Traditional Miwa Somen

Miwa, Nara Prefecture is one of Japan’s leading production centers of somen noodles. Miwa Yamakatsu Seimen Co., Ltd. is located in such a traditional area. The history of somen in Nara Prefecture is long, dating back to about 1,200 years ago. It is said to have originated when people began to make preserved food from flour made from harvested wheat and sacred water from Mt. On the other hand, the origin of “Miwa Yamakatsu Seimen” is said to date back to 1804, when the first generation took up somen noodle making as a side job during the off-season for farmers. From that time to the present day, the sixth generation, Katsuyama Yamashita, has continued to pursue delicious noodles and continues to produce the somen noodles that are still loved today.

How to Select Delicious Somen

So, what should we look for when selecting Somen noodles?

The first point is whether the production method is hand-rolled or machine-made. The machine method involves stretching the dough into a thin sheet and then cutting it into small pieces. On the other hand, hand-pulled somen noodles are made by craftsmen, so many of them have a strong texture. If you are looking for firmness and a smooth texture, you should choose the hand-pulled type.

Next, if you are health-conscious, you may want to choose based on salt, additives, and oil content. In fact, salt and oil are often used in the production process of somen. Because of this, if you end up eating too much without being aware of it, you may end up consuming too much salt. If you want to be deliciously health-conscious, you must also check the salt, oil, and additives.

Miwa Yamakatsu Noodle’s Commitment

Miwa Yamakatsu Seimen produces ” yori ” somen, which is similar to barley rope, the original form of somen. The process begins by layering more than 150 layers of flat noodles to form a round bar. Then, the noodles are twisted like a rope to make them firm. Here at Miwa Yamakatsu Seimen, the process is said to be 15 times more labor intensive than usual. In addition, oil is generally used to prevent the noodles from sticking together when making somen, but Miwa Yamakatsu Seimen does not use any oil at all to preserve the flavor of the flour. This is how the umami and sweetness of the noodles are brought out even more. The taste of these noodles is recognized throughout Japan, and they were served to the heads of state at the G8 Hokkaido Toyako Summit in 2008.

Why not try this traditional hand-pulled, oil-free, delicious somen noodles? It would also be a great gift for the mid-year holiday or as a gift.

The combination of the passion for delicious noodles and the craftsmanship that makes it possible will overturn the image of somen noodles you have had until now.

The post Mr. Katsuyama Yamashita, who preserves the traditional hand-pulled method in Nara, a famous production area of somen noodles/ Sakurai City, Nara Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The history of Inaniwa Udon

Located in the Inaniwa district of Yuzawa City in southern Akita Prefecture, Inaniwa udon originated over 350 years ago when Sato Kiszaemon (later known as Inaniwa Kiszaemon) began producing dried udon noodles in this area, surrounded by the pristine flow of rivers and lush forests of the beautiful Satoyama countryside. It became the official supplier to the Satake clan, the lords of the Akita domain, and has been passed down through generations as a closely guarded secret. Currently, the 16th generation Inaniwa Kiszaemon focuses on preserving tradition by limiting production to a small portion for distribution, ensuring the continuity of the family heritage. Concerned about the potential loss of this tradition due to its secretive nature, the technique of making Inaniwa udon was specially passed down to the second generation Sato Yosuke (now Sato Yosuke Shoten) at the end of the Edo period.

Located in the Inaniwa district of Yuzawa City in southern Akita Prefecture, Inaniwa udon originated over 350 years ago when Sato Kiszaemon (later known as Inaniwa Kiszaemon) began producing dried udon noodles in this area, surrounded by the pristine flow of rivers and lush forests of the beautiful Satoyama countryside. It became the official supplier to the Satake clan, the lords of the Akita domain, and has been passed down through generations as a closely guarded secret. Currently, the 16th generation Inaniwa Kiszaemon focuses on preserving tradition by limiting production to a small portion for distribution, ensuring the continuity of the family heritage. Concerned about the potential loss of this tradition due to its secretive nature, the technique of making Inaniwa udon was specially passed down to the second generation Sato Yosuke (now Sato Yosuke Shoten) at the end of the Edo period.

