A refined, sophisticated flavor with a clean sweetness and subtle bitterness

Located in the southern part of Ehime Prefecture, Ainan Town is a major production center for Kawachi Bangan, which boasts the highest production volume in Japan. Known by several names, including Ainan Gold, Uwa Gold, and Miseikan, the Kawachi Bangan is sometimes called the “Japanese grapefruit” because its appearance and flavor resemble those of a grapefruit. It is a popular citrus fruit that is sweet without being cloying, featuring a pleasant tartness and a subtle bitterness, as well as a refreshing juiciness. Toshiyuki Yoshimoto, the owner of Yoshimoto Farm, works alongside his family to cultivate nine varieties of citrus, centered around the Kawachi Bangkan, including Amapei, Benimadonna, Setoka, Iyokan, Dekopon, and Satsuma mandarin.

The first-generation founder, who defied opposition from those around him to take on the unprecedented challenge of growing citrus fruits on flat land

In the Nanyo region of Ehime Prefecture—the heartland of citrus cultivation—most orchards consist of terraced fields built on steep slopes, but Mr. Yoshimoto’s orchard is located on flat, level ground. During World War II, people even joked that this land was so vast and flat it could be turned into an airfield. Seeing this, a man who grew mandarins in Yoshida Town—a leading citrus-growing area in Ehime Prefecture—suggested, “Why don’t you try planting mandarins here?” That suggestion became the origin of Yoshimoto Farm. “When my grandfather first set out to grow citrus, this was actually a sweet potato field. Apparently, people around him opposed the idea, asking, ‘Why plant citrus in a potato field?’ but he pushed through with it, and it worked out. That’s why we’re here today. It rains a lot here, and it’s warm. Since strong northwest winds blow, we first planted a windbreak. While it’s said that Satsuma mandarins dislike rain, we’ve come to realize that any type of citrus can be grown here if the soil is properly prepared. “To create soil that retains moisture well and drains efficiently—so that delicious citrus can grow—organic matter and microorganisms are essential,” says Mr. Yoshimoto.

Healthy, fertile soil created with the help of soil microorganisms and other living organisms

It’s said that what makes a citrus fruit delicious isn’t simply a matter of high or low sugar content; rather, the balance between sugar and acidity, along with the depth of flavor derived from minerals in the soil, is crucial. To achieve this, we need to encourage the growth of microorganisms that produce minerals in the soil. “We’ve been steadily improving the soil by adding organic fertilizers like compost and straw mulch. “Nowadays, there are compost centers where you can buy compost, but back in the day, we used to get livestock manure from livestock farmers, mix it with thatch and rice straw, and let it ferment—so it smelled absolutely terrible. As the soil becomes richer, earthworms start to multiply. Then moles come, followed by wild boars. If you see holes in the ground or traces of digging, that’s a sign the soil is in good condition. But if you spray herbicides, the microorganisms are drastically reduced.” Mr. Yoshimoto, who inherited the orchard his grandfather cleared from his father, has been adding compost for over 20 years, carefully preserving and nurturing the orchard’s soil.

The rich, delicious flavors nature provides

The Kawachi Bankan is a fascinating citrus fruit whose taste varies completely depending on when it is harvested. The Kawachi Bankan available in March, at the start of the harvest season, is juicy, fresh, and contains seeds. Strangely enough, around June—as the harvest season reaches its midpoint—the seeds disappear, and you can enjoy its ripe flavor and firm, plump texture until the end of the season around August. “The taste and texture change depending on the season, but each period has its own unique characteristics, and I take pride in producing fruit that people genuinely find delicious. At first, the taste was no different from mandarins grown elsewhere, but once I could tell the difference myself, my confidence grew. About ten years ago, customers started telling me, ‘These are delicious,’ and the number of repeat customers has been increasing.” Mr. Yoshimoto’s eyes shine as he speaks.

“It feels as though nature skillfully provides us with exactly what we crave in each season. In the cold winter, the warm-looking orange Satsuma mandarins are at their best, while in the hot summer, the refreshingly cool-looking yellow Kawachi Bangan oranges become delicious. Even when I’m worn out by the heat, eating a Kawachi Bangan with its juicy, crisp flavor gives me a boost of energy. It’s one of the citrus fruits you simply can’t do without in summer. Nowadays, we can get all kinds of fruits and vegetables year-round, but I wonder if the lack of a sense of the seasons is a good thing or a bad thing. I think seasonal produce has a lower environmental impact during production, and above all, it tastes better.”
At Yoshimoto Farm, they cultivate a well-balanced selection of citrus varieties, allowing them to harvest seasonal citrus throughout the year through a “variety relay.”

There is no end to the pursuit of growing delicious mandarins. It is a daily cycle of continuous effort.

Of course, there are challenges involved in creating fertile soil while minimizing the use of herbicides and chemical fertilizers. Just because we don’t want to use herbicides doesn’t mean we can let the orchard become overrun with weeds. Citrus cultivation that prioritizes soil quality is also a battle against weeds. However, weeding—which used to be done by hand—is evolving with the times, such as through the use of self-propelled mowers that automatically mow the orchard 24 hours a day, thereby saving labor. Incidentally, the introduction of these self-propelled mowers was only possible because the orchard is flat. It is a cultivation method that takes advantage of the terrain.
Summer watering is also a critical task that affects the growth and quality of the citrus fruit. While they irrigate using water pumped up from a source 3 km below or water drawn from the mountains, these supplies are limited. To make up for any shortfall, they draw water from the river or, starting around August when rice paddies no longer require water, utilize irrigation water, ensuring they water the orchards with the appropriate amount at the right time.

