Based in Morioka City and Shiwa Town in Iwate Prefecture, “Sun Farm” Ltd. produces fruit trees and rice. Guided by the philosophy of “doing things differently,” President Satoshi Yoshida cultivates a wide variety of apples, including rare overseas varieties. The collection includes a staggering 140 varieties—it’s practically an apple museum.

“Sun Farm”: Committed to Iwate, Starting with “Soil Preparation”

Iwate Prefecture is a major apple-producing region, second only to Aomori and Nagano prefectures. Its history of apple cultivation predates that of Aomori and Nagano; apple cultivation is said to have begun in Morioka City in 1872.

　“Sun Farm” is an agricultural corporation based in Morioka City—which boasts the highest apple production volume in the prefecture—and the neighboring town of Shiwa to its south. The company grows apples and other fruit trees, as well as rice. It was founded by a family of farmers whose lineage has continued in this region for generations, and is currently led by Satoshi Yoshida, the 11th-generation head of the family.

Under the concept of “Iwate from Soil Preparation Onward,” the company practices circular agriculture using compost and oyster shells produced within Iwate Prefecture. Its apples and rice have earned “Special Cultivation” certification, which requires that pesticide use be kept to less than half that of conventional farming. The company also operates tourist farms where visitors can pick cherries and blueberries; people come from the local area, the Tokyo metropolitan area, and even overseas to enjoy the harvest experience.

140 Varieties of Cooking Apples, Curated by a Former Trading Company Employee

Mr. Yoshida is originally from Joetsu City in Niigata Prefecture. After graduating from the Faculty of Agriculture at Yamagata University, he joined a trading company specializing in aquaculture equipment. Following his marriage in 1995, he moved to Morioka City—the hometown of his wife, Mika—and joined Sun Farm, a business run by his father-in-law. Starting with no prior experience, he plunged into the world of agriculture and dedicated himself to mastering cultivation techniques, while also working to reform the business by launching initiatives such as a tourist fruit orchard and a direct-sales operation.

Among his initiatives, he has placed particular emphasis on cooking apples. He cultivates approximately 140 varieties, focusing primarily on rare varieties with a strong tart flavor. “In terms of the number of varieties we handle, I believe we’re probably number one in Japan,” Mr. Yoshida says with pride.

I’m a relative newcomer to apple farming. That’s exactly why I want to do things differently from everyone else.

Morioka City in Iwate Prefecture was one of the first places in Japan to introduce “dwarfing cultivation,” and the adoption rate there is over 90 percent. “Dwarfing cultivation” is a method in which fruit trees are grafted onto “dwarfing rootstocks”—which naturally suppress plant growth—and trained to grow at a low height. The benefits of this method include easier cultivation management and harvesting due to the trees’ compact size, as well as the ability to grow high-quality fruit because sunlight reaches every part of the tree.

Although the area has a long history of apple cultivation, the orchard was not growing apples when Mr. Yoshida began helping out there. “Our family has been farming for generations, but we didn’t start growing apples until 2009. Compared to our neighbors, we were latecomers,” says Mr. Yoshida. That is precisely why he says he makes a conscious effort to focus on “doing things that others aren’t doing.”

“The JA cooperatives in Iwate Prefecture handle 22 varieties of apples. Most apple farmers grow one of these 22 varieties, and the apples they grow are lumped together with those from other producers and distributed to the market. I felt that made it hard to stand out and wasn’t very interesting. So I decided to compete on a completely different playing field, and starting the following year—2010—I began expanding our variety selection.”

Most apples grown and distributed in Japan are sweet varieties meant for fresh consumption, such as Fuji and Jonagold. Mr. Yoshida decided to “go in the opposite direction” and focused on varieties with a strong tartness that are well-suited for cooking. He believed there was significant demand, particularly among restaurants, for cooking apples whose flavor is enhanced when heated. Therefore, he set his primary target audience as chefs and pastry chefs and visited restaurants and pastry shops across the country to understand their needs.

“As I spoke with various chefs, I came to realize that the characteristics required in apples differ depending on the intended dish or use—for example, apples that don’t release much moisture when baked, or those that break down easily when made into jam. So I started by searching for varieties suited to each specific need.”

The 140 varieties currently grown include classic British varieties such as “Bramley” and “Cox’s Orange Pippin,” as well as “Calville Blanc,” which originated in France. While the focus is on foreign varieties, they also handle rare domestic varieties such as “Moon Rouge,” which originated in Nagano Prefecture. In addition, they have set aside a portion of the orchard as a test plot where they trial-grow new varieties every year.

“Many of the countries of origin for these foreign varieties have drier climates with less rainfall than Japan. It’s difficult to grow them in Japan’s hot and humid climate, and there are some varieties we’ve had to give up on,” says Mr. Yoshida. Rather than trying to forcefully overcome the differences in the fruits’ characteristics through technical means, he explains, “We select and grow varieties that retain their unique characteristics and subtle nuances even when cultivated in Japan’s climate.”

Furthermore, the farm is reportedly working on breeding its own original varieties, which are derived from the foreign varieties they currently grow.

These apples are primarily supplied to restaurants and patisseries, including three-star restaurants and renowned hotels. The company’s reputation grew through word of mouth from chefs who actually used the apples on their menus, following a steady sales effort that began by visiting each establishment one by one. In addition, apples that do not meet standard specifications are sold wholesale as primary processed products—such as peeled, sliced, or grated apples—for commercial use. This helps San Farm reduce food waste and also helps its restaurant customers lower their labor costs. In addition, the company now sells directly to consumers through farm-to-consumer e-commerce sites such as Tabechoku.


“When we ship to organizations like JA, the distribution system makes it difficult for our rare varieties to be properly appreciated. But with direct sales, we can leverage our strength in handling a wide variety of apples to meet specific needs,” says Mr. Yoshida. The company enjoys strong trust from chefs and pastry chefs, and currently, 90 percent of Sun Farm’s sales come from direct transactions.

Furthermore, participating in the national “Hometown Revitalization Global Project” gave him a firsthand sense of the demand for Japanese apples overseas. Since then, by partnering with a fruit-specialized distribution company, he has experienced in-person sales at shopping centers in Thailand and appearances on TV shopping programs, allowing him to truly grasp the potential of Japanese apples in the global market.

“Red-fleshed varieties, such as ‘Beni no Yume,’ are particularly popular. While red-fleshed varieties from overseas tend to be astringent when eaten raw, people are delighted to find that Japanese ones are much easier to eat.”

Apple Picking in the City Center? A Collaboration with “Hobonichi”

Sun Farm’s efforts in growing a wide variety of crops also led to a collaboration with “Hobonichi,” a company headed by copywriter Shigesato Itoi.

The “Maybe It’s an Apple-Picking Exhibition,” held annually by “Hobonichi” since 2021, takes place at Shibuya PARCO and offers a simulated apple-picking experience. Sun Farm provides a variety of apple varieties for this event every year.


At the venue, a wide range of varieties—from sweet to tart, and varying in size and color—are on display. Visitors can choose and purchase their favorite apples from the selection and eat them right there.

“We have many varieties on display that you rarely see in supermarkets. Children often eat tart apples without batting an eye. Even when parents try to stop them by saying, ‘That’s sour,’ the kids will reply, ‘I like this one.’ I’d be happy if people could discover the many charms of apples without being bound by the preconception or standard that ‘sweet equals delicious,’” says Ms. Yoshida with a smile.

Addressing Climate Change and New Challenges

Sun Farm has earned the trust of chefs and pastry chefs across the country, including those at renowned restaurants and patisseries. While the farm’s operations appear to be going smoothly, there are challenges. Among them, adapting to climate change is a pressing concern.

“In recent years, both apples and cherries have been plagued by heat-related issues—such as softening fruit and poor color development—caused by extreme heat. Rising temperatures in early spring are also a problem. Flower bud development is progressing faster than usual, causing the timing of blooming to coincide with late-spring frosts. Cherry flower buds, in particular, are vulnerable to frost; if the flowers die from frost, the trees won’t bear fruit. To address this, we’ve installed anti-frost fans and, on days when a cold snap is expected, we use the ‘burning method’—lighting fires to warm the entire orchard.”

Even if these efforts prevent spring frost damage, a prolonged heatwave in the summer is highly likely to cause heat stress. If global warming continues at this rate, cherry and apple yields will likely decline in the future. Anticipating this, Mr. Yoshida has reportedly begun cultivating heat-tolerant fruits such as peaches and nectarines.

I want to prove that “farming is profitable” and pass this on to the next generation.

“Farming is a process of trial and error,” says Mr. Yoshida. “And you only get one chance to try each year.” It’s been about 30 years since he left his corporate job to become a farmer. I asked him what kind of future he envisions at the end of this journey of challenges he’s built up one by one.

“I don’t mind if my own children don’t take over the farm. However, I want to establish a solid business model so that employees who are interested—or the next generation—can successfully carry on the legacy. If I can prove that farming is a genuinely profitable business, young people will naturally be drawn to it.”

Mr. Yoshida says that what he “wants to do most right now” is to open a café on the farm.

“I want guests who come for cherry or blueberry picking to be able to stay at the farm after their experience—to relax at the café or take a stroll and enjoy a leisurely time,” he says.

Now in his mid-50s, Mr. Yoshida says, “I want to be ready to pass the baton to the next generation in about 10 years.” So that apples can continue to be grown on this land, no matter how the climate changes or who takes over. Mr. Yoshida’s journey continues.

The post “Doing Things Differently.” “Sun Farm,” a one-of-a-kind orchard that grows 140 varieties of apples / Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The “Taragi Rice Fields Power Research Group,” a rice production team formed in 2017 by 11 rice farmers in Taragi Town, Kuma District, Kumamoto Prefecture, aims to revitalize agriculture throughout Taragi Town by fostering cooperation among farmers—led by its representative, Shinichiro Ogata—to cultivate high-quality rice under a unified brand.

I want to grow rice I can be proud of to repay the debt of gratitude I owe to those who came before me.

A deeply forested area in Kuma District, Kumamoto Prefecture, known as “Oku-Kuma.” Taragi Town, located there, was ruled by the Sagara clan of samurai from the early Kamakura period through the Meiji period. During their long reign spanning approximately 700 years, the Sagara clan constructed irrigation canals such as the “Hyakutaro-mizo” and the “Kono-mizo.” It is said that this improved agricultural productivity within their domain, allowing it to develop into one of Kyushu’s leading rice-producing regions.

In particular, the “Hyakutaro Ditch”—a massive, challenging project said to have taken 100 years to complete—stretches approximately 18 km in total length. While farmers were digging it by hand—with the entire community mobilized—the site was struck by floods numerous times; the ditch was ultimately named after Hyakutaro, who was sacrificed as a human offering. “The bountiful natural environment we enjoy today is thanks to our ancestors, who endured blood, sweat, and tears,” says Shinichiro Ogata. “To repay that debt, we must continue growing rice on this land.” Driven by the desire to “produce delicious rice that we can be proud of nationwide,” he took the initiative to form the rice production team “Taragi Rice Fields Power Research Group” in 2017. As the representative of the group—comprising 11 rice farmers in Taragi Town, Kuma District, Kumamoto Prefecture—he coordinates the farmers’ efforts while also cultivating rice himself.

