Iseki Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. is one of Japan’s leading agricultural machinery manufacturers. Its founder, Kunisaburō Iseki, was born in Mima Village, Kita-Uwa District (now Uwajima City), a rural area known for producing delicious rice (Mima rice).

I want to free farmers from grueling labor

Ehime Prefecture is the birthplace of the company’s founder, Kunisaburō Iseki. The “ISEKI Dream Gallery” in Matsuyama City showcases the history and technology of Iseki Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. From a young age, Kunisaburō Iseki was involved in the family farming business. Farm work at that time was backbreaking labor, and he is said to have harbored a strong desire to “free farmers from grueling labor.” Amid an era of transition from manual labor to mechanization, driven by his passion for creating better products, he founded “Iseki Agricultural Tools Trading Company” in Matsuyama City in 1926. The first piece of agricultural machinery he developed was a “fully automatic rice hulling machine.” The company continued to contribute to the mechanization and modernization of agriculture, evolving into a business that supported postwar food production increases and Japan’s period of rapid economic growth.

Manufacturing from Matsuyama That’s Shaping the Future of Agriculture

In 1936, the company established a factory in Matsuyama City. Since then, it has developed and produced numerous agricultural machines that contributed to the mechanization and modernization of agriculture, supporting postwar food production increases and the period of rapid economic growth. In 1978, the Matsuyama Factory began production of large tractors. This factory, with its long history, continues to serve as the manufacturing division of the ISEKI Group’s agricultural machinery business under the name “ISEKI M&D Co., Ltd.” It serves as the core manufacturing hub within the ISEKI Group, providing manufacturing support for initiatives such as “Smart Agriculture” and “Environmentally Sustainable Agriculture.”

“As we transition from manual labor to mechanization, we want to build machinery that is truly useful. We continue to uphold our founder’s philosophy of ‘Let’s make quality products,’” says Masahiro Sakai, President and CEO of ISEKI M&D Co., Ltd.

The agricultural machinery manufactured by ISEKI M&D ranges widely from models for small-scale farms to high-output 130-horsepower tractors. The company handles a diverse lineup of products, including lawn mowers used overseas and ride-on maintenance machines that perform tasks such as weed control, pesticide and fertilizer application, and soil moisture retention. Because the company has established an integrated in-house production system—from parts machining to painting and assembly—it can quickly respond to the demand for a wide variety of products in small quantities, leading to the creation of products that are easy for farmers to use and affordable.

Smart Agriculture and an Integrated System for Vegetable Production Mechanization

The reality facing the agricultural sector is harsh. Due to the aging workforce and a shortage of successors, the number of workers is steadily declining. Tasks such as harvesting, planting, and crop management must be carried out intensively over short periods in accordance with the seasons and weather, making it impossible for the limited workforce to keep up. What is needed in these fields is agricultural machinery technology that can reliably ensure crop yields with minimal labor.

ISEKI is focusing on “Smart Agriculture,” which balances agricultural efficiency with environmental conservation. By leveraging the latest technologies—such as IT, sensors, GPS, and robotics—to enable operations tailored to crop conditions and field characteristics, the company achieves high productivity even with a limited workforce.

ISEKI also develops and manufactures tractors and robotic tractors equipped with smart agriculture technology. For example, GPS-based positioning assists tractors in maintaining a straight course within the field. This eliminates the need for operators to make frequent, precise steering adjustments, thereby reducing fatigue. Furthermore, robotic tractors contribute to improved operational efficiency by working in coordination with humans under human supervision.

In addition, the company developed “variable rate fertilization technology” in 2015, which adjusts fertilizer application rates based on field conditions. By minimizing fertilizer waste while reducing variations in crop growth and leading to stable quality and yields, the company aims to achieve both reduced environmental impact and improved productivity.

Around 1990, as mechanization advanced, the number of labor hours required for rice cultivation fell to one-fourth of what it had been in 1960, while the need for labor-saving measures in vegetable farming also grew. Compared to rice farming—where an integrated mechanization system involving rice transplanters, combine harvesters, and dryers was well established—vegetable farming at that time lagged behind in mechanization, creating a strong demand for reduced physical labor and labor savings. ISEKI is a company that has focused on developing an “integrated vegetable farming mechanization system,” beginning with the commercialization of the fully automatic vegetable transplanter “Nauel PV101.”

In fact, vegetable farming is characterized by significant regional variations in cultivation methods. Take green onions, for example: even when referred to simply as “long green onions,” the varieties and cultivation methods differ from region to region. There are also regional variations in ridge width and planting spacing, and ISEKI has developed machinery that allows farmers to adjust these settings to suit their specific region.

　Furthermore, the company has established an “Integrated Vegetable Production Mechanization System” by offering a full range of machinery and supplies compatible with a wide variety of crops, including daikon radishes, onions, cabbage, broccoli, taro, carrots, lettuce, edamame, green onions, and sweet potatoes. This system enables the consistent mechanization of the entire vegetable production process—from seedling cultivation to planting, management, harvesting, and sorting. This enables flexible adaptation to the production of multiple varieties in small quantities and to differences in growing conditions across regions, allowing for efficient farming operations with consistent quality even with a small workforce.

100 Years Since Our Founding: Connecting the Future of Agriculture Through Technology and People

Through continuous technological development aimed at solving real-world challenges on the farm, ISEKI holds approximately 2,200 patents, including technologies related to the development of agricultural machinery such as tractors, rice transplanters, and combine harvesters. The technical expertise the company has cultivated supports the evolution of smart agriculture and is transforming on-farm work into a more reliable and less burdensome process.

The new models manufactured by ISEKI M&D are a prime example of this. The company is also actively engaged in smart agriculture that leverages digital technologies such as GPS. These technologies support the agricultural know-how cultivated through many years of experience. For example, by having machines assist with precise tasks that skilled operators once performed intuitively, even less experienced operators can more easily perform work to a consistent standard. By using digital technology to pass down agricultural techniques—which have traditionally been handed down from person to person—to the next generation, the company is helping to address the shortage of workers and support the realization of sustainable agriculture.

Due to factors such as a declining workforce in the agricultural sector and the impacts of climate change, the number of workers on farms is decreasing. Improving efficiency and environmental considerations are essential. With the government’s “Green Food System Strategy” providing a tailwind, there is a growing demand for a shift toward sustainable agriculture, including labor-saving measures and organic farming.

ISEKI will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2026 and, as a company proud of its long history of technology and experience, is committed to addressing these challenges. The company develops large-scale, cutting-edge, field-crop, and eco-friendly agricultural machinery that balances labor-saving efficiency with environmental conservation. By expanding its range of eco-friendly technologies—including electrification—ISEKI supports highly productive and sustainable agriculture through high-quality agricultural machinery.

Furthermore, the company is dedicated to nurturing the next generation of engineers. We provide hands-on opportunities in design, manufacturing, and cutting-edge technology to hone problem-solving and decision-making skills, while also emphasizing the importance of learning from the technical expertise and wisdom cultivated over many years. The capabilities of the people and technology nurtured in this way directly contribute to agricultural efficiency and environmental consideration, supporting a more sustainable and prosperous agricultural sector. This approach to manufacturing—woven together by technology and people—will continue to bring new possibilities to agriculture.

The post Creating the Machinery of Our Dreams: A 100-Year-Old Company’s Vision for Agriculture and the Future. “Iseki Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. / ISEKI M&D Co., Ltd.” / Matsuyama City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Otawara City in Tochigi Prefecture ranks first in the prefecture for rice production. Among its producers, Masahide Akutsu of Akutsu Farm boasts a track record of awards at the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition” and has received numerous other accolades, including certification as “Toyo Rice World’s Best Rice 2022.” Given that rice from Tochigi Prefecture is not particularly well-known, why is the rice produced by Mr. Akutsu so highly regarded?

Land Suitable for Rice Production: Otawara City

Otawara City is located on a vast alluvial fan in the Nasu region of northern Tochigi Prefecture, known as “Nasuno-gahara.” It is home to the Nasu Irrigation Canal, one of Japan’s three major irrigation canals. The water flowing from the Nasu mountain range is groundwater rich in minerals. Thanks to this abundant water source, the area is well-suited for rice cultivation.

Of course, it’s not just about the water. The area has fertile soil, and its climate—with sufficient temperature and sunlight in summer to promote rice growth and winter cold that suppresses pest infestations—combined with a flat terrain that facilitates water management and allows for the development of large-scale rice paddies, has made it a prime rice-growing region.

The name “Otawara City” is said to derive from “O-tawara” (large rice bale), reflecting the fact that this has long been a region with a thriving rice production industry.

Rice from Tochigi Prefecture: High on the Rice Production Rankings, Yet Little Known

According to data on “Crop Conditions and Yields of Paddy and Upland Rice by Season (by Agricultural Region and Prefecture Nationwide)” released by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries in 2021, Tochigi Prefecture ranks eighth nationwide in rice production by yield. However, rice produced in Tochigi is not particularly well known. This is because the prefecture capitalizes on its proximity to the Tokyo metropolitan area, with rice for commercial use being the mainstay of its production.

