Mr. Onodera continues to grapple with the act of “receiving life” through hunting. Raised in Kesennuma City, he worked as a chef in Tokyo before returning to Miyagi. He handles everything from hunting to butchering and sales, while exploring the coexistence of nature and people. What motivates him to continue his efforts to carry the cycle of life into the future?

From Growing Up on an Island to Becoming a French Chef in Tokyo

Mr. Onodera is originally from Oshima in Kesennuma City, which lies north of Ishinomaki City. He grew up on the island and commuted to the mainland by boat until the Kesennuma Bridge was completed in 2019.

Kesennuma City, once prosperous thanks to the tuna fishing industry, was reportedly a bustling hub, with major department stores opening there. Mr. Onodera, who spent his youth in Kesennuma, moved to Tokyo after graduating.

He had long dreamed of the urban lifestyle he’d seen on TV and in magazines. He immersed himself in fashion and nightlife and worked as a French chef, but the unfamiliar city life and the grueling work in the kitchen gradually pushed his body and mind to their limits, and about three years after moving to Tokyo, he decided to return to his hometown. 

Rethinking Our Relationship with Life Through Hunting

After returning to his hometown, Mr. Onodera changed jobs to work for a company in the apparel and leisure industries. While working there in a role that brought him into contact with nature, he became interested in hunting—partly because the company’s president was a hunter and partly because his uncle also hunted as a hobby. At the time, damage caused by Japanese deer to crops and forests was becoming a growing problem in Miyagi Prefecture, and trapping efforts as a measure against nuisance wildlife were expanding. Spurred by these circumstances, he decided to obtain a hunting license. 

Pause to ask, “Why are we doing this?” and determine the path forward

Around 2010, as the population of Japanese deer in Miyagi Prefecture grew, damage to crops and forests became more severe, leading to the announcement of a plan to cull the deer through hunting. As a result, Mr. Onodera found himself hunting even outside the official hunting season. However, as the number of deer he could hunt in a single day increased, some of his colleagues began saying, “We don’t need any more venison.” Seeing the Japanese deer being discarded and left to rot, Mr. Onodera began to wonder, “What are we doing this for?”

Japanese deer are simply trying to reproduce, following their instincts. Their habitat has shrunk due to human interests, forcing them to come down into the villages, yet they are targeted for culling because they are deemed a “threat to human life.” Mr. Onodera, who had loved animals since childhood, recalls that when a fellow hunter told him, “You mustn’t feel sorry for them,” he realized, “I don’t have that kind of mindset.”

“At the very least, I’ll make sure the deer I hunt are turned into something delicious to eat.” That resolve profoundly changed the course of Mr. Onodera’s hunting life.

Following the Earthquake: Charting a Path Toward the Revival of Food Culture

In 2011, while he was experimenting with various methods—such as bleeding the meat, removing the internal organs, and soaking it in mountain stream water or seawater—to make venison more palatable, the Great East Japan Earthquake struck Ishinomaki City. When Mr. Onodera returned from the mountains, what met his eyes was a hometown that had been completely transformed. The tsunami had engulfed the town, and the familiar landscape had vanished without a trace. Even so, Mr. Onodera had no choice but to do what he could. He gathered the venison he had on hand and delivered it to evacuation centers. The realization that the meat—a gift from a living creature—could give strength to others quietly took root within him. After overcoming the disaster, Mr. Onodera eventually met renowned chefs from Tokyo who had come to provide meals at the evacuation centers. 

“I admit I felt a little bit like I was taking advantage of the situation…” Mr. Onodera recalls. He had the famous chefs sample the venison he had prepared himself, as well as venison prosciutto, and refined the flavors through repeated trials.

Through these activities, she had the good fortune to meet Takeshi Kobayashi, a music producer deeply involved in post-Great East Japan Earthquake reconstruction efforts, and became involved in the “Reborn-Art Festival” he organizes. Upon learning of Ms. Onodera’s work, Mr. Kobayashi proposed, “Since we’re at it, let’s build a processing facility.” And in 2017, the current facility was completed, enabling the company to handle everything from the butchering to the sale of Japanese deer meat under one roof. 

Basic Rules for Taking a Life

Mr. Onodera hunts by aiming for the head or neck of a Japanese deer and taking it down with a single shot. Holding his rifle, he looks through the scope with his right eye while keeping his left eye on the background to take aim at the Japanese deer being chased by his hunting dogs. This hunting method is the least stressful for the deer. Since it results in only a single wound, more of the meat can be used. Although it may seem like a very difficult technique, Mr. Onodera explained with a smile, “It’s just a matter of making a split-second decision. Once you get used to it, it’s fine.”

The hunted Japanese deer are bled out immediately while their hearts are still beating. They are then butchered at the company’s processing facility, and the moisture is gradually removed over the course of about a month in a sterile room. Mr. Onodera calmly explains that processing the meat into something delicious is “the minimum rule we must follow when receiving a life.”

Looking Toward the Future of Forests and People

Although the current focus is solely on culling Japanese deer, Mr. Onodera envisions that “rather than culling just one species, we need a solution that takes into account the ecosystem of the forest as a whole.” Preserving the forest—including not only animals but also plants—is an urgent priority.

As part of his educational efforts, he regularly holds workshops and art events. He hopes to teach children the value of “wild animals becoming ‘food’ and the act of receiving life,” and to spark their interest in the ecosystems and nature around them through art.

Many young people and artists are drawn to this place, drawn to Mr. Onodera himself.
“Well, as long as they gather on their own and do what they like, that’s fine,” says Mr. Onodera with a smile, welcoming them with open arms.

Mr. Onodera transforms wild animals—captured for human convenience—into exquisite ingredients, utilizing every part without waste. To me, his approach embodied the ideal human attitude: one that expresses gratitude for all living things and embraces the bounty of nature.

The post Receiving life from nature. Nozomu Onodera, founder of “Antler Crafts” / Ishinomaki City, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Pineapple fields stretch across the rolling hills overlooking the sea. Located on the east coast of northern Okinawa Island, Higashi Village in Kunigami District is the home of “Gold Barrel,” a premium pineapple that accounts for just 5% of Japan’s total production. What is the story behind the “King of Pineapples”—the Gold Barrel—and the aspirations of its young growers?

The History of Pineapple Cultivation in Okinawa Prefecture

Okinawa Prefecture accounts for nearly 100% of Japan’s domestic pineapple production, with an annual harvest of approximately 7,000 to 8,000 metric tons. It is said that pineapple cultivation began in 1866 when seedlings washed ashore from a Dutch ship that had run aground off the coast of Ishigaki Island. After World War II, when cultivation and breed improvement for canning began in earnest, pineapples grew to become one of the two major staple crops alongside sugarcane by the 1960s.

However, the once-thriving pineapple industry suffered a major blow with the liberalization of canned product imports in 1990, and cultivation of the Hawaiian variety “N67-10”—which had been the mainstay for processing—began to decline.

Shift to high-value-added varieties for fresh consumption

Although pineapple cultivation had declined at one point, Okinawa Prefecture is shifting toward growing high-value-added varieties intended for fresh consumption. Today, the prefecture produces “Snack Pine” (official name: Bogor Pine), which can be torn apart by hand and eaten as a snack, the small, white-fleshed “Peach Pine” (official name: Soft Touch), the intensely sweet “Sandolce” (official name: Okino P17), the “White Coco” (official name: Okino P19) with its coconut-like aroma, and the premium “Gold Barrel” (official name: Gold Barrel Pine). These and many other fresh-eating varieties have been developed and are now being cultivated, steadily expanding their market share.

The Birth of the Premium “Gold Barrel” Pineapple

“Gold Barrel,” registered as a new variety in 2006, originated in Higashimura. It was developed over a period of approximately 20 years from a seedling obtained in 1989 at the Okinawa Prefectural Agricultural Research Center by crossing “Cream Pine” and “McGregor ST-1.” The variety was named for its golden-colored flesh and barrel-like shape.

The most distinctive feature of Gold Barrel is its high sugar content. While the sugar content of typical pineapples ranges from 14 to 16 degrees, Gold Barrel has a much higher sugar content of 17 to 19 degrees. Furthermore, the fruit is so tender that even the core is edible, and it has less of the characteristic sharp tartness typical of pineapples. When you take a bite, it’s melt-in-your-mouth tender and juicy, and because it has very little fiber, it doesn’t leave a gritty texture in your mouth. With its refined sweetness and rich aroma, and weighing approximately 1.5 to 2 kg per fruit, it has gained attention as a premium pineapple for gift-giving.

Tadao Tamaki, the creator of “Gold Barrel”

Tadao Tamaki of Tamaki Farm—a pioneer in pineapple cultivation in Higashimura and an Honorary Agricultural Advisor for Okinawa Prefecture—played a pivotal role in the creation of this new variety. Starting with 11 frail seedlings he had received, Mr. Tamaki repeatedly selected and nurtured them, and through many years of effort and research, he cultivated “Gold Barrel” into a truly golden-hued fruit.

Among the “Gold Barrel” pineapples Mr. Tamaki grows himself, those that are particularly exceptional in terms of taste, color, size, and shape are named “TADAO GOLD.” Known as the highest-grade variety of “Gold Barrel,” they are selected from only a few percent of the total crop.

The Legacy of Pineapple Farming

Yoshiyuki and Kie Shinzato, who run “Shinzato Fruit Farm” in Higashimura, are the next generation of growers who learned the ins and outs of Gold Barrel cultivation from Mr. Tamaki, who has devoted over 50 years to pineapple farming.

Kie is Mr. Tamaki’s daughter, and she had watched him grow pineapples since she was a child. However, it wasn’t until she entered the workforce that she realized just how remarkable her father’s pineapples were. She says it was after she started working as a pastry chef in Naha City.

Nearly 20 years ago, the pineapples her workplace was sourcing turned out to be Gold Barrel varieties grown by her father. She heard rumors from people around her that “TADAO GOLD” was famous for its delicious taste, and that’s when she realized just how exceptional they were. Thinking, “This might not be a job anyone can do,” she began working side by side with Yoshiyuki—who was born and raised on a part-time mango farm in Nanjo City—to take on the challenge of growing Gold Barrel pineapples.