To ensure the future of agriculture, the entire region must develop together.

Mr. Ogata was born into a farming family in Taragi Town that has been in the business for generations. He left his hometown for a time to work in sales in the beauty and hair industry. However, as the internet and mail-order sales became more widespread, he felt he had reached the limits of his sales career and returned home in 2009. By participating in the establishment of the local agricultural corporation “Taragi Nobiru Agricultural Cooperative,” he came face-to-face with challenges such as the aging farming population and a shortage of successors.

Consequently, while working as a staff member for the corporation, he sought to identify “what he could do.” Believing that “there are limits to developing individual farms alone; only by developing the entire region can we ensure agriculture’s future,” he became a founding member of the “Taragi Rice Fields Power Research Group.”

Subsequently, starting around 2011, the “Taragi Rice Paddy Power Research Group” invited Goichi Endo—a rice farmer from Takahata Town, Yamagata Prefecture, who had won the Gold Prize and Diamond Award for four consecutive years at the Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition—to serve as an advisor. Under his guidance, the group meticulously examined cultivation methods from seedling raising to harvest. By refraining from using chemical fertilizers and instead employing organic fertilizers based on fish meal, while implementing cultivation management based on scientific evidence, the group established a standardized cultivation method and resolved to strictly adhere to Mr. Endo’s teachings as a whole.

“Kometaragi,” a brand of rice that has won numerous competitions

The main variety cultivated by the “Taragi Rice Paddy Power Research Association” is “Nikomaru.” The association ships rice under its “Kometaragi” brand only after it has met its own strict standards—including a protein content of less than 7% and a minimum grain size of 1.9 mm as determined by sifting—as clearly defined in its shipping specifications. The lower the protein content, the fluffier and softer the rice becomes when cooked, and the more pronounced its sweetness. When the grain size is uniform, heat is distributed evenly during cooking. “Kometaragi” rice, which meets these strict standards, features large, satisfying grains with a sticky, moist texture, as well as a rich umami flavor and pronounced sweetness.

The group also pays close attention to the drying process. First, the rice is dried overnight through air circulation without applying heat to ensure uniform moisture distribution within the grains. Then, it is dried using heat to prevent variations in overall moisture content. In addition, the group has collaborated with designers on brand development, focusing on the logo and packaging design. They have worked diligently to enhance the brand’s appeal.

These efforts are evident in the “Kyushu Rice Taste Competition” (held in Miyawaka City, Fukuoka Prefecture), where municipalities across Kyushu compete based on the taste of their rice. At the second competition in 2018, Taragi Town stood at the top among 163 Kyushu municipalities, and has since gone on to win consecutive titles in the municipal division. The town has won the Grand Prix a total of five times, including four consecutive victories. Members of the research group have also won the Highest Gold Award in the individual overall category, further attesting to the high quality of “Nikomaru.” As the rice has also gained popularity as a return gift for the “Hometown Tax” program, Mr. Ogata feels encouraged, noting, “I think awareness of Taragi Town’s rice is gradually increasing.”

So that it can serve as a model for rice farming in Japan

The “Taragi Rice Fields Power Research Association” had previously established rules to ensure that producers did not deviate from standardized cultivation methods based on their own judgment, in order to maintain uniform standards. However, in recent years, the association has begun to broaden the scope of its activities by relaxing these rules—for example, by permitting the cultivation of new varieties such as “Pikamaru” and “Kuma-san no Kagayaki” in addition to “Nikomaru.” The group is also actively pursuing new initiatives, such as introducing sensors for water management and applying AI-driven moisture control to the rice drying process. This is because the group’s goal is “to pass on rice production in Taragi Town to the next generation,” and they believe that to achieve this, they must continue to evolve with the times.

Mr. Ogata believes, “If we continue to deliver Taragi Town’s rice to many people through the association, ‘Taragi Town Rice’ will surely become a household name in 15 years.” He adds that if successful, the association’s activities could serve as a model for rice cultivation in Japan, and the recognition of “Taragi Town Rice” would further help promote “Taragi Town agricultural products” as a whole.

“The Hyakutaro Canal was carved out by our forebears for the sake of agriculture in this land. It is said that the weirs were washed away time and again by repeated floods, and it took about 100 years to complete. In other words, it is an irrigation canal that can be called a regional treasure, built not over the course of a single generation, but across many generations. We must never forget that our lives depend on it,” said Mr. Ogata. He continues to look to the town’s past and future in order to draw out the full potential of Taragi Town and pass it on to the next generation.

The post “Kometaragi” is a group of 11 rice farmers from Taragi Town. Shinichiro Ogata of the “Taragi Rice Paddy Power Research Group” / Taragi Town, Kuma District, Kumamoto Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In 2021, lotus root grown in Chonan Town, Chiba Prefecture, attracted attention after recording a sugar content of 9 degrees—one of the highest levels in the country. The producer is Akihiro Kanesaka. Although he had experienced social withdrawal, he took up farming following the death of his father, who was a prominent figure in the industry. He established a natural farming method that utilizes the activity of soil microorganisms without the use of fertilizers or pesticides, and markets his lotus root under the brand name “Kanesaka Renkon.”

From a Reclusive Online Gamer to a Lotus Root Farmer

Located in the inland region of the Boso Peninsula, Chonan Town is a mid-mountainous area where valley paddies stretch along mountain valleys; it is a major lotus root production center in Chiba Prefecture, where agricultural cooperatives are also active. In Chonan Town, the Kanasaka family—spanning two generations—has been cultivating lotus roots and continues to bring a breath of fresh air to the lotus root industry.

Lotus root is the edible, swollen portion of the lotus rhizome, which grows beneath the surface of muddy ponds known as “hasuda.” During harvest, farmers wade into these muddy ponds and use a hose to apply water pressure, flushing away the mud and causing the lotus roots to float to the surface. However, since the conditions beneath the water’s surface are obscured by the mud, the work must be done by feel. In such an environment, the roots must be dug up without damaging them. “If you apply too much water pressure, it leaves bruises on the lotus roots,” says Mr. Kanesaka, explaining the difficulty of the task.

My father was a dedicated farmer whose name lives on in the name of a crop variety. 

Takasumi Kanasaka, Mr. Kanasaka’s father, is a well-known figure in the lotus root industry as a dedicated farmer who developed a new variety of lotus root. The first variety, “Kanasumi No. 1”—named after his own name—was registered in 1985. After further improvements with No. 2 and No. 3, the Kanasumi series now accounts for about 70 percent of the lotus root produced in the Kanto region.

While Takasumi developed these varieties with a focus on disease resistance, yield, and ease of harvesting, he says that “flavor” was his top priority. “My father was always looking for sweetness and a crisp texture. Ever since I was a child, my father’s simmered lotus root often appeared at the dinner table—but it never contained chicken. That was so he could check the flavor and texture of the lotus root itself.” Although Mr. Kanesaka grew up under such a father, he would actually go on to experience a period of social withdrawal.

My Days as a Shut-In Obsessed with Online Games 

Mr. Kanesaka had never originally planned to take over the family business. He studied programming at a vocational school and got a job at an IT company. However, the workplace had such harsh working conditions that several of his colleagues from the same hiring class quit. To take his mind off things, he became obsessed with online gaming and was eventually forced to resign. Looking back on that time, Mr. Kanesaka says, “It was a period of online gaming when I had given up on life. I had even become afraid to check my email or answer the phone.”

The turning point in his nearly three-year period of social withdrawal came with his father’s sudden death. “Since neither my older brother nor my older sister had taken over my father’s business, I started thinking about him a lot after he passed away. I guess I must have sensed the presence of a father figure from a young age.” At his father’s funeral, Mr. Kanesaka told his older brother, “Maybe I’ll be the one to take over the lotus root farm.”

Overcoming the Pressure of Being the Son of a Famous Father 

However, he said he struggled for several months over whether to actually take up farming. Having spent so much time as a shut-in, he lacked confidence that he could stick with it. “I was afraid people would say, ‘Kanesaka’s son started farming, but he quit.’” Precisely because his father’s presence loomed so large, the pressure to take over the lotus root farm weighed heavily on him.

Even after finally deciding to become a farmer, he found himself in a cycle of working for one month, taking three months off, then working for another month, and taking half a year off. “There were times I cried, wondering why I couldn’t push myself harder.” Amid these days of inner conflict, he came to realize: “If my sole purpose was to preserve the variety my father created, I’d never be able to surpass him, and farming would just be a struggle. I can only surpass my father by throwing myself into what I truly want to do and expressing my own identity.” Something she could become completely absorbed in and devote herself to. For Ms. Kanesaka, that meant taking on the challenge of naturally cultivating lotus root.

Nationwide top-class lotus root grown using natural farming methods

Because Nagaminami Town is characterized by a landscape dotted with valley paddies nestled among the mountains, it cannot compete with Ibaraki Prefecture—Japan’s largest lotus root production area, where the crop is cultivated on vast flatlands—in terms of work efficiency or yield. In the market, lotus roots from Ibaraki Prefecture—which enjoy high brand recognition—command higher prices than those from Chiba Prefecture. Given this reality, Mr. Kanesaka had been searching for a way for local agriculture to survive. The conclusion he reached was to produce high-quality lotus roots using natural farming methods and add value to them.

Organic Farming with a Focus on Microorganisms 

While interviewing elderly lotus root farmers about traditional farming methods, Mr. Kanesaka made an important discovery: about 60 years ago, farmers did not use pesticides or chemical fertilizers, but instead used fallen leaves from the mountains as compost. This discovery sparked Mr. Kanesaka’s interest in natural farming. As a first step, he chipped bamboo—which grew abundantly in the local area—to use in place of fallen leaves, adding it to the lotus fields to restore the soil’s fundamental fertility.

As he continued farming, he learned that some of Japan’s top lotus root producers were focusing on microorganisms. Mr. Kanesaka came to believe that the activity of microorganisms in the growing environment influenced factors such as flavor and resistance to pests and diseases. To maintain the balance of soil microorganisms and stimulate their activity, he gradually transitioned to natural farming—free of pesticides and chemical fertilizers. The lotus roots grew steadily, and he was able to harvest large, plump specimens. While acknowledging that “there is still much we do not understand about the role of microorganisms,” Mr. Kanesaka positions his farming method as “microorganism-centered cultivation”—distinct from “cultivation based on the use of fertilizers and pesticides.”

Lotus root with a sugar content of 9 degrees, among the best in the country 

The cultivation methods Mr. Kanesaka developed have been proven to produce excellent flavor, as confirmed by analytical results. In 2021, Mr. Kanesaka’s lotus root recorded a sugar content of 9 degrees—the highest level in Japan. Conversely, levels of nitrate ions—which are considered the source of bitterness and astringency—were kept low. This remarkable achievement, especially given that the sugar content of typical lotus root is generally around 6 to 7 degrees, attracted significant attention; his lotus root is now used as an ingredient even at hotels that have earned five Michelin stars.