We use absolutely no herbicides; instead, we cut the grass by hand and return the clippings directly to the soil. Through years of this painstaking work, the fields have developed into a fluffy soil that retains moisture well while still draining effectively. As the roots spread healthily, the fruit trees absorb the necessary nutrients thoroughly, naturally increasing the sugar content of the fruit. Furthermore, creating an environment that utilizes grass helps prevent the proliferation of pests such as stink bugs. By tailoring the soil to the specific characteristics of each citrus variety, a balanced acidity enhances the sweetness, resulting in flavorful mandarins that leave you wanting more after just one bite. In recognition of these years of trial and error and the farm’s unwavering commitment to soil cultivation, Yoshimoto Farm received the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award in 2003.
“I’ve grown these mandarins with the conviction that I must protect this mandarin-growing region and revitalize it. I’m truly delighted that this has been recognized and that I’ve been able to receive such a wonderful award,” says Yoshimoto. “Since we’ve worked so hard to produce delicious mandarins up to this point, I want to pass on that expertise and know-how. I believe doing so will revitalize Ainan Town and give farmers a sense of purpose,” says Mr. Yoshimoto. The citrus fruits from Yoshimoto Farm, which are highly praised as “once you try them, you’ll want more,” continue to gain new fans with each passing year.

The post Kawachi Bangan from “Yoshimoto Farm”—rich and full-bodied flavor cultivated in fertile soil / Ainan Town, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Abalone is known as a high-end shellfish. In Iwate Prefecture, which boasts the largest catch of abalone in Japan, Gensho Ei Kitanihon Suisan has been engaged in land-based aquaculture for more than 40 years. The abalone, which is cultivated by devising unique water and feed, is named “Sanriku Jade Abalone” and branded as such. The abalone is characterized as “thick, tender, and tasty right down to the liver,” and has been well received by chefs and consumers.

Both natural and dried abalone are available. Iwate is famous for abalone

Abalone is a type of mollusk, of which there are about 70 species in the world. They are characterized by their crispy texture and are especially suitable for eating raw.

Iwate Prefecture, where Ezo abalone are caught, boasts the largest catch of wild abalone in Japan. The abalone grows slowly when the sea water temperature is low, but in the Sanriku region of Iwate Prefecture, the warm Oyashio Current flows in and stimulates the growth of the abalone, there is an abundance of seaweed such as kelp and wakame (seaweed is the food for abalone), and the fishing season is limited to two months from November to December to protect resources. Incidentally, since the Edo period, abalone caught in Yoshihama, Sanriku-cho, Ofunato City, in the prefecture had been dried and exported to China as “kippin-kampo” (dried abalone). In the Meiji period (1868-1912), the production method was improved, and the abalone was regarded as the world’s best quality in China.

Land-based aquaculture cultivates abalone with quality that rivals that of natural abalone.

Founded in 1982, Motoshoei Kitanihon Suisan is engaged in land-based cultivation of abalone in Ofunato City, which has long been famous for its abalone production. Katsuhiro Furukawa, a local fisherman, originally took up the challenge of land-based abalone aquaculture because he was concerned that the catch of natural abalone was declining year by year. The cultivation method was a matter of trial and error, and even if he tried the same method as the previous year, the abalone did not grow in the same way. Furthermore, even after finally establishing the aquaculture method, it was difficult to brand the product and differentiate it from natural products, and the product did not sell as well as expected. The turning point came when he received support from a private organization that assists companies in the six Tohoku prefectures and Niigata Prefecture. After the Great East Japan Earthquake of 2011, the business has been taken over by his son, President Toshihiro, and grandson, Sales Manager Shota, who produce 1.2 to 1.3 million pieces per year. They produce 1.2 to 1.3 million pieces per year. The company produces 1.2 to 1.3 million pieces per year, which is said to be one of the highest production volumes for land-based aquaculture in Japan.

Why are abalone soft and tasty right down to the liver?

There are two ways of cultivating abalone: “sea cultivation,” in which abalone are raised in fishponds at sea, and “land cultivation,” in which abalone are raised in facilities on land. The former is the most common method in Japan because it is less expensive in terms of equipment and technology, but there is a risk of natural disasters such as typhoons and theft. The latter, on the other hand, is more costly in terms of equipment, etc., but the growing environment, including water quality and feed, can be controlled, and stable production is possible throughout the year. Shota explains the advantages of land-based aquaculture, “In particular, the fact that we know the history of the feed should give consumers peace of mind.

One of the key points of the company’s land-based aquaculture is that the fish are raised in “seawater that percolates underground. This is seawater that passes through the sandy layer of the seafloor, which acts as a “filtration system” to purify the water. The company pumps this water up, filters it further, and then spills it into aquaculture tanks 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, so the tanks are always filled with fresh water and are clean. When abalone eat food, they take in sand and dirt, which accumulate in their livers, but the water in the company’s tanks is clean and free of sand, which is why Sanriku Jade Abalone is “delicious right down to the liver.

Also, when abalone grow up in the ocean with currents, they are more active, their muscles develop, and their meat becomes tough. This is the reason why Sanriku jade abalone are described as “softer than natural ones.

Seaweed pigments give the shells a beautiful jade color.

The second key point is the bait. In addition to seaweed, mainly kelp, the company also feeds the fish artificial feed in the form of pellets made from Japanese kelp powder, white fish powder, and other ingredients. Because most of the abalone currently available in Japan is produced in South Korea, Motomasauei Kitanihon Fisheries believes that, as long as it claims to be domestically produced, it should focus on high quality rather than production volume first. Believing that the quality of the abalone is directly related to the quality of the feed, the company uses completely additive-free feed to which no antibiotics or other substances are added. This resulted in abalone that are thick, tasty, and free of any unpleasant taste. Incidentally, the beautiful jade green color of the abalone’s shell, which is the origin of its name, is due to the coloring of the abundant kelp that is fed to the abalone. It is clearly different from natural abalone, which eat a variety of seaweed and have difficulty producing a green color in their shells. “Individual customers are pleased with the beauty and appearance of this product,” Shota proudly states.

Integrated production with in-house breeding and hatching

While many abalone farmers raise abalone from young, the company is unique in its integrated production process, in which it breeds and hatches abalone in-house. After hatching, the abalone are raised in a container with a “corrugated plate” with seaweed on it until they reach 7mm in length, after which they are kept in an aquarium and fed the aforementioned artificial feed. Although there are individual differences, abalone grow to 3 to 4 cm in one year, 5 to 6 cm in two years, 7 to 8 cm in three years, and 9 cm in four years. Incidentally, it takes five years for a natural abalone to grow to 7 cm, the size of an adult edible abalone, while the company’s abalone grows at a faster rate of three years. The main reason for this is that the company selects fast-growing abalone for breeding. Abalone that resemble their parents also grow fast, so even though they are not given growth hormones, they grow quickly. Furthermore, the company sells half of the 2 million larvae it hatches to local fishermen. The fishermen release them into the ocean and harvest the mature ones, thus helping to conserve resources.

