Iseki Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. is one of Japan’s leading agricultural machinery manufacturers. Its founder, Kunisaburō Iseki, was born in Mima Village, Kita-Uwa District (now Uwajima City), a rural area known for producing delicious rice (Mima rice).

I want to free farmers from grueling labor

Ehime Prefecture is the birthplace of the company’s founder, Kunisaburō Iseki. The “ISEKI Dream Gallery” in Matsuyama City showcases the history and technology of Iseki Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. From a young age, Kunisaburō Iseki was involved in the family farming business. Farm work at that time was backbreaking labor, and he is said to have harbored a strong desire to “free farmers from grueling labor.” Amid an era of transition from manual labor to mechanization, driven by his passion for creating better products, he founded “Iseki Agricultural Tools Trading Company” in Matsuyama City in 1926. The first piece of agricultural machinery he developed was a “fully automatic rice hulling machine.” The company continued to contribute to the mechanization and modernization of agriculture, evolving into a business that supported postwar food production increases and Japan’s period of rapid economic growth.

Manufacturing from Matsuyama That’s Shaping the Future of Agriculture

In 1936, the company established a factory in Matsuyama City. Since then, it has developed and produced numerous agricultural machines that contributed to the mechanization and modernization of agriculture, supporting postwar food production increases and the period of rapid economic growth. In 1978, the Matsuyama Factory began production of large tractors. This factory, with its long history, continues to serve as the manufacturing division of the ISEKI Group’s agricultural machinery business under the name “ISEKI M&D Co., Ltd.” It serves as the core manufacturing hub within the ISEKI Group, providing manufacturing support for initiatives such as “Smart Agriculture” and “Environmentally Sustainable Agriculture.”

“As we transition from manual labor to mechanization, we want to build machinery that is truly useful. We continue to uphold our founder’s philosophy of ‘Let’s make quality products,’” says Masahiro Sakai, President and CEO of ISEKI M&D Co., Ltd.

The agricultural machinery manufactured by ISEKI M&D ranges widely from models for small-scale farms to high-output 130-horsepower tractors. The company handles a diverse lineup of products, including lawn mowers used overseas and ride-on maintenance machines that perform tasks such as weed control, pesticide and fertilizer application, and soil moisture retention. Because the company has established an integrated in-house production system—from parts machining to painting and assembly—it can quickly respond to the demand for a wide variety of products in small quantities, leading to the creation of products that are easy for farmers to use and affordable.

Smart Agriculture and an Integrated System for Vegetable Production Mechanization

The reality facing the agricultural sector is harsh. Due to the aging workforce and a shortage of successors, the number of workers is steadily declining. Tasks such as harvesting, planting, and crop management must be carried out intensively over short periods in accordance with the seasons and weather, making it impossible for the limited workforce to keep up. What is needed in these fields is agricultural machinery technology that can reliably ensure crop yields with minimal labor.

ISEKI is focusing on “Smart Agriculture,” which balances agricultural efficiency with environmental conservation. By leveraging the latest technologies—such as IT, sensors, GPS, and robotics—to enable operations tailored to crop conditions and field characteristics, the company achieves high productivity even with a limited workforce.

ISEKI also develops and manufactures tractors and robotic tractors equipped with smart agriculture technology. For example, GPS-based positioning assists tractors in maintaining a straight course within the field. This eliminates the need for operators to make frequent, precise steering adjustments, thereby reducing fatigue. Furthermore, robotic tractors contribute to improved operational efficiency by working in coordination with humans under human supervision.

In addition, the company developed “variable rate fertilization technology” in 2015, which adjusts fertilizer application rates based on field conditions. By minimizing fertilizer waste while reducing variations in crop growth and leading to stable quality and yields, the company aims to achieve both reduced environmental impact and improved productivity.

Around 1990, as mechanization advanced, the number of labor hours required for rice cultivation fell to one-fourth of what it had been in 1960, while the need for labor-saving measures in vegetable farming also grew. Compared to rice farming—where an integrated mechanization system involving rice transplanters, combine harvesters, and dryers was well established—vegetable farming at that time lagged behind in mechanization, creating a strong demand for reduced physical labor and labor savings. ISEKI is a company that has focused on developing an “integrated vegetable farming mechanization system,” beginning with the commercialization of the fully automatic vegetable transplanter “Nauel PV101.”

In fact, vegetable farming is characterized by significant regional variations in cultivation methods. Take green onions, for example: even when referred to simply as “long green onions,” the varieties and cultivation methods differ from region to region. There are also regional variations in ridge width and planting spacing, and ISEKI has developed machinery that allows farmers to adjust these settings to suit their specific region.

　Furthermore, the company has established an “Integrated Vegetable Production Mechanization System” by offering a full range of machinery and supplies compatible with a wide variety of crops, including daikon radishes, onions, cabbage, broccoli, taro, carrots, lettuce, edamame, green onions, and sweet potatoes. This system enables the consistent mechanization of the entire vegetable production process—from seedling cultivation to planting, management, harvesting, and sorting. This enables flexible adaptation to the production of multiple varieties in small quantities and to differences in growing conditions across regions, allowing for efficient farming operations with consistent quality even with a small workforce.

100 Years Since Our Founding: Connecting the Future of Agriculture Through Technology and People

Through continuous technological development aimed at solving real-world challenges on the farm, ISEKI holds approximately 2,200 patents, including technologies related to the development of agricultural machinery such as tractors, rice transplanters, and combine harvesters. The technical expertise the company has cultivated supports the evolution of smart agriculture and is transforming on-farm work into a more reliable and less burdensome process.

The new models manufactured by ISEKI M&D are a prime example of this. The company is also actively engaged in smart agriculture that leverages digital technologies such as GPS. These technologies support the agricultural know-how cultivated through many years of experience. For example, by having machines assist with precise tasks that skilled operators once performed intuitively, even less experienced operators can more easily perform work to a consistent standard. By using digital technology to pass down agricultural techniques—which have traditionally been handed down from person to person—to the next generation, the company is helping to address the shortage of workers and support the realization of sustainable agriculture.

Due to factors such as a declining workforce in the agricultural sector and the impacts of climate change, the number of workers on farms is decreasing. Improving efficiency and environmental considerations are essential. With the government’s “Green Food System Strategy” providing a tailwind, there is a growing demand for a shift toward sustainable agriculture, including labor-saving measures and organic farming.

ISEKI will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2026 and, as a company proud of its long history of technology and experience, is committed to addressing these challenges. The company develops large-scale, cutting-edge, field-crop, and eco-friendly agricultural machinery that balances labor-saving efficiency with environmental conservation. By expanding its range of eco-friendly technologies—including electrification—ISEKI supports highly productive and sustainable agriculture through high-quality agricultural machinery.

Furthermore, the company is dedicated to nurturing the next generation of engineers. We provide hands-on opportunities in design, manufacturing, and cutting-edge technology to hone problem-solving and decision-making skills, while also emphasizing the importance of learning from the technical expertise and wisdom cultivated over many years. The capabilities of the people and technology nurtured in this way directly contribute to agricultural efficiency and environmental consideration, supporting a more sustainable and prosperous agricultural sector. This approach to manufacturing—woven together by technology and people—will continue to bring new possibilities to agriculture.

The post Creating the Machinery of Our Dreams: A 100-Year-Old Company’s Vision for Agriculture and the Future. “Iseki Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. / ISEKI M&D Co., Ltd.” / Matsuyama City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In recent years, “seagrass die-off”—a phenomenon in which seaweed can no longer grow in the ocean due to rising sea temperatures—has become a global marine environmental issue. It is said that Japan’s natural seaweed beds are disappearing at a rate equivalent to 1,200 Tokyo Domes worth per year. Alarmed by this situation—in which the foundation of the marine ecosystem is being undermined, affecting the fishing industry as a whole—Kochi Prefecture-based “Sea Vegetable LLC” (hereinafter “Sea Vegetable”) launched the world’s first land-based cultivation of aonori using underground seawater in 2016. By expanding seaweed farms across the country in collaboration with local partners and actively pursuing both land-based and offshore cultivation, the company aims to preserve the richness of the ocean and the culinary culture centered on seaweed.

Cultivating Aonori, Which Disappeared from the Shimanto River, on Land

Kochi Prefecture is known for its intense sunlight streaming down from the blue sky and its warm climate. The prefecture has a narrow, east-west shape, with the Pacific Ocean to the south and the Shikoku Mountains towering to the north. At Sea Vegetable’s land-based facility, “Suji Aonori”—known as the highest-grade variety of aonori—is being cultivated using the world’s first land-based cultivation technology.

My deep love for the ocean, which I’ve felt since my college days

Co-founder Jun Hachiya, a native of Okayama Prefecture, conceived a business plan for “integrated aquaculture of abalone and seaweed using deep-sea water” while still a student at Kochi University. With the cooperation of co-founder Yuichi Tomohiro, he conducted demonstration research aimed at commercializing the project. Deep-sea water is seawater drawn from depths of 320 to 374 meters off the coast of Muroto in Kochi Prefecture; it maintains a stable, low temperature of approximately 10 degrees Celsius year-round.

Mr. Hachiya says he originally enjoyed diving into the ocean and catching fish he could see up close. “Every year, whenever I dived in the same spot, the number of fish visibly decreased. I realized that wherever fish gathered in large numbers, there was always seaweed, and driven by a desire to bring fish back to the ocean, I threw myself into seaweed research.”

Rising sea temperatures due to global warming have altered fish habitats and impacted Kochi Prefecture’s seaweed industry. The brackish water zone near the mouth of the Shimanto River—known as “Japan’s Last Pristine River”—where freshwater and seawater mix, was once the nation’s premier natural fishing ground for “suji aonori” (striped green laver), but by 2020, the catch had dropped to nearly zero. It is believed that the decline in catch is directly proportional to the rise in water temperature in the estuary.


Mr. Hachiya took action to revive the “suji aonori,” which could no longer be harvested naturally. He explained that his determination grew stronger as he thought, “If seaweed can no longer grow in the ocean, let’s grow it on land,” and “I want to take on this challenge to ensure that the culinary culture of seaweed does not die out.”

In a large tank built near the Pacific Ocean, blue-veined nori drifts about

When you visit Sea Vegetable’s land-based facility along the coast overlooking the Pacific Ocean, you’ll be amazed by the rows of massive circular tanks. The largest one has a diameter of about 25 meters—roughly the length of an elementary school swimming pool.

Suji aonori grows at an astonishingly fast rate; under the right conditions, it can double in size in a single day, and it’s said to possess such vitality that its appearance changes between morning and evening. The tanks come in four sizes, and about once a week, the grown Suji Aonori is transferred to larger tanks.