Commercial rice refers to rice used in restaurant chains, convenience store bento boxes, and school lunches—not the rice sold for home use in supermarkets and other retail outlets. Although we have many opportunities to consume it, we rarely see the place of origin or brand name when eating it, which makes it difficult for “Tochigi rice” to gain widespread recognition.

In fact, according to 2017 data from the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, Tochigi ranked first among the top 10 prefectures with the highest proportion of sales for commercial use, with nearly 70 percent of its rice sales going to that sector.

A region that isn’t well-known but produces delicious rice

Mr. Akutsu grows rice in this environment. Since his family ran a farm, he began working in agriculture after graduating from college—and it’s been about 20 years since then. He has now succeeded his father, with whom he currently grows rice, becoming the fifth-generation farmer.

The turning point came about eight years ago when he entered the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Contest” for the first time.

Although Mr. Akutsu was aware of the competition’s existence, he had never entered it until then. However, he says he had a firm confidence that “the rice from this region is delicious”—and above all, that “the rice from my own farm, which I eat every day, is even more delicious!” So, upon learning that anyone could enter, he recalls thinking, “If I enter, maybe I’ll win a prize?” and submitted his entry with a lighthearted attitude.

However, in 2016—his first year of entry—at the “18th Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition,” he immediately won the Special Excellence Award in the “Prefectural Representative Rice Championship” category. He was particular about the Koshihikari he grew and had confidence in it. While he thought, “See? If I enter, I can win after all,” he also sensed the limits of achieving a top ranking with “Koshihikari.”

This is because Koshihikari is the most widely cultivated variety in Japan, so the number of entries in the competition is overwhelmingly high, with producers from all over the country flocking to submit their rice. Just as he was feeling that “it would be difficult to aim any higher with Koshihikari,” he began searching for “something else” on his own—and that’s when he discovered “Yudai 21.”

My Encounter with “Yudai 21,” a Variety Developed at Utsunomiya University

Around that time, the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition” began awarding the Gold Prize in the International General Category to a variety called “Yudai 21.”

Yudai 21 is a rice variety developed at a national university; it was created over a period of 20 years from a rice plant discovered by chance at the farm affiliated with the Faculty of Agriculture at Utsunomiya University in Tochigi Prefecture, and was registered as a variety in 2010. Although it is considered difficult to cultivate—as the plants grow tall and are prone to lodging, and fertilizer and water management require delicate care and technical skill—it truly shines in environments where careful attention can be given, such as in mid-mountainous areas, and is a variety capable of achieving yields and quality on par with or exceeding those of Koshihikari. Furthermore, Yudai 21 has a strong sweetness and a rich, distinctive flavor, leading us to intuitively recognize its potential for acceptance among general consumers. Consequently, we decided to begin cultivating Yudai 21 the following year (2017).

Initiatives Undertaken Before the Creation of Yudai 21

Even before establishing Yudai 21, Mr. Akutsu had become increasingly determined to “grow rice without using pesticides” and had been working toward pesticide-free cultivation. He says this effort was inspired by his desire to help alleviate his family’s allergies.

Pesticide-free cultivation—which involves the arduous task of weeding—took some time to gain the understanding of his father, the previous generation of farmers, but by starting with a small plot of land, he gradually earned his father’s approval.

Yudai 21 is also adopting pesticide-free farming practices

Given this background, Yudai 21 began cultivation on 3 tanbo (roughly the size of 12 tennis courts) without using any pesticides.

The farm gradually increased its production, and by the fourth year of cultivation, it was growing Yudai 21 on more than half of the approximately 4 hectares dedicated to rice for staple food consumption.

Why Is “Yudai 21,” Made by Mr. Akutsu, So Delicious?

Yudai 21 is characterized by its large, glossy grains and attractive appearance. When tasted, it is praised for its rich umami flavor and well-balanced taste, with a sweetness that becomes more pronounced the more you chew.

Demand has been growing year by year as people who have actually tasted it say it’s “delicious,” and Akutsu Farm is reportedly expanding its cultivation area every year.

Why “Akutsu Farm” Was Chosen, Even Among Highly Rated Varieties

As mentioned earlier, Otawara City, where Akutsu Farm is located, is an ideal region for growing rice. It is said that when nighttime temperatures drop, the rice absorbs nutrients that enhance its flavor and transports them to the ears.

Akutsu Farm is surrounded by mountains and sits at an elevation of 200 meters. The significant temperature difference between day and night is believed to influence the flavor. Additionally, water is drawn into the rice paddies from the nearby Sabi River; for about 4 km upstream from Akutsu Farm, this river flows underground. As a result, the water can be drawn into the paddies while it is still cold, and this low water temperature helps lower the nighttime air temperature, which is said to further enhance the flavor.

Furthermore, Akutsu Farm’s rice paddies are situated on a river floodplain, where the soil is rich in minerals and highly fertile—a factor that likely makes the already delicious “Yudai 21” even more flavorful.

Pesticide-free cultivation has maximized the potential of Yudai 21

But that’s not all. Mr. Akutsu’s commitment to pesticide-free farming is likely another reason.

He says the most difficult part of pesticide-free farming is weed control.

To make weed control possible, he spaces the plants farther apart so that weeds can be removed from both the front and back. While typically 50 seedlings are planted per tsubo, the pesticide-free “Yudai 21” variety uses a “37-seedling-per-tsubo” planting method, reducing the number of plants by about 40 percent.

With this sparse planting method, the wider spacing between plants creates a V-shaped space where the ears of rice spread out, allowing sunlight to reach even the leaves at the base of the plants. Additionally, because nutrients are distributed more evenly, the ears are more likely to grow large.

Furthermore, the improved airflow between plants makes it harder for diseases such as “rice blast” and “sheath blight” to take hold, resulting in the production of robust rice plants.

Of course, no herbicides are used; instead, natural substances such as yeast, natto bacteria, and lemongrass extract—which repels insects—are sprayed to achieve pesticide-free cultivation. Even so, depending on the season, Mr. Akutsu enters the rice paddies every day to weed by hand.

Mr. Akutsu’s “Yudai 21,” cultivated with great care and effort, has earned high praise and is supplied to stores such as Mitsukoshi, Isetan, and The Ritz-Carlton Nikko. In 2025, it began being carried by “the rice factory,” a specialty store for Japanese rice with locations in New York and Los Angeles.

Demand for pesticide-free rice is particularly high overseas, and Mr. Akutsu’s efforts are highly regarded.

“Yudai 21” has been highly acclaimed since its first year of cultivation

Yudai 21, produced by Akutsu Farm, won the Gold Award in the Prefectural Division of the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition” in its very first year of production.

The following year, it received the Special Excellence Award in the International Comprehensive Division—the competition’s highest category—and in its fourth year, at the “23rd Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition,” it won the Gold Award in the International Comprehensive Division. From among the brown rice varieties that won Gold Awards at the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition,” this rice was certified as part of the “Toyo Rice World’s Best Rice 2022” program—organized by Toyo Rice, a comprehensive rice manufacturer famous for its “Kinme Rice”—which carefully selects the highest-grade brown rice based on its own criteria emphasizing “deliciousness and vitality.” As a result, the farm became one of only four producers nationwide to be selected as a supplier of raw rice for the world’s best rice.

The Evangelist of Yudai 21

It is reported that Utsunomiya University—the creator of “Yudai 21”—plans to partner with municipalities and other entities to use “Yudai 21” for town revitalization efforts.

Mr. Akutsu has been appointed as the “Yudai 21 Evangelist” by Utsunomiya University and will be responsible for sharing cultivation methods and other knowledge with local farmers.

It would be wonderful if “Yudai 21” served as a catalyst for raising the profile of Tochigi-grown rice nationwide, leading to increased attention for all rice produced in Tochigi Prefecture—regardless of variety.

To that end, Mr. Akutsu—embracing both the title and responsibility of “ambassador”—continues his outreach efforts today, hoping that people will “try ‘Yudai 21,’ a rice variety with a unique flavor unlike any other.”

The post Masahide Akutsu of “Akutsu Farm,” Who Grows Rice Using the “Yudai 21” Variety Developed in Tochigi / Otawara City, Tochigi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In the mountainous region of Yabakei Town in northern Oita Prefecture—where rugged rocky mountains and clear streams intertwine—lush green tea fields stretch out. Tetsuya Kawatani, the second-generation owner of “Kawatani-en Tea Farm,” oversees every aspect of the business here, from tea cultivation to sales. He was the first person west of Shizuoka to be awarded the title of “Tea Sage” and is recognized as a leading figure in Oita’s tea industry.

Cultivating tea on mountain land as part of a government initiative

The history of tea production at Kawatani-en began in Showa 49. Originally, Mr. Kawatani’s grandfather primarily engaged in mountain work, such as charcoal burning and shiitake mushroom cultivation. Then, around the time his father took over the family business, a government initiative led to the introduction of tea cultivation. Recognizing that the mountain work of his grandfather’s generation yielded low profits, Mr. Kawatani’s father began cultivating the newly cleared land, which marked the start of the family’s involvement in the tea industry. Initially, they cultivated only three or four varieties, including “Yabukita,” which accounts for approximately 70 to 80 percent of Japan’s tea fields. However, after Mr. Kawatani entered the industry and studied tea varieties extensively, he began sourcing various cultivars. As a result, the farm now cultivates a total of eight varieties: seven main varieties—Saemidori, Asatsuyu, Asanoka, Harumidori, Yabukita, Okumidori, and Sakimidori—plus a small amount of Benifuki.

