Sanriku is one of the most famous fishing grounds in the world. The coastal area of Iwate Prefecture is known for its rias coastline, a complex network of bays, where scallop cultivation is thriving. Yamakiichi Shoten, located in Heita, Kamaishi City, sells “swimming scallops” so fresh you can hear the sound from inside the box. By delivering quality scallops, the company is enhancing the value of Sanriku.

Kamaishi, “City of Iron and Fish,” rich in Sanriku seafood

Kamaishi City, located in the southern coastal area of Iwate Prefecture, faces the Pacific Ocean to the east and is home to the rich marine resources of the Sanriku fishing grounds. As the birthplace of modern steel manufacturing, Kamaishi has prospered as a “city of iron and fish.

Yamakiichi Shoten is located near the Hirata fishing port in Kamaishi City. The company was founded in 1989. The company was founded in 1989 by Yukiteru Yukiteru, the father of Takeichi Kimigahara, the managing director and the president, with the aim of selling seafood from Sanriku. At first, they mainly sold wakame seaweed, but one day they were asked by the fishermen’s cooperative to sell scallops since they had a surplus of scallops due to their inability to establish a sales channel.

He started selling scallops when the fishermen’s cooperative asked him to sell them because they had a surplus of scallops without establishing a sales channel.

Iwate scallops fetch a high price.

The bay, which is made up of the intricate topography of the Rias coastline, has calm waves, making it ideal for scallop cultivation. For this reason, wakame seaweed, scallops, and oysters are actively cultivated in Sanriku.

While Sanriku boasts the second largest production of wakame seaweed and the fifth largest production of oysters in Japan, scallops are the only fish cultivated widely from Hokkaido in the north to Miyagi in the south, with Iwate scallops accounting for a mere 1 percent share of the total. Iwate scallops account for a mere one percent of the total.
Iwate’s scallops compete with Hokkaido in terms of production volume, but Iwate’s scallops compete in terms of quality. If Hokkaido is like a major sushi chain, Iwate’s role is different, like a restaurant,” Goichi says.

Iwate scallops fetch the highest prices in the market. Although the amount of scallops produced is small, the quality of the scallops is highly valued in the market.

Cultivation differs by production area

In many areas, Hokkaido scallops are cultivated using the “jimaki method,” in which young scallops are released into the sea and raised in a near-natural state on the ocean floor. On the other hand, in Sanriku, Iwate, the “ear-suspension method,” in which holes are drilled in the shells and the scallops are suspended by ropes, is the most common method of cultivation. The method of cultivation is different.

In the “ear-suspension method,” the young shellfish are released into the sea and grow by swimming around on the ocean floor. While the “ground-shelling method” uses the “surface” of the seafloor to raise the young, Sanriku Iwate’s “ear-suspension method” takes advantage of the deep water terrain of the inner bay, or “depth,” to raise them while they are floating in the water. Scallops raised by the “ear suspension method” do not come in contact with sand on the seafloor, so there is no need for them to spit sand. This is also an advantage of the “ear-suspension” method.

In addition, “ear-hanging” scallops are suspended by ropes, making them easy for fishermen to manage. Sanriku Iwate scallops are more concerned with size and quality than number. Since growth is affected by barnacles, seaweed, and other attachments to the shells, the fishermen are particular about cleaning the shells and raising and lowering the ropes to adjust the depth of the sea water flow to a good level.

It is also important to keep a proper distance between scallops in order to grow large scallops. The scallops are hung at predictable intervals to prevent them from growing too densely together. This is also done to prevent each rope from becoming too heavy. If the rope becomes too heavy and the float drops, it may reach the seafloor. If the rope is allowed to float in the water but sucks up sand on the seafloor, it is a waste of time and energy. Ear-suspension intervals, shell cleaning, and float management. These are also the particulars of the scallop fishermen of Sanriku Iwate.

While scallops from Hokkaido take three to five years to grow to the same size for shipping, scallops from Iwate can grow to the same size in two years. This is partly the result of the Sanriku fishing grounds, where the Oyashio and Kuroshio currents mix, and partly the benefit of the mountains, thanks to the nutrients from the humus that flows from the mountains. Hokkaido scallops are the same size but have thicker shells, while Iwate scallops are the same size but have thinner shells. Iwate scallops, on the other hand, are the same size but have thinner shells and larger scallops and meat.

Iwate scallops have thinner shells and larger meat, resulting in a higher yield. Yamakiichi Shoten’s “swimming scallops,” which are delivered alive, are trusted by restaurants in Tokyo for their freshness.

What are “swimming scallops”?

Recipients of Yamakiichi Shoten’s “swimming scallops” are surprised to see the scallops “swimming in the water” and the shells flapping open and closed. They even have to be careful not to get their fingers caught when peeling the shells. For this reason, the “swimming scallops” come with a peeling spatula and instructions.

You can order scallops in sizes of 11 cm or larger. The largest scallops can be as large as 15 cm or more, and there are even “phantom scallops” that can be ordered. In addition to their size, scallops swimming in the sea are thick and crisp.

The scallops’ scallops are also the muscles that open and close the shell. This is why scallops that are healthy enough to swim also have crisp scallops. If you actually peel off the shell, you will see the scallop moving and shaking.

Thick scallops and tasty strings

Yamakiichi Shoten delivers high quality scallops, carefully selecting scallops that satisfy customers in terms of size, taste, and freshness.

As a result, people who have only eaten scallops bought at the supermarket are surprised at the texture and rich taste. Some of them even say, “I didn’t know scallops could taste this good.
When people think of scallops, they tend to think only of the scallops, but with our scallops, the strings are sweet and delicious as well. Depending on the season, you can also taste the ovaries. If you work carefully, you will be appreciated. I believe that,” Goichi says.

What was commonplace in the scallop production area was “something special.

When Goichi’s father, Koki, started selling scallops, he went to Tsukiji for market research. There, he was astonished to see scallops being sold under the name “live scallops. The scallops he saw were completely different from the fresh scallops he had seen in Kamaishi, and they were very weak.

We had grown up seeing scallops freshly landed in the morning, so we took it for granted,” he said. But what was natural for scallops in Sanriku was ‘special’ elsewhere,” he recalls. We realized that Sanriku scallops were “something of value.

I want to deliver Sanriku’s valuable scallops fresh.