The company’s main product is a three-year old abalone that measures 7 to 8 centimeters, but some customers want a different size, so the company sells the desired size in the desired quantity. Shota says that 90% of the abalone is shipped fresh to restaurants and hotels, and the rest is processed into “steam-frozen products” and shipped mainly to private customers.

Undeterred by forest fires, the company is working to revive the industry.

The rise in seawater temperature due to global warming over the past few years has made it easier for bacteria to proliferate in seawater, and the company is considering installing sterilization equipment and switching to “closed-circulation land aquaculture” to prevent abalone diseases caused by bacteria. The “closed-circulation land-based aquaculture” is a method of raising abalone by circulating artificial seawater in a tank, and has been under research and development for the past five years in cooperation with a major general contractor. This method eliminates the use of seawater containing bacteria and is also environmentally friendly since the water in the tank is no longer discharged into the sea by “pouring” it over the tank.

Just as such a new experiment was being planned, a forest fire in Ofunato City destroyed part of the company’s facilities in March of this year, wiping out the approximately 2.5 million abalone in the tank. The damage amounted to approximately 500 million yen. Even if the company resumes aquaculture with new equipment, it will take three years to grow the few remaining juvenile clams to a size where they can be shipped, and there will be no income during that time. Nevertheless, both Suehiro and Shota have not given up for the sake of their employees, customers, and the local community, and have even taken on the challenge of crowdfunding to rebuild their business. We will continue to wait and believe that the day will come when Sanriku jade abalone will once again be available on the market.

The post Sanriku Jade Abalone” is thick, tender, and tasty right down to the liver, produced by land-based aquaculture. Motoshoei Kitanihon Sanriku Fisheries / Ofunato City, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Sanriku is one of the most famous fishing grounds in the world. The coastal area of Iwate Prefecture is known for its rias coastline, a complex network of bays, where scallop cultivation is thriving. Yamakiichi Shoten, located in Heita, Kamaishi City, sells “swimming scallops” so fresh you can hear the sound from inside the box. By delivering quality scallops, the company is enhancing the value of Sanriku.

Kamaishi, “City of Iron and Fish,” rich in Sanriku seafood

Kamaishi City, located in the southern coastal area of Iwate Prefecture, faces the Pacific Ocean to the east and is home to the rich marine resources of the Sanriku fishing grounds. As the birthplace of modern steel manufacturing, Kamaishi has prospered as a “city of iron and fish.

Yamakiichi Shoten is located near the Hirata fishing port in Kamaishi City. The company was founded in 1989. The company was founded in 1989 by Yukiteru Yukiteru, the father of Takeichi Kimigahara, the managing director and the president, with the aim of selling seafood from Sanriku. At first, they mainly sold wakame seaweed, but one day they were asked by the fishermen’s cooperative to sell scallops since they had a surplus of scallops due to their inability to establish a sales channel.

He started selling scallops when the fishermen’s cooperative asked him to sell them because they had a surplus of scallops without establishing a sales channel.

Iwate scallops fetch a high price.

The bay, which is made up of the intricate topography of the Rias coastline, has calm waves, making it ideal for scallop cultivation. For this reason, wakame seaweed, scallops, and oysters are actively cultivated in Sanriku.

While Sanriku boasts the second largest production of wakame seaweed and the fifth largest production of oysters in Japan, scallops are the only fish cultivated widely from Hokkaido in the north to Miyagi in the south, with Iwate scallops accounting for a mere 1 percent share of the total. Iwate scallops account for a mere one percent of the total.
Iwate’s scallops compete with Hokkaido in terms of production volume, but Iwate’s scallops compete in terms of quality. If Hokkaido is like a major sushi chain, Iwate’s role is different, like a restaurant,” Goichi says.

Iwate scallops fetch the highest prices in the market. Although the amount of scallops produced is small, the quality of the scallops is highly valued in the market.

Cultivation differs by production area

In many areas, Hokkaido scallops are cultivated using the “jimaki method,” in which young scallops are released into the sea and raised in a near-natural state on the ocean floor. On the other hand, in Sanriku, Iwate, the “ear-suspension method,” in which holes are drilled in the shells and the scallops are suspended by ropes, is the most common method of cultivation. The method of cultivation is different.

In the “ear-suspension method,” the young shellfish are released into the sea and grow by swimming around on the ocean floor. While the “ground-shelling method” uses the “surface” of the seafloor to raise the young, Sanriku Iwate’s “ear-suspension method” takes advantage of the deep water terrain of the inner bay, or “depth,” to raise them while they are floating in the water. Scallops raised by the “ear suspension method” do not come in contact with sand on the seafloor, so there is no need for them to spit sand. This is also an advantage of the “ear-suspension” method.

In addition, “ear-hanging” scallops are suspended by ropes, making them easy for fishermen to manage. Sanriku Iwate scallops are more concerned with size and quality than number. Since growth is affected by barnacles, seaweed, and other attachments to the shells, the fishermen are particular about cleaning the shells and raising and lowering the ropes to adjust the depth of the sea water flow to a good level.

It is also important to keep a proper distance between scallops in order to grow large scallops. The scallops are hung at predictable intervals to prevent them from growing too densely together. This is also done to prevent each rope from becoming too heavy. If the rope becomes too heavy and the float drops, it may reach the seafloor. If the rope is allowed to float in the water but sucks up sand on the seafloor, it is a waste of time and energy. Ear-suspension intervals, shell cleaning, and float management. These are also the particulars of the scallop fishermen of Sanriku Iwate.

While scallops from Hokkaido take three to five years to grow to the same size for shipping, scallops from Iwate can grow to the same size in two years. This is partly the result of the Sanriku fishing grounds, where the Oyashio and Kuroshio currents mix, and partly the benefit of the mountains, thanks to the nutrients from the humus that flows from the mountains. Hokkaido scallops are the same size but have thicker shells, while Iwate scallops are the same size but have thinner shells. Iwate scallops, on the other hand, are the same size but have thinner shells and larger scallops and meat.