“There’s an ideal size for harvesting that’s considered the most delicious, so we designed these four sizes of circular tanks by working backward to ensure the seaweed grows to that size,” explains Mr. Hachiya.

Pump up the “underground seawater” and continue stirring

The tanks are filled with “underground seawater,” which reportedly maintains an ideal environment for seaweed growth throughout the year. Pumped from a depth of 20 meters underground, this “underground seawater” is naturally filtered as it passes through layers of sand and other geological strata from the ocean, ensuring clean water and a stable temperature. Furthermore, when it rains, freshwater mixes in, and on sunny days, photosynthesis flourishes. For seaweed that thrives in brackish waters where the sea and rivers meet, this location provides an environment close to nature.

Furthermore, the “groundwater” in the tanks circulated slowly in a circular pattern. Since striped green laver absorbs nutrients from the surface of its thallus and grows through photosynthesis, an environment with constant water flow and even light exposure is essential. Generally, seaweed grows normally by attaching itself to substrates such as stones or rocks using holdfasts, but here, the blue-striped laver is attached to one another. It spreads radially from the holdfasts—which function as roots—and is cultivated as it drifts through the water in a form resembling a bundle of fine threads, allowing it to grow to a uniform size.

Land-based cultivation, which holds potential different from that of marine cultivation

When I reached into the tank, the green suji aonori swayed gently and brushed against my fingertips. When I put it in my mouth raw, its fresh, vibrant green flavor spread throughout my mouth. I’ve heard that dried suji aonori turns a more vivid green and has a stronger aroma than the fresh variety. I’ve also heard that fresh suji aonori can be eaten as tempura, but either way, the natural, refreshing quality of the seaweed is sure to stand out.

Since suji aonori is widely distributed from Hokkaido to Okinawa, even within the same species, characteristics such as temperature tolerance and growth rate vary by region. When Sea Vegetable began land-based cultivation in Kochi, they focused not only on these characteristics but also on selecting elite strains with superior aroma and texture as food ingredients. They reportedly screened suji aonori from across the country and underwent a process of trial and error.

Next, I tried the eating method recommended by Mr. Hachiya. When I sprinkled powdered land-cultivated Suji Aonori onto a bag of lightly salted potato chips, I could taste the umami of the sea and experience its deep aroma. They say that growing it on land allows for meticulous nutritional management, resulting in a richer aroma and umami.

Looking Beyond Aonori: A Vision for the Future

Since seaweed reproduces via spores, the conditions for germination and growth vary by species. At Sea Vegetable, research is ongoing to identify the optimal cultivation methods while unraveling the characteristics of each individual species.

Black nori cultivation is now in full swing

They have also established a land-based cultivation technique for black nori, which has long been a cornerstone of Japanese food culture. They plan to successfully achieve mass production of black nori via land-based cultivation (300 kg or more in dried weight) by fiscal year 2025 and begin preparations for mass production starting in fiscal year 2026.

Mr. Hachiya stated, “There is a huge global market for black nori, so first, we want to establish the technology for land-based production and provide it to fishermen and companies in coastal areas who are losing their livelihoods, thereby creating new sources of income. At the same time, Japan has unique species of seaweed in each region, and quite a few are at risk of extinction. We are also considering raising seedlings for these species on land and releasing them back into the sea in their respective regions to establish aquaculture beds.” Ultimately, the goal is to restore the natural abundance of seaweed in the ocean.

However, per capita consumption of seaweed in Japan has fallen to about half of what it was 30 years ago, due to the diversification of the diet. Seaweed, which once naturally graced dining tables alongside traditional Japanese cuisine, is losing its presence as Western and Chinese cuisines become more widespread in daily life. Mr. Hachiya says, “The potential of seaweed isn’t limited to Japanese cuisine. Aonori goes well with pizza, and sprinkling it on potato chips releases a surprisingly rich aroma. I feel that the key to solving the problem of declining consumption lies precisely in genres we haven’t tried before, so I want to conduct various tests and share our findings.”

Develops Soy Sauce Made from Suji Aonori and Opens a Seaweed Specialty Store

One of their new challenges is “Aonori Soy Sauce,” made from Suji Aonori. This seasoning is produced by fermenting only aonori, salt, and rice—without using soybeans or wheat. It has a pale amber color. When tasted, the aroma of the sea fills the mouth, making it a perfect match for seafood. Because it is gluten-free and soy-free, the company receives many inquiries from overseas, and the product has become a symbol of the new value of seaweed.

Near Tokyo Station, we’ve opened “Sea Veg Stand,” a restaurant specializing in seaweed cuisine. It serves dishes like Suji Aonori Potatoes, dishes featuring “Mirin”—a rare red seaweed traditionally eaten in regions like Kumamoto—and ramen generously topped with seaweed, making it a hub that showcases the appeal of seaweed from multiple angles. This is where our effort to revive the “culture of eating seaweed” is beginning.

Researchers Hold the Key to Success

The lab is the key to Sea Vegetable’s business. It handles the most critical initial stage of land-based cultivation of Suji Aonori. Aonori harvested and cultivated at the lab is transferred to the land-based facility after about one month, where it is grown for another month before being harvested.

The mind-boggling task of sorting spores

“To succeed in land-based cultivation, the most important thing is to consistently harvest spores from the parent plants of striped green laver and raise them without letting them die,” says researcher Nigi. “If they die at that stage, there will naturally be nothing to send to the cultivation site. It’s crucial to remove anything—such as bacteria—that could harm the green laver spores and successfully raise them.”

The greatest challenge in cultivating Suji Aonori is maintaining the parent strains in a constantly healthy state to ensure a stable supply of spores throughout the year. It also involves the process of extracting spores from the parent strains and ensuring they grow stably without dying. To raise the spores healthily, it is necessary to thoroughly eliminate harmful impurities, such as bacteria, and maintain appropriate temperature control.

Holding a small petri dish, Mr. Nigi explains, “At first, they’re really just round specks about 10 microns in size.” Ten microns is 0.01 millimeters. Although the spores are invisible to the naked eye, they can be observed under a microscope, and after a few days, you can see them growing into the characteristic shape of aonori.

Nigi was performing a painstakingly delicate task, repeatedly and carefully using a pipette to aspirate the approximately 10-micron spores, isolating only the “high-purity spores.”

シーベジタブルを支える研究者

Furthermore, Mr. Nigi explains, “The harvest season for natural nori runs from fall through early spring; since growth stops in the summer, it wasn’t suitable for harvesting. However, to maximize the utilization of our facilities for land-based cultivation, we need to grow a combination of strains with different temperature tolerances. So, even within the same ‘Suji Aonori’ variety, we’ve tested about 100 different strains from Hokkaido to Okinawa to find the most suitable ones.”

Generally, land-based cultivation involves significant capital investment and operating costs, making profitability crucial. That is precisely why selecting strains that are resilient to environmental conditions and grow efficiently is the key to establishing this as a viable industry. Researchers are tackling this challenge as they strive to pave the way for the future of seaweed cultivation.

When seaweed returns, the future of the ocean will change

Seaweed forms the foundation of the marine ecosystem. As natural seaweed beds decline, a research report by the Good Sea General Incorporated Association reveals surprising results: using seedlings grown on land for offshore cultivation can increase fish populations by up to approximately 36 times compared to uncultivated waters.

As seaweed increases, fish return, and the ocean regains its abundance. Seaweed cultivation is not only a way to preserve our food culture but also an initiative that supports the future of the ocean. Sea Vegetable aims to become a reliable force—extending beyond the borders of Japan—to pass on a bountiful ocean to the next generation.

The post “Sea Vegetable LLC,” based in Kochi City, Kochi Prefecture, aims to preserve seaweed culinary traditions and the richness of the ocean through the world’s first land-based cultivation of aonori using underground seawater. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

There is no doubt that high-quality ingredients are one of the key elements that make a star chef’s dish stand out. In Amakusa City, Kumamoto Prefecture, there is a fishmonger who serves as the expert eye behind this. His philosophy is to select the very best fish and live up to the chefs’ trust, while also keeping the livelihoods of local fishermen in mind. The man who bridges the sea and the kitchen is Mitsuteru Honda.

料理人を通して、天草の魚の価値を再認識

Mr. Honda has always loved fish and used to work at a local fish market. He was influenced by a chef from the Kansai region he met there, which made him realize the importance of experiencing the “outside” world. “Because Amakusa is an island, I rarely had the chance to leave it,” Mr. Honda said. “But as I began seeing fish from other regions and dining at famous restaurants, I felt my world expanding.” He felt a sense of pride upon learning that the fish from Amakusa, where he was born and raised, were being recognized by chefs.

At the same time, however, he also realized the reality that it is difficult to sell fish at high prices when selling locally. The number of fishermen in Japan is on the decline, particularly among younger generations, and the harsh business environment is cited as a major factor. “I thought that if I could find customers willing to pay a fair price, I would be able to buy fish from the fishermen at a higher price as well. I believed that doing so would help support the livelihoods of local fishermen,” he said.

Becoming independent to support the livelihoods of fishermen

He later left the fish market to open his own shop, “Honda-ya.” When he opened the shop, he reportedly received passionate encouragement from chefs he had known since his days working at the fish market, who told him, “It doesn’t matter how much it costs—just get us the best fish!” He then held numerous discussions with local fishermen and established a partnership to ensure the final quality by improving the quality of primary processing—such as temperature control immediately after the catch.

Look at all the fish at the market and bid on only the best ones

The Amakusa Islands, located in southwestern Kumamoto Prefecture, consist of 120 islands of various sizes. At the fish market in Hondō, Amakusa City—located at the heart of the archipelago—3 to 5 metric tons of fish are delivered daily from three fishing grounds: the Ariake Sea, the Shiranui Sea, and the East China Sea. On busy days, the market receives as many as 300 different species. At 7:00 a.m., the live fish auction begins, and the spirited voices of the auctioneers and middlemen ring out in unison. Mr. Honda, with a calm demeanor, confidently bids on and wins the fish he has his eye on, one after another, without hesitation.

Rather than targeting specific fish, Mr. Honda’s approach is to examine all the fish available at the market that day and purchase every one he deems to be of high quality. Conversely, it is also part of Mr. Honda’s philosophy that even if a chef has placed an order for a specific species, he will not bid on it if the quality does not meet his standards, and will simply tell the chef, “We don’t have it.” This is because, ultimately, it does not serve the chefs’ best interests to lower quality standards just to source a particular species. Mr. Honda’s honest approach and keen eye for quality have earned him a strong reputation, and he enjoys the deep trust of “star chefs” who have earned stars in the Michelin Guide, including “Shimazu,” a hard-to-book sushi restaurant in Tokyo; “Sushi Sanshin,” one of Kansai’s premier establishments; and “pesceco,” a restaurant in Nagasaki.

