Ishinomaki City in Miyagi Prefecture is relatively mild and snowfall is rare. However, on the day of my visit, it was a silver world. Inside a cattle barn, Japanese black cows were exhaling white breath as they slowly ate rice straw. The cattle were not just livestock, but also a long-standing tradition. They are not mere livestock, but have been nurtured by the skills and passion of craftsmen over many years.

The Stature of Black Wagyu Cattle Encountered in a Snowy Barn

Producer Daiki Kawamura’s cattle, which won honorary awards two years in a row at the National Beef Beef Cattle Carcass Kyoyokai in 2016 and 2017, are raised in this barn. Instead of being raised on pasture, where they roam freely in vast pastures, they are raised in a barn that provides an optimal environment under thorough management. From the creation of a stress-free space for the cows to the feed they are fed, which is the result of years of trial and error, to the thorough health management, no compromises are allowed.

The starting point of cattle breeding and commitment to bloodlines

Kawamura Farm is a fattening farm started by Mr. Kawamura’s grandfather. A fattening farmer is a farmer who buys calves and raises them. On the other hand, breeding farmers are those who raise calves by raising mother cows.

Fattening and mating farmers are often separated because they each have different expertise in raising cattle. Some farmers are both fattening and mating farmers, but especially in Miyagi Prefecture, fattening and mating are separated, Kawamura said.

Kawamura Farm started out as a cattle farmer, raising Holsteins, but gradually shifted to Wagyu black cattle. At that time, each of the neighboring farmers had a cow, and through the so-called “livestock dealer” business of buying, selling, and brokering livestock, the number of cows at Kawamura Farm was increased.

By the way, it is said that the quality of beef brands such as “Sendai Beef,” “Matsusaka Beef,” and “Kobe Beef” is largely dependent on pedigree. Mr. Kawamura says, “When I look at the great cattle that win champions at fairs, like Deep Impact in the case of horses, I think it is the pedigree of the cattle. I myself believe that 70% is determined by pedigree,” he says. He says that he sometimes purchases calves from all over the country that are born to bulls that have excellent pedigrees and provide their sperm. When asked what makes up the remaining 30%, he laughed and said, “I would like to say arms, but…” He went on to say that it is important to bring out their abilities without accidents, and to grow cows that eat, sleep, and eat repeatedly.

Ideal Meat Quality Achieved by Cattle Barn Raising

Mr. Kawamura’s cows are raised in a barn, and there is a clear reason for this.

The greatest advantage of barn-raising is that the environment can be closely controlled. Cattle are sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity, and a cold can affect meat quality. In a barn, the heat of summer and the cold of winter can be properly controlled, and a comfortable environment can be maintained at all times for the cows.

In addition, it is easier to manage feed. With pasturage, what cows eat depends on the natural environment, but with barn rearing, it is possible to systematically provide nutritionally balanced feed. As a result, ideal marbling is formed and meat quality is stabilized.

In addition, by properly designing the barn space, “too much movement and muscle build-up” can be avoided. In addition, thorough barn hygiene and observation of cows will help prevent disease and ensure healthy growth.

Inquiry into feed and an environment set up with music

Kawamura Farm has a total of four barns, and each barn has a different method of raising cows.

Each barn takes into consideration the environment and the sensitivity of the cows, which are greatly affected by it. The most important factor is feed, which is one of the most important factors in determining the taste of Wagyu beef.

After 20 years of farming, Mr. Kawamura has tried various feeds and self-formulations, and says, “After trying many things, I came to a simple solution. Instead, he says, “I experiment in one of my four barns by trying different things. Simple” means that the feed is procured by the cooperative from the manufacturer, and what used to be a “trade secret” among the farmers is now shared among them. Kawamura Farm also uses three different types of feed depending on the growth stage of the cows, and plays music to help them relax and eat more.

Honorary Award Proves Kawamura Farm’s Strength

The barn where Mr. Kawamura’s cows are raised is more than just a breeding facility. The high quality of the meat produced there is proven by the fact that, as mentioned earlier, the cows were awarded the “Honorary Prize,” the highest prize, out of approximately 500 cattle selected from all over Japan at the National Beef Cattle Carcass Promotion Association, a gathering of Wagyu beef producers from all over Japan.

The National Beef Beef Beef Carcass Competition is an opportunity for outstanding Wagyu beef producers from all over Japan to compete in the meat quality of the cattle they have raised themselves. At this competition, not only the amount of marbling, but also the tightness of the meat, color, fat quality, flavor, and other factors are evaluated in a comprehensive manner.

Mr. Kawamura’s cattle received overwhelming evaluations for the beauty of the marbling, tenderness of the meat, and sweetness of the fat. I actually had the opportunity to taste the meat, and the quality of the fat was not only sinewy, but also outstanding, with a texture that melted in the mouth and a rich flavor.

This prestigious award is not something that can be acquired overnight. It is the result of many years of trial and error, meticulous management in the barn, selection of the best feed, and careful attention to each cow.

Toward a Sustainable Future for Sendai Beef

Mr. Kawamura raises Sendai beef, which is the pride of Miyagi Prefecture, and only A5 grade beef is allowed to claim the name. Among the A5 ranks, there are three grades of marbling (fatty crossbreeding): 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12. The higher the number, the more marbled the meat, with 12 being the most marbled. Mr. Kawamura’s goal is to always produce Sendai beef that is 10 or higher. As he raised his cattle, he was no longer satisfied unless they were 10 or higher. Prices also vary according to this rank, but he has noticed a change in food preferences when customers who have tasted 12 beef say they prefer the leaner cuts. Mr. Kawamura will continue his pursuit of the “12” beef, which is light, clean, and well-seasoned.

The environment surrounding Wagyu beef production is becoming increasingly severe year by year. Soaring feed prices, the effects of climate change, lack of successors, and declining demand for meat are just a few of the challenges. Besides, the price of calves rises with the competition when pedigrees are emphasized, and it becomes “not worth it” considering the length of time required to raise them. However, in order to overcome these difficulties, Mr. Kawamura is exporting beef overseas, where domestic consumption is becoming more and more difficult.

Furthermore, he is struggling to keep Sendai beef production going by buying or renting barns from farmers who have quit due to lack of successors at Kawamura Farm.

As a young farmer leading the industry, Mr. Kawamura’s challenge continues.

The post Daiki Kawamura, the third generation of Kawamura Farm, the finest Sendai beef raised by a young farmer / Ishinomaki City, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In Japan, many Japanese black cattle (Wagyu) are raised exclusively for their meat, but in the northern part of Iwate Prefecture, the “Iwate Shorthorn Beef,” a Japanese Shorthorn breed, is widely bred. Kakinoki Chikusan, which raises and produces Iwate Shorthorn Beef in Yamagata-cho, Kuji City, is passionate about pursuing the taste and communicating its appeal.

History and Characteristics of Iwate Shorthorn Beef

In the past, the former Nanbu domain territory, including Iwate, raised native Nanbu cattle for farming, transportation, and to secure organic fertilizers. Nanbu cattle, which are strong on their feet and legs and can tolerate a poor diet, were also valued for their ability to graze in mountainous areas and the fact that they did not require much time and effort to raise. Especially in the northern part of Iwate Prefecture, where there was little flat land and summers were cool, the crop yields were unstable, so many farmers raised cattle for “marketing” in times of emergency.