The president went through a trial and error process of transportation and shipping methods in order to deliver scallops fresh. At first, he loaded trucks with scallops that had just been landed, but some of them died before delivery. They were supposed to be fresh, but they were not. He realized that in order to maintain the freshness of the scallops, it was important to create the same environment as when the scallops were alive.

Scallops are only as good as the water they are landed in. Each scallop is cleaned, sorted, and created stress-free in the fish tank. Immediately after they are landed, scallops are in a state of excitement, so we make sure they rest in the fish tank for at least one day to create the same conditions as when they are in the ocean, and let them relax before shipping.　In pursuit of freshness, Goichi has arrived at the “swimming scallops,” which are delivered alive.

The method is a trade secret, but the key is to “put yourself in the scallop’s shoes.

Overcoming the Great East Japan Earthquake

The “swimming scallops” spread throughout Japan by word of mouth because of their high quality. Then, in March 2011, the Great East Japan Earthquake hit. The Great East Japan Earthquake triggered a tsunami. Yamakiichi Shoten lost its office and fish tank.

The scallop fishermen who were close to Yamakiichi Shoten continued their production. Although Yamakiichi Shoten was able to continue doing business for a living even without the fish tank, Goichi said, “Our mission is to deliver good scallops from Sanriku. It is different to ask people to buy them as reconstruction assistance.” He sent letters to 30,000 customers and stopped shipping “swimming scallops” until the fish tank was rebuilt.

In July 2012, the fish tank was rebuilt and the “Swimming Scallops” were restored. Letters of encouragement and gratitude arrived from all over Japan.

We want to express our gratitude and convey the charm of the production area.

In 2020, he will open “Yosuke,” a restaurant with a direct sales shop. This is a place where people can taste “swimming scallops” while being close to the Sanriku Sea.

Because he has been delivering good scallops, he says, “Even after the earthquake, my customers never left and waited for me. I want to convey that gratitude. I also want to convey the charm of the scenery and people of the production area.

Enhancing the value of Sanriku and walking with Sanriku

On the wall of the restaurant “Yosuke” is a history of Yamakiichi Shoten, letters of encouragement received from all over Japan after the earthquake, and messages about scallops swimming in the sea.
The history of Yamakiichi Shoten is also the history of the scallop fishermen of Miyako, Kamaishi, and Ofunato.

Swimming Scallops” won the Director-General’s Award of the Small and Medium Enterprise Agency.

In 2023, “Swimming Scallops” won the Director-General’s Award of the Small and Medium Enterprise Agency in the “buyer’s room 2023.

The “Swimming Scallops” is a product made from scallops that are peeled and then flash-frozen. The scallops are large in size, rich in flavor, and plump in texture. The best quality is delivered in a paulownia wood box. Only 15% of the scallops used in this product are 45g in size. They are also very rare.

Sticking to Our Beliefs Even in Severe Circumstances

In recent years, global warming has caused sea water temperatures to rise in summer. The ocean environment, which used to be just right for scallops to live in, has changed drastically. As a result, some scallops do not survive the summer and die before being landed, leaving the aquaculture industry in a difficult situation. It is precisely because of this situation that Yamakiichi Shoten purchases at a high price the high-quality scallops that local producers grow with great care, thereby boosting the local industry.

Since my father’s generation, we have been striving to buy scallops at the highest price on the beach,” says Yamakiichi. Securing income for fishermen is important, but that alone will not last forever. I think it is also important to foster a sense of fulfillment and pride,” says Goichi. Sometimes, he would take the fishermen to restaurants that wholesale scallops in order to remind them of the deliciousness of the scallops he has raised. Today, the restaurant “Yosuke” plays a role in this process. The fishermen are rewarded when people who have tasted the “swimming scallops” at the restaurant tell others about their deliciousness and excitement, and spread the word about the scallops.

Even if the production volume decreases, we will continue to sell scallops one by one. Swimming scallops” are the very charm of Sanriku. That is why we want to deliver only the really good ones.

With this strong belief, the “Swimming Scallops” are released to the world. Their deliciousness is filled with the fisherman’s insatiable “persistence” and Yamakiichi Shoten’s desire for the development of the scallop industry in Sanriku.

The post We want to deliver fresh “swimming scallops” that tell the story of Sanriku’s potential. /Kamaishi City, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Spicy cod roe is an essential part of Fukuoka’s gourmet cuisine. There are said to be some 200 spicy cod roe manufacturers, both large and small, and Yamaya (Yamaya Communications), founded in 1974, is one of the best known in Fukuoka.

Relocated to new headquarters and factory on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the company’s founding

In 2023, Yamaya moved its factory and headquarters from Higashi-ku, Fukuoka City to Sasaguri-machi, Kasuya-gun, in the northwestern part of Fukuoka. It is located on a hill with easy access, about 20 minutes by car from Fukuoka City, and overlooks the lush greenery of Sasaguri Town.

The relocation is part of a major project to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the company’s founding, and the new Yamaya Factory Terrace, a facility where visitors can enjoy spicy cod roe more deeply, including a store selling freshly made spicy cod roe, a restaurant with a superb view, a factory tour, and a pickling experience. The new Yamaya facility has already become a hot topic of conversation, attracting locals and tourists alike, and is said to be playing a role in creating the vitality of Sasaguri Town.

New plant combining traditional manufacturing methods with the latest technology

Spicy cod roe refers to salted walleye pollock roe, which is then dipped in a seasoning solution. It was in 1949 that Toshio Kawahara, founder of Fukuoka’s Fukuya Corporation, created spicy cod roe based on the taste of cod roe pickled in kimchi that he had tasted in Pusan, Korea. Mr. Kawahara taught the production method to others around him, and the number of spicy cod roe makers in Fukuoka increased, with many of them taking pride in their taste. Yamaya,” which was established in 1974, was one of them. Furthermore, with the opening of the Sanyo Shinkansen bullet train line in 1975, demand for spicy cod roe increased, and spicy cod roe became famous throughout Japan as a “Fukuoka specialty.

The process of making spicy cod roe at Yamaya begins with purchasing Russian and American pollock roe from the Sea of Okhotsk and other northern seas to Busan and the United States, where auctions are held.

Once the mature roes, called mako, which are suitable for spicy cod roe, are purchased, they are salted at the factory using a unique method to produce salted cod roe with a nice, crunchy texture. While some spicy cod roe makers purchase the roe in the form of tarako (cod roe), “Yamaya” has been doing everything from purchasing the roe to making the tarako in-house in order to preserve the texture of the grains.