To the chef, in the best possible condition

Furthermore, Mr. Honda is particular about how the fish are handled at the restaurant. Immediately after being caught, fish are in a state of excitement; lactic acid and blood flow into their muscles, which degrades their flavor, and their flesh becomes firm and tight due to stress. For this reason, live fish purchased are first transported to the restaurant’s holding tanks and allowed to rest until their stress subsides. He then calculates the time it will take for the fish to reach the chefs and personally performs the nerve-cutting and bleeding procedures himself. “My job is to deliver the very best fish to the chefs. It’s not just a matter of winning the bid and sending them off—I have a responsibility to hand over fish that have been prepared to be in their optimal condition,” says Mr. Honda.

On this day, Mr. Honda prepared three types of sashimi for us to taste: grouper, Ishigaki sea bream, and yellowtail. Aged for about a week, the fat had melded so deeply into the flesh that it practically repelled the soy sauce, and we were amazed by the flavor—a true concentration of umami. It’s no wonder that fishermen and chefs from all over the country visit his shop to learn from Mr. Honda’s knowledge and techniques, such as how to condition live fish and how to properly prepare them.

Supporting fishermen also helps protect the ocean.

“In the past, it was all about selling as much as possible, but things are different now. Due to various factors, the marine food web has collapsed; the seaweed and plankton that serve as food sources have declined, and fish populations are shrinking,” says Mr. Honda. As a result, fish prices have been rising year after year, and he fears that if this trend continues, fish will become a food item accessible only to a select few who can afford it.

Mr. Honda believes that if we can create a society where high-quality fish are traded at fair prices, fishermen will be able to earn a fair income. He believes this will not only prevent overfishing but also ensure that the fishing industry is passed down to the next generation, ultimately helping to preserve our rich oceans. The opening of “Honda-ya” was the first step toward realizing that vision.

In 2026, “Honda-ya” will mark its 10th anniversary. Mr. Honda’s eyes sparkle as he says, “I can feel the circle of people I’ve connected with—all because of this work—expanding year by year.”

His discerning eye at the market, his dialogue with fishermen, and his sense of responsibility toward chefs.

Each of these small steps has become a path leading him, little by little, toward the future he has envisioned: “a society where fish is traded at a fair price.” Looking ahead, Mr. Honda expresses his desire to continue meeting artisans from various fields and learning from them. Ten years after opening, the journey of “Honda-ya”—which was meant to be just a “first step”—is now transforming into a tangible sense of accomplishment. Today, as always, Mr. Honda stands between the sea and the kitchen, constantly thinking about what he can do to prepare for the next decade.

The post A fish connoisseur who has earned the unwavering trust of star chefs. Mitsuteru Honda of “Honda-ya” / Amakusa City, Kumamoto Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Otawara City in Tochigi Prefecture ranks first in the prefecture for rice production. Among its producers, Masahide Akutsu of Akutsu Farm boasts a track record of awards at the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition” and has received numerous other accolades, including certification as “Toyo Rice World’s Best Rice 2022.” Given that rice from Tochigi Prefecture is not particularly well-known, why is the rice produced by Mr. Akutsu so highly regarded?

Land Suitable for Rice Production: Otawara City

Otawara City is located on a vast alluvial fan in the Nasu region of northern Tochigi Prefecture, known as “Nasuno-gahara.” It is home to the Nasu Irrigation Canal, one of Japan’s three major irrigation canals. The water flowing from the Nasu mountain range is groundwater rich in minerals. Thanks to this abundant water source, the area is well-suited for rice cultivation.

Of course, it’s not just about the water. The area has fertile soil, and its climate—with sufficient temperature and sunlight in summer to promote rice growth and winter cold that suppresses pest infestations—combined with a flat terrain that facilitates water management and allows for the development of large-scale rice paddies, has made it a prime rice-growing region.

The name “Otawara City” is said to derive from “O-tawara” (large rice bale), reflecting the fact that this has long been a region with a thriving rice production industry.

Rice from Tochigi Prefecture: High on the Rice Production Rankings, Yet Little Known

According to data on “Crop Conditions and Yields of Paddy and Upland Rice by Season (by Agricultural Region and Prefecture Nationwide)” released by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries in 2021, Tochigi Prefecture ranks eighth nationwide in rice production by yield. However, rice produced in Tochigi is not particularly well known. This is because the prefecture capitalizes on its proximity to the Tokyo metropolitan area, with rice for commercial use being the mainstay of its production.

Commercial rice refers to rice used in restaurant chains, convenience store bento boxes, and school lunches—not the rice sold for home use in supermarkets and other retail outlets. Although we have many opportunities to consume it, we rarely see the place of origin or brand name when eating it, which makes it difficult for “Tochigi rice” to gain widespread recognition.

In fact, according to 2017 data from the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, Tochigi ranked first among the top 10 prefectures with the highest proportion of sales for commercial use, with nearly 70 percent of its rice sales going to that sector.

A region that isn’t well-known but produces delicious rice

Mr. Akutsu grows rice in this environment. Since his family ran a farm, he began working in agriculture after graduating from college—and it’s been about 20 years since then. He has now succeeded his father, with whom he currently grows rice, becoming the fifth-generation farmer.

The turning point came about eight years ago when he entered the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Contest” for the first time.

Although Mr. Akutsu was aware of the competition’s existence, he had never entered it until then. However, he says he had a firm confidence that “the rice from this region is delicious”—and above all, that “the rice from my own farm, which I eat every day, is even more delicious!” So, upon learning that anyone could enter, he recalls thinking, “If I enter, maybe I’ll win a prize?” and submitted his entry with a lighthearted attitude.

However, in 2016—his first year of entry—at the “18th Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition,” he immediately won the Special Excellence Award in the “Prefectural Representative Rice Championship” category. He was particular about the Koshihikari he grew and had confidence in it. While he thought, “See? If I enter, I can win after all,” he also sensed the limits of achieving a top ranking with “Koshihikari.”

This is because Koshihikari is the most widely cultivated variety in Japan, so the number of entries in the competition is overwhelmingly high, with producers from all over the country flocking to submit their rice. Just as he was feeling that “it would be difficult to aim any higher with Koshihikari,” he began searching for “something else” on his own—and that’s when he discovered “Yudai 21.”

My Encounter with “Yudai 21,” a Variety Developed at Utsunomiya University

Around that time, the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition” began awarding the Gold Prize in the International General Category to a variety called “Yudai 21.”

Yudai 21 is a rice variety developed at a national university; it was created over a period of 20 years from a rice plant discovered by chance at the farm affiliated with the Faculty of Agriculture at Utsunomiya University in Tochigi Prefecture, and was registered as a variety in 2010. Although it is considered difficult to cultivate—as the plants grow tall and are prone to lodging, and fertilizer and water management require delicate care and technical skill—it truly shines in environments where careful attention can be given, such as in mid-mountainous areas, and is a variety capable of achieving yields and quality on par with or exceeding those of Koshihikari. Furthermore, Yudai 21 has a strong sweetness and a rich, distinctive flavor, leading us to intuitively recognize its potential for acceptance among general consumers. Consequently, we decided to begin cultivating Yudai 21 the following year (2017).

Initiatives Undertaken Before the Creation of Yudai 21

Even before establishing Yudai 21, Mr. Akutsu had become increasingly determined to “grow rice without using pesticides” and had been working toward pesticide-free cultivation. He says this effort was inspired by his desire to help alleviate his family’s allergies.

Pesticide-free cultivation—which involves the arduous task of weeding—took some time to gain the understanding of his father, the previous generation of farmers, but by starting with a small plot of land, he gradually earned his father’s approval.

Yudai 21 is also adopting pesticide-free farming practices

Given this background, Yudai 21 began cultivation on 3 tanbo (roughly the size of 12 tennis courts) without using any pesticides.

The farm gradually increased its production, and by the fourth year of cultivation, it was growing Yudai 21 on more than half of the approximately 4 hectares dedicated to rice for staple food consumption.

Why Is “Yudai 21,” Made by Mr. Akutsu, So Delicious?

Yudai 21 is characterized by its large, glossy grains and attractive appearance. When tasted, it is praised for its rich umami flavor and well-balanced taste, with a sweetness that becomes more pronounced the more you chew.

Demand has been growing year by year as people who have actually tasted it say it’s “delicious,” and Akutsu Farm is reportedly expanding its cultivation area every year.

Why “Akutsu Farm” Was Chosen, Even Among Highly Rated Varieties

As mentioned earlier, Otawara City, where Akutsu Farm is located, is an ideal region for growing rice. It is said that when nighttime temperatures drop, the rice absorbs nutrients that enhance its flavor and transports them to the ears.

Akutsu Farm is surrounded by mountains and sits at an elevation of 200 meters. The significant temperature difference between day and night is believed to influence the flavor. Additionally, water is drawn into the rice paddies from the nearby Sabi River; for about 4 km upstream from Akutsu Farm, this river flows underground. As a result, the water can be drawn into the paddies while it is still cold, and this low water temperature helps lower the nighttime air temperature, which is said to further enhance the flavor.

Furthermore, Akutsu Farm’s rice paddies are situated on a river floodplain, where the soil is rich in minerals and highly fertile—a factor that likely makes the already delicious “Yudai 21” even more flavorful.

Pesticide-free cultivation has maximized the potential of Yudai 21

But that’s not all. Mr. Akutsu’s commitment to pesticide-free farming is likely another reason.

He says the most difficult part of pesticide-free farming is weed control.

To make weed control possible, he spaces the plants farther apart so that weeds can be removed from both the front and back. While typically 50 seedlings are planted per tsubo, the pesticide-free “Yudai 21” variety uses a “37-seedling-per-tsubo” planting method, reducing the number of plants by about 40 percent.

With this sparse planting method, the wider spacing between plants creates a V-shaped space where the ears of rice spread out, allowing sunlight to reach even the leaves at the base of the plants. Additionally, because nutrients are distributed more evenly, the ears are more likely to grow large.

Furthermore, the improved airflow between plants makes it harder for diseases such as “rice blast” and “sheath blight” to take hold, resulting in the production of robust rice plants.

Of course, no herbicides are used; instead, natural substances such as yeast, natto bacteria, and lemongrass extract—which repels insects—are sprayed to achieve pesticide-free cultivation. Even so, depending on the season, Mr. Akutsu enters the rice paddies every day to weed by hand.