Iwate scallops have thinner shells and larger meat, resulting in a higher yield. Yamakiichi Shoten’s “swimming scallops,” which are delivered alive, are trusted by restaurants in Tokyo for their freshness.

What are “swimming scallops”?

Recipients of Yamakiichi Shoten’s “swimming scallops” are surprised to see the scallops “swimming in the water” and the shells flapping open and closed. They even have to be careful not to get their fingers caught when peeling the shells. For this reason, the “swimming scallops” come with a peeling spatula and instructions.

You can order scallops in sizes of 11 cm or larger. The largest scallops can be as large as 15 cm or more, and there are even “phantom scallops” that can be ordered. In addition to their size, scallops swimming in the sea are thick and crisp.

The scallops’ scallops are also the muscles that open and close the shell. This is why scallops that are healthy enough to swim also have crisp scallops. If you actually peel off the shell, you will see the scallop moving and shaking.

Thick scallops and tasty strings

Yamakiichi Shoten delivers high quality scallops, carefully selecting scallops that satisfy customers in terms of size, taste, and freshness.

As a result, people who have only eaten scallops bought at the supermarket are surprised at the texture and rich taste. Some of them even say, “I didn’t know scallops could taste this good.
When people think of scallops, they tend to think only of the scallops, but with our scallops, the strings are sweet and delicious as well. Depending on the season, you can also taste the ovaries. If you work carefully, you will be appreciated. I believe that,” Goichi says.

What was commonplace in the scallop production area was “something special.

When Goichi’s father, Koki, started selling scallops, he went to Tsukiji for market research. There, he was astonished to see scallops being sold under the name “live scallops. The scallops he saw were completely different from the fresh scallops he had seen in Kamaishi, and they were very weak.

We had grown up seeing scallops freshly landed in the morning, so we took it for granted,” he said. But what was natural for scallops in Sanriku was ‘special’ elsewhere,” he recalls. We realized that Sanriku scallops were “something of value.

I want to deliver Sanriku’s valuable scallops fresh.

The president went through a trial and error process of transportation and shipping methods in order to deliver scallops fresh. At first, he loaded trucks with scallops that had just been landed, but some of them died before delivery. They were supposed to be fresh, but they were not. He realized that in order to maintain the freshness of the scallops, it was important to create the same environment as when the scallops were alive.

Scallops are only as good as the water they are landed in. Each scallop is cleaned, sorted, and created stress-free in the fish tank. Immediately after they are landed, scallops are in a state of excitement, so we make sure they rest in the fish tank for at least one day to create the same conditions as when they are in the ocean, and let them relax before shipping.　In pursuit of freshness, Goichi has arrived at the “swimming scallops,” which are delivered alive.

The method is a trade secret, but the key is to “put yourself in the scallop’s shoes.

Overcoming the Great East Japan Earthquake

The “swimming scallops” spread throughout Japan by word of mouth because of their high quality. Then, in March 2011, the Great East Japan Earthquake hit. The Great East Japan Earthquake triggered a tsunami. Yamakiichi Shoten lost its office and fish tank.

The scallop fishermen who were close to Yamakiichi Shoten continued their production. Although Yamakiichi Shoten was able to continue doing business for a living even without the fish tank, Goichi said, “Our mission is to deliver good scallops from Sanriku. It is different to ask people to buy them as reconstruction assistance.” He sent letters to 30,000 customers and stopped shipping “swimming scallops” until the fish tank was rebuilt.

In July 2012, the fish tank was rebuilt and the “Swimming Scallops” were restored. Letters of encouragement and gratitude arrived from all over Japan.

We want to express our gratitude and convey the charm of the production area.

In 2020, he will open “Yosuke,” a restaurant with a direct sales shop. This is a place where people can taste “swimming scallops” while being close to the Sanriku Sea.

Because he has been delivering good scallops, he says, “Even after the earthquake, my customers never left and waited for me. I want to convey that gratitude. I also want to convey the charm of the scenery and people of the production area.

Enhancing the value of Sanriku and walking with Sanriku

On the wall of the restaurant “Yosuke” is a history of Yamakiichi Shoten, letters of encouragement received from all over Japan after the earthquake, and messages about scallops swimming in the sea.
The history of Yamakiichi Shoten is also the history of the scallop fishermen of Miyako, Kamaishi, and Ofunato.

Swimming Scallops” won the Director-General’s Award of the Small and Medium Enterprise Agency.

In 2023, “Swimming Scallops” won the Director-General’s Award of the Small and Medium Enterprise Agency in the “buyer’s room 2023.

The “Swimming Scallops” is a product made from scallops that are peeled and then flash-frozen. The scallops are large in size, rich in flavor, and plump in texture. The best quality is delivered in a paulownia wood box. Only 15% of the scallops used in this product are 45g in size. They are also very rare.

Sticking to Our Beliefs Even in Severe Circumstances

In recent years, global warming has caused sea water temperatures to rise in summer. The ocean environment, which used to be just right for scallops to live in, has changed drastically. As a result, some scallops do not survive the summer and die before being landed, leaving the aquaculture industry in a difficult situation. It is precisely because of this situation that Yamakiichi Shoten purchases at a high price the high-quality scallops that local producers grow with great care, thereby boosting the local industry.

Since my father’s generation, we have been striving to buy scallops at the highest price on the beach,” says Yamakiichi. Securing income for fishermen is important, but that alone will not last forever. I think it is also important to foster a sense of fulfillment and pride,” says Goichi. Sometimes, he would take the fishermen to restaurants that wholesale scallops in order to remind them of the deliciousness of the scallops he has raised. Today, the restaurant “Yosuke” plays a role in this process. The fishermen are rewarded when people who have tasted the “swimming scallops” at the restaurant tell others about their deliciousness and excitement, and spread the word about the scallops.

Even if the production volume decreases, we will continue to sell scallops one by one. Swimming scallops” are the very charm of Sanriku. That is why we want to deliver only the really good ones.

With this strong belief, the “Swimming Scallops” are released to the world. Their deliciousness is filled with the fisherman’s insatiable “persistence” and Yamakiichi Shoten’s desire for the development of the scallop industry in Sanriku.