Gold Barrel, Grown on the Land of Higashimura

Higashi Village, home to Shinzato Orchard, is not only one of the prefecture’s leading pineapple-producing areas but is also known as “Yanbaru,” a region where rich natural landscapes—including mangrove forests—and unique ecosystems remain well-preserved. In the vast fields where patches of red soil peek through, pineapples that have grown to about waist height stand densely planted in neat rows.

Higashimura’s red soil and climate, ideal for pineapple cultivation

One reason pineapple cultivation thrives in Higashimura is the acidic, well-drained red clay soil that pineapples prefer most. Additionally, the terrain allows minerals from the sea to seep into the soil, and summer temperatures range from 30 to 35 degrees. These conditions produce pineapples with high sugar content.

Soil preparation that capitalizes on the advantages of this soil is a crucial factor in pineapple cultivation.

Soil preparation begins by using a power shovel to till the soil to a depth of about 1 meter. Since water is the pineapple’s arch-enemy, this process creates air pockets in the soil, improving drainage. The tilled soil is then left to rest for three months, exposed to natural rainfall to allow moisture and minerals to permeate the soil while incorporating air, helping it regain its vitality. This process also prevents problems such as stunted growth caused by continuous cropping.

And apparently, the most important aspect of soil preparation is weed control. “My father-in-law tells me most often not to let the weeds grow,” says Yoshiyuki. To prevent an infestation of scale insects, they don’t use machines for weeding—they pull them out almost entirely by hand. This labor-intensive and time-consuming approach to soil preparation ultimately contributes to the flavor of the pineapples.

From Planting to Growth to Harvest

Pineapple planting is generally divided into two main periods: spring (March and April) and summer (September and October). Spring planting is timed so that the roots can establish themselves before the rainy season begins in late May. Summer planting is scheduled while monitoring typhoon conditions to ensure the planted seedlings do not rot due to rain.

Once the fruit has grown to a certain size, each one is covered with a hat made of newspaper to protect it from sunburn, and then covered with netting to block strong ultraviolet rays, thereby preventing the skin from burning and spoiling. Additionally, since the large, heavy “Gold Barrel” variety can have its stems snapped by strong typhoon winds, pipes are installed to support the stems.

Gold Barrel pineapples, which are grown with great care in an environment optimized for the crop, are finally ready for harvest approximately three years after the seedlings are planted. Since pineapples generally do not continue to ripen after harvest, they are allowed to ripen on the plant and harvested at the peak of their flavor. As harvest time approaches, the ripeness of each fruit is checked daily, and ripe ones are harvested by hand.

Carrying Dreams in a Gold Barrel

Shinzato Orchard harvests approximately 9,000 pineapples annually. While standard pineapples can be harvested twice in four years, the Gold Barrel variety yields only once every three years. Despite being a difficult variety to cultivate—with limited yields and susceptibility to disease—the growers spare no effort, meticulously preparing the soil and waiting for the fruit to ripen on the tree before picking it at the peak of flavor.

That said, it is this meticulous work that produces the Gold Barrel—a pineapple that is tender right down to the core and boasts a rich, fragrant aroma. “My father-in-law conducts research every day and continues to incorporate new techniques even though he’s over 80. I’m young, but I still can’t keep up with him,” says Yoshiyuki humbly.

While absorbing techniques and knowledge from Mr. Tamaki, he is eager to expand production by gradually increasing the acreage of Gold Barrel—a variety that is difficult to grow and has unstable yields—with the goal of eventually achieving a stable harvest of 12,000 to 13,000 fruits.

Meanwhile, Kie is focused on establishing a shipping system. Gold Barrel, which is allowed to ripen on the tree, has a shelf life of just three days after harvest. The process of polishing each pineapple individually with a cloth and packing them by hand into boxes can take up to 22 hours during peak harvest season. However, they hope to streamline this process by adopting new systems—such as machinery—so they can devote even more time and effort to growing the pineapples.

The couple currently donates their harvested pineapples regularly to local elementary schools and children’s homes. This stems from their desire to change people’s “assumptions” about pineapples: “When we were children, we thought it was normal for pineapples to be a little sour. However, depending on the variety and cultivation methods, they can become this sweet. We want children to know that pineapples are sweet and delicious, and we want to change what people take for granted about pineapples.”

Just as Mr. Tamaki nurtured golden fruits from 11 frail seedlings, that passion and expertise are now being passed on to the next generation. The Gold Barrel pineapples, rooted in the red soil of Higashi Village, will continue to bear sweet fruit, carrying the dreams of these two men.

The post The Challenge of the Second-Generation Owner of “Shinzato Orchard,” Aiming for the Top of the Gold Barrel / Higashi Village, Kunigami District, Okinawa Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Lake Shinji, located in Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture, is known as one of Japan’s leading production areas for shijimi clams. In the morning, small boats line the lake’s surface, and fishing begins amid the sound of outboard motors. To protect this bountiful lake, the fishermen once made a major decision. What is the story behind the shijimi clam fishery on Lake Shinji—one that the fishermen were determined to preserve, even to the point of returning the compensation they had already received? We explore the fishermen’s way of life and the history behind it.

Lake Shinji, One of Japan’s Leading Production Areas for Freshwater Clams

Lake Shinji is located in eastern Shimane Prefecture. Known as a “brackish lake”—a rarity in Japan—it is a body of water where freshwater flowing in from rivers such as the Hii River mixes with seawater entering from the Sea of Japan. This environment, where river fish and saltwater fish coexist, is unique to brackish waters. In fact, more than 100 different species of wildlife inhabit the lake.

One of Lake Shinji’s most iconic treasures is the “Yamato shijimi” clam. Known for its large size and rich umami flavor, the region boasts one of the highest catch volumes in the country. In 2024, the catch reached 4,590 metric tons, marking the 11th consecutive year the region has ranked first nationwide, solidifying its reputation as Japan’s leading producer of shijimi clams.

In the Izumo region, shijimi clams have long been cherished as an indispensable part of the daily diet, appearing in dishes such as miso soup and tsukudani. The Matsue and Izumo regions have cultivated a culture of living in harmony with the nature of Lake Shinji, and shijimi fishing is a practice that symbolizes this way of life.

An ideal environment for the growth of shijimi clams

The three main species of shijimi clams found in Japan are the “Yamato shijimi,” which inhabits brackish waters; the “Mashi shijimi,” a freshwater species; and the “Seta shijimi,” a species endemic to Lake Biwa. The Yamato shijimi harvested from Lake Shinji prefer an environment with a salinity level between that of seawater and freshwater. Lake Shinji, where freshwater and seawater mix and salinity fluctuates gently with the tides, provides an ideal habitat for these clams.

Grown in the nutrient-rich sand at the bottom of the lake, these clams are characterized by their large size and rich umami flavor. They are truly a gift nurtured by the natural environment.

Protecting the Lake and Passing It On to Future Generations

Hiroyuki Fukuma of the “Lake Shinji Fisheries Cooperative,” an organization that manages and markets fisheries on Lake Shinji. He is one of approximately 260 people who make their living from fishing for shijimi clams.

“Resource management is key,” he says, emphasizing that the cooperative focuses not only on harvesting shijimi clams but also on preserving the lake’s environment. He emphasizes the importance of continuing fishing while protecting the resource so that future generations can make shijimi fishing their livelihood and so that it will remain a specialty of Shimane Prefecture for generations to come.

To this end, the cooperative has established strict rules regarding daily catch limits, operating hours, and days off. The catch limit is set at two boxes per person per day (each box weighing 50–60 kilograms), and while the duration of each fishing trip varies depending on the method used, it is generally limited to about three to four hours. It is mandatory to return juvenile clams measuring 12 millimeters in diameter or less to the lake.

Including fishermen who catch species other than shijimi clams, approximately 700 people belong to the association. Members span a wide age range, from their early 20s to their 80s, but the fishery can only thrive when each individual prioritizes the lake’s environment and works cooperatively.

A scene of fishermen setting out to sea, symbolic of Matsue

Around 7:00 a.m., the sound of outboard motors echoes across the calm surface of the lake as small boats set out one after another. The depth of Lake Shinji varies depending on the fishing grounds, but it is generally between 2 and 4 meters. Upon reaching their respective fishing grounds, the fishermen begin their work from their small boats.

Small boats floating quietly on Lake Shinji, shrouded in morning mist. This scene has long been cherished as a symbol of morning in Matsue City.

“Joren,” a Traditional Fishing Tool

The methods used in shijimi fishing include not only mechanized operations using diesel-powered boats but also manual methods that are still practiced today, such as “iri-kaki,” in which fishermen enter the lake directly, and “te-kaki,” in which gear is operated from the boat. The fishing method Mr. Fukuma employs is “water-flow hand-raking,” which combines hand-raking with an engine-powered pump. The gear used is a uniquely shaped tool called a “joren.” This metal implement, resembling a rake, scoops up shijimi clams while raking the sand on the lake bottom.

Water is pumped through a hose from an engine-powered pump and sprayed forcefully from the nozzle, allowing fishermen to harvest freshwater clams while turning over the sand on the lake bottom. The fisherman propels the boat by pushing a pole about 8 meters long, then moves the boat by pulling the pole toward him. He repeats this process as he searches the sandy lake bottom.

Experienced fishermen are thoroughly familiar with the water depth and lake bottom conditions at each fishing ground. This method of fishing, which requires interpreting the natural conditions, is a task that truly demands skilled craftsmanship.

Careful Sorting to Ensure Quality

As soon as the shijimi clams are hauled in, the sorting process begins immediately on board. They are first sorted by size using machinery, and then carefully sorted again by hand. Since the catch limit is set at two boxes per person, the fishermen want to remove empty shells and keep only the larger, higher-quality shijimi clams.