Adopted the industry’s first AI cod roe sorting machine

Once the cod roe is ready, this is where the “AI cod roe sorting machine” comes in. It is amazing that the machine can sort tarako by quality grade, such as commercial use, home use, and gift use, based on the bloodline and color of the fish from about 400,000 images.

Daisuke Taniguchi, the factory manager, says, “The reason we adopted AI was because we were facing a serious shortage of human resources, such as aging veteran factory staff.

Until now, sorting has been supported by the unverifiable knowledge of skilled connoisseurs. However, to break down the problem, we succeeded in using AI, which we developed jointly with IBM Japan, to incorporate the discernment into data that could be shared objectively. This has enabled us to maintain a high level of accuracy without placing a burden on veteran staff and has made stable manufacturing possible,” he smiles.

This is the first adoption of an AI grade sorting machine in this industry. With a flexible attitude that leads the industry, a new challenge has begun.

The key to the flavor is the artisanal sauce and 168 hours of aging

On the other hand, since the establishment of the company, we have been adhering to the manufacturing process of “Takumi-no-Tare,” a seasoning solution used to marinate cod roe and turn it into spicy cod roe. The sauce is made with chili peppers for a pleasantly spicy taste, Rausu kelp from Hokkaido that adds rich flavor, and blue and yellow yuzu citrons from Kyushu that spread a gorgeous aroma. The use of water causes the sauce to oxidize easily and shortens its shelf life, so Takumi no tare does not use water at all, instead using sake. The sake is used instead, and its flavor and sweetness on the spicy cod roe has the effect of creating a unique mellow taste.

The sauce, which has been passed down over the 50 years of its history, has been established as the “Yamaya” taste without changing the golden ratio in any age. Another key point is that this artisan sauce is aged for 168 hours, or seven days. While many manufacturers usually marinate the sauce for two to three days, the founder, Hideo Yamamoto, and his wife, based the sauce on their trial-and-error efforts to find a way to make it taste better, and found that marinating it for one week made it much tastier. Sensory tests have proven that the one-week aging process has also improved the taste.

The taste of the grains that pop in your mouth and the aroma of yuzu and daiginjo are the true essence of “Yamaya”.

Spicy cod roe “Sumisen” and “Yamamoto Shuha’s cod roe” filled with our specialties

Yamaya offers a variety of spicy cod roe, including “Dekitate Mentaiko” for home use and “Mimi” for gift-giving, but there is also a premium spicy cod roe that is even more particular about taste and quality.

The “Sumiyama” (280g / 6,480 yen), a twice-marinated style of spicy cod roe that is aged for one week as usual and then marinated for two days in “Kitaya’s” daiginjo “Kansansui” and Takumi no tare, entices with its smooth, rich, and elegant flavor.

Also available is Yamaya’s quintessential spicy cod roe, “Yamamoto Syuha no Mentaiko (300g / 10,800 yen). Yamamoto Shuha” is the pseudonym used by the founder, Hideo Yamamoto, when making spicy cod roe. For his son’s wedding, he personally selected the spicy cod roe for his son’s wedding, saying, “This is the only one I will ever make.” He selected each cod roe by checking its color, luster, and egg filling with his own eyes, and marinated it using a secret recipe.

The new vision is “From Kyushu to the world, the Yamaya Standard

Yamaya’s desire to deliver delicious food is not limited to spicy cod roe, but now encompasses a wide range of products, including the all-purpose dashi pack “Umadashi”, motsunabe, sake, and agricultural products. In addition to the nationwide Hakata Motsunabe Yamaya, the company also operates food service businesses in Asia, the U.S., and Europe.

In 2023, the flagship store “Yamaya Sohonten” will open in Shirokane, Fukuoka. It will open a kappo restaurant “Zen” and a casual dining and souvenir shop “Shirogane Neko Michi” to promote Kyushu’s cuisine.

Yamaya, which has been growing as a comprehensive producer of food by focusing on Kyushu’s food and food culture, aims to “set the Yamaya standard from Kyushu to the world”. The company’s global challenge is sure to energize Fukuoka and Kyushu even further.

The post Pursuing deliciousness with artisanal sauces and AI. The challenge of Yamaya, a spicy cod roe manufacturer established 50 years ago first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Bring Japanese cod roe to your table without freezing it

The raw material for spicy cod roe is cod roe called tarako. Spicy cod roe is made by marinating the roe in salted cod roe and then marinating it in a seasoning solution to which red pepper has been added. In Japan, it has long been customary to eat salted cod roe as a preserved food, but the spicy cod roe we eat today was born in Hakata, Fukuoka, after World War II. Toshio Kawahara, the founder of Hakata-based “Fukuya Co., Ltd.” invented the spicy cod roe kimchi-zuke, which he had eaten in Pusan as a child, and arranged it for the Japanese. As its deliciousness gradually gained popularity and demand grew, Mr. Kawahara generously disclosed his recipe, and many stores in Hakata began making cod roe using their own creative methods and flavoring, and it became a national specialty. Shimamoto Foods is one such company that has been making spicy cod roe since 1976.

Dual role of seafood wholesaler and mentaiko specialty store

When you visit the head office of Shimamoto Shokuhin, you will see the “Hatae Corporation” logo on the signboard at the entrance. This is the parent company of Shimamoto Foods, a wholesaler specializing in marine products founded in 1948, shortly after the end of World War II, by the grandfather of the company’s president, Masatake Hatae. Since its inception, Hatae has been visiting producers throughout Japan to select and stock high quality marine products. While visiting the beaches of Hokkaido in search of kelp, he came across high-quality cod roe and began wholesaling the raw material to a spicy cod roe manufacturer in Fukuoka.

Later, he took over Shimamoto Shokuhin Co., Ltd. a mentaiko manufacturer that was having trouble finding a successor. The family business of “finding and selling” was now joined by a new path of “making and selling.

Focusing on the rare waters around Hokkaido

When taking over the Mentaiko specialty store, the company’s policy was to use pollock roe landed in the waters around Hokkaido. This was also a matter of course for a marine products wholesaler.