The post We want to deliver fresh “swimming scallops” that tell the story of Sanriku’s potential. /Kamaishi City, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The Ariake Sea is one of Japan’s leading seaweed production areas. Surrounded by four prefectures in Kyushu, the inland sea is known for its fertility due to the nutrients flowing in from the Chikugo River and many other incoming rivers. Mr. Tetsuya Koga of Ariake Suisan in Okawa City, Fukuoka Prefecture, runs a laver cultivation business in such an Ariake Sea fishing ground. Through Mr. Koga’s integrated operations, from seaweed cultivation to processing and sales, we learn about the appeal of the Ariake Sea and the reason why seaweed is so delicious.

The Ariake Sea’s unique environment is ideal for seaweed cultivation

Crispy and thick. The moment you put it in your mouth, the aroma of the sea and its delicious flavor wafts into your nostrils. Everyone agrees that the seaweed from the Ariake Sea is different after all. Behind such a reputation, the Ariake Sea is said to be a “treasure sea” because of its blessed environment and the pride of its laver fishermen.

The Ariake Sea is the largest bay in northern Kyushu. Surrounded by the four prefectures of Nagasaki, Saga, Fukuoka, and Kumamoto, it is a closed sea with a narrow bay mouth that opens to the south. The tidal range (the difference between high and low tides) is the largest in Japan at 6 meters, and vast mudflats appear twice a day at low tide. The area is also famous for its unique ecosystem, which is inhabited by mudflats and other tidal flat organisms.

In addition, more than 100 rivers of various sizes, including the Chikugo River fed by Mt. Aso, flow into the Ariake Sea, mixing fresh water and seawater and creating a salinity suitable for seaweed cultivation. Combined with the large difference in tidal range that promotes photosynthesis necessary for laver growth, the sea is an ideal environment for laver cultivation, and in the 1960s it became one of the leading production areas in Japan. It is truly a sea of treasures. The quality of the seaweed produced in the Ariake Sea has also made it one of Japan’s most prized products.

Making the most of Japan’s largest difference in tidal range to grow laver

Nori cultivation in the Ariake Sea began in earnest around 1955. This was much later than in Tokyo Bay, where laver cultivation is said to have first begun in Japan during the Edo period (1603-1867). When seaweed cultivation began to flourish in the Ariake Sea, Koga’s grandfather started seaweed cultivation in Okawa City, Fukuoka Prefecture, on the eastern coast.

In the Ariake Sea, a cultivation method known as the “prop method” is used, which makes the most of the difference between the tidal range and the ebb and flow of the tide. As the tide recedes and the laver is exposed to the cold wind, at the same time it is dried in the sun, which increases its amino acid content. This increases the amino acid content of the laver, resulting in a more flavorful and aromatic laver. The nori fishermen adjust the height of the nori nets in 20-cm increments, monitoring the ocean conditions and adjusting the amount of time the nori is exposed to the sun and wind. They control the production of amino acids through photosynthesis and the degree to which the laver grows.

The seaweed cultivation season in the Ariake Sea is the cold season from fall to spring. Every year, around September, the seaweed is “seeded” (or “harvested”) by erecting poles and stretching seaweed nets with oyster shells with seaweed spores hanging from them over the surface of the sea from October. The first harvest occurs approximately one month later. The seaweed harvested at that time is called “ichibanzumi nori” (first harvested laver), a first-class product that is sold at a high price due to its soft texture and good flavor. Locals also call it “hana nori.

After the first harvest, the seaweed is harvested again with the same nets. After a few more harvests, the seaweed is re-harvested with the same net for the second harvest, and the harvest is repeated until around March or April of the following year.

Even within the same Ariake Sea, the conditions of the sea vary from place to place, depending on the climatic conditions of the year, the tidal currents in different locations, the depth of the sea, and other factors. In other words, the conditions have such an influence on the quality of the laver. However, it is customary to draw lots every year to determine where the nets will be set. Whether or not the seaweed can be cultivated in the desired location is a matter of luck.

However,” says Koga, ”the best fishermen show their skills by finding the best place to cultivate quality seaweed in a given environment. For example, if you hit a place where the tide is running fast, there is a good chance of growing good quality laver, but it is difficult and time-consuming to work on the boat, he says. In such cases, Koga uses his experience as a fisherman to prepare for the fishing season by making the fishing grounds sturdier than usual, and he uses the fishing grounds he has selected for that year to win the battle.

Development of original products after adversity

Koga, the third generation of Ariake Suisan, has been helping out in the family business since he was a student, and after graduating from college, his father encouraged him to pursue this career. At first I didn’t like the laver business and did it reluctantly. However, when I had the opportunity to sell my own laver as a product and interacted directly with customers, I strongly felt a responsibility for quality, wanting to live up to their expectations with delicious taste. It was a moment that changed the tide in my mind,” he recalls.

While most seaweed fishermen in the Ariake Sea were shipping all the seaweed they harvested to the fishermen’s cooperative, Ariake Suisan manufactures and sells its own original products. The background behind the creation of the products was changing social conditions and the deteriorating fishing environment.

From the 1990s onward, the wave of the collapse of the bubble economy swept over Kyushu. Furthermore, in 1997, the fishing environment in the Ariake Sea deteriorated due to the closure of the bay on the side of Isahaya City in Nagasaki Prefecture as part of the Isahaya Bay land reclamation project. The treasured sea was struck by a strange phenomenon. In addition, the mass-production and standardized product manufacturing had taken root among the producers, which aggravated the situation, and the industry was on the verge of a downward spiral.

It was during this time that Koga’s father, the previous generation, took on the challenge of creating a new type of laver. His strong desire to break out of the status quo drove him to take on a new challenge.

Unbound by conventional production methods, Koga’s father set out on a new frontier of laver deliciousness

Three years passed with repeated failures and advances. After three years of repeated failures and progress, the company patiently continued to improve the seaweed growing environment and dryers, and the result was “Shisai. The first harvested laver is dried as it is picked without cutting. The appeal of this product is its crunchy texture and softness that instantly melts in the mouth. Another major feature is that the nourishment, flavor, and minerals of the laver itself have not been lost.