The secret of the delicious taste of udon noodles made by Sato Yoetsu Honpo

To make Inaniwa udon, you start by mixing plenty of saltwater with wheat flour, kneading and fermenting the dough repeatedly to create the base. Then, you cut it into strips about 3 cm wide and roll them into small logs. The process on the second day, called ‘hand-twisting,’ is what I consider the most important step,” says Sato. Using two hanging rods, the dough is quickly and rhythmically stretched into an “eight” shape while twisting the udon. This hand-twisting process, which involves almost half of the personnel in the entire process of making Inaniwa udon, is crucial. Due to the softness of the dough, which is softened by adding plenty of water, handwork is necessary to twist it. Sato describes Inaniwa udon as similar to fermented foods because it undergoes fermentation at various stages of the process. Indeed, during the dough stage, it is left to ferment for a long time, emitting a sweet aroma reminiscent of bread. The finished noodles, though slightly thinner than typical udon, have a flat cross-section, characteristic of Inaniwa udon. Despite their appearance, they have a remarkably firm texture and chewiness. Adjustments to the moisture and salt content are made based on the day’s humidity and temperature, and the noodles are aged for 3 to 4 days to develop their unique texture and smooth mouthfeel.

At Sato Yoetsu Honke, only domestically harvested wheat, harvested within a year, is used as the raw material for udon. Additionally, all other ingredients such as salt and starch are also domestically sourced. Both the ingredients and the manufacturing process are purely domestic, and this is the essence of Sato’s dedication. It is an indispensable commitment for the udon produced by Sato Yoetsu.

Applying the techniques used to make Inaniwa udon, Sato-san ventured into creating “Inaniwa Chuka” (Chinese-style noodles). Being a ramen enthusiast, he wondered if he could adapt the udon-making techniques to produce Chinese-style noodles. Initially, he experimented with fresh noodles, but during that time, he received advice from a renowned ramen shop owner in Tokyo to utilize the Inaniwa udon technique to make dried noodles instead. Thus, “Inaniwa Chuka” was born. While ramen shops typically use fresh noodles, Sato’s Inaniwa Chuka features straight, dried noodles that are sun-dried for a full two days, retaining the same texture and quality as Inaniwa udon.

Nowadays, the popularity of Inaniwa Chuka is such that specialized ramen shops in Akita City use these noodles. Sato-san envisions opening an eatery in the Inaniwa district that not only offers udon but also ramen, pasta, soba, and other noodle dishes made using the techniques of Inaniwa udon. It’s exciting to see the new noodle products from Sato Yoetsu Honke, born from traditional techniques, continue to evolve in the future.

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Located in Minamishimabara City, Nagasaki Prefecture, one of the largest producers of somen in Japan, Takahashi Ken Somen is a long-established noodle mill that makes hand-pulled somen the old-fashioned way.
The soft and fluffy somen has long been loved by many people for its firmness and refreshing taste.
The company also produces hand-pulled udon noodles and Chinese noodles that incorporate the somen production method.

Nowadays, most “hand-pulled somen” are made by machine. In such an environment, one of the few noodle mills that continue to follow the traditional method of hand-stretching noodles is located in Minamishimabara City, Nagasaki Prefecture, a prime production center of somen noodles. What is the origin of this insistence on “hand-stretching” in today’s increasingly mechanized world?

Soumen stretched by hand and by machine

Do you know that some packages of Soumen you see in stores say only ” Soumen ” and others say ” Hand-Pulled Soumen “? The difference is the production method. Somen” is made from a mixture of wheat flour, salt, and water, rolled out thinly on a roller, cut into thin strips, and dried by a machine, while “hand-rolled somen” is made from the same dough that is “twisted” and stretched into thin strips before being dried. The “hand-pulled somen” is made from the same dough that is “twisted” and then stretched thin and dried. The characteristics of hand-rolled somen are that it is thin, smooth, firm, and does not stretch over time. The reason why the texture of “somen” ( mechanical somen ) is said to be inferior to that of hand-pulled somen is largely due to this difference in the production process.

However, not all “hand-rolled” somen are made by hand. Because it is quicker and more suitable for mass production, most hand-rolled somen noodles in Japan are now made by machine. However, there are a few noodle mills in Minami-Shimabara City, Nagasaki Prefecture, that still “hand-roll” their noodles. Mr. Toru Takahashiof Takahashi Kensaku Noodle Manufacturing continues to follow the “hand-stretching” method.