The Challenge to “Asatsuyu,” Which Even Experts Vehemently Opposed

Among them, there is one variety that symbolizes Mr. Kawatani’s passion for tea cultivation. It is “Asatsuyu,” also known as “Natural Gyokuro” for its overwhelming umami and vivid green color. To experts, growing this extremely delicate and cold-sensitive variety in Yabakei—where winters are bitterly cold—seemed “reckless,” and he reportedly faced fierce opposition even from the researchers at the experimental station. Nevertheless, Mr. Kawatani believed in the potential of tea nurtured by Yabakei’s natural environment and took that first step.

“My father was still in good health at the time, but the fact that the professor flatly told us, ‘It’s impossible,’ actually ignited our rebellious spirit—that was one of the reasons we decided to go ahead with cultivation,” says Mr. Kawatani.

Kawatani-en is located at an elevation of approximately 550 meters. While areas with significant temperature fluctuations between day and night are considered ideal for tea cultivation, if it gets so cold that frost sets in, the leaves will be ruined. Kawatani-en lies right on the edge of that ideal range, and the tea plants do occasionally suffer frost damage. However, Mr. Kawatani explains, “Tea leaves grown in harsh environments develop into mellow, fragrant buds of exceptional quality.” The characteristic of Asatsuyu tea—its sensitivity to cold—can also be viewed as the potential to accumulate incredible sweetness and richness once it survives a harsh winter. Adversity, in other words, gives rise to the depth of its flavor.

A Commitment to Fertilizers That Build on Tradition and Have Evolved Through Science

Alongside his exploration of tea varieties, Mr. Kawatani has devoted his efforts to soil cultivation. Good soil is essential for growing high-quality tea. And while fertilizer—which provides nutrients—is indispensable for creating good soil, in his father’s day, perilla seed cake, rapeseed meal, and fish meal were each spread separately on the fields, and a nitrogen fertilizer called ammonium sulfate was applied separately to promote new growth. However, as the cultivation area expanded and Mr. Kawatani took sole responsibility for fertilization, he realized the difficulty of handling everything separately. That’s when he came up with the idea of mixing all the materials together from the start to create a single fertilizer. Around the same time, his father told him, “You can do whatever you like with the fertilizer’s ingredients,” which served as a turning point, and about five years ago, he took the plunge into creating his own blend.

The formula Mr. Kawatani arrived at incorporates two major innovations. The first is the use of fish meal and bone meal—which contain fish innards and bones—instead of the conventional fish trimmings. He explains that this is to infuse the soil with complex minerals and umami compounds. The second is the addition of liquid nitrogen at –196°C to the fertilizer to supplement the nitrogen essential for plant growth. The result is Mr. Kawatani’s unique blended fertilizer, composed almost entirely of organic materials.

Furthermore, he has incorporated “Soluble,” a liquid fertilizer, to promote the sprouting of new tea buds. Soluble is an organic liquid fertilizer rich in minerals and amino acids, made by concentrating fish broth. Mr. Kawatani says he feels the depth and richness of the tea’s flavor have changed compared to the ammonium sulfate he used previously. “However, Soluble does have a strong odor. Since it’s made from simmered fish broth, if it gets on your skin, it won’t come off no matter how much you wash it for about two days. If it gets on your hands, the taste is so strong that everything you eat will taste like it,” Mr. Kawatani said with a laugh.

While cherishing tradition, each cup of tea from Kawatani-en—refined through scientific curiosity—embodies the harsh climate of Yabakei and Mr. Kawatani’s unwavering determination to overcome its challenges.

The Art of Hand-Kneading: A Dedication to Continuity

Kawatani-en also offers hand-rolled tea. This hand-rolled tea, which is produced entirely by hand without the use of any machinery, is said to have been devised in the mid-Edo period by Nagatani Sōen, a tea merchant from Uji, Kyoto. The process takes approximately six hours: after steaming the tea leaves to soften them, the tea master stands for the entire duration, manually loosening, rolling, and kneading the leaves before drying them to complete the process. The finished tea leaves are long and slender, like needles, and because they are not subjected to excessive force by machines, they are said to return to their original shape when placed in hot water. The color of the brewed tea is extremely pale, and while a milky white hue is considered the highest quality for hand-rolled tea, when sipped, a rich umami flavor spreads across the palate that is unimaginable given its pale color. Due to the labor-intensive nature of the process, mass production is impossible, and because it requires highly skilled craftsmanship—leading to a dwindling number of tea rollers—hand-rolled tea commands an extremely high price when it reaches the market.

Mr. Kawatani first encountered hand-rolled tea at the age of 19, after graduating from high school, while training as an intern at the National Research Institute of Agricultural Sciences. One of his fellow trainees there was Tsuyoshi Nakajima, who would later win the national hand-rolled tea competition eight times and become the first person in Japan to be awarded the title of “Perpetual Tea Master.” The two men, who were the same age, honed their skills through friendly competition, and eventually, Mr. Kawatani also began competing in the contest. In 2011, he won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award (First Place) and was awarded the title of “Tea Sage”—the first person from west of Shizuoka to receive this honor.

Why does Mr. Kawatani continue to produce hand-rolled tea, a labor-intensive process that cannot be mass-produced? The answer lies in his regrets from the past. He has missed the competition twice. The first time was when he suffered a sudden back spasm on the morning of the hand-rolling event; the second was when he began to feel a sense of resignation about continuing the practice. However, Mr. Kawatani says that for every moment of relief he felt from skipping the competition, he felt about 50 to 60 moments of regret, thinking, “I really should have participated after all.” It’s not about the results of the competition; it’s about doing the hand-rolling to intuitively confirm the quality of that year’s tea—the fact that skipping the competition actually made him realize the true significance of hand-rolling is what continues to drive Mr. Kawatani toward hand-rolled tea to this day.

“Tea that truly tastes like tea”—all in a single cup

In addition to hand-rolled tea, Kawatani-en offers a wide range of products, including sencha, deep-steamed tea, and hojicha—many of which were developed in response to customer feedback.

The flavor Mr. Kawatani strives for is “tea that truly tastes like tea.” When people talk about “delicious tea,” they often tend to focus on teas with a strong sweetness, and many people in general also describe such sweet teas as “delicious.” Mr. Kawatani himself once went through a phase where he relentlessly pursued sweetness, as if to respond to that sentiment. However, he could not shake his doubts about continuing to compete in that market, so he changed his approach. He sought a flavor that was not merely sweet, but also featured a crisp astringency and a refreshing finish. Setting that taste as his ideal, he arrived at the premium deep-steamed tea “Midori.” “Midori” is also the first tea he processes each year. Since he compares it with the previous year’s batch to find a blend that satisfies him, it takes at least two weeks from the time the new tea leaves are picked until the product is ready for sale. In today’s world of advanced logistics, where tea shops near the production areas can sometimes have products on the shelves just 3 to 5 days after picking, two weeks may seem extremely long—but it is the very embodiment of Mr. Kawatani’s dedication.

On the other hand, despite having long decided “not to make it,” there are some products we’ve added to our lineup after giving in to customer requests. One such product is genmaicha. While green tea is typically sold in packages of 50g or 100g, genmaicha is often sold in large quantities, such as 500g or 1kg. With that much on hand, once you buy genmaicha, you end up drinking nothing but genmaicha for quite a while, and your opportunities to drink green tea decrease—in Mr. Kawatani’s words, you get stuck in a “negative genmaicha loop.” Although he had maintained a firm stance against making genmaicha out of concern for this, after receiving passionate requests, he came to the conclusion, “Why not just use the brown rice we grow ourselves?” and decided to produce it.

The result is a product named “my Genmai.” What surprises you when you open the bag is that there isn’t a single green tea leaf inside. Literally, it contains “nothing but brown rice” that has been carefully roasted until fragrant and crisp. He deliberately avoids mixing it with green tea. This “aesthetics of subtraction” has created a level of freedom that overturns conventional wisdom about genmaicha. If you want to enjoy it as genmaicha, you’ll need to prepare the green tea yourself. With “my Genmai,” Mr. Kawatani’s concern that “people will drink less green tea once they start drinking genmaicha” has been resolved. Furthermore, by proposing new ways to use it—such as in salads or ochazuke (rice topped with tea) instead of croutons or rice crackers—the product has effortlessly transcended the traditional image of genmaicha. He has also developed a stick-type powdered genmaicha that dissolves in both hot water and cold water, which has also been well received.

Powdered tea is being adopted by gelato shops in Tokyo and chiffon cake classes in Chiba, among other places, leading to the development of a new consumer base that extends beyond simply drinking it. “The fact that it’s not limited to just drinking makes me feel that tea is still a product with a lot of potential,” Mr. Kawatani said, his eyes narrowing in a smile.

I want to raise the level of play in Kyushu and develop young players.