Pollack is not caught in the waters around Kyushu, but rather in the colder regions north of Hokkaido. In addition, the recent abnormal weather has caused sea water temperatures to rise, and the habitat area for Alaska Pollack has gradually moved northward. Since foreign products are cheaper, not to mention more plentiful, many manufacturers are switching to foreign products, but Shimamoto Shokuhin continues to adhere to its policy of using domestically produced products.

The taste of eggs differs depending on the fishing grounds and fishing season

The reason why Shimamoto Foods insists on domestic production is because the quality of the eggs is different. When comparing cod roe from different regions, the roe from the waters around Hokkaido has a richer flavor and more granularity than imported roe. In addition to the region, the degree of growth of the roe also influences the taste and texture, so the fishing season is limited to December through January, the spawning season for walleye pollack, and the mature roes, called “mako,” which are suitable for cod roe, are carefully selected from the six stages of growth from immature roe to just before giving birth.

In addition, a luxurious product using only eggs from Kubka Bay in Hokkaido is also available in limited quantities and for a limited period of time. Located in the southwestern part of Hokkaido, Eruption Bay is known as a place where walleye pollock come to lay their eggs due to its calm waves, rich nutrition, and continental shelf suitable for spawning. It has a reputation among fishermen for being “deliciously different! It is a must-try for those who want to taste the top-rated spicy cod roe.

Techniques to keep freshness without freezing as much as possible

Pollack is a delicate fish whose flesh and roe tend to lose their freshness easily, so the processing of the fish must be done quickly by professionals. When the fish is from overseas, the roe is often removed from the fish or on board the ship and frozen for distribution, and no matter how advanced freezing technology has become, the flavor of the roe is inevitably lost along with the water through repeated freezing and thawing.

This is one of the main reasons why Shimamoto Foods insists on domestically produced inshore fish. Fish caught in the waters around Hokkaido are unloaded at the port and transported directly to the group’s processing plant in Wakkanai, Hokkaido, without being frozen. The roe is then pickled in salt, which serves both to preserve the roe and to remove excess water to enhance the flavor of the roe. After the first stage of processing in Hokkaido, the cod roe is transported to the Hakata factory. In Hakata, the cod roe, which has been tightly packed with salt, is dipped in a seasoning solution as the second stage of processing. The cod roe is then soaked in the seasoning solution to produce plump, firm spicy cod roe.

The mentaiko is then frozen to preserve its freshness. However, Shimamoto Shokuhin, which insists on freshness, also sells “freshly made spicy cod roe” for a limited time only.

To maximize the natural flavor of eggs

In addition, they have also devised a unique seasoning formula that allows the taste of tarako to be enjoyed to its fullest. Incidentally, each manufacturer of Hakata’s spicy cod roe has its own unique seasoning, which is one of the criteria for selecting cod roe.

One of the characteristics of Shimamoto Shokuhin’s seasoning liquid is the use of shochu (distilled spirit). Sake has the role of reducing fishy smells and adding richness and flavor, and many places use sake, but sake has a strong aroma and aftertaste that can interfere with the flavor of the ingredients.

In order to make the flavor of the codfish stand out, the seasoning is kept to a minimum, while the seasoning itself is made stronger, and the marinating time is kept as short as possible at 24 hours. This is another way to maintain freshness. Because fresh cod roe is so beautifully colored, no coloring agents are used. Shimamoto Shokuhin’s cod roe is characterized by its simple and gentle taste, which is safe for everyone from children to adults.

Among them, “Original Mentaiko” made from carefully selected cod roe from Hokkaido using traditional methods is a masterpiece that can be considered the starting point of “Shimamoto Shokuhin”. We hope you will taste it as it is, served on top of freshly cooked rice. The fine grains burst out and melt smoothly on your tongue, and the delicious flavor spreads softly in your mouth. The quality and freshness of the ingredients is what Shimamoto Shokuhin values most, and you can feel it when you taste this.

Numerous processed products using fresh cod roe

Mentaiko eggs that are torn in the process of making mentaiko, are too small, or are not made into products despite being good eggs, are either sold for home use or used in processed products. Among these, “mentaiko mayonnaise” is particularly popular. It can be used in an infinite number of ways, such as on toasted bread or with noodles. It is especially good with fried foods, such as fried chicken, fried shrimp, and French fries. The ease of use is another reason for its popularity among young people. Shimamoto Shokuhin is also proud of its squid mentaiko, which is squid so fresh that it can be served as sashimi, dressed with a generous amount of mentaiko. The sweetness of the squid combined with the saltiness of the cod roe will make both rice and sake go down a treat.

Shimamoto Shokuhin plans to develop more and more products to let people around the world know the deliciousness of mentaiko from Fukuoka. First, they are developing a sauce for Asia, which has a similar food culture.

Third-generation president Seigo Hatae is bewildered by the recent dizzying changes in the sea and keenly aware of the importance of protecting the environment. Not only in Hokkaido, but I think it is important to limit the amount of fish caught and to protect and manage them properly. We cannot mass-produce because we insist on domestic production, but I hope we can at least maintain the current amount. In order to do so, I think we must protect the local industry as well as the environment.

Mr. Hatae is concerned that a decrease in fish catch will lead to a decrease in the number of processors, and as a result, the region will decline and become unviable. 5 years ago, he merged with a processing plant in Hokkaido to pass on the local industry to the next generation, a step toward recovery.

Protecting the environment, protecting the community, and protecting customers. This is the driving force behind Shimamoto Shokuhin’s mentaiko production.

The post Spicy cod roe from Shimamoto Shokuhin, which insists on domestically produced fresh cod roe / Kasuya-gun, Fukuoka Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Have you ever heard of “Nama-Takiki-Shirasu,” a product of Minamichita-cho, Aichi Prefecture, a major producer of shirasu (baby sardines)? It is a tsukudani (food boiled in soy sauce) made with the original flavor of shirasu, which is difficult to handle in its raw state, and sweetened with sauce, and has won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award. The taste is different from both kama-age shirasu and dried shirasu. Shiro Sakashita, president of Marui-Shouten, the company that developed the product, told us the secret.

What You Need to Know about Mikawa Bay Shirasu

Minamichita Town is located in Chita County, Aichi Prefecture. Located in the southern part of the Chita Peninsula, the town consists of the tip of the peninsula and the islands of Shinojima and Himakajima, which lie offshore from the tip of the peninsula. Marui-Shouten, a seafood processing and wholesale company, is located in this region surrounded on three sides by the sea, where the fishing industry is thriving. According to the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries’ 2021 statistics on fisheries and aquaculture production, Aichi indeed accounts for about 14% of the total share, which is the second largest in Japan. Furthermore, on a municipal basis, Minamichita boasts the largest catch of shirasu (baby sardines) in Japan.

