture

Ayu (sweetfish) is a freshwater fish that has been loved in Japan since ancient times. Its refreshing aroma, delicate flavor and slightly bitter taste are loved by the Japanese, and even the famous gourmet Kitaoji Rosanjin said that the best way to eat ayu is “to grill it without removing the entrails, and then to dip it in a mixture of salt and watercress vinegar that is so hot it will burn you. The freshly caught ayu has a scent similar to that of watermelon or cucumber in early summer, so it is called “the scented fish”, and it is also called “the queen of clear streams” because it likes clear, clean streams.

In Japan, ayu are generally born in rivers, grow up in the sea, and then return to the rivers, but the ayu of Lake Biwa are a little different. They are called “koayu” (small ayu), and are unique to Lake Biwa. After being born in rivers, they go down to Lake Biwa and live there. While ayu generally grow to around 20 cm, the largest koayu adults are only about 10 cm. They stop growing at around the same size as young ayu. You would think that they would grow bigger as they live in the vast Lake Biwa, but the fact that they don’t is due to the environment of Lake Biwa, where there is a lack of algae that ayu feed on. The ayu of Lake Biwa are the only ayu in the world that live in this special habitat.

Strong, delicate flavor

The ayu season is from May to early August. During this time, local supermarkets will be selling ayu from Lake Biwa, and the aroma of soy sauce cooking tsukudani will be wafting through the air around the lake. The way ayu is cooked varies from region to region, household to household, and even from processor to processor, and it has been passed down as a food culture that is deeply rooted in the local area and unique to Shiga Prefecture.

Ayu is characterized by its fine, smooth scales and soft skin and bones, which means that it can be eaten whole. Although they are about the same size as young ayu, they are fully grown fish, so they have a stronger flavor than young ayu, but without any strong taste. They also have a slightly bitter taste that is unique to ayu, and they are widely loved by people of all ages in Shiga Prefecture, from children to adults, as a kind of soul food, in dishes such as the local dish of Shiga Prefecture, tsukudani, as well as tempura, marinated dishes, and nanban-zuke.

Could the ayu from all over the country have their roots in Lake Biwa?

The small ayu from Lake Biwa were thought to be different from the ayu from rivers because they did not grow large even when they grew up. However, when they were released into the Tama River in Tokyo in 1913, it was discovered that they grew large in the same way as ayu from rivers. Since then, ayu from Lake Biwa have been shipped all over the country for release into rivers and for aquaculture. There may be quite a few ayu seen in rivers all over the country that have their roots in Lake Biwa.

There is a saying that symbolizes the Omi Merchants who were active based in Shiga Prefecture: “Ayu from Lake Biwa grow bigger when they go out into the world.” This is said to mean that just as ayu grow bigger in rivers after being released into rivers all over the country after leaving Lake Biwa, people from Shiga also grow by going out into the world.

Ayu no mise Kimura” sells lake fish dishes that are particular about the ingredients.

There is a shop in Hikone City, Shiga Prefecture, that processes and sells ayu from Lake Biwa in a variety of foods. “Ayu no mise Kimura” is a specialty shop for ayu that was established in 1970. In 1953, before the shop was established, it pioneered ayu farming nationwide, and it continues to pursue the production of high-quality ayu that is not inferior to natural ayu.

The company produces and sells lake fish dishes made with fresh ingredients, such as the “jewel of Lake Biwa” Biwa trout and funazushi (fermented crucian carp), a specialty of Shiga Prefecture, as well as ayu fish raised in their own aquaculture and small ayu caught in Lake Biwa.

Aquaculture methods that bring out the full flavor of ayu

“Sometimes even the locals are surprised to learn that there is a large fish farm in the middle of the city. There are about 40 ponds at the fish farm, and there are currently about 15 tons of small ayu in total, but we will raise them to a larger size and eventually they will reach 20 to 30 tons,” says Mr. Masahiro Kimura, the fourth generation of the company. Indeed, it is quite an unusual sight to see such a large fish farm behind a store in the middle of a city with shops and houses lining the streets. Perhaps this is a sight that can only be seen here.

Ayu are cultivated using mineral-rich spring water pumped up from 300 meters underground, and are raised slowly over a period of 5 to 6 months in relatively cool water. Also, because ayu are sensitive to changes in their environment and easily stressed, in order to raise them in an environment as close to nature as possible, a waterwheel is used to recreate the fast-flowing water of a river upstream. By making them swim vigorously, they are said to develop a firm, elegant, and light taste. In order to create a place where ayu can play, the pond is made into an octagonal shape. “Ayu die quickly when there is not enough oxygen, so we circulate the water to ensure that there is plenty of oxygen in the water, and we raise them in an environment as close to nature as possible,” says Mr. Kimura. This is the kind of thorough attention to detail that you would expect from a long-established company that started out as a fish farm.

Caring for the resources of Lake Biwa

In general, wild ayu eat algae that grows naturally on the riverbed, so they have a rich aroma, while farmed ayu are said to contain a lot of fat. However, the ayu farmed at this company are very aromatic and have a firm texture. “To raise good ayu, the feed and water are important. We feed them our original feed, which is made from fishmeal with little fishy smell, and also includes algae and propolis. The ayu we raise have a flavor that rivals that of wild fish, and they are very popular with customers at restaurants all over the country. We even ship them alive to Toyosu in Tokyo,” says Mr. Kimura.

For the aquaculture, they always use natural fry caught in Lake Biwa. In other prefectures, there are producers who farm artificially hatched ayu, but in Shiga Prefecture, it is customary to farm ayu by bringing in live fry from Lake Biwa. For this reason, they do not artificially hatch eggs. This is truly a job that makes the most of the wonderful resources that can be found here.

Incidentally, this benefit also affects the taste itself. It is said that ayu from Lake Biwa have finer, smoother scales, softer bones and skin, and a better texture than artificially hatched ayu. The natural ayu are carefully raised in a safer environment. It is this commitment to quality that has made Mr. Kimura’s ayu so popular.