He uses an online store to sell to the general public. Drawing on skills he acquired during his time as a company employee, he designs the labels himself. The product name, “Kanesaka Renkon,” was given to him by his online gaming friends during his time as a shut-in. He adopted it as his favorite brand name, representing lotus root infused with the “soul” he poured into it after overcoming past struggles and trial and error.

I want to continue taking on new challenges and help develop the local industry. 

Although Mr. Kanesaka has achieved success with his natural farming techniques for lotus root, challenges remain—such as crayfish, which had previously been controlled with pesticides, now causing damage to the lotus root—leading him to note, “There are still things I need to research.” Even so, unlike during his reclusive days, ideas for new projects he’d like to tackle are now constantly coming to mind. “Going forward, I’d like to move forward with initiatives such as hosting agricultural experiences for people who have been socially withdrawn and developing agritourism programs. In the long term, after developing processed lotus root products, I’d like to grow this into a regional trading company that safeguards local industries and employment.” We can’t wait to see what he accomplishes next.

The post Cultivating Lotus Root with a Sugar Content Rivaling That of Fruit Tomatoes: “Kanesaka Renkon” by Tetsuhiro Kanasaka / Chonan Town, Chiba Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kochi Prefecture’s official fish is the skipjack tuna, and the prefecture ranks first nationwide in consumption. Skipjack tuna is deeply loved by the people of Kochi.

Even in this “skipjack tuna prefecture,” Myojin Suisan in Kuroshio Town is a well-known name. Myojin Suisan’s straw-grilled tataki isn’t just delicious. The company protects marine resources from overfishing by using single-hook fishing methods and eagerly adopts techniques to ensure the utmost freshness. To secure high-quality straw for making tataki, they established an agricultural corporation, revitalized fallow fields within the town, and return the straw ash to the rice paddies as fertilizer—thus creating a circular model that connects the sea and the mountains.

It is the prefecture’s official fish, and consumption of it ranks first in Japan. The prefecture’s love for bonito

Located about 90 kilometers west of Kochi City, Kuroshio Town in the southwestern part of Kochi Prefecture has long been known for its thriving single-line fishing industry, which tracks skipjack tuna riding the Kuroshio Current off the coast of Tosa, solidifying its reputation as the “Town of Skipjack Tuna.”

In recent years, the town has also attracted large numbers of visitors from both within and outside the prefecture through experiential tourism—such as “whale watching,” which makes use of the area’s natural resources—and sports tourism centered around the Tosa Southwest Large-Scale Park.

Located right next to Saga Fishing Port, where fishing boats set sail, is the headquarters of “Myojin Suisan,” famous for its “straw-grilled bonito tataki.”

Shoichi Myojin, the company’s representative director—who, even now as the head of his own business—still takes out his boat to fish for bonito as a hobby—explains the origins of “tataki.”

“Originally, tataki was a method devised by fishermen in fishing villages to safely eat bonito that had lost some of its freshness in an era before refrigeration or freezing. They would place vinegar and soy sauce in the palm of their hand, slice the lightly seared bonito into sashimi, and then pound it to let the flavors soak in. They would then top it with garnishes such as green onions, onions, and garlic.”

We will continue to preserve line-and-hook fishing

Riding the Kuroshio Current, the “first bonito” migrate northward off the coast of Tosa Bay from around February to March. Afterward, they head south while feeding heavily on krill off the coast of Chiba and in the Tohoku region; by the time they return to the waters off Tosa in the fall, they are rich in fat and are called “returning bonito.”

Myojin Suisan, founded in 1959, has been practicing Tosa’s traditional “single-rod fishing” method—catching bonito with a single fishing rod—off the coast of Tosa Bay.

“Nationally, there may be an image that ‘skipjack tuna equals Kochi,’ but in reality, our catch volume isn’t particularly high. In other prefectures, such as Shizuoka and Kagoshima, the primary method is purse seine fishing, which allows for massive catches—sometimes exceeding 100 metric tons at a time—essentially sweeping up the entire school of skipjack tuna in a single net. Our daily limit is 40 to 50 metric tons. Even today, Kochi and Miyazaki still use the traditional single-line fishing method. If a school isn’t feeding, we stop there and look for another spot. It’s a sustainable fishing method that avoids overfishing and is gentle on the environment,” Mr. Myojin says with great pride.

By using a lure hook without a barb, the skipjack tuna—which is jerked high into the air—slips off the hook at the apex of its trajectory, allowing anglers to catch them one after another. It takes about three years of practice to master the rhythm of this technique. The larger the skipjack tuna, the more difficult it is to handle, and this is where differences in skill become apparent.

Because line fishing minimizes damage to the fish and ensures high quality, the catch is traded at a unit price 3 to 4 times higher per kilogram than that of net fishing. Consequently, the fishery has remained viable even with relatively small landings.

Currently, the company owns four inshore vessels and, through a group company, three large freezer vessels, one of which is the “Katsuei Maru,” capable of operating in the open ocean. This vessel is known as a “B-1 ship.” The caught skipjack tuna are immediately placed, one by one, into a fish hold containing a “salt brine solution”—a highly concentrated saltwater solution maintained at around minus 20 degrees Celsius—where they are rapidly frozen while still alive, preventing any loss of freshness.

Furthermore, veteran fishermen reel in fish at a rate of one every two seconds. To prevent overfishing from filling the fish hold and slowing down the freezing process, the fishing master monitors the catch volume and calls a halt when necessary.

“When they’re really biting, we can go nonstop for an hour and a half to two hours. In terms of weight, that’s 55 or 60 metric tons—or 60,000 kilograms—and they just keep coming, one after another,” says Mr. Myojin, who has served as fishing captain for many years, speaking with passion.

The skipjack tuna from Myojin Fisheries, which has mastered the art of single-hook fishing, is highly regarded nationwide as “B-1 (Brine-Frozen First-Class Product).”

On the other hand, with purse seine fishing, if, for example, 100 metric tons are caught, that entire 100-metric-ton haul is loaded into the ship’s fish hold all at once and frozen. This results in “slow freezing,” where the core temperature of the fish drops gradually, which tends to degrade the quality of the flesh.

At Myojin Fisheries, all top-grade bonito caught by their B-1 vessels are processed into straw-grilled tataki; even so, this accounts for only about half of the annual volume of bonito used for their in-house tataki production.

Kenta Tomioka, the department manager in charge of public relations, explains, “For example, if one of our boats catches a very high-quality, fatty bonito, we can assume that the catch from other companies’ boats in that same fishing ground is of the same quality. By purchasing from them, we can select and gather only the best raw materials.”

Mr. Myojin adds, “Due to soaring fuel costs and the issue of finding successors, the number of fishing vessels is decreasing year by year. To the untrained eye, one might think that fewer rivals would be an advantage, but from a fisherman’s perspective, fewer boats mean it becomes even harder to catch fish. Precisely because we’re scattered across the vast Pacific Ocean fishing, we rely on data shared among fellow fishermen to locate fishing grounds.”

Skipjack tuna vessels are required to share information three times a day regarding their current location and catch volume, and all of this information is publicly available. When Mr. Tomioka showed me his smartphone, I was able to immediately pinpoint the “Katsuei Maru’s” location using AIS (Automatic Identification System). While vessel safety is certainly a factor, the fishing world—where competitors coexist and thrive together—is fascinating.

The intensity of straw-grilling is directly proportional to its deliciousness.

In 1986, Myojin Suisan began processing and selling seafood, as well as manufacturing and selling straw-grilled bonito tataki. The company was founded with the desire to introduce people across Japan to the delicious taste of authentic Kochi-style tataki.

Since the straw burns rapidly and turns to ash almost instantly, only the surface is seared, leaving the inside raw. This creates a unique aroma and texture that cannot be replicated by gas grilling. The combination of frozen bonito with exceptional freshness and the aroma of the straw-grilling process is what makes Myojin Suisan’s tataki so appealing.

What instantly made this appeal famous was the “Myojin Maru” store located at Hirome Market, a popular tourist spot in Kochi City. There, they demonstrate the straw-grilling process and serve the freshly prepared dish on the spot. The aromatic, delicious flavor of their bonito tataki has earned them a stellar reputation, and they now operate restaurants both within and outside the prefecture. They also manage “Roadside Station Nabura Tosa-Saga” in Kuroshio Town, where customers can enjoy the same straw-grilled bonito tataki.

Currently, Myojin Suisan operates six restaurants in Kochi Prefecture, five in Tokyo, two each in Osaka and Okayama, and two in Shikoku. At these restaurants, they use straw grown at “Myojin Farm”—a farm the company established to secure high-quality straw—to grill the tataki, and they also use rice harvested from the farm.

The staff’s hard work is evident in the massive straw warehouse.

Myojin Suisan has focused its efforts on securing both skipjack tuna and straw.

Initially, staff members collected straw from farmers in neighboring municipalities, as well as throughout the prefecture and across Shikoku. However, as many farmers stopped growing rice due to an aging population, the straw shortage became a serious issue. Consequently, Mr. Myojin decided, “If that’s the case, let’s grow our own rice,” and launched “Myojin Farm” in 2014. The company leases abandoned farmland and has been expanding its operations year by year. In collaboration with local farmers, they are also preserving traditional techniques such as drying rice on racks.

They have also set up a dedicated warehouse to further dehumidify the dried straw and store it in a condition that ensures it burns well. I was shown around the massive straw warehouse, but I learned there are actually about six such warehouses where the straw is stored. Even so, this is still not enough to meet their annual demand of 40,000 bundles, so the staff are constantly on the move throughout Kochi Prefecture to secure more straw.

Experience the intensity of minus 50 degrees

I was given a tour of the processing facility. The ultra-low-temperature warehouse where the skipjack tuna is stored to maintain its freshness is kept at minus 50 degrees. Because it is stored at such low temperatures, the tuna has a long shelf life, allowing the facility to supply skipjack tuna year-round without ever running out.

While still frozen, the product is cut into portions—such as single or double servings—to meet customer needs. Then, using a proprietary straw-grilling machine, the surface is grilled for about 5 to 6 minutes while carefully monitoring the day’s temperature, humidity, and the fat content of the bonito to adjust the amount of straw used. The product is then packaged for gifts or sets, sorted on the production line, and subjected to “liquid flash freezing” at minus 35 degrees before being stored in cold storage.

Reportedly, 80 to 90 percent of production consists of tataki, with the remainder being rice bowls made with tuna.

Paving the Way for the Future with the Traditional “Single-Line Fishing” Method

Mr. Myojin says, “Our strength lies in the strong bonds we share—our executives, fishing captains, and food service managers are all family members, including siblings and relatives.” He adds, “As long as we have our boats, we can keep going, and our own vessels are indispensable for securing a stable supply of skipjack tuna.”

Currently, there are plans to build a new skipjack tuna vessel. From a company that knows the sea inside and out, one can sense a determination to constantly evolve. Mr. Myojin describes the current challenge as follows:

“You see, having served as a fishing captain from the age of 28 until I was 71, I can’t help but notice that every time I look out at the sea, the fish are dwindling. Compared to the size of the schools I saw in my 30s and 40s, the fishing grounds these days are worlds apart. I don’t think the fish themselves will ever completely disappear, but it’s certain that their numbers are declining. If we don’t secure our own supply of bonito, no matter how much people say ‘Myojin’s tataki is delicious,’ there’s nothing we can do once the raw materials run out. “We need to expand our deep-sea fishing operations.”