When it comes to famous tea-producing regions, Shizuoka and Sayama (in Saitama Prefecture) are the first places that come to mind. The name “Oita” rarely comes to the forefront. Mr. Kawatani candidly admits that if he were growing tea in the heart of one of those major producing regions, he wouldn’t stand a chance against the competition. “I’m confident that, in Kyushu today, I’m the only one capable of producing hand-rolled tea of this caliber. However, when it comes to national tea competitions, there are times when I simply can’t compete. At times like that, I’m painfully aware of just how far Kyushu still has to go,” says Mr. Kawatani. Of course, Kyushu does have cities like Yame and Ureshino that rank highly in national tea competitions. However, that’s in categories other than hand-rolled tea. When it comes to hand-rolled tea, they fall far short of regions like Sayama. 

That is precisely why Mr. Kawatani is so committed to raising the standard of tea production in Kyushu and nurturing the next generation of tea makers. To enter tea competitions, one must belong to a national organization, but since Oita Prefecture lacks such an organization, Mr. Kawatani himself belongs to an organization based in Yame, Fukuoka Prefecture. There is a young person in Yame who is currently developing his skills. A project to revitalize the Kyushu hand-rolled tea community—a collaboration between Mr. Kawatani and this young person—is now getting underway. Mr. Kawatani earnestly envisions a future where each prefecture in Kyushu nurtures one tea producer capable of making a name for themselves nationwide, and where Kyushu producers consistently win top prizes at tea competitions.

Hearing the words “That’s delicious” fills me with energy

My father, the founder of Kawatani-en, passed away in 2022. While he was alive, he had a goal of “doing what I can at 80 percent effort,” but now that I’m handling the family business entirely on my own, I’ve come to realize all too well that I have to give 100 or even 120 percent just to keep up. It’s by no means easy. However, every time I hear fellow industry professionals or customers say, “Kawatani-en’s tea is delicious,” I feel a surge of energy. The market is changing rapidly, and there’s no single “right” path, but he will continue to experiment flexibly—including with flavor profiles. Mr. Kawatani describes this mindset as “the battle continues until the tea reaches the customer’s mouth.”

The reality is that, under pressure from bottled green tea drinks, an increasing number of tea producers are giving up on selling loose tea leaves and shifting toward factories dedicated to beverage production. However, Mr. Kawatani takes issue with this trend. “I went to school and studied tea in depth, didn’t I?” he says. Unlike vegetables, the retail price of tea is unlikely to experience a major collapse. If that’s the case, there must be a way for the farmers who grow the tea leaves—not the wholesalers or company presidents—to turn a profit. He has consistently maintained this view, calling on his colleagues: “There must still be a way for producers to succeed. Let’s figure it out.”

During a training program after high school graduation, he and his classmates joked about a shared dream: “Let’s make it big enough that we can all drive Mercedes-Benzes to our class reunion.” It has been about 25 years since then. That dream has now deepened into a desire to “make money together, be happy together, and bring happiness to everyone around us as well.” He wants to bring happiness to people through tea production. Mr. Kawatani’s tea continues to be produced today in the mountain tea fields, born from that very passion.

The post The simple phrase “It’s delicious” is what drives his tea cultivation. Tetsuya Kawatani of “Kawatani-en Tea Farm,” Nakatsu City, Oita Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Yamada Town is located roughly in the center of Iwate Prefecture’s coastline. Because it faces the Pacific Ocean, it is strongly associated with fishing, but the town is also known for its log-grown shiitake mushrooms, and almost every year, farmers from the town have won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award at national competitions. Eizo Haga, one of only a handful of renowned experts in this field nationwide, is considered a pioneer in the cultivation of log-grown shiitake mushrooms in Yamada Town.

A cool climate and lush mountains nurture log-grown shiitake mushrooms

Yamada Town, located in Shimohei District, Iwate Prefecture, is a town embraced by nature, with the Pacific Ocean to the east and the Kitakami Mountains stretching to the west. Because the mountains are rich in broadleaf trees such as beech, oak, and red pine, the area is ideal for growing shiitake mushrooms on logs, and shiitake cultivation is thriving here. Since log-grown shiitake mushrooms prefer locations that are sheltered from direct sunlight, well-ventilated, and have moderate humidity, the mountainous forest environment—where vegetation provides shade, the cool climate at higher elevations, and the moisture released by trees’ respiration help maintain optimal conditions—is ideal.

Incidentally, shiitake mushrooms are classified as “log-grown shiitake” or “substrate-grown shiitake” depending on the cultivation method, and most fresh shiitake mushrooms sold in supermarkets are substrate-grown. The reason for this is that substrate-grown shiitake are cultivated by artificially adding nutrients to blocks of compressed sawdust, allowing them to be harvested in 3 to 6 months—a growth rate nearly four times faster than that of log-grown shiitake. Furthermore, as long as the necessary facilities are in place, they can be grown anywhere and are not affected by the climate, resulting in stable production volumes.

On the other hand, log-grown shiitake mushrooms are cultivated by inoculating natural logs with spawn, so they rely solely on the nutrients from the wood and take time to grow. While it is possible to cultivate them indoors as long as you have the logs for inoculation, log-grown shiitake mushrooms that have been carefully cultivated in a natural environment with optimal conditions are said to have a particularly rich flavor and thicker caps.

In Yamada Town, these log-grown shiitake mushrooms are often dried and processed into dried shiitake mushrooms (hoshishitake). Among dried shiitake mushrooms, those with large, well-shaped caps are highly prized as gifts and high-end ingredients. 

Dried shiitake mushrooms from Yamada Town—a premium ingredient

Dried shiitake mushrooms have several names. “Hana-donko” refers to mushrooms with white, flower-like cracks on the surface of the cap; due to their beautiful appearance, they are often used as gifts. “Kōshin” refers to mushrooms with caps that are more open than those of standard donko and have gills; because they produce a rich broth, they are highly valued in simmered dishes and the like. The Zen-Noh Dried Shiitake Mushroom Competition features categories such as “Kōshin (medium-leaf, thick-fleshed),” “Hana-donko,” and “Donko,” with entries judged based on color, shape, and size.

Dried shiitake mushrooms that win awards at these competitions are used as premium ingredients in hotels and traditional Japanese restaurants. Yamada Town’s dried shiitake mushrooms, prized for both their appearance and flavor, are in high demand among chefs and sushi masters.

As a master of log-grown shiitake mushrooms

Eizo Haga, a master of log-grown shiitake mushrooms, has established a mushroom workshop in the Toyamane district—located inland within Yamada Town—where he cultivates log-grown shiitake mushrooms. In the fall, he heads into the mountains to forage for matsutake mushrooms as well. The matsutake mushrooms gathered by Mr. Haga, who knows the mountains well, are renowned for their high quality, and he is known among locals as the “Mushroom Master.”

Mr. Haga began cultivating log-grown shiitake mushrooms in 1983, when he was about 38 years old. He won his first Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award at a national competition when he was 49. Since then, he has won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award five times in the “Hanadonko” category. Having become a regular recipient of the highest honors, Mr. Haga was awarded the title of “Master.” Since then, he has continued to enter competitions in various categories and has accumulated numerous awards.

Cultivating log-grown shiitake mushrooms using the abundant oak trees in Yamada Town

Mr. Haga’s log-grown shiitake mushrooms are cultivated both outdoors and in greenhouses. The logs used to inoculate the shiitake spores are made from Japanese oak. Broadleaf trees, not conifers, are best suited for these logs. While oak is commonly used in other prefectures, there are no oak trees growing in the forests of Yamada Town; however, since Japanese oak is abundant there, that is the wood used. Japanese oak also has a characteristic bark with cracks, making it easier to inoculate with shiitake spawn. Mr. Haga says, “Some places cultivate shiitake using other broadleaf trees, but even after trying them, shiitake grown on Japanese oak still tastes the best.” Since shiitake mushrooms grow best in cool, moderately humid environments, it is preferable for the logs to be shielded from direct sunlight. Therefore, even though it is called “open-field cultivation,” the mushrooms are actually grown in mountain forests shaded by tall trees. The size of the shiitake mushrooms is said to be proportional to the size of the logs. In other words, the thicker and sturdier the log, the larger the shiitake mushrooms will grow.

A Leading Force in Log Cultivation in Yamada Town

The year 1983, when Mr. Haga began cultivating log-grown shiitake mushrooms, coincided with the time when Yamada Town was just beginning to focus its efforts on shiitake cultivation. Many others also began growing log-grown shiitake mushrooms around the same time. However, once the Heisei era began, inexpensive Chinese shiitake mushrooms flooded the market, causing market prices to plummet. There was a period when Yamada Town’s log-grown shiitake industry also faced difficult times. It is said that some growers even went out of business during that period. Even amid these challenges, Mr. Haga continued to actively enter his mushrooms in competitions across the country. 

Reflecting on the Future of Log-Grown Shiitake Mushrooms

Even at over 80 years old, Mr. Haga continues to energetically cultivate log-grown shiitake mushrooms. “Log-grown shiitake mushrooms have a better texture and more umami than those grown on sawdust beds,” he says, explaining his commitment to log-grown shiitake.
He explains that to win awards at competitions, he enters shiitake mushrooms with caps that are as uniform as possible in size, color, and shape. To grow a large number of mushrooms of the same size, the logs must also be uniform in size. The logs have a diameter of about 18 cm. Because they are quite heavy, managing them is hard work for the elderly Mr. Haga.

