Pineapple fields stretch across the rolling hills overlooking the sea. Located on the east coast of northern Okinawa Island, Higashi Village in Kunigami District is the home of “Gold Barrel,” a premium pineapple that accounts for just 5% of Japan’s total production. What is the story behind the “King of Pineapples”—the Gold Barrel—and the aspirations of its young growers?

The History of Pineapple Cultivation in Okinawa Prefecture

Okinawa Prefecture accounts for nearly 100% of Japan’s domestic pineapple production, with an annual harvest of approximately 7,000 to 8,000 metric tons. It is said that pineapple cultivation began in 1866 when seedlings washed ashore from a Dutch ship that had run aground off the coast of Ishigaki Island. After World War II, when cultivation and breed improvement for canning began in earnest, pineapples grew to become one of the two major staple crops alongside sugarcane by the 1960s.

However, the once-thriving pineapple industry suffered a major blow with the liberalization of canned product imports in 1990, and cultivation of the Hawaiian variety “N67-10”—which had been the mainstay for processing—began to decline.

Shift to high-value-added varieties for fresh consumption

Although pineapple cultivation had declined at one point, Okinawa Prefecture is shifting toward growing high-value-added varieties intended for fresh consumption. Today, the prefecture produces “Snack Pine” (official name: Bogor Pine), which can be torn apart by hand and eaten as a snack, the small, white-fleshed “Peach Pine” (official name: Soft Touch), the intensely sweet “Sandolce” (official name: Okino P17), the “White Coco” (official name: Okino P19) with its coconut-like aroma, and the premium “Gold Barrel” (official name: Gold Barrel Pine). These and many other fresh-eating varieties have been developed and are now being cultivated, steadily expanding their market share.

The Birth of the Premium “Gold Barrel” Pineapple

“Gold Barrel,” registered as a new variety in 2006, originated in Higashimura. It was developed over a period of approximately 20 years from a seedling obtained in 1989 at the Okinawa Prefectural Agricultural Research Center by crossing “Cream Pine” and “McGregor ST-1.” The variety was named for its golden-colored flesh and barrel-like shape.

The most distinctive feature of Gold Barrel is its high sugar content. While the sugar content of typical pineapples ranges from 14 to 16 degrees, Gold Barrel has a much higher sugar content of 17 to 19 degrees. Furthermore, the fruit is so tender that even the core is edible, and it has less of the characteristic sharp tartness typical of pineapples. When you take a bite, it’s melt-in-your-mouth tender and juicy, and because it has very little fiber, it doesn’t leave a gritty texture in your mouth. With its refined sweetness and rich aroma, and weighing approximately 1.5 to 2 kg per fruit, it has gained attention as a premium pineapple for gift-giving.

Tadao Tamaki, the creator of “Gold Barrel”

Tadao Tamaki of Tamaki Farm—a pioneer in pineapple cultivation in Higashimura and an Honorary Agricultural Advisor for Okinawa Prefecture—played a pivotal role in the creation of this new variety. Starting with 11 frail seedlings he had received, Mr. Tamaki repeatedly selected and nurtured them, and through many years of effort and research, he cultivated “Gold Barrel” into a truly golden-hued fruit.

Among the “Gold Barrel” pineapples Mr. Tamaki grows himself, those that are particularly exceptional in terms of taste, color, size, and shape are named “TADAO GOLD.” Known as the highest-grade variety of “Gold Barrel,” they are selected from only a few percent of the total crop.

The Legacy of Pineapple Farming

Yoshiyuki and Kie Shinzato, who run “Shinzato Fruit Farm” in Higashimura, are the next generation of growers who learned the ins and outs of Gold Barrel cultivation from Mr. Tamaki, who has devoted over 50 years to pineapple farming.

Kie is Mr. Tamaki’s daughter, and she had watched him grow pineapples since she was a child. However, it wasn’t until she entered the workforce that she realized just how remarkable her father’s pineapples were. She says it was after she started working as a pastry chef in Naha City.

Nearly 20 years ago, the pineapples her workplace was sourcing turned out to be Gold Barrel varieties grown by her father. She heard rumors from people around her that “TADAO GOLD” was famous for its delicious taste, and that’s when she realized just how exceptional they were. Thinking, “This might not be a job anyone can do,” she began working side by side with Yoshiyuki—who was born and raised on a part-time mango farm in Nanjo City—to take on the challenge of growing Gold Barrel pineapples.

Gold Barrel, Grown on the Land of Higashimura

Higashi Village, home to Shinzato Orchard, is not only one of the prefecture’s leading pineapple-producing areas but is also known as “Yanbaru,” a region where rich natural landscapes—including mangrove forests—and unique ecosystems remain well-preserved. In the vast fields where patches of red soil peek through, pineapples that have grown to about waist height stand densely planted in neat rows.

Higashimura’s red soil and climate, ideal for pineapple cultivation

One reason pineapple cultivation thrives in Higashimura is the acidic, well-drained red clay soil that pineapples prefer most. Additionally, the terrain allows minerals from the sea to seep into the soil, and summer temperatures range from 30 to 35 degrees. These conditions produce pineapples with high sugar content.

Soil preparation that capitalizes on the advantages of this soil is a crucial factor in pineapple cultivation.

Soil preparation begins by using a power shovel to till the soil to a depth of about 1 meter. Since water is the pineapple’s arch-enemy, this process creates air pockets in the soil, improving drainage. The tilled soil is then left to rest for three months, exposed to natural rainfall to allow moisture and minerals to permeate the soil while incorporating air, helping it regain its vitality. This process also prevents problems such as stunted growth caused by continuous cropping.

And apparently, the most important aspect of soil preparation is weed control. “My father-in-law tells me most often not to let the weeds grow,” says Yoshiyuki. To prevent an infestation of scale insects, they don’t use machines for weeding—they pull them out almost entirely by hand. This labor-intensive and time-consuming approach to soil preparation ultimately contributes to the flavor of the pineapples.

From Planting to Growth to Harvest

Pineapple planting is generally divided into two main periods: spring (March and April) and summer (September and October). Spring planting is timed so that the roots can establish themselves before the rainy season begins in late May. Summer planting is scheduled while monitoring typhoon conditions to ensure the planted seedlings do not rot due to rain.

Once the fruit has grown to a certain size, each one is covered with a hat made of newspaper to protect it from sunburn, and then covered with netting to block strong ultraviolet rays, thereby preventing the skin from burning and spoiling. Additionally, since the large, heavy “Gold Barrel” variety can have its stems snapped by strong typhoon winds, pipes are installed to support the stems.

Gold Barrel pineapples, which are grown with great care in an environment optimized for the crop, are finally ready for harvest approximately three years after the seedlings are planted. Since pineapples generally do not continue to ripen after harvest, they are allowed to ripen on the plant and harvested at the peak of their flavor. As harvest time approaches, the ripeness of each fruit is checked daily, and ripe ones are harvested by hand.

Carrying Dreams in a Gold Barrel

Shinzato Orchard harvests approximately 9,000 pineapples annually. While standard pineapples can be harvested twice in four years, the Gold Barrel variety yields only once every three years. Despite being a difficult variety to cultivate—with limited yields and susceptibility to disease—the growers spare no effort, meticulously preparing the soil and waiting for the fruit to ripen on the tree before picking it at the peak of flavor.

That said, it is this meticulous work that produces the Gold Barrel—a pineapple that is tender right down to the core and boasts a rich, fragrant aroma. “My father-in-law conducts research every day and continues to incorporate new techniques even though he’s over 80. I’m young, but I still can’t keep up with him,” says Yoshiyuki humbly.

While absorbing techniques and knowledge from Mr. Tamaki, he is eager to expand production by gradually increasing the acreage of Gold Barrel—a variety that is difficult to grow and has unstable yields—with the goal of eventually achieving a stable harvest of 12,000 to 13,000 fruits.

Meanwhile, Kie is focused on establishing a shipping system. Gold Barrel, which is allowed to ripen on the tree, has a shelf life of just three days after harvest. The process of polishing each pineapple individually with a cloth and packing them by hand into boxes can take up to 22 hours during peak harvest season. However, they hope to streamline this process by adopting new systems—such as machinery—so they can devote even more time and effort to growing the pineapples.

The couple currently donates their harvested pineapples regularly to local elementary schools and children’s homes. This stems from their desire to change people’s “assumptions” about pineapples: “When we were children, we thought it was normal for pineapples to be a little sour. However, depending on the variety and cultivation methods, they can become this sweet. We want children to know that pineapples are sweet and delicious, and we want to change what people take for granted about pineapples.”

Just as Mr. Tamaki nurtured golden fruits from 11 frail seedlings, that passion and expertise are now being passed on to the next generation. The Gold Barrel pineapples, rooted in the red soil of Higashi Village, will continue to bear sweet fruit, carrying the dreams of these two men.

The post The Challenge of the Second-Generation Owner of “Shinzato Orchard,” Aiming for the Top of the Gold Barrel / Higashi Village, Kunigami District, Okinawa Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Nestled in the mountains of Hita City, Oita Prefecture, “Houkouen” has been growing pears for 70 years. Tomomi Nakama, the third-generation owner, is dedicated to preserving the sweet, juicy pears nurtured by the land’s vitality and her unwavering commitment to “sharing delicious food with her customers.”

“Hita Pears Throughout the Seasons”

In the northwestern part of Oita Prefecture, in the inland region of Kyushu bordering Fukuoka and Kumamoto, lies a town called Hita. Nestled deep within a basin surrounded by mountains, this area has long been blessed with abundant water and, due to its proximity to the headwaters of the Chikugo River, has been called the “Land of Water.” During the Edo period, it flourished as a territory directly administered by the shogunate, and even today, its historic streetscape and hot springs—which retain traces of that era—welcome visitors. In Hita, with its abundant natural beauty, there is a popular local product: pears.

Tomomi Nakama of “Houkouen” is the third-generation pear grower who has devoted his heart and soul to pear cultivation in this region. Driven by the single-minded desire to “share with customers the delicious fruits I enjoy eating myself,” his pear farming has attracted many repeat customers and garnered such strong support that he receives inquiries every year asking, “Are they ready yet?”

Houkouen began growing pears about 70 years ago, during the generation of Mr. Nakama’s grandfather. Mr. Nakama himself began working at his family’s farm immediately after graduating from college. “I always thought I would take over the business,” she explains. Having become involved in the family business at a young age, Mr. Nakama continues to dedicate herself to the unique art of pear cultivation specific to this region.