Shisai” can be eaten as a snack, as a topping for pasta or ochazuke (rice with green tea), or as an ingredient in soups because of its easy dissolving properties. When used in cooking, it can be added as a finishing touch to maximize the original flavor of the seaweed. It can be arranged in a wider range of ways than conventional ita nori, and it is fun to come up with nori recipes.

Aromatic baked ita-nori is also available

In addition to the original “Shisai,” the company also sells “Moshishi,” a sheet of dried laver that is made by straining the first harvest of laver like Japanese paper and baking it with a delicious aroma. The crispy texture, aroma, and sweetness that wafts through the nose can be enjoyed simply by wrapping it around salted musubi (rice crackers).

The company’s products have gradually spread by word of mouth and have now grown to have fans all over Japan. Mr. Koga himself is able to hear directly from customers through his products, which is a source of inspiration for his daily work.

What does a laver fisherman see for the future of the Ariake Sea?

In recent years, seaweed fishermen in the Ariake Sea have been suffering. Due to a lack of nutrients in the sea caused by low rainfall and red tides, the fall and spring seasons of 2022 resulted in a record crop failure. Koga, who had hoped to make a comeback this year, is disappointed that the 2023 season will be the second consecutive poor harvest.

Until now, laver cultivation has been strongly supported by the inherent power of nature. In addition to simply hoping for blessed rains, Mr. Koga is also looking for ways in which people can help to overcome the current situation. One of these is environmental preservation activities.

He is putting his efforts into cleaning up the Chikugo River, saying, “The rich nutrients from the forests flow into the river and nurture the sea. In addition, various other efforts are being made throughout the Ariake Sea, such as efforts to increase the number of plankton-eating bivalves, as the plankton blooms in large numbers deplete the nutrients in the sea. Once again, we make a wish for the next season.

Furthermore, with the desire to develop seaweed cultivation in the Ariake Sea in a sustainable manner as a local industry, the company disseminates information via SNS, opens stalls at events such as marche, and holds workshops. In order to spread awareness of work in the sea and Okawa City, and to contribute to the local community, he also focuses on providing work experience, such as seaweed harvesting, for those who wish to move to Fukuoka. Koga’s duties as a nori fisherman continue not only in the sea, but also outside of the sea.

The Ariake Sea has been called a “treasure sea” since ancient times. We hope that the Ariake Sea will continue to deliver the seaweed that supports Japan’s dining table. Mr. Koga’s challenge will continue in order to continue to be a “treasure” of Japan.

The post Bringing seaweed to your table from the hands of seaweed fishermen. Tetsuya Koga, Ariake Suisan / Okawa City, Fukuoka Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kutchan Town in Hokkaido is home to the Niseko area, which attracts many tourists in winter in search of high-quality powder snow. In summer, the underground springs flowing beneath Mount Yotei create a stunning landscape of potato flower fields stretching as far as the eye can see. In this potato-farming town, Honma Matsuzo Shouten’s premium potato “540” is gaining a reputation. We spoke with Honma Hiroki, the fourth-generation owner who works closely with the farmers.

The climate of Kutchan, where potatoes grow well in Hokkaido

The town of Kutchan, located in Abuta District, Hokkaido, is surrounded by the Niseko Mountains, which are famous for the stratovolcano Yotei-zan, nicknamed “Ezo Fuji” for its beautiful conical shape, and the volcano Niseko Annupuri within the Otaru Coast National Park. Kutchan, with its inland climate characterized by large daily temperature fluctuations, is also one of Hokkaido’s heaviest snowfall areas. While spring and summer are characterized by mild, sunny weather, winter brings dry air from the northwest Japan Sea, which absorbs moisture and forms snow clouds.

Snow clouds formed on the Japan Sea side cross the Niseko mountain range and collide with Mount Yōtei, transforming into powder snow that drifts down onto Kuchan. This bountiful gift from the sky, rich in minerals, continues to fall, accumulating to a total of 8 to 9 meters annually. The snow melts into clear streams flowing from the foot of Mount Yotei, not only nourishing the land but also serving as insulation. Thanks to the accumulated snow, the soil remains unfrozen, and in spring, the minerals from the snow seep into the soil, further enriching the land. Indeed, Kutchan boasts an ideal environment for growing root vegetables and potatoes.

Kutchan’s potatoes, primarily for fresh consumption

“Potatoes are categorized into fresh and processed varieties, and nearly all of those grown in Kutchan are for fresh consumption. The main varieties are those you commonly hear about, such as Baron and Makein, which are widely available in supermarkets. As a production area, Kutchan is among the top in the country,” says Hiroki Honma, the fourth-generation owner of Honma Matsuzo Shouten, a vegetable wholesaler that has been in the town for over 100 years. “The cultivation area is approximately 1,200 hectares (about 256 Tokyo Domes), the largest in Hokkaido. Our ancestors went through many trials and errors to reach this point. I’ve heard that it was a very difficult process.”

Honma Matsuzo Shouten, walking alongside the community

Potato cultivation in Kutchan began in 1892 (Meiji 25) during the pioneer era. One of the pioneers, Manabe Hamazaburo, started cultivating potatoes, and later, Yanagihara Torazo focused on selecting potatoes with better shapes. They conducted extensive research to preserve high-quality potato seeds for future generations. The first generation of Honma Matsuzo Shouten, Honma Matsuzo, moved from Niigata to Kutchan around the beginning of the Taisho era, when the reputation for “tasty potatoes” grew and shipments to Honshu began. Since then, rather than owning farmland, the company has purchased crops grown by local farmers and stored them in warehouses, serving as a “producer wholesaler” under government guidance, shipping to designated locations. Currently, the company sells harvested crops under the “Kutchan-produced” brand.

“During the early days of Hokkaido’s settlement, when securing one’s own food was a top priority, potatoes became an important crop because they could grow well even in the cold climate where rice could not thrive. This background of cultivating and consuming potatoes as a staple food is one of the reasons why so many potatoes are grown for consumption in Kutchan,” he explains.

