Okinawa has long been influenced by American culture, and coffee has been a beloved staple there for generations. Discovering the story behind Okinawa’s “coffee beans” is another way to experience a new side of the island. Yoshiyuki Nakamura, owner and roaster at “Mame Pole Pole,” shared with us the appeal of Okinawan coffee as it emerges into the spotlight.

To Koza, and Then to the Highlands

“Coffee isn’t just bitter; it can have chocolatey or fruity notes—it’s a diverse and fascinating world,” says Nakamura. Since opening his shop in Okinawa City, located in central Okinawa Prefecture, in 2010, he relocated once to accommodate a new roasting machine, and in 2024, due to the aging of the original building, he established a new shop in the Takahara district of the same city.

The old shop in Koza was built on the site of the New York Restaurant, which opened in the 1950s and was the first in Okinawa to serve Western-style cuisine. The design made use of that charm, allowing visitors to feel the history. The original sign and blue rust were deliberately left as they were, the roaster sat majestically at the back of the shop, and the aroma that lingered inside made you want to breathe deeply.Mr. Nakamura himself was particularly fond of the space, where the balance between old and new felt just right, allowing visitors to experience the atmosphere of that era—a blend of Okinawan and American cultures. Naturally, that same aesthetic has been carried over to the new shop in Takahara.

Roasting Skills Recognized Worldwide Through Dedication

Mr. Nakamura was deeply impressed by Vietnamese coffee he encountered during his college graduation trip and gained experience as a barista after returning home. Being the type of person who, once he starts something, is determined to master it, he taught himself through repeated trial and error.Seeking roasting techniques unavailable in Okinawa, he traveled all over Japan. It was during this period of training that he began competing in the “Japan Coffee Roasting Championship” (JCRC). He won the JCRC in 2017, and subsequently represented Japan at the WCRC (World Coffee Roasting Championship) held in Italy in 2019, where he took second place in the world on his very first attempt.

As a roaster, Nakamura focuses on creating a clean finish and a sweet aftertaste. “Whether it’s a light roast or a dark roast, I take care to ensure the finish ends on a sweet note,” he says. People now travel from all over Japan to seek out Nakamura’s beans.

Bringing Out the Bean’s Character: A Dialogue with Coffee

Coffee is a luxury item. Everyone has their own preferred taste, and how the flavor is perceived changes depending on the environment and time of day. As a roaster, Nakamura pursues quality while engaging in a dialogue with the beans in this world without a single “correct” answer, drawing out their potential and individuality.

Even beans from the same variety at the same farm can transform into something entirely different depending on the post-harvest processing methods. For example, sun-drying the beans while still attached to the fruit imparts a rich, berry-like sweetness and body, whereas washing them to remove the pulp brings out a clean, crisp acidity.

Furthermore, the fermentation process—which has garnered attention in recent years—also plays a key role in shaping the flavor. By blocking oxygen and activating microorganisms, complex aromas reminiscent of wine and spices—unseen in traditional coffee—are brought to the fore. Mr. Nakamura says that the appeal of coffee lies in controlling these countless variables to weave the story of each cup.

“Coffee beans, just like us humans, aren’t all the same. Their individuality changes depending on the environment in which they were grown,” says Nakamura.

The roasting time also varies depending on the bean. He explains that he assesses the bean’s condition—such as its size and hardness—to discern its character, visualizes how to finish it, and then determines the roasting method. Depending on the bean’s individuality, not only does the roast level (dark or light) change, but even the recommended way to drink it varies. For instance, if the body is strong, it works well in a cappuccino where it holds its own against the milk.

Farmers take great care during the “processing” stage, which involves extracting the seeds (the part that becomes the coffee bean) from harvested coffee cherries (the fruit) and drying them. Furthermore, the flavors and acidity you experience when drinking the coffee are rooted in the taste of the land where the beans were grown. Because Nakamura values his dialogue with the beans, he confirms where they were born and the environment in which they grew, checking their moisture content and fermentation levels.

As the moisture evaporates, the sound changes.
The beans from “Mame Pole Pole” undergo this relay of care before being roasted in a meticulously selected German roaster.

Okinawa’s World-Renowned Specialty Coffee

What truly surprises Nakamura is the coffee bean “Akachichi” from ADA Farm, a coffee farm located in the Yanbaru Forest in northern Okinawa—the first in Japan to receive specialty coffee certification.

“Akachichi” derives from “akatsuki,” the Okinawan word for dawn. Mr. Nakamura named it with the hope that this would not just be a passing trend, but a dawn that leads to the future.

The intense acidity and fruity flavor characteristic of high-quality coffee beans are created by temperature fluctuations. These fluctuations harden the beans, locking in sugar and making them sweet. Indeed, coffee is a fruit. However, Okinawa has low elevation and minimal temperature variation.It cannot be said to be blessed with an ideal environment for growing coffee beans, and cultivating specialty coffee was considered difficult. So why was Akachichi grown in Okinawa and certified as specialty coffee? The answer lies in the dedication and passion of Mr. Tokuda of ADA Farm, who is meticulous about the ripeness of every single bean.

“Ensuring that every cup of coffee consumed by the customer has a wonderful flavor and is satisfyingly delicious.”
The essence of specialty coffee, as defined by the Specialty Coffee Association of Japan (SCAJ), lies not only in the quality of the beans but also in thorough management and sustainability from production to extraction.The beans from “ADA Farm,” nestled in the deep forests of Yanbaru, embody this ideal. And the roasting by “Mame Pole Pole” connects the producer’s passion and the breath of the forest to us in the finest possible state. Beans grown in the forests of Okinawa and recognized worldwide are roasted by someone who loves this island, bringing out their unique character. Then, they are carefully brewed using the water of this land.The dedication of these two individuals converges to create the ultimate luxury: “satisfying deliciousness.”

To deliver “a cup of coffee that can only be made here and will astonish the world,” they continue to walk alongside the forest today, pouring their passion into every single bean.

The post “Mame Porepore”: A Special Coffee You Can Only Enjoy in Okinawa / Okinawa City, Okinawa Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

MONKEY MAJIK, one of Japan’s premier rock bands, continues to shine in the music scene. Their vocalist and guitarist, Maynard Plant, and drummer, TAX, are now dedicated to beekeeping. They harvest honey in Tomiya City, Miyagi Prefecture, where they’ve lived for over 20 years. They sell their raw honey at a shop called “EIGHT CROWNS” inside the city’s central tourist exchange station, “Tomiya-do.”What led these musicians to become beekeepers…?

Beekeeping in Tomiya, inspired by childhood memories

Tomiya City, Miyagi Prefecture, is a town of over 50,000 people adjacent to northern Sendai City, once prosperous as a post town. In recent years, it has gained attention as a “child-rearing friendly town,” attracting young families. Living in Tomiya for over 20 years are MONKEY MAJIK’s Maynard Plant and drummer TAX, aka Takuya Kikuchi.

These two founded the honey company “EIGHT CROWNS” in 2018.

The world of beekeeping they encountered in Canada

The background to this lies in Maynard’s childhood in Canada. As a teenager, he sometimes helped his uncle, who was a beekeeper. He learned firsthand about nurturing the tiny lives of tens of thousands of honeybees, how their pollination allowed crops to bear fruit, and how people then enjoyed that bounty. It was a time of experiencing the cycle of nature and the role each living thing plays. That memory stayed with him, becoming a desire to “try it myself someday.”

An encounter in Tomiya City connects the dots

Amidst this, Maynard, who was serving as a navigator on an NHK local program, met Tomiya City Mayor Hirotoshi Wako. Mayor Wako was interested in “urban beekeeping” conducted on building rooftops and was practicing it on the roof of Tomiya City Hall. Sensing something fateful in this, Maynard decided, “Tomiya is a town promoting beekeeping, so I should try it too!” and began beekeeping with TAX.