Minami-Shimabara, once home to more than 700 noodle mills

Minamishimabara has a long history of producing a large number of somen noodles as a subcontractor for Miwa Somen (Nara), and at its peak there were over 700 noodle mills in the area. Shimabara’s natural environment contributed to the production of somen noodles. The fertile soil and mineral-rich water nurtured over many years by the activities of Unzen and Fugendake mountains located in the center of the peninsula. The climate is ideal for wheat cultivation, and wheat cultivation has taken root in this region. The natural salt from the Ariake Sea and the sea breeze have made somen production a part of people’s daily lives, and have further nurtured Minami-Shimabara as a town of somen. Utilizing such somen-making techniques, around the 1950s, the town developed somen as one of its main industries. Today, Minamishimabara boasts approximately 30% of the nation’s market share for hand-rolled somen, and continues to spin its traditions as a top-class somen town. It continues to grow.

A Small Noodle Factory with 160 Years of History

Takahashi Kensaku Noodles also boasts a long history, having been established in 1858. Currently, Toru, the sixth generation of the family, his wife, and son are working hard every day to make the noodles.

Upon entering the factory, one is struck by the sight of the noodles being stretched into thin strips, skillfully using a bamboo stick held in both hands. The scene is breathtaking as the bamboo sticks are inserted between the noodles on the tubes and handled to stretch them as if weaving silk threads. The noodles, which were as thick as a pinky finger at first, quickly become as thin as one millimeter.

Stretching the noodles is a race against time. The quality of the noodles changes depending on the weather, humidity, and temperature of the day, so we have to be careful with the dough we prepare each morning. Toru says. The taste of the noodles is determined by the dough, which is prepared before dawn. The ” kneading ” process, in which carefully selected flour is mixed with salt water, is considered a difficult process even with years of experience, as the mixture is slightly changed according to the weather and humidity of the day.

How to make white and firm somen noodles

Once the dough is kneaded, a thin layer of cooking oil is applied to the surface to prevent the dough from sticking to each other, and the dough is twisted and stretched into a noodle shape. Toru uses medium to strong flour with a slightly higher protein content for his somen. When mixed with water and kneaded, this protein is converted into gluten, which gives the noodles their stickiness and elasticity. The higher the amount of gluten, the more yellowish the color of the dough. The process of kneading the dough and stretching it into layers without cutting it, while aging it over and over again, produces a firm, unbreakable somen noodle, even when it is as thin as 1 mm. Strong flour makes the noodles more firm, but the high protein content and the high gluten content tend to make the noodles yellowish. However, Somen noodles look better when they are white like silky threads, don’t they? That is why we are particular about how to make the color white while strengthening the firmness.

The work of stretching the noodles is the only thing that cannot be matched by hand.

Even if the noodles are firm, they are stretched according to the climate of the day, so they often break due to temperature changes, or the color does not turn out as white as expected. He says, “I’ve been doing this for 45 years, and there are very few days when I get it right. This is the very reason why Toru insists on hand-pulling the dough. I want to leave the kneading of the dough, which can be done better by machines, to the machines,” he says. But in the stretching process, I have to adjust the amount of force I use while watching for changes in the dough. As time goes by, the noodles dry out and become saggy, so they tend to break easily. This stretching process cannot be done by hand, ” says Toru. Repeatedly stretching and binding the dough allows the gluten to pass through to the center of the noodle, resulting in a smooth, smooth texture that cannot be experienced with ordinary somen noodles, a unique firmness, and the indescribable texture that is difficult to break even after boiling.

People who have tried Takahashi Kensaku Noodles’ somen noodles often ask, “Why is it so delicious even though it is made from the same ingredients? Once a customer is attached to a product, he or she stays with it for many years. Once a customer is hooked, he or she will continue to seek out Toru’s somen for many years to come. I think the difference in taste and texture comes from the fact that the noodles are hand-stretched,” he says. I feel that the customers buy my somen because of the fact that I stretch them by hand. Since we are not a machine, there is a limit to how much we can make. Even so, when customers say, “Takahashi-san’s somen is the best,” it makes me feel happy that I have stuck to hand-rolled somen,” he says with a smile.

Bringing Back the Everyday Eating of Boiled Dried Noodles

Recently, the number of people who do not have the custom of boiling dried noodles is increasing. Somen, once a signature product for mid-year and year-end gifts, has seen a decline in demand as the market has shrunk in size in recent years. In addition, the shift to nuclear families and the increase in dual-earner households are encouraging ” short-cooking,” which requires less time and effort to prepare. Rather than boiling dried noodles, cup noodles that can be finished simply by pouring hot water into a cup or frozen noodles that can be heated in a microwave oven are predominant. That kind of scene has been reduced. Such scenes have decreased,” Toru muses.