A region where various natural conditions make it ideal for pear cultivation

When it comes to pear-producing regions, Tottori and Chiba Prefectures are the first to come to mind. In terms of production volume by prefecture, Oita Prefecture ranks around 10th. However, in Hita City, a variety of pear cultivars are grown that can be shipped from late July through around December, and the local JA Pear Committee promotes this rich selection under the slogan “Hita Pears All Year Round.”

So why is it possible to grow such high-quality pears in Hita City? When I asked Mr. Nakama, he replied, “It’s the power of the land.”

Located in a basin, Hita City experiences significant temperature differences between morning and evening, with nighttime temperatures sometimes dropping to 12–13 degrees during the summer. The lower the nighttime temperature, the more sugar the fruit can store from what it has accumulated during the day. This is why areas with large temperature fluctuations are said to be ideal for fruit production. Then there’s the water. Hita City, blessed with both high-quality water and abundant water supply—so much so that it’s known as the “Land Polished by Water”—provides the perfect conditions for pear cultivation. And then there’s the soil. This region’s red clay soil, rather than sandy soil, has the ability to retain nutrients, serving as the foundation for a bountiful harvest. Temperature differences, water, and soil.

It is the convergence of these three elements that gives rise to Hita’s pears.

At Houkouen, we currently cultivate six main varieties for shipment: starting with Kosui, followed by Houzui, Shinko, Akizuki, Atago, and Okusan-kichi. In particular, the late-ripening Okusan-kichi was once cultivated throughout Japan, but because it is labor-intensive to grow, the number of producers has plummeted. As a result, it now accounts for less than 1% of total pear production, with the vast majority reportedly grown in Oita Prefecture. While Okusan-kichi has a moderate acidity, consumers have recently shown a preference for sweeter varieties with less acidity, and these changing times are reflected in the selection of varieties.

While trying to figure out what the pear tree wants,

“I look at the tree and try to determine whether it needs water or nutrients—similar to the supplements people take,” says Nakama. “I consider what to do while assessing these factors.”

Pear saplings begin to bear fruit little by little around their third year after planting. They bloom around the same time as cherry blossoms, and the sight of seven or eight blossoms opening from a single branch resembles the way cherry blossoms bloom. Harvests peak when the trees are about 20 years old, and although yields decline gradually thereafter, some trees are said to continue bearing fruit even after they are over 100 years old. To ensure the fruit grows large and firm, and to transform the sugars produced through photosynthesis into sweetness, there is no alternative but to constantly watch over the orchard and the trees, applying meticulous care at every step. It is this accumulation of time and effort that yields sweet pears.

The key is soil preparation

At Houkouen, we use organic fertilizers such as compost mixed with cow manure and sawdust, as well as fish meal and rapeseed oil cake. Continued use of these materials softens the soil, improves drainage, and promotes the healthy growth of microorganisms. While chicken manure compost is another option, we have chosen cow manure compost because it has a long-term effect on the soil, whereas chicken manure compost, though it provides immediate results, does not last as long.

Furthermore, instead of using herbicides on weeds growing in the fields, they are cut with machinery. This allows earthworms to thrive in the soil, and their castings provide organic matter that serves as food for microorganisms. Additionally, as the earthworms move around, they aerate the soil, promoting the decomposition of organic matter by microorganisms. In this way, living, fertile soil is created.

However, Mr. Nakama notes that even in this region, where various conditions for pear cultivation are ideal, there are still challenges that must be addressed.

Challenges Facing Pear Cultivation

When asked about the challenges they face in pear cultivation, three answers emerged: climate change, tree diseases, and labor shortages.

As for the climate, temperatures have been high in recent springs, causing pear trees to bloom earlier. The flowering period is the most delicate stage; if a late frost occurs at this time, the pistils turn black and wither, potentially preventing fruit from setting. Excessively hot summers, prolonged periods of rain, and then sudden, heavy downpours in a short span of time. The weather in recent years has become increasingly unpredictable, further exacerbating conditions that weaken the trees. Mr. Nakama confides that while he adapts flexibly by monitoring the weather to adjust fertilization and water management, it remains quite challenging.

Tree diseases are another source of concern. As a result of repeated breeding efforts to improve flavor, there are now more varieties that are susceptible to disease. He considered switching to organic farming, in line with global trends in agriculture, but had a bitter experience when he tried it with pears: disease spread rampantly, and the effects lingered for several years. He says he struggles to strike the right balance between using pesticides and ensuring safety.

And then there’s the labor shortage. Houkouen is no exception. Typically, pears grow about 180 cm above the ground. This means workers must keep their faces and hands raised the entire time they’re working, placing a considerable strain on their necks, shoulders, and lower backs. In the past, they could rely on local seniors and housewives who would come during peak season, but now there’s no one left to turn to. Currently, they’re managing by relying on a few local residents and bringing in workers from outside the prefecture only during peak season.

Changing the way trees are pruned to reduce the burden on workers

Faced with a workforce largely made up of inexperienced workers, Mr. Nakama changed the way the trees were pruned. “Normally, trees grow upward. However, if you bend the branches down at an angle of about 30 to 40 degrees, the fruit will grow at a slightly lower height than before. When the fruit grows at a height of about 90 cm, it makes the work easier even for inexperienced workers.”

He is shifting toward a cultivation method that allows anyone to harvest the fruit. While keeping costs down, he is also considering the future introduction of harvesting robots. Mr. Nakama is steadily exploring a path that will allow the operation to function even without human labor.

As demand for fruit continues to decline year after year,

Along with labor shortages, Mr. Nakama is facing a decline in demand for the fruit itself. For pears in particular, the fact that they must be peeled before eating is a major hurdle. While many people say they “like pears,” that doesn’t necessarily translate into purchases. He has noticed that younger generations, in particular, simply aren’t buying them; in fact, whether in stores or through online sales, about 70 percent of buyers are in their 50s or older. While varieties like Shine Muscat—which can be eaten with the skin on and have no seeds—are gaining popularity, demand for fruits that require extra effort to prepare is declining, partly due to their status as luxury items. This is Mr. Nakama’s analysis.

As a solution to this problem, Mr. Nakama is working to broaden the appeal of pears.

To Convey the Charm of Pears

In addition to selling fresh pears, Houkouen also handcrafts processed products such as juice, jam, and dried fruit. Although they can’t produce large quantities, these items are very popular because they allow people to enjoy the delicious taste of pears year-round. “Making these processed products is kind of like a hobby,” Mr. Nakama says with a laugh, but behind those words lies a sincere desire to share the appeal of pears with as many people as possible.

Among these products, “pear vinegar” is particularly unique. As the name suggests, it is vinegar made from pears. It was born from a simple idea: “If wine can be turned into balsamic vinegar, why not pears?” These unusual products have garnered a good reputation, leading to increased media coverage of Houkouen. When exhibiting at events, she brings both fresh pears and processed products. Some people choose the juicy pears, while others reach for the processed items—each person discovers the pears in their own way. Nakama says that every time she sees this, she realizes that the appeal of pears is gradually spreading.

For the Future of Pear Cultivation

Although there are currently about 100 pear farms in Hita, that number continues to decline year by year. One reason for this is that the generation that experienced a period about 15 years ago—when prices hit rock bottom to the point where farmers could no longer make a living from market sales alone—is no longer passing the business down to their children. Mr. Nakama himself has a son, but he doesn’t feel strongly that his son must take over the farm. “When I’m old enough to retire, if there’s someone who wants to take over, I’ll hand it over to them”—that is his honest sentiment. That is precisely why he is steadily continuing his efforts to adapt his cultivation methods so that production and harvesting can be managed even without ample labor or experience.

No one knows at this point what the future holds for pears. Nevertheless, with an eye on the future, Mr. Nakama continues to tend to his pears day after day. “As long as people say they’ll miss pears if they become scarce, I’ll keep going. I can’t let down the expectations of customers who buy them because they’re ‘delicious,’ so I’ll never cut corners.”

“Hita pears, all year round.” A key part of this tradition is the presence of farmers like Mr. Nakama, who pour their hearts into pear cultivation. For the sake of those eagerly awaiting this year’s pears, Mr. Nakama stands in his Hita orchard once again today.

The post “I want to broaden our reach and share the appeal of pears with as many people as possible.” Tomomi Nakama of “Houkouen” / Hita City, Oita Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Aomori Prefecture is known as Japan’s leading apple-producing region, accounting for approximately 60% of the nation’s total apple output. Within the prefecture, about 50 varieties are cultivated, primarily including “Fuji” apples, which offer a good balance of sweetness and tartness, and “Tsugaru” apples, which are juicy and tender.To maintain apple yields, pest and disease control measures and breed improvement are essential. The research for these efforts is conducted by the “Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center Apple Research Institute” (hereinafter referred to as the Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center Apple Research Institute), located in Kuroishi City, Aomori Prefecture. This facility has become indispensable to apple farmers in Aomori Prefecture.

A facility that supports and safeguards the quality of apples within the prefecture

It is said that apples originated in the region stretching from the Tianshan Mountains in China to the Caucasus region of Russia. From there, apples spread to Greece, Rome, Europe, and eventually to America. Around that time, the Meiji government in Japan imported saplings of various fruit trees from abroad and distributed them nationwide. At the time, apples were mainly imported from the United States, France, and the United Kingdom, and the saplings distributed to this prefecture were American apple varieties suitable for fresh consumption.This marked the beginning of apple cultivation in Aomori Prefecture, with a focus on apples for fresh consumption. In particular, the Tsugaru region—including Kuroishi City and Hirosaki City in the western part of the prefecture—is well-suited for apple cultivation due to its cool climate and significant temperature differences between day and night, which enhance the fruit’s sugar content.

However, as cultivation expanded from the 1890s onward, diseases and pests made harvesting difficult, leading to an increase in farmers abandoning their orchards. Consequently, to ensure effective pest and disease control, the “Heika (Apple) Experiment Station”—meaning “apples introduced from the West”—was established in 1931.In 2009, it was renamed the “Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center Apple Research Institute,” and in addition to pest and disease control, it also conducts research on developing new varieties.

Sharing research results with farmers to ensure a consistent annual harvest  

The Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center Apple Research Institute is located in the lush natural environment of Kuroishi City, Aomori Prefecture, and owns 24.8 hectares of farmland on its premises.“Here, we cultivate a wide variety of apples—including ‘Fuji,’ ‘Ohrin,’ and ‘Jonagold,’ which are in high demand among consumers and have high cultivation rates (in fact, we grow hundreds of varieties). We conduct year-round research on tree conditions, fruit set, pesticide application, and the timing of pest outbreaks, and by sharing these results with farmers, we help ensure stable yields,” says Director Noriaki Fukuda.