The Beginning: “Eight Beehives”

They started by placing seven Western honeybee hives and one Japanese honeybee hive—eight hives total—in the lush green area called “Nanatsumori” in central Miyagi Prefecture.The “EIGHT” in the company name EIGHT CROWNS comes from this. Maynard explains that “CROWNS” was chosen because he wanted a word showing respect for the queen bee, adding with a laugh, “Later, I realized ‘EIGHT’ is the Japanese word for the number eight (hachi), so it was perfect.”

Creating Unique Honey Through Terroir-Driven Beekeeping

Rather than migratory beekeeping, which moves hives in search of flowers, Maynard and TAX wanted to harvest honey from their own terroir. They planted Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) as a nectar source. Known for its distinctive blue-purple flowers, Japanese honeysuckle is considered one of the best nectar plants for honeybees. Collecting its nectar produces a golden, fruity honey. Characterized by a light sweetness, it pairs well with tea, yogurt, and cheese.While the honey yield is never large, their sole focus is on quality.

While they may expand their collection sites, they have no plans to move their hives. The flavor of the honey subtly changes each year due to the climate and natural environment. They find value in these differences, seeing them as the unique terroir of this land, offering distinct tastes to enjoy.　

The “WILD FLOWER” flavor born in Tomiya

Given Tomiya’s location, collecting monofloral honey from a single type of flower is difficult. Instead, they harvest nectar from mountain cherry, acacia, wisteria, and others, packaging it as “WILD FLOWER.” Meanwhile, they source and sell monofloral honeys from beekeepers across Japan who share their scale and dedication.

Using this single-flower honey (acacia), the company focuses on producing Infused Honey, where ingredients like habanero peppers, lemon, and saffron are steeped in honey. Beyond its versatility in cooking, it’s gaining attention overseas for its potential health benefits, such as boosting metabolism and enhancing immunity.

Challenging the World from Tomiya with Honey Wine (Mead)

Furthermore, they brew “mead” from WILD FLOWER. Mead is an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting honey, water, and yeast. It is said to be the world’s oldest alcoholic beverage, even appearing in mythology.

Developing Mead with Tohoku Breweries

The impetus for mead brewing came when TAX, during MONKEY MAJIK’s Canadian tour, saw an in-flight magazine feature on mead and proposed, “We should definitely try this.” After returning to Japan, Maynard and TAX sampled meads worldwide and decided to commission brewing with a sake brewery in the same Tohoku region.Only about 20-30 companies in Japan brew mead, and this company is the sole producer in the Tohoku region. The rarity lies in the very environment capable of producing mead. Leveraging fermentation techniques honed in sake brewing, they craft mead that preserves the honey’s natural aroma and flavor. The range extends from sweet to dry styles. Maynard and TAX tasted it and found it delicious, which was the deciding factor in entrusting them with the brewing.

A dry, fruity cup born from sake yeast × raw honey

EIGHT CROWNS’ mead uses sake yeast as an ingredient. Combining watered-down raw honey with sake yeast results in a slightly tart, dry finish. After much experimentation, the president of Mine no Yuki Shuzo settled on this yeast, producing a mead that’s fruity like Muscat grapes and easy to drink.

Maynard laughs, saying of his mead, “I never imagined it could taste this good! I’m incredibly satisfied.” Just as grapes determine wine’s flavor, honey dictates mead’s taste. It goes without saying that EIGHT CROWNS’ exceptional honey creates exceptional mead.

Worldwide Recognition

EIGHT CROWNS’ mead, named “WILDFLOWER TRADITIONAL MEAD,” won a gold medal at the 2023 BTI World Mead Challenge, a globally recognized American mead competition. It boasts an exquisite balance of acidity and sweetness, with a clarity reminiscent of sake. Though Maynard was initially hesitant about brewing mead,his pursuit bore fruit, driven by the desire to “pair it perfectly with various dishes and deliver the natural bounty gathered by bees directly to the table.”

His goal is to create “the world’s best mead” and connect beekeepers globally.

When asked about his future dreams, Maynard shared: “First, I want to build my own meadery.” He also aims to create a mead that surpasses even their highly acclaimed current offerings to become the “world’s best,” and to revitalize the local community through mead.

He also smiled as he shared his vision as a beekeeper: to become a “hub” connecting beekeepers not just in Japan, but around the world.

EIGHT CROWN honey is unheated and minimally filtered, preserving abundant natural vitamins, minerals, and enzymes. This is because they want to deliver the flavor and nutrients of the nectar gathered by bees from flowers with as little loss as possible. This also connects to expressing Tomiya’s terroir.

Born in a small town in nature-rich Miyagi Prefecture, this honey and mead, recognized worldwide, should bring richness and vitality to everyday life. We invite you to experience the “finest honey and mead” born in Tomiya with all five senses.

The post The goal is to create the world’s best mead in both name and substance. Maynard Plant, Representative of “EIGHT CROWNS” / Tomiya City, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kiyosato Jam began when its founder relocated to run a pension, eventually creating jams and cordials with unique recipes that resonated widely. President Yoshiki Sanoma attributes this success to “Kiyosato’s distinctive environment,” a place with a history of welcoming pioneers. What drives his ongoing product development?

Jam Making Born from Pension Management

Located in the Moegi Village area of Kiyosato, Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture, at the southern foot of the Yatsugatake Mountains, is Kiyosato Jam Agricultural Corporation. Here, you’ll find jams so fresh and juicy that people say it’s “like eating the fruit itself.”

“We avoid unnecessary steps and let the ingredients’ natural flavors shine,” says Yoshiki Sanoma, President and CEO of Kiyosato Jam Agricultural Corporation.

They continue making jam with the motto of valuing “sincerity” over manufacturing efficiency. Mr. Sanoma established the “Kiyosato Jam” workshop in 2003. It began when he moved to this area in his early thirties and started producing ingredients for the pension business he launched.

Starting a Second Life in Kiyosato

Born in Gunma Prefecture, Mr. Sanoma moved to Tokyo for university and later pursued a career in fashion by attending a specialized school. After graduation, he worked as a designer under a famous fashion designer. While the work was rewarding, he gradually felt stifled by the relentless, fast-paced days of constantly chasing trends.

Longing to work amidst nature reminiscent of his hometown, he decided to pursue the then-booming pension business. While searching for properties around the Yatsugatake area, he encountered Kiyosato and resolved to establish his pension business here.

Interest in Agriculture

Reflecting on those early days, Sano-san recalls starting farming himself because he couldn’t reliably source the ingredients needed for the meals served at the pension.

He started by growing herbs and vegetables, but gradually became deeply immersed in farming. “I started farming because I had no choice but to grow my own ingredients, but it actually worked out pretty well. Since I was already interested, I studied and gradually expanded what I grew.” After much trial and error searching for crops suited to Kiyosato’s soil, he settled on blueberries.

He began cultivating them in earnest as a tourist farm. When he served homemade blueberry jam made from his harvest with meals at the pension, it received overwhelmingly positive feedback from guests. Requests for supplies also started pouring in from nearby hotels, finally prompting him to take the plunge into full-scale product development.

Kiyosato’s Welcoming Environment and the Expanding Jam Business

Mr. Sanoma began developing the processed goods market as a pillar alongside lodging. A pivotal moment arrived in 2003 when he was approached about the construction of facilities within Moegi Village, an initiative conceived by the then-mayor of Takane Town.

“The mayor at the time was an extremely enthusiastic and intelligent person. While the region traditionally focused on dairy farming and its products like milk, he dedicated himself to developing other local specialties and agriculture.”

Creating specialty products beyond milk. To fulfill this mission, Mr. Sanoma entered the jam-making business with a direct recommendation from the mayor. Successfully selected, he expanded the small-scale operation—previously only producing enough for the pension—and established “Kiyosato Jam Agricultural Corporation, Ltd.”Finally, the “Kiyosato Jam” brand, using local Yamanashi fruits, was born. Mr. Sanoma describes this entire process as “something only possible because it was Kiyosato.” “Kiyosato is a town of pioneers, so it had a culture of welcoming outsiders.” Indeed, history shows that residents from villages submerged by the 1938 construction of the Okutama Lake dam relocated to the Kiyosato area and began new settlements.Kiyosato, which developed the region through the harsh work of reclaiming barren land while enduring severe cold and hunger, likely possesses the “culture of acceptance” Sano-san mentions. It was precisely because of this culture, which treated migrants without discrimination, that such a new movement could emerge.