“If you keep them inside the greenhouse for too long, they’ll suffer from heat stress. By July, it gets hot inside the greenhouse. When that happens, we move the logs back to the mountains. Rather than spraying them with pesticides, returning them to the mountains provides better ventilation and is better for them,” said Mr. Haga. November. Although no shiitake mushrooms had yet sprouted on the logs in the greenhouse, he said they would be ready for harvest around April. Because they are cultivated using logs that have not been treated with pesticides, log-grown shiitake mushrooms are safe and reliable.

I will continue to grow shiitake mushrooms on logs for as long as I live.

Mr. Haga has been at the forefront of shiitake cultivation on logs in Yamada Town ever since it first took off. Even as other producers his age have stopped farming, he continues to lead the way in shiitake cultivation. “My biggest challenge is my own physical stamina,” he says. “I work every year thinking this might be my last batch of shiitake.” Yet even under these circumstances, Mr. Haga continues to achieve outstanding results at competitions. “I suppose it’s the result of many years of experience. If you visit the farm every day, the weather tells you what to do. When the humidity rises, the caps split open, revealing distinct white cracks, and the shiitake mushrooms turn out beautifully. When the humidity is too low, I water them. I have to say, I’m doing a pretty good job. I also need to train the next generation. I want to keep doing my best as long as I live,” says Mr. Haga. His expression radiated the pride of a master craftsman.

The post Continuing to Lead the Way in Yamada Town’s Log-Grown Shiitake Mushrooms: Eizo Haga, Master Mushroom Grower / Yamada Town, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Pineapple fields stretch across the rolling hills overlooking the sea. Located on the east coast of northern Okinawa Island, Higashi Village in Kunigami District is the home of “Gold Barrel,” a premium pineapple that accounts for just 5% of Japan’s total production. What is the story behind the “King of Pineapples”—the Gold Barrel—and the aspirations of its young growers?

The History of Pineapple Cultivation in Okinawa Prefecture

Okinawa Prefecture accounts for nearly 100% of Japan’s domestic pineapple production, with an annual harvest of approximately 7,000 to 8,000 metric tons. It is said that pineapple cultivation began in 1866 when seedlings washed ashore from a Dutch ship that had run aground off the coast of Ishigaki Island. After World War II, when cultivation and breed improvement for canning began in earnest, pineapples grew to become one of the two major staple crops alongside sugarcane by the 1960s.

However, the once-thriving pineapple industry suffered a major blow with the liberalization of canned product imports in 1990, and cultivation of the Hawaiian variety “N67-10”—which had been the mainstay for processing—began to decline.

Shift to high-value-added varieties for fresh consumption

Although pineapple cultivation had declined at one point, Okinawa Prefecture is shifting toward growing high-value-added varieties intended for fresh consumption. Today, the prefecture produces “Snack Pine” (official name: Bogor Pine), which can be torn apart by hand and eaten as a snack, the small, white-fleshed “Peach Pine” (official name: Soft Touch), the intensely sweet “Sandolce” (official name: Okino P17), the “White Coco” (official name: Okino P19) with its coconut-like aroma, and the premium “Gold Barrel” (official name: Gold Barrel Pine). These and many other fresh-eating varieties have been developed and are now being cultivated, steadily expanding their market share.

The Birth of the Premium “Gold Barrel” Pineapple

“Gold Barrel,” registered as a new variety in 2006, originated in Higashimura. It was developed over a period of approximately 20 years from a seedling obtained in 1989 at the Okinawa Prefectural Agricultural Research Center by crossing “Cream Pine” and “McGregor ST-1.” The variety was named for its golden-colored flesh and barrel-like shape.

The most distinctive feature of Gold Barrel is its high sugar content. While the sugar content of typical pineapples ranges from 14 to 16 degrees, Gold Barrel has a much higher sugar content of 17 to 19 degrees. Furthermore, the fruit is so tender that even the core is edible, and it has less of the characteristic sharp tartness typical of pineapples. When you take a bite, it’s melt-in-your-mouth tender and juicy, and because it has very little fiber, it doesn’t leave a gritty texture in your mouth. With its refined sweetness and rich aroma, and weighing approximately 1.5 to 2 kg per fruit, it has gained attention as a premium pineapple for gift-giving.

Tadao Tamaki, the creator of “Gold Barrel”

Tadao Tamaki of Tamaki Farm—a pioneer in pineapple cultivation in Higashimura and an Honorary Agricultural Advisor for Okinawa Prefecture—played a pivotal role in the creation of this new variety. Starting with 11 frail seedlings he had received, Mr. Tamaki repeatedly selected and nurtured them, and through many years of effort and research, he cultivated “Gold Barrel” into a truly golden-hued fruit.

Among the “Gold Barrel” pineapples Mr. Tamaki grows himself, those that are particularly exceptional in terms of taste, color, size, and shape are named “TADAO GOLD.” Known as the highest-grade variety of “Gold Barrel,” they are selected from only a few percent of the total crop.

The Legacy of Pineapple Farming

Yoshiyuki and Kie Shinzato, who run “Shinzato Fruit Farm” in Higashimura, are the next generation of growers who learned the ins and outs of Gold Barrel cultivation from Mr. Tamaki, who has devoted over 50 years to pineapple farming.

Kie is Mr. Tamaki’s daughter, and she had watched him grow pineapples since she was a child. However, it wasn’t until she entered the workforce that she realized just how remarkable her father’s pineapples were. She says it was after she started working as a pastry chef in Naha City.

Nearly 20 years ago, the pineapples her workplace was sourcing turned out to be Gold Barrel varieties grown by her father. She heard rumors from people around her that “TADAO GOLD” was famous for its delicious taste, and that’s when she realized just how exceptional they were. Thinking, “This might not be a job anyone can do,” she began working side by side with Yoshiyuki—who was born and raised on a part-time mango farm in Nanjo City—to take on the challenge of growing Gold Barrel pineapples.

Gold Barrel, Grown on the Land of Higashimura

Higashi Village, home to Shinzato Orchard, is not only one of the prefecture’s leading pineapple-producing areas but is also known as “Yanbaru,” a region where rich natural landscapes—including mangrove forests—and unique ecosystems remain well-preserved. In the vast fields where patches of red soil peek through, pineapples that have grown to about waist height stand densely planted in neat rows.

Higashimura’s red soil and climate, ideal for pineapple cultivation

One reason pineapple cultivation thrives in Higashimura is the acidic, well-drained red clay soil that pineapples prefer most. Additionally, the terrain allows minerals from the sea to seep into the soil, and summer temperatures range from 30 to 35 degrees. These conditions produce pineapples with high sugar content.

Soil preparation that capitalizes on the advantages of this soil is a crucial factor in pineapple cultivation.

Soil preparation begins by using a power shovel to till the soil to a depth of about 1 meter. Since water is the pineapple’s arch-enemy, this process creates air pockets in the soil, improving drainage. The tilled soil is then left to rest for three months, exposed to natural rainfall to allow moisture and minerals to permeate the soil while incorporating air, helping it regain its vitality. This process also prevents problems such as stunted growth caused by continuous cropping.

And apparently, the most important aspect of soil preparation is weed control. “My father-in-law tells me most often not to let the weeds grow,” says Yoshiyuki. To prevent an infestation of scale insects, they don’t use machines for weeding—they pull them out almost entirely by hand. This labor-intensive and time-consuming approach to soil preparation ultimately contributes to the flavor of the pineapples.

From Planting to Growth to Harvest

Pineapple planting is generally divided into two main periods: spring (March and April) and summer (September and October). Spring planting is timed so that the roots can establish themselves before the rainy season begins in late May. Summer planting is scheduled while monitoring typhoon conditions to ensure the planted seedlings do not rot due to rain.

Once the fruit has grown to a certain size, each one is covered with a hat made of newspaper to protect it from sunburn, and then covered with netting to block strong ultraviolet rays, thereby preventing the skin from burning and spoiling. Additionally, since the large, heavy “Gold Barrel” variety can have its stems snapped by strong typhoon winds, pipes are installed to support the stems.

Gold Barrel pineapples, which are grown with great care in an environment optimized for the crop, are finally ready for harvest approximately three years after the seedlings are planted. Since pineapples generally do not continue to ripen after harvest, they are allowed to ripen on the plant and harvested at the peak of their flavor. As harvest time approaches, the ripeness of each fruit is checked daily, and ripe ones are harvested by hand.

Carrying Dreams in a Gold Barrel

Shinzato Orchard harvests approximately 9,000 pineapples annually. While standard pineapples can be harvested twice in four years, the Gold Barrel variety yields only once every three years. Despite being a difficult variety to cultivate—with limited yields and susceptibility to disease—the growers spare no effort, meticulously preparing the soil and waiting for the fruit to ripen on the tree before picking it at the peak of flavor.

That said, it is this meticulous work that produces the Gold Barrel—a pineapple that is tender right down to the core and boasts a rich, fragrant aroma. “My father-in-law conducts research every day and continues to incorporate new techniques even though he’s over 80. I’m young, but I still can’t keep up with him,” says Yoshiyuki humbly.

