Jidori chicken is raised with a lot of time and effort in each region. In Tochigi Prefecture, there is only one type of jidori, Tochigi-shamo, and only one farmer in Kanuma City is engaged in its production. It has been about 30 years since the birth of Tochigi-shamo. We visited Ms. Hisako Ishizawa, the representative of Tochigi Shamo Processing Plant, the only producer in Tochigi Prefecture.

What is Tochigi Shamo, the only locally raised chicken in Tochigi Prefecture?

The Tochigi Shamo is a breed developed by the Tochigi Prefectural Livestock Experiment Station in 1995, after about 10 years of research since 1986, in an attempt to create the prefecture’s only jidori chicken. The breed was born through three-way crossbreeding, in which a male Prenoir breed native to France was crossed with a female Rhode Island Red breed native to the United States, and the mother was crossed with a Gundori (military chicken).

The Tochigi-shamo has inherited the characteristics of the Prenoir breed, which is valued in French cuisine for its tender, fine-textured meat with low fat content, and the domestically produced Gundori, which has the richness and strong umami of chicken meat.

Grown over time on a spacious, nature-rich farm.

Tochigi Shamo Farm is located in Kanuma City, Tochigi Prefecture. Although the city is located about 30 minutes by car from Utsunomiya City, the prefectural capital, 70% of the city is covered with forests, and there is abundant underground water from the Nikko Mountains.
Tochigi-shamo, which are raised free-range on spacious farms in such a rich natural environment, are raised for as long as 140 days. The typical broiler chickens you see in supermarkets take about 50 days from birth to shipment, so it takes two to three times longer to grow chickens than that.
In addition, the company uses the “flat-feeding” method, in which chickens are kept free-range on a large farm. Chickens raised in this environment, which allows them to run around in a large area, have well-developed muscles, and this leads to meat that is more satisfying to eat and has a stronger umami flavor.

However, free-range chicken rearing, which has many advantages in terms of flavor, also has its challenges.
Because the chickens are free to move around the premises, strong chickens eat a lot of food and grow up quickly.
For this reason, Mr. Ishizawa staggers the shipping period from 120 days for the earliest chickens to 160 days for the latest chickens, and determines the timing of shipment to avoid inconsistencies in meat quality. Although it is time-consuming to determine the degree of growth of each individual fish, it is an important factor in the distribution of tasty “Tochigi-shamo.
The feed is original, made from rice and soybeans grown in Tochigi and blended in-house. Mr. Ishizawa says, “We sometimes feel hard hit by soaring prices, but we cannot change the feed because it affects the quality of the meat. There is no compromise in the way the Tochigi-shamo is raised in order to preserve its delicious taste.

In-house production from breeding to processing and sales

The predecessor of “Tochigi Shamo Processing Plant” was “Shinichi Ishizawa Shamo Farm” started by Shinichi Ishizawa’s father. It was established in 1996, the year after the Tochigi Shamo was developed at the prefectural livestock experiment station in 1995, and like today, it not only raised Tochigi Shamo, but also processed and sold them.

In producing Tochigi Shamo, the company initially received chicks supplied by the Livestock Experiment Station, but in 2010 (Heisei 22), the poultry research department decided to withdraw from the business. Mr. Ishizawa’s farm now handles all breeding.
However, chicks with small bodies are very delicate. I was very sorry when the chicks died when ventilation was delayed during hot weather…. It was very painful… I strongly felt that I wanted to prevent the same thing from happening again,” says Mr. Ishizawa. The recent hot summers have also reduced the number of eggs laid by the parent birds, which shows how difficult it is to raise such delicate creatures as chickens.

Processed by hand without additives

In 2018, he changed the company name to “Tochigi Shamo Processing Plant” and took over the business in earnest.
As for processing, everything is done by hand without using any additives. In particular, their smoked meat, which is marinated in an original formula for two days and smoked with local wild cherry trees, is a popular product. Each part of the meat, such as the breast, thigh, liver, and gizzard, is also available for sale.

Fresh meat is sold to yakitori restaurants and creative restaurants in and outside of the prefecture. The meat is shipped fresh and chilled the same day it is processed. In addition, the company participates in department store events and local events to demonstrate sales, conducts mail-order sales through its own website, and sells directly at its processing plant.
In 2022, the “Tochigi Agricultural Girls Project,” to which Ms. Ishizawa belongs, and the Hachisu Seminar of Toyo University’s Faculty of Business Administration collaborated to develop and sell a menu at Toyo University’s cafeteria to promote the appeal of Tochigi Shamo roe and other prefectural ingredients.