Back then, Takane Town was also an early adopter of “farmstay collaboration,” combining agricultural experiences with lodging. The town mayor established an organization called the Youth Academy, conducting annual study tours to European countries. They learned how to link agriculture to tourism through “agritourism” and observed vegetable and fruit production sites firsthand.”It was an extremely meaningful experience,” recalls Mr. Sanoma, who was a member of the Youth Academy at the time. Inspired by these study tours, Mr. Sanoma began implementing initiatives at his pension that combined lodging with farm activities, such as picking experiences and jam-making workshops.

The Enchanted “Kiyosato Jam”

The most popular product in the “Kiyosato Jam” line is the white peach jam. “While strawberry jam is usually the top seller, white peach is our best seller,” he explains.One reason is that by manufacturing and selling only during the peak season, they can deliver the inherent fresh, juicy flavor of the fruit. Of course, the other varieties in the lineup are also so popular they sell out within the season. The jams, made from carefully selected ingredients, come in 25 different types.

The “Kiyosato Jam,” featuring large chunks of fruit for a satisfying texture, comes with a trade-off. “Preparing the fruit takes half a day, which is inefficient,” he says with a wry smile. While typical jam production might allow for three batches a day, here they can only manage one.The daily process begins with prepping ingredients personally inspected by Sano-san in the morning. His jams have a sugar content of 37 degrees Brix, slightly lower than store-bought varieties. This allows the acidity, aroma, and the depth of flavor from the natural bitterness to shine through, resulting in a jam that highlights the ingredients’ true taste rather than just sweetness.

He uses a unique “vacuum low-temperature concentration” method, taking time to evaporate moisture without using additives like pectin or flavorings to achieve the jam’s viscosity. This process concentrates the ingredients’ flavors, resulting in a jam that is fruity and tastes like “the fruit itself.”

Mr. Sanoma described this entire process as “casting a spell.” Inside each jar of delicious-looking jam lies the magic he arrived at through continuous trial and error, packed tightly within.

A “Japanese Cordial” found only here 

Jam-making began as a side venture to the pension business. While wholesale to retailers and hotel shops was the main focus until recently, requests for product development have increased in the last few years—for jams served at hotel breakfasts and gift jams. “Thanks to the positive response, I truly feel our recognition is gradually growing,” Sano-san answers proudly.

In response, they closed their thriving pension business and now focus solely on jam production. Within this shift, a new product called “Cordial” was developed.

Cordials are relatively unfamiliar to Japanese consumers. Originating in Britain, they are flavored syrups meant to be diluted. They can be enjoyed in various ways: mixed with sparkling water for a non-alcoholic drink, or added to tea or yogurt to savor their aroma and sweetness. Currently, most cordials available in Japan are imported, with very few produced domestically.

“Of course, our best-selling product is jam. But jam-making and fruit processing naturally lead to developing various other products. Cordial is one such example. We enjoy processing and are actively developing new products.”

Since its development, it has grown into a popular product, garnering significant attention as “Japanese cordial.”

The Future of “Kiyosato Jam”

The current challenge for Kiyosato Jam Co., Ltd. is a shortage of workers. Mr. Sanoma himself is getting older, and finding the next generation to take over is proving difficult. Furthermore, many of the farms supplying the fruit are closing down because they lack successors. There’s also anxiety about whether they can continue sourcing the same fruits consistently, due to poor harvests caused by global warming. Yet, even in these tough circumstances, quitting jam-making is not an option for Mr. Sanoma.

“Even so, I still get ideas for things I want to do. I think it’s like being told, ‘You should keep working for the world.’ So, while I can still move, I want to challenge myself in various ways. Making bread that pairs well with jam is my immediate challenge.”

Kiyosato Jam offers a variety of products, including jams, cordials, and bread. At its core lies the desire to create quality goods, to contribute to Yamanashi’s agriculture and tourism, and ultimately, to serve the world. Through trial and error, developing unique methods, and crafting products with sincerity, Sano-san’s journey will likely continue to be embraced by the world.

The post Made possible by the land of Kiyosato: “Kiyosato Jam Agricultural Corporation, Ltd.” / Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

AMAM DACOTAN is a bakery from Fukuoka that pioneered the nationwide Maritotsuzzo boom. It has also opened a store in Tokyo, as well as a sister store “DACOMECCA,” another brand “dacō? and another brand “I’m donut? a specialty store for fresh doughnuts, and others. All of them draw huge lines every day for their creative baked goods! What is the secret of their popularity?

Creating stores that create “excitement” with delicious breads

Amamudakotan is located in Ropponmatsu, a little away from downtown Fukuoka City. Stepping into the shop, you will feel as if you are visiting a fantasy world in the stylish space with antique furniture and a lot of dried flowers hanging from the ceiling. The aroma of freshly baked bread fills the air, and it is a blissful moment when you are tempted to buy one thing or another! Six years after its opening, the store is still very popular, with a long line of customers waiting in line even before the store opens.

Starting from a small pasta store of 7 tatami mats

Ryota Hirako, the representative of Amamudakotan, was not originally a baker, but a chef trained in Italian cuisine for about 10 years. After becoming independent, he opened the pasta specialty restaurant “Hiraconche” in Hirao in 2012. It was a small restaurant of about 7 tatami mats where I was the only cook,” recalls Hirako. After the store flourished, it moved to a larger location in Kego, where it opened a café-restaurant on the first floor and a dried flower store on the second floor.

Bread and dried flowers is an unexpected combination. I have always loved antiques, so I wanted to open a dried flower store as well,” says Hirako. The café-restaurant has gained a reputation for the beautiful visual of fresh flowers hanging from the ceiling before they are dried. He also painted the walls and floors himself, creating a unique space that has become the cornerstone of the restaurant’s current design.

Dough from “Breadstock

Mr. Hirako says he has always loved bread. He says, “Like myself, I think that people who say they like bread like not only the bread itself, but also the excitement of going to a bakery and choosing bread. Six or seven years ago, however, most bakeries offered only a few items. The only bakery that satisfied his desire to go to a bakery was “Breadstock” in Higashi Ward, Fukuoka City. Hirako fell in love not only with the wide selection of items, but also with the flavor of the dough. While he insisted on making everything by hand at his restaurant, he began to want to make his own bread, which was the only bread he purchased. Hirako learned to make dough at “bread stock,” which she was fascinated by, and opened the bakery “Amamudakotan” in Ropponmatsu in 2018.

From a chef’s point of view, he develops breads with a free spirit.

The “breadstock” dough, made from domestic wheat and aged for about 15 hours, is characterized by its crispy texture and rich moisture. The breads at Amamudakotan, such as sandwiches filled to overflowing with ingredients and hot dogs topped with homemade sausages, are both hearty and photogenic, and have captured the hearts of customers.

Bakers want people to taste the dough itself, so they tend to keep the ingredients in their bread simple,” says Hirako. When I go to a bakery, I think of bread as an ingredient, as a cook, and I feel like I’m visiting a produce or butcher store (laughs). (Laughs). “I always look at the bread while thinking, ‘Wouldn’t it taste better if I did this? As she looked at the bread, she realized that the best balance was to enhance both the ingredients and the bread, rather than focusing on one or the other, and this led her to her current voluminous style.

Hirako’s goal is to create bread with a sense of unity, where the ingredients are delicious, the dough is crisp, and everything enhances each other. Many people come from far and wide to enjoy the bread made from the chef’s point of view, with the flavor of the ingredients as the main ingredient and the texture of the bread as the supporting dish.

Every time a new product is released, it attracts attention, such as the “maritozzo,” a local Italian pastry that has made “Amamudakotan” a nationally popular restaurant on SNS.