Mr. Akutsu’s “Yudai 21,” cultivated with great care and effort, has earned high praise and is supplied to stores such as Mitsukoshi, Isetan, and The Ritz-Carlton Nikko. In 2025, it began being carried by “the rice factory,” a specialty store for Japanese rice with locations in New York and Los Angeles.

Demand for pesticide-free rice is particularly high overseas, and Mr. Akutsu’s efforts are highly regarded.

“Yudai 21” has been highly acclaimed since its first year of cultivation

Yudai 21, produced by Akutsu Farm, won the Gold Award in the Prefectural Division of the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition” in its very first year of production.

The following year, it received the Special Excellence Award in the International Comprehensive Division—the competition’s highest category—and in its fourth year, at the “23rd Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition,” it won the Gold Award in the International Comprehensive Division. From among the brown rice varieties that won Gold Awards at the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition,” this rice was certified as part of the “Toyo Rice World’s Best Rice 2022” program—organized by Toyo Rice, a comprehensive rice manufacturer famous for its “Kinme Rice”—which carefully selects the highest-grade brown rice based on its own criteria emphasizing “deliciousness and vitality.” As a result, the farm became one of only four producers nationwide to be selected as a supplier of raw rice for the world’s best rice.

The Evangelist of Yudai 21

It is reported that Utsunomiya University—the creator of “Yudai 21”—plans to partner with municipalities and other entities to use “Yudai 21” for town revitalization efforts.

Mr. Akutsu has been appointed as the “Yudai 21 Evangelist” by Utsunomiya University and will be responsible for sharing cultivation methods and other knowledge with local farmers.

It would be wonderful if “Yudai 21” served as a catalyst for raising the profile of Tochigi-grown rice nationwide, leading to increased attention for all rice produced in Tochigi Prefecture—regardless of variety.

To that end, Mr. Akutsu—embracing both the title and responsibility of “ambassador”—continues his outreach efforts today, hoping that people will “try ‘Yudai 21,’ a rice variety with a unique flavor unlike any other.”

The post Masahide Akutsu of “Akutsu Farm,” Who Grows Rice Using the “Yudai 21” Variety Developed in Tochigi / Otawara City, Tochigi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In the mountainous region of Yabakei Town in northern Oita Prefecture—where rugged rocky mountains and clear streams intertwine—lush green tea fields stretch out. Tetsuya Kawatani, the second-generation owner of “Kawatani-en Tea Farm,” oversees every aspect of the business here, from tea cultivation to sales. He was the first person west of Shizuoka to be awarded the title of “Tea Sage” and is recognized as a leading figure in Oita’s tea industry.

Cultivating tea on mountain land as part of a government initiative

The history of tea production at Kawatani-en began in Showa 49. Originally, Mr. Kawatani’s grandfather primarily engaged in mountain work, such as charcoal burning and shiitake mushroom cultivation. Then, around the time his father took over the family business, a government initiative led to the introduction of tea cultivation. Recognizing that the mountain work of his grandfather’s generation yielded low profits, Mr. Kawatani’s father began cultivating the newly cleared land, which marked the start of the family’s involvement in the tea industry. Initially, they cultivated only three or four varieties, including “Yabukita,” which accounts for approximately 70 to 80 percent of Japan’s tea fields. However, after Mr. Kawatani entered the industry and studied tea varieties extensively, he began sourcing various cultivars. As a result, the farm now cultivates a total of eight varieties: seven main varieties—Saemidori, Asatsuyu, Asanoka, Harumidori, Yabukita, Okumidori, and Sakimidori—plus a small amount of Benifuki.

The Challenge to “Asatsuyu,” Which Even Experts Vehemently Opposed

Among them, there is one variety that symbolizes Mr. Kawatani’s passion for tea cultivation. It is “Asatsuyu,” also known as “Natural Gyokuro” for its overwhelming umami and vivid green color. To experts, growing this extremely delicate and cold-sensitive variety in Yabakei—where winters are bitterly cold—seemed “reckless,” and he reportedly faced fierce opposition even from the researchers at the experimental station. Nevertheless, Mr. Kawatani believed in the potential of tea nurtured by Yabakei’s natural environment and took that first step.

“My father was still in good health at the time, but the fact that the professor flatly told us, ‘It’s impossible,’ actually ignited our rebellious spirit—that was one of the reasons we decided to go ahead with cultivation,” says Mr. Kawatani.

Kawatani-en is located at an elevation of approximately 550 meters. While areas with significant temperature fluctuations between day and night are considered ideal for tea cultivation, if it gets so cold that frost sets in, the leaves will be ruined. Kawatani-en lies right on the edge of that ideal range, and the tea plants do occasionally suffer frost damage. However, Mr. Kawatani explains, “Tea leaves grown in harsh environments develop into mellow, fragrant buds of exceptional quality.” The characteristic of Asatsuyu tea—its sensitivity to cold—can also be viewed as the potential to accumulate incredible sweetness and richness once it survives a harsh winter. Adversity, in other words, gives rise to the depth of its flavor.

A Commitment to Fertilizers That Build on Tradition and Have Evolved Through Science

Alongside his exploration of tea varieties, Mr. Kawatani has devoted his efforts to soil cultivation. Good soil is essential for growing high-quality tea. And while fertilizer—which provides nutrients—is indispensable for creating good soil, in his father’s day, perilla seed cake, rapeseed meal, and fish meal were each spread separately on the fields, and a nitrogen fertilizer called ammonium sulfate was applied separately to promote new growth. However, as the cultivation area expanded and Mr. Kawatani took sole responsibility for fertilization, he realized the difficulty of handling everything separately. That’s when he came up with the idea of mixing all the materials together from the start to create a single fertilizer. Around the same time, his father told him, “You can do whatever you like with the fertilizer’s ingredients,” which served as a turning point, and about five years ago, he took the plunge into creating his own blend.

The formula Mr. Kawatani arrived at incorporates two major innovations. The first is the use of fish meal and bone meal—which contain fish innards and bones—instead of the conventional fish trimmings. He explains that this is to infuse the soil with complex minerals and umami compounds. The second is the addition of liquid nitrogen at –196°C to the fertilizer to supplement the nitrogen essential for plant growth. The result is Mr. Kawatani’s unique blended fertilizer, composed almost entirely of organic materials.

Furthermore, he has incorporated “Soluble,” a liquid fertilizer, to promote the sprouting of new tea buds. Soluble is an organic liquid fertilizer rich in minerals and amino acids, made by concentrating fish broth. Mr. Kawatani says he feels the depth and richness of the tea’s flavor have changed compared to the ammonium sulfate he used previously. “However, Soluble does have a strong odor. Since it’s made from simmered fish broth, if it gets on your skin, it won’t come off no matter how much you wash it for about two days. If it gets on your hands, the taste is so strong that everything you eat will taste like it,” Mr. Kawatani said with a laugh.

While cherishing tradition, each cup of tea from Kawatani-en—refined through scientific curiosity—embodies the harsh climate of Yabakei and Mr. Kawatani’s unwavering determination to overcome its challenges.

The Art of Hand-Kneading: A Dedication to Continuity

Kawatani-en also offers hand-rolled tea. This hand-rolled tea, which is produced entirely by hand without the use of any machinery, is said to have been devised in the mid-Edo period by Nagatani Sōen, a tea merchant from Uji, Kyoto. The process takes approximately six hours: after steaming the tea leaves to soften them, the tea master stands for the entire duration, manually loosening, rolling, and kneading the leaves before drying them to complete the process. The finished tea leaves are long and slender, like needles, and because they are not subjected to excessive force by machines, they are said to return to their original shape when placed in hot water. The color of the brewed tea is extremely pale, and while a milky white hue is considered the highest quality for hand-rolled tea, when sipped, a rich umami flavor spreads across the palate that is unimaginable given its pale color. Due to the labor-intensive nature of the process, mass production is impossible, and because it requires highly skilled craftsmanship—leading to a dwindling number of tea rollers—hand-rolled tea commands an extremely high price when it reaches the market.

Mr. Kawatani first encountered hand-rolled tea at the age of 19, after graduating from high school, while training as an intern at the National Research Institute of Agricultural Sciences. One of his fellow trainees there was Tsuyoshi Nakajima, who would later win the national hand-rolled tea competition eight times and become the first person in Japan to be awarded the title of “Perpetual Tea Master.” The two men, who were the same age, honed their skills through friendly competition, and eventually, Mr. Kawatani also began competing in the contest. In 2011, he won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award (First Place) and was awarded the title of “Tea Sage”—the first person from west of Shizuoka to receive this honor.

Why does Mr. Kawatani continue to produce hand-rolled tea, a labor-intensive process that cannot be mass-produced? The answer lies in his regrets from the past. He has missed the competition twice. The first time was when he suffered a sudden back spasm on the morning of the hand-rolling event; the second was when he began to feel a sense of resignation about continuing the practice. However, Mr. Kawatani says that for every moment of relief he felt from skipping the competition, he felt about 50 to 60 moments of regret, thinking, “I really should have participated after all.” It’s not about the results of the competition; it’s about doing the hand-rolling to intuitively confirm the quality of that year’s tea—the fact that skipping the competition actually made him realize the true significance of hand-rolling is what continues to drive Mr. Kawatani toward hand-rolled tea to this day.

“Tea that truly tastes like tea”—all in a single cup

In addition to hand-rolled tea, Kawatani-en offers a wide range of products, including sencha, deep-steamed tea, and hojicha—many of which were developed in response to customer feedback.

The flavor Mr. Kawatani strives for is “tea that truly tastes like tea.” When people talk about “delicious tea,” they often tend to focus on teas with a strong sweetness, and many people in general also describe such sweet teas as “delicious.” Mr. Kawatani himself once went through a phase where he relentlessly pursued sweetness, as if to respond to that sentiment. However, he could not shake his doubts about continuing to compete in that market, so he changed his approach. He sought a flavor that was not merely sweet, but also featured a crisp astringency and a refreshing finish. Setting that taste as his ideal, he arrived at the premium deep-steamed tea “Midori.” “Midori” is also the first tea he processes each year. Since he compares it with the previous year’s batch to find a blend that satisfies him, it takes at least two weeks from the time the new tea leaves are picked until the product is ready for sale. In today’s world of advanced logistics, where tea shops near the production areas can sometimes have products on the shelves just 3 to 5 days after picking, two weeks may seem extremely long—but it is the very embodiment of Mr. Kawatani’s dedication.