While absorbing techniques and knowledge from Mr. Tamaki, he is eager to expand production by gradually increasing the acreage of Gold Barrel—a variety that is difficult to grow and has unstable yields—with the goal of eventually achieving a stable harvest of 12,000 to 13,000 fruits.

Meanwhile, Kie is focused on establishing a shipping system. Gold Barrel, which is allowed to ripen on the tree, has a shelf life of just three days after harvest. The process of polishing each pineapple individually with a cloth and packing them by hand into boxes can take up to 22 hours during peak harvest season. However, they hope to streamline this process by adopting new systems—such as machinery—so they can devote even more time and effort to growing the pineapples.

The couple currently donates their harvested pineapples regularly to local elementary schools and children’s homes. This stems from their desire to change people’s “assumptions” about pineapples: “When we were children, we thought it was normal for pineapples to be a little sour. However, depending on the variety and cultivation methods, they can become this sweet. We want children to know that pineapples are sweet and delicious, and we want to change what people take for granted about pineapples.”

Just as Mr. Tamaki nurtured golden fruits from 11 frail seedlings, that passion and expertise are now being passed on to the next generation. The Gold Barrel pineapples, rooted in the red soil of Higashi Village, will continue to bear sweet fruit, carrying the dreams of these two men.

The post The Challenge of the Second-Generation Owner of “Shinzato Orchard,” Aiming for the Top of the Gold Barrel / Higashi Village, Kunigami District, Okinawa Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Nestled in the mountains of Hita City, Oita Prefecture, “Houkouen” has been growing pears for 70 years. Tomomi Nakama, the third-generation owner, is dedicated to preserving the sweet, juicy pears nurtured by the land’s vitality and her unwavering commitment to “sharing delicious food with her customers.”

“Hita Pears Throughout the Seasons”

In the northwestern part of Oita Prefecture, in the inland region of Kyushu bordering Fukuoka and Kumamoto, lies a town called Hita. Nestled deep within a basin surrounded by mountains, this area has long been blessed with abundant water and, due to its proximity to the headwaters of the Chikugo River, has been called the “Land of Water.” During the Edo period, it flourished as a territory directly administered by the shogunate, and even today, its historic streetscape and hot springs—which retain traces of that era—welcome visitors. In Hita, with its abundant natural beauty, there is a popular local product: pears.

Tomomi Nakama of “Houkouen” is the third-generation pear grower who has devoted his heart and soul to pear cultivation in this region. Driven by the single-minded desire to “share with customers the delicious fruits I enjoy eating myself,” his pear farming has attracted many repeat customers and garnered such strong support that he receives inquiries every year asking, “Are they ready yet?”

Houkouen began growing pears about 70 years ago, during the generation of Mr. Nakama’s grandfather. Mr. Nakama himself began working at his family’s farm immediately after graduating from college. “I always thought I would take over the business,” she explains. Having become involved in the family business at a young age, Mr. Nakama continues to dedicate herself to the unique art of pear cultivation specific to this region.

A region where various natural conditions make it ideal for pear cultivation

When it comes to pear-producing regions, Tottori and Chiba Prefectures are the first to come to mind. In terms of production volume by prefecture, Oita Prefecture ranks around 10th. However, in Hita City, a variety of pear cultivars are grown that can be shipped from late July through around December, and the local JA Pear Committee promotes this rich selection under the slogan “Hita Pears All Year Round.”

So why is it possible to grow such high-quality pears in Hita City? When I asked Mr. Nakama, he replied, “It’s the power of the land.”

Located in a basin, Hita City experiences significant temperature differences between morning and evening, with nighttime temperatures sometimes dropping to 12–13 degrees during the summer. The lower the nighttime temperature, the more sugar the fruit can store from what it has accumulated during the day. This is why areas with large temperature fluctuations are said to be ideal for fruit production. Then there’s the water. Hita City, blessed with both high-quality water and abundant water supply—so much so that it’s known as the “Land Polished by Water”—provides the perfect conditions for pear cultivation. And then there’s the soil. This region’s red clay soil, rather than sandy soil, has the ability to retain nutrients, serving as the foundation for a bountiful harvest. Temperature differences, water, and soil.

It is the convergence of these three elements that gives rise to Hita’s pears.

At Houkouen, we currently cultivate six main varieties for shipment: starting with Kosui, followed by Houzui, Shinko, Akizuki, Atago, and Okusan-kichi. In particular, the late-ripening Okusan-kichi was once cultivated throughout Japan, but because it is labor-intensive to grow, the number of producers has plummeted. As a result, it now accounts for less than 1% of total pear production, with the vast majority reportedly grown in Oita Prefecture. While Okusan-kichi has a moderate acidity, consumers have recently shown a preference for sweeter varieties with less acidity, and these changing times are reflected in the selection of varieties.

While trying to figure out what the pear tree wants,

“I look at the tree and try to determine whether it needs water or nutrients—similar to the supplements people take,” says Nakama. “I consider what to do while assessing these factors.”

Pear saplings begin to bear fruit little by little around their third year after planting. They bloom around the same time as cherry blossoms, and the sight of seven or eight blossoms opening from a single branch resembles the way cherry blossoms bloom. Harvests peak when the trees are about 20 years old, and although yields decline gradually thereafter, some trees are said to continue bearing fruit even after they are over 100 years old. To ensure the fruit grows large and firm, and to transform the sugars produced through photosynthesis into sweetness, there is no alternative but to constantly watch over the orchard and the trees, applying meticulous care at every step. It is this accumulation of time and effort that yields sweet pears.

The key is soil preparation

At Houkouen, we use organic fertilizers such as compost mixed with cow manure and sawdust, as well as fish meal and rapeseed oil cake. Continued use of these materials softens the soil, improves drainage, and promotes the healthy growth of microorganisms. While chicken manure compost is another option, we have chosen cow manure compost because it has a long-term effect on the soil, whereas chicken manure compost, though it provides immediate results, does not last as long.

Furthermore, instead of using herbicides on weeds growing in the fields, they are cut with machinery. This allows earthworms to thrive in the soil, and their castings provide organic matter that serves as food for microorganisms. Additionally, as the earthworms move around, they aerate the soil, promoting the decomposition of organic matter by microorganisms. In this way, living, fertile soil is created.

However, Mr. Nakama notes that even in this region, where various conditions for pear cultivation are ideal, there are still challenges that must be addressed.

Challenges Facing Pear Cultivation

When asked about the challenges they face in pear cultivation, three answers emerged: climate change, tree diseases, and labor shortages.

As for the climate, temperatures have been high in recent springs, causing pear trees to bloom earlier. The flowering period is the most delicate stage; if a late frost occurs at this time, the pistils turn black and wither, potentially preventing fruit from setting. Excessively hot summers, prolonged periods of rain, and then sudden, heavy downpours in a short span of time. The weather in recent years has become increasingly unpredictable, further exacerbating conditions that weaken the trees. Mr. Nakama confides that while he adapts flexibly by monitoring the weather to adjust fertilization and water management, it remains quite challenging.

Tree diseases are another source of concern. As a result of repeated breeding efforts to improve flavor, there are now more varieties that are susceptible to disease. He considered switching to organic farming, in line with global trends in agriculture, but had a bitter experience when he tried it with pears: disease spread rampantly, and the effects lingered for several years. He says he struggles to strike the right balance between using pesticides and ensuring safety.

And then there’s the labor shortage. Houkouen is no exception. Typically, pears grow about 180 cm above the ground. This means workers must keep their faces and hands raised the entire time they’re working, placing a considerable strain on their necks, shoulders, and lower backs. In the past, they could rely on local seniors and housewives who would come during peak season, but now there’s no one left to turn to. Currently, they’re managing by relying on a few local residents and bringing in workers from outside the prefecture only during peak season.

Changing the way trees are pruned to reduce the burden on workers

Faced with a workforce largely made up of inexperienced workers, Mr. Nakama changed the way the trees were pruned. “Normally, trees grow upward. However, if you bend the branches down at an angle of about 30 to 40 degrees, the fruit will grow at a slightly lower height than before. When the fruit grows at a height of about 90 cm, it makes the work easier even for inexperienced workers.”

He is shifting toward a cultivation method that allows anyone to harvest the fruit. While keeping costs down, he is also considering the future introduction of harvesting robots. Mr. Nakama is steadily exploring a path that will allow the operation to function even without human labor.

As demand for fruit continues to decline year after year,

Along with labor shortages, Mr. Nakama is facing a decline in demand for the fruit itself. For pears in particular, the fact that they must be peeled before eating is a major hurdle. While many people say they “like pears,” that doesn’t necessarily translate into purchases. He has noticed that younger generations, in particular, simply aren’t buying them; in fact, whether in stores or through online sales, about 70 percent of buyers are in their 50s or older. While varieties like Shine Muscat—which can be eaten with the skin on and have no seeds—are gaining popularity, demand for fruits that require extra effort to prepare is declining, partly due to their status as luxury items. This is Mr. Nakama’s analysis.

As a solution to this problem, Mr. Nakama is working to broaden the appeal of pears.