Tochigi-shamo roe is not fussy and does not have a strong flavor,” said Hachisu, ”but it can be served with other ingredients. But when combined with other ingredients, they do not interfere with each other, yet the eggs have a strong flavor. I was happy to hear the students say, “The taste is totally different from other eggs! It made me realize that I have to work even harder.

Steady promotion activities to increase the number of fans

While there are many “Shamo” type local chickens in Japan, such as the famous “Nagoya Cochin” and “Hinai Jidori,” “Tochigi Shamo” is still in its infancy in terms of name recognition. That is why Mr. Ishizawa not only produces and sells Tochigi-shamo, but also values the opportunity to make it more palatable.
He opens a store at festivals and other events, where he sells yakitori and other items. At first, they were seen as ordinary “yakitori” and sales were not good. However, as they continued to participate, more and more people became aware of the quality of their products, and recently, some people are buying them in bulk.

In terms of “raising awareness,” this may be just a small step.
Nevertheless, it is still a small step in terms of “raising the profile” of the product. And they are also engaged in dialogue with their consumers. One cannot help but feel the strength of Mr. Ishizawa’s desire to convey the charm of each and every chicken he carefully raises.

Delicious Tochigi Shamo at home!

Tochigi-shamo has a muscular and moderately resilient chewiness, which is a big attraction, but it requires some cooking tips to make it even more delicious, he says. According to Mr. Ishizawa, the most important thing is to cook it slowly. Not only Tochishamo, but also other muscular chicken meat should be cooked slowly at a low temperature to prevent it from becoming tough even when it cools down.

Ishizawa also says, “The chicken is fatty during the cold season, so I would be happy if you could finish off the umami-infused soup by cooking it in mizutaki (broth with water). He was beaming from start to finish as he talked about delicious ways to eat chicken. This is the expression of his love for his chickens.

Keeping “Tochigi Shamo” alive

In fact, Mr. Ishizawa was not the only farmer who originally produced “Tochigi Shamo,” but the time and effort required for breeding and the Corona disaster became a headwind, and other farmers withdrew from production. Only one company, Tochigi Shamo Processing Plant, remained.
The Tochigi Shamo, which is descended from the rough-tempered war chicken, is very strong and can injure itself if pecked with its beak or kicked with its claws. They are also easily startled by loud noises and movements, so one must be careful how they behave. Mr. Ishizawa, who has been doing this job for a long time, still laughs, saying, “It is not easy to raise Tochigi-shamo. Still, he continues to work with them because “Tochigi-shamo is really tasty, and we must not lose it! I can’t lose it!” His voice is strong as he continues to work at the business.

He says that the challenge is that he has not been able to market Tochigi shamo to all the restaurants, but through encounters with buyers from restaurants and retailers who visit his booth at events, he has gradually been able to increase the number of opportunities for people to get to know the taste. He is also enthusiastic, saying, “I want people to want to try it again after they have had it several times.
Ishizawa’s son is now also involved in production, and he laughs, “I want to protect Tochigishamo, so I do it even while fighting with my son.

The Tochigishamo, which weighs about 4 kilograms and cluck loudly, becomes docile when held by Mr. Ishizawa. I still have to be more diligent,” he said, as he gazed at the chickens. Mr. Ishizawa’s eyes and voice are warm and gentle as he gazes at the chickens in his arms, as if he were looking at a child.
The environment in which the chickens are raised, the feed they are fed, and many other things have gone through trial and error before reaching the present day. What has never changed, however, is the deep, abiding love he pours into his chickens. One cannot help but feel that this love is at the root of the deliciousness of Tochigi Shamo.

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Oenosato Nature Farm” raises hens in a flat-fed, stress-free environment. The eggs produced by the hens raised here are named “Tenbiran” (meaning “Heavenly Blessed Delicious Eggs” in Japanese). The price of these eggs is about 120 yen per egg. The price is more than three times higher than the price of a typical chicken egg, which is about 300 yen for a pack of 10 eggs. Today, however, the price of eggs has become less surprising as high-end eggs are now available, but it is no exaggeration to say that Oenosato Nature Farm’s Tenbi Eggs were the pioneers of high-end eggs, as they have been sold at this price since the late 1990s when the farm was established. The history of the company is filled with the founder’s desire to “raise the value of eggs.

An urban building that is hard to believe is a ranch nestled deep in the mountains

Oenosato Nature Farm is located in Hachigamachi, in the southeastern part of Tottori Prefecture. It is not far from the city, about 30 to 40 minutes by car from Tottori City, but as the name of the facility suggests, it is located in a mountainous area rich in nature, surrounded by greenery all around.