On the other hand, despite having long decided “not to make it,” there are some products we’ve added to our lineup after giving in to customer requests. One such product is genmaicha. While green tea is typically sold in packages of 50g or 100g, genmaicha is often sold in large quantities, such as 500g or 1kg. With that much on hand, once you buy genmaicha, you end up drinking nothing but genmaicha for quite a while, and your opportunities to drink green tea decrease—in Mr. Kawatani’s words, you get stuck in a “negative genmaicha loop.” Although he had maintained a firm stance against making genmaicha out of concern for this, after receiving passionate requests, he came to the conclusion, “Why not just use the brown rice we grow ourselves?” and decided to produce it.

The result is a product named “my Genmai.” What surprises you when you open the bag is that there isn’t a single green tea leaf inside. Literally, it contains “nothing but brown rice” that has been carefully roasted until fragrant and crisp. He deliberately avoids mixing it with green tea. This “aesthetics of subtraction” has created a level of freedom that overturns conventional wisdom about genmaicha. If you want to enjoy it as genmaicha, you’ll need to prepare the green tea yourself. With “my Genmai,” Mr. Kawatani’s concern that “people will drink less green tea once they start drinking genmaicha” has been resolved. Furthermore, by proposing new ways to use it—such as in salads or ochazuke (rice topped with tea) instead of croutons or rice crackers—the product has effortlessly transcended the traditional image of genmaicha. He has also developed a stick-type powdered genmaicha that dissolves in both hot water and cold water, which has also been well received.

Powdered tea is being adopted by gelato shops in Tokyo and chiffon cake classes in Chiba, among other places, leading to the development of a new consumer base that extends beyond simply drinking it. “The fact that it’s not limited to just drinking makes me feel that tea is still a product with a lot of potential,” Mr. Kawatani said, his eyes narrowing in a smile.

I want to raise the level of play in Kyushu and develop young players.

When it comes to famous tea-producing regions, Shizuoka and Sayama (in Saitama Prefecture) are the first places that come to mind. The name “Oita” rarely comes to the forefront. Mr. Kawatani candidly admits that if he were growing tea in the heart of one of those major producing regions, he wouldn’t stand a chance against the competition. “I’m confident that, in Kyushu today, I’m the only one capable of producing hand-rolled tea of this caliber. However, when it comes to national tea competitions, there are times when I simply can’t compete. At times like that, I’m painfully aware of just how far Kyushu still has to go,” says Mr. Kawatani. Of course, Kyushu does have cities like Yame and Ureshino that rank highly in national tea competitions. However, that’s in categories other than hand-rolled tea. When it comes to hand-rolled tea, they fall far short of regions like Sayama. 

That is precisely why Mr. Kawatani is so committed to raising the standard of tea production in Kyushu and nurturing the next generation of tea makers. To enter tea competitions, one must belong to a national organization, but since Oita Prefecture lacks such an organization, Mr. Kawatani himself belongs to an organization based in Yame, Fukuoka Prefecture. There is a young person in Yame who is currently developing his skills. A project to revitalize the Kyushu hand-rolled tea community—a collaboration between Mr. Kawatani and this young person—is now getting underway. Mr. Kawatani earnestly envisions a future where each prefecture in Kyushu nurtures one tea producer capable of making a name for themselves nationwide, and where Kyushu producers consistently win top prizes at tea competitions.

Hearing the words “That’s delicious” fills me with energy

My father, the founder of Kawatani-en, passed away in 2022. While he was alive, he had a goal of “doing what I can at 80 percent effort,” but now that I’m handling the family business entirely on my own, I’ve come to realize all too well that I have to give 100 or even 120 percent just to keep up. It’s by no means easy. However, every time I hear fellow industry professionals or customers say, “Kawatani-en’s tea is delicious,” I feel a surge of energy. The market is changing rapidly, and there’s no single “right” path, but he will continue to experiment flexibly—including with flavor profiles. Mr. Kawatani describes this mindset as “the battle continues until the tea reaches the customer’s mouth.”

The reality is that, under pressure from bottled green tea drinks, an increasing number of tea producers are giving up on selling loose tea leaves and shifting toward factories dedicated to beverage production. However, Mr. Kawatani takes issue with this trend. “I went to school and studied tea in depth, didn’t I?” he says. Unlike vegetables, the retail price of tea is unlikely to experience a major collapse. If that’s the case, there must be a way for the farmers who grow the tea leaves—not the wholesalers or company presidents—to turn a profit. He has consistently maintained this view, calling on his colleagues: “There must still be a way for producers to succeed. Let’s figure it out.”

During a training program after high school graduation, he and his classmates joked about a shared dream: “Let’s make it big enough that we can all drive Mercedes-Benzes to our class reunion.” It has been about 25 years since then. That dream has now deepened into a desire to “make money together, be happy together, and bring happiness to everyone around us as well.” He wants to bring happiness to people through tea production. Mr. Kawatani’s tea continues to be produced today in the mountain tea fields, born from that very passion.

The post The simple phrase “It’s delicious” is what drives his tea cultivation. Tetsuya Kawatani of “Kawatani-en Tea Farm,” Nakatsu City, Oita Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Yamada Town is located roughly in the center of Iwate Prefecture’s coastline. Because it faces the Pacific Ocean, it is strongly associated with fishing, but the town is also known for its log-grown shiitake mushrooms, and almost every year, farmers from the town have won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award at national competitions. Eizo Haga, one of only a handful of renowned experts in this field nationwide, is considered a pioneer in the cultivation of log-grown shiitake mushrooms in Yamada Town.

A cool climate and lush mountains nurture log-grown shiitake mushrooms

Yamada Town, located in Shimohei District, Iwate Prefecture, is a town embraced by nature, with the Pacific Ocean to the east and the Kitakami Mountains stretching to the west. Because the mountains are rich in broadleaf trees such as beech, oak, and red pine, the area is ideal for growing shiitake mushrooms on logs, and shiitake cultivation is thriving here. Since log-grown shiitake mushrooms prefer locations that are sheltered from direct sunlight, well-ventilated, and have moderate humidity, the mountainous forest environment—where vegetation provides shade, the cool climate at higher elevations, and the moisture released by trees’ respiration help maintain optimal conditions—is ideal.

Incidentally, shiitake mushrooms are classified as “log-grown shiitake” or “substrate-grown shiitake” depending on the cultivation method, and most fresh shiitake mushrooms sold in supermarkets are substrate-grown. The reason for this is that substrate-grown shiitake are cultivated by artificially adding nutrients to blocks of compressed sawdust, allowing them to be harvested in 3 to 6 months—a growth rate nearly four times faster than that of log-grown shiitake. Furthermore, as long as the necessary facilities are in place, they can be grown anywhere and are not affected by the climate, resulting in stable production volumes.

On the other hand, log-grown shiitake mushrooms are cultivated by inoculating natural logs with spawn, so they rely solely on the nutrients from the wood and take time to grow. While it is possible to cultivate them indoors as long as you have the logs for inoculation, log-grown shiitake mushrooms that have been carefully cultivated in a natural environment with optimal conditions are said to have a particularly rich flavor and thicker caps.

In Yamada Town, these log-grown shiitake mushrooms are often dried and processed into dried shiitake mushrooms (hoshishitake). Among dried shiitake mushrooms, those with large, well-shaped caps are highly prized as gifts and high-end ingredients. 

Dried shiitake mushrooms from Yamada Town—a premium ingredient

Dried shiitake mushrooms have several names. “Hana-donko” refers to mushrooms with white, flower-like cracks on the surface of the cap; due to their beautiful appearance, they are often used as gifts. “Kōshin” refers to mushrooms with caps that are more open than those of standard donko and have gills; because they produce a rich broth, they are highly valued in simmered dishes and the like. The Zen-Noh Dried Shiitake Mushroom Competition features categories such as “Kōshin (medium-leaf, thick-fleshed),” “Hana-donko,” and “Donko,” with entries judged based on color, shape, and size.

Dried shiitake mushrooms that win awards at these competitions are used as premium ingredients in hotels and traditional Japanese restaurants. Yamada Town’s dried shiitake mushrooms, prized for both their appearance and flavor, are in high demand among chefs and sushi masters.

As a master of log-grown shiitake mushrooms

Eizo Haga, a master of log-grown shiitake mushrooms, has established a mushroom workshop in the Toyamane district—located inland within Yamada Town—where he cultivates log-grown shiitake mushrooms. In the fall, he heads into the mountains to forage for matsutake mushrooms as well. The matsutake mushrooms gathered by Mr. Haga, who knows the mountains well, are renowned for their high quality, and he is known among locals as the “Mushroom Master.”

Mr. Haga began cultivating log-grown shiitake mushrooms in 1983, when he was about 38 years old. He won his first Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award at a national competition when he was 49. Since then, he has won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award five times in the “Hanadonko” category. Having become a regular recipient of the highest honors, Mr. Haga was awarded the title of “Master.” Since then, he has continued to enter competitions in various categories and has accumulated numerous awards.

Cultivating log-grown shiitake mushrooms using the abundant oak trees in Yamada Town

Mr. Haga’s log-grown shiitake mushrooms are cultivated both outdoors and in greenhouses. The logs used to inoculate the shiitake spores are made from Japanese oak. Broadleaf trees, not conifers, are best suited for these logs. While oak is commonly used in other prefectures, there are no oak trees growing in the forests of Yamada Town; however, since Japanese oak is abundant there, that is the wood used. Japanese oak also has a characteristic bark with cracks, making it easier to inoculate with shiitake spawn. Mr. Haga says, “Some places cultivate shiitake using other broadleaf trees, but even after trying them, shiitake grown on Japanese oak still tastes the best.” Since shiitake mushrooms grow best in cool, moderately humid environments, it is preferable for the logs to be shielded from direct sunlight. Therefore, even though it is called “open-field cultivation,” the mushrooms are actually grown in mountain forests shaded by tall trees. The size of the shiitake mushrooms is said to be proportional to the size of the logs. In other words, the thicker and sturdier the log, the larger the shiitake mushrooms will grow.

A Leading Force in Log Cultivation in Yamada Town

The year 1983, when Mr. Haga began cultivating log-grown shiitake mushrooms, coincided with the time when Yamada Town was just beginning to focus its efforts on shiitake cultivation. Many others also began growing log-grown shiitake mushrooms around the same time. However, once the Heisei era began, inexpensive Chinese shiitake mushrooms flooded the market, causing market prices to plummet. There was a period when Yamada Town’s log-grown shiitake industry also faced difficult times. It is said that some growers even went out of business during that period. Even amid these challenges, Mr. Haga continued to actively enter his mushrooms in competitions across the country. 