Myojin Suisan’s commitment to preserving marine resources through single-line fishing is unwavering. While facing the changing sea, they are striving to pass the baton to the next generation. I can’t help but hope that this time-honored fishing method will not only continue uninterrupted but actually expand, so that we can continue to enjoy delicious bonito.

The post Founded in 1959, “Myojin Suisan Co., Ltd.” has steadfastly preserved the tradition of pole-and-line bonito fishing and continues to support Kochi’s food culture / Kuroshio Town, Hata District, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kochi Prefecture is known as the “Yuzu Kingdom,” accounting for about half of the nation’s total production. With an annual output of approximately 10,000 metric tons, it boasts an overwhelming market share and a presence that stands head and shoulders above the rest. Among the villages in the prefecture, Umaji Village ranks only fifth in terms of production volume within Kochi Prefecture, but it has gained nationwide fame thanks to popular products such as the yuzu drink “Gokkun Umaji Village” and the ponzu soy sauce “Yuzu no Mura.”

Once a small mountain village where forestry was the primary livelihood, it has transformed over the past 60-odd years into the “Yuzu Village” that attracts so many visitors.

A Turning Point for a Village Where 96% Is Forested 

Maji Village is about an hour and a half’s drive east from Kochi City. You drive deeper and deeper along winding mountain roads before finally arriving. It is one of Japan’s rainiest regions. Surrounded on all sides by mountains over 1,000 meters high, the village is 96 percent forested. Houses and fields are clustered together on the remaining 4 percent of flat land in the narrow valleys.

“It really is deep in the mountains,” laughs Momota Nagano, chairman of the Maru Village Agricultural Cooperative, which supports the village’s economy.

The village has a history dating back to the Warring States period of producing the prized “Yanase cedar,” which was even presented to Toyotomi Hideyoshi. At its peak, it is said that 3,500 people lived here. However, from the 1940s onward, the forestry industry declined as it was unable to withstand the tides of change—including dam construction for postwar reconstruction, the decommissioning of the forest railway, and the influx of imported lumber. And so, the new path they chose was “yuzu.”

A Small Yuzu’s Journey, Which Began 60 Years Ago  

According to Mr. Nagano, it is said that yuzu seeds were originally brought to Shikoku—including Kochi Prefecture—by “fugitives of the Heike clan,” and that they were introduced to Maru Village approximately 800 years ago. While yuzu is relatively easy to cultivate almost anywhere, from coastal areas to mid-mountain regions, its quality reportedly varies remarkably depending on the growing region.

In Maru Village, where daylight hours are short and temperature fluctuations are extreme, yuzu grow to be small. However, it is precisely this small size that leads to a more intense aroma. When squeezed with the peel still on, a large amount of essential oil is released, resulting in a strong fragrance. This was the “distinctive character” bestowed by the deep mountainous terrain.

The village began full-scale cultivation in Showa 38. Initially, it was said to be a series of hardships.

Since they were latecomers to yuzu cultivation within the prefecture, they sought sales channels outside the prefecture. However, at that time in Japan, yuzu was not yet a widely known citrus fruit, and days went by without it being appreciated. “How should we market this?” The village agonized over the question, thought it through thoroughly, and eventually created the yuzu beverage “Gokkun Umaji Village” and the ponzu soy sauce “Yuzu no Mura,” both of which would later gain nationwide recognition.

Promoting the Countryside: The Birth of “Gokkun Umajimura”

Although they succeeded in developing products made with yuzu, they struggled to expand their sales channels afterward. In the Showa 60s, the village made a major decision. Rather than chasing after the city, they shifted course toward “turning the rural charm of Umaji Village into a selling point.”

“After talking with a designer, we decided to ‘sell the countryside.’” It was a major decision.

The packaging captured the rustic atmosphere of Maru Village exactly as it was. They named the product “Gokkun Maru Village.” Although supermarket buyers harshly criticized it, saying, “We can’t tell what kind of juice this is,” the village stuck to its decision.

The ingredients are simply yuzu, honey, and water. The shelf life is a mere four months. The philosophy of “being a place of origin rather than a manufacturer” is embedded in both the taste and the approach. Rather than adopting a manufacturer’s mindset that prioritizes ease of distribution and long shelf life, they focused on the intrinsic quality of the yuzu. That was their pride as a producing region.

Gradually, the product began to sell. Eventually, despite limited funds, they produced a TV commercial that showcased the village’s natural beauty. It became a hot topic within the prefecture, and “Gokkun Umaji Village” grew to become one of Kochi’s signature beverages. The commercial marked a turning point for the small village as it turned its way of life into a commercial product.

We will continue to value warm, heartfelt communication with our fans

Over the course of about 30 years since its launch, “Gokkun Marumura” has grown into a nationally recognized product, and the village’s total annual sales of processed yuzu products have reached 3 billion yen. Sales have remained steady at that level for the past 20 years. “The target range—which allows us to maintain stable production using yuzu grown within the village and provide benefits to both the yuzu farmers and the village—is between 3 billion and 3.5 billion yen. “We have no plans to source raw materials from other regions to increase production,” says Mr. Nagano. Since 2006, the agricultural cooperative has offered “Yuzu no Mori Processing Plant Tours” to give visitors a behind-the-scenes look at the production line. Additionally, the call center responsible for customer service places great importance on “person-to-person interaction” over the phone.

“I feel that our fans in Umaji Village are looking for our ‘voices,’ not just automated responses,” said Mr. Nagano. “Sometimes they ask, ‘How’s the scenery in Umaji Village these days?’ I think being able to have that kind of back-and-forth conversation is something unique to this village’s call center.”

The village continues to steadfastly deliver its “rural charm” to this day.

A “Major Industry” Created by a Small Village

Producing processed yuzu products is not merely about creating local specialties. It was an “industrialization” effort that created jobs in the village and supported people’s livelihoods. Mr. Nagano explains that the village office, the agricultural cooperative, and the producers have worked together to develop this into a major industry to replace forestry.

“Simply selling raw materials doesn’t create jobs. It’s through processing that jobs are created within the village.”

Currently, the Umaji Village Agricultural Cooperative employs about 90 people. It is remarkable that a village with a population in the 700s has generated this many jobs. Ponzu, beverages, jams, marmalades, yuzu kosho—over 100 different products are produced at the village’s factory.

The latest hit is canned chu-hai. True to Maji Village’s commitment to recreating the flavor of yuzu without additives, Mr. Nagano says with delight, “We’ve finally perfected a yuzu chu-hai that we’re truly satisfied with.” Sales have already reached 12,000 cases.

Furthermore, cosmetics made with “seed oil” extracted from yuzu seeds are also popular. “By putting these seeds—which previously had no use—to good use, we can give back to the farmers. We want to continue focusing on these efforts to minimize waste,” says Mr. Nagano. Yuzu has become a driving force supporting the village’s future.

The Pride of Organic Farming 

All yuzu grown in Maru Village have been organically cultivated since 2001. No chemical pesticides, chemical fertilizers, or herbicides are used.

“Precisely because we use the fruit with the peel intact, we want people to be able to eat it with peace of mind. That’s why we chose organic farming.”

However, organic farming tends to result in “black spots” on the fruit’s surface, which can sometimes put the produce at a disadvantage in the market. Even so, the village has remained committed to growing yuzu in a way that stays true to nature.

“It’s easier to convey the value of organic farming through yuzu tea and products made from the peel. Going forward, we want consumers to choose ‘peace of mind’ over appearance,” says Mr. Nagano.

The village also produces compost by mixing cedar bark with yuzu pulp and allowing it to ferment. This initiative, which recycles the bounty of the mountains, is characteristic of Maru Village.

The Future Illuminated by Yuzu: Where the Village Is Headed 

Thanks to the yuzu industry, Umaji Village has become a “village where people can live comfortably.” Currently, there are reportedly 190 yuzu farming households, including those who farm part-time. Since yuzu is used as a raw material for processing, it has the advantage of being easy for even people in their 70s or 80s to continue farming. For seniors, it’s said that life in the mountains is perfectly sustainable if they have supplementary income of 1 million to 2 million yen from yuzu, in addition to their pension. Since the village offers employment opportunities at the agricultural cooperative and the town hall, there are actually a surprisingly large number of young people here.

“Actually, I moved here from another region too,” Mr. Nagano says with a smile. “Maru Village is a truly rural area with a population in the 700s. However, it has a solid business foundation. I don’t think there are many other municipalities of this size that offer such opportunities.” You can choose either rural life or business in this mountainous area, or you can enjoy both. Furthermore, the fact that it’s possible to work in agriculture as a side job is quite unique. In addition, even though the forestry industry has declined, it still exists, and we’re seeing cases where young people are starting to work in the mountains. I want to promote both the livability and the sense of fulfillment here.”

I want to increase the number of people who feel, “I’m glad I live in Maro Village.”

However, the population decline continues. There are challenges that cannot be solved by yuzu alone. Looking to the future, Mr. Nagano said, “Going forward, I want the agricultural cooperative to be the force that solves the village’s challenges. I believe it is our role to work on education and welfare as well, and to preserve the village’s prosperity. I want to increase the number of people who feel glad they live here.”

Plans are underway to renovate Umaji Onsen in collaboration with Snow Peak. The goal is to attract even more tourists than the current annual total of over 60,000. “While yuzu is only available in November, essential oils are available year-round. I think a hot spring featuring the scent of yuzu would be an interesting idea,” said Mr. Nagano, as his vision expands.

Mountain villages across Japan are struggling with depopulation. Umaji Village has forged a path to prosperity by diversifying its primary industries and promoting the unique character of its remote mountain setting. The challenges facing this village of 700 residents will continue for some time to come. We can’t take our eyes off its future.

The post A remote village made famous by the yuzu drink “Gokkun Marumura.” The challenges faced by the “Marumura Agricultural Cooperative” / Aki District, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Chitose-cho, Bungo-Ono City, Oita Prefecture. In this area rich in natural beauty, an agricultural processing company produces “Yuzu Pepper”—a seasoning with a spicy kick that enhances the flavor of dishes. Gozo Tomonaga of Oita Chitose-mura Agricultural Processing, who oversees production, is working tirelessly to revitalize local agriculture under the motto, “Let’s make this the star of the table.” Behind those words lies a deep passion for the region’s agriculture and food culture.

The taste of home, born in the mountains of Kyushu

Hot pot, yakitori, udon. Just a tiny bit of yuzu kosho added to a dish can completely transform its flavor profile. Once a condiment known primarily in Kyushu, yuzu kosho has gradually made its way onto dining tables across Japan.

The ingredients are surprisingly simple: yuzu peel, chili peppers, and salt—that’s all there is to it. Yet the flavor created by the interplay of these three ingredients is anything but simple.