Sorting is also done on land after the fishing is over. Fishermen gently shake or roll the clams to listen to the sound they make. They say they can tell how plump the clams are by the way the sound resonates. The difference in sound is so subtle that a layperson cannot distinguish it, but fishermen who have spent many years working with clams can clearly hear the difference.

The Decision Made by the Fishermen Who Protected Lake Shinji

The shijimi clam fishery on Lake Shinji once faced a major crisis. In the 1950s, plans were underway to convert Lake Shinji into a freshwater lake for use as agricultural water.

If the lake were converted to freshwater, the shijimi clams, which thrive in a brackish environment, would be severely affected. Local residents launched a campaign against the plan. After a staggering 155 rounds of negotiations, the fishermen realized they could not resist the national government’s plan; they accepted compensation and agreed to the project.

The Lake Saved by Returning the Compensation Money

In 1968, the freshwater conversion project began. However, as the extent of the damage to the shijimi clams became clear, opposition grew once again among residents of the Lake Shinji watershed. Led by shijimi fishermen, the “Movement Against Freshwater Conversion” soon gained momentum. They energetically carried out activities such as large-scale rallies, fishing boat parades, and the free distribution of shijimi clams.

Although compensation had been accepted at one point, the Lake Shinji Fisheries Cooperative decided to return the funds to the national government in order to protect the freshwater clams of Lake Shinji. This action resonated with the public, and the momentum behind the opposition movement reportedly grew even stronger.

Eventually, in 1988, the national and prefectural governments announced a postponement of the freshwater conversion project. In 2002, its official cancellation was declared. The environment of Lake Shinji and the freshwater clam fishery were thus preserved thanks to the strong determination of the residents and fishermen.

Passing on the Lake’s Bounty to Future Generations

In addition to cleaning the lake bottom, the Shinji Lake Fisheries Cooperative also carries out conservation activities such as collecting and releasing freshwater clam larvae. They aim to maintain the clam population by collecting larvae floating in the center of the lake and releasing them into their natural habitat.

“The lake water has become much cleaner compared to a dozen or so years ago,” says Mr. Fukuma. He notes that the household trash that used to float along the shore has almost disappeared, and speculates that a shift in local residents’ awareness may be contributing to the improved water quality. The fact that shijimi fishing continues in this area today—and that it boasts the highest catch volume in Japan—is a testament to how local residents and fishermen have consistently protected the lake’s environment.

Even today, the sight of small boats lined up on Lake Shinji symbolizes the way of life of the people who live in harmony with the lake. This fishing tradition, passed down over many years, will surely continue into the future thanks to the fishermen and the local community.

The post Lake Shinji: A Lake They Fought to Protect, Even at the Cost of Returning Compensation Funds. Preserving Japan’s Largest Freshwater Clam Fishery for Future Generations: “Lake Shinji Fisheries Cooperative” / Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The sea off Kochi, with its beautiful horizon stretching far into the distance, sparkles as it reflects the sunlight. About a 30-minute drive from downtown Kochi City, at the base of the Yokonami Peninsula jutting out into the Pacific Ocean, lies the Kochi University Comprehensive Research Center’s Marine Biology Education and Research Facility—a spot surrounded by palm trees and exuding a tropical atmosphere.
Upon entering the building, your eyes are immediately drawn to a giant fish specimen. This fish is the “Akame,” a carnivorous species native to Japan and representative of Kochi Prefecture. Although it is a rare species at risk of extinction, many Akame still inhabit the Shimanto River estuary and Urado Bay in Kochi Prefecture. The presence of this giant fish, which can grow to nearly 2 meters in length, has long been seen as proof of the richness of the ocean and brackish waters. However, that abundance is now being seriously threatened.
Comments from fishermen—such as “We can’t catch as many as we used to” and “The fishing season has shifted”—indicate that changes in the ocean are definitely underway.

A Quiet Crisis That Began in the Seas Where Seaweed Is Disappearing

“While the global average temperature has risen by 0.6 degrees over the past 100 years, the temperature along the coast of Kochi is rising at roughly twice that rate,” says Professor Masanori Hiraoka of Kochi University, a leading expert in seaweed research.

Kochi Prefecture lies near the southern limit of temperate seaweed distribution, and in the 1970s and 1980s, the coast of Kochi was home to extensive “seaweed beds” teeming with temperate seaweed. These seaweed beds, also known as “ocean forests,” serve as hiding places for juvenile fish and as spawning grounds for squid. Abalone, turban shells, and sea urchins grow by feeding on the seaweed in these beds. Furthermore, larger fish that prey on these small fish and crustaceans are attracted to the area. The abundance of seaweed—which forms the foundation supporting marine life—was a direct reflection of the richness of the marine ecosystem itself.

A 1-degree rise in sea temperature dramatically changes the ocean

However, due to global warming, sea temperatures are rising, and these seaweed beds are now rapidly disappearing. For example, seaweeds such as aonori and kelp grow in the cold waters of winter. However, once the temperature exceeds their upper growth limit, photosynthesis and metabolism become difficult, and they can no longer maintain their cellular structure. When water temperatures rise and the seaweed senses a threat to its survival, it releases spores to ensure the survival of the next generation rather than extending its fronds and growing further, and its body eventually disintegrates and disappears.

In addition, tropical seaweeds have proliferated rapidly in recent years. Tropical species, which were rarely seen in the 1970s, expanded their range year by year throughout the 1980s, 1990s, and 2000s, and it is said that tropical species have now replaced the seaweeds most commonly found in Kochi.

A prime example of this is the tropical seaweed known as Hondawara. Whereas the native temperate Hondawara thrived almost year-round, the tropical variety grows only during warm periods, causing fish that used to inhabit the seaweed beds during colder months to lose their habitat.

Furthermore, changes in the coastal environment also affect fish further offshore. Hondawara growing along the coast can break off and drift out to sea. In Kochi, juvenile yellowtail gather around this “drifting seaweed.” Fishermen catch these juveniles—which they call “mojako”—and use them for aquaculture. Although the mojako fishing season is limited to early spring, tropical kelp does not drift ashore until summer. There are concerns that this will eventually affect the mojako fishery as well.

Furthermore, while tropical kelp can grow up to 2 meters in length, it is not suitable for human consumption, and its industrial use has not progressed.

The professor states, “Before being a food source, seaweed is the ‘foundation’ that supports the marine ecosystem. If seaweed disappears, fish migration routes will change, and the habitats of shellfish will be lost. Furthermore, it will affect the fishing industry itself.”

The Day the Aonori Disappeared from the Shimanto River

Particularly striking are the changes that have occurred at the mouth of the Shimanto River, known as the prefecture’s only seaweed production area. The seaweeds that have long supported Kochi’s food culture—Sujiaonori and Hitoegusa (Aosa-nori)—grew in the estuary where river water and seawater mix. The Shimanto River estuary, in particular, was renowned as Japan’s premier natural fishing ground for Suziaonori, and the sight of Suziaonori growing to over one meter in length was a hallmark of winter in Kochi.

Suziaonori has a strong aroma and is known as a high-quality ingredient essential for okonomiyaki and takoyaki. Hitoegusa has long been enjoyed in tsukudani and tempura. However, changes in the natural environment caused by global warming have dealt a blow to both of these species. The annual harvest of striped aosa, which once ranged from 10 to 20 metric tons, has dropped to zero in the wild since 2020. Cultivated hitoegusa has also been unavailable since 2021, and Kochi’s sole seaweed industry once completely vanished.

Kochi University Aims to Revitalize the Seaweed Industry Through Its World-Renowned “Land-Based Aquaculture”

Around the time the seaweed in the Shimanto River began to disappear, researchers at Kochi University were the first to confront this change.

“If this continues, the seaweed culture itself will disappear”—it was this sense of crisis that quietly spurred the university into action.

What turned the tide was land-based aquaculture technology. In 2004, to rebuild a sustainable seaweed industry in Kochi, Kochi University developed a land-based aquaculture system using deep-sea water off the coast of Muroto City, Kochi Prefecture, and succeeded in producing striped aonori. Muroto is one of the few places in Japan where deep-sea water can be drawn from near the shore. The deep-sea water, drawn from depths of 320 to 374 meters, maintains a stable, low temperature of approximately 10 degrees Celsius year-round, creating an environment where aonori—a type of seaweed traditionally harvested only in winter—could be cultivated year-round.

Furthermore, as research progressed, the team developed a patented technology called the “spore agglomeration method,” which involves simultaneously releasing spores, agglomerating them, and then culturing and suspending them to ensure uniform growth. The ability to stably produce high-quality, tangle-free seedlings through this method was groundbreaking even on a global scale. It dramatically improved spore survival rates, enabled mass production on land, and paved the way for industrialization.

The volume of land-based cultivation of Suziaonori initially stood at 1 metric ton but increased to 3 metric tons within a few years. It now exceeds 10 metric tons, meaning that more than half of the amount once harvested from the wild is now being regenerated on land. Land-based cultivation of Hitoegusa (Aosa nori) is also beginning in large tanks, and a stable supply is expected in the near future.

A Leading Region in Seaweed Research and Land-Based Aquaculture

Although land-based aquaculture requires significant capital investment and efficient cultivation techniques are essential, more than 20 companies nationwide have adopted Kochi University’s technology and are working to restore seaweed beds. Furthermore, there are high hopes that this technology can be applied to the restoration of natural seaweed beds and contribute to the revival of seaweed communities that have disappeared due to high water temperatures.

From Food to Energy: The Future Shaped by Seaweed—A Challenge Beginning in Kochi

The cumulative results of research—beginning with the successful land-based cultivation of seaweed in 2004—are opening up new possibilities beyond the realm of food. In Kochi, a major initiative known as the “Shimanto Seaweed Eco-Innovation Co-creation Hub Project” is currently underway. It is an effort in which government, businesses, researchers, and local residents are collaborating to cultivate seaweed and create new industries. Professor Hiraoka serves as the project leader.