Grazing from spring to fall, mating and calving in the wild

However, as time went by, the role of Nanbu beef began to decline. In an effort to improve the Nanbu beef breed into a beef breed, the Iwate Shorthorn Beef was born by crossing American Shorthorns and other breeds. The Shorthorn breed was chosen because it was large and suitable for pasturage, as was the case with the Nanbu Beef, because it needed to be large in size to increase its value as a beef cattle breed, and because the breed was to be raised on pasture, which was less labor-intensive than raising Nanbu Beef.

One of the characteristics of Shorthorn cattle is their “summer mountain and winter home” style of rearing, in which they are pastured in the mountains from spring to fall and raised in barns during the winter. The farmers who originally raised Nanbu cattle in this area also cultivated fields and wanted to concentrate on their work from spring to fall, so they grazed their cattle near their homes and fields. Even if they raised a large number of Shorthorn cattle, they still wanted to concentrate on other agricultural work, so they would graze their cattle in the mountains where there was more grass during the summer and take them down from the mountains in the winter when the grass would be dry. Of course, this rearing style is also good for the cows: calves born around March are grazed on the plateau with their mothers from spring to fall, where they can grow up on pesticide-free grass and mother’s milk. In the pastureland, the mother cow becomes pregnant through natural mating with her sire, and gives birth in the barn around March. This natural mating and natural delivery is another characteristic of Shorthorn cattle.

On the other hand, calves that move from pastureland to the barn are raised on feed and other means to “build up” their bodies in preparation for shipment. The feed varies from farmer to farmer and production area to production area. This changes the taste and other characteristics of the meat, so it is a good opportunity for the producers to show their skills.

Since Shorthorn cattle are born once a year, farmers set the shipping period as “22 to 30 months” so that they can be shipped throughout the year. Although there are differences in meat quality depending on the age of the cattle, in general, the meat is lean with low fat content and high amino acid content. This is why the meat is highly regarded by restaurant chefs and people accustomed to eating beef, who say they never get tired of eating it and can enjoy its flavor the more they chew it.

Domestic feed and pasture-raised cattle are used to create a “taste that can only be found here.

Toshiyuki Kakiki is the second generation of Kakiki Chikusan, a shorthorn cattle producer in Yamagata-cho, Kuji City in northern Iwate Prefecture. After graduating from high school, he entered Iwate Prefectural Agricultural College with the intention of taking over the family business. There, he learned for the first time about methods of raising cattle other than Shorthorn cattle and rediscovered the appeal of Shorthorn cattle, which are raised in a healthy manner through pasturage and natural mating and delivery.

Domestic feed is safe, tasty, and environmentally friendly

For more than 30 years since then, Mr. Kakiki has devoted himself to raising and producing “Shorthorn cattle only. He has also made every effort to raise his cattle in a healthier manner, for example, by setting up a space near the barn where calves can exercise freely, and grazing some of his mothers on a low mountain in late autumn.

The “heart” of Mr. Kakiki’s breeding and production methods is 100% domestically produced feed. Initially, he switched from imported feed to domestic feed in order to avoid post-harvest pesticides, which are used on imported agricultural products to prevent pests and diseases during transportation and storage. In addition, the feed is much less susceptible to exchange rate fluctuations than imported feed, and since it does not require energy for transportation, it also reduces carbon dioxide emissions. Mr. Kakiki began researching the possibility of using domestic feed. As a result, he now uses his own compound feed made from fusuma (wheat hulls), wheat, and soybeans, as well as domestically produced whole soybeans, hay, locally produced feed rice, and home-grown feed corn.

Kakinoki says, “Our meat has a long, lingering lean flavor, no odor, and clean fat. For example, the “clean fat” is created by feeding not only the kernels but also the leaves and stalks of home-grown feed corn.

Of course, “grazing” before feeding is also an important part of the meat quality, as the cattle are first fed grass to strengthen their stomachs and internal organs and create a base for lean meat. Incidentally, Kakinoki Chikusan’s main grazing land is on a plateau at an altitude of 700 m, and its grass is rich in minerals due to the northeasterly “Yamase” wind from the sea. Mr. Kakinoki’s Shorthorn Beef has a “taste that can only come from here,” thanks to the land and climate of Yamagata Town, as well as the grass and feed.

Communicating “serious efforts” from breeding to sales

Mr. Kakiki currently raises 110 head of cattle for breeding and 70 head of cattle for fattening annually. While most cattle farms are divided into breeding and fattening farms, he explains that the reason he is involved in both is “to ensure that I can get calves, as they are becoming harder to come by. In addition, they produce additive-free processed products such as hamburgers and cured hams, sell them wholesale to restaurants, and sell them directly on their e-commerce site. They are proud to be “involved in all aspects of Shorthorn Beef.

Selling only to contractors who understand our production methods

Still, there are many challenges that we face as Shorthorn cattle farmers. The biggest challenge is the low unit price of Shorthorn cattle meat. Although Shorthorn cattle account for less than 0.5% of Japan’s beef cattle, they are not well known, and the price is about half that of Wagyu beef. In addition, the fact that calving occurs only once a year makes it difficult for farmers to manage their cattle, and many farmers are switching to raising Kuroge Wagyu together or to raising Kuroge Wagyu.

In such an environment, Mr. Kakiki raises only Shorthorn cattle because he wants to convey to his clients and consumers that he is “serious about what he is doing. In fact, Kakinoki Chikusan’s sales partners outside of its e-commerce site are restaurants and major food delivery service companies that understand and sympathize with Kakinoki’s production methods and ideas, and who have signed contracts with him to provide safety-conscious foods.

Creating Fans of Kakinoki Livestock and Iwate Shorthorn Beef

Mr. Kakiki is also involved in his own “Community Support Agriculture (CSA). This is a system in which consumers continuously support producers by paying for their produce in advance and participating in farm work. Mr. Kakiki has created a membership fee-based community called “Shorthorn Beef Lover’s Club,” which ships products to member consumers, and also conducts farm tours and barbecue meetings in Tokyo to communicate the appeal of Shorthorn Beef and interact with consumers.

Mr. Kakiki believes that these activities will lead to the creation of fans not only of Kakiki Chikusan but also of Iwate Shorthorn Beef itself. Above all, by having people visit the ranch, they will be able to experience the splendor of Iwate’s terroir. Iwate has the largest land area in Honshu, and most of the inland area is hilly and mountainous, making it rich in nature and suitable for grazing. The mountains of Iwate are a comfortable place for cattle, which are sensitive to heat and resistant to cold, to be kept cool in summer, and Shorthorn cattle raised in a style that makes the most of this natural environment can be called Iwate culture. For Mr. Kakiki, on the other hand, shorthorn cattle have been a familiar animal since he was a child, and they are a special part of his family’s life. That is why the sight of the cows enjoying their time in the open pastures was and still is a treasure to him. Mr. Kakiki’s efforts to preserve his beloved Shorthorn cattle and their grazing landscapes continue.