Yuzu Pepper, which had its own unique flavor in every household

Originally, yuzu pepper was a preserved food made by farmers in the mountainous regions of Kyushu. Some theories suggest it originated in Oita Prefecture. When yuzu are in season, the peel is grated, mixed with chili peppers and salt, and packed into jars. The amount of yuzu, the heat of the chili peppers, and the amount of salt vary from household to household. That is precisely why the flavors, of course, differed as well. In some parts of Kyushu, there is a custom of calling chili peppers “kosho,” and it is said that the name “yuzukosho” originated from this.

A Company Born in the City of Citrus

Bungo-Ono City is known as a major producer of kabosu citrus, as well as sweet potatoes, taro, and mitsuba, and is a region with a thriving agricultural sector, boasting one of the nation’s highest production volumes of green bell peppers. It was in this region, in April 1998—when what is now Chitose Town was still known as “Chitose Village”—that “Oita Chitose Village Agricultural Products Processing” was founded.

At the time of its founding, the company’s operations were limited to the manufacture and sale of kabosu products. The company was established based on the idea of processing the harvests brought in by local producers in this region, which had long been a major kabosu-producing area. According to Mr. Tomonaga, kabosu is a “citrus fruit that excels at bringing out the flavors of other ingredients while playing a supporting role.” On the other hand, yuzu—the raw material for yuzu kosho, which has become the company’s flagship product—is described as “a citrus fruit with a vibrant aroma that stands out on its own.” These two citrus fruits, with their contrasting characteristics, have shaped the company’s journey.

Although the company started out with just a single product—100% kabosu juice—it eventually faced difficulties operating on a single product line and decided to seek support from other companies to restructure. At that time, Maruichi Seika Co., Ltd. served as their consultant. At the time, Mr. Tomonaga’s father was the company’s representative, and the firm acted as a wholesale distributor of produce at the public market in Oita. After getting back on its feet by utilizing existing staff and receiving executive support, the company began manufacturing and selling yuzu kosho in 2006. The catalyst was a proposal for business diversification from an executive dispatched by Maruichi Seika, who suggested, “Why don’t you try making yuzu kosho?” Approximately four years after the business succession, this advice became a major turning point for the company.

Authentic Yuzu Pepper Made with Just Three Ingredients

Yuzu Kosho, produced by Oita Chitose Village Agricultural Processing, is made using only three ingredients: green yuzu and green chili peppers—primarily from Oita Prefecture—and salt from Nagasaki Prefecture. Regarding the green yuzu, the company reports that due to a shortage of raw materials resulting from expanded production, it now sources them not only from Oita Prefecture but also from other prefectures across Kyushu. Prepared using traditional storage methods and free of artificial flavors and colorings, it is a seasoning that closely resembles a genuine, natural product.

Problems Faced at Yuzu Pepper Production Sites

The yuzu used isn’t the yellow, ripe variety; the reason for deliberately using green yuzu is that its crisp, sharp flavor complements the heat of the chili peppers. Additionally, while “Taka no Tsume” chili peppers were initially used, the team switched to a variety called “Hot Purs EX”—which yields about twice as much as the original—since a single “Taka no Tsume” plant yields only about 1.5 kg. The salt used is “Namishio” from Nagasaki Prefecture. While “Namishio” has a slightly sharp edge hidden beneath its saltiness, it reportedly pairs well with the flavor of the chili peppers. These three ingredients form the foundation of Mr. Tomonaga’s yuzu kosho.

However, sourcing these ingredients is becoming more difficult with each passing year. Although Oita Prefecture boasts one of the highest shares of yuzu production nationwide, the shortage of raw materials is becoming more severe as demand for yuzu kosho rises. While Mr. Tomonaga remains committed to using yuzu from Oita, he also sources raw materials from production areas in Kumamoto, Miyazaki, and Kagoshima. Furthermore, with an eye toward securing future supplies, he is working to expand production areas within the prefecture by providing yuzu saplings to farmers free of charge and encouraging them to grow the fruit. He also secures 60 to 80 metric tons of chili peppers annually while supporting producers through initiatives such as providing seedlings.

Chili peppers are a relatively flexible crop: seedling production begins in January, transplanting takes place in May, and harvesting occurs from July to November, allowing for relatively flexible adjustments to increase production. However, yuzu takes 8 to 10 years from planting to harvest. While “yuzu pepper” spread nationwide, riding the wave of the “spicy food boom” around 2005, the challenge of securing raw materials weighs more heavily as its popularity continues to rise.

Smoothness and richness born of time and effort

“Since chili peppers contain a lot of moisture, we remove it before using them,” says Mr. Tomonaga. “That’s what reduces off-flavors and adds depth of flavor.”

Yuzu fruits, which begin to grow larger around July, are harvested and prepared over a period of about one month starting in late September. Immediately after harvesting, the peel is removed, and the fruit is salt-cured and stored for one year. Chili peppers are also salt-preserved in the same way; they are carefully blended in a mixer until all seeds and other impurities are removed, then mixed with the other ingredients. It is precisely this time-consuming process that creates the smooth texture of Oita Chitose Village Agricultural Processing’s yuzu kosho.

They are also particular about the ingredient ratios. Since green yuzu has little peel, they use a larger amount of green chili peppers; and because they do not use additives, they set the salt concentration high to control microbial growth. While many other companies use a 1:1 ratio of green yuzu to chili peppers, Mr. Tomonaga intentionally increases the proportion of chili peppers. This is to create a sharp flavor where the spiciness comes through directly. “Although the product itself becomes slightly firmer due to the removal of moisture, I use this manufacturing process because I really want to achieve a concentrated flavor.”

Mr. Tomonaga’s dedication is evident in every single step of the manufacturing process.

Making Agriculture an Industry People Want to Join

In addition to raw material shortages and challenges in the manufacturing process, Mr. Tomonaga has another concern: labor. Chitose Town has a population of about 2,600. Many of the workers are elderly, and handling highly pungent chili peppers places a heavy physical strain on them. The building used as the factory is a former school site; before that, it was a precision watch factory, so it is not optimized for food production. Furthermore, the filling process is semi-manual and capping is done by hand, meaning the products cannot be completed without the help of part-time employees. Mr. Tomonaga strongly feels the need for automation in the future.

In recent years, climate change and soaring prices for imported fertilizers and materials have also weighed heavily on the business. Price adjustments alone are not enough to absorb the rising costs, and there are times when he has to make unreasonable demands on producers. He says he feels deeply distressed every time this happens.

Initiatives to Engage Young People

For agriculture to remain sustainable, it is essential to create an environment where farmers can continue their businesses. What matters is not whether prices are “high” or “low,” but rather establishing a system where the cycle from production to consumption functions properly. Unless farmers can stabilize their livelihoods through their year-round work and enjoy a certain degree of financial comfort, agriculture will not be passed on to the next generation.

“I believe agriculture needs to become an attractive industry—one that people actually want to be a part of. It must become an industry that attracts successors. While government support is certainly necessary for that, I’m thinking about what I can do myself.”

As he grapples with this question, one of the initiatives Mr. Tomonaga is pursuing is the development of new products and collaborations with other companies. He also wants to move away from the industry’s traditional, staid image and create labels and concepts that appeal to younger generations. As a first step in this direction, he has already begun selling pouch-style jellies made with kabosu juice that you can suck on.

The scenery of this land, captured in a small bottle

Yuzu kosho, produced in the small town of Chitose, has now spread throughout the country. Inside each small jar lies a glimpse of the local landscape: yuzu trees, chili pepper fields, the hands of farmers, and the factory where it is transformed into a condiment.

The post Making Yuzu Pepper the Star of the Seasoning. “Oita Chitose Village Agricultural Processing” / Chitose-cho, Bungo-Ono City, Oita Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kochi Prefecture is said to be the birthplace of “fruit tomatoes”—tomatoes with a high sugar content—and high-value-added, high-sugar-content tomatoes are produced and sold throughout the prefecture. In Konan City, which boasts the third-highest production volume in the prefecture, Majima Farm has successfully established a brand of “fruit tomatoes” called “Ushi no Megumi.” Mashima Farm is located near National Route 55, which runs through the eastern part of Kochi Prefecture, about 10 minutes from Kochi Ryoma Airport. It is a family-run dairy and vegetable farm where barns and plastic greenhouses stand between residential homes and fields. The farm produces milk, turns cow manure into “concentrated compost” for sale, and has been working to grow flavorful “fruit tomatoes” using that compost. Furthermore, using the same compost, the farm cultivates green papayas on abandoned farmland and grows pasture grass for animal feed, thereby practicing a sustainable, circular system of crop-livestock integration.

Building a cycle between dairy farming and agriculture, and dedicating our efforts to passing it on

Junichi Mashima, the farm’s owner, says, “Our family has been in the dairy farming business for about 60 years, ever since my father’s generation.” Twenty-six years ago, when his mother was hospitalized, Mr. Mashima moved back to the area from out of state with his wife and son to take over the family business.

They raise Holsteins, a breed specialized for milk production, and currently care for 35 head. However, the environment surrounding dairy farming is challenging, due to soaring feed prices and a decline in milk consumption in school lunches caused by the falling birthrate. “Dairy farming is becoming increasingly difficult for family-run operations, and there is a trend toward large-scale operations—such as ‘mega-farms’ and ‘giga-farms’—as well as increased use of IT,” says Mr. Mashima.

Amid these challenges, the Mashima family continues to find ways to create a circular system between dairy farming and crop farming while reducing costs—for example, by switching to self-produced feed. Today, Mr. Mashima primarily handles the dairy operations, while his wife, Mika—who holds a certification as a vegetable sommelier—is in charge of tomato cultivation, and their son, Sho, works alongside them as the couple’s successor.

Making “Dried Cow Manure Compost” (Highly Concentrated Type)

Since taking over the dairy farm from his father, Mr. Mashima has reportedly gone through a process of trial and error to find ways to make effective use of manure and urine, which are byproducts of dairy farming.

He wondered how he could take the composting efforts his father had started and develop them into a marketable product. He researched various methods, including reading books, and devised a unique technique: using a drying machine to reduce the moisture content of the manure and urine to less than 10 percent, then reusing the dried compost as a moisture-regulating agent.

“By mixing in the dried compost once it’s ready, we can adjust the moisture content and produce more high-quality compost. By repeating this process, we’re able to consistently produce high-quality compost without adding materials like sawdust.”

At the same time, with an eye toward sales, my father began growing ‘fruit tomatoes’ around the year 2000 to verify the effectiveness of the compost. He learned cultivation techniques from a relative who ran a tomato farm, and two years later, my husband and I took over the know-how. As a family, we conducted repeated trials, including optimizing the amount of compost applied.

“Once people started saying our tomatoes were delicious and they began selling well, the high quality of our compost was proven, and we were able to start selling the compost as well—but it took about five or six years to really get the business on track,”

It’s not uncommon for dairy farmers to produce compost. Generally, compost with a moisture content of 60% or higher is made by mixing manure and urine with rice husks or sawdust and allowing it to ferment. However, cases like Majima Farm’s—where dried manure is used to adjust moisture levels—are extremely rare.