How did Minami-Chita become a major catch center for shirasu? The reason is the spawning season of sardines, the parents of young sardines. Ise Bay and Mikawa Bay intersect here on the inner side of the bay, and the Pacific Ocean lies on the outer side of the Atsumi Peninsula. Because the water temperature and other growing conditions differ between the inner bay and the open ocean, the sardines spawn at different times of the year. This is why the fishing season for sardines is longer than in other areas.

Every minute counts. Freshness is the lifeblood of Shirasu.

The shirasu (baby sardines) that Marui-Shouten now mainly handles are brought to the company’s factory as soon as they are landed at the local Morozaki Fishing Port. Shirasu are quick to catch, and those landed in the morning are not very fresh by the evening, and they start to smell bad. In Minamichita, where the catch is large, it is difficult to consume all the fresh shirasu on the same day, so it was necessary to process them into dried shirasu, tsukudani, and other products that would last for a long time before shipping. The company, too, only handled fresh shirasu to the extent that it could sell it immediately, and manufactured processed products such as kama-age shirasu, dried shirasu, and chirimen-jako (dried young sardines) for distribution to supermarkets throughout the country.

Nama-Suikki Shirasu” is a tsukudani (food boiled in soy sauce) that brings out the texture and umami of the shirasu.

Marui Shoten is a marine products processing company established in 1908. The company processes and sells marine products caught in the local Mikawa Bay, nearby Ise Bay, and the Pacific Ocean, and opened a direct sales office in 1991. Since then, the company has also focused on developing its own brand products. One of its signature products is “Nama-Takiki-Shirasu” (fresh-cooked baby sardines), which is not a familiar name. The name may be unfamiliar, but it refers to the tsukudani (boiled and seasoned young sardines) made by cooking them raw, and in 2009 it won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries Award.

Generally, shirasu tsukudani is made by boiling down cooked shirasu with sauce, as in the case of kama-age shirasu. However, in the case of nama-kaki shirasu, the shirasu is not cooked, but literally “raw,” and is boiled down with the sauce. This allows the original flavor of the shirasu to be preserved. Once boiled, the fish will inevitably release its flavor,” he says. By cooking it from raw, the original flavor of the fish remains. It doesn’t have an odor, and its soft texture is well received,” Sakashita says proudly.

Learn about the process of making tsukudani, which is different from “common tsukudani”

It is said that it is difficult to cook small fish such as shirasu from raw. The reason is that in its raw state, the fish contains a lot of water and tends to lose its shape. When we first tried making tsukudani from raw fish using ikanago, which is larger and fresher than shirasu and is available in abundance in Minamichita, we succeeded without incident. However, the fishing season for ikanago was short and not suitable for mass production. So, they decided to make a tsukudani using shirasu, which is caught in large quantities and has a long fishing season.

However, the initial development of the product was a series of failures. They started with a small household pot and made trial and error until they were satisfied that the shirasu would not collapse and that the flavor of the tsukudani sauce would be retained. He says that while proper heat is necessary to cook the shirasu without losing its shape, the most important factor is freshness. Freshness is the most important factor, he says, because fish that loses its freshness quickly loses its shape. That is why he has to process fresh shirasu caught right in front of his eyes as quickly as possible, even if it is only a minute or a second.

A gem born from trial and error

The result of this trial-and-error process is the fresh-cooked shirasu. The sauce is made from soy sauce, sake, mirin, and sugar, and only the amount used that day is added. No thickening agents commonly used in tsukudani (food boiled down in soy sauce) or syrup are used. This is to preserve the natural taste and texture of the fish. They also insist on using no additives, and do not use any coloring agents or preservatives. The sugar in the sauce acts as a preservative, so the fish can be refrigerated for up to two months.

When you put it in your mouth, you will be surprised at its tenderness. The softness of the fish in the mouth is surprising, and the sweetness of the sauce preserves the original flavor of the fish, and each piece retains its shape and firmness. The ease of eating and the sweetness of the seasoning have made it popular with a wide range of people, from children to adults.

Climate change, rising fuel prices. Fisheries Entering a Transitional Period

Marui Shoten not only processes and sells fish landed locally in Minamichita, but also exports fish using freezing technology. Since Mr. Sakashita took over the business as the fourth generation, the company has been purchasing fish from outside Minamichita. This is due to the effects of recent climate change. Mr. Sakashita says, “Some of the fish we used to be able to catch are no longer being caught, and there are fish mixed in that we could not catch before. I think this will change further in the next 10 years,” he said, describing the current situation in which fish are gradually moving. The fish move, but the fishermen cannot move from their fishing grounds. For processors, too, they cannot immediately renew large equipment that they once put in place.

Considering the future of fisheries-related businesses

Climate change is an unavoidable problem for the fishing industry, which deals with nature, and the fish processing industry, which does business with the fish it lands. At the same time, the rising cost of fuel due to soaring energy prices is also putting pressure on business. Against this backdrop, Mr. Sakashita believes that “aquaculture” will be one of the keywords for the future of fisheries-related businesses.

Mr. Sakashita says, “More and more large, well-financed companies are entering the aquaculture business. Even companies that were not involved in the fishery industry are now entering the business,” he says. Although the amount of fish caught is decreasing, Mr. Sakashita’s analysis suggests that they may be anticipating an increase in demand for fish as the world’s population continues to grow. From a fishery that catches what is available to a fishery that makes its own fish. Such a future may be just around the corner.

Breaking through difficult situations is the best part of running a business.

Although the fishing industry seems to be in a constant state of distress, Mr. Sakashita is proud of his work. The catch changes every year, with some years having good catches and some years having poor catches. Even so, he believes that the best part of running a business is figuring out how to make the best use of the product in front of him and meet the demand. Sakashita laughs, “The fun part is figuring out what kind of fish to use and what kind of business to do with them when the local fish market stops producing them.

And the fresh-cooked shirasu supports his mindset. Our products are not something that anyone else can produce,” he says. It is because we are the only ones who can make them that we feel a strong sense of satisfaction when we see the reaction of our customers when they try our products. It is precisely because we are in difficult times that we shine. We would like to see what kind of ideas Mr. Sakashita has in store for us.