A Product of Changing Lifestyles

However, the change in lifestyles seems to be bringing unexpected changes to this situation. With more people teleworking and spending more time at home, sales of dried noodles, which are easy to stock, are on the rise. Dried noodles such as somen and pasta, which are easy to season and can be rearranged for enjoyment, are also increasing in popularity due to their satisfying and healthy qualities. At Takahashi Kensaku Noodles, chanpon, udon, ramen, cold Chinese noodles, and other hand-pulled dried noodles are also popular. I want people to know the taste of somen and other dried noodles because they are simple and tasty,” says Tetsusan. I hope you will enjoy the taste,” says Toru. Fold the noodles in half and put them directly into miso soup that has been slightly diluted. Even simple condiments such as green onions are tasty enough, and there are many ways to enjoy them from summer to winter,” he said.

Somen as white as a waterfall

Minamishimabara’s hand-pulled somen used to be a thriving cottage industry. The family is the smallest unit of people in Minamishimabara, and the tradition of making each type of somen has been passed down from generation to generation and continues to this day.

I think it is good that there are so many different types of noodle makers. I think it is good that there are so many different kinds of noodle makers. But at the moment, I don’t need a machine. My son, who makes somen noodles with me, says, ‘I like the way things are now. I don’t mind if at least one such somen shop remains,” says Toru, narrowing his eyes.

The name of their signature product, Shirataki, is derived from their predecessor’s wish to “make somen noodles as white and straight as a waterfall. Toru, who has inherited these ideas, is also looking straight ahead. It takes a lot of time and effort. But as long as there are people who say, ‘Takahashi-san’s somen is the best,’ I will continue to make somen with pride in this method.

Our hand-pulled somen noodles are as white as silk and have a fluffy texture, strong firmness, and a smooth, refreshing feel. Inheriting traditional techniques, we work slowly and carefully without being constrained by time, depending on the day’s climate. Please enjoy our traditional hand-pulled somen, one of the few traditional “Shimabara Teben Somen”.

The post Minami-Shimabara Takahashi Ken Somen, a small somen noodle shop that continues to adhere to the true “hand-pulled” style / Minami-Shimabara City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

1 of the 3 major “udon” noodles of Japan

The 3 major ”udon” noodles of Japan are said to be the ”Inaniwa udon” of Akita, ”Sanuki udon” of Shikoku and ”kishimen” of Nagoya. The characteristics of Inaniwa udon is that it’s texture is smooth yet firm and the more you chew, the more you will be able to savor it. Inaniwa udon first came to be at the beginning of the Edo period. It is said that Sato Ichibei who lived in Ozawa, Inaniwa village under the rule of the Akita clan (current Ozawa Inaniwamachi Yuzawa-City) started to make dry udon using local flour. It was so good he soon became purveyor to the Akita clan. Back then, it was too expensive for commoners. It became known as a speciality of Akita after the Meiji period. It has since received many awards across the country, and is now considered a leading food item of Akita.

“Air” creates the unique texture

We visited Sato Yosuke Shoten and learned how to make Inaniwa udon. Ordinarily, Inaniwa udon is made over a span of 3 days. First the flour is kneaded with salt water. Takahashi, the factory manager, said that the amount of salt is never the same and is adjusted according to the humidity and temperature. When in doubt, he touches his earlobes to remind him of the ideal texture of the dough. The key to creating good dough is to knead in as much air as you can, eventually creating the firm, strong texture of the udon. It is then stretched out long, all by hand, as though twisting rope and here too, Nakata gives it a try. He tries stretching the udon and hanging it over 2 poles. While admitting the task was difficult, Nakata surprises the factory manager with his graceful moves. Takahashi repeatedly remarked on how he couldn’t believe it was Nakata’s first try. The stretched out udon is then left to dry. ”This entire procedure is done by instinct. That’s why it cannot be made anywhere else.” Takahashi commented.

Hot Inaniwa udon

Finally, we feasted on the udon. Although it was said to have spread after the Meiji period, the recipe was never revealed to the public, and the secret recipe was handed down within the family. Distribution routes were therefore limited to dedication to the Imperial Palace, but in 1972, when the manufacturing method was made public, it spread quickly.
We had hot udon. Perhaps the cold inaniwa udon is more commonly known, but hot Inaniwa udon was just as good. It was so good we enjoyed every little mouthful.
One of the leading food items of Akita, the Inaniwa udon. A culture accredited to masterful craftsman.

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