Mashima Farm’s “dried cow manure compost”—an ultra-concentrated type consisting of 99.9% cow manure—is lightweight, easy to handle, and of high quality as a fertilizer. As word has spread, orders from farmers have increased, and they reportedly can’t keep up with production demand.

“We’re proud that even a small amount is highly effective as a fertilizer for crops,” says Mr. Mashima.

Start with large tomatoes and gradually cultivate them into high-sugar “fruit tomatoes.” 

To begin with, “fruit tomato” is not the name of a specific variety. Regardless of variety or size, any tomato with a sugar content of 8 or higher is called a “fruit tomato.” Small “cherry tomatoes” are often confused with fruit tomatoes, but “cherry tomatoes” is simply a general term for small tomatoes classified by shape. Unless they exceed the specified sugar content, they cannot be shipped as fruit tomatoes. Therefore, cultivation methods designed to increase sugar content are crucial. Generally, it is said that selecting smaller tomato varieties and growing them with restricted water intake makes it easier to increase sugar content, but Majima Farm has established its own unique cultivation method.

At Majima Farm, they use the large-fruited variety “Momotaro Fight.” They selected this variety after testing various types based on criteria such as flavor, tenderness, and skin firmness. They say the texture of the skin makes it enjoyable even for older people to eat.

“We’re still experimenting, but over the past few years, I think this variety has been the best fit for our cultivation methods,” says Mika.

The Mashima School takes more time than anywhere else

What sets them apart most is their philosophy of taking their time to grow healthy plants and then “slowly developing them to achieve high sugar content.” Because they take longer to grow their tomatoes than other farms, they sometimes receive inquiries from customers asking, “Other fruit tomatoes are already on store shelves—when will your tomatoes be shipped?”

While many farmers use “isolated cultivation”—which restricts root spread and strictly controls watering—to quickly increase sugar content and produce “fruit tomatoes,” Majima Farm does not restrict root spread. Instead, they take the time to grow healthy plants with strong root systems. Water restriction is also implemented gradually. Their commitment lies in the fact that they deliberately choose not to treat the plants as “fruit tomatoes” from the very beginning.

“To begin with, there are no seeds specifically for ‘fruit tomatoes’; we take large-fruit tomato varieties and cultivate them using methods that transform them into fruit tomatoes. In our case, we don’t use grafting; instead, we grow the plants so that the stems become thick and the roots spread widely. Furthermore, to ensure the effects of the compost last as long as possible, we apply a slightly larger amount of compost at the start. As a result, the plants initially produce large fruits. From there, we gradually restrict water to increase the sugar content. As a result, the tomatoes do end up smaller, but we produce tomatoes that are larger than average and have a high sugar content.

“I don’t find tomatoes appealing if they’re just sweet,” says Mr. Mashima. “I want them to have a tomato-like sweetness that comes from a balanced blend of sweetness and acidity, and I place great importance on the unique umami flavor derived from our homemade cow manure compost.”

トマトの目利きは、妻と息子

The sugar content is largely determined by the time the fruit begins to change color; as ripening progresses from there, the acidity transforms into umami, and the sweetness becomes more pronounced, resulting in subtle changes in flavor.

“As the sugar content rises, the flesh inside the tomato becomes translucent. Another indicator of high sugar content is a dark green line called ‘base green’ that appears at the stem end of a green tomato. The ‘star mark’ has become well-known, but we also use that as a guide while tasting the tomatoes daily to check their condition. When it comes to judging quality, my wife and son are simply in a league of their own,” says Mr. Mashima. His wife, Mika, continues:

“We divide up the task of assessing the tomatoes among the family. I do think we need to train the next generation, and if we were looking for uniformity, we could just use a sugar content sensor instead of relying on people. But we want to respond directly to the varying preferences of our customers. After all, we’re selling and interacting with customers face-to-face, so this is something we really want to cherish.”

As expected of Kochi Prefecture, known as a production area for “fruit tomatoes,” there is a lot of competition. Amidst this, Majima Farm meets customer requests with meticulous attention to detail.

A unique “diagonal training” method and the handcrafted work that supports 5,500 vines

Upon entering the tomato field, the first thing that catches the eye is an unusual cultivation method called “diagonal trellising.” This involves training the plants to grow diagonally while allowing the roots to spread freely. “We tried the hanging method, but we gave it up because the harvesting posture was too strenuous,” says Mr. Mashima.

With diagonal training, the harvest height rises as the plants grow, making the work easier. However, it requires an enormous amount of labor. All 5,500 plants must be tied with string, side shoots removed, and tended to daily. During peak season, the family alone isn’t enough to handle the workload, so they enlist help. This was the method he was first taught. Since then, for over 20 years, Mr. Mashima has spared no effort in continuing this tradition of diagonal training.

Furthermore, they have managed the temperature and humidity in the greenhouse not through computer control, but through experience and intuition honed over the years. True to its reputation as the “tropical region” of Kochi, it remains warm even in winter, with daytime temperatures ranging from 12 to 16°C. Moreover, while climate change has led to days when the temperature inside the greenhouse reaches 30°C, “We manage it with our own eyes and senses,” says Mika. Their refusal to cut corners and the experience they’ve accumulated over the years make all the difference.

Pest control involves “environmentally friendly agriculture,” which reduces the use of pesticides and utilizes natural predators. 

Furthermore, to control whiteflies—which damage tomato crops—they grew sesame alongside the tomato seedlings and collected seeds for the natural predator, the tobacco green stink bug. They planted cleome, the tobacco green stink bug’s host plant, to allow it to reproduce naturally and suppress pest outbreaks. They also practiced “environmentally friendly agriculture” aimed at reducing pesticide use. Kochi Prefecture stands out nationwide for its high level of awareness and active practice of this “environmentally friendly agriculture.” Led by the JA (Agricultural Cooperative), the region is promoting cultivation methods that do not rely on pesticides.

The “Ushi no Megumi” network, which spread through word of mouth among fellow vegetable sommeliers

The catalyst for expanding their sales channels was when Mika, the owner’s wife, earned her vegetable sommelier certification. A few years after moving to the area with her husband, Mika commuted from Kochi to Kagawa every weekend with five friends to earn her certification. The fellow vegetable sommeliers she met afterward—both within and outside the prefecture—showed their support by connecting them with restaurants and department stores and sharing their story on social media. Word of mouth spread in this way, and orders from outside the prefecture began to increase.

“Our customers bring in more customers,” they say.
For a family-run business with no time to go out and promote themselves, this has been a tremendous help.
Their greenhouse covers 25 ares. Although people ask, “Why not expand further?” they deliberately choose not to in order to maintain quality.

“25 ares is the limit we can manage properly between the two of us,” the couple explains.

Taste over scale. Their top priority is making their current customers happy. That commitment continues to grow their fan base.

Caring for cows leads to delicious milk 

Meanwhile, peering into the barn, I saw the dairy cows peacefully grazing on the grass. A calf looked over at me with curiosity. “Sakura-chan, Sakura-chaaan,” Mika called out. Apparently, every cow in the barn has a name, and she’s been telling them “You’re so cute” ever since they were calves. Even though keeping the cows stress-free is the number one requirement for producing delicious milk, Mika’s voice is as gentle as a mother calling out to her child.

The barn is equipped with misting systems and large fans to protect the cows, which are sensitive to heat. Their horns are cauterized and removed during early childhood to prevent injuries. Four times a day, each cow eats 25 kg of feed and produces about 30 L of milk. Breeding is also handled with great care. The first insemination takes place at 14 months of age, and the gestation period is 10 months. Milking is stopped two months before calving to ensure the nutrients go to the calf.

Furthermore, as part of a prefectural initiative, the farm cooperates with the embryo transfer program for “Tosa Akaushi.” Holsteins serve as surrogate mothers, supporting the region’s livestock industry.

To Surpass “Last Year’s Deliciousness.” A Family’s Ongoing Challenge  

The cycle in which compost from dairy farming nourishes crops, becomes feed for the dairy cows, and ultimately turns into delicious milk is what sustains Majima Farm.

At Majima Farm, the tomato harvest runs from December through the end of June. After that, they take a brief break before starting the next planting cycle, but Mika laughs and says that the period of tending the plants after planting is “the most fun.” Conversely, she says that once the harvest begins, the days become quite nerve-wracking.

“Up until now, we’ve made continuous efforts to improve our produce, and thanks to that, we’ve been able to build a loyal customer base. So now, we’re focusing on maintaining the same great taste as much as possible. My son is working hard on this, but in recent years, I’ve come to realize that managing the farm while anticipating future conditions is extremely difficult in the face of climate change.”

Mika adds, “The memory of ‘delicious’ in our customers’ minds becomes more idealized with each passing year. That’s why I grow tomatoes with the determination to surpass those memories—putting my heart into them so that customers will say they’re ‘delicious’ again next year,” she says.

Water management, adjusting fruit size, and meticulously assessing growth conditions with her own eyes every day—without relying on machines—are just some of the many efforts made to preserve the flavor. Combined with the “expert eye” that only a family can provide, these efforts will bring this year’s tomatoes to fruition.

The “cycle of blessings” created by cows, compost, and tomatoes will continue into the future, sustained by the power of the family.

The post “Mashima Farm,” the family that grows “Ushi no Megumi” cherry tomatoes—which attract orders from all over the country—/ Konan City, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Iseki Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. is one of Japan’s leading agricultural machinery manufacturers. Its founder, Kunisaburō Iseki, was born in Mima Village, Kita-Uwa District (now Uwajima City), a rural area known for producing delicious rice (Mima rice).

I want to free farmers from grueling labor

Ehime Prefecture is the birthplace of the company’s founder, Kunisaburō Iseki. The “ISEKI Dream Gallery” in Matsuyama City showcases the history and technology of Iseki Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. From a young age, Kunisaburō Iseki was involved in the family farming business. Farm work at that time was backbreaking labor, and he is said to have harbored a strong desire to “free farmers from grueling labor.” Amid an era of transition from manual labor to mechanization, driven by his passion for creating better products, he founded “Iseki Agricultural Tools Trading Company” in Matsuyama City in 1926. The first piece of agricultural machinery he developed was a “fully automatic rice hulling machine.” The company continued to contribute to the mechanization and modernization of agriculture, evolving into a business that supported postwar food production increases and Japan’s period of rapid economic growth.

Manufacturing from Matsuyama That’s Shaping the Future of Agriculture

In 1936, the company established a factory in Matsuyama City. Since then, it has developed and produced numerous agricultural machines that contributed to the mechanization and modernization of agriculture, supporting postwar food production increases and the period of rapid economic growth. In 1978, the Matsuyama Factory began production of large tractors. This factory, with its long history, continues to serve as the manufacturing division of the ISEKI Group’s agricultural machinery business under the name “ISEKI M&D Co., Ltd.” It serves as the core manufacturing hub within the ISEKI Group, providing manufacturing support for initiatives such as “Smart Agriculture” and “Environmentally Sustainable Agriculture.”

“As we transition from manual labor to mechanization, we want to build machinery that is truly useful. We continue to uphold our founder’s philosophy of ‘Let’s make quality products,’” says Masahiro Sakai, President and CEO of ISEKI M&D Co., Ltd.