Seaweed is viewed as a promising material for the future, with ongoing developments such as paper, fibers, and edible jellies made from seaweed—which can multiply three to four times in a single day—as well as biodegradable plastics derived from seaweed and research on the seaweed species Kagikeno, which, when added in small amounts to the feed of ruminants such as cattle, reduces methane emissions from their belches by 90 percent. Furthermore, given that one metric ton of seaweed absorbs one metric ton of CO₂, cultivating seaweed itself contributes to protecting the global environment. As a result, seaweed is currently attracting worldwide attention as a food source, a resource, and a material for shaping the future.

The post Vanishing Seagrass Beds and a Future of Regeneration: The Ocean’s Revival as Envisioned by the “Kochi University Comprehensive Research Center Marine Biology Research Facility” / Tosa City, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Nestled in the mountains of Hita City, Oita Prefecture, “Houkouen” has been growing pears for 70 years. Tomomi Nakama, the third-generation owner, is dedicated to preserving the sweet, juicy pears nurtured by the land’s vitality and her unwavering commitment to “sharing delicious food with her customers.”

“Hita Pears Throughout the Seasons”

In the northwestern part of Oita Prefecture, in the inland region of Kyushu bordering Fukuoka and Kumamoto, lies a town called Hita. Nestled deep within a basin surrounded by mountains, this area has long been blessed with abundant water and, due to its proximity to the headwaters of the Chikugo River, has been called the “Land of Water.” During the Edo period, it flourished as a territory directly administered by the shogunate, and even today, its historic streetscape and hot springs—which retain traces of that era—welcome visitors. In Hita, with its abundant natural beauty, there is a popular local product: pears.

Tomomi Nakama of “Houkouen” is the third-generation pear grower who has devoted his heart and soul to pear cultivation in this region. Driven by the single-minded desire to “share with customers the delicious fruits I enjoy eating myself,” his pear farming has attracted many repeat customers and garnered such strong support that he receives inquiries every year asking, “Are they ready yet?”

Houkouen began growing pears about 70 years ago, during the generation of Mr. Nakama’s grandfather. Mr. Nakama himself began working at his family’s farm immediately after graduating from college. “I always thought I would take over the business,” she explains. Having become involved in the family business at a young age, Mr. Nakama continues to dedicate herself to the unique art of pear cultivation specific to this region.

A region where various natural conditions make it ideal for pear cultivation

When it comes to pear-producing regions, Tottori and Chiba Prefectures are the first to come to mind. In terms of production volume by prefecture, Oita Prefecture ranks around 10th. However, in Hita City, a variety of pear cultivars are grown that can be shipped from late July through around December, and the local JA Pear Committee promotes this rich selection under the slogan “Hita Pears All Year Round.”

So why is it possible to grow such high-quality pears in Hita City? When I asked Mr. Nakama, he replied, “It’s the power of the land.”

Located in a basin, Hita City experiences significant temperature differences between morning and evening, with nighttime temperatures sometimes dropping to 12–13 degrees during the summer. The lower the nighttime temperature, the more sugar the fruit can store from what it has accumulated during the day. This is why areas with large temperature fluctuations are said to be ideal for fruit production. Then there’s the water. Hita City, blessed with both high-quality water and abundant water supply—so much so that it’s known as the “Land Polished by Water”—provides the perfect conditions for pear cultivation. And then there’s the soil. This region’s red clay soil, rather than sandy soil, has the ability to retain nutrients, serving as the foundation for a bountiful harvest. Temperature differences, water, and soil.

It is the convergence of these three elements that gives rise to Hita’s pears.

At Houkouen, we currently cultivate six main varieties for shipment: starting with Kosui, followed by Houzui, Shinko, Akizuki, Atago, and Okusan-kichi. In particular, the late-ripening Okusan-kichi was once cultivated throughout Japan, but because it is labor-intensive to grow, the number of producers has plummeted. As a result, it now accounts for less than 1% of total pear production, with the vast majority reportedly grown in Oita Prefecture. While Okusan-kichi has a moderate acidity, consumers have recently shown a preference for sweeter varieties with less acidity, and these changing times are reflected in the selection of varieties.

While trying to figure out what the pear tree wants,

“I look at the tree and try to determine whether it needs water or nutrients—similar to the supplements people take,” says Nakama. “I consider what to do while assessing these factors.”

Pear saplings begin to bear fruit little by little around their third year after planting. They bloom around the same time as cherry blossoms, and the sight of seven or eight blossoms opening from a single branch resembles the way cherry blossoms bloom. Harvests peak when the trees are about 20 years old, and although yields decline gradually thereafter, some trees are said to continue bearing fruit even after they are over 100 years old. To ensure the fruit grows large and firm, and to transform the sugars produced through photosynthesis into sweetness, there is no alternative but to constantly watch over the orchard and the trees, applying meticulous care at every step. It is this accumulation of time and effort that yields sweet pears.

The key is soil preparation

At Houkouen, we use organic fertilizers such as compost mixed with cow manure and sawdust, as well as fish meal and rapeseed oil cake. Continued use of these materials softens the soil, improves drainage, and promotes the healthy growth of microorganisms. While chicken manure compost is another option, we have chosen cow manure compost because it has a long-term effect on the soil, whereas chicken manure compost, though it provides immediate results, does not last as long.

Furthermore, instead of using herbicides on weeds growing in the fields, they are cut with machinery. This allows earthworms to thrive in the soil, and their castings provide organic matter that serves as food for microorganisms. Additionally, as the earthworms move around, they aerate the soil, promoting the decomposition of organic matter by microorganisms. In this way, living, fertile soil is created.

However, Mr. Nakama notes that even in this region, where various conditions for pear cultivation are ideal, there are still challenges that must be addressed.

Challenges Facing Pear Cultivation

When asked about the challenges they face in pear cultivation, three answers emerged: climate change, tree diseases, and labor shortages.

As for the climate, temperatures have been high in recent springs, causing pear trees to bloom earlier. The flowering period is the most delicate stage; if a late frost occurs at this time, the pistils turn black and wither, potentially preventing fruit from setting. Excessively hot summers, prolonged periods of rain, and then sudden, heavy downpours in a short span of time. The weather in recent years has become increasingly unpredictable, further exacerbating conditions that weaken the trees. Mr. Nakama confides that while he adapts flexibly by monitoring the weather to adjust fertilization and water management, it remains quite challenging.

Tree diseases are another source of concern. As a result of repeated breeding efforts to improve flavor, there are now more varieties that are susceptible to disease. He considered switching to organic farming, in line with global trends in agriculture, but had a bitter experience when he tried it with pears: disease spread rampantly, and the effects lingered for several years. He says he struggles to strike the right balance between using pesticides and ensuring safety.

And then there’s the labor shortage. Houkouen is no exception. Typically, pears grow about 180 cm above the ground. This means workers must keep their faces and hands raised the entire time they’re working, placing a considerable strain on their necks, shoulders, and lower backs. In the past, they could rely on local seniors and housewives who would come during peak season, but now there’s no one left to turn to. Currently, they’re managing by relying on a few local residents and bringing in workers from outside the prefecture only during peak season.

Changing the way trees are pruned to reduce the burden on workers

Faced with a workforce largely made up of inexperienced workers, Mr. Nakama changed the way the trees were pruned. “Normally, trees grow upward. However, if you bend the branches down at an angle of about 30 to 40 degrees, the fruit will grow at a slightly lower height than before. When the fruit grows at a height of about 90 cm, it makes the work easier even for inexperienced workers.”

He is shifting toward a cultivation method that allows anyone to harvest the fruit. While keeping costs down, he is also considering the future introduction of harvesting robots. Mr. Nakama is steadily exploring a path that will allow the operation to function even without human labor.

As demand for fruit continues to decline year after year,

Along with labor shortages, Mr. Nakama is facing a decline in demand for the fruit itself. For pears in particular, the fact that they must be peeled before eating is a major hurdle. While many people say they “like pears,” that doesn’t necessarily translate into purchases. He has noticed that younger generations, in particular, simply aren’t buying them; in fact, whether in stores or through online sales, about 70 percent of buyers are in their 50s or older. While varieties like Shine Muscat—which can be eaten with the skin on and have no seeds—are gaining popularity, demand for fruits that require extra effort to prepare is declining, partly due to their status as luxury items. This is Mr. Nakama’s analysis.

As a solution to this problem, Mr. Nakama is working to broaden the appeal of pears.

To Convey the Charm of Pears

In addition to selling fresh pears, Houkouen also handcrafts processed products such as juice, jam, and dried fruit. Although they can’t produce large quantities, these items are very popular because they allow people to enjoy the delicious taste of pears year-round. “Making these processed products is kind of like a hobby,” Mr. Nakama says with a laugh, but behind those words lies a sincere desire to share the appeal of pears with as many people as possible.

Among these products, “pear vinegar” is particularly unique. As the name suggests, it is vinegar made from pears. It was born from a simple idea: “If wine can be turned into balsamic vinegar, why not pears?” These unusual products have garnered a good reputation, leading to increased media coverage of Houkouen. When exhibiting at events, she brings both fresh pears and processed products. Some people choose the juicy pears, while others reach for the processed items—each person discovers the pears in their own way. Nakama says that every time she sees this, she realizes that the appeal of pears is gradually spreading.

For the Future of Pear Cultivation

Although there are currently about 100 pear farms in Hita, that number continues to decline year by year. One reason for this is that the generation that experienced a period about 15 years ago—when prices hit rock bottom to the point where farmers could no longer make a living from market sales alone—is no longer passing the business down to their children. Mr. Nakama himself has a son, but he doesn’t feel strongly that his son must take over the farm. “When I’m old enough to retire, if there’s someone who wants to take over, I’ll hand it over to them”—that is his honest sentiment. That is precisely why he is steadily continuing his efforts to adapt his cultivation methods so that production and harvesting can be managed even without ample labor or experience.

No one knows at this point what the future holds for pears. Nevertheless, with an eye on the future, Mr. Nakama continues to tend to his pears day after day. “As long as people say they’ll miss pears if they become scarce, I’ll keep going. I can’t let down the expectations of customers who buy them because they’re ‘delicious,’ so I’ll never cut corners.”