The post Kakinoki Chikusan pursues the delicious taste of Iwate Shorthorn Beef and conveys its appeal. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Facing the Ariake Sea, Yanagawa City in Fukuoka Prefecture is known as a water town. Mr. Toyosaku Eguchi of “Hosaku Farm,” which has a farm in this scenic area, has launched the “Hosaku Wagyu” brand of black cattle named after his own name. We follow his passion for the brand, which he hopes will “enrich people’s hearts and minds” as well as his commitment as a fattening farmer who raises cattle with love.

The reason for running the ranch was because I was a rice farmer and had rice straw.

In the normal beef production and distribution process, beef calves are raised from mother cows, raised, and shipped by integrated production farms, or by fattening farms that purchase the calves and raise them until they are shipped as carcasses, which are then shipped to the market and purchased by wholesalers. The cattle are then purchased by wholesalers, who sell them to retailers, and so on, until they reach consumers.
At one time, Hosaku Farm also used to sell all of its cattle through this distribution channel. In 2021, the company launched the “”Hosaku Wagyu“” brand. The entire family has been supporting the ranch since the father’s generation, with Hosaku Eguchi in charge of production and his elder brother Koji in charge of sales.

The Eguchi family’s ranching business started with five Holsteins. The Eguchi family’s ranching business began with five Holsteins, dating back about 45 years ago.

The Eguchi family has been rice farmers for generations. At the time, the father, Masahiro, was selling rice straw from the farmland as roughage to livestock farmers. One day, he bought a calf, saying, “Since we have rice straw, let’s fatten up a cow ourselves. They started by fattening up a male Holstein, a dairy breed, as a beef cow.
Holsteins are widely recognized as a dairy breed, but surprisingly, the males are fattened as beef cattle.

At the time when Hosaku Farm was founded, male Holstein calves were available at a relatively low price compared to Wagyu cattle, so it was an easy breed to enter the cattle breeding business at that time.

Seven downfalls. The various problems that hit the livestock industry are breaking my heart. ……

After the start of fattening, the number of cattle was gradually increased, but in 1991, beef imports were liberalized. Realizing that they could not compete with foreign beef in the price war, they switched to F1 breeds (a crossbreed of dairy cattle such as Holsteins and beef cattle such as Japanese Black cattle), which were more expensive in the market. However, the livestock industry was hit by a series of problems, such as the BSE problem and a case of mislabeled beef. Masahiro was troubled by the recurring difficulties.

However, he made a decision that would bring him back to the top. With the expectation that demand for high-quality Wagyu beef would increase due to heightened awareness of food safety, he switched to fattening Wagyu black cattle more than 20 years ago. This was a turning point for him.

After graduating from university, Mr. Hosaku went on to study agriculture and returned to his hometown to succeed his father in the management of the ranch. Since Mr. Hosaku joined the ranch management, he won the Grand Champion in the Hakata Wagyu division of the “Fukuoka Prefecture Beef Cattle Producers’ Association Carcass Kyoshokai” in 2016, and in 2018, he also won the Gold Prize (Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award) in the Wagyu division of the “Fukuoka Prefecture Meat and Livestock Kyoshokai” where livestock farmers from within the prefecture compete. The news that a young producer in his twenties had won this award took the industry by surprise. Through friendly rivalry between father and son, the family has grown to raise approximately 220 head of Wagyu black cattle.

Beef fattening “Hakata Wagyu,” Fukuoka Prefecture’s brand beef

The black Wagyu beef currently being raised by “ Hosaku Farm” is “Hakata Wagyu,” a brand of beef from Fukuoka Prefecture that was created in 2005. The background to the birth of Hakata Wagyu was the plunge in the market price of black Wagyu due to the BSE problem that had gripped the entire industry. The beef cattle market was in turmoil, partly due to fears of infection risk. The livestock industry in Fukuoka Prefecture was also in danger of decline. In an effort to revive the industry, livestock farmers in Fukuoka Prefecture united to create “Hakata Wagyu” in order to provide safe and delicious black Wagyu beef to the market.

Hakata Wagyu” is defined as Wagyu beef from calves purchased from Kyushu and raised for approximately 20 months on rice straw produced in the prefecture. The meat quality grade is grade 3 or higher. The meat is soft and juicy.

More than 90% of the “Hakata Wagyu” raised by “ Hosaku Farm” is A4 to A5 grade. In addition to its fine texture and other aesthetic qualities, the reason for its high reputation is that it contains more than 55% oleic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid that is said to be directly related to its deliciousness. It also has a good reputation for its melt-in-your-mouth flavor.

Bloodlines are important, but the feed is what makes the cow perform

In terms of raising good quality beef cattle, Hosaku says, “The ability (pedigree) of the cattle is important, but the quality and content of the feed is also important to bring out the best in the cattle,” he says. Hosaku Farm grows all of its own rice straw. In addition, the feed is changed according to the stage of growth: early, mid, and late season. In the first stage, they are fed more roughage and protein to build up their stomachs and develop the base of their muscles for the middle stage. In the middle period, the calorie content of the feed itself is increased in order to grow the muscle base. In the latter period, vitamin-rich feed is fed to control the degree of tern formation. The first priority in fattening is to keep the cattle healthy.

Common feeding methods that emphasize marbling often threaten the health of the cows and cause stress. However, at “Hosaku Farm,” cattle are fed with an emphasis on their health and growth. They spend time and love over a period of about 30 months, which is known as “long-term fattening,” to raise healthy, well-framed cattle with good meat and meat quality.

Feeding in divided portions facilitates digestion

To prevent indigestion, the cows are fed as often as eight times a day. This is a time-consuming but important process to prevent acidosis (accumulation of excess lactic acid in the stomach of cows) caused by concentrate feed (feed containing high protein content such as soybean meal and corn).

In addition, the feed is mixed just before each meal to prevent bacteria from mixing in. There was a time in the past when we mixed feed in advance to prioritize efficiency. But at that time, the cows often got sick. …… So we tried mixing the feed just before feeding, and the cows’ condition improved immediately. The cows responded to the amount of time and effort we put into them. The cows taught me that,” Hosaku recalls.

Aiming for a stress-free and carefree day for the cows

Mr. Hosaku also says, “I also place great importance on talking to the cows. It is said that many animals, such as cows, have a sense of absolute pitch, and they can recognize and remember the sound of a voice saying, “It’s time to feed. This triggers a conditioned reflex that stimulates saliva secretion and aids in smooth digestion.
Another important thing is a “regular rhythm of life. Feeding, cleaning the barn, brushing, ……, and so on, are all done at regular times. I am sure that both humans and cows feel healthy living in accordance with their natural body clocks.

When Mr. Hosaku strokes the cows’ faces, they look entranced and relaxed. They are earnest, honest, and affectionate. Mr. Toyosaku’s deep affection for the cows seemed to be transmitted to them as well.

Launched the “”Hosaku Wagyu“” brand, which is sold by the cattle farmers themselves.

When Hosaku Farm ships the Hakata Wagyu beef it raises to the auction, Enrich Corporation, a company specializing in distribution and sales and headed by Hosaku’s brother Koji, who is in charge of the sales division, participates in the auction and purchases a head.

After that, the meat is butchered, processed, and sold directly to customers. This all-inclusive brand, from production to sales, is named ”Hosaku Wagyu” and will be launched in 2021.
This will enable the company to add new value not only on the axis of market evaluation, which is based on the degree of sinewiness, but also on the axis of essential demand from consumers, which will lead to the realization of Toyosaku Farm’s desire to “deliver the deliciousness of the meat itself.