To Convey the Charm of Pears

In addition to selling fresh pears, Houkouen also handcrafts processed products such as juice, jam, and dried fruit. Although they can’t produce large quantities, these items are very popular because they allow people to enjoy the delicious taste of pears year-round. “Making these processed products is kind of like a hobby,” Mr. Nakama says with a laugh, but behind those words lies a sincere desire to share the appeal of pears with as many people as possible.

Among these products, “pear vinegar” is particularly unique. As the name suggests, it is vinegar made from pears. It was born from a simple idea: “If wine can be turned into balsamic vinegar, why not pears?” These unusual products have garnered a good reputation, leading to increased media coverage of Houkouen. When exhibiting at events, she brings both fresh pears and processed products. Some people choose the juicy pears, while others reach for the processed items—each person discovers the pears in their own way. Nakama says that every time she sees this, she realizes that the appeal of pears is gradually spreading.

For the Future of Pear Cultivation

Although there are currently about 100 pear farms in Hita, that number continues to decline year by year. One reason for this is that the generation that experienced a period about 15 years ago—when prices hit rock bottom to the point where farmers could no longer make a living from market sales alone—is no longer passing the business down to their children. Mr. Nakama himself has a son, but he doesn’t feel strongly that his son must take over the farm. “When I’m old enough to retire, if there’s someone who wants to take over, I’ll hand it over to them”—that is his honest sentiment. That is precisely why he is steadily continuing his efforts to adapt his cultivation methods so that production and harvesting can be managed even without ample labor or experience.

No one knows at this point what the future holds for pears. Nevertheless, with an eye on the future, Mr. Nakama continues to tend to his pears day after day. “As long as people say they’ll miss pears if they become scarce, I’ll keep going. I can’t let down the expectations of customers who buy them because they’re ‘delicious,’ so I’ll never cut corners.”

“Hita pears, all year round.” A key part of this tradition is the presence of farmers like Mr. Nakama, who pour their hearts into pear cultivation. For the sake of those eagerly awaiting this year’s pears, Mr. Nakama stands in his Hita orchard once again today.

The post “I want to broaden our reach and share the appeal of pears with as many people as possible.” Tomomi Nakama of “Houkouen” / Hita City, Oita Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kochi Prefecture is a tropical region rich in natural beauty, nurtured by the bounty of the Pacific Ocean and its mountains and rivers. Among its areas, Haruno-cho in Kochi City is a warm region facing the Pacific Ocean. It features breezes blowing in from the sea, abundant sunshine, and a landscape where plains and hills intertwine. Drawing on these natural blessings, Farm Vegeco is paving the way for the future of agriculture.

Growing Vegetables in Greenhouses in Winter: A Reversal in Agriculture

About 90 percent of Kochi Prefecture’s land area is mountainous, and rivers flowing from the Shikoku Mountains rush down as rapids before emptying into the sea. As a result, sediment does not accumulate over wide areas, and the terrain is characterized by a lack of large-scale plains. So, how can this limited flat land be put to good use? Greenhouse horticulture—which yields high crop yields even on small plots—has developed as a solution to this challenge. Open-field cultivation takes place in the mountainous areas during the summer, while greenhouse cultivation occurs in the plains during the winter. By skillfully adapting to the seasons and the terrain, a unique agricultural system specific to this region has taken shape.

The cucumbers grown by Nagasaki Asahi at Farm Vegeco are transplanted in early October, and harvesting continues daily from mid-November through June. This is a reverse approach: growing in winter crops that typically bear fruit in summer when grown in open fields. The cucumbers, having endured the cold, lose their grassy bitterness and become sweeter. Cucumbers grown in winter greenhouses possess a quiet yet robust flavor distinct from their summer counterparts.

However, in cold regions, the high cost of heating makes it difficult to expand winter cucumber cultivation on a large scale. In this regard, the Pacific coast—with its warm climate and abundant sunshine—is an ideal region for growing winter crops. Among these areas, Kochi Prefecture ranks among the top in the nation for cucumber production, hovering around 6th or 7th place in recent years. It maintains a stable position as a major production center.

Prepare the soil, observe the leaves, and grow the fruit straight

Everything hinges on the three-month summer off-season for Farm Vegeco’s cucumbers. The Nagasaki family, who are also rice farmers, incorporate large amounts of rice husks and rice bran—byproducts of rice cultivation—into the soil and allow them to ferment. This soil preparation is the reason why their winter cucumbers are surprisingly sweet. Just as nuka-zuke pickles become sweet, soil enriched with rice bran brings out the cucumbers’ natural sweetness.

The Vitality of Greenery Thriving in the Greenhouse

Inside the greenhouse, farmers carefully identify the vines—which resemble a “body” and “limbs” extending from a single cucumber plant—and adjust the number of leaves to control the amount of photosynthesis. Each leaf plays a role in nurturing the nearby fruit, so farmers must be careful not to remove too many or leave too many.

In Japanese markets, “straight cucumbers” are in demand. If a cucumber touches a leaf, it bends; if it touches the ground, it turns yellow. Farmers watch over the growth of each individual cucumber, sometimes thinning the fruit and sometimes shaping it by hand to produce “Grade A” produce. “Grade A” refers to standard products that meet specifications for shape, color, and size, with few blemishes or bends. Of course, the taste remains the same even if they’re bent. Nevertheless, the reality is that market standards dictate farmers’ incomes.

Inside the greenhouse, the cucumber vines stretch out thinly as if searching for air, their tips—which have yet to touch anything—gently swaying in midair. It is a quiet movement, almost like hesitation, before they reach out for support.

Within that subtle hint of movement lies the plant’s unwavering will, striving to choose the path its life will take from here on.

A Farm That Has Been in Operation for 50 Years and the Legacy Left by My Family

The history of Farm Vegeco dates back more than 50 years. My father, who had been working at a travel agency, was adopted into a farming family that had been growing melons and tomatoes since my grandmother’s generation, and he took over the farm. He had no prior experience in farming. Nevertheless, with his artisan’s spirit, he engaged with the soil, immersed himself in every task, and honed his skills.

By his side was my mother, who had also worked at the same travel agency. My mother, who possessed the ability to forge connections between people and nature, established the Farm Vegeco brand under the philosophy of “Vegetable Communication & Collaboration.” Valuing dialogue with chefs, she grew not only cucumbers but also herbs and a diverse range of vegetables, continually responding to the needs of culinary professionals. Furthermore, by personally visiting supermarkets in Tokyo and actively participating in product competitions, she quietly yet steadily spread the name of Farm Vegeco among the general public.

To protect the farm his parents had built and pass it on to the next generation, Mr. Nagasaki chose to work the fields himself after a stint as a salaryman in Tokyo. However, in May 2025, his mother passed away due to illness. It was his fourth year back at the farm. Though the time he spent learning directly from her was brief, the spirit she instilled in him—farming to bring joy to people’s faces—remains unchanged and continues to breathe life into the very heart of this farm.

The Reality Facing Farmers Caught Between the Market and Direct Sales

Currently, 70% of Farm Vegeco’s produce is shipped to markets, while 30% is sold directly to consumers. The farm has stopped shipping through the JA. JA shipments involve high commission fees, which can sometimes cut farmers’ take-home pay in half. Pricing is also determined by the JA, making it difficult for farmers to proactively choose their customers. On the other hand, there are significant advantages to entrusting collection, sorting, and sales to the JA, as this ensures stable sales channels.

The appeal of shipping to the market lies in the low commission—around 10 percent—which increases the farmers’ take-home pay. However, this requires farmers to handle all sorting, packing, and shipping themselves, and they are responsible for maintaining consistent quality and building trust. Even so, their love and pride in the cucumbers they grow led them to choose the path of building their own brand.

The unit price of cucumbers is determined by market rates, and farmers have no say in setting the price. Even Grade A cucumbers fetch only about 30 yen per cucumber. It’s a harsh world where non-standard cucumbers sell for just 50 yen per kilogram. Rebuilding a greenhouse costs between 30 million and 40 million yen. Even repairs alone cost millions of yen every year. This is why the number of young farmers isn’t increasing.

Even so, Mr. Nagasaki says, “Farming is fun.”

“I was fortunate to have a foundation because I took over my parents’ farm. But starting from scratch presents a high barrier to entry. If the government had a system to lease unused greenhouses to young people, the farming population would surely grow,” he says.

Increasing direct sales and building connections with chefs and supermarkets that buy at fair prices—that is the path to survival for small-scale farmers. In fact, since winning the Grand Prize at the Vegetable Sommelier Summit in 2013, Farm Vegeco’s profile has risen, and chefs from Tokyo restaurants and international hotels have begun visiting Kochi in search of the farm’s cucumbers. Some overseas chefs even seek out tiny cucumbers still bearing their blossoms. The creativity of these chefs is bringing new perspectives to the farmers.

A “Flavor” We Want to Preserve for the Future: The Aspirations of a Young Farmer

When you take a bite of a cucumber from Farm Vegeco, juice bursts out immediately after harvest, filling your mouth with freshness. What’s more, that freshness is slow to fade, even after several days. Growing slowly in winter tightens the cells, strengthening the fruit’s ability to retain moisture.
Furthermore, the fruits that have endured the winter cold have little of that grassy taste and are surprisingly sweet.