“Hita pears, all year round.” A key part of this tradition is the presence of farmers like Mr. Nakama, who pour their hearts into pear cultivation. For the sake of those eagerly awaiting this year’s pears, Mr. Nakama stands in his Hita orchard once again today.

The post “I want to broaden our reach and share the appeal of pears with as many people as possible.” Tomomi Nakama of “Houkouen” / Hita City, Oita Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kochi Prefecture is a tropical region rich in natural beauty, nurtured by the bounty of the Pacific Ocean and its mountains and rivers. Among its areas, Haruno-cho in Kochi City is a warm region facing the Pacific Ocean. It features breezes blowing in from the sea, abundant sunshine, and a landscape where plains and hills intertwine. Drawing on these natural blessings, Farm Vegeco is paving the way for the future of agriculture.

Growing Vegetables in Greenhouses in Winter: A Reversal in Agriculture

About 90 percent of Kochi Prefecture’s land area is mountainous, and rivers flowing from the Shikoku Mountains rush down as rapids before emptying into the sea. As a result, sediment does not accumulate over wide areas, and the terrain is characterized by a lack of large-scale plains. So, how can this limited flat land be put to good use? Greenhouse horticulture—which yields high crop yields even on small plots—has developed as a solution to this challenge. Open-field cultivation takes place in the mountainous areas during the summer, while greenhouse cultivation occurs in the plains during the winter. By skillfully adapting to the seasons and the terrain, a unique agricultural system specific to this region has taken shape.

The cucumbers grown by Nagasaki Asahi at Farm Vegeco are transplanted in early October, and harvesting continues daily from mid-November through June. This is a reverse approach: growing in winter crops that typically bear fruit in summer when grown in open fields. The cucumbers, having endured the cold, lose their grassy bitterness and become sweeter. Cucumbers grown in winter greenhouses possess a quiet yet robust flavor distinct from their summer counterparts.

However, in cold regions, the high cost of heating makes it difficult to expand winter cucumber cultivation on a large scale. In this regard, the Pacific coast—with its warm climate and abundant sunshine—is an ideal region for growing winter crops. Among these areas, Kochi Prefecture ranks among the top in the nation for cucumber production, hovering around 6th or 7th place in recent years. It maintains a stable position as a major production center.

Prepare the soil, observe the leaves, and grow the fruit straight

Everything hinges on the three-month summer off-season for Farm Vegeco’s cucumbers. The Nagasaki family, who are also rice farmers, incorporate large amounts of rice husks and rice bran—byproducts of rice cultivation—into the soil and allow them to ferment. This soil preparation is the reason why their winter cucumbers are surprisingly sweet. Just as nuka-zuke pickles become sweet, soil enriched with rice bran brings out the cucumbers’ natural sweetness.

The Vitality of Greenery Thriving in the Greenhouse

Inside the greenhouse, farmers carefully identify the vines—which resemble a “body” and “limbs” extending from a single cucumber plant—and adjust the number of leaves to control the amount of photosynthesis. Each leaf plays a role in nurturing the nearby fruit, so farmers must be careful not to remove too many or leave too many.

In Japanese markets, “straight cucumbers” are in demand. If a cucumber touches a leaf, it bends; if it touches the ground, it turns yellow. Farmers watch over the growth of each individual cucumber, sometimes thinning the fruit and sometimes shaping it by hand to produce “Grade A” produce. “Grade A” refers to standard products that meet specifications for shape, color, and size, with few blemishes or bends. Of course, the taste remains the same even if they’re bent. Nevertheless, the reality is that market standards dictate farmers’ incomes.

Inside the greenhouse, the cucumber vines stretch out thinly as if searching for air, their tips—which have yet to touch anything—gently swaying in midair. It is a quiet movement, almost like hesitation, before they reach out for support.

Within that subtle hint of movement lies the plant’s unwavering will, striving to choose the path its life will take from here on.

A Farm That Has Been in Operation for 50 Years and the Legacy Left by My Family

The history of Farm Vegeco dates back more than 50 years. My father, who had been working at a travel agency, was adopted into a farming family that had been growing melons and tomatoes since my grandmother’s generation, and he took over the farm. He had no prior experience in farming. Nevertheless, with his artisan’s spirit, he engaged with the soil, immersed himself in every task, and honed his skills.

By his side was my mother, who had also worked at the same travel agency. My mother, who possessed the ability to forge connections between people and nature, established the Farm Vegeco brand under the philosophy of “Vegetable Communication & Collaboration.” Valuing dialogue with chefs, she grew not only cucumbers but also herbs and a diverse range of vegetables, continually responding to the needs of culinary professionals. Furthermore, by personally visiting supermarkets in Tokyo and actively participating in product competitions, she quietly yet steadily spread the name of Farm Vegeco among the general public.

To protect the farm his parents had built and pass it on to the next generation, Mr. Nagasaki chose to work the fields himself after a stint as a salaryman in Tokyo. However, in May 2025, his mother passed away due to illness. It was his fourth year back at the farm. Though the time he spent learning directly from her was brief, the spirit she instilled in him—farming to bring joy to people’s faces—remains unchanged and continues to breathe life into the very heart of this farm.

The Reality Facing Farmers Caught Between the Market and Direct Sales

Currently, 70% of Farm Vegeco’s produce is shipped to markets, while 30% is sold directly to consumers. The farm has stopped shipping through the JA. JA shipments involve high commission fees, which can sometimes cut farmers’ take-home pay in half. Pricing is also determined by the JA, making it difficult for farmers to proactively choose their customers. On the other hand, there are significant advantages to entrusting collection, sorting, and sales to the JA, as this ensures stable sales channels.

The appeal of shipping to the market lies in the low commission—around 10 percent—which increases the farmers’ take-home pay. However, this requires farmers to handle all sorting, packing, and shipping themselves, and they are responsible for maintaining consistent quality and building trust. Even so, their love and pride in the cucumbers they grow led them to choose the path of building their own brand.

The unit price of cucumbers is determined by market rates, and farmers have no say in setting the price. Even Grade A cucumbers fetch only about 30 yen per cucumber. It’s a harsh world where non-standard cucumbers sell for just 50 yen per kilogram. Rebuilding a greenhouse costs between 30 million and 40 million yen. Even repairs alone cost millions of yen every year. This is why the number of young farmers isn’t increasing.

Even so, Mr. Nagasaki says, “Farming is fun.”

“I was fortunate to have a foundation because I took over my parents’ farm. But starting from scratch presents a high barrier to entry. If the government had a system to lease unused greenhouses to young people, the farming population would surely grow,” he says.

Increasing direct sales and building connections with chefs and supermarkets that buy at fair prices—that is the path to survival for small-scale farmers. In fact, since winning the Grand Prize at the Vegetable Sommelier Summit in 2013, Farm Vegeco’s profile has risen, and chefs from Tokyo restaurants and international hotels have begun visiting Kochi in search of the farm’s cucumbers. Some overseas chefs even seek out tiny cucumbers still bearing their blossoms. The creativity of these chefs is bringing new perspectives to the farmers.

A “Flavor” We Want to Preserve for the Future: The Aspirations of a Young Farmer

When you take a bite of a cucumber from Farm Vegeco, juice bursts out immediately after harvest, filling your mouth with freshness. What’s more, that freshness is slow to fade, even after several days. Growing slowly in winter tightens the cells, strengthening the fruit’s ability to retain moisture.
Furthermore, the fruits that have endured the winter cold have little of that grassy taste and are surprisingly sweet.

Mr. Nagasaki says, “Even after my father is gone, the last thing I want to hear is that the taste has changed.” . He has no intention of expanding the number of greenhouses. Rather than chasing scale, he prioritizes preserving flavor. And he aims to connect with people who truly appreciate their produce and are willing to pay a fair price for it. That is the future vision for Farm Vegeco.

A single cucumber grown during the winter in Kochi. Behind it lies a family’s history, the local climate, the memory of the soil, and the bonds between people. Inside the quiet greenhouse, even today, a small vine striving to grow straight is reaching out, searching for support.

The post Carrying our family’s hopes into the future. With love from “Farm Vegeco” / Kochi City, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

“I don’t want to show my children a field where not even insects appear, so I don’t use pesticides,” says Hideyo Ohtake, representative of “Nikkei Farm,” with conviction. Having dedicated himself to agriculture for over 17 years, he is committed to growing vegetables using only organic fertilizers and no pesticides whatsoever. He now cultivates as many as 100 varieties of vegetables annually and is one of the leaders shaping the future of agriculture in Koriyama City, Fukushima Prefecture. He is also known for his “Legend Spinach,” which won the Grand Gold Award at the 2024 “Vegetable Sommelier Summit,” and has garnered attention from across the country. Together with his wife, Shiho—who manages sales at their farm’s direct-sales shop while he tends the fields—and his staff, he is dedicated to growing vegetables that bring joy to people.

I switched careers from hairdressing to farming. In terms of bringing joy to people, it was the same.

As it turns out, Ms. Otake’s first job after graduating from high school was as a hairdresser. “Back in high school, when a hairdresser helped me solve a problem with my hair, the words ‘Thank you’ just naturally came out of my mouth. I thought to myself that someday I’d like to make people happy as a hairdresser too, so I became an apprentice.”

Even back then, the Ohtake family owned a vegetable garden, but when his mother—who had been involved in farming—became too ill to tend the fields, he took over the farm. Driven by a sense of gratitude for having been able to pursue a career as a hairstylist, he eventually decided—after much deliberation—to leave the beauty industry and dedicate himself to farming.

“I never imagined I’d quit hairdressing to pursue farming, so I’m surprised even by myself. At first, I didn’t want to do it—I thought getting covered in mud was uncool. But when someone who ate our vegetables said, ‘That was delicious. Thank you,’ I realized that whether as a hairdresser or a farmer, the act of bringing joy to people is the same. That’s when the desire to make people happy through farming began to take root,” she recalls with a smile.