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Fermented “pickled puffer fish roe in bran,” which is no longer poisonous when fermented

“I’ve eaten puffer fish, and life is spared.” Pufferfish is certainly delicious. However, only licensed professionals are allowed to eat fugu because of the deadly poison hidden in its body. Arayo, a food processing company in Hakusan City, was founded some 180 years ago in 1830, and its seventh president, Toshiaki Araki, continues to produce the “forbidden taste” of “pickled puffer fish eggs” using a traditional method.
In this area, people have been secretly eating pickles since the Edo period (1603-1867),” he says. Originally, we used to grate the fish into three pieces and marinate the meat in nuka-zuke, but the albacore became more popular as it tasted better, and that became the main ingredient. Milt is pickled in salt for one year and then in tsukemono for two years to detoxify and ferment before being eaten. Currently, this process is recognized and only Ishikawa Prefecture is permitted to manufacture and sell this product.”

When we visited the factory located near the Sea of Japan, we were filled with the strong smell of fish. But there was a hint of “umami” in the smell. This is the line between “stinky” and “tasty”. The fish becomes tasty when it is fermented.“ I understand that fermentation makes the fish tastier, but why does it lose its toxicity?” (Nakata).
“Actually, we haven’t figured that out yet. But if you look into it, you will find that the poison becomes less than 1/10 in the first year, and almost no poison remains in the following two years. There is a theory that lactic acid bacteria break down the poisonous tetrodotoxin, but the details are not known.”(Mr. Araki, President)

I want you to know the taste of fugu.

They handle small sesame fugu (blowfish). In Ishikawa, May is the sesquicentennial sesquicentennial sesquicentennial sesquicentennial sesquicentennial sesquicentennial is the best time to make nukazuke. The bran is made using natural ingredients and traditional methods, and rice malt and “ishiru” made from sardines are added to make a more flavorful pickling bed. When you visit the warehouse, you will see rows of old-fashioned wooden barrels weighted down with large stones. The warehouse is wooden, hot in summer and cold in winter. Fermentation proceeds slowly in Ishikawa’s natural environment.
In addition to offering factory tours and a fugu-no-ko kasuzuke experience, Arayo is also making efforts to make fermented foods more accessible by offering ochazuke, rice balls, and parfaits at the café attached to the main store.
The best tasting nukazuke with puffer fish roe is ochazuke with Kaga-bocha tea, but it is not only good with rice. But it also goes well with oil, butter, garlic, and other ingredients as well as rice. At first, people are a bit hesitant to eat it, wondering, “Is it really poisonous? But they are surprised at how tasty it is.
Ishikawa has an abundance of seafood, and sushi is delicious wherever you eat it. However, the painstakingly made “pickled puffer fish roe in rice bran” is not to be missed. It keeps well for a long time, so it is highly recommended as a souvenir.

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

全国からの客が絶えない金沢一の寿司「小松弥助」寿司職人･森田一夫さん／石川県金沢市 – NIHONMONO 全国でも有名な小松弥助 「東の次郎、西の弥助」と称された金沢鮨の名店「小松弥助」。2015年11月に惜しまれつ

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Japan’s best fishmonger in one of the nation’s leading fishing ports

Yaizu City in Shizuoka Prefecture is home to the Oigawa Fishing Port, where shirasu (baby sardines) and sakura shrimp, which can only be caught in Suruga Bay, are landed; Yaizu Port, a base for pelagic fishing, where bonito and tuna are mainly landed; and Ogawa Port, where coastal horse mackerel and mackerel are landed, which collectively boast some of the largest catches in Japan. Sasue Maeda Fish Store, a fish shop located a two-minute drive from the Yaizu Fish Port, is constantly crowded with local customers from the moment the store opens. The store has a wide selection of products and inexpensive prices, as one would expect from a port town. The fifth-generation owner, Naoki Maeda, is “the best fishmonger in Japan” and has earned the trust of top chefs.
His customers include Naruse (Shizuoka City), a famous tempura restaurant that attracts gourmets from all over Japan, Sushi Yoshitake, a three-star Michelin restaurant, as well as NARISAWA, Den, Kiyama, Sushi Shikon (Hong Kong), and many other famous restaurants in Japan and abroad.
My mother carried me on her back and gave me fish fillets whenever I was hungry, even before I can remember. Whenever I was hungry, my mother would give me fish fillets on her back. Of course, I never put soy sauce on them. Perhaps it was because of this that I learned the true taste of fish. To this day, the most delicious fish I ever tasted was the octopus sashimi I had in kindergarten. Even now, I only eat fish. I want to sell only what I think tastes good,” says Maeda.

Facing fish with your life

In the spacious backyard, Maeda-san spends all day long processing fish and shipping them domestically and internationally. The fishmonger’s job is not only to buy fish and then sell them. We look at weather maps to predict where and what kind of fish will be caught, and we figure out how the fishermen caught the fish and the best way to handle and preserve them. For example, the stress on the fish can vary depending on the way the reel is wound. How to deliver the fish to the restaurant or to the customer’s table without stressing the fish. I think it is my job to think about that,” says Maeda.

I also calculate what happens after the fish arrives at the restaurant. “How and when will the fish be prepared and served? I try to assess the condition of the store’s refrigerators and the skill of the chefs. I don’t just want to sell fish; I want to provide delicious fish by looking at the other side,” says Maeda.
Mr. Maeda is called “the best in Japan” because of his superb technique. He quickly places a large flatfish, which is still jumping around, on the cutting board, and in no time at all, he has the fish live-tightened, drained of blood, and cleanly filleted. After sprinkling a little salt on the fillets on the cutting board, the fillets began to move jerkily, as if they were sweating, and began to drain water. This process removes the smell of the fish and allows us to enjoy the fresh taste. Not only is it tasty, but it has a long aftertaste. How to handle the fish, how much salt to sprinkle on it, and how much moisture to retain are all things I have to judge with my five senses. If I take a day off, my senses become dull and it takes me three days to get them back. That’s why I can’t take a day off. I am working with nature, so I can’t give 100 points every day, but I always want to be that way. Such words do not seem exaggerated. People in Yaizu who have such a fish shop in their neighborhood make me very envious.