Enjoy the natural bounty that can only be found here with “small ayu simmered in soy sauce

Ayu no mise Kimura’s “small ayu simmered in soy sauce” is a dish made by expert chefs who spend several hours simmering small ayu caught from Lake Biwa in the morning in small kettles, so that they remain fresh. As they are cooked in small batches with care, they do not fall apart, and they are finished with a sweet and mild flavor using locally produced soy sauce and sake.

Ayu fish tsukudani is a traditional local dish from Shiga Prefecture. The ayu fish, which has no strong flavor but is very tasty, is cooked until it is tender, even down to the bones, so it can be enjoyed as a side dish with rice or as a snack. It is a popular signature product, not only with regular local customers but also with tourists as a souvenir.

Ayu fish grilled with salt” lets you enjoy the rich aroma in its entirety.

Kimura-san recommends “grilled ayu with salt” as “the best way to eat it”. Among lake fish, people like to eat biwa trout and carp sashimi, but many people say that grilled ayu is the best way to eat it.

At Ayu no mise Kimura, they quickly chill the ayu they have just taken out of the tank with ice, and then grill it on a skewer while it is still fresh. By slowly roasting the fish with the mouth facing down, the excess fat is said to remain inside the ayu, and the fish is finished with a delicious aroma right down to the core. In addition to being able to enjoy the aroma and flavor of the ayu itself, the skin is crisp and fragrant, and the flesh is light and fluffy and soft. This is a dish that we also recommend to those who don’t like river fish.

We want to convey the appeal of ayu caught in Lake Biwa.

In recent years, small ayu have become particularly popular. “In the past, it was normal to send ayu that had been grown in fish farms and then packed in ice to the market, but recently, people have come to prefer the smaller ayu. Compared to the larger ayu, the bitterness of the liver is weaker and it is softer, so you can eat the whole fish, including the bones, and still enjoy the distinctive ayu flavor. The characteristics of the smaller ayu go well with tempura and fried dishes, and there is an increasing number of inquiries from restaurants in the Tokyo area and elsewhere about this easy-to-enjoy summer delicacy,” says Mr. Kimura.

While the ayu that grow to a large size reach their peak season, the ayu from Lake Biwa have a special value in that you can enjoy their seasonal flavor while they are still small. “I want to continue to propose new ways of eating and cooking while also preserving the traditional food culture”. Mr. Kimura’s thoughts like this will open up new possibilities for the ayu from Lake Biwa and give them the power to swim further afield.

The post A summer tradition of Lake Biwa: Ayu no mise Kimura, a restaurant that conveys the deliciousness of Shiga’s ayu/Hikone City, Shiga Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kishimen, one of Nagoya’s gourmet foods, is a noodle characterized by its wide width. It is thinner than udon but has a firm texture and a smooth texture. However, it has been less exposed than other major noodles such as udon, soba, and ramen, which has resulted in a noticeable decrease in the number of young people eating kishimen. Recently, however, a new trend in the kishimen industry has begun to emerge, thanks to the efforts of Takahiro Horie, who runs a handmade udon store in Nagoya.

Kishimen, Aichi Prefecture’s local delicacy

Kishimen” is known as Nagoya meshi (Nagoya food). In fact, it is not limited to Nagoya City, but is eaten throughout Aichi Prefecture. It is said to have its roots in “string noodles,” a specialty of Kariya City, Aichi Prefecture, and it is believed that Kishimen is a good match for Aichi Prefecture, where many people like their noodles well seasoned and the sauce easily soaks into the noodles.

Its characteristic feature is its flat noodles. The noodles are thinner than udon noodles, but have a firm texture and a smooth texture, and the sauce that soaks through the noodles is very appealing.

What is the difference between kishimen, udon, and stewed noodles?

In addition to kishimen, there are other types of noodles that are representative of Nagoya-meshi, such as miso nikomi udon and Nagoya udon. Although they all seem to be the same type of udon, the ingredients and proportions of the noodles used in each dish vary according to the cooking method and purpose, and the textures vary accordingly.

Kishimen is the most time-consuming type of noodle to make. Kishimen requires more than twice as much time as the process of ordinary udon noodles because the dough is stretched thin to make the noodles wide, which is one of the main characteristics of kishimen. In addition, the amount of dough that can be made at one time is limited because the dough spreads out and occupies the noodle-making table. If 10 servings of udon can be made in the same amount of time and under the same conditions, only 5 servings of kishimen can be made. Although it is a Nagoya specialty, the inefficiency has led an increasing number of restaurants to stop serving kishimen and switch to udon only.

From a noodle diner opened by the previous generation, the three mainstays of the restaurant are udon, kishimen, and stewed noodles.

Mr. Horie, who runs “Teuchi Udon Takasago” in Nagoya City, inherited the noodle restaurant founded by his father in 1958. A noodle diner is a general term for a diner in town that serves not only udon but also Chinese soba noodles and set meals. After his father passed away, Mr. Horie took over the restaurant and has since been running it with a focus on handmade udon, kishimen (flat noodles), and nikomi udon as the three mainstays of the menu.

After training in Tokyo, he learned the techniques by watching and imitating.

Before he started making udon in Takasago, he trained at a soba restaurant in Tokyo. Two years later, he returned to his father’s store, where he stole the skills of his brothers and sisters while watching them make udon noodles.

He aims to make noodles that are gentle but have a core, with a bit of a bite at the end. I learned the technique not only by thinking about it in my head, but also by actually doing it, and finally I was able to consistently produce the ideal noodles,” said Horie.

The handmade noodles made with this unique technique have received high praise, and the restaurant is now so famous that it is listed in the Michelin Guide.

Udon noodles in Nagoya have a high density of salt water. Reason for leaving them overnight before stretching.

Udon and kishimen are both made from wheat flour and salted water. Their production processes are almost the same, differing only in the thickness of the dough to be stretched at the beating stage. However, the salt water used to make udon in Nagoya is more concentrated than that used to make noodles in Kagawa Prefecture, which is famous as an udon prefecture.

Although it is difficult to generalize because it depends on the season and weather conditions, Nagoya uses salt water with a density of 18 to 20%, compared to 10% in other areas. The higher the concentration, the tighter the dough. Since Nagoya is a region with high temperatures, the higher salt concentration is probably used to make the dough firmer to prevent the noodles from sloughing off in the heat,” says Horie.