An urban glass-walled building suddenly appears in the midst of such great nature. From the front, at first glance, the sophisticated design does not look like a ranch, and rightly so. While it is a farm where more than 30,000 chickens are raised, it is also one of the most popular facilities in the prefecture, attracting more than 360,000 visitors a year, with a variety of large and small food booths, patisseries, bakeries, cafes, and gift stores.
However, it is not the popularity of the restaurants and gift stores that has made the facility so famous, but the poultry farming that has made it so well known.
The history of Oenosato Nature Farm began with its founder, Mr. Riichiro Obara, who still serves as its representative, and his 2,000 chickens.

From Doubts about Modern Poultry Farming to Independence

Why did he name his farm “ranch” instead of “poultry farm,” even though he is primarily a chicken farmer and does not engage in any other livestock farming?
The reason is deeply rooted in Mr. Obara’s experience.
Before opening Oenosato Nature Farm, Mr. Obara worked at a large poultry farm. There, chickens were kept crammed into a small space separated by cages. Cage-keeping is the practice at many poultry farms. Although he understood the reality of modern poultry farming, which demands productivity, he could not shake off his doubts and pain about this method of keeping chickens, and he could not bear to continue working as a poultry farmer.
Although he had once left the poultry farming business, Mr. Obara was still attracted to the work of poultry farming. Wanting to try a method of raising chickens in a natural environment, he decided to open a poultry farm in the rich natural environment of Oe, where his grandfather used to live.

At that time, Mr. Obara chose the “flat-feeding” method to realize his ideal chicken raising.
The chickens are free to run around in the spacious, sunlit coop without any partitions, and they are muscular and healthy. The chickens are free to run around freely and are muscular and healthy. They choose their favorite places to bathe in the sand or play in the sun, and spend their time comfortably, thereby minimizing their stress. Nowadays, more and more poultry farms are adopting this method of chicken rearing, which is called “animal welfare,” but at that time, it was still a rarity.
The chickens living here are gentle and very friendly,” says Obara. Even today, about 2,000 chickens are kept in one coop, and they almost never fight. At the poultry farm where he used to work, there were times when chickens in close proximity pecked each other, perhaps due to stress, and their feathers were torn to pieces. Based on this experience, Mr. Obara is now raising chickens while constantly thinking about the kind of environment he would like to be kept in if he were the chicken himself.
The ideal home he has created for his chickens is more like a ranch than a poultry farm. Mr. Obara named his facility “ranch” because he wanted to engage in poultry farming in such an environment.

Fresh eggs that you know the day they were laid.

As mentioned above, the eggs laid by the hens raised at the Oenosato Nature Farm are called “Tenbi Eggs” and have added value because of their commitment. What is noteworthy is the taste and appearance. The “richness” of the eggs is 1.5 times greater than that of ordinary eggs. The whites are elastic and the yolks are plump and healthy looking, with a rich orange color like the sun.

Mr. Obara recommends that first-time buyers try it with rice over egg, so that they can taste the freshness of the flavor.
Incidentally, purchasers often ask, “What is the expiration date of the eggs? When asked this question, Mr. Obara replied, “The expiration date of the eggs is about two years from the date of purchase. Oenosato Nature Farm answers, “For raw eggs, two weeks after birth,” but Mr. Obara tells us that the taste changes over time. Freshly laid eggs have a slightly hard taste. Of course, this can be called “freshness,” but after a few days, the taste becomes softer and “mellower,” he says. The reason for this is that freshly laid eggs contain a lot of carbon dioxide gas, which is released as time goes by.
Mr. Obara, who has been committed to improving the growing environment of his hens and enhancing the value of eggs since the time he opened his business, must be thinking daily about how to maximize the flavor potential of his eggs, rather than simply claiming to be fresh.
However, freshly laid eggs are still delicious, and instead of controlling the timing of their shipment, they believe that it should be up to the buyer to decide whether to enjoy the taste that mellows over time or to taste the freshly laid eggs right away. That is why Oenosato Nature Farm continues to insist on shipping eggs freshly picked every morning on the same day, even though the number of eggs produced has increased.
Because of this commitment, the company has been selling high-end eggs with confidence since the day it opened its doors.

Pancakes with a two-hour wait that made Oenosato famous.

As egg production increased, so did the number of out-of-spec eggs, of which a certain percentage were produced. In an effort to make use of these eggs, the company began selling processed products and offering sweets.