They quantify factors such as temperature fluctuations, precipitation, hours of sunshine, and snowfall, and conduct detailed research on leaf fall, budding, growth conditions, ripening progress, and quality. “Since the climate varies even within the prefecture, we conduct surveys for each region. It’s painstaking work, but it’s very important research,” he says. It is precisely because of this detailed data that they can accurately convey apple cultivation methods to farmers.

Apple cultivation involves pruning during the winter while considering sunlight exposure, and limiting the number of flowers in the spring when they bloom. This process ensures that each apple receives sufficient nutrients. Then, in the fall, leaves touching the fruit are removed, and the fruit is rotated—a process called “tama-mawashi”—to expose it evenly to sunlight, resulting in a uniform red color throughout. By carefully performing these maintenance tasks, they are able to achieve a consistent harvest every year.

Efforts to reduce pesticide use while combating pests

“It is said that pests and diseases are the biggest weakness of apples, making pesticide-free cultivation very difficult. Of course, we support farmers who wish to reduce pesticide use, but due to factors like global warming, we are now seeing insects and diseases that were previously unseen, so reducing pesticide use is not easy,” he explains the current situation.

He explains that the most troublesome pests include “spider mites,” which parasitize leaves and inhibit photosynthesis, and the “peach fruit moth,” which burrows into the fruit. Since damage from these pests renders the fruit unsellable, they are the farmers’ worst enemies. While pesticides and mating disruption are the primary control methods, Mr. Fukuda notes that a major current problem is the persistence of infestation sources due to the increasing number of neglected orchards—left unmanaged because of an aging population and a shortage of workers.

Continuing research on pesticides that can withstand diseases previously unseen

Research is also being conducted on disease control, not just pest control.In addition to measures against “black spot disease”—which causes mold growth, cracks, and deformities—he notes that due to global warming, diseases previously unseen in Aomori Prefecture are now emerging. These include “brown spot disease,” which causes premature leaf drop and weakened tree vigor; as well as “anthracnose” and “ring spot disease,” which rot the fruit—diseases that were once only found in warmer regions.

Since diseases can change depending on the climate and other factors, relying on the same measures all the time can lead to pesticides becoming ineffective. Therefore, it is necessary to continue researching which pesticides work against specific diseases and when and how often to spray them effectively—making this a never-ending battle.

Efforts to Address the Shortage of Successors

“We are undertaking various initiatives to prevent the number of neglected orchards from increasing,” explains the Apple Research Institute. To make it easier for new farmers to enter the industry, the institute has created an “Apple Pest and Disease Control Calendar” that clearly outlines pesticide application schedules and pest and disease control measures. This calendar has been well-received even by veteran farmers and has reportedly become an indispensable tool for apple growers.

Additionally, to help the general public feel more connected to apples and to encourage new entrants into the industry, the institute holds an annual “Apple Research Institute Open House.” To foster interest in both the local area and the fruit, the event features public tours of the farmland, exhibitions of research findings, and consultations on fruit tree cultivation. “We’d be delighted if even a few more people became interested in apple farming and felt inspired to try it themselves,” they say with hope.

Meeting standards for taste and cultivation methods, and taking on the challenge of breeding varieties for the next generation

There are many apple varieties, and currently, “Fuji” is the best-selling variety, followed by “Tsugaru,” “Jonagold,” and “Ohrin,” with these four varieties accounting for about 80% of the market. Driven by the desire to “create the next big hit apple,” a new variety called “Benihatsumi” was developed in recent years. It is characterized by a rich flavor and a tart aftertaste.

Developing a new variety involves comprehensively evaluating factors such as firmness, acidity balance, and juice content. Mr. Fukuda expresses his enthusiasm for “Benihatsumi,” which took many years to perfect, stating that he aims to increase the number of growers and expand consumption. The Apple Research Institute conducts a wide range of activities, including research on cultivation techniques and pests and diseases, as well as providing guidance to farmers.Apple research is often highly detailed, and the results that can be produced in a single year are limited. However, these research findings are indispensable information for apple farmers and serve as a foundation for the next generation. Currently, efforts are underway to develop new varieties that are resistant to climate change and disease, so anticipation is growing for what delicious apples will be born in the future.

The post The “Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center Apple Research Institute,” which supports apple farmers in Aomori / Kuroishi City, Aomori Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Located in Iizaka-machi, Fukushima City, “Momiyama Orchard” produces cherries, peaches, and apples. Kazuhiro Momiyama, the fifth-generation owner of this long-established orchard—which has been in operation since the 1890s—continues to produce superior fruit through relentless curiosity and daily research, including a commitment to natural soil cultivation.His wife, Tomomi, runs a farm stand and café that sells fresh fruit and original processed goods from the orchard, promoting the appeal of Fukushima’s prized fruits. “Nothing makes us happier than hearing people say our peaches and apples are delicious,” the couple smiles, their hearts united in this shared passion.

An Orchard and Family Bonds Passed Down Since the Meiji Era

Fukushima City offers high-quality fruit throughout the four seasons: strawberries in spring, cherries in early summer, peaches in summer, pears and grapes in autumn, and apples in early winter. Located in a basin surrounded by the Azuma Mountain Range and the Abukuma Highlands, the area enjoys a blessed climate that allows for the cultivation of both cold-climate and warm-climate fruits. Through continuous breeding improvements and technological innovations, a wide variety of fruits thrive here.

Located along the so-called “Fruit Line,” a stretch lined with such orchards, is “Yotsuba no Clover FARMERS GARDEN,” the direct sales shop and café of Momiyama Orchard. The pure white building, blending gently into the idyllic landscape, is particularly striking.

Matsuyama Orchard, a long-established orchard with a history spanning over 100 years since the 1890s, is located in Iizaka Town, Fukushima City, where dozens of orchards are scattered. They cultivate cherries, peaches, and apples, and Kazuhiro, the fourth-generation owner and son of the founder, has even received the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award.“Since I grew up hearing my father repeatedly say, ‘Farming is great,’ I had no hesitation whatsoever about taking over the family business,” Kazuhiro says with a smile. After graduating from university, he spent a year training as an intern at the Fukushima Prefectural Agricultural Comprehensive Center’s Fruit Tree Research Institute, and took over the family business at the age of 23.

Premium fruit nurtured by the temperature fluctuations unique to the basin

Fukushima is widely recognized as the “Fruit Kingdom.” Fukushima peaches are characterized by their bright red color, the result of abundant sunlight, and their high sugar content. Due to the significant temperature difference between day and night, sugar accumulates well in the fruit, making it easy to grow peaches with a strong sweetness. While Fukushima ranks second in the nation for peach production, it is by far the top consumer of peaches nationwide. In fact, residents of Fukushima Prefecture consume more than seven times the national average.

In Fukushima City, a wide variety of peaches are grown from late June to late September, and at Momoyama Orchard, we cultivate over a dozen different varieties in succession.Starting with the early-ripening “Hatsuhime,” followed by “Gyosei,” “Akatsuki,” and “Madoka,” and ending with the late-ripening “Yuzora” and “Sakura Hakuto,” this relay of diverse peach cultivation delivers the delicious flavors of the season.

Fukushima’s signature peach, “Akatsuki”

In the past, while many prefectures gave up on cultivating “Akatsuki” because they couldn’t overcome a single flaw during trial cultivation, only Fukushima Prefecture persisted without giving up and successfully overcame that flaw. Today, it has become a nationally recognized variety that represents Fukushima peaches.

“Thanks to the perseverance of the people of Fukushima, it has grown to its current size, and ‘Akatsuki’ is now synonymous with Fukushima,” Kazuhiro says with a smile. With its vibrant color, juiciness, and superb balance of sweetness and acidity, “Akatsuki” is popular as a mid-summer gift and for other occasions. We aim to harvest it every year just before Obon (late July to early August).

Rich in Minerals: Naturally Derived Soil Management

Kazuhiro, who tends to the fruit with love alongside his father, Kazuhiro, and with the help of part-time workers, speaks calmly: “I firmly believe in never compromising on our work.” He also focuses on natural soil cultivation, spreading crushed oyster shells from the Sanriku region—rich in minerals—onto the soil to harness the power of microorganisms, creating an eco-friendly approach.

Spring work begins with “bud thinning,” which involves reducing the number of buds before they bloom, cutting the total down from 100% to about 30%. This is followed by “fruit thinning,” where unwanted fruit is removed while the fruit is still small. Fruit thinning—removing fruit while it is young—is an essential step for producing high-quality fruit. Furthermore, he places great importance on maintaining healthy trees through winter pruning.

Delivering the Season’s Freshest Flavors Through a Variety of Peaches

You may have seen fruit in orchards covered with bags (or “skirts”). These are placed by hand, one by one, to protect the fruit from “rain burn”—a condition where the fruit splits open when heavy rain falls suddenly after a prolonged period of dry weather that has left the soil overly dry. By the time the fruit begins to color, the bags (skirts) are removed to allow sunlight to reach the fruit and promote coloring.Since the fruit won’t turn red all over unless it receives even light, a light-reflecting sheet is placed underneath. “The parts covered by leaves are particularly slow to color, so if you cut the leaves in half occasionally, they’ll start to color in about two days,” he explained.

Peaches turn red starting from the tip, and each variety reaches peak ripeness in about 10 days to two weeks.

Apparently, the ones with a vivid red color are sweeter and tastier. By performing these tasks in sequence, the relay of cultivating multiple peach varieties is completed. One of the real pleasures is savoring and comparing the various peach varieties harvested in season.

“My personal recommendation is ‘Yuzora.’ Compared to other varieties, it’s difficult to grow because it experiences a lot of physiological drop—where the fruit falls off naturally—but the flesh is dense, juicy, and smooth, making it incredibly delicious,” says Kazuhiro. He also recommends it for those who prefer firmer peaches.

Growing Delicious Fruit and Passing Agriculture on to the Future

Kazuhiro’s current challenges include taking on new challenges in fruit tree cultivation with an eye toward the future, and addressing labor shortages caused by the aging workforce in the orchard. “Since determining the optimal harvest time requires extensive experience, I handle the harvesting myself, except when my father helps out.” He is acutely aware of the difficulties in implementing IoT technology in an orchard, where years of experience and skilled techniques are essential.

“I’m thinking of reducing the cultivation area slightly in the future so I can focus more on each individual tree,” he shared honestly. “At the same time, I have a strong desire to preserve this region as a fruit-growing area, and I’m torn because I don’t want to create abandoned land while others around me are retiring due to old age.”

Although abnormal weather patterns have persisted in recent years, Kazuhiro says, “Striving daily amidst the harshness of nature to produce delicious fruit is what makes fruit farming interesting and is the pride of a professional orchardist.” While devoting himself to research and producing better fruit, he also considers the development and sustainability of agriculture in Fukushima.