In addition, Nagoya’s udon noodles are made using a method known as “Nagoya-uchi. The major difference between Nagoya udon and udon from other regions is that the dough is left to rest overnight, and a process known as “navel-dashi (hon-maruke)” is used to shape the dough into a round shape by pressing the dough into a ball with fingers. The process of letting the dough rest overnight promotes the formation of gluten, making it sticky and elastic, while the process of heso-dashi removes air from the dough, making it hard to break and giving it a strong firmness. These steps are what make Nagoya udon unique.

Talking with the dough while making noodles

Mr. Horie makes udon and yakishimen noodles every day, but the process is not the same. He says, “I make the noodles while talking to the dough, like, ‘It’s soft today because of the high humidity. We call forming the dough ‘forging,’ but we don’t forge it unnecessarily, but rather let the dough rest and avoid overworking it,” says Horie. The dough is made to look its best on any given day by making fine adjustments, such as adding more salt during the summer months when the dough tends to be less firm, or reducing the amount of water used on rainy days.

Promoting Kishimen to the younger generation and making it an everyday food option

Kishimen is the soul food of the people of Aichi Prefecture, but it is actually in danger of decline. As mentioned above, Kishimen requires more time and effort to prepare than other types of noodles. In addition, miso nikomi udon, which is stewed over a long period of time, requires less preparation on the part of the restaurant and is more popular with tourists. Even for the locals, there are not many opportunities to eat kishimen, and even in Takasago, until about three years ago, only two or three servings of kishimen were served per week.

However, Mr. Horie, who wanted to preserve the kishimen culture, decided to convey the deliciousness of kishimen to the younger generation at his casual restaurant. He decided to open “Hoshigaoka Noodle Factory” in 2021, a restaurant where people can casually drop by, by introducing machine-made noodles and freezing technology.

Hoshigaoka Terrace, where “Hoshigaoka Noodle Factory” is located, is lined with apparel stores and cafes, and is a place where many young people come and go. The location and production method of the store may seem opposite to that of Takasago, which insists on handmade noodles, but Mr. Horie explains the true reason for this. The cost of preparing noodles by hand is high, and mass production is not possible. But I wanted young people to enjoy shishimen in the same way they enjoy curry or ramen. I thought that machine-made noodles, which incorporate hand-made techniques, would be comparable in taste and be easily enjoyed.

In the year since Hoshigaoka Noodle Factory opened, approximately 100,000 servings of Kishimen have been ordered. Moreover, customers who discovered the deliciousness of Kishimen began to visit Takasago as well. The customer base has also changed, with groups of high school girls coming to the store, mothers’ friends coming for lunch, and children coming to the store before going to cram school.

From the Tokai area to the rest of the country and overseas

The success of Hoshigaoka Ramen Noodle House has brought joy from other companies in the same industry. The success of Hoshigaoka Seimenjo has brought more young people to visit the traditional udon store, saying, “I want to try the kishimen from other stores. However, in order to ensure that this is not a temporary boom, Mr. Horie is continuing to vigorously promote kishimen, including the development of franchises.

Currently, Hoshigaoka Seimenjo has outlets in Aichi and Osaka prefectures, but eventually we would like to expand the culture of kishimen from Hokkaido to Okinawa. In the future, I would like to increase the number of kishimen fans overseas,” says Horie. Someday, Kishimen will become the standard noodle food in Japan like udon, soba, and ramen, and spread throughout the world. Imagining such a future, the udon store that started out as a one-stop store in Nagoya continues to introduce the appeal of kishimen from a new angle in an effort to uncover a wide range of needs.

The post Supporting the dying Kishimen culture with a new type of business. Takahiro Horie of Teuchi Udon Takasago / Nagoya City, Aichi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The history of Inaniwa Udon

Located in the Inaniwa district of Yuzawa City in southern Akita Prefecture, Inaniwa udon originated over 350 years ago when Sato Kiszaemon (later known as Inaniwa Kiszaemon) began producing dried udon noodles in this area, surrounded by the pristine flow of rivers and lush forests of the beautiful Satoyama countryside. It became the official supplier to the Satake clan, the lords of the Akita domain, and has been passed down through generations as a closely guarded secret. Currently, the 16th generation Inaniwa Kiszaemon focuses on preserving tradition by limiting production to a small portion for distribution, ensuring the continuity of the family heritage. Concerned about the potential loss of this tradition due to its secretive nature, the technique of making Inaniwa udon was specially passed down to the second generation Sato Yosuke (now Sato Yosuke Shoten) at the end of the Edo period.

Located in the Inaniwa district of Yuzawa City in southern Akita Prefecture, Inaniwa udon originated over 350 years ago when Sato Kiszaemon (later known as Inaniwa Kiszaemon) began producing dried udon noodles in this area, surrounded by the pristine flow of rivers and lush forests of the beautiful Satoyama countryside. It became the official supplier to the Satake clan, the lords of the Akita domain, and has been passed down through generations as a closely guarded secret. Currently, the 16th generation Inaniwa Kiszaemon focuses on preserving tradition by limiting production to a small portion for distribution, ensuring the continuity of the family heritage. Concerned about the potential loss of this tradition due to its secretive nature, the technique of making Inaniwa udon was specially passed down to the second generation Sato Yosuke (now Sato Yosuke Shoten) at the end of the Edo period.

The secret of the delicious taste of udon noodles made by Sato Yoetsu Honpo

To make Inaniwa udon, you start by mixing plenty of saltwater with wheat flour, kneading and fermenting the dough repeatedly to create the base. Then, you cut it into strips about 3 cm wide and roll them into small logs. The process on the second day, called ‘hand-twisting,’ is what I consider the most important step,” says Sato. Using two hanging rods, the dough is quickly and rhythmically stretched into an “eight” shape while twisting the udon. This hand-twisting process, which involves almost half of the personnel in the entire process of making Inaniwa udon, is crucial. Due to the softness of the dough, which is softened by adding plenty of water, handwork is necessary to twist it. Sato describes Inaniwa udon as similar to fermented foods because it undergoes fermentation at various stages of the process. Indeed, during the dough stage, it is left to ferment for a long time, emitting a sweet aroma reminiscent of bread. The finished noodles, though slightly thinner than typical udon, have a flat cross-section, characteristic of Inaniwa udon. Despite their appearance, they have a remarkably firm texture and chewiness. Adjustments to the moisture and salt content are made based on the day’s humidity and temperature, and the noodles are aged for 3 to 4 days to develop their unique texture and smooth mouthfeel.