In order to further strengthen the latter axis, the company aims to communicate with consumers through the ”Hosaku Wagyu“ brand, understand their needs, and correct the discrepancy between value and demand that is currently occurring in the market.
The driving force behind the creation of this system is Koji, who has many years of experience in import/export of meat and domestic distribution at a trading company. The brothers are supporting the development of today’s “ Hosaku Farm” by leveraging their respective strengths and working hand in hand to ensure that the production and sales departments work together in a flat relationship, without exploiting what motivates and motivates the producers.

By communicating directly with our customers, we are able to communicate even the background of production, which is normally not available when purchasing beef. They are convinced of the reasons for the price and taste, and are able to buy only what they can truly rely on. We want to provide safe and secure food choices,” says Koji.

We want to deliver affluence through the taste of “ Hosaku Wagyu” beef

Another attractive feature of the “ Hosaku Wagyu” distribution is that the quality of hormones is also guaranteed to be from the “Hosaku Farm”. Normally, the producer of beef (red meat) can be identified by the individual identification number assigned to the meat, but for offal, the individual identification number is not reflected. In other words, even if the place of origin can be widely identified, it is difficult to know who raised the meat, in what environment, and how it was raised. For this and other reasons, the meat has recently received high praise from restaurants. In addition to Fukuoka Prefecture, restaurants in Tokyo and other parts of the Kanto region have begun to handle the beef, and the “Hosaku Wagyu” circle has begun to expand.

The “rating,” which is based on the degree of sinewiness, is of course important as an indicator in the distribution process. However, what we want to emphasize is the deliciousness of the meat itself. We would like to deliver this deliciousness to even more customers by adding the story behind the meat, which is the story of how and under what kind of environment the meat is raised,” said Hosaku, explaining his thoughts behind the brand.

We want to create spiritual richness through the Kuroge Wagyu beef raised on our own ranch. The “Hosaku Wagyu” brand, which embodies this desire, has just begun to take off. We still have a lot of work to do,” says Toyosaku, ”such as raising awareness and expanding sales channels. Mr. Hosaku is a very flexible and strong man who is working hard to take on new challenges while keeping his focus on recycling-oriented agriculture that has continued since his father’s generation, Masahiro’s, time. Behind his back is a man full of passion to pioneer the future.

The post A loving cow farmer’s challenge to establish a brand. Hosakuri Farm first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Hoki-cho is located in western Tottori Prefecture. There is a father and son raising cows at the foot of Daisen, the highest mountain in the Chugoku region. They are Michio and Hikaru Maeda of Hoki Maeda Farm. In this place rich in nature, they are committed to a stress-free life for their cows and continue to pursue the quality that is sought after throughout the country.

Benefiting from the nature-rich “Hoki Fuji

Hoki-cho is close to Yonago City in Tottori Prefecture and the border with Shimane Prefecture, with Mt. Daisen is different from different angles, and the mountains seen from the north and south are called the “north wall” and the “south wall” because they are like a series of walls. From Hoki-cho, located on the west side of Mt. Daisen, the mountains have a gently sloping shape with the foot of the mountain descending to the left and right. Blessed with black earth from the volcanic ash of Mt. Daisen and mineral-rich subsoil water, the area is ideal for agriculture and livestock farming. Maeda Farm raises cattle with the blessings of Hoki-Fuji.

From watermelon farmer to livestock farmer

Michio’s grandfather originally raised dairy cows and watermelons in this area. Under the influence of his grandfather, Michio also started growing watermelons, following his grandfather’s example. My grandfather told me to make watermelons in a new way. My grandfather told me to grow watermelons in a new way. Usually, one seedling would yield two or three watermelons, but I changed the method so that it would only yield one. I did that and won the top prize in Japan for watermelons, so I decided to become a cattle farmer to win the top prize in Japan for cows.

The area that used to be a watermelon field is now covered with grass for the cows to eat, creating a striking contrast with Mt.

Father becomes a fattening cattle breeder, son becomes a professional mating cattle breeder
The process of beef production is divided into two stages: “breeding,” where mother cows give birth to calves and raise them for sale, and “fattening,” where beef is raised for about 30 months after birth. While some farmers divide the work between the two, Maeda Farm is run as a breeding farm, with his son Kou in charge of mating and Michio in charge of fattening. Currently, they raise approximately 190 head of cattle, most of which are bred, and only 10 are fattened. They are unable to increase the number of fattening cows because of the rising cost of feed for fattening and the declining sales price due to the decrease in the consumption of beef.

Cattle need love and careful daily care.

Whether it is breeding or fattening, the important points in raising cattle are the same.

I always observe each cow. Just like with people, if I decide on a feeding time, I feed them at that time and let them take a nap. As long as the animals are kept in a stress-free manner, they will be fine,” says Michio.

If you change the food or the person feeding the cows on a daily basis, the cows will stop eating. That is why the same person feeds the cows at the same time every day, as much as possible. Each day, the staff deals with the individuality of each cow to find out what they dislike and how to make them feel comfortable. Calves that are afraid of people can affect their development, so it is important to get to know them well.

The cows spend their days in a lush green pasture with a magnificent view of Hoki-Fuji, drinking delicious water, and receiving milk from people they love. They are always thinking about how much stress they can eliminate from the cows’ daily lives.

For this reason, the two of them never take a day off. They do what they do because they love it,” laughs Kou. The calves are shipped less than 10 months after birth, so I have to think about how much I can put into them. How can I make them smile? That is my goal all the time.

The “Kyoshinkai,” the Olympics for Livestock Farmers

The two men, who are devoted to their cows, have one goal in mind. They have two goals: to be recognized in the prefectural cattle competition and to win first place in the National Wagyu Beef Proficiency Show, also known as the “Wagyu Olympics.

The competition is held once every five years for livestock farmers, and cattle are judged in a total of eight divisions, including one for their appearance and another for the balance of components and fat in their meat. In the “overall evaluation” category, multiple cattle are judged on both appearance and meat. In the appearance judging, cattle are evaluated on whether they have a beautiful coat and whether they can walk as they are trained to do. On the other hand, the meat judging is based on carcass volume, meat quality, fat quality, and other factors.

In the overall evaluation category, farmers in Tottori Prefecture are challenged not as individuals, but as a group, and the reason why they are so particular about this is their desire to promote Tottori Wagyu beef.

Aiming for “Hakuho 85-3,” the pride of Tottori

At the 2017 Miyagi competition, the “Hakuho 85-3” steer entered by Tottori Prefecture won first place in the nation in the overall evaluation category, beef cattle group. After that, his name became widely known, and the number of livestock farmers seeking Hakuho 85-3 increased. For livestock farmers, pedigree is the yardstick for sales. For livestock farmers, the pedigree is the yardstick for sales, as it determines the degree of sashi, the amount of meat, and the quality of the meat. The bloodline of the Shiraho 85-3 breed is considered to produce good meat, and calves can now be sold at a higher price than ordinary breeds.

The calves sell at a higher price at later auctions. Although the calves are not sold at the show and are only evaluated at the end of the show, the impact afterwards is significant.