Deep-fried brioche dough, a new kind of doughnut

One of the hottest items on the market today is a “raw doughnut” made by deep frying brioche dough. One day, Mr. Hirako was working on a prototype of a new product in preparation for the opening of “Dakomecca,” a sister store of “Amamudakotan. I especially like the brioche dough from ‘breadstock,’ and I was always looking for possibilities outside of bread,” he said. When he tried frying the dough, he was shocked by the texture, which melted in his mouth for the first time. The staff all tasted it together and were very excited. We were so excited,” he smiles. He named the new melt-in-your-mouth texture “raw doughnut,” and opened the raw doughnut specialty store “I’m Doughnut? a store specializing in raw doughnuts, in the hope that many people will enjoy them.

He named it “raw doughnut” after the new texture, and opened a shop specializing in raw doughnuts in the hope that many people would enjoy it. However, the soft, melt-in-your-mouth brioche dough from Breadstock is what made it possible for us to achieve this delicious taste. The dough is fried as if it were a fritter, further developing the “breadstock” dough. It is precisely because he is a chef that he continues to create new things from his own perspective.

I want to pursue the fun of creating a restaurant.

Finally, in 2021, he will open his first “Amamudakotan” in Omotesando, Tokyo. We decided to expand into Tokyo because we used to live in Omotesando and love the city, and above all, we wanted to open a store where our staff could see the possibilities for the future. In addition, there are three Dakoh stores under the “Dakoh” brand, six I.M. Doughnuts? has now grown to six stores in Japan and one overseas, bringing the total number of stores in Tokyo alone to 12.

What is even more surprising is that they do not simply open stores in the same format, but rather create a different concept for each store, taking into account the local characteristics of the area. First, Hirako looked at the property and designed the space himself, imagining what kind of interior would be best for this particular location, given the site’s location. He also produced the bread lineup, staff uniforms, background music, and merchandise. For example, the Ochanomizu branch of Dakoh has its first café, and the Shibuya branch of I.M. Doughnuts? The Shibuya store of “I’m Doughnuts?” has 50 different types of doughnuts on display… Although it would be more cost-effective to open stores following the same format, “It is fun to create one store at a time, even if it takes a lot of time and effort,” says Mr. Hirako.

I want people to enjoy going to the bakery.

Mr. Hirako’s extraordinary passion for creating stores stems from his desire for people to “enjoy going to bakeries. This is reflected in every aspect of the bakery, from the bread and space to the customer service of the staff, which continues to impress visitors.

With the increase in the number of stores and more than 100 staff members, my responsibilities have also increased,” says Hirako. But I think the most important thing for the company is to do what I want to do. The staff with long experience in the field has also grown up and has become a great support for Mr. Hirako’s creativity. There are still many things I want to do, so I would like to sort them out (laughs). We can’t take our eyes off Ms. Hirako’s new creations and new stores, which always surprise and thrill us.

The post A new kind of bread & doughnuts created from a chef’s point of view. AMAM DACOTAN” by Ryota Hirako / Fukuoka City, Fukuoka Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

While running his organic dried fruit import and sales business “AMBESSA,” he is self-sufficient in food through natural cultivation, uses solar power for energy, and builds his own store. Mr. Kimishima continues to acquire the “zest for life” in Minami-Boso that he learned on his travels around the world, and is quietly questioning how he should live and work in the future.

Visit “Abyssinia,” AMBESSA’s directly managed grocery in Minami-Boso

The southern part of Boso Peninsula is one of the warmest areas in Chiba Prefecture, where citrus fruits and flowers are cultivated. In this area of southern Boso facing the Pacific Ocean, Mr. Kimishima lives with his wife, Aguri, and their two children. Although it is less than a 10-minute walk to the ocean, the gently rolling mountains of the Boso Hills approach the coast, with lush green satoyama mountains in the background. Standing as if blending in with the scenery of Minami-Boso is AMBESSA’s directly managed store, “Organic Grocery Abyssinia,” located on the grounds of the main building.

Incidentally, these store names are derived from the Rasta philosophy, which has greatly influenced Mr. Kimishima’s philosophy. The lion used as a symbol in various parts of Ethiopia, the starting point of this philosophy, is called AMBESSA in the ancient local language, and Ethiopia is called Abyssinia.

Building a “store that goes back to the soil.”

Abyssinia, which opened in 2018, was designed and built by Kimishima himself under the guidance of the architectural firm Koufurin in Isumi City, located in the central Boso Peninsula, using natural materials found in our daily lives, such as mountain clay, ocean sand, thinned wood, and rice husks.

It took about three and a half years and a lot of hard work to get it into shape, but I was able to maintain it myself and make it functional. For example, the thatch in the walls helps to insulate the building. He looks back on how his own experience of building with natural materials made him rediscover the qualities of Japanese traditional houses.

The “Back to the Soil” store sells organic dried fruits, nuts, spices, and herbs, as well as breads and baked goods made by Akuri.

Giving Value to Substandard Foods

Kimishima-san recommended Abyssinia, a dried fruit made from apples grown naturally in Aomori Prefecture without pesticides or fertilizers, which is one of AMBESSA’s staple products. It is characterized by its delicate, sweet flavor and the rich nourishing taste that comes out with each munching.

The dried apples used for this product are originally small and flawed, and are considered out of standard in general distribution. Even though they are out of standard, the taste is certain. We buy such fruits and vegetables that cannot be distributed in the market and dry them to increase their value. Processing them into dried products is also a part of our efforts in this regard.

Dry processing of selected ingredients

In 2010, AMBESSA began importing dried fruits and other agricultural products from overseas and distributing them to natural food stores and restaurants in Japan. In principle, products are grown without pesticides or chemical fertilizers, and are limited to those without additives or preservatives.

In recent years, in addition to tangerines, blueberries, raisins, prunes, and other fruits grown by the Kimishima family, the company has been increasingly using fruits from farms connected through acquaintances. These domestically grown fruits are dried in a dryer in his atelier.

The best moisture content is around 15%, but if the fruit is too dry, it will dry out and almost disappear, and if it is not dry enough, it will become moldy,” explains Kimishima. But if it is too dry, it will dry out and almost disappear, and if it is not dry enough, it will get moldy.

AMBESSA’s essential dried fruit is the date (jujube palm). In fact, it was a date that Mr. Kimishima encountered on a trip to North Africa that inspired him to start importing and selling dried fruits.

Bringing Dried Fruits to Japan

Mr. Kimishima was born in Fukagawa, Tokyo in 1977. When he was in his 20s, he worked part-time and whenever he had enough money saved up, he traveled around the world as a backpacker.

During his travels, he tasted dried dates from Tunisia and was surprised at how delicious they tasted. “At the time, there were no high quality organic dried fruits in Japan,” he said, and seeing the potential for business, he decided to start importing them. At the same time, however, Mr. Kimishima was not interested in dried fruit solely from a business standpoint. At the time, Mr. Kimishima was eating a vegetarian diet, and his interest in dried fruits was growing.

Living in Harmony with Nature in Central America

This was before his encounter with dates. During his trip to Central America, Mr. Kimishima stayed in a Rastafarian commune (a religious movement that emerged in the 1930s in Jamaica, mainly among the working class and peasants), which influenced reggae music and vegetarianism, and the experience of living in harmony with nature there greatly influenced his own philosophy. This experience greatly influenced his philosophy.

I felt that a way of life with nature, as in the Rastafarian commune, could provide hints for gradually solving various problems that society faces. I had a vague idea at the time that I might be able to convey this through products such as dried fruits. I also wanted to acquire the power to live like the people who helped me at the commune,” he said.

On a subsequent trip to Ethiopia, the starting point of the Rasta way of thinking, Mr. Kimishima positioned Ethiopia as the starting point of his own way of life.

Practicing a Self-Sufficient Lifestyle

After returning from his trip, Mr. Kimishima started a new life in Minami-Boso, as Mr. Akuri’s parents lived in Chiba Prefecture. He renovated an 80-year-old traditional Japanese house, generating his own electricity with solar power and practicing natural farming without using any pesticides or fertilizers in the rice paddies and fields. He makes a living and earns his living with his own hands.