Turning Freshly Picked Fruit into Exquisite Sweets and Processed Goods

Driven by the desire to “share the delicious fruit Kazuhiro has grown with such love with as many people as possible,” his wife, Tomomi, opened “Yotsuba no Clover FARMERS GARDEN,” a farm stand and café, in November 2019. Located along the “Fruit Line”—a prefectural road lined with tourist orchards—it operates only during the fruit harvest season, yet attracts many visitors from both within and outside the prefecture every year.

“My parents also ran a fruit farm, but even though they worked from early morning until late at night, they never got to hear directly from the customers who bought their produce, so I always wanted to open a farm stand someday,” Tomomi says with a smile. At the farm stand that fulfilled her long-held dream, they sell seasonal cherries, peaches, and apples that Kazuhiro has carefully cultivated, as well as handmade processed goods like jams and juices that highlight the natural flavor of the fruit.In the attached café space, desserts made with generous amounts of freshly picked fruit are a big hit. The “Luxurious! Whole Morning-Picked Peach Parfait,” which is both adorable and visually striking, is also a huge hit. On sunny days, you can enjoy desserts and drinks on the terrace while admiring the views of the surrounding mountains.

We want to share the appeal of Fukushima’s fruit with children and younger generations

One of the unique advantages of a direct sales shop is the ability to sell “B-grade” items—such as fruit with minor blemishes or smaller-than-average pieces—directly to customers. “These items are well-received by our customers, and when they return, they often buy jams made from the same fruit as souvenirs,” says Tomomi. It has been six years since she opened the direct sales shop and café she had long dreamed of.“I feel joy in sharing Kazuhiro’s delicious peaches with so many people, and in passing on the appeal of Fukushima’s agriculture and peaches to my own children,” she says with a beaming smile. “It also makes me happy to see the younger generation taking an interest in Fukushima’s fruit and agriculture through the café,” adds Kazuhiro, his face also lighting up with a smile.

Drawing energy from customers’ comments like “That was delicious,” the Momiyama couple work hand in hand to promote the appeal of Fukushima’s fruit. They continue to protect the precious orchard inherited from their ancestors with pride.

The post Kazuhiro and Tomomi Momiyama of Momiyama Orchard, who carefully cultivate Fukushima’s prized peaches using natural soil-building methods / Fukushima City, Fukushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The “NPO Citrus Sommelier Ehime” was founded with the mission of “bringing Ehime’s citrus fruits into subculture.” In 2020, a group of young citrus farmers led by Shinji Ninomiya, the organization’s chairman, launched the “Citrus Sommelier Licensing System” based on the idea that “it would be interesting to have citrus sommeliers, just like there are wine and vegetable sommeliers.” Since then, this system has served as a catalyst, drawing more and more people into the world of citrus—a world that captivates the more you learn about it.

Why Ehime Prefecture Is Truly the Citrus Capital 

Ehime Prefecture is known as the “Citrus Kingdom,” boasting the highest citrus harvest volume and the widest variety of citrus fruits in Japan—so much so that citrus is the first thing that comes to mind when people think of the prefecture. With unique varieties such as Benimadonna, Kanpei, and Beniprincess, and thanks to a succession of harvests throughout the year, citrus fruits are available in the market nearly year-round, which is why the prefecture is called the Citrus Kingdom.

Citrus cultivation takes place throughout the prefecture, with particularly high production volumes along the entire coastline. Furthermore, Uwajima City, located in the Nanyo region, is the center of citrus cultivation and is also known as the birthplace of mandarin orange cultivation in Ehime Prefecture, where the cultivation of Satsuma mandarins first began. The terraced fields spreading across the steep slopes of the rias coastline are a defining feature of Uwajima City’s landscape.

The Citrus Sommelier Certification Program from Uwajima, a Major Citrus-Producing Region

In Uwajima City, a region renowned for citrus cultivation, Shinji Ninomiya launched the “Citrus Sommelier Licensing System” while running his own citrus farm. Born and raised in Uwajima, Ninomiya comes from a family of citrus farmers dating back to his grandfather’s generation; however, he had no intention of taking over the family business and was working in the apparel industry in Kyoto. However, when his grandfather passed away in his mid-20s, it prompted him to seriously consider taking over the family business. “From the late 1990s to the early 2000s, around the time I was deciding whether to take over the family business, the citrus industry was in a slump, weighed down by the economic downturn. ‘A few years had passed since I took over the family business, and just as I was starting to feel comfortable with farming, I was talking with local farmers of my generation about what interesting things we could do to revitalize the citrus industry and the region. At that time, we got excited about the idea of, “Wouldn’t it be interesting if there were citrus sommeliers, just like there are for wine or vegetables?” That moment became the catalyst for launching the Citrus Sommelier Licensing System,’ says Ninomiya. From there, centered around local citrus farmers, professionals from various fields and citrus enthusiasts who shared our vision came together to establish the NPO Citrus Sommelier Ehime, with the aim of conveying the deliciousness and joy of citrus. They launched the Citrus Sommelier Licensing System.

From a mere luxury item to a subculture

“Citrus fruits come in many varieties, each with its own unique character,” says Ninomiya. “From their beautiful colors and charming shapes to their flavors and aromas, the sound they make when peeled, and the personalities of the growers and the characteristics of their regions—the stories behind them are diverse. That’s where I sensed a subcultural element.” Precisely because these are the citrus fruits Ehime takes pride in, he wants people to be able to choose the ones that taste good and suit their preferences. “I want people to become interested in citrus by learning about the variety of flavors, and I want them to freely share their love for citrus.” These sentiments lie behind the creation of the “Citrus Sommelier Licensing System.”

We train professionals who can fully appreciate citrus fruits through intensive courses in theory and practical skills

The Citrus Sommelier License can be obtained by completing a two-day course and passing the exam. The course consists of a theoretical component, where participants learn the basics of citrus fruits using a textbook, and a practical component involving tasting. The textbook used for the theoretical portion is the “Citrus Textbook,” which Mr. Ninomiya and his team reportedly created through trial and error. It is the industry’s first citrus guidebook. Starting with a definition of “what a mikan is,” it covers everything from the ambiguous relationship between mikans and other citrus fruits, to explanations of citrus classification and varieties, how to eat them, farming methods, sales and distribution, and history. It is said to be enjoyable not only as a textbook but also as a read.

In the practical sessions, we use fresh fruit and juice to hone our ability to assess citrus quality, capture flavors through tasting, and develop the expressive skills needed to convey the appeal of citrus. While there are various methods for assessing quality, the stem provides a wealth of information. By examining color, shape, and size, we can determine sugar content, acidity, flavor intensity, and moisture levels. Sweetness can range from refreshing to thick and heavy, and aromas can vary from vibrant to mellow. Furthermore, participants learn to analyze and appreciate the elements that make up the flavor—such as the balance between acidity and sweetness and the aroma profile—moving beyond a simple judgment of “delicious” or “not delicious.” The ultimate goal is to discover ways to express the appeal of citrus fruits based on what they have learned.

“It would have been quicker if we had simply adapted the content of wine or vegetable sommelier courses, but because we wanted to incorporate what we ourselves felt as citrus farmers, it took time to finalize the course content. The response from those around us has been generally positive, and other producing regions are cooperating as well. Perhaps what was needed was a catalyst to revitalize the stagnant citrus industry,” he says.

To bring the appeal of citrus fruits closer to you

Alongside managing the Citrus Sommelier Licensing Program, Ninomiya and his team are also selling fresh fruit and pure juices through their online store. Their motivation stems from a desire to share the deliciousness and appeal of citrus in a more accessible way. Differences in varieties, and variations in flavor based on region and cultivation methods. As citrus sommeliers involved in production, the team members have spent their days working closely with citrus fruits, putting their unique characteristics and depth into words. The method they chose to share this knowledge with consumers is juice made by simply squeezing the fruit.

They use only citrus fruits grown by the citrus sommeliers themselves. Some juices highlight the distinct character of a single variety, while others blend multiple varieties to bring out a broader range of flavors. The diversity of citrus can be sensed through the way the sweetness develops, the lingering aftertaste, and the differences in aroma. By learning about the background—including differences in growing regions and producers—citrus becomes a deeper and more fascinating subject. Conveying the appeal of citrus through these experiences and increasing the number of people who enjoy it is also part of the citrus sommelier’s mission.

A citrus fruit that feels like my own child, yet is also a part of myself

While initiatives to promote citrus fruits are gaining momentum, the reality is that domestic demand for citrus continues to decline. Furthermore, the environment surrounding citrus cultivation is becoming increasingly challenging year by year. Factors include a loss of flavor intensity due to reduced temperature fluctuations caused by global warming, the need for large amounts of fertilizer as rising temperatures stimulate tree growth, and longer periods of disease and pest outbreaks. There are also challenges to maintaining the industry, such as labor shortages, the lack of successors, and the difficulty of mechanizing operations.

However, Mr. Ninomiya says there is still much that can be done. “Going forward, it’s important to adapt to these changes. This includes exploring cultivation methods that suppress growth and switching to varieties suited to the climate. When people say my citrus is delicious, it feels like they’re affirming me personally. I suppose I project myself onto the citrus. That’s why I want to do my very best with what I can do.” 

I hope that as many citrus sommeliers as possible will go out into the world and make their mark

The Citrus Sommelier Certification Course, held two to three times a year, is so popular that spots fill up in as little as five minutes after registration opens. Although there have been requests to hold the course in various regions, the plan is to continue at this pace for the time being. Incidentally, the pass rate is around 65–70%, and those who pass are awarded a certification. Since the Citrus Sommelier License program began in 2020, over 200 Citrus Sommeliers had been certified as of March 2026, and they are active throughout the country as “professionals who enjoy citrus.” Mr. Ninomiya feels that the community of citrus enthusiasts has been growing as a result of these ongoing efforts. His future goals are to further expand this community and pass on this initiative to the next generation. This unique initiative, characteristic of Ehime—the “Citrus Kingdom”—is steadily yielding results.

The post A citrus sommelier who elevates citrus from a food item to a form of entertainment. Shinji Ninomiya of the NPO Citrus Sommelier Ehime / Uwajima City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Ehime is one of Japan’s leading citrus-producing regions. Among its areas, the Maana district of Yawatahama City is known as the home of the premium Satsuma mandarin brand, “Maana Mandarin oranges.” How did they elevate Satsuma mandarins to the status of a premium citrus fruit? Behind this success lies the tireless effort of the “Maana Citrus Cooperative Sorting Committee,” which has worked to protect and nurture the region through the refinement of cultivation techniques and the enhancement of the brand image.