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

幻の豚“中ヨークシャー”を育てる「桑原康」／静岡県富士宮市 – NIHONMONO 最高品質の豚肉をつくるために世界を奔走 「ほら、あそこの豚。しっぽ太いじゃないですか。しっぽが太い豚は、ロース

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Amanatsu is a long-established restaurant that offers a lineup of products made from high-quality seafood, including “Echizen Tailored Shio Uni” (sea urchin).
Shio Uni,” with its rich flavor and concentrated aroma of the sea, has a reputation for being the best tasting sea urchin
.
You can enjoy the taste created by the commitment to the region of origin, careful handiwork that has remained unchanged for over 200 years,
and an inquisitive mind for flavor.

Amanatatsu, located in Fukui City in northern Fukui Prefecture, is said to be one of Japan’s top three sea urchin delicacies, along with karasumi (dried mullet roe) and konawata (sea urchin roe). Junichi Amano, the 11th generation owner of Amanotatsu, who has inherited the 200-year history of Amanotatsu, is striving to preserve the traditional taste while looking ahead to the next 200 years and conveying the charm of “Shio-Uni” to the next generation.

Deep Relationship with the Echizen Fukui Clan

The main store of Tentatsu is located in Katamachi, a busy shopping district in the center of Fukui City. The area is dotted with historical relics , including the ruins of Fukui Castle, Yohko-kan Garden, a villa of the Echizen Fukui feudal lord, and the ruins of Kitanosho Castle, the former residence of Katsuie Shibata.

Tentatsu” was founded in 1804 as a purveyor to the Fukui Domain, and the third generation of the family, Gohee Tennouya, created salted sea urchin (product name: “Shio-Uni”). It is said that this was inspired by an order from the feudal lord of the Echizen Fukui domain to develop a food that could be stored for a long time in case of an attack on the sea.

The third generation, under orders from the feudal lord, apparently spent many days walking along the coast from Mikuni Port to Tsuruga Port in the northwestern part of Fukui Prefecture, searching for ingredients and came upon sea urchin, which had been caught in abundance since that time. He then invented the “salting method,” which is the production method for “shio uni” (sea urchin). It is said that he taught this method to fishermen and divers along the Echizen coast, who collected the sea urchin and presented it to the clan as a tribute. Because it was made on the Echizen coast, Shio-uni was also called Echizen-undan (sea urchin),” says Amano.

As time passed, the seventh generation Tenno-ya Tatsukichi was called “Tentatsu,” an abbreviation of the name of the feudal lord Matsudaira Harutake, who was considered one of the Four Wise Generals at the end of the Edo period. Because of this close relationship with the Matsudaira family, the wrapping paper for “Shio Uni” uses a map of the ruins of Fukui Castle from the Edo period as a motif.

Prepared entirely by hand

Shio Uni” is made by sprinkling salt on the ovaries of Buffoon sea urchins, draining their water, and then letting them mature to a mild flavor. Early in the morning, the divers catch the sea urchins, crack open the 2-3 cm shells, and take out the sea urchins so as not to damage their contents. The shells are then placed in the abalone shells and carefully rinsed in salt water.

The sea urchins are then drained and placed on a coarse-mesh mat. The sea urchins are then covered with salt, turning them one by one with chopsticks to get the right “saltiness”. The sea urchin is then placed on a coarse sesame mat, and each sea urchin is turned over one by one with chopsticks and sprinkled with salt to the right “saltiness”.

The careful preparation of the sea urchin by hand and the scarcity of more than 100 pieces of sea urchin required to make 100 grams of “Shio Un i “ are the reasons why it is called the highest quality sea urchin.

A special gift in a paulownia wood box

It is said that “Shio-uni” was invented as a preservative food for the “ikusa” (a kind of warship). It is said that “even though it was a preserved food, since it was to be presented to the lord, he must have sought novelty and deliciousness. I think the fruit of these efforts was ‘shio uni’ (sea urchin),” Amano surmises. As the peace of Edo continued, “shio uni” became not only a preserved food but also a delicacy representative of the Fukui clan. Because it lasted for a long time, it was also valued as a gift, and the feudal lord allowed it to be placed in a paulownia box.

The tradition of packing in paulownia boxes, which enhanced the value of the product as a gift in the Edo period, has been handed down to the present day. Along with plastic containers with high preservation qualities, and pottery and lacquered containers, “Shio-Uni” in a paulownia box still retains its special value as a gift for a loved one.

Looking ahead to the next 200 years

The “history” that has continued since the Edo period has enhanced the value of the “Shio Uni” brand. As the heir to this history, the current owner, Mr. Amano, has a growing sense of urgency. The reason is that the catch of the raw material, the Buffoon sea urchin, has been decreasing nationwide. The catch from Fukui Prefecture has dropped to one-tenth of its peak.

In recent years, “Tentatsu” has been visiting all over Japan to cultivate production areas other than its home prefecture of Fukui, such as Tottori and Nagasaki. The company also purchases “shio uni” produced not only in Japan but also in overseas regions. All of them are made from buffoon sea urchins.

Amano says, “We want to continue to use the small, rich-tasting buff sea urchin from the Echizen coast for our ‘Shio Uni,’ which is made from the same sea urchin. The “sweetness” unique to buff sea urchin is the reason why he insists on using buff sea urchin. I have also tried purple sea urchin and red sea urchin. In my opinion, the purple sea urchin is not as sweet as the red sea urchin. The soft sweetness of the Buffoon sea urchin fills the mouth. He also thinks that the diversity of the sea urchin’s region of origin is an attractive feature of the product. Red sea urchins come from a limited number of regions. Buffoon sea urchins come from a wide variety of regions, so you can enjoy different flavors in each region.

The reason why Amano makes his “Shio-Uni” in the places where they are caught, and why Amano buys it from them, is because he wants to respect the food culture unique to the region.

In order to protect the marine resource of the buffoon sea urchin, Mr. Amano is participating in an effort to fully cultivate the buffoon sea urchin with the Fukui Prefectural Fisheries Experiment Station, university professors researching sea urchin cultivation, and fishermen.

Blending sea urchins to determine their maturity

The sea urchins collected at Tentatsu are left to mature at low temperatures for one, two, and three years. The staff, who are called “blenders” at Tentatsu, blend the sea urchin to the optimum blend after determining the state of maturity of each sea urchin. Shio uni (sea urchin) from Hokkaido, Tottori, and Nagasaki is used. The blended sea urchin becomes Ten-Tatsu’s signature product , Echizen-Shite Shio Uni. This aging and blending technique is the source of the delicious taste.