He insisted that the ingredients used in his processed foods and sweets be locally and domestically produced, and above all, he was absolutely confident in the taste of the eggs he produced.
However, being particular about ingredients does not necessarily mean that the sweets and dishes using those ingredients will taste good. What is important is whether they have experience, skills, and know-how in cooking. Oenosato Nature Farm is a poultry farm, and there was no way they could find a staff member with extensive experience in cooking, so the first person they turned to was an egg delivery staff member who loved to eat.
The staff gradually gained experience by visiting confectionery stores for training and hiring specialized instructors.
However, it was not until 14 years had passed since the poultry farm was established that they were able to complete products of a quality that they could sell with confidence and open a sales outlet in the facility.
It took a long time, but that is why we were able to succeed,” says Obara. The reason for this is that over the years, Tenbi Egg has become widely recognized, and at the same time, the number of people who share its value has increased. The sales office is attached to a poultry farm. Although it was not a place where many people came and went as in the city center, it was the fans who knew the value of Amami Eggs who were the first to visit the store when they heard the news of the start of the sweets sales. After many years of work, the products were highly acclaimed and became known throughout the prefecture by word of mouth.
The sweets made with Amami Eggs gradually became one of the representative brands of Oenosato, and today, many people learn about Amami Eggs and the ranch through these sweets.

Among them, “Oenosato Pancakes” made the name of Oenosato Nature Farm famous. The pancakes are made with firm Amami egg meringue, and are characterized by their melt-in-your-mouth texture and rich egg flavor. It has been the cafe’s signature item for many years, and even now, on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays, customers wait in line for two to three hours to get their pancakes.

It started out as a small pastry store built near a poultry farm in 2008, and gradually expanded as the number of customers grew, and a café space was added. In 2016, a large food facility was opened that also sells bread and sausages and has a restaurant. Behind the expansion of Oenosato Nature Farm from a poultry farm to a popular tourist attraction was Mr. Obara’s long-held dream of “creating a place where people can see, touch, and experience what we have been doing, so that many people will know the charm of this place.

A place where nothing is what it seems.

When he first began planning to turn Oenosato Nature Farm into a tourist attraction, he was afraid that the staff would say, “Isn’t it reckless for a single company to create a reason to visit this place with no tourist resources?” Mr. Ohara was reluctant to confide in his staff, because he was afraid they would say, “Isn’t it reckless for a single company to create a reason to visit this place with no tourist resources? However, when he set this enthusiasm as a goal and communicated it to those around him, he learned that there were a number of staff members who felt the same way. His enthusiasm spread to other staff members, and the entire company became involved.

The reason why the sweets store, café, and restaurant were not opened in the city center, where there is a large population flow, but instead in this location was because “This building would not stand out so much if it were in the middle of the city, but its value would be very different if it were here, where there is nothing but nature. We thought, “This is where we can do it. They wanted to convey to the young people of Tottori Prefecture an attraction that is not only found in urban areas.

To convey the charm of Oe

OOE VALLEY STAY” is a new attraction added to Oenosato Nature Farm. It is an accommodation facility that utilizes a closed elementary school in the area. The former elementary school, located within a few minutes’ drive from the ranch, has been transformed into a facility that combines food, experience, and lodging.

Here, visitors can enjoy the beautiful starry sky, the morning air unique to the satoyama surrounded by mountains, and the delicious local sake and regional food culture carefully selected by the Oenosato Nature Farm. The addition of the “lodging” factor to the “food” and “experiences” that have attracted so many people to the facility in the past has made it possible to convey the charm of Oe to an even greater number of people.

To poultry farming in nature

And they are also updating their poultry farming, which is their starting point, through trial and error.
Take feed, for example. We have always used corn, rice bran, seaweed, and other natural ingredients in our formulations to help build the chickens’ bodies. However, as the next phase, we believe it is necessary to change our current dependence on imports of grains, which are the main ingredient of feed.
First, with the cooperation of domestic producers, we have begun growing corn for animal feed in Hokkaido. Also, locally produced feed rice and bamboo charcoal made from bamboo, which is considered a nuisance in the mountains. These are beginning to be used for animal feed. Although costly, Mr. Obara believes that there is always value in going beyond this. Even if it is difficult to get the whole of Japan involved right away, they must first demonstrate the value themselves.

The Future of Oenosato Nature Farm

His efforts to make poultry farming a part of nature are rooted in his strong passion for Oe, where he started his ranch. Mr. Obara hopes to preserve this region for the future by recycling poultry farming and agriculture, and to convey its charms to more people than ever before.
The expansion of the farm is an opportunity to make people aware of this. The initial goal was 300,000 visitors per year, and that goal was achieved in 2018. Currently, they are aiming for 570,000 visitors per year, which is more than the population of Tottori Prefecture.
When it started, no one could have imagined such prosperity. However, Mr. Obara has achieved this much with his passion for poultry farming and his desire to make Oe more prosperous. His vitality will surely be a great force to change the future of poultry farming and the region.