Additionally, the Hakodate Main Line, which runs along the Sea of Japan coast from Sapporo to Hakodate, had a freight station, and there was a shipping route from Hakodate to Aomori via freight trains, which led to Kutchan, located at the foot of the Sapporo Mountains, becoming a hub for the distribution of heavy goods.

“As a result, Kutchan came to play a significant role as Japan’s kitchen, delivering potatoes to households across the country, including Tokyo,” says Honma. Nearly 80% of Japan’s potatoes are produced in Hokkaido, and Kutchan has become a major production area.

As a major potato-producing region, Kutchan and Hokkaido have been required to use large machinery to efficiently produce large quantities of agricultural products in order to fulfill their role as Japan’s food base, and they have responded to this demand as a production area.

“However, given the historical background in which large-scale agriculture similar to that in Europe and the United States has been promoted as a major production area, we believe that the era of simply producing large quantities is coming to an end. What is needed in this new era is to deliver high-quality potatoes that can only be enjoyed in this region to everyone.”

As a vegetable wholesaler, the company recognized that enhancing product value and brand development were key to supporting farmers and regional development.

The birth of “540,” a potato aged for an extended period in snow cellars.

The potatoes sold by Honma Matsuzo Shouten are certified as “specialty cultivated agricultural products” by a third-party organization, with strict limits on the use of fertilizers and pesticides, regardless of variety. They are marked with a distinctive red brand logo and are known as “Kutchan Potatoes.”

The ‘Baron’ variety features the distinctive aroma and fluffy texture of potatoes, while the ‘Touya’ variety is larger with a yellow flesh. The “Sayaka” variety has a refreshing and mild flavor, while the “Kitakamui” variety has a delicate texture and strong sweetness. The “Kitaakari” variety, also known as “Kuri Potato,” has a fluffy texture. These five varieties are sold under the “Kutchan Brand.”

Additionally, six years ago, the company began selling a premium potato called ‘540,’ which is made by aging Kutchan potatoes in a snow cellar for an extended period. Harvested potatoes are cooled using snow for 540 days (approximately one and a half years), stored in a warehouse with constant temperature and humidity, and left to rest. Through this prolonged aging process, some of the potato’s starch breaks down, and sugarization progresses, explains Mr. Honma.

“Potatoes stored under controlled temperature and humidity conditions begin to lose their mineral content after about two years, but not quite reaching three years. Potatoes naturally convert starch into sugar, which then becomes acidic, but through rigorous temperature control, they are preserved in a state where the sugar remains, maintaining their sweetness. They do not sprout or rot.”

Facing the reality of Japanese consumption

“The birth of ‘540’ was truly a series of coincidences,” says Mr. Honma. Born and raised in Kutchan, Mr. Honma actually worked in a Tokyo market until 14 years ago. ”Having a perspective close to producers, including my family, I gained insight into how the crops I had cultivated were consumed while working in the Tokyo market. In a way, it was a glimpse into the reality of consumption.”

The demand for Hokkaido-produced potatoes peaks from August to September during the harvest season and continues until around Golden Week in May. However, once May passes, Hokkaido-produced potatoes are no longer in demand. This is because potatoes from Nagasaki, the birthplace of potatoes in Japan, which were introduced along with firearms, enter the market as they reach their peak season.

Potatoes from Nagasaki and other regions like Chiba, where the season is in full swing, flood the market, creating a frenzy of demand. Honma understands that, given Japan’s north-south geography, it’s inevitable that the peak season varies by region. However, he has always questioned why seasonal produce, regardless of taste, takes precedence and dominates the market.

“I understand that seasonal vegetables are delicious. However, root vegetables in particular develop a different kind of flavor when they are allowed to rest. I felt a dilemma because this was not understood,” he explains.

Upon returning to his hometown, Mr. Honma asked his father, Hideo, who was the president at the time, if he could sell potatoes even during the summer. While there was already a technique for storing potatoes using snow, the snow would melt. So, he had a refrigerator suitable for storage built and stored only the necessary amount. New potatoes have thin skins, contain a lot of moisture, and are very soft. Due to these characteristics, many chefs find them difficult to handle. While he had experimented with selling them to chefs who did not prefer the characteristics of new potatoes, he had not considered commercializing them.

An indispensable ingredient in chefs’ potato recipes

One day, when Mr. Honma brought some potatoes stored in his warehouse to the long-established Japanese restaurant “Naniwa-tei” in Sapporo, the owner exclaimed, “What is this? I’ve never tasted potatoes like this before!” When he tasted them, the potatoes, which had been stored in the warehouse for about two years, were sweet like sweet potatoes and had a distinctly different flavor from conventional potatoes.

Honma had simply brought the potatoes, which had been stored in the corner of a refrigerator, out of curiosity. Captivated by the accidental sweetness that developed without any conscious effort to preserve them, the chef at Naniwa-tei recommended selling them. The name “540” comes from the fact that the potatoes undergo a maturation period of over 540 days from harvest.

Carefully aged to develop a unique sweetness unlike any other, “540” was first served at local hotels such as “Chalet Ivy Hirafu” and “Park Hyatt Niseko HANAZONO” in Niseko. It quickly gained popularity, with inquiries pouring in from restaurants across the Kanto region, including Tokyo, and as far south as Okinawa. However, due to the need for meticulous temperature control, it is only available through a referral system, and general sales are not available to customers without a connection to Kutchan.

We aim to increase the number of fans of Kutchan-produced products through these appealing processed goods.

The pioneers of the Meiji era who introduced potato farming to Kutchan. Additionally, the subsequent development of the Niseko area as a resort destination is another major factor contributing to the unique character of Kutchan’s potatoes, according to Mr. Honma.

Resort visitors who come to Niseko specifically to visit Mr. Honma and tell him, “It was delicious” and “Thank you,” are a source of inspiration. Even though the resort is the main purpose of their visit, the fact that there are many people who interact with each other through potatoes is a unique charm that other potato-producing areas do not have.

I would like people to see the fields where potatoes are actually grown, experience the environment of the production area, and feel the people who are involved in these potatoes. In the future, I am eager to create processed products that utilize the “540” brand. For example, if there are items that can be taken home as souvenirs or provide a tangible experience, they could serve as a tool to make the production area feel more accessible.