Mr. and Mrs. Maeda participated in the 2022 Kagoshima event as Tottori Prefecture, and came in 10th place in the overall evaluation category (section 6) and 6th place in the fat quality evaluation category (section 7).

They said, “We put out cows that exceeded our own goals, and because it was a team competition, all the participants really wanted to win. We received good evaluations as a result. We will definitely win the next Hokkaido competition with everyone’s cooperation so that Tottori Wagyu will be evaluated and sought after nationwide, just like Hakuho 85-3,” said Michio enthusiastically.

Delicious meat and beautiful cows. Two crowns for father and son.

Kou, who participated in the 2022 Kagoshima event for the first time, plans to try not only meat next time, but also to compete in the female cow division, where her appearance will be judged. He said, “I was told that I should try out for the cow division, so I decided to do both. I want to win first place again for Tottori Prefecture, like I did with Hakuho 85-3. I think it would be interesting if this time we could accomplish that as father and son,” he says, showing his determination.

In order to be recognized for his appearance, he has to take care of his son every day. She has to wake up early in the morning, brush her fur with hot water, and train herself to stand in the same position for up to an hour. They have to work even harder than usual. It is no mean feat to train a cow while taking care of other cows, but he tells me that he is determined to make both delicious meat and beautiful cows.

To be an enlivening presence in Tottori Prefecture

In the pursuit of cattle that are recognized at auctions, the ultimate goal is still “delicious meat. However, in recent years, the livestock industry has been facing a difficult situation due to rising prices, and it is not easy to achieve both good taste and business management.

As an individual, I need to make Tottori Prefecture more exciting. The market will never go up unless everyone makes connections with people outside the prefecture and increases the number of people who come to buy. To that end, I plan to go out and increase my own connections,” says Kou. In addition to the cooperative associations and business partners, he also goes to Japanese-style pubs after work to meet people from a variety of industries.

He also asks customers who have purchased beef at the auction what they thought of the previous meat, and is always looking for ways to improve. Everyone recognizes that “Maeda Farm’s cattle are sure to be the best,” and they are sought after all over the country. In this way, the value of the meat will increase. He envisions such a future.

Currently, Mr. Kou is focusing on developing human resources. Once the human resources are nurtured, he will be able to devote more time to sales. Eventually, he intends to explore the possibilities for livestock farmers, doing everything from mating to sales in-house.

The post Tottori is proud of its delicious meat and beautiful cattle. Hoki Maeda Ranch, where father and son aim for a double crown. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Japan has three major brands of Wagyu beef: Omi beef, Kobe beef, and Matsusaka beef. Of these, Omi beef is the oldest Japanese beef brand, dating back more than 400 years. We visited Fujii Ranch, one of the few farmers producing Omi beef that engages in integrated management of breeding and fattening, and asked them about their passion for producing healthy and delicious beef.

Omi Beef” was born in an era of meat bans.

The history of Omi beef goes back 400 years. During the Edo period (1603-1868), when meat was still banned in Japan, the Hikone clan was the only clan officially allowed to slaughter cattle, as it was customary for the clan to offer cow hides to the shogunate every year for use in the camp drum. Although slaughtering cows was done for self-sufficiency of cow hides, once the hides were removed, the meat remained. Omi beef is said to have originated when the clan began selling beef marinated in miso as a nourishing medicine, without violating the prohibition on meat.

Omi beef is characterized by its fine and tender texture and its beautiful “sashi” (a grain-like grain). Sashi is a mesh of fat in the lean part of the meat. Omi beef has a good mixture of meat and fat, and the sweet fat is said to melt in the mouth.

Ohnaka District, a major production area of Omi beef

Omihachiman City is located in the eastern part of Shiga Prefecture. The Ohnaka area, located in a corner of the city, is a major production center of Omi beef, with one-third of the prefecture’s beef cattle concentrated in an area of about 10 square kilometers.

The area was initially the largest among the areas around Lake Biwa that were reclaimed as a means of solving the postwar food shortage, and agriculture centering on rice cultivation was prosperous. There are about 40 livestock farms in the district, some of which raise only Omi beef, while others raise large crossbreds that are a cross between Holsteins and other dairy cattle and Wagyu cattle for food.

The definition of Omi beef is “Japanese black cattle bred for the longest time in Shiga Prefecture. Compared to other beef brands, which have strict standards for meat quality grade and number of days of fattening, this definition may seem a bit broad, but this is one of the characteristics of Omi beef that makes the differences among producers stand out.

One of the Few Producers Engaging in Integrated Management

Mr. Norio Fujii, who runs the Fujii Farm, is engaged in integrated management of Omi beef breeding and fattening in the Ohnaka area. His father’s generation settled in the area and converted to livestock farming together with neighboring farmers when the policy of reducing rice acreage was introduced. Mr. Fujii has loved cattle since childhood, and after studying agriculture at a junior college, he chose to become a farmer without hesitation.

In general, beef cattle production is separated into “breeding management,” which aims to produce calves, and “fattening management,” in which the calves are raised to adulthood and shipped.

The work involved in breeding and fattening is completely different, and it is very difficult for a single farmer to do both. The reality is that many people who start out quit soon after starting because if they fail, their productivity immediately drops and they cannot make ends meet as a farmer,” says Fujii. For example, in terms of breeding, the key to management is how to reduce the number of days of empty births by inseminating the animals without missing the timing of estrus, which differs from one individual to another. On the other hand, in fattening, the key is to feed the cows as much food as possible and keep them healthy and stress-free.

If we want to continue to do this, we have no choice but to try integrated management.

Fujii says that it is very difficult to combine breeding and fattening, each of which requires completely different knowledge and experience, but it is worth the effort.

The number of farmers running breeding operations is gradually decreasing due to the aging of managers and lack of successors, and the price of calves is on the rise. But that does not mean that the selling price of meat will continue to rise. We were originally a farmer specializing in fattening cattle, but if we continue to only fatten cattle, we will be caught between buying expensive calves and selling them at a low price. We decided that if we wanted to continue raising Wagyu cattle, we had no choice but to do it all ourselves.

Does feed determine how tasty a cow is?

It is said that the quality of beef depends largely on the pedigree of the cattle. However, according to Fujii, the quality of the fat is greatly influenced by the type of feed fed to the cattle.

If you feed too much high-calorie feed, the fat will become tough and the meat will cause indigestion. Also, if you feed too much formula feed to calves because you want them to grow quickly, they will get too fatty and easily get sick, and eventually they will not continue to eat a lot of feed until the end of their lives. It is important to first create a stomach that will allow the cows to continue eating plenty of food, by considering the balance between roughage (mainly grass) and compound feed mixed with corn and other feeds.

Aiming for sustainable livestock farming through “recycling-oriented farming

According to the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries of Japan, the self-sufficiency rate for animal feed in Japan is low, at about 25% in 2021. In particular, only 13% of feedstuffs, such as corn and other concentrated feeds, are produced domestically. Even for cattle raised in Japan, the majority of feed is from foreign countries.