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Komatsu Seed Chicken Farm Ariakeyama Farm, a farm utilizing natural energy

Komatsu Chicken Farm Ariakeyama Farm, a 45,000-square-meter poultry farm located at the foot of the Northern Alps in Azumino City, central Nagano Prefecture, took a new step forward in 2018. The two companies, established in 2012, provide support and consulting services to the agriculture, forestry, and fisheries sectors through the use of solar power and other natural energy sources .

With the aim of improving synergy between the operation of livestock facilities and solar power generation, the chicken coops at Komatsu Seed Chicken Farm Ariakeyama Farm were renovated as part of the company’s “agricultural sharing” business. Solar panels were installed on the entire roof of the chicken coop in line with the company’s decision to implement a 20-year feed-in tariff (FIT) program to promote renewable energy.

The system is such that Hidakaya and Rural Energy, which installed the solar panels, will receive income from the sale of electricity and Komatsu Seed Chicken Farm will receive compensation for providing the land, and the funds will be used to operate the farm.

Although initial costs were incurred to build the new chicken coops, the results of solar power generation in Azumino City, Nagano Prefecture, with its high rate of sunny weather, were more than they had imagined. Perhaps it is because the company is located in Okayama Prefecture, which also boasts a high rate of sunny weather, that they were able to see the odds against this project.

Income from sources other than livestock farming enables more cost-effective rearing

The new chicken house is characterized by the fact that the cage-feeding method used until then has been eliminated, and the chickens are now consistently reared in a flat-feeding system. By thoroughly implementing the “animal welfare” concept of keeping chickens in a comfortable environment, stress on the animals is greatly reduced, and the benefits are reflected in the taste, aroma, and quality of the meat. The benefits are evident in the taste, aroma, and meat quality of the animals. The income from solar power generation is another factor that makes it possible to keep the animals flat, which is more expensive than keeping them in cages in terms of management.

The fact that they now have income from sources other than the livestock business, which was unthinkable before the partnership, has created an environment in which they can spend more money and resources on feed and rearing methods. As a result, the quality of the chicken meat and eggs they produce has improved, and they have been able to meet customers who demand high quality at a high unit price. In addition, the hygiene-controlled, flat-raised chickens cause less odor pollution to the surrounding area, and the agricultural sharing has completed a positive cycle.

What are the characteristics of the original brand of jidori chicken?

Currently, Komatsu Jidorijo Ariakeyama Farm raises approximately 6,000 chickens for food use and 18,000 egg-laying chickens. The farm raises two types of jidori for human consumption: “Bizen Shamo” and “Shinshu Azumino Gundori,” which are the farm’s original brand of jidori. Bizen Gundori is characterized by its resilient and chewy meat and the delicious flavor that overflows every time it is chewed. It was created by crossing the Okazaki Ohan, a brand-name chicken born in Okazaki City, Aichi Prefecture, with the Ryugundori Gorou, a large chicken developed in Tatsuno City, Hyogo Prefecture, which has a strong flavor and elasticity. The Shinshu Azumino Gundori, on the other hand, is attractive for its meat, which is chewy and rich like a jidori chicken, yet does not become so tough even when cooked. The “Red Broiler,” which is an improved version of the broiler breed that accounts for more than 90% of the chicken sold in Japan, was crossbred with several strains of gamecock to enhance its flavor and taste. Both of these products were created with the confidence that the needs and desires of those involved in the poultry industry were taken into consideration.

These two breeds are carefully raised one by one in the rich natural environment of Azumino, where roosters are raised slowly for 110 days after hatching, and hens are raised for 135 days. The standard for broiler chickens is 75 days, and even the standard for fattening up for locally raised chickens is 75 days, so this alone shows how much work goes into raising these chickens. The long time it takes to grow the chickens maximizes their own individual strength and produces chicken meat with a deep flavor.

Taking full advantage of the benefits of the Azumino foothills

The vast site is also used to its advantage in the environment in which the chickens are fattened. In Japan, the Japanese Agricultural Standards require that chickens be kept in a “flat-feeding environment from 28 days of age with no more than 10 birds per square meter” in order to be sold as jidori (locally raised chickens), but the Komatsu chicken farm fattening is conducted in a very relaxed environment with about six birds per square meter. The chickens are allowed to move around freely, and this stress-free physical activity leads to an increase in the elasticity and flavor of the meat. The benefits of the Azumino foothills are also fully utilized in the ingredients that the chickens eat. In particular, water from Azumino, which has been selected as one of the 100 best waters in Japan, directly contributes to the taste of the chicken. For feed, a combination of well-balanced materials is used according to the characteristics and growth speed of each breed of chicken. Chickens raised on high-quality soil, water, and safe feed that benefit from the magnificent natural environment are highly regarded by many people, increasing the brand’s recognition.