The agricultural machinery manufactured by ISEKI M&D ranges widely from models for small-scale farms to high-output 130-horsepower tractors. The company handles a diverse lineup of products, including lawn mowers used overseas and ride-on maintenance machines that perform tasks such as weed control, pesticide and fertilizer application, and soil moisture retention. Because the company has established an integrated in-house production system—from parts machining to painting and assembly—it can quickly respond to the demand for a wide variety of products in small quantities, leading to the creation of products that are easy for farmers to use and affordable.

Smart Agriculture and an Integrated System for Vegetable Production Mechanization

The reality facing the agricultural sector is harsh. Due to the aging workforce and a shortage of successors, the number of workers is steadily declining. Tasks such as harvesting, planting, and crop management must be carried out intensively over short periods in accordance with the seasons and weather, making it impossible for the limited workforce to keep up. What is needed in these fields is agricultural machinery technology that can reliably ensure crop yields with minimal labor.

ISEKI is focusing on “Smart Agriculture,” which balances agricultural efficiency with environmental conservation. By leveraging the latest technologies—such as IT, sensors, GPS, and robotics—to enable operations tailored to crop conditions and field characteristics, the company achieves high productivity even with a limited workforce.

ISEKI also develops and manufactures tractors and robotic tractors equipped with smart agriculture technology. For example, GPS-based positioning assists tractors in maintaining a straight course within the field. This eliminates the need for operators to make frequent, precise steering adjustments, thereby reducing fatigue. Furthermore, robotic tractors contribute to improved operational efficiency by working in coordination with humans under human supervision.

In addition, the company developed “variable rate fertilization technology” in 2015, which adjusts fertilizer application rates based on field conditions. By minimizing fertilizer waste while reducing variations in crop growth and leading to stable quality and yields, the company aims to achieve both reduced environmental impact and improved productivity.

Around 1990, as mechanization advanced, the number of labor hours required for rice cultivation fell to one-fourth of what it had been in 1960, while the need for labor-saving measures in vegetable farming also grew. Compared to rice farming—where an integrated mechanization system involving rice transplanters, combine harvesters, and dryers was well established—vegetable farming at that time lagged behind in mechanization, creating a strong demand for reduced physical labor and labor savings. ISEKI is a company that has focused on developing an “integrated vegetable farming mechanization system,” beginning with the commercialization of the fully automatic vegetable transplanter “Nauel PV101.”

In fact, vegetable farming is characterized by significant regional variations in cultivation methods. Take green onions, for example: even when referred to simply as “long green onions,” the varieties and cultivation methods differ from region to region. There are also regional variations in ridge width and planting spacing, and ISEKI has developed machinery that allows farmers to adjust these settings to suit their specific region.

　Furthermore, the company has established an “Integrated Vegetable Production Mechanization System” by offering a full range of machinery and supplies compatible with a wide variety of crops, including daikon radishes, onions, cabbage, broccoli, taro, carrots, lettuce, edamame, green onions, and sweet potatoes. This system enables the consistent mechanization of the entire vegetable production process—from seedling cultivation to planting, management, harvesting, and sorting. This enables flexible adaptation to the production of multiple varieties in small quantities and to differences in growing conditions across regions, allowing for efficient farming operations with consistent quality even with a small workforce.

100 Years Since Our Founding: Connecting the Future of Agriculture Through Technology and People

Through continuous technological development aimed at solving real-world challenges on the farm, ISEKI holds approximately 2,200 patents, including technologies related to the development of agricultural machinery such as tractors, rice transplanters, and combine harvesters. The technical expertise the company has cultivated supports the evolution of smart agriculture and is transforming on-farm work into a more reliable and less burdensome process.

The new models manufactured by ISEKI M&D are a prime example of this. The company is also actively engaged in smart agriculture that leverages digital technologies such as GPS. These technologies support the agricultural know-how cultivated through many years of experience. For example, by having machines assist with precise tasks that skilled operators once performed intuitively, even less experienced operators can more easily perform work to a consistent standard. By using digital technology to pass down agricultural techniques—which have traditionally been handed down from person to person—to the next generation, the company is helping to address the shortage of workers and support the realization of sustainable agriculture.

Due to factors such as a declining workforce in the agricultural sector and the impacts of climate change, the number of workers on farms is decreasing. Improving efficiency and environmental considerations are essential. With the government’s “Green Food System Strategy” providing a tailwind, there is a growing demand for a shift toward sustainable agriculture, including labor-saving measures and organic farming.

ISEKI will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2026 and, as a company proud of its long history of technology and experience, is committed to addressing these challenges. The company develops large-scale, cutting-edge, field-crop, and eco-friendly agricultural machinery that balances labor-saving efficiency with environmental conservation. By expanding its range of eco-friendly technologies—including electrification—ISEKI supports highly productive and sustainable agriculture through high-quality agricultural machinery.

Furthermore, the company is dedicated to nurturing the next generation of engineers. We provide hands-on opportunities in design, manufacturing, and cutting-edge technology to hone problem-solving and decision-making skills, while also emphasizing the importance of learning from the technical expertise and wisdom cultivated over many years. The capabilities of the people and technology nurtured in this way directly contribute to agricultural efficiency and environmental consideration, supporting a more sustainable and prosperous agricultural sector. This approach to manufacturing—woven together by technology and people—will continue to bring new possibilities to agriculture.

The post Creating the Machinery of Our Dreams: A 100-Year-Old Company’s Vision for Agriculture and the Future. “Iseki Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. / ISEKI M&D Co., Ltd.” / Matsuyama City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In recent years, “seagrass die-off”—a phenomenon in which seaweed can no longer grow in the ocean due to rising sea temperatures—has become a global marine environmental issue. It is said that Japan’s natural seaweed beds are disappearing at a rate equivalent to 1,200 Tokyo Domes worth per year. Alarmed by this situation—in which the foundation of the marine ecosystem is being undermined, affecting the fishing industry as a whole—Kochi Prefecture-based “Sea Vegetable LLC” (hereinafter “Sea Vegetable”) launched the world’s first land-based cultivation of aonori using underground seawater in 2016. By expanding seaweed farms across the country in collaboration with local partners and actively pursuing both land-based and offshore cultivation, the company aims to preserve the richness of the ocean and the culinary culture centered on seaweed.

Cultivating Aonori, Which Disappeared from the Shimanto River, on Land

Kochi Prefecture is known for its intense sunlight streaming down from the blue sky and its warm climate. The prefecture has a narrow, east-west shape, with the Pacific Ocean to the south and the Shikoku Mountains towering to the north. At Sea Vegetable’s land-based facility, “Suji Aonori”—known as the highest-grade variety of aonori—is being cultivated using the world’s first land-based cultivation technology.

My deep love for the ocean, which I’ve felt since my college days

Co-founder Jun Hachiya, a native of Okayama Prefecture, conceived a business plan for “integrated aquaculture of abalone and seaweed using deep-sea water” while still a student at Kochi University. With the cooperation of co-founder Yuichi Tomohiro, he conducted demonstration research aimed at commercializing the project. Deep-sea water is seawater drawn from depths of 320 to 374 meters off the coast of Muroto in Kochi Prefecture; it maintains a stable, low temperature of approximately 10 degrees Celsius year-round.

Mr. Hachiya says he originally enjoyed diving into the ocean and catching fish he could see up close. “Every year, whenever I dived in the same spot, the number of fish visibly decreased. I realized that wherever fish gathered in large numbers, there was always seaweed, and driven by a desire to bring fish back to the ocean, I threw myself into seaweed research.”

Rising sea temperatures due to global warming have altered fish habitats and impacted Kochi Prefecture’s seaweed industry. The brackish water zone near the mouth of the Shimanto River—known as “Japan’s Last Pristine River”—where freshwater and seawater mix, was once the nation’s premier natural fishing ground for “suji aonori” (striped green laver), but by 2020, the catch had dropped to nearly zero. It is believed that the decline in catch is directly proportional to the rise in water temperature in the estuary.


Mr. Hachiya took action to revive the “suji aonori,” which could no longer be harvested naturally. He explained that his determination grew stronger as he thought, “If seaweed can no longer grow in the ocean, let’s grow it on land,” and “I want to take on this challenge to ensure that the culinary culture of seaweed does not die out.”

In a large tank built near the Pacific Ocean, blue-veined nori drifts about

When you visit Sea Vegetable’s land-based facility along the coast overlooking the Pacific Ocean, you’ll be amazed by the rows of massive circular tanks. The largest one has a diameter of about 25 meters—roughly the length of an elementary school swimming pool.

Suji aonori grows at an astonishingly fast rate; under the right conditions, it can double in size in a single day, and it’s said to possess such vitality that its appearance changes between morning and evening. The tanks come in four sizes, and about once a week, the grown Suji Aonori is transferred to larger tanks.

“There’s an ideal size for harvesting that’s considered the most delicious, so we designed these four sizes of circular tanks by working backward to ensure the seaweed grows to that size,” explains Mr. Hachiya.

Pump up the “underground seawater” and continue stirring

The tanks are filled with “underground seawater,” which reportedly maintains an ideal environment for seaweed growth throughout the year. Pumped from a depth of 20 meters underground, this “underground seawater” is naturally filtered as it passes through layers of sand and other geological strata from the ocean, ensuring clean water and a stable temperature. Furthermore, when it rains, freshwater mixes in, and on sunny days, photosynthesis flourishes. For seaweed that thrives in brackish waters where the sea and rivers meet, this location provides an environment close to nature.

Furthermore, the “groundwater” in the tanks circulated slowly in a circular pattern. Since striped green laver absorbs nutrients from the surface of its thallus and grows through photosynthesis, an environment with constant water flow and even light exposure is essential. Generally, seaweed grows normally by attaching itself to substrates such as stones or rocks using holdfasts, but here, the blue-striped laver is attached to one another. It spreads radially from the holdfasts—which function as roots—and is cultivated as it drifts through the water in a form resembling a bundle of fine threads, allowing it to grow to a uniform size.

Land-based cultivation, which holds potential different from that of marine cultivation

When I reached into the tank, the green suji aonori swayed gently and brushed against my fingertips. When I put it in my mouth raw, its fresh, vibrant green flavor spread throughout my mouth. I’ve heard that dried suji aonori turns a more vivid green and has a stronger aroma than the fresh variety. I’ve also heard that fresh suji aonori can be eaten as tempura, but either way, the natural, refreshing quality of the seaweed is sure to stand out.

Since suji aonori is widely distributed from Hokkaido to Okinawa, even within the same species, characteristics such as temperature tolerance and growth rate vary by region. When Sea Vegetable began land-based cultivation in Kochi, they focused not only on these characteristics but also on selecting elite strains with superior aroma and texture as food ingredients. They reportedly screened suji aonori from across the country and underwent a process of trial and error.

Next, I tried the eating method recommended by Mr. Hachiya. When I sprinkled powdered land-cultivated Suji Aonori onto a bag of lightly salted potato chips, I could taste the umami of the sea and experience its deep aroma. They say that growing it on land allows for meticulous nutritional management, resulting in a richer aroma and umami.