The creatures living in the soil are our vital partners, indispensable to agriculture.

Frustrated by people telling him that “pesticide-free farming is difficult,” Mr. Otake started by planting 1,000 corn stalks. However, the corn was completely wiped out by damage from palm civets, crows, and insects. Drawing on that experience, he devised strategies such as installing electric fences to keep out palm civets, and gradually increased his success rate. “When you cultivate crops while nurturing microorganisms, it seems that problems caused by continuous cropping—such as vegetable pathogens and stunted growth—don’t occur,” he says, confident in his unique organic farming method.

It has been about 17 years since he became a farmer. With his eager-to-learn and determined personality, Mr. Otake has taken on the challenge of growing a wide variety of vegetables. He began by simply learning about farming, gaining experience through conversations with veteran farmers and receiving guidance, and gradually developed his own style through trial and error.

What Mr. Ohtake values most in vegetable farming is preserving traditional farming methods without using pesticides. However, he is by no means opposed to pesticides. He says that his childhood memories of fun experiences have influenced this perspective.

“I’ve always loved insects; I used to catch rhinoceros beetles and dragonflies. It used to be normal to see frogs in the rice paddies and insects in the fields, but perhaps because people started using pesticides, they disappeared before I knew it. Through my hands-on experience in farming, I’ve learned that it’s the soil that grows the vegetables. By changing how we prepare the soil, the soil microorganisms also change, leading to healthy soil. “When the soil is healthy, the insect population naturally increases. So, in fact, I get hints on how to grow vegetables from the insects themselves. I’m proud to show my children the fields where the insects thrive,” he says with a cheerful smile. He explains that, for insects, the fields are like a restaurant. Rather than selfishly using pesticides, he minimizes interference with the soil and gradually increases the microbial population through green manure. He has built his current farming style on the philosophy that “I am privileged to grow vegetables using soil that is home to insects.”

Overcoming the hardships following the earthquake, they are preserving agriculture with passion

While studying agriculture, Mr. Otake has also pursued his own standards when it comes to distribution. After exploring ways to deliver pesticide-free vegetables and rare, diverse varieties to those who seek them, he decided against supplying markets or agricultural cooperatives (JA). Instead, he has maintained a unique business model of selling directly to contracted retailers and restaurants, while also offering seasonal vegetables at his farm’s own retail outlet.

While Nikkei Farm may appear to have followed a smooth path in agriculture, over the past 17 years it has weathered the reputational damage following the Great East Japan Earthquake and the COVID-19 pandemic, overcoming numerous difficult situations where they were forced to discard the vegetables they had grown.

“Before the earthquake, about 80 percent of our sales came from supplying restaurants in Tokyo through a broker specializing in the foodservice industry, while the local market accounted for about 20 percent. However, due to the reputational damage caused by the earthquake and the nuclear accident, that 80 percent vanished overnight,” he recalls. Since even residents of Fukushima Prefecture were shunning locally grown vegetables at the time, his wife, Shiho, says, “When I think back on those days, I still can’t hold back my tears.” For a while, their daily routine consisted of growing produce only to throw it away, which took a heavy toll on them both physically and mentally. The company was operating at a continuous loss and was barely viable, but they were supported by the reopening of local restaurants and have been taking small steps toward recovery ever since.

“It was truly painful and difficult for about 10 years. However, while many people were forced to give up farming after the disaster, we resolved that we must carry on the agricultural traditions of Fukushima Prefecture and Koriyama into the future,” he says, expressing his feelings for his hometown.

At our farm stand, we sell fresh, seasonal vegetables grown with organic fertilizer.

Tucked away in a quiet residential neighborhood in Otsuki-cho, Koriyama City, the Nikkei Farm direct sales shop carries a wide variety of vegetables—primarily their own, but also those from other producers who grow delicious produce. The small shop is lined with colorful vegetables and rare varieties rarely seen elsewhere, bringing smiles to visitors’ faces. Grown without pesticides and using organic fertilizers, the vegetables are packed with the bounty of nature, boasting rich flavors and aromas. During the summer, in addition to edamame, zucchini, and green beans, colorful cherry tomatoes, beets, and “Kyomanju” (eggplant) make their appearance. The round, adorable salad squash and freshly picked corn are so fresh they can be eaten raw.

“Although it’s just a verbal recommendation, I introduce customers to several recipes they can enjoy using the vegetables we sell,” says Shiho, who runs the farm stand, with a smile. “It’s fun to talk to them directly, and I’m happy to be able to convey the appeal of our vegetables.” She adds that many people visit the stand after tasting dishes made with Nikkei Farm’s vegetables at local restaurants and wanting to try cooking with them themselves.

It’s as sweet as fruit. Corn you can eat raw

Nikkei Farm, which cultivates as many as 100 varieties annually, operates on a “small quantities, wide variety” model; however, even among these, its flagship product—corn—accounts for shipments of as many as 26,000 ears. During the three-month summer peak season, the farm harvests the corn every day around 3:00 a.m. and ships it while it’s still fresh and just-picked. This is because corn accumulates starch (sugar) overnight, and it is at its sweetest in the morning. In addition, corn harvested early in the morning has a higher moisture content, making it easier to maintain freshness and helping to prevent quality deterioration caused by the daytime heat.

At Nikkei Farm, corn is grown for about 10 days longer than usual, which concentrates the sweetness and deepens the flavor. The white corn variety “Pure White” maintains a high sugar content of 22.5 degrees, while the yellow corn maintains 21.5 degrees.

“We harvest the corn by feeling the top of the cob to make sure the kernels are firm, checking the base, and judging by the dryness and color of the silks,” says Mr. Otake, holding a cob of Pure White. He explains that by taking measures such as cutting the stems and reducing the number of leaves to prevent the corn earworm—a well-known corn pest—pest damage has been dramatically reduced.

“I recommend eating white corn raw. You can enjoy its juiciness and fresh sweetness. For yellow corn, cooking it slightly brings out more sweetness,” he told us.

I want to move many people with the taste of vegetables.

“I still have so many dreams,” says Mr. Otake with a smile. One of those dreams—which has become his own farming philosophy—is to move people with the taste of his vegetables.

He hopes to become the kind of farmer where parents and children don’t view eating or serving vegetables as a chore, but rather—just as children ask for candy—think, “The vegetables over there are delicious,” or “I want to eat that corn, so please buy some for me.”

“I believe that if I can convey the fun and message of farming through childhood experiences, the fields will continue to be places where vegetables are grown for generations to come. It also makes me happy when people say they’d like to visit the fields again.”

Furthermore, he notes that the current situation—where consumers take cheap vegetables for granted—is certainly not what farmers want, adding, “It’s also important for people to understand the challenges farmers face and change their mindset.”

“I’ve overcome many difficulties, but looking back now, I’m glad I chose farming. If there’s something I can do for others, I’ll do my best,” says Mr. Otake. Shiho, sitting beside him, nods vigorously in agreement. To continue seeing those smiling faces that say, “That was delicious!” they will press forward on their unique path in agriculture, finding fulfillment in their work every day.

The post Hideyo Otake of “Nikkei Farm,” which pursues delicious, seasonal vegetables using farming methods that are gentle on people and the environment / Koriyama City, Fukushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Uppurui Town is located along the Sea of Japan in Izumo City, Shimane Prefecture. The Uppurui nori harvested here is wild rock nori that is hand-picked while braving the rough winter seas. This tradition—nurtured by strong winds and waves and carried on as a way of life to reap the bounty of the sea—remains deeply rooted in this place to this day. Amid the intertwining of history and nature, this nori has been passed down as something truly special.

Uppurui nori: Nurtured on the rocky shores of the Sea of Japan and passed down through generations

Uppurui is a town in Izumo City, Shimane Prefecture, facing the Sea of Japan. Its coastline features a unique landscape with a series of large and oddly shaped rocks lining the tip of the cape. This scenery, shaped over many years by the rough waves of the Sea of Japan, is considered one of the most beautiful coastal views in the San’in region.

Clinging to these rocky shores is the region’s specialty: Uppurui nori. This naturally grown rock seaweed has a long history; it is said to have been presented to the imperial court during the Nara and Heian periods and treated as a tribute to the shogunate during the Edo period.

A Harvesting Site Where We Continue to Work in Harmony with Nature

Uppurui nori can only be harvested during the short period from December to February. It grows in harsh conditions—strong seasonal winds and rough waves—and these conditions directly determine the quality of the nori.

While there used to be nearly 50 Uppurui nori producers in the village, that number has now dwindled to just over a dozen. Annual production is said to be less than one metric ton. Furthermore, since most of it is consumed within the prefecture, it is a rare type of nori that is rarely found outside the prefecture.

Mineo Hino is one of the few who continues to harvest Uppurui nori.

He has been involved with Uppurui nori for about 70 years. Although he once moved to Osaka, he returned to this place after his father—a Uppurui nori fisherman—asked him to come back.

“Uppurui nori is a gift from the sea.”

His words reveal the essence of a livelihood lived in harmony with nature. Rather than being something people create, it is a gift from the sea that they receive. That mindset is what sustains this way of life.

A Harvest on a Rocky Shore Battered by Rough Waves

To reach the rocky shore where the nori is harvested, you first walk along a mountain trail for about 15 to 20 minutes. As you proceed along the narrow, rugged path, you’ll come upon a rocky slope facing the sea.

From a distance, the area looks like nothing more than black rocks, but they’re densely covered with Uppurui nori. Up close, the rocks are wet and glistening, changing their appearance with every wave that crashes against them.

Because waves constantly crash against the rocks, you must remain vigilant at all times. The waves reach right up to your feet and sometimes even splash over your body. It is truly a life-threatening task.

Wearing a rain suit and rubber boots, Mr. Hino goes about his work with calm determination. The way he continues working without flinching, even as the waves crash against him, speaks to the depth of experience he has accumulated in this place.

Using years of experience to read the swell

The harvest of Uppurui nori—a type of wild rock seaweed—is heavily dependent on natural conditions. If the waves are too strong, the seaweed tears; if they are too weak, it does not grow sufficiently.