He grows rice such as Sally Queen, a variety that goes well with curry and paella. Rye is used to make the bread and Stollen that Mr. Akuri makes. Vegetables and fruit trees for self-sufficiency grow in the field behind the store, and after harvesting, he also picks seeds. She says, “We should increase what we can do for our own survival, rather than entrusting it to someone else through money. If we do this, I think our current society, which is difficult to live in, will become a little more enjoyable and in harmony with the earth.

Bringing the Joy of Living to the Next Generation

Mr. Kimishima also enjoys “fun” to the fullest. He even renovated a warehouse on his property and built a disco.

He says, “We use electricity generated by solar power to make sound, spin a mirror ball, and have dinner while drinking craft beer brewed by a friend of mine from our fruit. I play like that with my friends,” Kimishima says with a laugh. While trying to get people interested in AMBESSA’s efforts through its products, Kimishima hopes to “convert this into something fun and open up opportunities to directly communicate our thoughts and ideas.

In the future, Kimishima’s vision is to promote community-supported agriculture, or CSA, in which producers and consumers in the same community work together to reduce food loss and purchase and support produce. What we are doing is also for the sake of future generations. It’s not a pretty word, but we have to leave a rich natural environment for our children. I would like to work together with others who share this vision.

Living in Minami-Boso, Kimishima’s daily life makes him realize that he is alive today. Through delicious food, Mr. Kimishima and his colleagues provide us with an opportunity to think about what is the fundamental joy and pleasure of being human.

The post Yuya Kimishima of “AMBESSA & CO” puts his passion for the power of life into organic dried fruits / Minami-Boso City, Chiba Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In French cuisine, it is called “panda d’or” and is known as the “queen of edible birds” due to its refined and delicate flavor. At Ishiguro Farm in Hanamaki City, Iwate Prefecture, which is also famous for its hot springs, panda d’or have been raised for approximately 50 years, taking advantage of the rich natural environment. Their meat is served at renowned restaurants throughout the country.

The only farm in Japan specializing in Japanese quail, located in a hot spring resort in the mountains.

Approximately 10 km northwest of the center of Hanamaki City, Iwate Prefecture.Nestled in the mountains beyond the “Hanamaki Onsenkyo” hot spring resort, which stretches along the valley of the Ou Mountains, lies the specialized quail farm “Ishiguro Farm.” The farm was founded by the grandfather of the current representative director, Yukichiro Ishiguro, who settled in this area after the war and began cultivating farmland. Eventually, the farm started raising chickens to supply a restaurant operated by relatives in Tokyo.

The farm began raising pheasants approximately 50 years ago. The impetus came when the family’s restaurant opened a branch in Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture, and they decided to create a signature dish that embodied the essence of Iwate. The first candidate was a dish featuring the prefectural bird of Iwate, the Japanese quail. However, the second-generation owner, Eijiro Ishiguro’s son, Shinjiro Ishiguro, attempted to raise quails but found it difficult to breed them, and there was also significant opposition to eating the prefectural bird.

At that time, he heard through a connection that “in France, the ‘horohoro bird,’ which belongs to the same family as the pheasant, is eaten as food.” He obtained a male and female from a zoo in Saitama Prefecture and began raising them. This was in 1973.

Raising the African-native horohoro bird in snowy Iwate

The guinea fowl is a bird of the pheasant family native to Africa. It has been little modified and remains close to its original form, but it has no strong flavor or odor, and is characterized by its tender, juicy, and refined taste.In Europe, particularly France, it is widely enjoyed as a premium ingredient, from high-end restaurants to home kitchens, and is often referred to as the “queen of game birds.” In Japan, it was first introduced during the Edo period by Dutch ships, and the name ‘porporato’ from that period is said to be the origin of the Japanese name “horohoro bird.”

When Ishiguro Farm began raising Holo Holo birds, there were no other examples of them being raised for food in Japan, so it was a trial-and-error process from the start. They began by keeping them in the existing chicken coops on the farm, but the nervous Holo Holo birds would panic at the sight of foxes through the wire mesh or even the slightest noise, causing them to gather in one spot and be crushed to death.Additionally, being native to Africa, they were sensitive to cold, and some died from being crushed while huddling together to stay warm. “Can we really raise ho-ho-birds in this snowy mountain area?” Amidst doubts and uncertainties, Shinjiro’s trial and error continued for several years.

A “floor heating chicken coop” utilizing the natural environment of a hot spring area

“How to protect the delicate birds from the cold.” The solution to this difficult problem was closer than he thought. It was the hot spring that was bubbling up on the property.

One day, while soaking in the “natural hot spring bath” he had installed at his home, Jinjiro thought, “What if I use this hot spring water for heating the chicken coop?” After trial and error, he succeeded in creating a “fuel-free floor heating system” by circulating the hot spring water through pipes installed under the chicken coop floor. Additionally, he renovated the chicken coop into a spacious indoor facility and adopted a “free-range” system, allowing the birds to move around freely and live stress-free.

In this way, Shinjiro established a stable production method for raising chickens. The subsequent economic boom further boosted his business, and the chickens became a sought-after luxury ingredient, with orders pouring in from restaurants owned by relatives and hotels in the Tokyo metropolitan area.

“The unique flavor of domestically produced chickens.” The third-generation challenge.

Born and raised as the third generation of the Ishiguro Farm, Koichiro did not immediately take over the family business after graduating from high school but instead became a ski instructor.He later joined the team of world-renowned skier Yuichiro Miura and traveled the globe on ski expeditions. He returned to Iwate and took over the family farm in the mid-1990s, just before turning 30. At that time, Ishiguro Farm was struggling due to the aftermath of the bubble economy collapse, with orders from its main clients—relatives’ stores and hotels—plummeting sharply.

“We needed to find new customers,” Yukichiro thought. He traveled to Tokyo several times a month, carrying a cooler box filled with Holo Holo chicken meat, and visited French and Italian restaurants. He was often turned away at the door, but some restaurants with a focus on authentic cuisine and chefs who had returned from France expressed interest, asking, “Is there domestic Holo Holo chicken?”

“Some chefs told me to come back after closing, and when I returned late at night, they had even gathered their chef colleagues to meet me,” recalls Koichiro with nostalgia. Some of the young chefs who were apprentices at the time are now top-class chefs using the quail meat. “The connections we made back then continue to be a great support for us today,” he smiles.

The livestock industry is seeing a decline in self-sufficiency rates.

The chickens at Ishiguro Farm are raised on a feed mix free of antibiotics and rice. As a result, they have no unpleasant odor or off-flavors, and their fat is light and crisp. “Some people say that when you crisply roast the skin, it smells like senbei (rice crackers),” says Koichiro with a smile.

When they first started raising chickens, they used only standard commercial feed, but switched to the current method around 2003. The catalyst was the statement, “Livestock farming is lowering the country’s food self-sufficiency rate.”

“A professor at Tokyo University of Agriculture told me that the livestock industry relies heavily on imported feed. The more we raise animals, the more the self-sufficiency rate drops. I had always thought that by raising livestock, I was contributing to increasing self-sufficiency, so it was a shock,” he recalls.

At the same time, Iwate Prefecture was implementing a “rice production reduction policy” to limit the production of rice for human consumption. Ishiguro Farm’s rice fields were also targeted, but Koichiro decided to switch to growing feed rice. He not only used the rice as feed but also incorporated rice husks and straw into the manure, beginning efforts toward a circular agricultural system.

The safety and taste unique to domestically produced products.

It has been over half a century since Ishiguro Farm began raising Japanese quail. While other farms have started raising them domestically, Ishiguro Farm is the only one that claims to be a “specialized farm.”

Currently, the farm ships approximately 40,000 birds annually. While thigh meat is the most popular cut for chicken, breast meat is said to have lower demand. However, Ishiguro Farm’s holoholo chickens receive orders for all parts of the bird. In particular, the breast meat is highly praised, with some chefs describing its juicy, tender, and mild flavor as “similar to whitefish.”