At Sato Yoetsu Honke, only domestically harvested wheat, harvested within a year, is used as the raw material for udon. Additionally, all other ingredients such as salt and starch are also domestically sourced. Both the ingredients and the manufacturing process are purely domestic, and this is the essence of Sato’s dedication. It is an indispensable commitment for the udon produced by Sato Yoetsu.

Applying the techniques used to make Inaniwa udon, Sato-san ventured into creating “Inaniwa Chuka” (Chinese-style noodles). Being a ramen enthusiast, he wondered if he could adapt the udon-making techniques to produce Chinese-style noodles. Initially, he experimented with fresh noodles, but during that time, he received advice from a renowned ramen shop owner in Tokyo to utilize the Inaniwa udon technique to make dried noodles instead. Thus, “Inaniwa Chuka” was born. While ramen shops typically use fresh noodles, Sato’s Inaniwa Chuka features straight, dried noodles that are sun-dried for a full two days, retaining the same texture and quality as Inaniwa udon.

Nowadays, the popularity of Inaniwa Chuka is such that specialized ramen shops in Akita City use these noodles. Sato-san envisions opening an eatery in the Inaniwa district that not only offers udon but also ramen, pasta, soba, and other noodle dishes made using the techniques of Inaniwa udon. It’s exciting to see the new noodle products from Sato Yoetsu Honke, born from traditional techniques, continue to evolve in the future.

The post Sato Yoetsu Honpo, a popular Inaniwa Udon noodle and Inaniwa Chinese noodle manufacturer. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

WAKA Ristorante, a creative Italian restaurant

Kuramoto-cho is known for the University of Tokushima’s medical school and hospital, and is a convenient 6-minute train ride from JR Tokushima Station. WAKA Ristorante is located in a building facing the main street. The restaurant was formerly known as “Casa Marino,” a trattoria where Kazunori Wakabayashi, who had worked at popular Italian restaurants in Tokyo and Kansai, moved to his wife’s hometown, Tokushima, about 25 years ago and boasted overwhelming popularity as the owner-chef. In 2017, the restaurant’s name and location were changed to “WAKA Ristorante” in order to make it a more upscale ristorante and to create a restaurant with a focus on quality. The restaurant’s omakase course, which is available only by reservation, is very popular, and its reputation is well known among food lovers outside of the prefecture. Many fans visit the restaurant every time they come to Tokushima. Nakata recommends Ristorante for its “unique and creative Italian cuisine.
The ingredients used in the courses are all fresh local ingredients from Tokushima and the best imported from all over the country.
For example, the star of the specialty “Tokushima Yuki Wild Lobster Tagliolini” is a wild lobster from Yuki, Tokushima Prefecture. The rich and aromatic sauce is made by stewing the freshly cut live lobsters with tomatoes, and the tagliolini is entwined with the flavor of the fresh pasta, giving it an irresistible, chewy texture. While Tokushima Prefecture is famous for its seafood, Chef Wakabayashi says that the vegetables are also superb. For example, the pointed fruit tomato “Renaissance” grown by AgriBest in Awa City is a gem with few seeds and high sugar content. The ‘koku shiitake’ mushrooms produced in Kamiyama are also delicious with a strong flavor,” says Wakabayashi.

Upscale yet homey Italian cuisine

The main staple, “Awa Beef Chateaubriand Steak,” also features the fine fat of an A5-rank female. Awa Beef is raised in Tokushima Prefecture, which is blessed with abundant water, which results in a fine texture of fat. Chef Wakabayashi places great importance on bringing out the freshness and flavor of these carefully selected ingredients when preparing his dishes. In his courses, he not only brings the ingredients to the forefront, but also sometimes uses them as a soup stock. It is precisely because Chef Wakabayashi knows Tokushima’s delicious food so well that he is able to fully utilize its potential in his own cuisine.
Chef Wakabayashi is particular about not only the food but also the space. He welcomes visitors with the warmth of high-quality wood, using zelkova and cherry trees he cut from his own mountain for the entrance door and tables. The restaurant also chooses Tokushima-made tableware and cutlery, and Otani-yaki plates further enhance the beauty of the cuisine. The cuisine has a luxurious feel, but the relaxed, homey atmosphere may be the secret to making you want to come back again. If you are ever in Tokushima, be sure to make a reservation and visit.

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Oenosato Nature Farm” raises hens in a flat-fed, stress-free environment. The eggs produced by the hens raised here are named “Tenbiran” (meaning “Heavenly Blessed Delicious Eggs” in Japanese). The price of these eggs is about 120 yen per egg. The price is more than three times higher than the price of a typical chicken egg, which is about 300 yen for a pack of 10 eggs. Today, however, the price of eggs has become less surprising as high-end eggs are now available, but it is no exaggeration to say that Oenosato Nature Farm’s Tenbi Eggs were the pioneers of high-end eggs, as they have been sold at this price since the late 1990s when the farm was established. The history of the company is filled with the founder’s desire to “raise the value of eggs.

An urban building that is hard to believe is a ranch nestled deep in the mountains

Oenosato Nature Farm is located in Hachigamachi, in the southeastern part of Tottori Prefecture. It is not far from the city, about 30 to 40 minutes by car from Tottori City, but as the name of the facility suggests, it is located in a mountainous area rich in nature, surrounded by greenery all around.