Reflecting on the Future of Log-Grown Shiitake Mushrooms

Even at over 80 years old, Mr. Haga continues to energetically cultivate log-grown shiitake mushrooms. “Log-grown shiitake mushrooms have a better texture and more umami than those grown on sawdust beds,” he says, explaining his commitment to log-grown shiitake.
He explains that to win awards at competitions, he enters shiitake mushrooms with caps that are as uniform as possible in size, color, and shape. To grow a large number of mushrooms of the same size, the logs must also be uniform in size. The logs have a diameter of about 18 cm. Because they are quite heavy, managing them is hard work for the elderly Mr. Haga.

“If you keep them inside the greenhouse for too long, they’ll suffer from heat stress. By July, it gets hot inside the greenhouse. When that happens, we move the logs back to the mountains. Rather than spraying them with pesticides, returning them to the mountains provides better ventilation and is better for them,” said Mr. Haga. November. Although no shiitake mushrooms had yet sprouted on the logs in the greenhouse, he said they would be ready for harvest around April. Because they are cultivated using logs that have not been treated with pesticides, log-grown shiitake mushrooms are safe and reliable.

I will continue to grow shiitake mushrooms on logs for as long as I live.

Mr. Haga has been at the forefront of shiitake cultivation on logs in Yamada Town ever since it first took off. Even as other producers his age have stopped farming, he continues to lead the way in shiitake cultivation. “My biggest challenge is my own physical stamina,” he says. “I work every year thinking this might be my last batch of shiitake.” Yet even under these circumstances, Mr. Haga continues to achieve outstanding results at competitions. “I suppose it’s the result of many years of experience. If you visit the farm every day, the weather tells you what to do. When the humidity rises, the caps split open, revealing distinct white cracks, and the shiitake mushrooms turn out beautifully. When the humidity is too low, I water them. I have to say, I’m doing a pretty good job. I also need to train the next generation. I want to keep doing my best as long as I live,” says Mr. Haga. His expression radiated the pride of a master craftsman.

The post Continuing to Lead the Way in Yamada Town’s Log-Grown Shiitake Mushrooms: Eizo Haga, Master Mushroom Grower / Yamada Town, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

“Pure sun-dried salt” is produced using only the heat of the sun and the craftsmanship of the artisans, without any use of fire or electricity. This “living salt” is attracting keen interest from top chefs and confectionery manufacturers both in Japan and abroad. What is the story behind the life of the man who has come to be hailed as Japan’s foremost salt artisan, and what drives his passion for salt-making?

The Courage to Give Up Your Career

Located about 55 km east of Kochi City, facing Tosa Bay, lies Tano Town—Shikoku’s smallest town, measuring 2.2 km east to west and 4 km north to south, yet packed with charm. One of its defining features is its reputation as the “Town of Salt.” The town is home to the “Tano Town Pure Sun-Dried Salt Production Experience Facility,” where many tourists come to observe and participate in salt-making.

The cornerstone of this culture was “Tanoya Enjiro,” who founded his business in the town. Chefs and media from across the country flocked to the town in search of the salt he produced, and pure sun-dried salt became a brand that symbolizes the town.

He is originally from Hiroo, Minato Ward, Tokyo. During his student days, he devoted himself to rugby, and his previous job was at a company in Tokyo that manufactured and sold surfboards and snowboards. At the age of 35, driven by the desire to “work by the sea and become the best in Japan,” he conducted research and narrowed his options down to becoming a tuna fisherman in Oma, Aomori Prefecture, or a “pure sun-dried salt” artisan in Kochi Prefecture. However, becoming a tuna fisherman in Oma required fishing rights and permits managed by the local fishing cooperative, making the barrier to entry too high; thus, by process of elimination, he chose the path of a salt artisan. He abandoned his previous career and applied to become an apprentice under Takeshi Yoshida, who at the time had pioneered the category of “pure sun-dried salt”—the only one in Japan that uses absolutely no fire or electricity—but he says he was completely ignored at first.

“I went to Kuroshio Town in western Kochi Prefecture without an appointment, bowed my head, and asked to become his apprentice, but he wouldn’t even give me the time of day. Out of sheer stubbornness, I couldn’t give up, so I kept visiting him several times, prostrating myself on the ground and begging, ‘Please just teach me the basics. I don’t need a salary—I’ll do anything, even cleaning.’ From there, I spent two years being thoroughly drilled in the fundamentals,” he recalls. After completing his apprenticeship under Mr. Yoshida, he searched for a place to set up his own business. He looked at coastal towns throughout Kochi Prefecture, but nowhere would take him in—until was the mayor of Tano Town, who responded, “Please come here. Make the best salt in Japan.” At the time, there were no expressways, and it was about a four-hour drive from Mr. Yoshida’s saltworks, so he also reasoned that this wouldn’t cause any trouble for his master. “When my master bestowed the business name ‘Tanoya’ upon me, it was meant to tell me to repay the debt of gratitude to the town that had accepted me,” he explains.

Ever since I’ve been able to talk to Shio,

The sea lies right in front of Crystal House. Seawater drawn on days of the full moon or spring tides is poured into wooden crates. Unlike the methods used by many salt producers—such as boiling down the salt or using electricity to concentrate the seawater—”completely sun-dried salt” involves using no fire or electricity whatsoever; instead, we patiently wait inside the house for natural evaporation driven by the heat of the sun. By avoiding any heating process, we manually stir the mixture to lock in the approximately 80 types of minerals found in the seawater. 

“I wanted to do something no one else was doing, so I brought a sleeping bag into the greenhouse and lived there alongside the salt. After about a month of that lifestyle, I began to notice what kind of scent the salt gave off and what sounds it made at night. As I continued this dialogue with the salt, I learned to recognize its changes, which gave me confidence—and suddenly, I was able to produce salt that truly satisfied me.”

To maximize both efficiency and precision in his work, the wooden boxes are custom-made to fit Enjiro’s exact body measurements. It is truly a space where the artisan and his tools become one.

Rather than “delicious salt,” it’s “the salt that humans need.”

Kochi Prefecture boasts the highest forest coverage rate in the nation at 84 percent. The Nahari and Yasuda Rivers, which carry abundant nutrients, flow through the eastern and western parts of Tano Town, supplying organic matter from the mountains to the sea. Because the population is small and there are no public beaches, the seawater is exceptionally clean. Furthermore, the Kuroshio Current, which flows off the coast of Tosa Bay, brings high-quality minerals.

Mr. Enjiro checks the seawater in the approximately 130 wooden boxes once an hour and stirs it repeatedly as he monitors the conditions. Because he is fully focused on the salt-making process, he rarely leaves this spot unless there is an urgent matter.

“Crystallization occurs at the very end of the entire process. By observing it every day, I’ve learned to control the process—for example, thinking, ‘Right now, this much potassium is being released. In that case, I’ll keep it in the seawater and extract the sodium first.’ My goal isn’t simply to make ‘delicious salt’; I want to create salt that people instinctively need—salt that restores the body’s balance when consumed.”

He explains that cutting the surrounding weeds would alter the quality of the salt. “We aren’t the main actors here; we’re merely allowed to play a small role within nature’s cycle,” he says with humble awareness—and it is this mindset that underpins the salt’s flavor.

Control both the grain size and the flavor exactly as you like

Salt is extremely sensitive to temperature changes. “A single summer thunderstorm can ruin the flavor,” says Enjiro, who pays meticulous attention to the weather, humidity, and wind patterns. He allows the salt to crystallize slowly over a period of three to four months—or as long as four years in some cases.

He masterfully controls everything from the balance of the five basic tastes (sweet, salty, spicy, sour, and bitter) to the size of the crystals. Word of his craft has spread by word of mouth, and he now receives a constant stream of custom orders from chefs around the world. It is rarely found on the open market, and there is a waiting list of several years for reservations. This is why it is called the “phantom salt,” a favorite even among Michelin-starred chefs. The highest price reaches 1 million yen per kilogram. Even “Shiojiro (Black),” the brand’s most standard product, costs around 4,000 yen per 100 grams—a far cry from the salt sold at mass-market retailers.

Salt embodies the very essence of a region’s charm.

The first product created when the business first opened was “Taiyo Crystal Salt: Enjiro.” Two years later, he developed a version with different grain sizes and a more pronounced sodium flavor; today, using this as a base, he fulfills over 2,000 different custom orders. “Salt is, after all, just a supporting role,” the artisan explains matter-of-factly. “We even calculate the rate at which it dissolves so that, the moment it melts into the main dish and becomes one with it, customers can experience the most delicious flavor.”

Furthermore, he continues to take on challenges that go beyond conventional boundaries, such as “flavored salts,” where ingredients like pufferfish, strawberries, and truffles are added to seawater to infuse umami during the crystallization process. The idea of creating high-value, rare products—such as those utilizing Tosa Buntan blossoms—also came up in conversation.

Although Enjiro continues to pursue the “ultimate salt,” now at age 55, he voiced an unexpected vision for the future. “I feel like I’ve done everything I can with salt. When I turn 60, I want to spend another 10 years aiming to be number one in Japan in a completely different industry. I get bored easily,” he says with a mischievous smile.

The sea, sun, wind, and vegetation of Tano Town. Enjiro’s completely sun-dried salt, born through a dialogue with all of these elements, is the very vitality of the land crystallized in its purest form. Before we know it, we find ourselves drawn into his profound and pure worldview.

The post Grain size, flavor—experience the life of “Tanoya Enjirō,” the salt artisan who masters it all / Tano Town, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Mr. Onodera continues to grapple with the act of “receiving life” through hunting. Raised in Kesennuma City, he worked as a chef in Tokyo before returning to Miyagi. He handles everything from hunting to butchering and sales, while exploring the coexistence of nature and people. What motivates him to continue his efforts to carry the cycle of life into the future?

From Growing Up on an Island to Becoming a French Chef in Tokyo

Mr. Onodera is originally from Oshima in Kesennuma City, which lies north of Ishinomaki City. He grew up on the island and commuted to the mainland by boat until the Kesennuma Bridge was completed in 2019.

Kesennuma City, once prosperous thanks to the tuna fishing industry, was reportedly a bustling hub, with major department stores opening there. Mr. Onodera, who spent his youth in Kesennuma, moved to Tokyo after graduating.

He had long dreamed of the urban lifestyle he’d seen on TV and in magazines. He immersed himself in fashion and nightlife and worked as a French chef, but the unfamiliar city life and the grueling work in the kitchen gradually pushed his body and mind to their limits, and about three years after moving to Tokyo, he decided to return to his hometown. 

Rethinking Our Relationship with Life Through Hunting

After returning to his hometown, Mr. Onodera changed jobs to work for a company in the apparel and leisure industries. While working there in a role that brought him into contact with nature, he became interested in hunting—partly because the company’s president was a hunter and partly because his uncle also hunted as a hobby. At the time, damage caused by Japanese deer to crops and forests was becoming a growing problem in Miyagi Prefecture, and trapping efforts as a measure against nuisance wildlife were expanding. Spurred by these circumstances, he decided to obtain a hunting license. 