“It is truly encouraging as a producer to hear so many professionals say that our chickens are delicious,” says Yukichiro Ishiguro.Especially when French chefs recognized our chickens, it was deeply meaningful.“ As he mentioned, there is significant interest from restaurants in France, the birthplace of the Horo Horo chicken. When the renowned French restaurant ”Trois Glaces,” which has maintained three Michelin stars for over 50 years, decided to close its Japan branch, they requested to use Ishikuro Farm’s Horo Horo chicken for their final dinner menu and even invited the farm to the restaurant.

Furthermore, in 2025, the farm won the “Terroir Award” in the Japanese edition of the world-renowned gourmet guidebook “Gault & Millau,” which honors locally rooted food production. The award recognized the farm’s sustainable agriculture practices, such as using geothermal heat for chicken farming and cultivating feed rice with chicken manure, which contribute to the production of high-quality meat.

Aiming for Sustainable “All-Domestic Feed”

Ishiguro Farm has established Japan’s first-ever “edible quail farming,” gaining the trust of renowned chefs for its rarity and quality. However, the journey has not been smooth sailing. In 2023, an outbreak of avian influenza at the contracted hatchery resulted in the culling of all chicks. It took a year to rebuild production and resume shipments.

However, as if to save the day, the eldest son, Eitaro, graduated from university in Tokyo and returned home to take over the family business. Now, the eldest daughter is also helping out. Yukichiro jokes, “We were all scattered before,” but he can’t help but smile at the sight of his capable children.

Mr. Koichiro has a goal of raising chickens using only domestically produced feed. In other words, he aims to achieve a 100% self-sufficiency rate. According to statistics from the 2023 fiscal year, Japan’s feed self-sufficiency rate stands at approximately 27%. The majority of this is “roughage” such as grass and rice straw consumed by cattle, while “concentrated feed” like grains and corn accounts for just 13%.At Ishiguro Farm, they currently rely heavily on imported feed.

Still, “We have plenty of farmland, and some people in the area have started growing corn for feed. It’s not impossible,” says Yukichiro, looking ahead. Even if it’s difficult to achieve immediately, he plans to take one step at a time through trial and error. The history of Ishiguro Farm has been woven in this way. “There’s still so much we can do to create something better.We’ll do our best, and then leave the rest to our sons,” says the father with a smile. Shigekazu nods in agreement. The story of Ishiguro Farm and the ho-ho-ho birds will continue.

The post The “queen of poultry” raised in a natural environment with hot springs. Ishiguro Farm’s soft-boned chicken / Hanamaki City, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Soy sauce is an indispensable fermented seasoning for the Japanese.Recently, however, the number of soy sauce breweries engaged in its production has been declining.There are concerns about the decline of this traditional industry.Against this backdrop, Mr. Yoshinori Jo of Mitsuru Soy Sauce Brewery in Itoshima City, Fukuoka Prefecture, is taking up the challenge of reviving traditional breweries and making soy sauce with his own hands.

Decided to make soy sauce after learning that the company did not brew its own soy sauce

Most of them purchase soy sauce called “kiage” shoyu, which is made from unrefined soy sauce that has not been heat-treated or filtered, from soy sauce cooperatives or manufacturers.The soy sauce is then heated and seasoned only by the company itself.This is largely due to the “Law for the Promotion of Modernization of Small and Medium Enterprises” enacted in 1963.At that time, the government subsidized local cooperatives and manufacturers to efficiently produce products essential to daily life.While capital investment accelerated large-scale production, many small breweries stopped brewing their own products and shifted to purchasing from suppliers.Mitsuru Soy Sauce was one such brewery.
Having grown up with the aroma of soy sauce from an early age, Mr. Shiro naturally thought he would take over the family business.However, when he visited a large factory of a soy sauce cooperative as part of his work experience at an agricultural high school, he learned about the specific manufacturing process of soy sauce for the first time.I smelled the steamed soybeans, learned about koji and moromi, and thought, “Soy sauce is amazing.On the other hand, I felt sad that I didn’t have my own home brewery, and I wanted to make my own soy sauce someday!I wanted to make my own soy sauce someday!After graduating from high school, he went on to study brewing at Tokyo University of Agriculture.He began to study soy sauce making all over again.
While I was still a student!and went on an apprenticeship at soy sauce breweries all over the country.

While I’m still a student!”and train as a warrior at soy sauce breweries across the country.

Mr. Shiro began his journey into soy sauce making, but Mitsuru Soy Sauce had been out of brewing for more than 30 years, so he was unable to learn the know-how from his family, and the factory did not have any brewing equipment.Under these circumstances, Mr. Shiro, who was still a student, came up with the idea of traveling to breweries across the country to learn about soy sauce making.

I had a clear idea of what I wanted to do when I entered university, so I worked hard in my classroom, and during spring break, which coincided with the soy sauce brewing period, I asked my university professor for introductions and soy sauce breweries I met at department store events to let me study here for one week.I asked them to let me study here for a week, and they accepted me.Once I joined the family business, it would be very difficult to ask other manufacturers for training, so I decided to go as far as I could, thinking that I could only do this while I was still a student,” he said.

Thus, by the time he graduated, he had visited seven breweries and learned about soy sauce production at each.After graduation, he spent a year training at Okamoto Soy Sauce in Hiroshima, and before returning to Itoshima, he enrolled in a food coordinator training school in Tokyo to learn more about soy sauce production and its surroundings.After returning to Fukuoka, he began to steadily prepare for the revival of his business.

Start by fixing the sleeping vats and building the koji room.

However, the brewery was not equipped with a brewing environment that would allow him to make use of the knowledge and experience he had gained, so his first challenge was to set up facilities.

With the help of craftsmen, he repaired the wooden vats that had been sitting in the warehouse and built a new room for making koji.We didn’t even have a kettle for steaming soybeans, so we really needed the help of various professionals.For the wooden vats, we asked craftsmen from Fujii Seikosho, the only vat manufacturer in Japan that can produce large wooden vats using traditional methods, to come to our house in Osaka.They repaired the ones that could be used, but only two of the five that remained were usable.We started with those two and gradually increased the number of barrels.In this way, the vats, which had been lying dormant for some time, were brought back to life, and brewing began for the first time in about 40 years.

From the past to the present.Yeast Connects Soy Sauce Making from Our Predecessors

When Mr. Shiro was in college, he took yeast from a pillar in a warehouse that had been covered with mash that had been scattered from the vats when Mitsuru Soy Sauce used to brew its own soy sauce.This yeast was used in the first brewing of Mitsuru Soy Sauce, thus connecting the history of Mitsuru Soy Sauce.Perhaps it was this effect that led to the release in February 2013 of the first dark soy sauce since the revival of brewing, “Namaari,” which was greeted with the comment, “A wonderful soy sauce has been born!”and people from all over Japan praised the new product.

Many people I met during my time in Tokyo, such as the editors-in-chief of cooking magazines and writers, introduced me to many people who were well versed in the food industry,” he said.Word of our reputation spread by word of mouth, and we began to be used at famous sushi restaurants and French restaurants.

The reason why I chose the brand name “Namaire,” is because I wanted to keep it simple.I wanted to keep it simple.I wanted to keep it simple. I used local ingredients from Itoshima, handmade koji, and the traditional method of making soy sauce in wooden vats, and I chose the word “Namaire” to express the pure impression.

The ingredients are made in Itoshima and Okinawan salt.We challenge ourselves to make pesticide-free soy sauce and new type of soy sauce.

Eleven years have passed since the first shipment.Today, the soy sauce produced by Mr. Shiro is loved by many people and restaurants in Fukuoka and Tokyo.The ingredients are locally grown soybeans (fukuyutaka) and wheat (minami no kaori) from Itoshima, and the salt is shimasu from Okinawa.They sell dark, light, and re-finish soy sauces, as well as a pesticide-free dark soy sauce and a light-colored soy sauce called “orange.We had been trying to produce the pesticide-free soy sauce with the cooperation of local farmers since the beginning, but we had to stop production due to soil problems, etc. When we met with cooking expert Yoshiko Tatsumi, she blackmailed us, saying, “Why don’t you make it!She then asked me, “Why don’t you make it?I was given such an opportunity and started making it again with pesticide-free soybeans grown in Kyushu.Orange is a new soy sauce that we started to sell in 2023, and it is pressed before the moromi begins to ferment with lactic acid bacteria and yeast.We think you will enjoy the new flavor of soy sauce,” he says.When you actually lick the orange, you will find that the flavor is strong but the aroma of soy sauce is not strong, and the sweetness unique to koji spreads.It gives the impression of a new seasoning that is soy sauce but not soy sauce.