An urban glass-walled building suddenly appears in the midst of such great nature. From the front, at first glance, the sophisticated design does not look like a ranch, and rightly so. While it is a farm where more than 30,000 chickens are raised, it is also one of the most popular facilities in the prefecture, attracting more than 360,000 visitors a year, with a variety of large and small food booths, patisseries, bakeries, cafes, and gift stores.
However, it is not the popularity of the restaurants and gift stores that has made the facility so famous, but the poultry farming that has made it so well known.
The history of Oenosato Nature Farm began with its founder, Mr. Riichiro Obara, who still serves as its representative, and his 2,000 chickens.

From Doubts about Modern Poultry Farming to Independence

Why did he name his farm “ranch” instead of “poultry farm,” even though he is primarily a chicken farmer and does not engage in any other livestock farming?
The reason is deeply rooted in Mr. Obara’s experience.
Before opening Oenosato Nature Farm, Mr. Obara worked at a large poultry farm. There, chickens were kept crammed into a small space separated by cages. Cage-keeping is the practice at many poultry farms. Although he understood the reality of modern poultry farming, which demands productivity, he could not shake off his doubts and pain about this method of keeping chickens, and he could not bear to continue working as a poultry farmer.
Although he had once left the poultry farming business, Mr. Obara was still attracted to the work of poultry farming. Wanting to try a method of raising chickens in a natural environment, he decided to open a poultry farm in the rich natural environment of Oe, where his grandfather used to live.

At that time, Mr. Obara chose the “flat-feeding” method to realize his ideal chicken raising.
The chickens are free to run around in the spacious, sunlit coop without any partitions, and they are muscular and healthy. The chickens are free to run around freely and are muscular and healthy. They choose their favorite places to bathe in the sand or play in the sun, and spend their time comfortably, thereby minimizing their stress. Nowadays, more and more poultry farms are adopting this method of chicken rearing, which is called “animal welfare,” but at that time, it was still a rarity.
The chickens living here are gentle and very friendly,” says Obara. Even today, about 2,000 chickens are kept in one coop, and they almost never fight. At the poultry farm where he used to work, there were times when chickens in close proximity pecked each other, perhaps due to stress, and their feathers were torn to pieces. Based on this experience, Mr. Obara is now raising chickens while constantly thinking about the kind of environment he would like to be kept in if he were the chicken himself.
The ideal home he has created for his chickens is more like a ranch than a poultry farm. Mr. Obara named his facility “ranch” because he wanted to engage in poultry farming in such an environment.

Fresh eggs that you know the day they were laid.

As mentioned above, the eggs laid by the hens raised at the Oenosato Nature Farm are called “Tenbi Eggs” and have added value because of their commitment. What is noteworthy is the taste and appearance. The “richness” of the eggs is 1.5 times greater than that of ordinary eggs. The whites are elastic and the yolks are plump and healthy looking, with a rich orange color like the sun.

Mr. Obara recommends that first-time buyers try it with rice over egg, so that they can taste the freshness of the flavor.
Incidentally, purchasers often ask, “What is the expiration date of the eggs? When asked this question, Mr. Obara replied, “The expiration date of the eggs is about two years from the date of purchase. Oenosato Nature Farm answers, “For raw eggs, two weeks after birth,” but Mr. Obara tells us that the taste changes over time. Freshly laid eggs have a slightly hard taste. Of course, this can be called “freshness,” but after a few days, the taste becomes softer and “mellower,” he says. The reason for this is that freshly laid eggs contain a lot of carbon dioxide gas, which is released as time goes by.
Mr. Obara, who has been committed to improving the growing environment of his hens and enhancing the value of eggs since the time he opened his business, must be thinking daily about how to maximize the flavor potential of his eggs, rather than simply claiming to be fresh.
However, freshly laid eggs are still delicious, and instead of controlling the timing of their shipment, they believe that it should be up to the buyer to decide whether to enjoy the taste that mellows over time or to taste the freshly laid eggs right away. That is why Oenosato Nature Farm continues to insist on shipping eggs freshly picked every morning on the same day, even though the number of eggs produced has increased.
Because of this commitment, the company has been selling high-end eggs with confidence since the day it opened its doors.

Pancakes with a two-hour wait that made Oenosato famous.

As egg production increased, so did the number of out-of-spec eggs, of which a certain percentage were produced. In an effort to make use of these eggs, the company began selling processed products and offering sweets.

He insisted that the ingredients used in his processed foods and sweets be locally and domestically produced, and above all, he was absolutely confident in the taste of the eggs he produced.
However, being particular about ingredients does not necessarily mean that the sweets and dishes using those ingredients will taste good. What is important is whether they have experience, skills, and know-how in cooking. Oenosato Nature Farm is a poultry farm, and there was no way they could find a staff member with extensive experience in cooking, so the first person they turned to was an egg delivery staff member who loved to eat.
The staff gradually gained experience by visiting confectionery stores for training and hiring specialized instructors.
However, it was not until 14 years had passed since the poultry farm was established that they were able to complete products of a quality that they could sell with confidence and open a sales outlet in the facility.
It took a long time, but that is why we were able to succeed,” says Obara. The reason for this is that over the years, Tenbi Egg has become widely recognized, and at the same time, the number of people who share its value has increased. The sales office is attached to a poultry farm. Although it was not a place where many people came and went as in the city center, it was the fans who knew the value of Amami Eggs who were the first to visit the store when they heard the news of the start of the sweets sales. After many years of work, the products were highly acclaimed and became known throughout the prefecture by word of mouth.
The sweets made with Amami Eggs gradually became one of the representative brands of Oenosato, and today, many people learn about Amami Eggs and the ranch through these sweets.

Among them, “Oenosato Pancakes” made the name of Oenosato Nature Farm famous. The pancakes are made with firm Amami egg meringue, and are characterized by their melt-in-your-mouth texture and rich egg flavor. It has been the cafe’s signature item for many years, and even now, on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays, customers wait in line for two to three hours to get their pancakes.

It started out as a small pastry store built near a poultry farm in 2008, and gradually expanded as the number of customers grew, and a café space was added. In 2016, a large food facility was opened that also sells bread and sausages and has a restaurant. Behind the expansion of Oenosato Nature Farm from a poultry farm to a popular tourist attraction was Mr. Obara’s long-held dream of “creating a place where people can see, touch, and experience what we have been doing, so that many people will know the charm of this place.