Overlooking the Uwa Sea, one of the prefecture’s leading mandarin orange-growing regions

The Maajiro and Anai districts of Yawatahama City overlook the Sada Peninsula in Ehime Prefecture, located at the westernmost tip of Shikoku. “Maana” is the collective name for these two districts. It’s a 25-minute drive from the city center. As you drive along the coastline, you’ll soon come upon steep terraced fields. While this may be a common sight for locals, the interplay between the sea and the terraced fields creates a beauty reminiscent of Japan’s traditional landscape.

Maana Mandarin oranges are grown on these terraced fields overlooking the Uwa Sea. Known as a premium variety among Satsuma mandarins, they are highly regarded, particularly in the Tokyo metropolitan area.

The Maana Citrus Cooperative Sorting Association (hereinafter referred to as “Maana Cooperative”), which handles everything from production to shipping, consists of 155 producers and JA staff, led by Cooperative Director Hiramasa Nakai. Most of the producers are natives of the Maana district. The community and the members of the Cooperative work together as one to produce high-quality Maana Mandarin oranges.

Branding Maana’s Satsuma mandarins as “Maana Mandarin oranges”

The history of mandarin orange cultivation in Maana began in 1900 (Meiji 33) with 300 saplings planted from Tachima in Yoshida-cho, Uwajima City—the birthplace of Satsuma mandarins in Ehime Prefecture.

With its rias coastline and terrain characterized by few flat areas and many slopes, this region was unsuitable for general farming. However, its warm climate, abundant sunshine, and good drainage made it an ideal environment for fruit cultivation. Our forebears cultivated the mountains, built terraced fields, and worked tirelessly to establish mandarin cultivation.

The region’s name became known nationwide in 1964 (Showa 39), when it became the first mandarin orange-producing area in Japan to receive the “Emperor’s Cup.” The Emperor’s Cup is the highest honor awarded to particularly outstanding agricultural, forestry, and fisheries producers from across the country. Taking this as an opportunity, the region committed to cultivating even higher-quality mandarin oranges and worked together to build the “Maana Mandarin oranges” brand, including registering it as a trademark.

A unique sweetness nurtured by “Five Suns”

“The Five Suns,” which harness the natural terrain and traditional wisdom. This is said to be the secret behind the sweet, juicy flavor of Maana Mandarin oranges.

In addition to the three “suns” that have remained unchanged since the Meiji era—sunlight, the glimmer of the sea, and the reflection off the stone walls of the terraced fields—recent years have seen the addition of sunlight reflected from white agricultural mulch sheets laid to regulate soil temperature, retain moisture, and prevent fertilizer runoff during heavy rains, as well as reflections from the paved paths within the orchard. By skillfully utilizing these five sources of light to promote photosynthesis, the sugar content of the fruit is maximized.

Strict standards and taste testing by artisans

Shipments of Maana Mandarin oranges begin in late October, with the peak season running from November to December.

The harvested mandarins are transported to a sorting facility, where they undergo a rigorous selection process. State-of-the-art cameras and light sensors are used to measure sugar content, acidity, size, and shape, and the fruit is then graded accordingly.

Finally, a taste test is conducted by experienced professionals. “I consider this the most important criterion,” says Mr. Nakai.

Only fruits that pass these strict selection criteria receive the red seal of approval as Maana Mandarin oranges. The thin skin enveloping the flesh melts in your mouth, and the juicy pulp bursts with flavor—so much so that they are often referred to as “mandarin juice you can drink.”

All-weather multi-drip cultivation that withstands climate change

The Maana District has long been renowned for producing high-quality mandarin oranges thanks to its naturally arid climate, but in recent years, due to a succession of abnormal weather patterns, there has been an increase in years where the flavor of the fruit varies significantly. In particular, when the area is hit by heavy rainfall in the fall, the fruit fails to reach its full sugar content, leading to a decline in quality.

To address this issue, growers have adopted “mulch drip cultivation” (commonly known as “Marudori cultivation”). This method involves laying white mulch over the orchards to block rainwater, ensuring high quality is maintained regardless of climate fluctuations.

A groundbreaking technology with the potential to enable sustainable agriculture

Mulch cultivation is a method in which white mulch is laid over the orchard, with drip tubes placed underneath to provide appropriate irrigation. By monitoring soil moisture levels with specialized sensors, this method increases fruit sugar content while minimizing stress on the trees, and simultaneously reduces acidity.

Stress cultivation is an essential method for increasing fruit sugar content, but conventional methods place a heavy burden on the trees, raising concerns about alternate bearing—where a poor harvest follows a bountiful one—and a shortened tree lifespan.

In contrast, Marudori cultivation is said to “produce high-sugar mandarins by applying mild stress to the fruit while reducing the burden on the trees.” In fact, while the average yield per farm in the Manana district is 4 tons, growers successfully practicing Marudori cultivation consistently record yields of 6 to 8 tons annually. There is also minimal variation in quality, ensuring stable production.

“We minimize fluctuations between good and bad years, ensuring production volume while pursuing flavor. Marudori cultivation makes that possible,” says Nakai, his voice brimming with confidence. He notes that the number of growers adopting Marudori cultivation is increasing year by year.

Expanding Our Product Line to Support the Brand

The Maana Cooperative is also actively developing processed products to deliver the delicious taste of Maana Mandarin oranges year-round.

“We use even fruit that meets shipping standards as raw material for processing, crafting it into the finest mandarin orange juice,” says Sadao Abe, the cooperative’s executive director.

Their flagship product is pure juice. While it is popular for its rich sweetness and aroma that capture the natural flavor of the fruit, behind the scenes lies a story of hard work: it took a long time to develop, and a special production method was created through countless rounds of trial and error.

“People often ask, ‘Why is Maana Mandarin oranges juice so dark in color?’” says Nakai. “This is actually the result of repeated trial and error during development, ensuring that when our product is displayed on store shelves, customers can tell the difference from other mandarin juices at a glance.” By blending juices extracted using different methods, they achieve a product with greater depth of flavor.

“Pachi Pachi” Craft Gin Made with Maana Mandarin Oranges

In recent years, craft gins produced by small-scale distilleries have become popular, and Manaa Cooperative has also taken on the challenge of commercializing a craft gin made with Maana Mandarin oranges. The result is “Hachi°Hachi° (Pachi-Pachi),” developed jointly by “Shunka Bussan,” the official distributor of Mana mandarins, and local sake brewery “Kondo Shuzo.”

It is made by distilling and blending eight botanicals related to the Maana Mandarin oranges—including the fruit, flowers, and new shoots, as well as the fruits of the Japanese holly used in windbreak hedges—separately by ingredient.

The origin of the unique name “Hachi°Hachi° (Pachi Pachi)” comes from the sound made when harvesting mandarins.

In the Maana district, fruit is picked twice to avoid damaging it with scissors. The first cut leaves a slightly longer branch, and the second cut is made closer to the base. The name of this carefully crafted gin was inspired by the distinctive sound unique to the Maana district, where mandarin oranges are harvested with such care.

This ambitious creation, which captures the refreshing aroma and sweetness characteristic of mandarin oranges, won the Silver Award in the Western Spirits (Gin) category at the “Tokyo Whisky & Spirits Competition 2022.”

To preserve the landscape of the terraced fields and ensure that the region’s history as a production area continues for generations to come

Although agriculture in mountainous and hilly regions is generally on the decline nationwide due to factors such as an aging workforce and a shortage of successors, the Maana district has shown exceptional resilience.

The cultivation area managed by the Maana Cooperative was approximately 290 hectares 20 years ago, compared to about 250 hectares today (2025). Through initiatives such as brand development through the cooperative and the introduction of new technologies, the decline in cultivated area over the past 20 years has been limited to just 40 hectares. Furthermore, the rate of decline in the number of farming households appears to be lower than in other regions, with 155 farming households currently supporting the production area.

“I believe that brand development has fostered a spirit among producers, inspiring each of them to take pride in their work,” says Mr. Nakai.

Matching experienced farmers with new farmers

Currently, the Maana District welcomes one to two agricultural trainees each year with the goal of increasing the number of new farmers. Rather than relying on the government, the two believe that the key to shaping the future of the Maana District lies in how the cooperative can actively welcome new farmers.

They are implementing an initiative to recruit producers in their 60s and older who are considering succession planning and match them with trainees. The ideal process involves two years of training under a veteran producer, followed by the eventual succession of that orchard. “Going forward, we want to improve our infrastructure—such as warehouses and orchard roads—to enhance our capacity to accept trainees,” says Mr. Abe.

“By working together in unity—producers and local residents alike—we want to revitalize the mandarin orange industry while competing and learning from other producing regions.”

Nakai’s words were imbued with the pride of a mandarin orange farmer.

The post Preserving the terraced fields of our hometown and carrying on the legacy of Maana Mandarin orange. “Maana Citrus Cooperative Sorting Association” / Yawatahama City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

A refined, sophisticated flavor with a clean sweetness and subtle bitterness

Located in the southern part of Ehime Prefecture, Ainan Town is a major production center for Kawachi Bangan, which boasts the highest production volume in Japan. Known by several names, including Ainan Gold, Uwa Gold, and Miseikan, the Kawachi Bangan is sometimes called the “Japanese grapefruit” because its appearance and flavor resemble those of a grapefruit. It is a popular citrus fruit that is sweet without being cloying, featuring a pleasant tartness and a subtle bitterness, as well as a refreshing juiciness. Toshiyuki Yoshimoto, the owner of Yoshimoto Farm, works alongside his family to cultivate nine varieties of citrus, centered around the Kawachi Bangkan, including Amapei, Benimadonna, Setoka, Iyokan, Dekopon, and Satsuma mandarin.

The first-generation founder, who defied opposition from those around him to take on the unprecedented challenge of growing citrus fruits on flat land

In the Nanyo region of Ehime Prefecture—the heartland of citrus cultivation—most orchards consist of terraced fields built on steep slopes, but Mr. Yoshimoto’s orchard is located on flat, level ground. During World War II, people even joked that this land was so vast and flat it could be turned into an airfield. Seeing this, a man who grew mandarins in Yoshida Town—a leading citrus-growing area in Ehime Prefecture—suggested, “Why don’t you try planting mandarins here?” That suggestion became the origin of Yoshimoto Farm. “When my grandfather first set out to grow citrus, this was actually a sweet potato field. Apparently, people around him opposed the idea, asking, ‘Why plant citrus in a potato field?’ but he pushed through with it, and it worked out. That’s why we’re here today. It rains a lot here, and it’s warm. Since strong northwest winds blow, we first planted a windbreak. While it’s said that Satsuma mandarins dislike rain, we’ve come to realize that any type of citrus can be grown here if the soil is properly prepared. “To create soil that retains moisture well and drains efficiently—so that delicious citrus can grow—organic matter and microorganisms are essential,” says Mr. Yoshimoto.