Mr. Amano is confident in saying that this is the best time to taste it.

A research conducted jointly by the Fukui Prefectural Food Processing Research Institute and Tentatsu revealed that the bitterness component of Shio Uni is reduced by aging, and the umami and sweetness of the sea urchin are relatively enhanced. What we had known from experience was now scientifically proven.

Conveying Flavor by Production Area

In October 2022, the company began selling “Shio Uni” according to region of production as a new trial. Only at the main Amanatatsu store, customers can purchase shio uni from Oshima Beach in Fukui, Pohang in Korea, and Funadomari in Hokkaido. Because of the limited number of sea urchins available, they are not sold at branches or via the Internet.

This is an attempt to convey the fact that sea urchins are omnivorous and their taste varies depending on the sea in which they are grown. For example, sea urchins from Fukui are characterized by their rich flavor and sweetness, with a moderate saltiness in the aftertaste. The Korean product has a mellow taste with an aroma of the seashore. Hokkaido produce has a moderately bitter and salty taste.

In 2011, the company revived “dried sea urchin,” which once ceased to exist in the early Showa period. Unlike “Shio-Uni,” which is made by pickling sea urchin in salt water, “Dried Sea Urchin” is made by heating sea urchin in salt water and then drying it. The company has also expanded product variations based on “Shio-Uni. Powdered Sea Urchin” is a luxurious sprinkling of “Echizen Tailored Shio Uni” that has been dried and powdered. Undan Awase” combines the sauce made from “Shio Uni” with natural abalone, snow crab, sweet shrimp, and other ingredients.

Fusion of tradition and modernity

The company is also beginning to fuse the traditional Japanese ingredient “shio uni” with Western cuisine. They have developed Western-style products such as “Sea Urchin Bisque,” which uses sea urchin in bisque, a French soup, and “Sea Urchin Gratin. Recently, they have added a new product, “Unotan Ahijo,” in which sea urchin is simmered in olive oil and garlic.

Shio Uni has long been loved as a snack with sake, but it is also excellent on rice. We would like to propose ways to eat it and offer variations in cooking so that people, especially the younger generation, who are unfamiliar with shio uni will discover its deliciousness,” says Amano.

We have also asked chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants to help us explore the possibilities of Shio Uni as an ingredient. At a collaboration dinner between famous chefs from Tokyo and Fukui, a specialty dish was served with caviar and “Shio Uni”.

Amano continues to update its products to pass on its ancient traditions to the future, and in the fall of 2022, a new factory with thorough temperature control and hygiene management will be opened. At the new factory, Mr. Amano talks about his dream. I want to continue the 200-year history of Amanatatsu for the next 200 years. I want to continue the 200-year history of Amano’s sea urchins and deliver to the world the joy that can only be experienced at Shio Uni.

In the eyes of the 11th generation owner, I see a future in which the Fukui-born food culture, which has been passed down through a series of new changes, will attract the attention of the world.

People’s tastes and preferences change with the times, and although Shio Uni has been around for more than 200 years, Amano aims to create the most delicious taste of each era. We want our customers to simply enjoy our delicious sea urchins. Our spirit will never change, and we will continue to pursue the taste of our local delicacy in gratitude to our hometown, Fukui.

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What is the bamboo Chikuwa that Minamoto no Yoshitsune praised so highly?

Tani Chikuwa Shoten, located in Komatsushima City, Tokushima Prefecture, has specialized in “bamboo chikuwa” and other fish paste products for over 60 years.

Unlike chikuwa sold throughout Japan, which have a hole in the center, bamboo chikuwa is sold with the bamboo attached to the center. The most common way to eat chikuwa is to hold the bamboo and bite into it, or squeeze a little sudachi (Japanese citrus juice) on it.

Komatsushima, where Tani Chikuwa Shoten is located, is said to be the site of the famous “fan target” scene in “The Tale of the Heike,” where Minamoto no Yoshitsune’s army landed. There is even an anecdote that Yoshitsune himself ate the fish paste and praised it highly when he saw fishermen on the beach at that time wrapping it around a green bamboo stick and roasting it. Tani Chikuwa Shoten has inherited the traditional taste that Yoshitsune highly praised, and is committed to producing it in such a way that it will never go out of style.

Exquisite craftsmanship produces kneaded products

Tani Chikuwa Shoten has been preserving the traditional taste of its products since ancient times, but it is not only recreating the taste of the past, but also constantly refining it. The amount of water added is adjusted by skilled craftsmen, and the fish paste is carefully and thoroughly ground to give it its original elasticity. If too much water is added, the elasticity is lost. On the other hand, if the amount of water is too little, the meat becomes hard and the original flavor cannot be brought out. The craftsmen’s exquisite adjustments are what make the fish paste so well-loved even today.

They are also particular about the ingredients. The amount of starch is kept to a minimum in order to bring out the best of the fish meat. The fishy smell peculiar to seafood is therefore suppressed, making it easy for anyone to eat.

The ease with which the fish paste can be eaten raw and immediately is another intrinsic quality of the fish paste.

Soul food of Tokushima made by a long-established restaurant

In addition to bamboo chikuwa, Tani Chikuwa Shoten also offers other soul food from Tokushima.

One of them is “fish cutlet. Fish cutlets are made by seasoning fish surimi such as swordfish, sea bream, and walleye pollock caught in nearby waters with curry powder, seasonings, and spices, then dipping them in a breadcrumb batter and deep frying them. Tsukuji Kamaboko invented it in 1955, and later other stores in Komatsushima began to make it with their original recipes, and now it has spread to become a specialty throughout Tokushima Prefecture. Although different stores add different ingredients and change the shape, they all share the same flavor of curry powder and other spices. The curry seasoning makes the katsu tasty even when cold, and it is loved as a snack, side dish, or side dish. In Tokushima Prefecture, the word “katsu” is said to refer to fish cutlets, not pork cutlets. Tani Chikuwa Shoten also sells chikuwa with sea bream, jakoten (fish cake), prawn tempura, sesame tempura, and assorted sets sold online, so you can enjoy the different flavors at home.

Tani Chikuwa Shoten’s skills are alive and well in these soul foods that are familiar to everyone. Tani Chikuwa Shoten will continue to pursue delicious food while preserving local flavors.

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