A place where nothing is what it seems.

When he first began planning to turn Oenosato Nature Farm into a tourist attraction, he was afraid that the staff would say, “Isn’t it reckless for a single company to create a reason to visit this place with no tourist resources?” Mr. Ohara was reluctant to confide in his staff, because he was afraid they would say, “Isn’t it reckless for a single company to create a reason to visit this place with no tourist resources? However, when he set this enthusiasm as a goal and communicated it to those around him, he learned that there were a number of staff members who felt the same way. His enthusiasm spread to other staff members, and the entire company became involved.

The reason why the sweets store, café, and restaurant were not opened in the city center, where there is a large population flow, but instead in this location was because “This building would not stand out so much if it were in the middle of the city, but its value would be very different if it were here, where there is nothing but nature. We thought, “This is where we can do it. They wanted to convey to the young people of Tottori Prefecture an attraction that is not only found in urban areas.

To convey the charm of Oe

OOE VALLEY STAY” is a new attraction added to Oenosato Nature Farm. It is an accommodation facility that utilizes a closed elementary school in the area. The former elementary school, located within a few minutes’ drive from the ranch, has been transformed into a facility that combines food, experience, and lodging.

Here, visitors can enjoy the beautiful starry sky, the morning air unique to the satoyama surrounded by mountains, and the delicious local sake and regional food culture carefully selected by the Oenosato Nature Farm. The addition of the “lodging” factor to the “food” and “experiences” that have attracted so many people to the facility in the past has made it possible to convey the charm of Oe to an even greater number of people.

To poultry farming in nature

And they are also updating their poultry farming, which is their starting point, through trial and error.
Take feed, for example. We have always used corn, rice bran, seaweed, and other natural ingredients in our formulations to help build the chickens’ bodies. However, as the next phase, we believe it is necessary to change our current dependence on imports of grains, which are the main ingredient of feed.
First, with the cooperation of domestic producers, we have begun growing corn for animal feed in Hokkaido. Also, locally produced feed rice and bamboo charcoal made from bamboo, which is considered a nuisance in the mountains. These are beginning to be used for animal feed. Although costly, Mr. Obara believes that there is always value in going beyond this. Even if it is difficult to get the whole of Japan involved right away, they must first demonstrate the value themselves.

The Future of Oenosato Nature Farm

His efforts to make poultry farming a part of nature are rooted in his strong passion for Oe, where he started his ranch. Mr. Obara hopes to preserve this region for the future by recycling poultry farming and agriculture, and to convey its charms to more people than ever before.
The expansion of the farm is an opportunity to make people aware of this. The initial goal was 300,000 visitors per year, and that goal was achieved in 2018. Currently, they are aiming for 570,000 visitors per year, which is more than the population of Tottori Prefecture.
When it started, no one could have imagined such prosperity. However, Mr. Obara has achieved this much with his passion for poultry farming and his desire to make Oe more prosperous. His vitality will surely be a great force to change the future of poultry farming and the region.

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Yamanashi Prefecture is blessed with an environment and topography suitable for fruit cultivation, and a wide variety of grapes are grown from summer to fall, including Shinnemuscat and Kyoho grapes. Shimura Grape Research Institute, located in Fuefuki-shi, Yamanashi, is not only a grower, but also a father and son who are always trying to develop new grapes and connect the “soil for the future”.

Cultivation of grapes in Yamanashi, the fruit kingdom

Fruit cultivation has flourished in Yamanashi Prefecture since ancient times. The history of grape cultivation goes back as far as the Edo period (1603-1867), when grapes were cultivated as one of the “eight delicacies of Koshu,” the representative fruits of Kai Province. Blessed with well-drained land with long hours of sunshine and a climate with a large temperature difference between day and night, Koshu ranks first in Japan in terms of grape production. Research on cultivation methods and grape variety improvement is also active, and new techniques and varieties are constantly being developed.

One of the leading grape growers in Yamanashi Prefecture is Akio Shimura, representative of Shimura Grape Research Institute, who has a farm in Fuefuki-shi, Yamanashi Prefecture, located in the eastern part of the Kofu Basin. While working to improve the grape cultivation he has developed, he has also established his own sales channels while providing technical guidance to growers throughout Japan. He is also engaged in a wide range of initiatives, including his own brand strategy.

Let’s make new grapes!

The name Shimura Grape Research Institute was made famous by its founder and Akio’s father, Tomio Shimura. He is a nationally known leader in viticulture and winemaking. Tomio has developed more than 100 varieties of grapes for both fresh eating and winemaking. He has been involved in the establishment of numerous wineries throughout Japan, and has been awarded honorary doctor of agriculture degrees from several universities in recognition of his achievements in teaching cultivation techniques in Japan and abroad.

After graduating from university, Tomio joined Mann’s Wine Katsunuma Winery in Katsunuma-cho, Koshu City, Yamanashi Prefecture, where he spent 34 years refining his winemaking and viticultural skills. 1986 saw the establishment of Shimura Grape Research Institute, dedicated to the development of new grape varieties suited to Japan’s climate and climate. He introduced many varieties such as “Yuho,” “Queen Seven,” “My Heart,” and “Violet King,” and popularized their cultivation techniques. His new varieties, with their excellent taste and ease of cultivation, quickly became the talk of the town, and he continues to sell seedlings and provide cultivation guidance throughout Japan and abroad, even today under the leadership of his son, Kosei.

The “Black Shock” Spreads to the Grape Industry

My father’s main activities were variety development and consulting, with little focus on commercial cultivation. As the name implies, this farm was a laboratory.”

After taking over from his father, Kosei started the incorporation of Shimura Grape Research Institute in March 2023, and started commercial cultivation of more than 30 varieties in a vast vineyard of about 3.5 hectares. Now, in August, the peak month for sales, they are inundated with inquiries and orders, and by early September, most of the varieties are out of stock.