Healthy, fertile soil created with the help of soil microorganisms and other living organisms

It’s said that what makes a citrus fruit delicious isn’t simply a matter of high or low sugar content; rather, the balance between sugar and acidity, along with the depth of flavor derived from minerals in the soil, is crucial. To achieve this, we need to encourage the growth of microorganisms that produce minerals in the soil. “We’ve been steadily improving the soil by adding organic fertilizers like compost and straw mulch. “Nowadays, there are compost centers where you can buy compost, but back in the day, we used to get livestock manure from livestock farmers, mix it with thatch and rice straw, and let it ferment—so it smelled absolutely terrible. As the soil becomes richer, earthworms start to multiply. Then moles come, followed by wild boars. If you see holes in the ground or traces of digging, that’s a sign the soil is in good condition. But if you spray herbicides, the microorganisms are drastically reduced.” Mr. Yoshimoto, who inherited the orchard his grandfather cleared from his father, has been adding compost for over 20 years, carefully preserving and nurturing the orchard’s soil.

The rich, delicious flavors nature provides

The Kawachi Bankan is a fascinating citrus fruit whose taste varies completely depending on when it is harvested. The Kawachi Bankan available in March, at the start of the harvest season, is juicy, fresh, and contains seeds. Strangely enough, around June—as the harvest season reaches its midpoint—the seeds disappear, and you can enjoy its ripe flavor and firm, plump texture until the end of the season around August. “The taste and texture change depending on the season, but each period has its own unique characteristics, and I take pride in producing fruit that people genuinely find delicious. At first, the taste was no different from mandarins grown elsewhere, but once I could tell the difference myself, my confidence grew. About ten years ago, customers started telling me, ‘These are delicious,’ and the number of repeat customers has been increasing.” Mr. Yoshimoto’s eyes shine as he speaks.

“It feels as though nature skillfully provides us with exactly what we crave in each season. In the cold winter, the warm-looking orange Satsuma mandarins are at their best, while in the hot summer, the refreshingly cool-looking yellow Kawachi Bangan oranges become delicious. Even when I’m worn out by the heat, eating a Kawachi Bangan with its juicy, crisp flavor gives me a boost of energy. It’s one of the citrus fruits you simply can’t do without in summer. Nowadays, we can get all kinds of fruits and vegetables year-round, but I wonder if the lack of a sense of the seasons is a good thing or a bad thing. I think seasonal produce has a lower environmental impact during production, and above all, it tastes better.”
At Yoshimoto Farm, they cultivate a well-balanced selection of citrus varieties, allowing them to harvest seasonal citrus throughout the year through a “variety relay.”

There is no end to the pursuit of growing delicious mandarins. It is a daily cycle of continuous effort.

Of course, there are challenges involved in creating fertile soil while minimizing the use of herbicides and chemical fertilizers. Just because we don’t want to use herbicides doesn’t mean we can let the orchard become overrun with weeds. Citrus cultivation that prioritizes soil quality is also a battle against weeds. However, weeding—which used to be done by hand—is evolving with the times, such as through the use of self-propelled mowers that automatically mow the orchard 24 hours a day, thereby saving labor. Incidentally, the introduction of these self-propelled mowers was only possible because the orchard is flat. It is a cultivation method that takes advantage of the terrain.
Summer watering is also a critical task that affects the growth and quality of the citrus fruit. While they irrigate using water pumped up from a source 3 km below or water drawn from the mountains, these supplies are limited. To make up for any shortfall, they draw water from the river or, starting around August when rice paddies no longer require water, utilize irrigation water, ensuring they water the orchards with the appropriate amount at the right time.

We use absolutely no herbicides; instead, we cut the grass by hand and return the clippings directly to the soil. Through years of this painstaking work, the fields have developed into a fluffy soil that retains moisture well while still draining effectively. As the roots spread healthily, the fruit trees absorb the necessary nutrients thoroughly, naturally increasing the sugar content of the fruit. Furthermore, creating an environment that utilizes grass helps prevent the proliferation of pests such as stink bugs. By tailoring the soil to the specific characteristics of each citrus variety, a balanced acidity enhances the sweetness, resulting in flavorful mandarins that leave you wanting more after just one bite. In recognition of these years of trial and error and the farm’s unwavering commitment to soil cultivation, Yoshimoto Farm received the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award in 2003.
“I’ve grown these mandarins with the conviction that I must protect this mandarin-growing region and revitalize it. I’m truly delighted that this has been recognized and that I’ve been able to receive such a wonderful award,” says Yoshimoto. “Since we’ve worked so hard to produce delicious mandarins up to this point, I want to pass on that expertise and know-how. I believe doing so will revitalize Ainan Town and give farmers a sense of purpose,” says Mr. Yoshimoto. The citrus fruits from Yoshimoto Farm, which are highly praised as “once you try them, you’ll want more,” continue to gain new fans with each passing year.

The post Kawachi Bangan from “Yoshimoto Farm”—rich and full-bodied flavor cultivated in fertile soil / Ainan Town, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

“Fuyukoi” is a special apple brand from Iwate Prefecture, featuring only the finest “Haruka” apples that meet stringent criteria for sugar content and honeycore. Available only during the brief start of winter, its rich sweetness and crisp texture offer truly premium flavor.

Iwate: A Diverse Apple-Producing Region with “Original Varieties”

Iwate Prefecture ranks as Japan’s third-largest apple-producing region, following Aomori and Nagano. Leveraging natural conditions like significant temperature fluctuations and rich soil, high-quality apples are cultivated primarily in inland areas.

The first Western apple seedlings were imported to Japan in 1871, shortly after the country opened its doors. The following year, Western apple cultivation began in Iwate Prefecture, making it one of the earliest regions in Japan to engage in apple production.The region focuses not only on productivity but also on quality improvement and variety development. Through collaboration among producers, agricultural cooperatives (JA), local governments, and research institutions, Iwate has created numerous “original Iwate varieties,” such as the “Beni Iwate” with its deep red skin and strong sweetness, and the juicy, large “Ooyume.” One of these is the “Haruka” variety, which serves as the base for the “Fuyukoi” apple.

The Iwate-born apple variety “Haruka”

Haruka was born in 1976 in the orchard of Iwate University’s Faculty of Agriculture and made its market debut as a registered variety in 2002. Its name comes from the grandson of its creator, the late Professor Emeritus Kiyoshi Yokota.It is a late-season variety with yellow skin, known for its abundant honey, rich sweetness, and crisp, juicy texture. However, it also has characteristics that initially hindered its popularity: smaller fruit size and a tendency to develop “rust” – a condition where the skin discolors and becomes rough. As a result, it was considered “unattractive” when first introduced, and few producers initially took up its cultivation.

However, some recognized Haruka’s potential. In 2006, dedicated growers from across the prefecture gathered and established the “Iwate Haruka Research Group” (now the Iwate Fuyukoi Research Group) with fruit-growing organizations. They began working to improve quality and establish cultivation methods, aiming to “develop Haruka into Iwate’s brand apple.”

One of the founding members was Mineo Kumagai of Shimokubo Farm in Morioka City. Having dedicated over 20 years to improving Haruka’s quality and establishing cultivation methods, and serving as chairman of the Iwate Fuyukoi Research Group until 2024, Kumagai reflected on the group’s origins: “While its appearance isn’t great, Haruka’s excellent honey-infused sweetness and high sugar content are major attractions. I wanted to find a way to make the most of that.”

Overcoming Weaknesses with “Bagging”

Members of the “Iwate Haruka Research Group,” who cultivate apples across the vast regions of Iwate Prefecture, grew Haruka in a corner of their respective orchards. Through repeated information exchange and discussions, they tested various cultivation methods. One year, a member accidentally bagged a Haruka tree instead of a neighboring one. Surprisingly, it produced a clean, rust-free yellow fruit.

“Bagging” refers to the cultivation method of placing bags over apples after thinning. This protects against disease and sunburn, maintains freshness and quality post-harvest, and improves “storage life” for longer preservation. Additionally, removing the bags just before harvest to expose the fruit to sunlight promotes coloring, resulting in an even, vibrant hue.

Feeling confident that “this could work,” Mr. Kumagai and his team switched Haruka cultivation from “unbagged” to bagged. As a result, the occurrence of rust and blemishes decreased significantly.

However, bagged apples develop lower sugar content compared to unbagged apples that grow with ample sunlight. To overcome this, they experimented extensively: testing multiple types of bags with different materials and specifications, and drastically reducing the number of fruits per tree to concentrate nutrients on each remaining fruit.After years of effort, they succeeded in growing larger fruit without compromising its inherent flavor. Today, techniques for cultivating high-quality Haruka apples are becoming established, including using specialized bags for bagging and allowing the fruit to fully ripen on the tree before harvest.

“Still, apple cultivation happens only once a year. Even after growing Haruka for 20 years, I’ve only experienced 20 harvests. There might be a more suitable bag, or other better methods—research never ends,” says Kumagai. This relentless accumulation of effort is steadily elevating Haruka’s quality and reputation.

Only the most meticulously selected apples become “Fuyukoi”

Among the Iwate-grown “Haruka” apples cultivated this way, only those meeting specific standards—such as sugar content, honeycore presence, and appearance—are granted the “Fuyukoi” designation.

“Fuyukoi” is a branded apple handled by JA Zen-Noh Iwate. Harvested Haruka apples are individually measured using light sensor sorting machines, selecting only those with “sugar content of 15 degrees or higher,” “honeycore,” and “excellent appearance.” Only these selected apples are shipped as “Fuyukoi.”Furthermore, those meeting even higher standards—”sugar content of 16 degrees or higher and honeycore” and “free of rust spots or blemishes”—become “Premium Fuyukoi.”

The shipping period is late November to December. Named “Fuyukoi” (Winter Love) because they are harvested just before winter, the latest among apples produced in Iwate Prefecture, and their high sugar content evokes the image of sweet love, “Fuyukoi” is gaining recognition year by year and is popular as a gift. It is also handled by department stores and high-end produce shops.

“Haruka is inherently a high-sugar variety that easily develops honeydew. The Haruka we grow averages around 18 degrees Brix, with many exceeding 20 degrees,” says Mr. Kumagai. The typical sugar content for apples is around 13 degrees Brix. Considering this, even Haruka apples not selected for Fuyukoi are sufficiently sweet.

“So what makes Fuyukoi special? Its visual beauty. For personal consumption, even unbagged Haruka with rust spots is fine—I even think it might taste better that way. But when giving them as gifts, you naturally want something that looks beautiful.”