“Just as Kutchan is known as a resort destination, we hope that more people will visit as a production area associated with the ‘540’ brand,” he says with conviction.

The post The deep snow of Kutchan, Hokkaido, creates a special sweetness—Honma Matsuzo Shoten’s potatoes “540” / Kutchan Town, Hokkaido first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Farmed eel that tastes better than natural eel approved by professionals.

Natural eel tastes better than farm-raised eel. Not only eels, but many people may have such an assumption. It is true that only about 3% of all natural eels are sold in the market. This is probably due to its rarity. However, there is a “Taido Shoten” farmed eel in Kagoshima, which is said by eel professionals all over the country to be “better than natural eel”.

Eel is one of the foods that have been familiar to the people since ancient times, and the history of eel farming dates back to the Meiji period (1868-1912), starting in Fukagawa, Tokyo. However, the ecology of the Japanese eel, especially its spawning grounds, has long been a mystery, and only in 2009 was the spawning ground identified as being near the West Mariana Sea territory in the Pacific Ocean, 200 km from Japan. After hatching from eggs and becoming fry, they migrate to the Pacific Ocean, metamorphose into fry, and head for the waters around East Asia.

These fry are called “glass eels,” and in Japan they migrate up rivers in Kagoshima, Miyazaki, Kochi, Shizuoka, and other areas. This is why eel farming began to flourish in Kagoshima Prefecture around 1965. Currently, the prefecture ranks first in Japan in terms of eel production. It accounts for 40% of the domestic share of farmed eels. Among them, Soo County, located on the east side of the Osumi Peninsula, is the top producer in the prefecture. In the scenic countryside of Osaki Town, Soo County, there is Taido Shoten, which is supported by famous eel restaurants nationwide. Taido Shoten is a distributor that delivers the eel it grows to chefs and customers all over the country. In the warehouse, selected and prized eels were waiting to be shipped.

The secret of brand-name eels lies in the groundwater.

The reason why eel farming is prosperous in Shibushi is that eel fry (baby eels) are often caught in the sea around here. In addition, the abundance and cleanness of the water and the climate also have an influence. We have the best environment for raising eels,” said Keiichi Yokoyama, representative of Taido Shoten.
The abundant groundwater is filtered for many years by the Shirasu earth from the Kirishima mountain range. The reason why the eel selected by Taido Shoten is free from any odor or bad taste is because of this water. With safety and security as their motto, they do not use any feed containing antibiotics and carefully select only those eels that have been carefully raised according to their growth.

There have been some brand-name eels in the past, but they were rarely sold directly by the producer or communicated with the chef. But that would mean that even if we produced really good products, they would not be properly evaluated. That’s why I wanted to create a form of sales where I could see the product from start to finish.

There is no reason why eels raised carefully by thoroughly controlling water temperature and water quality 24 hours a day, 365 days a year should not be delicious. It is worth trying Taido Shoten’s eel, which natural eels run away with their tails between their legs.

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

国内で唯一幻の品種を養豚している牧場 ふくどめ小牧場/ 鹿児島県鹿屋市 – NIHONMONO 国内にはここにしかないとも言われる希少な品種を扱う養豚から、本場ドイツで修業した職人によるこだわりの食肉加工、そして食卓に届ける販売までを一貫して手掛けるふくど…

The post Yokoyama-san’s “Eel” “Taido Shoten”, which is more delicious than natural eel. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The sea where baby oysters grow

Oysters are the fruit of the Sea of Sanriku. And Mangokuura in Ishinomaki-shi is the center of oyster production. We visited Suenaga Kaisan Co., Ltd. During our visit, we had visited Shin Hatakeyama in Kesennuma. The oysters he was cultivating were for shipping, the ones that are consumed in homes. Suenaga Kaisan also makes oysters for shipping as well as processed oysters, but most importantly, they cultivate ”seed oysters (baby oysters)”.
Seed oysters are babies of cultured oysters. There are only a few seas in the world where seed oysters are available. Mangokuura is one of them. The seed oysters grown in Mangokuura are shipped not only within Japan, but to France and the US where they are cultured.

What are seed oysters?

Can you imagine what seed oysters look like? We couldn’t, so we asked Kanji Suenaga president and representative director of Suenaga Kaisan.
First, about 50 scallop shells are attached to a rope. During the spawning season of oysters in July, the ropes are lowered into the sea so that the oyster eggs floating in the sea will stick to the scallop shells and begin to grow there. After about three months, they are thinned to leave only good oysters, and are lowered into the sea again to grow. Finally, the seed oysters are ready.

The seed oysters are then shipped to the oyster farmers, where the farmers will hang the oyster beds from the rafts in the sea allowing them to fully grow for shipping. For a detailed description of cultivation rafts, please refer to the article about Hatakeyama in Kesennuma. According to Hatakeyama, Suenaga Kaisan （水産ではなく海産のはず） is a master of seed oyster culture.
Cultivating seed oysters by using scallop shells to draw the floating oyster eggs. It definitely requires being in tune with nature.
”Oyster farmers, just like fishermen, don’t work according to the calendar, but the waxing and waning of the moon, the lunar calendar. Tides of the sea are important.”, said Suenaga.

Sanriku Coast was too blessed.

Suenaga told us an interesting story. The legend has it that the oysters of this area were brought by tortoises carrying them on their backs. The coastal area of Sanriku has been blessed with so much from the sea that such a legend was born.

”Sanriku is so rich in marine products. We can do anything. If we can’t succeed with oysters, we can try ”wakame” farming. If ”wakame” isn’t successful, then we can try ”hoya”. It doesn’t work like that in the other coastal areas of Miyagi. Either the waves are too rough, or the sea is too shallow. You cannot farm if the sea is too shallow. Sanriku has a deeply indented rias coastline, where the sea is deep and suitable for marine farming.” said Suenaga. ”But,” he continued,
”I think we were too blessed. Everything was easy. We could live off the blessings of the sea. We didn’t try to move ahead. When the fishing industry in general began to decline, we couldn’t keep up with it. That’s why we are now concentrating on food processing as well.”

The seed oysters of Mangokuura miraculously survived the devastating Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011.
One of his goals is to build a stable industry in addition to oyster farming. Suenaga was already on his way to his next challenge.

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