What is required is a narrow window of conditions where strength and calm coexist.

From November through February, when the harvest takes place, the Sea of Japan becomes extremely rough due to strong seasonal winds. Waves constantly crash against the rocky shores, and the slime from the nori makes the rocks slippery. If you misjudge the timing, there is a risk of being swept away by the waves; one wrong step can be a matter of life and death.

Mr. Hino watches the swell of the waves and picks the nori, weaving his way through the gaps between them. This work, which involves moving his body in sync with nature’s rhythm, is supported by his many years of experience.

He says he learned this technique by watching his parents. He picked it up by imitating them as he helped out, and even now, he continues to make judgments based on the sea conditions of the day.

The feel in his hands as he harvests the seaweed is also crucial. If he applies too much force, the fibers will snap, leaving the strands shorter. He picks them gently yet firmly. It is the accumulation of this delicate work that determines the quality of the seaweed.

Finished by hand, one by one, to preserve their natural state

After finishing the early morning work and wrapping up around noon, the next step is the nori drying process.

The nori is spread out on bamboo mats called “nori-su,” where it is shaped into single sheets while preserving its natural fibers and form. The workers use their sense of touch to arrange the nori evenly, taking into account how thick it will be once dry.

The finished nori is black and has a strong aroma. Compared to the soft, melt-in-your-mouth texture of typical farmed nori, it is characterized by the crisp, crunchy texture unique to wild rock nori and a strong, briny flavor.

Passing on Izumo’s Culinary Culture and the Art of Seaweed Harvesting to the Next Generation

Uppurui nori is an indispensable ingredient in New Year’s ozoni soup in the Izumo region. When floated in the broth with mochi, it fills the air with the scent of the sea, transforming it into a truly special bowl of soup.

In this way, Uppurui nori has been passed down as a food for festive occasions.

Meanwhile, Mr. Hino says, “I want people to know there are many ways to enjoy it, not just in ozoni.” You can savor its flavor in everyday dishes such as tempura, chawanmushi, rice balls, and soba.

Passing on the traditions that have been handed down through the generations

In the past, Mr. Hino and his wife, Mihoko, used to harvest the seaweed together, but since Mihoko developed a leg condition, Mr. Hino has taken the lead in the work. Because working alone on the rocky shores where waves crash is dangerous, a new person has now joined them, and they continue the harvest while supporting one another.

This work requires experience and cannot be easily passed on. Reading the waves, the proper way to harvest, and making decisions on the job—all of these skills have been cultivated over a long period of time.

Nevertheless, training the next generation is essential to passing on Uppurui nori to future generations. As they stand together on the rocky shores, that intuition and judgment are gradually passed down.

Leaving things to nature while taking only what is necessary—that approach will never change.

May each sheet harvested from these waters find its way to dining tables in Izumo, across the nation, and beyond. The legacy of Uppurui nori, too, will quietly be passed on to the next generation.

The post “Uppurui nori”: Natural rock seaweed nurtured by the Sea of Japan and harvested by hand, a tradition passed down through generations—Mineo Hino, Izumo City, Shimane Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The first bite is rich and creamy; the second is smooth and refreshing. “Milkoro Aging Yogurt,” a two-layer bottled yogurt, is a popular product that has won numerous awards, including the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award. Yusuke Oyabu, the mastermind behind the product and a dairy farmer himself, is creating a place where cows’ lives shine through “product development that wins consumers’ hearts.”

Hearing my father express his vulnerabilities for the first time, I decided to take on the family business.

Koshishi, a bedroom community of Kumamoto City, continues to see population growth. “Ooyabu Dairy Farm” is located in one corner of the city.

Founded in 1975, the farm began by raising Holsteins—a breed that accounts for more than 90 percent of Japan’s dairy cattle—and milking and shipping the milk. Yusuke Ooyabu, the current president, took over the family business and began farming in 2001. However, it wasn’t simply a matter of being forced into the family business; rather, he was inspired to become a farmer after meeting a dairy farming couple who traveled abroad every year for training in the United States. He was deeply moved by their way of life—one in which they used “dairy farming” to enrich and shape their own lives—and this encounter became the catalyst for his decision to enter the industry. He had long harbored doubts about the traditional dairy industry structure, but upon witnessing firsthand a standardized industrial system that no individual could possibly change—even if he were to rise to a high position within the industry—he gradually lost motivation and spent his days in a state of frustration.

What dealt the final blow to Mr. Oyabu’s morale was the nationwide production adjustment of raw milk. Production adjustment is a government policy implemented—for example, when dairy product inventories become excessive—that requires producers to curb raw milk production. It takes two years from the time a calf is born until it can be milked. Once the number of dairy farms or the herd size is reduced, it becomes difficult to restore production levels in the short term. For this reason, rather than limiting herd size, inventory levels are adjusted by requiring producers to discard raw milk.

The emotional state of producers who work tirelessly to raise their cows, only to be ordered to discard large quantities of the raw milk they have finally managed to produce, is not something others can easily put into words. Moreover, production adjustments are repeated multiple times depending on inventory levels, and each time, producers bear not only a psychological burden but also the heavy financial burden of declining profits.

In fact, in 2006, a massive surplus of raw milk occurred, and in Hokkaido alone, the equivalent of 900,000 cartons—approximately 900 metric tons—of raw milk was discarded.

That said, cows must be milked every single day; otherwise, they develop mastitis and, in the worst cases, die. It is precisely because of their sense of responsibility and love for these animals that farmers continue to care for them and milk them daily, even when they know the milk will be discarded.

Furthermore, it takes about three years from a calf’s birth until it can be milked for the first time. If we were to limit herd sizes now—for example, by culling cows—simply because there is a surplus of milk, there is a risk that supply would fall short in a few years if a nationwide heatwave were to cause milk production to drop across the country.

Furthermore, dairy farming is a “capital-intensive industry” requiring initial investments ranging from tens of millions to hundreds of millions of yen—covering barn construction, milking robots, tractors, and the dozens of cows themselves. Much of this is financed through long-term loans, so simply saying, “It’s too hard—I’m quitting tomorrow,” is rarely an option.

Overwhelmed by despair, Ms. Oyabu heard Masakatsu voice his frustrations for the very first time. It was a moment when her father’s figure seemed small to her. And she realized that, without even noticing, she had been averting her eyes from the harsh realities of dairy farming.

Ms. Oyabu decided to confront the family business head-on. There was no future in continuing with the same methods. In a dairy farming system where milk is simply shipped to the agricultural cooperative, they have no control over either the price or the volume of their shipments. If they remained trapped in a system where their efforts went unrewarded, it would be difficult to support their family or pass the farm on to the next generation. Feeling a strong sense of crisis about the farm’s current situation, Mr. Oyabu decided to make a major shift—moving away from a dairy farming model focused solely on shipping milk to one where they would create value on their own.

Original Yogurt That Only Dairy Farmers Can Make

What, exactly, could they do? How could they ensure that the lives of the cows born at “Ooyabu Daily Farm” were not wasted, but instead allowed to shine? As he searched for an answer, Mr. Ooyabu arrived at the idea of creating highly original dairy products under the farm’s own brand. Around that time, the farm had also begun raising Jersey cows, which have higher nutritional value than Holsteins and whose raw milk is relatively rare. Mr. Ooyabu learned yogurt production techniques from experienced dairy farmers and bacterial testing methods from a technical support agency in Kumamoto Prefecture. In 2012, he built a small, 2.5-meter-square processing facility on the farm grounds and began producing yogurt using raw milk from his own herd. This is how “Milkoro Aging Yogurt” was born.

“Milkoro Aging Yogurt” has only two ingredients: raw milk from our own Jersey cows and beet sugar. Generally, raw milk undergoes a process called homogenization to uniform the milk fat and stabilize quality, but at “Ooyabu Dairy Farm,” we do not homogenize the milk; instead, we use it as is. As a result, the fat separates and rises to the surface as a layer of cream. Because Jersey cow’s milk is high in fat, the cream layer becomes thick, resulting in a two-layered yogurt—one layer of cream and one layer of yogurt. Believing that this uniqueness adds to the product’s value, they chose raw milk from Jersey cows rather than Holsteins. The two layers have distinct flavors: the cream layer is rich and velvety, like a rare cheesecake, while the yogurt layer offers a smooth, refreshing taste. It possesses such complex aromas and umami that it’s hard to believe it’s made with just two ingredients. Furthermore, the cream layer acts as a lid, allowing fermentation to continue daily within the yogurt layer, where lactic acid bacteria multiply and the flavor evolves over time. That is why we call it “Aging.”

But these aren’t the only features of “Milkoro Aging Yogurt.” Jersey cows are raised on a diet primarily consisting of flaxseed—which is rich in omega-3 fatty acids, an essential component for various bodily functions—and their raw milk naturally contains high levels of omega-3 fatty acids. Furthermore, through repeated selective breeding on the farm, the Jersey cows at “Ooyabu Dairy Farm” have been bred to produce beta-casein A2 milk. Beta-casein A2 milk is said to have a structure similar to that of human breast milk; it is easily absorbed and less likely to cause inflammation in the digestive tract, so it is said to be less likely to cause stomach rumbling when consumed.

“Ooyabu Dairy Farm’s” product development capabilities, which leverage the unique characteristics of its milk, have been recognized nationwide, earning the farm numerous awards, including the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award at the 2019 Sixth Industry Awards. The farm has significantly expanded its sales channels, with its yogurt now served at breakfast on JR Kyushu’s luxury train “Seven Stars in Kyushu” and at some of Japan’s leading luxury hotels.

I don’t want to turn a blind eye to the fact that there are lives whose births are not celebrated.

It goes without saying that cows have genders. Female dairy cows produce milk, while males do not. Therefore, males are raised for beef. However, male Jersey calves are often culled shortly after birth because they are smaller in stature and grow more slowly than Holsteins, resulting in lower profitability.