After starting to make soy sauce, I now understand why so many people are moving away from soy sauce production.Even if you prepare it the old-fashioned way, it’s tough from a business standpoint and takes a lot of time and effort.It is not an easy job.But I still want to stick to handmade, in-house brewing.I want to make use of everything that is produced during the soy sauce making process, such as selling the moromi and processing the strained lees into furikake, and I want to pursue new soy sauce possibilities, such as orange.Mr. Shiro hopes to continue to produce soy sauce on the current scale, without expanding to a larger scale.It seems certain that many people in the soy sauce industry, the culinary industry, and repeat customers will continue to pay close attention to what kind of soy sauce Mitsuru Soy Sauce will be releasing in the future.

The post Reviving in-house brewing from scratch: Mitsuru Soy Sauce Brewery, Yoshinori Jo, Itoshima City, Fukuoka Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Sanriku is one of the most famous fishing grounds in the world. The coastal area of Iwate Prefecture is known for its rias coastline, a complex network of bays, where scallop cultivation is thriving. Yamakiichi Shoten, located in Heita, Kamaishi City, sells “swimming scallops” so fresh you can hear the sound from inside the box. By delivering quality scallops, the company is enhancing the value of Sanriku.

Kamaishi, “City of Iron and Fish,” rich in Sanriku seafood

Kamaishi City, located in the southern coastal area of Iwate Prefecture, faces the Pacific Ocean to the east and is home to the rich marine resources of the Sanriku fishing grounds. As the birthplace of modern steel manufacturing, Kamaishi has prospered as a “city of iron and fish.

Yamakiichi Shoten is located near the Hirata fishing port in Kamaishi City. The company was founded in 1989. The company was founded in 1989 by Yukiteru Yukiteru, the father of Takeichi Kimigahara, the managing director and the president, with the aim of selling seafood from Sanriku. At first, they mainly sold wakame seaweed, but one day they were asked by the fishermen’s cooperative to sell scallops since they had a surplus of scallops due to their inability to establish a sales channel.

He started selling scallops when the fishermen’s cooperative asked him to sell them because they had a surplus of scallops without establishing a sales channel.

Iwate scallops fetch a high price.

The bay, which is made up of the intricate topography of the Rias coastline, has calm waves, making it ideal for scallop cultivation. For this reason, wakame seaweed, scallops, and oysters are actively cultivated in Sanriku.

While Sanriku boasts the second largest production of wakame seaweed and the fifth largest production of oysters in Japan, scallops are the only fish cultivated widely from Hokkaido in the north to Miyagi in the south, with Iwate scallops accounting for a mere 1 percent share of the total. Iwate scallops account for a mere one percent of the total.
Iwate’s scallops compete with Hokkaido in terms of production volume, but Iwate’s scallops compete in terms of quality. If Hokkaido is like a major sushi chain, Iwate’s role is different, like a restaurant,” Goichi says.

Iwate scallops fetch the highest prices in the market. Although the amount of scallops produced is small, the quality of the scallops is highly valued in the market.

Cultivation differs by production area

In many areas, Hokkaido scallops are cultivated using the “jimaki method,” in which young scallops are released into the sea and raised in a near-natural state on the ocean floor. On the other hand, in Sanriku, Iwate, the “ear-suspension method,” in which holes are drilled in the shells and the scallops are suspended by ropes, is the most common method of cultivation. The method of cultivation is different.

In the “ear-suspension method,” the young shellfish are released into the sea and grow by swimming around on the ocean floor. While the “ground-shelling method” uses the “surface” of the seafloor to raise the young, Sanriku Iwate’s “ear-suspension method” takes advantage of the deep water terrain of the inner bay, or “depth,” to raise them while they are floating in the water. Scallops raised by the “ear suspension method” do not come in contact with sand on the seafloor, so there is no need for them to spit sand. This is also an advantage of the “ear-suspension” method.

In addition, “ear-hanging” scallops are suspended by ropes, making them easy for fishermen to manage. Sanriku Iwate scallops are more concerned with size and quality than number. Since growth is affected by barnacles, seaweed, and other attachments to the shells, the fishermen are particular about cleaning the shells and raising and lowering the ropes to adjust the depth of the sea water flow to a good level.

It is also important to keep a proper distance between scallops in order to grow large scallops. The scallops are hung at predictable intervals to prevent them from growing too densely together. This is also done to prevent each rope from becoming too heavy. If the rope becomes too heavy and the float drops, it may reach the seafloor. If the rope is allowed to float in the water but sucks up sand on the seafloor, it is a waste of time and energy. Ear-suspension intervals, shell cleaning, and float management. These are also the particulars of the scallop fishermen of Sanriku Iwate.

While scallops from Hokkaido take three to five years to grow to the same size for shipping, scallops from Iwate can grow to the same size in two years. This is partly the result of the Sanriku fishing grounds, where the Oyashio and Kuroshio currents mix, and partly the benefit of the mountains, thanks to the nutrients from the humus that flows from the mountains. Hokkaido scallops are the same size but have thicker shells, while Iwate scallops are the same size but have thinner shells. Iwate scallops, on the other hand, are the same size but have thinner shells and larger scallops and meat.

Iwate scallops have thinner shells and larger meat, resulting in a higher yield. Yamakiichi Shoten’s “swimming scallops,” which are delivered alive, are trusted by restaurants in Tokyo for their freshness.

What are “swimming scallops”?

Recipients of Yamakiichi Shoten’s “swimming scallops” are surprised to see the scallops “swimming in the water” and the shells flapping open and closed. They even have to be careful not to get their fingers caught when peeling the shells. For this reason, the “swimming scallops” come with a peeling spatula and instructions.

You can order scallops in sizes of 11 cm or larger. The largest scallops can be as large as 15 cm or more, and there are even “phantom scallops” that can be ordered. In addition to their size, scallops swimming in the sea are thick and crisp.

The scallops’ scallops are also the muscles that open and close the shell. This is why scallops that are healthy enough to swim also have crisp scallops. If you actually peel off the shell, you will see the scallop moving and shaking.

Thick scallops and tasty strings

Yamakiichi Shoten delivers high quality scallops, carefully selecting scallops that satisfy customers in terms of size, taste, and freshness.

As a result, people who have only eaten scallops bought at the supermarket are surprised at the texture and rich taste. Some of them even say, “I didn’t know scallops could taste this good.
When people think of scallops, they tend to think only of the scallops, but with our scallops, the strings are sweet and delicious as well. Depending on the season, you can also taste the ovaries. If you work carefully, you will be appreciated. I believe that,” Goichi says.

What was commonplace in the scallop production area was “something special.

When Goichi’s father, Koki, started selling scallops, he went to Tsukiji for market research. There, he was astonished to see scallops being sold under the name “live scallops. The scallops he saw were completely different from the fresh scallops he had seen in Kamaishi, and they were very weak.

We had grown up seeing scallops freshly landed in the morning, so we took it for granted,” he said. But what was natural for scallops in Sanriku was ‘special’ elsewhere,” he recalls. We realized that Sanriku scallops were “something of value.

I want to deliver Sanriku’s valuable scallops fresh.

The president went through a trial and error process of transportation and shipping methods in order to deliver scallops fresh. At first, he loaded trucks with scallops that had just been landed, but some of them died before delivery. They were supposed to be fresh, but they were not. He realized that in order to maintain the freshness of the scallops, it was important to create the same environment as when the scallops were alive.