While many farms are starting to cultivate the Shine Muscat, the farm is focusing on various crosses in order to develop new varieties for the next generation. The new variety “Fuji no Kikki” is the result of their efforts. This is Shimura Institute’s original Black Shine Muscat, a cross between the seedless Shine Muscat, which can be eaten down to the skin, and Wink, which has a beautiful purple-black color, high sugar content, and a refreshing acidity. It has a richer, richer sweetness than the Shine Muscat and a stronger aroma like the Kyoho grape, but with a delicious skin and chunky texture. In a survey conducted by the Japan International Volunteer Center (JVC), it was selected as “the grape I would most like to grow.

Other varieties with the same parentage of the Shine Muscat grape are also gaining popularity, including “Miwahime,” named after a family member and characterized by its red skin, refreshing acidity, and sweetness, and “Yuho,” in which a single grape can grow to the size of a hen’s egg.

Innovations brought by Cheyenne Muscat

The Shine Muscat, the parent of “Fuji no Kira” and other varieties developed by Shimura Grape Research Institute, was introduced about 30 years ago. 1988, the Agricultural Research Institute of Hiroshima Prefecture created a hybrid between “Akitsu 21” and “Hakunan,” and the variety was registered in 2006. The creation of a grape variety that is not only tasty, seedless, and edible down to the skin, but also easy to cultivate, “revolutionized the grape industry,” says Kosei.

Until then, the main grape varieties in Japan were Kyoho (1621 hectares), which had the largest grapes and was excellent in terms of eating quality and sugar content, and Delaware (1627 hectares), which gained popularity as a pioneer in seedlessness through the use of gibberellin treatment. According to statistics from the Japan Federation of Horticultural Cooperative Associations in 2022, the cultivated area has expanded to 1,797 hectares, the largest in Japan.

Do what you can, carefully.

The quality of the grapes differs depending on the grower,” says Akio, who carefully observes the bunches one by one. He says that the grape cultivation process is a continuous process of trial and error, with the emphasis on grape-like aroma and flavor, and harvesting the grapes in their best condition.

The most difficult task is “picking” the grapes, which involves thinning out the grapes in bunches. If left unchecked, the grapes would become too dense and crush each other, preventing the grapes from fully enlarging and adversely affecting the shape and taste of the grapes. Because many farms are growing the grapes, it is important to cultivate them carefully using the knowledge and techniques that have been cultivated over the years,” says Kosei emphatically.

Tinkering with Soil Creates the Future

What I am always focused on is developing varieties on the farm,” says Kosei, whose development is a process of trial and error. When a new variety is developed, it is grafted, and once it has been successfully and stably cultivated, he begins full-fledged seedling production. The process takes about five years.

The goal has remained the same since my father’s time: the development of grape cultivation. Although many varieties have been developed at national research institutes, only a few of them can be grown by farmers in a stable manner in reality. There is a big difference between the environment of a national institute in a laboratory in a test tube and the environment in the field. Therefore, we want to develop grapes that can be grown practically and sustainably through trial and error by our farmers on their farms,” he said.

We would like to share newly discovered techniques and knowledge without holding on to them.” The future of grapes is clear to Kosei and his team, who have been leading the industry for many years.

Sweet grape hospitality

Shimura-Portuguese Laboratory does not sell wholesale, but only through its own direct sales store and online store. During the season, cars with license plates from other prefectures start arriving early in the morning, and long lines form every day. One of the pleasures of the visitors is the Grape Shop Cocolo, a sweets store located inside the facility. In addition to parfaits using various seasonal grape varieties, the shop also offers a wide variety of other grape items such as gelato, juice, and wine.

A popular menu item is the “Parfait with 5 Grapes” (2,600 yen), which includes an abundance of 5 varieties of grapes: Shine Muscat, Fujimutsu, Queen Seven, My Way, and Queen Muscat. The combination of rich vanilla ice cream with balsamic vinegar, crispy fiantine, maple cookie, and mascarpone enhances the sweetness and aroma of the grapes in this luxurious dish.

Shimura Grape Laboratory’s hospitality of “giving visitors the chance to taste Yamanashi grapes on the spot” is one of the reasons why Shimura Grape Laboratory has attracted so many fans.

Spreading “Soil for the Future” throughout the World

Looking around his vast farm, Kosei says, “I would like to continue to promote Yamanashi grapes to the world while continuing development centered on crossbreeding with the Cheinmuscat grape. In recent years, some of his relatives have emerged as potential successors, and he is now focusing on mentoring them for the further development of Shimura Grape Research Institute and the industry. In Japan today, there are many hurdles to registering a trademark for a new variety developed in the private sector. While dealing with such a system, he is determined to “spread the quality and technology of Yamanashi grapes throughout the world, with a view to obtaining patents overseas in the future.

Shimura Grape Research Institute embodies grape production by farmers for farmers. Shimura Grape Research Institute will continue to develop “soil for the future” for the next generation of grapes and their bearers.

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Yamadaya spreads the deliciousness of fugu across the country

Located in Usuki in Oita prefecture, Yamadaya, the well renowned “fugu (puffer fish)” restaurant, was established in 1905. The area where the restaurant first opened was called “Uotanna” and served the many fishermen who worked nearby. Specializing in udon noodles and inari sushi early in its history, it expanded to other Japanese cuisine, moving to its current location in the early Showa era. Under the third generation owner, there are now 2 locations in Tokyo and the store in Nishi Azabu has earned 3 Michelin stars 9 years in a row. 

Shimonoseki is most popular for fugu, and while it’s true that Usuki does not have a very long history associated with fugu, it was enjoyed as a special treat for celebrations. The fugu in this area has a distinct firmness and concentrated flavor due to the strong current. Most of the fugu from this area was shipped out to Tokyo and Shimonoseki, leaving little for locals to enjoy. In the 1960’s, Yamadaya began serving fugu to the locals, so they could enjoy the local delicacy. Since it already had a great reputation in other parts of the nation, people flocked to enjoy the fugu at the source.