Pause to ask, “Why are we doing this?” and determine the path forward

Around 2010, as the population of Japanese deer in Miyagi Prefecture grew, damage to crops and forests became more severe, leading to the announcement of a plan to cull the deer through hunting. As a result, Mr. Onodera found himself hunting even outside the official hunting season. However, as the number of deer he could hunt in a single day increased, some of his colleagues began saying, “We don’t need any more venison.” Seeing the Japanese deer being discarded and left to rot, Mr. Onodera began to wonder, “What are we doing this for?”

Japanese deer are simply trying to reproduce, following their instincts. Their habitat has shrunk due to human interests, forcing them to come down into the villages, yet they are targeted for culling because they are deemed a “threat to human life.” Mr. Onodera, who had loved animals since childhood, recalls that when a fellow hunter told him, “You mustn’t feel sorry for them,” he realized, “I don’t have that kind of mindset.”

“At the very least, I’ll make sure the deer I hunt are turned into something delicious to eat.” That resolve profoundly changed the course of Mr. Onodera’s hunting life.

Following the Earthquake: Charting a Path Toward the Revival of Food Culture

In 2011, while he was experimenting with various methods—such as bleeding the meat, removing the internal organs, and soaking it in mountain stream water or seawater—to make venison more palatable, the Great East Japan Earthquake struck Ishinomaki City. When Mr. Onodera returned from the mountains, what met his eyes was a hometown that had been completely transformed. The tsunami had engulfed the town, and the familiar landscape had vanished without a trace. Even so, Mr. Onodera had no choice but to do what he could. He gathered the venison he had on hand and delivered it to evacuation centers. The realization that the meat—a gift from a living creature—could give strength to others quietly took root within him. After overcoming the disaster, Mr. Onodera eventually met renowned chefs from Tokyo who had come to provide meals at the evacuation centers. 

“I admit I felt a little bit like I was taking advantage of the situation…” Mr. Onodera recalls. He had the famous chefs sample the venison he had prepared himself, as well as venison prosciutto, and refined the flavors through repeated trials.

Through these activities, she had the good fortune to meet Takeshi Kobayashi, a music producer deeply involved in post-Great East Japan Earthquake reconstruction efforts, and became involved in the “Reborn-Art Festival” he organizes. Upon learning of Ms. Onodera’s work, Mr. Kobayashi proposed, “Since we’re at it, let’s build a processing facility.” And in 2017, the current facility was completed, enabling the company to handle everything from the butchering to the sale of Japanese deer meat under one roof. 

Basic Rules for Taking a Life

Mr. Onodera hunts by aiming for the head or neck of a Japanese deer and taking it down with a single shot. Holding his rifle, he looks through the scope with his right eye while keeping his left eye on the background to take aim at the Japanese deer being chased by his hunting dogs. This hunting method is the least stressful for the deer. Since it results in only a single wound, more of the meat can be used. Although it may seem like a very difficult technique, Mr. Onodera explained with a smile, “It’s just a matter of making a split-second decision. Once you get used to it, it’s fine.”

The hunted Japanese deer are bled out immediately while their hearts are still beating. They are then butchered at the company’s processing facility, and the moisture is gradually removed over the course of about a month in a sterile room. Mr. Onodera calmly explains that processing the meat into something delicious is “the minimum rule we must follow when receiving a life.”

Looking Toward the Future of Forests and People

Although the current focus is solely on culling Japanese deer, Mr. Onodera envisions that “rather than culling just one species, we need a solution that takes into account the ecosystem of the forest as a whole.” Preserving the forest—including not only animals but also plants—is an urgent priority.

As part of his educational efforts, he regularly holds workshops and art events. He hopes to teach children the value of “wild animals becoming ‘food’ and the act of receiving life,” and to spark their interest in the ecosystems and nature around them through art.

Many young people and artists are drawn to this place, drawn to Mr. Onodera himself.
“Well, as long as they gather on their own and do what they like, that’s fine,” says Mr. Onodera with a smile, welcoming them with open arms.

Mr. Onodera transforms wild animals—captured for human convenience—into exquisite ingredients, utilizing every part without waste. To me, his approach embodied the ideal human attitude: one that expresses gratitude for all living things and embraces the bounty of nature.

The post Receiving life from nature. Nozomu Onodera, founder of “Antler Crafts” / Ishinomaki City, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Pineapple fields stretch across the rolling hills overlooking the sea. Located on the east coast of northern Okinawa Island, Higashi Village in Kunigami District is the home of “Gold Barrel,” a premium pineapple that accounts for just 5% of Japan’s total production. What is the story behind the “King of Pineapples”—the Gold Barrel—and the aspirations of its young growers?

The History of Pineapple Cultivation in Okinawa Prefecture

Okinawa Prefecture accounts for nearly 100% of Japan’s domestic pineapple production, with an annual harvest of approximately 7,000 to 8,000 metric tons. It is said that pineapple cultivation began in 1866 when seedlings washed ashore from a Dutch ship that had run aground off the coast of Ishigaki Island. After World War II, when cultivation and breed improvement for canning began in earnest, pineapples grew to become one of the two major staple crops alongside sugarcane by the 1960s.

However, the once-thriving pineapple industry suffered a major blow with the liberalization of canned product imports in 1990, and cultivation of the Hawaiian variety “N67-10”—which had been the mainstay for processing—began to decline.

Shift to high-value-added varieties for fresh consumption

Although pineapple cultivation had declined at one point, Okinawa Prefecture is shifting toward growing high-value-added varieties intended for fresh consumption. Today, the prefecture produces “Snack Pine” (official name: Bogor Pine), which can be torn apart by hand and eaten as a snack, the small, white-fleshed “Peach Pine” (official name: Soft Touch), the intensely sweet “Sandolce” (official name: Okino P17), the “White Coco” (official name: Okino P19) with its coconut-like aroma, and the premium “Gold Barrel” (official name: Gold Barrel Pine). These and many other fresh-eating varieties have been developed and are now being cultivated, steadily expanding their market share.

The Birth of the Premium “Gold Barrel” Pineapple

“Gold Barrel,” registered as a new variety in 2006, originated in Higashimura. It was developed over a period of approximately 20 years from a seedling obtained in 1989 at the Okinawa Prefectural Agricultural Research Center by crossing “Cream Pine” and “McGregor ST-1.” The variety was named for its golden-colored flesh and barrel-like shape.

The most distinctive feature of Gold Barrel is its high sugar content. While the sugar content of typical pineapples ranges from 14 to 16 degrees, Gold Barrel has a much higher sugar content of 17 to 19 degrees. Furthermore, the fruit is so tender that even the core is edible, and it has less of the characteristic sharp tartness typical of pineapples. When you take a bite, it’s melt-in-your-mouth tender and juicy, and because it has very little fiber, it doesn’t leave a gritty texture in your mouth. With its refined sweetness and rich aroma, and weighing approximately 1.5 to 2 kg per fruit, it has gained attention as a premium pineapple for gift-giving.

Tadao Tamaki, the creator of “Gold Barrel”

Tadao Tamaki of Tamaki Farm—a pioneer in pineapple cultivation in Higashimura and an Honorary Agricultural Advisor for Okinawa Prefecture—played a pivotal role in the creation of this new variety. Starting with 11 frail seedlings he had received, Mr. Tamaki repeatedly selected and nurtured them, and through many years of effort and research, he cultivated “Gold Barrel” into a truly golden-hued fruit.

Among the “Gold Barrel” pineapples Mr. Tamaki grows himself, those that are particularly exceptional in terms of taste, color, size, and shape are named “TADAO GOLD.” Known as the highest-grade variety of “Gold Barrel,” they are selected from only a few percent of the total crop.

The Legacy of Pineapple Farming

Yoshiyuki and Kie Shinzato, who run “Shinzato Fruit Farm” in Higashimura, are the next generation of growers who learned the ins and outs of Gold Barrel cultivation from Mr. Tamaki, who has devoted over 50 years to pineapple farming.

Kie is Mr. Tamaki’s daughter, and she had watched him grow pineapples since she was a child. However, it wasn’t until she entered the workforce that she realized just how remarkable her father’s pineapples were. She says it was after she started working as a pastry chef in Naha City.

Nearly 20 years ago, the pineapples her workplace was sourcing turned out to be Gold Barrel varieties grown by her father. She heard rumors from people around her that “TADAO GOLD” was famous for its delicious taste, and that’s when she realized just how exceptional they were. Thinking, “This might not be a job anyone can do,” she began working side by side with Yoshiyuki—who was born and raised on a part-time mango farm in Nanjo City—to take on the challenge of growing Gold Barrel pineapples.

Gold Barrel, Grown on the Land of Higashimura

Higashi Village, home to Shinzato Orchard, is not only one of the prefecture’s leading pineapple-producing areas but is also known as “Yanbaru,” a region where rich natural landscapes—including mangrove forests—and unique ecosystems remain well-preserved. In the vast fields where patches of red soil peek through, pineapples that have grown to about waist height stand densely planted in neat rows.

Higashimura’s red soil and climate, ideal for pineapple cultivation

One reason pineapple cultivation thrives in Higashimura is the acidic, well-drained red clay soil that pineapples prefer most. Additionally, the terrain allows minerals from the sea to seep into the soil, and summer temperatures range from 30 to 35 degrees. These conditions produce pineapples with high sugar content.

Soil preparation that capitalizes on the advantages of this soil is a crucial factor in pineapple cultivation.

Soil preparation begins by using a power shovel to till the soil to a depth of about 1 meter. Since water is the pineapple’s arch-enemy, this process creates air pockets in the soil, improving drainage. The tilled soil is then left to rest for three months, exposed to natural rainfall to allow moisture and minerals to permeate the soil while incorporating air, helping it regain its vitality. This process also prevents problems such as stunted growth caused by continuous cropping.

And apparently, the most important aspect of soil preparation is weed control. “My father-in-law tells me most often not to let the weeds grow,” says Yoshiyuki. To prevent an infestation of scale insects, they don’t use machines for weeding—they pull them out almost entirely by hand. This labor-intensive and time-consuming approach to soil preparation ultimately contributes to the flavor of the pineapples.

From Planting to Growth to Harvest

Pineapple planting is generally divided into two main periods: spring (March and April) and summer (September and October). Spring planting is timed so that the roots can establish themselves before the rainy season begins in late May. Summer planting is scheduled while monitoring typhoon conditions to ensure the planted seedlings do not rot due to rain.