Haruka’s skin is extremely delicate. Even when carefully cultivated with bags to protect it from external stress, bruises or blemishes can sometimes appear. Fuyukoi’s flawless, smooth texture is the crystallization of the grower’s meticulous work.

Adding value through labor

To grow large, high-quality apples, thinning young fruit—known as “fruit thinning”—is essential.Apples rely on leaves for photosynthesis to deliver nutrients to the fruit, making the balance between leaves and fruit crucial. Typically, thinning aims for a ratio of about 40-50 leaves per fruit. For Haruka, however, it’s astonishingly 100 leaves per fruit. By drastically reducing the number of fruits on the tree, nutrients are concentrated, resulting in sweeter, larger apples.

Haruka apples, cultivated through this “select few” approach, are still grown on a relatively small scale with limited production, making them rarely seen in stores. The “Fuyukoi” and “Premium Fuyukoi” grades selected from these are even more scarce.”We want to turn that rarity into value and return as much profit as possible to the growers,” says Kumagai. He explains that the research group was established precisely because they wanted to create a system where “hard work producing excellent fruit is properly valued and leads to profit.”

A Voice for Iwate’s Apple Appeal

As chairman of the Iwate Fuyukoi Research Group, Kumagai actively promotes the apples at events and markets both within and outside the prefecture. “Over the past few years, I’ve really started to feel that Haruka and Fuyukoi are gaining fans,” he says. “More producers are supporting this initiative, and our membership is growing. We want to ride this momentum and bring in even more partners.”

Haruka is a variety born in Iwate, but there are no restrictions on where it can be grown, and it is now cultivated outside the prefecture as well. However, only Haruka apples grown in Iwate can carry the “Fuyukoi” brand name. “Nationally, when people think of apples, they probably think of Aomori or Nagano,” Kumagai says with hope. “I want to spread the word widely that ‘Iwate also has such excellent apples.’ I believe Fuyukoi and Haruka are major selling points for that.”

There are no limits to “making good things”

The apple orchards of Shimokubo Farm spread across the rolling hills overlooking Mount Iwate. Located at an elevation of approximately 360 meters, it is one of the highest apple farms in Iwate. Compared to lower-lying areas, the temperatures are cooler. When the farm acquired this land 40 years ago, they struggled because the fruit didn’t grow large. However, with global warming, temperatures have gradually risen. “Now, we grow better apples than other farms at lower elevations,” Kumagai explains.The higher elevation also means a greater temperature difference between day and night, resulting in apples with a firm, crisp texture,” says Kumagai.

Nevertheless, global warming remains a serious problem. Apples thrive in cool climates, and high temperatures cause various issues like poor coloring, sunburn, and diminished flavor. They also tend to develop less honeycore, which could undermine the brand value of varieties like Haruka and Fuyukoi that pride themselves on this characteristic.

Furthermore, soaring material costs and rising labor expenses are major burdens. Unlike crops like rice, where mechanization is advancing, apple cultivation remains largely manual. Tasks like bagging and harvesting, which require delicate handling of the fruit, must be done by hand, one by one. “If we could mechanize, maybe my son and I could manage it, but that’s not possible. So we have to hire people, and the more labor-intensive it is, the higher the labor costs,” says Kumagai.The environment surrounding apple farming grows harsher each year, with global warming, persistent abnormal weather patterns, and rising production costs all taking their toll.

“I’m completely exhausted. It’s like hanging on by a thread, barely managing to keep going,” he says with a wry smile. Yet he adds, “Even while being swept up by changes in the times and environment, I feel fortunate to have made it this far.” His eyes still burn with passion for apple growing. “This work is enjoyable because I can devise my own methods and experiment. I know there’s still so much I don’t know, and I believe there’s still more I can do. There are no limits to making something truly good.”

To avoid cutting down apple trees

“It would be easy to quit apple farming and just cut down the trees. But then all the years of care invested up to that point would be lost in an instant, and if I ever wanted to get it back, it would take just as much time. That’s why I want to keep going as much as possible. So I won’t have to cut down the apple trees I’m growing now.”

His son Katsuhiko, who runs the orchard with his father, shares this sentiment. “With global warming continuing like this, I wonder if there will come a time when we can’t rely solely on apples. That’s why we’re also growing other crops in separate fields. But I don’t want to give up apple farming. It’s hard work, but it’s still enjoyable.”

“Growing apples is fun,” the Kumagai father and son say in unison. Despite facing various challenges and hardships, their sincere commitment to “producing something better” is what underpins the special flavor of Haruka and Fuyukoi apples.

The post All high-sugar content, honey-filled. The specially selected apple “Fuyukoi” / Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kazuaki Furukawa, the fourth generation owner of Furukawa FARM, has made the decision to switch from chemical fertilizers to organic fertilizers and to stop using herbicides through a cultivation method called “weed cultivation. He has been able to improve the taste of his pears while reducing the burden on the environment. He focused his attention on the rare “Natsuhikari” variety, which won a prize at a contest, and now he and his wife, the fifth generation, are striving to create fans of the farm.

Cultivating soil with an eye on eating quality

In Chiba Prefecture, which regularly ranks as Japan’s largest producer of pears, the northwestern part of the prefecture is the most active pear-growing area. The history of pear cultivation dates back to the Edo period, when pear cultivation in Chiba Prefecture began in present-day Ichikawa City. The northwestern part of the prefecture still accounts for about half of the prefecture’s pear production, thanks to the Kanto loam soil, which is suitable for pear cultivation, and its proximity to the huge consumption center of Tokyo. Kamagaya City is one of the major pear production areas.

In Kamagaya, many pear orchards have direct sales stands on their premises, and from the beginning of August through early autumn, banners selling pears directly are flown along the main roads and in other places. Pear orchards are an indispensable souvenir of the Bon Festival, and many also sell pears for gift-giving. The sight of pears being sold with tastings by the side of the work area is a typical summer scene.

Furukawa FARM runs a pear orchard in Kamagaya City.

Producing pears that you can decide the price yourself

Furukawa FARM began as a vegetable farm in the Meiji era (1868-1912) and started growing pears in the 1950s. Kazuaki Furukawa, who was in his 20s at the time, took over the family business around 1990, but he did not want to “inherit what his parents had done,” so he participated in an agricultural training program in the United States for about two years before starting farming. After returning to Japan, he decided to start working toward the “pear orchard he wanted to create.

At the time, Mr. Furukawa’s biggest problem was “the current situation of growing pears for which he could not decide the price. When I came back to Japan, my family was still growing vegetables, and during the summer when vegetables were not available, I was growing pears to make up for it. So we couldn’t take care of the pears, and we couldn’t produce good pears, so we had no choice but to sell them at the market. I always wanted to change the situation where pears were shipped at a low price every day and increase the ratio of direct sales,” he says.

To improve the quality of his pears and increase his profit margin, Mr. Furukawa shifted the main focus of his cultivation from vegetables to pears, and gradually switched to cultivation methods with an awareness of eating quality.

Changes after switching to organic fertilizers

Furukawa FARM has been using 100% organic fertilizers since 2002, and has stopped using chemical fertilizers altogether. Currently, they use chicken manure, cattle manure, fish meal, and rice bran as fertilizers, and they say that the “taste” of their produce has changed dramatically since they switched to organic fertilizers. The new organic fertilizers have greatly changed the taste of the grapes. “Although they grow slower than chemical fertilizers, they produce fruit more slowly, so they store plenty of juice and have a nice crunchy texture,” he says.

Furthermore, “the balance between acidity and sweetness has improved,” he says. Based on his experience, Mr. Furukawa believes that nitrogen, a component of fertilizers, affects the acidity of pears. When we were using chemical fertilizers, the nitrogen content directly entered the pears, and the acidity was too strong. I have the impression that the acidity has become milder. For this reason, he pays special attention to the use of chicken manure, which has a high nitrogen content. Chicken manure has a strong immediate effect, so I never use it close to harvest. Rather, it is important to use it after harvest to prepare the soil environment for the next season,” says Furukawa.

Soil preparation through herbaceous cultivation

The farm’s soil is cultivated using a method called “herbaceous cultivation,” which makes use of weeds that grow naturally in the garden. Along with this, he also uses no-till cultivation, in which the fields are not tilled. Even after spreading fertilizer, they do not plow the field with a tractor, but leave it as it is and let nature take its course until it permeates the soil through decomposition by microorganisms. The number of earthworms increases and moles come a lot. Recently, beetle larvae have grown up to become adults and appear in the pear orchard.

Grass cultivation is a cultivation method in which a variety of weeds grow and take root in the garden, which is expected to fix nutrients in the soil, prevent the soil from drying out, suppress the rise in surface temperature, and make the soil softer. Healthy soil is the key to healthy pear trees,” says Furukawa while walking on the soft soil in the garden.

Young Farmers Spreading the Word about Highly Evaluated Eating Quality

Furukawa FARM currently grows six varieties of pears: Kosui, Natsuhikari, Toyosui, Kaori, Akizuki, and Niitaka. Of these, the rare “Natsuhikari” has been the focus of much attention in recent years. In addition to the Natsuhikari and other varieties winning awards at contests, the activities of the fifth generation couple who joined the farm as Mr. Furukawa’s successors have also contributed to a gradual increase in the number of fans. The sales channel, which used to focus on market shipments, has grown to the point where direct sales account for more than half of the business.

Natsuhikari, a rare variety attracting attention

In 2022, Natsuhikari won the Gold Prize in the August fruit and vegetable category of the “Vegetable Sommelier Summit” hosted by the Japan Vegetable Sommelier Association. In the same year, Kaori won the Gold Award and Toyosui won the Silver Award in the September Fruits and Vegetables Category. Natsuhikari is the most popular pear at Furukawa FARM.

Although Natsuhikari was developed in Chiba Prefecture in 1995, its production is low and it is a rarity in Chiba Prefecture, being outnumbered by the standard varieties Kosui and Toyosui. However, it has a high sugar content that is said to exceed that of Kosui, and it is so juicy that the juice drips down when the peel is removed.

Daughter and her husband spread the appeal of pears

Although the future as a pear farmer presents some challenges, such as the difficulty of cultivation due to global warming, the fact that his daughter Natsuki has succeeded him as the fifth generation farmer is a source of great hope for Mr. Furukawa.

For Natsuki, the farm is a place of fond memories, where she has helped with the work during her summer trips home. As I get older each year, I think it will be tough for my parents to continue to handle this amount of work alone. Our pears are very tasty, so I didn’t want the business to die out after my parents’ generation,” said Natsuki, who decided to start farming with her husband, Kodai.