I want to raise Omi beef on home-grown feed from birth to shipment . By growing his own straw and grass, which are necessary for raising Omi beef, he is able to prevent diseases caused by imported feed that does not suit his constitution and to ensure stable production of calves. The cattle grow fodder in the rice paddies, eat the grass that is produced, and return the cattle manure to the rice paddies to make more fodder. The use of cattle manure helps reduce the use of chemical fertilizers, and the self-sufficiency of feed helps reduce production costs. This recycling of resources is the key to a sustainable rearing method.

Pursuing deliciousness without being restricted by ratings

The highest grade of beef is considered to be “A5 rank 12. The conditions for the highest grade are a high degree of tannin and good marbling, and only one out of every 30,000 head of beef can be rated as A5. But is this rare meat really “good for everyone”?

People say, “It is a matter of course that the beef is A4 rank or higher, but anything lower than that is called Omi beef. However, for us, A2 or A3 beef is Omi beef. They are all raised in the same land with the same care and attention. The most important thing is that they are healthy and stress-free, and that they continue to eat well until the end of their lives. We are not only concerned with the amount of sinew, but are also conscious of creating a good balance of lean and fat so that the aroma when the meat is cooked is appetizing. We want to raise cattle that will be delicious to all kinds of people.

Fujii Farm has about 100 head of cattle. It is not a large ranch, but the cows are eating freely in a spacious barn with plenty of sunlight and good ventilation. In the ever-changing livestock industry, we could see a ray of hope for those involved in the meat industry in Mr. Fujii’s efforts to create new possibilities with a heart for the gift of life.

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Iki Beef” is also known as a rare and rare beef because of its taste and rarity. Born in the blessed natural environment of Iki Island, a small island in the Sea of Genkai, and raised on grass rich in minerals from the sea, the beef is tender, rich, and crisp. The tour will unravel the history of Wagyu beef in Iki, which has a history dating back to the Yayoi period, and visit Umeshima Farm, a fattening farm that raises high-quality Iki beef.

What is Iki Island, which raises fantastic and famous beef?

Iki Island is a small island in the Genkai Sea in Kyushu, 17 km from north to south and 14 km from east to west. The island’s mild climate and rich natural environment have allowed an agricultural culture to flourish since ancient times, and its proximity to the Chinese mainland and the Korean peninsula has made it a prosperous center for cultural exchange. The island has been closely associated with the gods since ancient times, as evidenced by its appearance in Japan’s oldest historical book, Kojiki, as “Amenohitotsubashira,” which serves as a transportation route between heaven and earth.

The roots of Wagyu come from Nagasaki! 　History of Iki Island and Wagyu

The history of cattle breeding on Iki Island is long. Iki, which was a base for continental exchange, gathered various cultures via the Korean Peninsula, and it is thought that the ancestors of Iki beef also came to the island at that time. The bones of domestic cattle have been excavated from the “Hara no Tsuji Ruins,” which tells the history of Iki in the Yayoi period, and furthermore, in the illustrated “Surugi Eshi” of the Kamakura period about domestic cattle, they appear as “Surugi” pulling an ox cart. In the “Ten Illustrations of National Cattle,” also from the Kamakura period, it is praised as “nothing is superior to Tsukushi cattle (Iki cattle),” and there is a description that it was used as food by the Yuan army during the time of the Yuan invasion.

From Service Cattle to Food Cattle

Iki’s Wagyu cattle were mainly used as service cattle for transportation, taking advantage of their well-proportioned physique. The reason why the breed has been handed down from the Yayoi period to the present through the mechanization of agriculture is because of the quality of its meat. Iki is an island where rice cultivation has long flourished. The island is small enough to drive around in less than two hours, and has the second largest “Fukae Tabaru Plain” in Nagasaki Prefecture, where rice cultivation has thrived since ancient times, taking advantage of the fertile soil, mild climate, and abundant water. It is said that “Iki cattle” began when they were used as oxen to pull ox carts for agricultural work, etc. The bones of domestic cattle have been excavated from ruins from the Yayoi period on the island, suggesting that cattle meat was already being consumed at that time. It is said that the reason why cattle continued to remain on Iki Island even after agricultural machinery evolved and cattle power was no longer needed was because the meat quality of cattle, which lived on grass containing many minerals unique to an island surrounded by the sea, was excellent as food cattle.

What is Iki beef?

Currently, about 13,000 head of cattle are raised in Iki, including bred cattle of all types, but only 900 head of Iki beef can be shipped out each year. The reason for the small number of cattle shipped is that there are strict regulations for raising Iki beef. There are four regulations. It must be black Japanese beef born and raised on Iki Island. It must be raised by a member of the Iki City Agricultural Cooperative Association’s fattening section. The cattle must be fed our original formula feed “Ichishikoku”. The meat quality grade must be 3rd grade or higher. If these conditions are not met, the beef is not recognized as Iki beef. The fat of Iki beef has a low melting point and is rich and sharp, while the lean meat is rich in flavor and tender. Its deliciousness and rarity increase the value of Iki beef.

In fact, it is a hidden production area of calves for fattening famous brand beef.

The quality of calves born in Iki is highly evaluated by fattening farmers throughout Japan, and it is not unusual for fattening farmers of famous brand cattle such as Tajima beef and Matsuzaka beef, for example, to come to Iki to purchase calves. In other words, there are not a few cases where calves born in Iki are raised outside the island and shipped as local brand beef. Not only calves, but also bulls born on Iki are highly evaluated nationwide. In the Wagyu world, in fact, elite cattle born in Iki are active.

Until “Iki beef” is shipped

What kind of process does the rare Iki beef go through before being shipped? The rough flow is as follows. First, the Iki beef calves born by artificial insemination are kept and managed as “fattening cows” at the breeding farmer. The calves are raised for 8 to 10 months at the farmer’s farm, and then go to the livestock market. Here, the calves are taken over by the fattening farmers and carefully cared for for about 20 months. Iki beef calves are raised to be well-fed and then shipped to the meat market, where they spend their time in peace and quiet without ever leaving the island.

To Umeshima Chikusan, a fattening farmer in Iki Island

It was late April when I visited a seaside cattle barn near Kintohira Shrine on the east side of Iki Island. In the clean barn of “Umeshima Livestock Breeding,” which smelled of rice straw, the wind from the sea was blowing comfortably, and the beautiful black Iki cows were spending their time peacefully.

Umeshima Chikusan, which handles everything from fattening to restaurant management and meat sales, is run by second-generation brothers Hideaki and Kazuyuki Umeshima. About 20 years ago, they started producing “Iki Beef” as a brand name beef. My father, who was originally a breeding farmer, switched to being a fattening farmer around that time, and that is where we are today,” says Kazuyuki, the younger brother in charge of the fattening operation. Currently, 150-200 head of cattle live in the sanitary barn.

Healthy fattening environment

Kazuyuki gently watches over the cows as they leisurely eat their feed in the well-maintained barn. The rich environment of the island is nurturing the cows born and raised on Iki in good health. What the cattle are eating now is a feed called “Ichishikoku,” a special formula feed for Iki cattle that was produced at the JA Kitakyushu Kumiai Feed Fukuoka Plant about 15 years ago by members of the Iki City Agricultural Cooperative Association’s Fattening Division, who were aiming for better meat quality.