Taste fresh fugu

At Yamadaya, fugu is served on the same day it is caught. Most restaurants allow it to settle overnight, because it is easier to slice thinly. Fresh fugu is difficult to slice, so each piece tends to be a bit thicker, bringing out the full flavor of the fugu. This ended up being an advantage, leading the third generation proprietress to comment “visitors can enjoy the freshest fugu in Usuki”. “

The building blends in well with the traditional structures in this town. There are 6 private rooms with the largest room accommodating up to 100 people. There are tables set up along the windows with a view of the garden, and guests are escorted there for dessert. “It is our mission to always extend the very best for our guests, just as our ancestors taught us.” True to her word, there is true hospitality in every aspect of their service. We recommend you reserve a seat at Yamadaya to enjoy the very best fugu if you are ever in Usuki.

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Patisserie La Girafe with a focus on chocolate

A 5-minute drive from JR Toyama Station. What emerges is a classic building with a hint of Western elegance. Located on a back road along the Jinzu River is the popular patisserie “Patisserie La Girafe,” where local customers are always waiting in line.
At first glance, it is hard to tell what kind of store it is, as there are no show windows and the interior cannot be seen from the outside. The atmosphere of the store is like a hideout, and when you enter the store, you will find a classic and high quality space that is a fusion of East and West, with soft but slightly dim lighting and an antique interior that creates a calm impression.
Owner-chef Junichiro Hongo says, “I aim to create something that can only be tasted here by taking tradition and inheritance and adding my originality to them.
The ingredients include fruit purees, chocolates, dried fruits, spices, and delicious local fruits, eggs, and herbs from all over the world. The showcase is filled with sweets that can only be found at Patisserie La Girafe.

The shop is particularly particular about chocolate. Almost all of the chocolate confections in the store are made with bean-to-bar chocolate. This is a type of chocolate in which the chocolate maker handles the entire processing process from the cacao bean to the chocolate itself. The company uses only cacao beans harvested in specific regions or farms, or combines several types of cacao beans in its original chocolates, depending on the direction of the confectionery.

Excellent chocolate, both fresh and baked

Among the fresh confections made with their special chocolate, we recommend the Pieger, which has an impressive “G” mark at the beginning of the store’s name. The “crispy, sticky” texture and rich cacao flavor spread at once, and the aroma of liqueur lingers in the nose at the end, creating a gem with a mature atmosphere. The combination of the ganache with vintage port, the sticky chocolate dough made from cacao beans, and the compote of dried figs simmered until crumbly, creates a calculated complexity of flavor. It is a specialty of the store that makes you want to linger forever.
Another must-try among the baked goods is the galette cacao. This thick baked sablet, made mainly from bean-to-bar chocolate, has a deep, lingering taste of cacao beans and a light, addictive texture. Chocolate that looks like it has been coarsely crushed is kneaded into the dough, making this a very satisfying piece with a crispy texture and a strong chocolate presence. The baked goods are also sold online, so you can keep them down as gifts for your loved ones.

In pursuit of a unique taste, Mr. Hongo insists on chocolate as an ingredient. Each confection created by Mr. Hongo is beautifully decorated with artistic forms, and is full of charm that will make you want to come back again and again. Why not come by and taste the “real chocolate” made by Toyama’s hideaway patisserie?

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

美味しい牛の秘訣は“水”「氷見牛専門店 たなか」／富山県氷見市 – NIHONMONO 湧き水は氷見牛にも嬉しい 富山県氷見市は、能登半島の東側の付け根に位置する町。海岸線から振り返れば、海と山とい

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

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Fusion of Noto and Italian Cuisine

Located on a hill overlooking the Sea of Japan and the Tateyama Mountain range, Flat is a small inn run by Australian-born Benjamin Flatt (a.k.a. Ben) and his wife Chikako Funashita, who operate it for four couples a day. Ben’s “Noto Italian” cuisine, prepared with fresh local Noto ingredients and homemade fermented foods, is highly acclaimed.
Ben began helping out at his family’s restaurant in Australia when he was 13 years old and worked his way up to head chef at an Italian restaurant in Sydney. After coming to Japan upon his marriage, he learned Noto’s local cuisine at “Sannami,” a guest house run by Chikako’s family.

He not only cooks, but also makes seasonings and preserves unique to the region. For example, his homemade “Ishiri,” made by marinating the innards of fresh squid in salt and fermenting them for three years, is a mild fish sauce that has been produced on the Noto Peninsula for centuries. At dinner in the dining room overlooking the Sea of Japan, you can enjoy a course that uses a variety of seasonal ingredients from Noto, including this homemade “ishiri”. Ben’s unique style of fusing Noto’s food culture with Italian cuisine is unique. The daily menu is based on the spirit of “local production for local consumption” of Italian cuisine, and is determined by looking at the seafood caught that day.

Accommodations with delicious meals and spectacular views

“Konka Iwashi” and “Konka Saba” served for breakfast are traditional Noto preserved foods made by marinating sardines and mackerel in rice bran, salt, and red pepper. Most commercially available products are fermented for six months to a year, but the breakfast items at “Flatto” are homemade gems that have been slowly fermented and aged for two to three years. It is most commonly eaten grilled, but it can also be used as an ingredient in sashimi and nabe (hot pot), and as a Japanese anchovy in salads and dressings,” says Ben. There are many other traditional Noto foods that can be enjoyed at Flatto. For example, “Benkouko,” made by pickling dried daikon radish in ishiri, is a pickle unique to Noto that can also be enjoyed grilled, a rare way to eat it. It is ready to eat when the daikon is charred and the aroma of the pickled radish rises from the air. Yunamba” (1,000 yen), made with home-grown yuzu, Noto’s natural salt, and chili peppers and pickled for four years, is ideal as a condiment for nabe (hot pot) and other dishes. Yunamba” and ‘homemade Ishiri’ (900 yen) are popular as souvenirs.

There are three guest rooms (10 tatami mats) in the main building and one room (8 tatami mats + 6 tatami mats) in a detached house with a hinoki bath. Rooms in the main building also have access to a separate room completed in November 2020 with a full hinoki bath, etc. The price is 20,350 yen per night for two meals (22,550 yen on Saturdays, days before national holidays, and consecutive holidays). The view of Toyama Bay and the garden, which can be enjoyed from every room window, is so beautiful that Hidetoshi Nakata says it left a lasting impression on him. When you visit Noto, we hope you will stay one night and enjoy the seasonal nature and “Noto Italian” cuisine.

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

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NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

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