Growing Worldwide Recognition of Brand Jidori Chickens

Since the production costs are as high as possible, it is only natural that the selling price is correspondingly higher. It is sometimes traded at the same price as beef. In Japan, chicken is perceived as a less expensive foodstuff compared to beef and pork. It is not easy to get rid of the old image of “beef for special occasions and chicken for special occasions,” but restaurants that mainly serve chicken dishes, such as French and Italian restaurants and Japanese restaurants that serve yakitori (grilled chicken), are gaining worldwide recognition through contests and gourmet guides. It is an undeniable fact that the value of jidori chicken has been increasing as it has received excellent reviews around the world through contests and gourmet guides. The number of branded jidori produced throughout Japan is increasing every year. The number of brand-name jidori produced in Japan is increasing year by year, and it is truly a warring age of jidori. The company’s poultry farming business is not the only pillar of its business, but it is this other pillar that has enabled it to improve the quality of its own brand, and to provide chicken meat that is tailor-made to meet the needs of its clients, such as the amount of fat and the fineness of the meat.

The particular brand of jidori chicken raised using state-of-the-art technology that conflicts with the rich nature of the Azumino foothills will advocate new possibilities for the industry.

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Chicken Ñative to Japan

There are many famous ”jidori” chicken. Of them all, the leading jidori is the ”Hinai Jidori”. The 3 major ”jidori” of Japan are Satsuma Jidori, Nagoya Kochin, and the Hinai Jidori. We visited ”Akita Hinaiya”, which runs many shops and restaurants serving Hinai Jidori to learn about its history and ”great taste”. Hinai Jidori, as the name suggests, is chicken that is bred in the Hinai region in northern Akita. However, ”Hinai chicken” cannot be consumed, as they are very scarce and highly valuable as a chicken native to Japan, to the extent that it is designated as Japan’s National Treasure.

The Birth of the Hinai Jidori

Hinai chicken was originally known for its great taste. (However, it has not been consumed since being designated a National Treasure in 1942.) It was not fit for distribution because of its small size, minimal meat, and its low reproduction rate compared to other types of chicken. To overcome these factors, the Hinai Jidori was created. In order to keep the Hinai chicken’s positive features while raising the reproduction rate, the Road brand chicken was selected from hundreds of chicken at the Akita Livestock Experimental Farm. A male Hinai chicken and a female Road chicken were crossed to create the Hinai Jidori. There are strict requirements that need to be met to be live up to the Hinai Jidori name. For instance, Hinai Jidori must be bred in an environment with less than 5 chicken in 1 square meter after 28 days from hatching. They are certainly specially chosen chicken.

Taste approved by the world

We visited Abe’s Hinai Jidori chicken farm where the chicken are actually bred. According to Abe, the Hinai Jidori has the longest rearing period compared to other chicken brands. For example, the Nagoya Kochin takes 120 days, where the Hinai Jidori takes another month, 150 days for a full rearing period. ”That’s why they need to be kept healthy,” Abe says. The characteristic of Hinai Jidori meat is its savory, full bodied flavor. With a firm scent similar to a pheasant, its flavor spreads the more you chew. It is also a good ingredient for ”nabe”. ”The fat is rich in flavor and therefore the soup is incomparable. The fat is also clear, probably because they get exercise.” ”Is it used in ”kiritanpo nabe”?” Nakata asks, as Akita is famous for ”kiritanpo nabe”. Abe’s reply was ”I don’t really think so, since it’s expensive.” But imagining the clear soup made with Hinai Jidori is truly inviting. Recently, Hinai Jidori is highly praised abroad, and is used in Italian and French cuisine. It is one of the many ingredients that is the pride of Japan.

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Soil is the source of life

Yoshihide Kanno is a farmer who grows crops as well as chicken, operates sustainable agriculture, and regional development in Nagai, Yamagata. When we visited him, he showed us data on the nutrients included in several vegetables like green pepper and asparagus. The amount of such nutrients as vitamin C, calcium, iron and other nutrients had dropped dramatically across the board when compared to the data in 1964 and 2000.
”Today’s vegetables may be better looking on the surface, but they have less nutrients. Vegetables are a reflection of soil. The soil has lost its power.” Kanno told us. It is believed that the power of soil has declined with the use of chemical fertilizers in the 1960s.
Kanno’s idea on agriculture is based on soil. Crop doesn’t grow in sandy soil, nor where it’s purely clay. This is because these things are basically non-organic minerals. But crops can grow in soil. Soil is a collection of dead organisms. That soil is the source of our lives and the lives that are yet unborn. It is necessary to think about the relationship between soil and our lives. He is running a sustainable agriculture where he thinks not just about productivity, but also about how soil affects the crops and the human body that consumes them.