Scallops are only as good as the water they are landed in. Each scallop is cleaned, sorted, and created stress-free in the fish tank. Immediately after they are landed, scallops are in a state of excitement, so we make sure they rest in the fish tank for at least one day to create the same conditions as when they are in the ocean, and let them relax before shipping.　In pursuit of freshness, Goichi has arrived at the “swimming scallops,” which are delivered alive.

The method is a trade secret, but the key is to “put yourself in the scallop’s shoes.

Overcoming the Great East Japan Earthquake

The “swimming scallops” spread throughout Japan by word of mouth because of their high quality. Then, in March 2011, the Great East Japan Earthquake hit. The Great East Japan Earthquake triggered a tsunami. Yamakiichi Shoten lost its office and fish tank.

The scallop fishermen who were close to Yamakiichi Shoten continued their production. Although Yamakiichi Shoten was able to continue doing business for a living even without the fish tank, Goichi said, “Our mission is to deliver good scallops from Sanriku. It is different to ask people to buy them as reconstruction assistance.” He sent letters to 30,000 customers and stopped shipping “swimming scallops” until the fish tank was rebuilt.

In July 2012, the fish tank was rebuilt and the “Swimming Scallops” were restored. Letters of encouragement and gratitude arrived from all over Japan.

We want to express our gratitude and convey the charm of the production area.

In 2020, he will open “Yosuke,” a restaurant with a direct sales shop. This is a place where people can taste “swimming scallops” while being close to the Sanriku Sea.

Because he has been delivering good scallops, he says, “Even after the earthquake, my customers never left and waited for me. I want to convey that gratitude. I also want to convey the charm of the scenery and people of the production area.

Enhancing the value of Sanriku and walking with Sanriku

On the wall of the restaurant “Yosuke” is a history of Yamakiichi Shoten, letters of encouragement received from all over Japan after the earthquake, and messages about scallops swimming in the sea.
The history of Yamakiichi Shoten is also the history of the scallop fishermen of Miyako, Kamaishi, and Ofunato.

Swimming Scallops” won the Director-General’s Award of the Small and Medium Enterprise Agency.

In 2023, “Swimming Scallops” won the Director-General’s Award of the Small and Medium Enterprise Agency in the “buyer’s room 2023.

The “Swimming Scallops” is a product made from scallops that are peeled and then flash-frozen. The scallops are large in size, rich in flavor, and plump in texture. The best quality is delivered in a paulownia wood box. Only 15% of the scallops used in this product are 45g in size. They are also very rare.

Sticking to Our Beliefs Even in Severe Circumstances

In recent years, global warming has caused sea water temperatures to rise in summer. The ocean environment, which used to be just right for scallops to live in, has changed drastically. As a result, some scallops do not survive the summer and die before being landed, leaving the aquaculture industry in a difficult situation. It is precisely because of this situation that Yamakiichi Shoten purchases at a high price the high-quality scallops that local producers grow with great care, thereby boosting the local industry.

Since my father’s generation, we have been striving to buy scallops at the highest price on the beach,” says Yamakiichi. Securing income for fishermen is important, but that alone will not last forever. I think it is also important to foster a sense of fulfillment and pride,” says Goichi. Sometimes, he would take the fishermen to restaurants that wholesale scallops in order to remind them of the deliciousness of the scallops he has raised. Today, the restaurant “Yosuke” plays a role in this process. The fishermen are rewarded when people who have tasted the “swimming scallops” at the restaurant tell others about their deliciousness and excitement, and spread the word about the scallops.

Even if the production volume decreases, we will continue to sell scallops one by one. Swimming scallops” are the very charm of Sanriku. That is why we want to deliver only the really good ones.

With this strong belief, the “Swimming Scallops” are released to the world. Their deliciousness is filled with the fisherman’s insatiable “persistence” and Yamakiichi Shoten’s desire for the development of the scallop industry in Sanriku.

The post We want to deliver fresh “swimming scallops” that tell the story of Sanriku’s potential. /Kamaishi City, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Tantalizing taste of handmade tofu

Nagao Tofu Shop, established in 1948, uses domestically grown soybeans to make tofu without any additives or preservatives. They are particular about bittern and use “mizu-nigari” (water bittern). Mizu-Nigari uses natural magnesium chloride extracted from seawater, which is rich in minerals and produces tofu with the sweetness of nigari itself.

The post Nagao Tofu” – Tofu made from carefully selected domestic ingredients / Omura City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Why Hojicha is famous in Ishikawa Prefecture

Kaga-bocha ” or ” stick tea” and ” hojicha,” including ” Kaga-bocha,” known as Ishikawa Prefecture’s brand tea, have become famous as specialties of Ishikawa Prefecture. What is the history of these teas?

Ishikawa Prefecture was already widely known as a tea-producing area during the Meiji period (1868-1912), when the Kaga clan encouraged tea production in the Edo period. However, it was later exported overseas as a luxury item, making it inaccessible to the general public. A tea merchant in Kanazawa, Ishikawa, then devised a way to make effective use of the stems, a byproduct of the rough tea refining process. In this way, the price could be kept down, and tea became popular among the common people. While high-quality sencha is made by delicately steaming only the first tea leaves, “bancha,” “hojicha,” “stem tea,” and “stick tea” are made by trimming even the stems at once and roasting them over a high flame at once to create a strong aroma. The brewing process is also different. While sencha is carefully brewed at a low temperature, bancha, hojicha, stem tea, and stick tea are brewed by simply pouring boiling water over them.

Kaga-bocha, however, is different. While hojicha generally uses the tea leaves left over after they are plucked for sencha, Kaga-bocha roasts not only the leaves but also the high-quality stems, building a brand identity that rivals that of sencha. Among them, Kaga-bo hojicha produced by Aburatani Tea in Hakui-gun, Ishikawa Prefecture, boasts an exceptional taste among the many Kaga-bo teas available.

Benefits of hojicha

Because of its high-temperature roasting characteristic, hojicha is expected to have many positive effects.

The first is the improvement of sensitivity to cold. This is said to be due to the effect of pyrazine, the main component of the aroma, which is released during the roasting process of hojicha. This “pyrazine” is said to widen blood vessels and improve blood flow, and is expected to improve sensitivity to cold.

Second, it has a relaxing effect. Theanine, a sweetener contained in tea, is believed to work on the body and produce a relaxing effect.

Thus, hojicha is attracting attention as a drink that can be expected to improve sensitivity to cold and relax the body.

Aburatani Seicha continues to evolve

Aburatani Seicha began as a tea seller in 1918, and its predecessor, who succeeded the second generation, started tea production. The current president, Yusen Aburayama, has gained fans by personally brewing his own tea, which is carefully blended, for customers to drink at events held at department stores. He has been brewing his own tea at department store events and other events to win over customers and gain fans.

In ordinary hojicha, the leaves and stems are roasted together, but we remove the leaves and roast only the stems, ” he says. The secret to bringing out the sweetness is to heat it all at once at a high temperature. We use three gas burners to roast the tea at 250 to 300 degrees Celsius for about 10 minutes, but even a 1 degree Celsius difference can change the taste, so we change the temperature depending on the season.

The tea has a deep aroma and flavor without any cloying taste.

Nakata even said, “I used to think that stem tea was the leftover tea from sencha, but it has such a sweet and rich flavor.

Aburatani is also actively developing new products such as PET bottles and powdered teas to meet the needs of the times.

For PET bottles, we have been researching to enhance the sweetness of the tea. Tea leaves are a natural product, so the taste cannot be the same every time. Even so, we are making various efforts to create a similar taste. Recently, we have been receiving more orders for powdered tea for confectionery and ice cream. But the basic principle is to make delicious, safe and secure hojicha, ” says President Yutani. The company continues to evolve without resting on its laurels of branding and history, and this can be seen in its delicious tea leaves that can be easily experienced in PET bottles and even when brewed with water. Aburatani will continue to promote the growth of Japanese green tea not only in Ishikawa Prefecture, but throughout Japan.

The post Hojicha overturns conventional image Yutani Seicha Yutani Yusen / Hodatsushimizu-cho, Ishikawa, Japan first appeared on NIHONMONO.