The probability of a male calf being born is about 50%. Mr. Oyabu had long been troubled by the fact that he couldn’t bring himself to feel truly happy from the bottom of his heart when he learned that a calf born on his farm was a male. He didn’t want to turn a blind eye to the reality that there are lives whose births are not celebrated simply because of human convenience. Since they had been born anyway, he wanted to create a place where the lives of male calves could shine. Driven by this desire, he began an initiative to raise male calves until they were one year old—just barely within the break-even point—and then process them into meat. By incorporating this meat into the menu at “MILK’ORO LAB.”—a new café opened on the ranch grounds—he has created a system that carries the baton of life forward.

It was discovered that by raising male calves on a diet primarily consisting of flaxseed—which is rich in omega-3 fatty acids, just like the female calves—the meat contains “ALA (alpha-linolenic acid),” a type of unsaturated fatty acid that aids in anti-aging. Furthermore, the meat is tender and has excellent flavor. If it is not only functional but also delicious, that becomes a reason for consumers to choose it. These efforts have attracted attention even outside the industry, and in June 2025, the farm won second place at the “Japan’s Treasure Legend Grand Prix,” an event held at the Osaka Expo venue to honor outstanding regional foods.

“Developing Products That Stand Out” Will Be the Key to the Future of Dairy Farming

At “Ooyabu Daily Farm,” we actively conduct food education activities centered around “MILK’ORO LAB.” We offer hands-on experiences—such as milking and dairy processing—that allow participants to feel the warmth of life and understand the cycle of food, welcoming approximately 2,000 visitors annually, primarily local children.
Through dairy farming experiences, we hope visitors will feel the warmth of life, and through manufacturing experiences, we hope they will realize that we all depend on others for our survival. However, even if such complex concepts don’t immediately sink in, Mr. Ooyabu believes that simply stepping onto the farm and seeing the cows with their own eyes will allow visitors to feel something meaningful. He also believes that, so that children who develop an interest in cows and the farm will see dairy farming as a promising career, it is crucial for “Ooyabu Dairy Farm” to first establish a sustainable business model. To that end, “developing products that consumers choose” will be the key to the future of dairy farming. As he spoke passionately about his future vision, his eyes were filled with the determination and strength needed to carry the reality of life on the farm into the future.

The post “My mission is to create a place where the lives of cows shine.” Yusuke Oyabu of “Oyabu Dairy Farm” / Koshi City, Kumamoto Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Hiroyuki Kadowaki (pictured right), owner of “CAFE ROSSO,” who took second place at the “World Barista Championship,” one of the world’s largest barista competitions. A barista who has taken on the world from Shimane, he has pursued his own unique cup of coffee through in-house roasting. His younger brother, Yuji (pictured left), who runs “CAFFE VITA,” has also won numerous awards in domestic competitions, including championships, and is active as a seminar instructor and judge. The two are based in Shimane Prefecture, where they were born and raised. Why do they continue to brew coffee here, despite possessing the skills to succeed on the world stage?

My vision of the future was inspired by everyday life with coffee

The ground floor of his family home was a coffee shop, where his father, Yoshimi, brewed coffee every day. He always passed by the shop on his way to and from school. It was a scene he took for granted.

“When I was in eighth grade, the shop switched to in-house roasting, and the coffee became much better,” recalls Hiroyuki. “As I visited various shops with my father to compare the flavors, I found it fascinating that ‘only my father could create that particular taste.’”

Watching his father at work, a future in the coffee business naturally began to take shape. However, as he started to think more concretely about his career path, the feeling that “I can’t surpass my father’s coffee” began to take root. Rather than taking over the shop, he decided he wanted to open his own place, expressing himself in a way that only he could. Driven by this desire, after graduating from high school, he took a job at a Western-style pastry shop in Osaka to learn how to make desserts. He worked as a pastry chef for six years, laying the groundwork to expand his creative expression as a café owner.

In search of my own unique flavor, I headed to Italy

In the mid-1990s, foreign coffee chains began entering the Japanese market. Espresso machines—still a rarity at the time—along with diverse menus and bright, open-concept stores, spread primarily in urban areas, introducing a new way of enjoying coffee. Until then, drip coffee—made by pouring hot water over ground beans—had been the mainstream in Japan. Espresso, brewed under high pressure, was still virtually unknown. “I felt like the possibilities of coffee had suddenly expanded, and I was convinced that ‘this is going to catch on.’” Upon learning that its roots lay in Italy, Hiroyuki traveled there to experience the authentic taste firsthand. He had found the style he wanted to pursue.

Create and nurture your own sense of direction

Espresso is the standard in Italian coffee culture. Yoshi traveled from northern to southern Italy, visiting countless bars (cafés). He gradually developed his own vision for coffee by observing not only the flavors but also the layout of the shops and how customers relaxed. After returning to Japan, he mastered the operation of espresso machines while learning the art of in-house roasting at his father’s shop. Then, in 1999, he opened his own shop, “CAFE ROSSO,” in Yasugi City, the same town as his father’s. Watching his older brother, Yuji naturally decided to pursue a career in coffee as well. Like his brother, he worked at a pastry shop and explored his own style in Italy. He later opened “CAFFE VITA” in Matsue City.

Taking on the Barista Championship

A few years after opening, a turning point arrived. A business partner asked them, “There’s a contest coming up—would you like to enter?” The competition in question was the “Japan Barista Championship,” organized by the Japan Specialty Coffee Association. It is one of the largest barista competitions in the country, held with the aim of promoting a culture of high-quality coffee. Specialty coffee refers to high-quality coffee that meets specific evaluation standards, and a barista’s brewing skills are essential to bringing out its full flavor. The competition evaluates participants comprehensively on factors such as flavor quality, technical skill, and hospitality. They entered the 2003 competition simply to test their skills. To their surprise, Hiroyuki won first place and Yuji took second. It was the moment their skills were objectively recognized.

Runner-up at the World Championship. The decision to roast their own beans that led to this achievement

In 2005, Hiroyuki competed in the World Barista Championship. This global competition, open only to winners of the aforementioned national tournament, marked his debut as a representative of Japan. The judging criteria included not only taste but also service skills and presentation. At the time, it was no easy feat for an Asian to take on the espresso culture of Europe and the United States.

However, Hiroyuki took second place with a unique presentation featuring beans he had roasted himself. “Back then, almost everyone used commercially available beans. But I used beans I roasted myself and competed with an original flavor profile.” He established the foundation of the flavor through roasting and maximized that flavor during extraction. This choice, made to create a taste unlike any other, is undoubtedly still alive in his coffee-making today.

Our Commitment to Roasting: What Defines the Taste of Our Coffee

Even with the same beans, the flavor of coffee can vary greatly depending on the roast. Slight differences in heat and time can affect the acidity, sweetness, and body. “I once drank coffee brewed by a top-tier barista and was amazed by the depth of flavor. I thought, ‘I want to aim for this taste,’ but I realized that brewing alone wasn’t enough—I needed to create the flavor through roasting. That’s when I decided to seriously pursue roasting,” he says, recounting his beginnings. He wants to take full responsibility for the flavor, right to the very end.

Designing the flavors we want to deliver

Since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, more people have been enjoying coffee at home. At the shop run by the two of them, they also sell coffee beans and drip bags. Authentic ways of enjoying coffee, such as grinding the beans and brewing them yourself, are becoming increasingly popular. “To ensure our customers can enjoy delicious coffee, we deliver beans that have been carefully roasted to bring out their full flavor. While our baristas bring out the maximum flavor in the shop, it’s difficult to replicate that at home. That’s why we’re researching the timing of the roast and the proportion of the bean’s outer layer to ensure it tastes great no matter who brews it,” says Yuji. Their current goal is to achieve a rich, reddish-brown crema (foam) and a body that holds its own against milk.

Hiroyuki, too, remains unwavering in his pursuit of the ideal flavor, saying, “I want to convey the thrill I felt when I drank coffee in Naples, Italy.”

They aim to bring happiness through coffee. Roasting is simply one means to that end.

We continue to create coffee that complements any occasion

In recent years, there has also been growing interest in specialty coffee that emphasizes specific origins. Single-origin coffee, made from beans produced in a specific region, stands out for its distinct character. On the other hand, the appeal of blends—which combine beans from multiple origins—lies in the diverse flavors they offer depending on the mix.

The shop carries two types of coffee beans: Arabica and Robusta. While Arabica beans have a vibrant aroma and fruity acidity, Robusta beans are characterized by their strong bitterness and deep body. By carefully assessing each origin and its unique characteristics, they create the optimal flavor profile.

With coffee bean prices continuing to rise, they suggest a variety of ways to enjoy coffee: “For everyday life, enjoy a wide range of flavors with an affordable blend, and on special occasions, treat yourself to the luxurious experience of single-origin coffee.”

The coffee they serve isn’t meant to impress with its “greatness”; rather, it’s a cup that naturally makes you say, “This is delicious.”

In a town where the tea ceremony culture runs deep, we are dedicated solely to coffee

The Matsue area is also known for the fact that during the Edo period, the feudal lord Matsudaira Fumai promoted the tea ceremony. In this town, where the culture of the tea ceremony has taken root, a daily cup of tea has always been cherished. Coffee, too, is something to be enjoyed naturally as part of everyday life. What they seek is not a taste that surprises, but one that makes you want to have another cup.

When asked about their future plans, Hiroyuki says, “We want to pursue our own unique coffee and share it with the whole country. We aim for a flavor that makes people think, ‘I didn’t know coffee could taste this good.’” Yuji adds, “We want to offer ways to enjoy coffee from various angles. We don’t just run a café; we also hold coffee machine demonstrations and seminars.”

Hiroyuki refines the “flavor,” while Yuji spreads the “culture.” While their approach of staying close to everyday life is a common thread, their individual passions are guiding coffee-infused living in a positive direction. The cup of coffee born in Shimane will continue to enrich the daily lives of many people.

The post In pursuit of the perfect cup of coffee that enriches everyday life. Hiroyuki and Yuji Kadowaki / Yasugi City and Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.