In addition to preparing the breeding environment, Kazuyuki also pays close attention to the physical condition of the cattle. He says that the second to third months after the cows are brought into the barn as calves is a particularly important period. During this period, it is essential to build up the stomachs of the calves so that they are able to eat grass-based meals, which will promote their subsequent fattening. If calves have strong stomachs when they are calves, they will be able to take in compound feed when they are in the prime of their lives and grow up to be large and healthy. Even with all the love and care that goes into raising cattle in this way, there are still some cows that die from disease. They need to be especially careful about sudden onset of illnesses.

As a fattening farmer, the most important thing is to observe the cows carefully. Cows cannot talk, but they tell us many things with their attitude. They may be sitting in an unusual place, or their heads may be slightly down… We must not miss such small signs.

The work of a fattening farmer is 365 days a year, with not a single day off. Physical strength, experience, and knowledge are essential, as well as love and passion. I love cows. It is that love that keeps me going,” smiles Kazuyuki. The Iki beef from Umeshima Livestock Breeding, for which he spends a great deal of time, effort, and love, has won many awards, including the Gold Prize at the 40th Kyushu Beef Beef Carcass Show, the Grand Prize at the 2010 Opening Memorial Meat Fair (beef carcass), and the Gold Prize at the 7th Iki City Wagyu Beef Breeding Show (beef cattle category).

To “Ajidokoro Umeshima,” a restaurant directly managed by Umeshima Chikusan

A 10-minute drive from the cattle barn. Ajijidokoro Umeshima” is directly managed by “Umeshima Livestock Breeding,” located right in front of Ashibe Port. The restaurant is popular among locals and tourists alike for its reasonably-priced dishes such as filet steak, special roast, and grilled beef, all of which are made from high-quality Iki beef, which is tender and bright red with cream-colored tannins. The restaurant also has a direct sales shop, from which Iki beef can be shipped nationwide.

The restaurant is run by Hideaki Umeshima, the older of the Umeshima brothers. Hideaki, who aspires to be a chef, founded the restaurant to fulfill his father’s wish to “provide our customers with beef that we have raised with great care with our own hands. About 30 years ago, my father, who had just started out as a fattening farmer, participated in a cattle show for the first time and the results were not good. However, my father used the results as a springboard to say, ‘From now on, I’m going to raise high-quality cattle in Iki! He was inspired. Now, every time I hear a customer say how delicious our beef is, I remember how hopeful and strong my father was at that time,” he says. Thanks to my father and his predecessors, Iki beef is here, the culture of Iki, and our lives. I have nothing but gratitude. I am confident and proud that my younger brother is currently raising better Iki beef.

The Future of Umeshima Farm

People and cattle have lived together on Iki Island since ancient times. The high-quality compost produced from Iki cattle is used for rice cultivation, and the straw from this is used to feed the cattle, once again raising healthy Iki cattle. In this way, cyclical agriculture has been practiced on the island since ancient times. Today, asparagus, one of the island’s main crops, is grown using compost from Iki cattle, and is highly regarded throughout the country. In other words, sustainable agriculture has been practiced on Iki Island for a long time, and is now evolving even further. My wish is that Iki beef will continue to be appreciated as delicious 100 years from now, and even after that. I would be happy if young people from inside and outside of the island who have hope will want to raise cattle on Iki, an island of primary industry,” says Hideaki. From his words, we could sense his generous personality and deep love for the island, born from its history as a center of cultural exchange and its blessed natural environment.

The post Umeshima Livestock Breeding,” which carefully carries on the tradition of “Iki beef,” a famous beef born and raised in Iki/Iki City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Adatara-yama’s Great Nature Nurtures High-Quality Fukushima Beef

In recent years, Fukushima beef has gained a reputation for its high quality. In Otama Village at the foot of Mt. Adatara, there is a man known as the driving force behind this trend. Otama Village, at the foot of Mt. Hironao Suzuki, who has won numerous awards at cattle fairs and is known as one of the leading producers in the prefecture, says, “Water, air, and high-quality rice straw are the conditions for raising delicious cows.

Mt. Adatara, which was described as “the real sky” in Kotaro Takamura’s “Chieko Sho” (Chieko’s Book of Poems). The gently sloping ridgeline landed at the end of the mountain, where a countryside spread out. Hironao Suzuki and his wife run a livestock business in a corner of the rice paddies. Hidetoshi Nakata was invited into the guest room of Mr. Suzuki’s house, looked at the bundles of ears of rice on the wall, and asked, “What is so special about these rice straws? Does this straw have any special meaning?” It is 50 years’ worth of rice ears that Mr. Suzuki has harvested since he started farming at the age of 20. It was about the same time I started raising cattle, so it’s been half a century.”

There are two types of beef cattle farmers: breeding farmers, who raise calves until they are about 9 to 10 months old, and fattening farmers, who raise them for about 20 months. Mr. Suzuki is a fattening farmer of the latter type and is known as a representative producer in Fukushima Prefecture. 2017, he won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries Award at the Beef Cattle Carcass Kyoreikai organized by the National Beef Cattle Promotion Fund Association. In the same year, he also won the highest honorary award at the 19th Zenno-Nohshi Eda Nikkyo Reikai, as well as numerous other awards.
The aroma is good, and the fat is not too greasy, which is a characteristic of Fukushima beef,” said Mr. Suzuki, who is modest about his own achievements.
Although Mr. Suzuki is modest about his own achievements, he is proud to say that the quality of the beef he has raised with great care is something he can boast of to the world.

Taking on the Challenge of Spreading Wagyu Beef Overseas

It is often said that bloodlines determine the breed of cattle,” Mr. Suzuki replied immediately to Mr. Nakata’s question, “but how do you bring about the unique characteristics common to the Fukushima region?
Originally, each farmer devised his own feed, but because of this, there was a large variation in meat quality. Then, after listening to everyone’s opinions, we standardized the feed. As a result, we were able to improve the quality of the entire region.”
He continues, “Rice straw is one of the most important ingredients in the feed. If you compare it to a human meal, rice straw is the rice, and formula feed is the side dish. No matter how sumptuous the side dish is, it is important to eat a good staple food. The hardness of rice straw varies depending on the variety, but I believe that Koshihikari is the most suitable for cattle ruminating.

While the reputation of Fukushima beef has been growing in recent years, the price of moto-ushi, which could be purchased for 500,000 yen before the earthquake, has skyrocketed to nearly double that. Mr. Suzuki’s sense of crisis was heightened by the fact that farmers are closing their businesses one after another due to the aging of the population. However, when asked how he is responding to the trend toward trade liberalization, with the Trans-Pacific Partnership Agreement (TPP) coming into effect at the end of last year and the Japan-Europe EPA (Economic Partnership Agreement) in February, he looks forward, saying that as a producer he has no choice but to continue producing good cattle.
He replied, “If cheap beef from other countries enters the market, the competition will become even tougher. But I am sure that there will be consumers who will choose good quality and delicious meat.
Nodding his head in agreement, Mr. Nakata encourages producers to see trade liberalization not only as a challenge but also as an opportunity.
When I go abroad, I am asked about Wagyu beef by many people. That’s how interested they are in Japanese beef. This is an opportunity to expand our sales channels overseas, and I think we should go out there more and more.
I don’t think I will be able to retire anytime soon. Mr. Suzuki’s smile is radiant.