Once the fruit has grown to a certain size, each one is covered with a hat made of newspaper to protect it from sunburn, and then covered with netting to block strong ultraviolet rays, thereby preventing the skin from burning and spoiling. Additionally, since the large, heavy “Gold Barrel” variety can have its stems snapped by strong typhoon winds, pipes are installed to support the stems.

Gold Barrel pineapples, which are grown with great care in an environment optimized for the crop, are finally ready for harvest approximately three years after the seedlings are planted. Since pineapples generally do not continue to ripen after harvest, they are allowed to ripen on the plant and harvested at the peak of their flavor. As harvest time approaches, the ripeness of each fruit is checked daily, and ripe ones are harvested by hand.

Carrying Dreams in a Gold Barrel

Shinzato Orchard harvests approximately 9,000 pineapples annually. While standard pineapples can be harvested twice in four years, the Gold Barrel variety yields only once every three years. Despite being a difficult variety to cultivate—with limited yields and susceptibility to disease—the growers spare no effort, meticulously preparing the soil and waiting for the fruit to ripen on the tree before picking it at the peak of flavor.

That said, it is this meticulous work that produces the Gold Barrel—a pineapple that is tender right down to the core and boasts a rich, fragrant aroma. “My father-in-law conducts research every day and continues to incorporate new techniques even though he’s over 80. I’m young, but I still can’t keep up with him,” says Yoshiyuki humbly.

While absorbing techniques and knowledge from Mr. Tamaki, he is eager to expand production by gradually increasing the acreage of Gold Barrel—a variety that is difficult to grow and has unstable yields—with the goal of eventually achieving a stable harvest of 12,000 to 13,000 fruits.

Meanwhile, Kie is focused on establishing a shipping system. Gold Barrel, which is allowed to ripen on the tree, has a shelf life of just three days after harvest. The process of polishing each pineapple individually with a cloth and packing them by hand into boxes can take up to 22 hours during peak harvest season. However, they hope to streamline this process by adopting new systems—such as machinery—so they can devote even more time and effort to growing the pineapples.

The couple currently donates their harvested pineapples regularly to local elementary schools and children’s homes. This stems from their desire to change people’s “assumptions” about pineapples: “When we were children, we thought it was normal for pineapples to be a little sour. However, depending on the variety and cultivation methods, they can become this sweet. We want children to know that pineapples are sweet and delicious, and we want to change what people take for granted about pineapples.”

Just as Mr. Tamaki nurtured golden fruits from 11 frail seedlings, that passion and expertise are now being passed on to the next generation. The Gold Barrel pineapples, rooted in the red soil of Higashi Village, will continue to bear sweet fruit, carrying the dreams of these two men.

The post The Challenge of the Second-Generation Owner of “Shinzato Orchard,” Aiming for the Top of the Gold Barrel / Higashi Village, Kunigami District, Okinawa Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Lake Shinji, located in Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture, is known as one of Japan’s leading production areas for shijimi clams. In the morning, small boats line the lake’s surface, and fishing begins amid the sound of outboard motors. To protect this bountiful lake, the fishermen once made a major decision. What is the story behind the shijimi clam fishery on Lake Shinji—one that the fishermen were determined to preserve, even to the point of returning the compensation they had already received? We explore the fishermen’s way of life and the history behind it.

Lake Shinji, One of Japan’s Leading Production Areas for Freshwater Clams

Lake Shinji is located in eastern Shimane Prefecture. Known as a “brackish lake”—a rarity in Japan—it is a body of water where freshwater flowing in from rivers such as the Hii River mixes with seawater entering from the Sea of Japan. This environment, where river fish and saltwater fish coexist, is unique to brackish waters. In fact, more than 100 different species of wildlife inhabit the lake.

One of Lake Shinji’s most iconic treasures is the “Yamato shijimi” clam. Known for its large size and rich umami flavor, the region boasts one of the highest catch volumes in the country. In 2024, the catch reached 4,590 metric tons, marking the 11th consecutive year the region has ranked first nationwide, solidifying its reputation as Japan’s leading producer of shijimi clams.

In the Izumo region, shijimi clams have long been cherished as an indispensable part of the daily diet, appearing in dishes such as miso soup and tsukudani. The Matsue and Izumo regions have cultivated a culture of living in harmony with the nature of Lake Shinji, and shijimi fishing is a practice that symbolizes this way of life.

An ideal environment for the growth of shijimi clams

The three main species of shijimi clams found in Japan are the “Yamato shijimi,” which inhabits brackish waters; the “Mashi shijimi,” a freshwater species; and the “Seta shijimi,” a species endemic to Lake Biwa. The Yamato shijimi harvested from Lake Shinji prefer an environment with a salinity level between that of seawater and freshwater. Lake Shinji, where freshwater and seawater mix and salinity fluctuates gently with the tides, provides an ideal habitat for these clams.

Grown in the nutrient-rich sand at the bottom of the lake, these clams are characterized by their large size and rich umami flavor. They are truly a gift nurtured by the natural environment.

Protecting the Lake and Passing It On to Future Generations

Hiroyuki Fukuma of the “Lake Shinji Fisheries Cooperative,” an organization that manages and markets fisheries on Lake Shinji. He is one of approximately 260 people who make their living from fishing for shijimi clams.

“Resource management is key,” he says, emphasizing that the cooperative focuses not only on harvesting shijimi clams but also on preserving the lake’s environment. He emphasizes the importance of continuing fishing while protecting the resource so that future generations can make shijimi fishing their livelihood and so that it will remain a specialty of Shimane Prefecture for generations to come.

To this end, the cooperative has established strict rules regarding daily catch limits, operating hours, and days off. The catch limit is set at two boxes per person per day (each box weighing 50–60 kilograms), and while the duration of each fishing trip varies depending on the method used, it is generally limited to about three to four hours. It is mandatory to return juvenile clams measuring 12 millimeters in diameter or less to the lake.

Including fishermen who catch species other than shijimi clams, approximately 700 people belong to the association. Members span a wide age range, from their early 20s to their 80s, but the fishery can only thrive when each individual prioritizes the lake’s environment and works cooperatively.

A scene of fishermen setting out to sea, symbolic of Matsue

Around 7:00 a.m., the sound of outboard motors echoes across the calm surface of the lake as small boats set out one after another. The depth of Lake Shinji varies depending on the fishing grounds, but it is generally between 2 and 4 meters. Upon reaching their respective fishing grounds, the fishermen begin their work from their small boats.

Small boats floating quietly on Lake Shinji, shrouded in morning mist. This scene has long been cherished as a symbol of morning in Matsue City.

“Joren,” a Traditional Fishing Tool

The methods used in shijimi fishing include not only mechanized operations using diesel-powered boats but also manual methods that are still practiced today, such as “iri-kaki,” in which fishermen enter the lake directly, and “te-kaki,” in which gear is operated from the boat. The fishing method Mr. Fukuma employs is “water-flow hand-raking,” which combines hand-raking with an engine-powered pump. The gear used is a uniquely shaped tool called a “joren.” This metal implement, resembling a rake, scoops up shijimi clams while raking the sand on the lake bottom.

Water is pumped through a hose from an engine-powered pump and sprayed forcefully from the nozzle, allowing fishermen to harvest freshwater clams while turning over the sand on the lake bottom. The fisherman propels the boat by pushing a pole about 8 meters long, then moves the boat by pulling the pole toward him. He repeats this process as he searches the sandy lake bottom.

Experienced fishermen are thoroughly familiar with the water depth and lake bottom conditions at each fishing ground. This method of fishing, which requires interpreting the natural conditions, is a task that truly demands skilled craftsmanship.

Careful Sorting to Ensure Quality

As soon as the shijimi clams are hauled in, the sorting process begins immediately on board. They are first sorted by size using machinery, and then carefully sorted again by hand. Since the catch limit is set at two boxes per person, the fishermen want to remove empty shells and keep only the larger, higher-quality shijimi clams.

Sorting is also done on land after the fishing is over. Fishermen gently shake or roll the clams to listen to the sound they make. They say they can tell how plump the clams are by the way the sound resonates. The difference in sound is so subtle that a layperson cannot distinguish it, but fishermen who have spent many years working with clams can clearly hear the difference.

The Decision Made by the Fishermen Who Protected Lake Shinji

The shijimi clam fishery on Lake Shinji once faced a major crisis. In the 1950s, plans were underway to convert Lake Shinji into a freshwater lake for use as agricultural water.

If the lake were converted to freshwater, the shijimi clams, which thrive in a brackish environment, would be severely affected. Local residents launched a campaign against the plan. After a staggering 155 rounds of negotiations, the fishermen realized they could not resist the national government’s plan; they accepted compensation and agreed to the project.

The Lake Saved by Returning the Compensation Money

In 1968, the freshwater conversion project began. However, as the extent of the damage to the shijimi clams became clear, opposition grew once again among residents of the Lake Shinji watershed. Led by shijimi fishermen, the “Movement Against Freshwater Conversion” soon gained momentum. They energetically carried out activities such as large-scale rallies, fishing boat parades, and the free distribution of shijimi clams.

Although compensation had been accepted at one point, the Lake Shinji Fisheries Cooperative decided to return the funds to the national government in order to protect the freshwater clams of Lake Shinji. This action resonated with the public, and the momentum behind the opposition movement reportedly grew even stronger.

Eventually, in 1988, the national and prefectural governments announced a postponement of the freshwater conversion project. In 2002, its official cancellation was declared. The environment of Lake Shinji and the freshwater clam fishery were thus preserved thanks to the strong determination of the residents and fishermen.

Passing on the Lake’s Bounty to Future Generations

In addition to cleaning the lake bottom, the Shinji Lake Fisheries Cooperative also carries out conservation activities such as collecting and releasing freshwater clam larvae. They aim to maintain the clam population by collecting larvae floating in the center of the lake and releasing them into their natural habitat.

“The lake water has become much cleaner compared to a dozen or so years ago,” says Mr. Fukuma. He notes that the household trash that used to float along the shore has almost disappeared, and speculates that a shift in local residents’ awareness may be contributing to the improved water quality. The fact that shijimi fishing continues in this area today—and that it boasts the highest catch volume in Japan—is a testament to how local residents and fishermen have consistently protected the lake’s environment.

Even today, the sight of small boats lined up on Lake Shinji symbolizes the way of life of the people who live in harmony with the lake. This fishing tradition, passed down over many years, will surely continue into the future thanks to the fishermen and the local community.

The post Lake Shinji: A Lake They Fought to Protect, Even at the Cost of Returning Compensation Funds. Preserving Japan’s Largest Freshwater Clam Fishery for Future Generations: “Lake Shinji Fisheries Cooperative” / Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.