Natsuki and her husband, Kodai, decided to start farming together. She has opened an online store and uses Instagram to spread the word, saying, “Especially since Natsuhikari is still not well known, we need opportunities to let people know about it. At the direct sales booths, they carefully convey the characteristics of eating quality with tastings. Natsuki laughs, “I often have a lot of fun talking about pears with customers who come to the direct sales stand. Thanks to such efforts, the number of fans has gradually increased, and the direct sales ratio has been successfully raised.

We are gradually getting more and more customers who tell us they are looking forward to receiving Mr. Furukawa’s pears next season,” says Natsuki. I think we must continue to produce pears of even better quality than before,” says Mr. Kodai with enthusiasm. Mr. Furukawa, watching the activities of the next generation at his side, said, “We were just too occupied with what we had been doing until now, but I am very encouraged that we have made solid connections with new customers. I look forward to the future.

The Furukawa family’s pear delicacy has been passed down from generation to generation. We can’t wait to see what the future holds.

The post Kazuaki Furukawa, the fourth generation owner of Furukawa FARM, who delivers high-quality pears with young people who will lead the next generation / Kamagaya City, Chiba Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Chiba Prefecture, the birthplace of pears in Japan, is number one in Japan in terms of cultivation area, harvest volume (production volume), and production value. Another feature is the variety of varieties that can be eaten depending on the season. Nashiya Yozaemon, which runs a pear farm in Ichikawa City, is particular about quality and seasonality. We got a glimpse into the cultivation of the ultimate pears, which pursues freshness, high sugar content, and a crunchy texture.

Chiba Prefecture’s pears are number one in Japan

When you think of agricultural products in Chiba Prefecture, peanuts may be the first thing that comes to mind, but it is also the number one producer of pears in Japan. According to the “National Position of Chiba Prefecture’s Pears” created by Chiba Prefecture based on data from 2021, Chiba Prefecture ranks first (production value 7.4 billion yen, harvest volume 20,500 tons, cultivation area 1340 hectares), Ibaraki Prefecture (production value 6.9 billion yen, harvest volume 19,100 tons, cultivation area 914 hectares), Tochigi Prefecture (production value 5.4 billion yen, harvest volume 15,900 tons, cultivation area 735 hectares), Tottori Prefecture (production value 5.1 billion yen, harvest volume 11,100 tons, cultivation area 618 hectares), and Nagano Prefecture (production value 4.8 billion yen, harvest volume 12,000 tons, cultivation area 664 hectares), ranking first in the nation. By the way, in the production statistics from 2002 to 2022, Chiba Prefecture has always ranked first, except for one time in 2019, when it lost the top spot to Ibaraki Prefecture. Because of the warm climate surrounded by the sea on three sides, the flowers bloom and the harvest season is early in the Kanto region. It is a suitable place for cultivating pears, blessed with favorable soil and weather conditions. In addition, since the consumption areas are close, mainly in the metropolitan area, freshly harvested pears can be delivered to consumers.

Chiba Prefecture has a long history of pear cultivation, dating back to the Edo period. It is said that it was spread by Zenroku Kawakami in 1769 in what is now the Yahata district of Ichikawa City, and the pears harvested in this area were transported to Edo and were highly praised as luxury goods, so the northwestern part of Chiba Prefecture became a major production area in the Kanto Plain.

Among them, Yosaemon is a long-established farmer in Chiba Prefecture that has been in business for over 200 years and has been growing pears for over 60 years. Tanaka Sokichi, the eighth generation owner, told us, “Chiba Prefecture has fertile soil known as the Kanto Loam layer, so no matter what variety we grow, we can produce a good one. The best part is that it’s surrounded by the sea on three sides, so the temperature is stable, which is probably good for pears too.”

Deepening confidence as the eighth generation of “Yosaemon”

Tanaka took on the title of “Yosaemon” as the eighth generation owner at the age of 27. Since childhood, he never helped with the family business. He thought “farming is shameful and uncool” and never even set foot on a farm during his adolescence. He had a vague idea in the back of his mind that he would “take over the family business someday,” but after graduating from Tokyo University of Agriculture, he got a job at an agricultural chemical manufacturer. As he got used to his job as a salesman, a turning point came when he interacted with producers. He had more opportunities to meet face to face and talk face to face. His thoughts changed, and he came to realize that “(agriculture) is a job with more depth than I thought, including valuing local food.”

However, although he majored in fruit trees at the Faculty of Agriculture in university, when he actually went out to the fields, things often didn’t go as planned, unlike in class. His father, Tanaka Akiyuki, the seventh generation owner, gave him one piece of advice: “Take a bite (of the pear).”

At the time, regular customers would tell him that the taste was different from before, and he was overcome with a sense of sadness that he had nowhere to go. But as he took great care in preparing the soil and managing the fields, and continued to try and error to improve the taste and quality, more and more customers began to say that the pears were delicious. “I’m glad I kept going. Everyone’s praise was encouraging,” said Tanaka.

Then in 2010, Tanaka won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award at the Chiba Prefecture Pear Taste Contest. His pear cultivation was recognized in Chiba Prefecture, the “kingdom of pears.” As he gained confidence as the eighth generation owner of Yosaemon, he began his days working with pears.

Passion for Pear Growing

Yosaemon’s fields are located in Ichikawa City and Tomisato City, where Tanaka lives. Although Ichikawa City and other areas in the Tokatsu region of Chiba Prefecture are the birthplace of fertilizer, as residential development progresses, the smell and dust from the compost becomes a nuisance to neighbors, and farmland has become smaller due to plans for large roads, so about 35 years ago, when he established a farm in Tomisato City, he focused on creating the soil that would serve as the foundation for his fields.

At that time, he used chicken manure as compost, mixing it with coffee grounds to create heat, but now he ferments horse manure and straw bedding from the JRA Miho Training Center.
This is because chicken manure contains a lot of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and other nutrients, making it a fast-acting fertilizer, but it also contains a lot of ammonia, which can have a negative effect on the roots if used continuously. On the other hand, the horse manure collected from the JRA Miho Training Center contains a large amount of straw used for stable bedding, and is characterized by its high plant-based organic matter content. This activates the soil microorganisms, and the soil improvement effect is very high. “I always use fertilizer. I try to design the fertilizer so that the pear trees can absorb it when they want to,” says Tanaka. As proof of this, the yield has not decreased, but rather increased.

Tanaka’s approach to farming has also changed. He now thinks about pears all the time, such as irrigating from spring to autumn and managing green branches, in order to suit the characteristics of each pear tree. “However, I still can’t touch insects (laughs). But at some point, I started to think that I wanted to be under the pear trees in the pear orchard, even if it was just for a day, an hour, or even a minute.” This is probably what moves Tanaka’s heart when he hears the voices of consumers saying how delicious the pears are.

Brings the autumn breeze to your mouth. Original varieties are also popular.

At Yosaemon, varieties such as Kosui, Hosui, Akizuki, Shinko, Kaori, and Oshu are cultivated. Selection of varieties is important in order to maintain the field area. The unique training method devised by the seventh generation owner allows the branches to be spaced widely apart, allowing light to reach each leaf, resulting in large, heavy, and juicy fruits. Normally, the water is drained during the harvest season, but here, irrigation is done throughout the year, which also leads to improved quality.

Tanaka has been working on improving varieties for about 10 years, cultivating Yosaemon’s original pears and selling them for the past three years. The original pears have a good reputation for being delicious, and there are many inquiries from consumers, but since there is only one original tree in the field, the yield is naturally limited. Currently, they are increasing the number of pears by grafting, and we look forward to many consumers receiving delicious pears as the original pear tree grows.

Enjoy it all year round

Generally, pears are harvested from August to early October, but depending on the variety and processed products, they can now be traded throughout the year.

They are particularly focusing on the “Oshu” variety, which starts coming out in October. It is a variety that keeps well and can be eaten until February of the following year if stored in the refrigerator. The slight sourness deepens in sweetness and sugar content as it is stored. “The sourness fades just enough, giving it an exquisite taste.” The high potential of “being delicious twice in one go” is the mainstay of sales.

And “Although pears are generally thought of as something to eat raw, we started making processed pear products about 10 years ago,” says Tanaka. Wanting to change the current situation where it is believed that pear cultivation alone is not enough to make a living, they are not only selling fresh produce, but are also trying to make processed products that can be sold all year round. Yosaemon’s pear brand, including “Arino Bi Confiture,” which won the gold medal in the direct sales category at the “Food Chiba Ippin wo Hakkutsu 2019,” 100% juice, jelly, dried fruit, and vinegar, are delivered all over the country.

The production of these processed products makes effective use of pears that do not meet Yosaemon’s unique standards, as well as fruit that is in the fourth or fifth year since planting, and is also a measure to reduce food waste.

Fusion of cutting-edge technology and tradition

In 2025, the company plans to introduce the AI ​​robot “Adam” developed by Kisui TECK, which is also based in Kashiwa City, Chiba Prefecture. The company is an agritech startup founded by Bloom Tamir, who studied robotics at UCLA and has been researching the application of reinforcement learning and AI technology for lunar rovers and exploration robots at the Space Robotics Laboratory at Tohoku University. The company is developing and deploying automated agricultural robots using its own knowledge and know-how to solve the problems faced by Japanese farmers.

Tanaka, who was originally concerned about the chronic labor shortage of farmers, has volunteered to become a role model for solving the problem by introducing this robot.

Adam is an electric transport robot with a loading platform of approximately 146 cm x 111 cm that can be driven autonomously, and can carry 12 harvesting containers of 20 kg. With the push of a button, it automatically travels between two points saved on a map, so harvested pears can be moved from the farm to the sorting area or shipping area without human intervention.

In addition, since the AI ​​can visually follow the worker, it is expected to be very useful in situations such as collecting branches, pruning, and spreading fertilizer. If the introduction of such equipment progresses in the future, the labor shortage on farms will likely be alleviated all at once.

Of course, it would be better if more people started farming, but we cannot expect too much. In that case, Tanaka believes that the option of “introducing cutting-edge technology to protect traditions” is also necessary.

A long-established farm that continues to evolve

Recently, there have been concerns about fluctuations in flowering, harvest seasons, and fruit quality due to the effects of global warming, but Tanaka says confidently, “Although some aspects are influenced by the environment, I don’t want to blame it on the environment. That would just mean that I haven’t put in the effort. I want to be able to make better pears, and offer them so that many people will say that Yosaemon pears are the only ones they can get.”

With an eye on the future of pears, Tanaka aims to make pears that many people will say are delicious. His work to make the finest pears is still on.

The post Sokichi Tanaka, the eighth generation owner of Yosaemon, who grows the finest pears in the best place in Japan first appeared on NIHONMONO.