Leaving good environment, health, and universal merit

Kanno is also putting effort into the development of the local community. He told us the motives. “As I was farming, I was gazing at the mountains and realized that our ancestors from three generations or more ago planted trees for future generations. They left us with batons to relay to future generations of the community, and I could find such instances in our paddies and fields, and in the scenery.
Thus he decided that he would continue farming and community service for a better life for his sons and grandsons’ generations. That’s why he started the “Rainbow Plan”.
It involves the placement of bins in the urban areas of Nagai to throw away kitchen garbage, which is collected twice a week, then processed at the compost center, to be used for agriculture in the rural areas, producing and selling crops with reduced chemical fertilizers. Almost all 5000 families in the urban areas participate, they accurately separate their trash for this purpose.
The Rainbow Plan is not just about the recycling of kitchen garbage. The second perspective is about the urban people who make the compost and the people who grow crops becoming involved in farming together. The Rainbow Plan has attracted the interest of many communities around the nation, and many municipalities visit Nagai to learn from this example.

The friendly chicken

When we were shown to the chicken coop, we were greeted by a lively bunch of chicken.
They tend to be in the chicken coop in the morning because it’s their time to lay eggs, but they run around outside all afternoon. They are very healthy. Kanno wanted to build a system where he raises livestock with the crop he grew in the field, then recycles the livestock droppings to compost to grow their feed again. This is called “composite agriculture with livestock” and he had been interested in the idea for a long time. It was when his baby was born, the image of eggs came to his mind. It occurred to him that he wanted his child to grow up eating properly raised eggs. So he started with five hens, which eventually grew to a hundred, then to one thousand.
The type of chicken he now raises are “Boris Brown” which lay brown eggs, and “Momiji” from Goto Hatchery. He sometimes eats their meat too. They are raised slowly, and their meat is firmer than those raised for meat, but they are more flavorful and their bones make great chicken soup, he told us.
The system where the compost from hen droppings are used in rice paddies and the fields, and the waste rice and vegetables as well as weed that comes from farming operations are fed to the hens, is virtually waste free. And it winds up in great tasting eggs laid by healthy hens.
“You know, there is such a thing as universal merit. Like protecting the environment, and eating healthy food. Agriculture has such innate power that contributes to the world like that.” said Kanno. Many young people who aim to engage in agriculture learn about Kanno’s philosophy and activities, and visit him seeking advice. His thoughts and activities are relayed to the next generation in terms of soil, community, and people.

The post Observing agriculture and the community “Yoshihide Kanno, crop and poultry farmer” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Switching from landscaping to animal husbandry

Just as ”sake” has local brands, there are local brands of chicken as well. Chicken such as ”Nagoya Cochin” or ”Miyazaki Jidori” are famous, but Aizu has ”Aizu Jidori”. Kazuhiro Kodaira raises this local chicken for poultry.
Aizu Jidori is said to have originated when a fleeing Heike samurai brought a chicken as a pet which later spread. In recent years, the breed was forced to the brink of extinction. However, several surviving chickens were found in 1987, and the original species have been raised and maintained at the Fukushima Prefecture Poultry Experiment Station.
In order to raise Aizu Jidori and commercialize them for consumption, a certified Poultry Processing Sanitation Supervisor is needed. In their search for the qualified person, they discovered Kodaira, who had studied at the Department of Animal Science at Tokyo Agricultural University. ”I was asked to take on this task because I happened to be qualified.” he told us laughing. He took over the Poultry Processing Facilities in Mishimacho. Eventually, he also began raising the chickens so that he could control the entire process in growing delicious chicken.

Healthy clucking sounds echo throughout

Kodaira showed us the chicken coop. It looked different from what you would imagine from the words ”chicken coop”. It looked more like a plastic greenhouse and looked quite tidy. The inside of the chicken coop was quite simple and clean. We also observed the smaller house where the chicks were boarded, and Nakata commented ”It looks like a sandbox where kids play.”
Something else that caught our attention was the energetic clucking that echoed throughout the chicken coop. When we mentioned this, Kodaira explained his belief toward raising chickens. ”If the chicken are not energetic, it can’t be passed on to us humans.”
In order to create that energy, the chicken coop is only loosely managed, keeping it close to natural as much as possible. While the physical condition of the chicken changes during the cold season and the hot season, the flavor must be maintained throughout the year. We were told that that was quite a challenge.