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Aomori Brand Beef, “Aomori Kuraishi Beef”

Kuraishi Beef originated in Gonohemachi Kuraishi, Aomori Prefecture. The combination of melting, oozing fat and the taste of firm lean meat nurtured in abundant nature gives this beef an exquisite flavor. We visited Kunio Numasawa, one of the producers of this cattle.
The first thing that we noticed when he took us to the barn was that it is ”open”. It is not that the barn itself is big. It feels open and comfortable because there is only one cattle in a cage. ”We don’t want the cattles to be stressed. That’s why we only keep one cattle in each cage.” Numasawa told us.

Growing in comfort

“If there are two or three to a cage, it gets really cramped. And a power struggle comes into play. We prefer to keep only one to a cage, and have them eat a lot of feed without any stress. The meat becomes finer and firmer that way.” (Numasawa)
Along with the quality of the red meat, the secret to the great flavor of Kuraishi Beef is the fat. ”Buyers prefer the fat to be evenly distributed throughout the meat rather than concentrated in just certain parts.” he commented. ”What determines how the fat is dispersed?” Nakata asked. Numasawa answered, ”The first thing is the pedigree.”
”I don’t breed them. I purchase calves from the market and raise them. At that point, the pedigree is the most important factor. After that, I look at the individual calf and imagine whether it will become good cattle or not. That is the most difficult part.” (Numasawa)

Eating the best meat

Aomori Prefecture has a cold climate. How does the cold affect cattle? “”Cattle can withstand the cold. Frozen drinking water is the bigger problem.”” says Numasawa. They dissolve the frozen drinking water by pouring hot water over it. This is hard work and time consuming, he says.
At the tasting, stunning marbled Kuraishi beef is laid out on the table. The meat is put on the grill and cooked over charcoal. Of course it’s delicious. We savored the melting Kuraishi beef. We highly recommend you have a taste of this award-winning “”Aomori Kuraishi Beef””, a symbol of Aomori.

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The History of Akita Kazuno Beef

There are 2 famous beef brands in Akita. One is the ”Kuroge Wagyu” ”Akita Nishiki Wagyu” and the other is the Japanese Shorthorn ”Kazuno Beef”.
”Kazuno Beef” is a crossbreed of Nanbu cattle and Shorthorn cattle. Osarizawa mine, a mine with a long history is situated in Kazuno-City. The Nanbu cattle, the Kazuno cattle’s predecessor, were used for labor at the mine. They have strong legs and can move about on rocky land, where horses could not, and were highly valued in Akita.
As a result, they were not originally for consumption. However, this changed in the Meiji period. It was crossbred with the Shorthorn and selectively bred. It was officially approved as ”Japan Shorthorn” in 1957, and recognized as a native Japanese brand.

Delicious Red Meat

We visited the pasture managed by Akitaken Chikusan Agricultural Cooperative. Cattle from local farmers are kept here from May to October, allowed to graze freely.
Ryoichi Kimura of the Kazuno branch took us to the pastures where cattle came trotting toward us. ”They are friendly cows. ” Kimura laughs. ”Normally when Kuroge Wagyu is kept out in the pasture to graze, they become lean.” The main feature of Kuroge Wagyu and similar varieties is their marbled fat. In contrast, Kazuno Beef has a firm red meat. Compared to Kuroge Wagyu, it has less fat and more protein. Yet it is firm with more beefy flavor as you chew. That is what makes it so popular. The flavor was evident when we sampled the meat. You enjoy the ”meat” not the fat.
”It has more vitamins and minerals compared to other beef. As proof, Kazuno Beef turns black as soon as it comes in contact with air. Actually, this is also a setback as consumers believe that it has gone bad.”

Rare Brand in Japan

Japanese Shorthorns are bred in Iwate, Aomori and Hokkaido besides Akita. However, it is said to make up only 0.1% of the domestic beef market. There are economic reasons for this as well, with ”Kuroge Wagyu at a higher market price, cattle farmers inevitably tend to prefer Kuroge Wagyu.
Yet Kimura says, ”We have to protect the breed as long as we have consumers that want our beef.”
”We can only sell 50 cattle a year. That number is not enough to penetrate the market. Unless we produce more we will not live up to our name.” Most of the cattle farms that breed Kazuno cattle have diversified farming. Kimura is concerned that at this rate, Shorthorns will vanish from the market. Kazuno Beef is perfect for people who love to enjoy the authentic beefy texture. Kimura continues his efforts in support of the local farmers to satisfy these consumers.

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Representing Japan, Yonezawa beef

”You not only produce beef, but also rice and ”sake”?!”
It’s not surprising that Nakata was flabbergasted. Father and son, Juichi and Hideyuki Juichi are famous as masters of cattle raising, but not only do they raise cattle, they also grow rice and vegetables, and also grow the “sake” rice “Miyama-Nishiki”, which they consigns to a local brewer to produce ”sake”.
Yonezawa beef is one of the leading brand beef in Japan that’s known to virtually anybody. Originally, there was no custom in Yonezawa to eat beef very often. A certain Dallas, who was invited to Yonezawa as an English teacher during the early Meiji era, wished to eat beef and had a farmer sell his cattle. That was the beginning of beef in Yonezawa. The story goes that Dallas was so impressed by the beef that when he returned to Yokohama from Yonezawa, he brought back a large amount of beef with him.
The Suzukis raise the finest of that Yonezawa brand beef.

Best beef in Japan

The outstanding character of Yonezawa beef is the smooth texture of the marbled fat. The sweetness of fat melts into your mouth. The deliciousness is instantly recognizable. But even among the delicious Yonezawa beef, Suzuki’s beef is rated as the best in Japan. Father Juichi won the Grand Prize at the national contest held at the Tokyo meat market. The son, Hideyuki also for raising award winning cattle in the local Yonezawa beef contest. Both produce what could be considered as top Japanese beef. The contest is held with the body of the cattle cut in half with all the internal organs removed. The meat is ranked at this point, such as A5 rank The cattle that the Suzukis raise are heifers (young female cow that have not produced offspring). Raised in Yonezawa where there are four seasons, the heifers have an appropriate amount of fat, resulting in good taste and flavor. “The texture is also good.” Suzuki added. It means that it is the most delicious beef, even among great tasting Yonezawa beef. However, to raise only female cattle has its own problems and it takes a lot of work, too. Still, Suzuki manages to raise and ship nearly 100 cattle. He also fattens some calves that were produced in Yonezawa. These are all going to be genuine Yonezawa beef of the finest grade.

Tasting great Yonezawa beef

When we left the barn, we were invited to the Suzuki household. We found some “sake” on the table. We were told that we’d be able to try the beef, but before that, we were served the “sake”.
“The meat that we are broiling now is not matured very much.”said Juichi-san.
“Do you mature beef too?”
“It tastes better if it’s hung with the bone for about a month.”
He explained that by maturing, amino acids are generated improving the taste.
Meat that is cut off the bone, sold in places like supermarkets have to set an expiration date. But left on the bone, it’s possible to allow them to mature. The maturing period depends upon the shop or the restaurant. As we listen to this, the meat is done and appears on the table. Words were not needed. It was delicious!
And of course, we had more “sake”, and then there were white rice balls, then more meat and more “sake” and before we knew it all the “sake”, rice, and meat were gone.

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