Looking Beyond Aonori: A Vision for the Future

Since seaweed reproduces via spores, the conditions for germination and growth vary by species. At Sea Vegetable, research is ongoing to identify the optimal cultivation methods while unraveling the characteristics of each individual species.

Black nori cultivation is now in full swing

They have also established a land-based cultivation technique for black nori, which has long been a cornerstone of Japanese food culture. They plan to successfully achieve mass production of black nori via land-based cultivation (300 kg or more in dried weight) by fiscal year 2025 and begin preparations for mass production starting in fiscal year 2026.

Mr. Hachiya stated, “There is a huge global market for black nori, so first, we want to establish the technology for land-based production and provide it to fishermen and companies in coastal areas who are losing their livelihoods, thereby creating new sources of income. At the same time, Japan has unique species of seaweed in each region, and quite a few are at risk of extinction. We are also considering raising seedlings for these species on land and releasing them back into the sea in their respective regions to establish aquaculture beds.” Ultimately, the goal is to restore the natural abundance of seaweed in the ocean.

However, per capita consumption of seaweed in Japan has fallen to about half of what it was 30 years ago, due to the diversification of the diet. Seaweed, which once naturally graced dining tables alongside traditional Japanese cuisine, is losing its presence as Western and Chinese cuisines become more widespread in daily life. Mr. Hachiya says, “The potential of seaweed isn’t limited to Japanese cuisine. Aonori goes well with pizza, and sprinkling it on potato chips releases a surprisingly rich aroma. I feel that the key to solving the problem of declining consumption lies precisely in genres we haven’t tried before, so I want to conduct various tests and share our findings.”

Develops Soy Sauce Made from Suji Aonori and Opens a Seaweed Specialty Store

One of their new challenges is “Aonori Soy Sauce,” made from Suji Aonori. This seasoning is produced by fermenting only aonori, salt, and rice—without using soybeans or wheat. It has a pale amber color. When tasted, the aroma of the sea fills the mouth, making it a perfect match for seafood. Because it is gluten-free and soy-free, the company receives many inquiries from overseas, and the product has become a symbol of the new value of seaweed.

Near Tokyo Station, we’ve opened “Sea Veg Stand,” a restaurant specializing in seaweed cuisine. It serves dishes like Suji Aonori Potatoes, dishes featuring “Mirin”—a rare red seaweed traditionally eaten in regions like Kumamoto—and ramen generously topped with seaweed, making it a hub that showcases the appeal of seaweed from multiple angles. This is where our effort to revive the “culture of eating seaweed” is beginning.

Researchers Hold the Key to Success

The lab is the key to Sea Vegetable’s business. It handles the most critical initial stage of land-based cultivation of Suji Aonori. Aonori harvested and cultivated at the lab is transferred to the land-based facility after about one month, where it is grown for another month before being harvested.

The mind-boggling task of sorting spores

“To succeed in land-based cultivation, the most important thing is to consistently harvest spores from the parent plants of striped green laver and raise them without letting them die,” says researcher Nigi. “If they die at that stage, there will naturally be nothing to send to the cultivation site. It’s crucial to remove anything—such as bacteria—that could harm the green laver spores and successfully raise them.”

The greatest challenge in cultivating Suji Aonori is maintaining the parent strains in a constantly healthy state to ensure a stable supply of spores throughout the year. It also involves the process of extracting spores from the parent strains and ensuring they grow stably without dying. To raise the spores healthily, it is necessary to thoroughly eliminate harmful impurities, such as bacteria, and maintain appropriate temperature control.

Holding a small petri dish, Mr. Nigi explains, “At first, they’re really just round specks about 10 microns in size.” Ten microns is 0.01 millimeters. Although the spores are invisible to the naked eye, they can be observed under a microscope, and after a few days, you can see them growing into the characteristic shape of aonori.

Nigi was performing a painstakingly delicate task, repeatedly and carefully using a pipette to aspirate the approximately 10-micron spores, isolating only the “high-purity spores.”

シーベジタブルを支える研究者

Furthermore, Mr. Nigi explains, “The harvest season for natural nori runs from fall through early spring; since growth stops in the summer, it wasn’t suitable for harvesting. However, to maximize the utilization of our facilities for land-based cultivation, we need to grow a combination of strains with different temperature tolerances. So, even within the same ‘Suji Aonori’ variety, we’ve tested about 100 different strains from Hokkaido to Okinawa to find the most suitable ones.”

Generally, land-based cultivation involves significant capital investment and operating costs, making profitability crucial. That is precisely why selecting strains that are resilient to environmental conditions and grow efficiently is the key to establishing this as a viable industry. Researchers are tackling this challenge as they strive to pave the way for the future of seaweed cultivation.

When seaweed returns, the future of the ocean will change

Seaweed forms the foundation of the marine ecosystem. As natural seaweed beds decline, a research report by the Good Sea General Incorporated Association reveals surprising results: using seedlings grown on land for offshore cultivation can increase fish populations by up to approximately 36 times compared to uncultivated waters.

As seaweed increases, fish return, and the ocean regains its abundance. Seaweed cultivation is not only a way to preserve our food culture but also an initiative that supports the future of the ocean. Sea Vegetable aims to become a reliable force—extending beyond the borders of Japan—to pass on a bountiful ocean to the next generation.

The post “Sea Vegetable LLC,” based in Kochi City, Kochi Prefecture, aims to preserve seaweed culinary traditions and the richness of the ocean through the world’s first land-based cultivation of aonori using underground seawater. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

There is no doubt that high-quality ingredients are one of the key elements that make a star chef’s dish stand out. In Amakusa City, Kumamoto Prefecture, there is a fishmonger who serves as the expert eye behind this. His philosophy is to select the very best fish and live up to the chefs’ trust, while also keeping the livelihoods of local fishermen in mind. The man who bridges the sea and the kitchen is Mitsuteru Honda.

料理人を通して、天草の魚の価値を再認識

Mr. Honda has always loved fish and used to work at a local fish market. He was influenced by a chef from the Kansai region he met there, which made him realize the importance of experiencing the “outside” world. “Because Amakusa is an island, I rarely had the chance to leave it,” Mr. Honda said. “But as I began seeing fish from other regions and dining at famous restaurants, I felt my world expanding.” He felt a sense of pride upon learning that the fish from Amakusa, where he was born and raised, were being recognized by chefs.

At the same time, however, he also realized the reality that it is difficult to sell fish at high prices when selling locally. The number of fishermen in Japan is on the decline, particularly among younger generations, and the harsh business environment is cited as a major factor. “I thought that if I could find customers willing to pay a fair price, I would be able to buy fish from the fishermen at a higher price as well. I believed that doing so would help support the livelihoods of local fishermen,” he said.

Becoming independent to support the livelihoods of fishermen

He later left the fish market to open his own shop, “Honda-ya.” When he opened the shop, he reportedly received passionate encouragement from chefs he had known since his days working at the fish market, who told him, “It doesn’t matter how much it costs—just get us the best fish!” He then held numerous discussions with local fishermen and established a partnership to ensure the final quality by improving the quality of primary processing—such as temperature control immediately after the catch.

Look at all the fish at the market and bid on only the best ones

The Amakusa Islands, located in southwestern Kumamoto Prefecture, consist of 120 islands of various sizes. At the fish market in Hondō, Amakusa City—located at the heart of the archipelago—3 to 5 metric tons of fish are delivered daily from three fishing grounds: the Ariake Sea, the Shiranui Sea, and the East China Sea. On busy days, the market receives as many as 300 different species. At 7:00 a.m., the live fish auction begins, and the spirited voices of the auctioneers and middlemen ring out in unison. Mr. Honda, with a calm demeanor, confidently bids on and wins the fish he has his eye on, one after another, without hesitation.

Rather than targeting specific fish, Mr. Honda’s approach is to examine all the fish available at the market that day and purchase every one he deems to be of high quality. Conversely, it is also part of Mr. Honda’s philosophy that even if a chef has placed an order for a specific species, he will not bid on it if the quality does not meet his standards, and will simply tell the chef, “We don’t have it.” This is because, ultimately, it does not serve the chefs’ best interests to lower quality standards just to source a particular species. Mr. Honda’s honest approach and keen eye for quality have earned him a strong reputation, and he enjoys the deep trust of “star chefs” who have earned stars in the Michelin Guide, including “Shimazu,” a hard-to-book sushi restaurant in Tokyo; “Sushi Sanshin,” one of Kansai’s premier establishments; and “pesceco,” a restaurant in Nagasaki.

To the chef, in the best possible condition

Furthermore, Mr. Honda is particular about how the fish are handled at the restaurant. Immediately after being caught, fish are in a state of excitement; lactic acid and blood flow into their muscles, which degrades their flavor, and their flesh becomes firm and tight due to stress. For this reason, live fish purchased are first transported to the restaurant’s holding tanks and allowed to rest until their stress subsides. He then calculates the time it will take for the fish to reach the chefs and personally performs the nerve-cutting and bleeding procedures himself. “My job is to deliver the very best fish to the chefs. It’s not just a matter of winning the bid and sending them off—I have a responsibility to hand over fish that have been prepared to be in their optimal condition,” says Mr. Honda.

On this day, Mr. Honda prepared three types of sashimi for us to taste: grouper, Ishigaki sea bream, and yellowtail. Aged for about a week, the fat had melded so deeply into the flesh that it practically repelled the soy sauce, and we were amazed by the flavor—a true concentration of umami. It’s no wonder that fishermen and chefs from all over the country visit his shop to learn from Mr. Honda’s knowledge and techniques, such as how to condition live fish and how to properly prepare them.

Supporting fishermen also helps protect the ocean.

“In the past, it was all about selling as much as possible, but things are different now. Due to various factors, the marine food web has collapsed; the seaweed and plankton that serve as food sources have declined, and fish populations are shrinking,” says Mr. Honda. As a result, fish prices have been rising year after year, and he fears that if this trend continues, fish will become a food item accessible only to a select few who can afford it.

Mr. Honda believes that if we can create a society where high-quality fish are traded at fair prices, fishermen will be able to earn a fair income. He believes this will not only prevent overfishing but also ensure that the fishing industry is passed down to the next generation, ultimately helping to preserve our rich oceans. The opening of “Honda-ya” was the first step toward realizing that vision.

In 2026, “Honda-ya” will mark its 10th anniversary. Mr. Honda’s eyes sparkle as he says, “I can feel the circle of people I’ve connected with—all because of this work—expanding year by year.”

His discerning eye at the market, his dialogue with fishermen, and his sense of responsibility toward chefs.

Each of these small steps has become a path leading him, little by little, toward the future he has envisioned: “a society where fish is traded at a fair price.” Looking ahead, Mr. Honda expresses his desire to continue meeting artisans from various fields and learning from them. Ten years after opening, the journey of “Honda-ya”—which was meant to be just a “first step”—is now transforming into a tangible sense of accomplishment. Today, as always, Mr. Honda stands between the sea and the kitchen, constantly thinking about what he can do to prepare for the next decade.

The post A fish connoisseur who has earned the unwavering trust of star chefs. Mitsuteru Honda of “Honda-ya” / Amakusa City, Kumamoto Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.