The ”umami” seems to be everlasting

When asked what kind of poultry he aims to produce, he told us ”meat that overflows with flavor when you chew it”. He made a charcoals fire and let us have a taste for ourselves.
”The sweetness is amazing.”, Nakata and his entourage enjoyed one piece after another. Hearing that comment, Kodaira explained ”That’s the sweetness of the fat”. The characteristics of Aizu Jidori is that sweetness and the ”umami” flavor. The more you chew, the more those flavors overflow in your mouth.
”For many people who do not like chicken meat, it’s the smell they don’t like. Our chicken doesn’t have that smell.” Both the breast and thigh have no dryness and are quite juicy. And most of all, the tastiness overflows when you bite into the meat.

Towards a local chicken that surpasses Japan’s top three chickens

Hearing direct compliments from the customers about how delicious it is brings joy and excitement. The Three Great Japanese Chickens – Hinai-dori, Nagoya Kochin, Miyazaki Jidori. Kodaira shared his strong desire to create a local chicken that surpasses all of them.

The post Raising chicken that surpasses Japan’s Three Greatest Chicken. “Aizu Free Range Chicken Mishimaya, Kazuhiro Kodaira” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

No use of “antibiotics”. Egg making following the example of Europe.

“I didn’t know that there are organic eggs.” Nakata seemed to be surprised. Shigenori Mukaiyama of “Kurofuji Farm” said, “No wonder. There are very few farms that raise poultry by organic farming to get organic eggs.”

Indeed, to get organic eggs, the chickens have to be raised organic. They must be raised in a near-natural environment without any use of antibiotics which are often used to fatten the chickens for meat. It is a lot of hard work.

Kurofuji Farm started organic poultry raising in 2002 according to the World Standard (IFOAM). ”Why did you start organic poultry raising?” ”I’ve looked around many countries, and especially in Europe, organic is already a standard. In Japan, a lot of chemicals are used to make good looking, good tasting products. But the real professional should be able to do it naturally,” so answered Mukaiyama to Nakata’s question.

Use of “chicken droppings” is also a part of environmental cycle. “Natural farming” to think environment as a “whole”.

“In order to do that, not only the feedstuff but the environment is vital. There is the forest, and the water is provided from it. It’s not only the matter of chickens. We use the chicken droppings as manure and for other things, and that kind of circulation is necessary for natural farming.”

As Mukaiyama said, organic farming is not possible without considering the natural environment as a whole. The droppings of the livestock that ate safe feedstuff will become manure, and the manure enriches the soil to produce healthy feed, and the animals that eat the feed will grow healthy. That’s circulation.

In the future, originality will be necessary, also in farming.

Mukaiyama talked passionately about his farming, then he asked Nakata a question. ”Why did you choose to visit us? I am very glad that you chose to come and look at an agricultural business.”” I’ve travelled all over Japan with this project, and I noticed a great difference in the environment in each region. That leads to uniqueness, not only in culture and folklore, but ways of doing agriculture. I find it very interesting.”

“That’s true. Originality is so important for farmers to survive, now and in the future. Fermented food, for example, is a distinct feature in Japanese food culture So, I think we should concentrate more on such things.”

The organic eggs of Kurofuji Farm has a story that the environment and commitment create . This may be the “originality” Mukaiyama talked about.

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Raising Ukokkei in a natural environment

The best selling product at ”Kanazawa Ukkokeian” is ”Ukokkei Castella” made with “ukokkei (silkie fowl) eggs. The castella is not too sweet, moist and very rich.
Learning that ”Kanazawa Ukokkeian” breeds their “ukokkei” in a special way, we requested a visit to their facility. “Ukokkei” are said to be more difficult to breed than chicken, and they also lay fewer eggs. 1 fowl lays only about 40 to 50 eggs a year. Their coop is built adjacent to a bamboo forest and the “ukokkei” are free to roam about, pecking at worms or moving about freely.
The chicks are raised in a clean environment in a separate facility for about 250 days after hatching.
”The feed is all organic, and since we do not feed them any drugs, they need to be kept in a clean environment to avoid disease.” Kawachi, the president told us.

Eggs with a rich and thick flavor

The price of the precious eggs is 500 yen per egg. Nakata treated himself by eating raw on rice. He was surprised at how hard the shell was and how difficult it was to crack. Though the eggs are small, the yolk is large, with the rich “umami” being concentrated in the yolk. This is indeed a lavish treat.
“Ukokkei” eggs have a characteristic of being rich and thick. Therefore when whipped, the egg white becomes very fine and airy, creating a rich flavored smooth-textured castella cake. Besides their famous castella cakes, ”Kanazawa Ukokkeian” also makes both Japanese and Western sweets such as pudding, Baumkuchen, etc. They also sell side dishes made with “ukokkei” eggs and the eggs themselves.
Their products are among one of the favorites as Kanazawa souvenirs, but we highly recommend you have a taste for yourself before giving them all away.

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