Mr. Nagasaki says, “Even after my father is gone, the last thing I want to hear is that the taste has changed.” . He has no intention of expanding the number of greenhouses. Rather than chasing scale, he prioritizes preserving flavor. And he aims to connect with people who truly appreciate their produce and are willing to pay a fair price for it. That is the future vision for Farm Vegeco.

A single cucumber grown during the winter in Kochi. Behind it lies a family’s history, the local climate, the memory of the soil, and the bonds between people. Inside the quiet greenhouse, even today, a small vine striving to grow straight is reaching out, searching for support.

The post Carrying our family’s hopes into the future. With love from “Farm Vegeco” / Kochi City, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

“I don’t want to show my children a field where not even insects appear, so I don’t use pesticides,” says Hideyo Ohtake, representative of “Nikkei Farm,” with conviction. Having dedicated himself to agriculture for over 17 years, he is committed to growing vegetables using only organic fertilizers and no pesticides whatsoever. He now cultivates as many as 100 varieties of vegetables annually and is one of the leaders shaping the future of agriculture in Koriyama City, Fukushima Prefecture. He is also known for his “Legend Spinach,” which won the Grand Gold Award at the 2024 “Vegetable Sommelier Summit,” and has garnered attention from across the country. Together with his wife, Shiho—who manages sales at their farm’s direct-sales shop while he tends the fields—and his staff, he is dedicated to growing vegetables that bring joy to people.

I switched careers from hairdressing to farming. In terms of bringing joy to people, it was the same.

As it turns out, Ms. Otake’s first job after graduating from high school was as a hairdresser. “Back in high school, when a hairdresser helped me solve a problem with my hair, the words ‘Thank you’ just naturally came out of my mouth. I thought to myself that someday I’d like to make people happy as a hairdresser too, so I became an apprentice.”

Even back then, the Ohtake family owned a vegetable garden, but when his mother—who had been involved in farming—became too ill to tend the fields, he took over the farm. Driven by a sense of gratitude for having been able to pursue a career as a hairstylist, he eventually decided—after much deliberation—to leave the beauty industry and dedicate himself to farming.

“I never imagined I’d quit hairdressing to pursue farming, so I’m surprised even by myself. At first, I didn’t want to do it—I thought getting covered in mud was uncool. But when someone who ate our vegetables said, ‘That was delicious. Thank you,’ I realized that whether as a hairdresser or a farmer, the act of bringing joy to people is the same. That’s when the desire to make people happy through farming began to take root,” she recalls with a smile.

The creatures living in the soil are our vital partners, indispensable to agriculture.

Frustrated by people telling him that “pesticide-free farming is difficult,” Mr. Otake started by planting 1,000 corn stalks. However, the corn was completely wiped out by damage from palm civets, crows, and insects. Drawing on that experience, he devised strategies such as installing electric fences to keep out palm civets, and gradually increased his success rate. “When you cultivate crops while nurturing microorganisms, it seems that problems caused by continuous cropping—such as vegetable pathogens and stunted growth—don’t occur,” he says, confident in his unique organic farming method.

It has been about 17 years since he became a farmer. With his eager-to-learn and determined personality, Mr. Otake has taken on the challenge of growing a wide variety of vegetables. He began by simply learning about farming, gaining experience through conversations with veteran farmers and receiving guidance, and gradually developed his own style through trial and error.

What Mr. Ohtake values most in vegetable farming is preserving traditional farming methods without using pesticides. However, he is by no means opposed to pesticides. He says that his childhood memories of fun experiences have influenced this perspective.

“I’ve always loved insects; I used to catch rhinoceros beetles and dragonflies. It used to be normal to see frogs in the rice paddies and insects in the fields, but perhaps because people started using pesticides, they disappeared before I knew it. Through my hands-on experience in farming, I’ve learned that it’s the soil that grows the vegetables. By changing how we prepare the soil, the soil microorganisms also change, leading to healthy soil. “When the soil is healthy, the insect population naturally increases. So, in fact, I get hints on how to grow vegetables from the insects themselves. I’m proud to show my children the fields where the insects thrive,” he says with a cheerful smile. He explains that, for insects, the fields are like a restaurant. Rather than selfishly using pesticides, he minimizes interference with the soil and gradually increases the microbial population through green manure. He has built his current farming style on the philosophy that “I am privileged to grow vegetables using soil that is home to insects.”

Overcoming the hardships following the earthquake, they are preserving agriculture with passion

While studying agriculture, Mr. Otake has also pursued his own standards when it comes to distribution. After exploring ways to deliver pesticide-free vegetables and rare, diverse varieties to those who seek them, he decided against supplying markets or agricultural cooperatives (JA). Instead, he has maintained a unique business model of selling directly to contracted retailers and restaurants, while also offering seasonal vegetables at his farm’s own retail outlet.

While Nikkei Farm may appear to have followed a smooth path in agriculture, over the past 17 years it has weathered the reputational damage following the Great East Japan Earthquake and the COVID-19 pandemic, overcoming numerous difficult situations where they were forced to discard the vegetables they had grown.

“Before the earthquake, about 80 percent of our sales came from supplying restaurants in Tokyo through a broker specializing in the foodservice industry, while the local market accounted for about 20 percent. However, due to the reputational damage caused by the earthquake and the nuclear accident, that 80 percent vanished overnight,” he recalls. Since even residents of Fukushima Prefecture were shunning locally grown vegetables at the time, his wife, Shiho, says, “When I think back on those days, I still can’t hold back my tears.” For a while, their daily routine consisted of growing produce only to throw it away, which took a heavy toll on them both physically and mentally. The company was operating at a continuous loss and was barely viable, but they were supported by the reopening of local restaurants and have been taking small steps toward recovery ever since.

“It was truly painful and difficult for about 10 years. However, while many people were forced to give up farming after the disaster, we resolved that we must carry on the agricultural traditions of Fukushima Prefecture and Koriyama into the future,” he says, expressing his feelings for his hometown.

At our farm stand, we sell fresh, seasonal vegetables grown with organic fertilizer.

Tucked away in a quiet residential neighborhood in Otsuki-cho, Koriyama City, the Nikkei Farm direct sales shop carries a wide variety of vegetables—primarily their own, but also those from other producers who grow delicious produce. The small shop is lined with colorful vegetables and rare varieties rarely seen elsewhere, bringing smiles to visitors’ faces. Grown without pesticides and using organic fertilizers, the vegetables are packed with the bounty of nature, boasting rich flavors and aromas. During the summer, in addition to edamame, zucchini, and green beans, colorful cherry tomatoes, beets, and “Kyomanju” (eggplant) make their appearance. The round, adorable salad squash and freshly picked corn are so fresh they can be eaten raw.

“Although it’s just a verbal recommendation, I introduce customers to several recipes they can enjoy using the vegetables we sell,” says Shiho, who runs the farm stand, with a smile. “It’s fun to talk to them directly, and I’m happy to be able to convey the appeal of our vegetables.” She adds that many people visit the stand after tasting dishes made with Nikkei Farm’s vegetables at local restaurants and wanting to try cooking with them themselves.

It’s as sweet as fruit. Corn you can eat raw

Nikkei Farm, which cultivates as many as 100 varieties annually, operates on a “small quantities, wide variety” model; however, even among these, its flagship product—corn—accounts for shipments of as many as 26,000 ears. During the three-month summer peak season, the farm harvests the corn every day around 3:00 a.m. and ships it while it’s still fresh and just-picked. This is because corn accumulates starch (sugar) overnight, and it is at its sweetest in the morning. In addition, corn harvested early in the morning has a higher moisture content, making it easier to maintain freshness and helping to prevent quality deterioration caused by the daytime heat.

At Nikkei Farm, corn is grown for about 10 days longer than usual, which concentrates the sweetness and deepens the flavor. The white corn variety “Pure White” maintains a high sugar content of 22.5 degrees, while the yellow corn maintains 21.5 degrees.

“We harvest the corn by feeling the top of the cob to make sure the kernels are firm, checking the base, and judging by the dryness and color of the silks,” says Mr. Otake, holding a cob of Pure White. He explains that by taking measures such as cutting the stems and reducing the number of leaves to prevent the corn earworm—a well-known corn pest—pest damage has been dramatically reduced.

“I recommend eating white corn raw. You can enjoy its juiciness and fresh sweetness. For yellow corn, cooking it slightly brings out more sweetness,” he told us.

I want to move many people with the taste of vegetables.

“I still have so many dreams,” says Mr. Otake with a smile. One of those dreams—which has become his own farming philosophy—is to move people with the taste of his vegetables.

He hopes to become the kind of farmer where parents and children don’t view eating or serving vegetables as a chore, but rather—just as children ask for candy—think, “The vegetables over there are delicious,” or “I want to eat that corn, so please buy some for me.”

“I believe that if I can convey the fun and message of farming through childhood experiences, the fields will continue to be places where vegetables are grown for generations to come. It also makes me happy when people say they’d like to visit the fields again.”

Furthermore, he notes that the current situation—where consumers take cheap vegetables for granted—is certainly not what farmers want, adding, “It’s also important for people to understand the challenges farmers face and change their mindset.”

“I’ve overcome many difficulties, but looking back now, I’m glad I chose farming. If there’s something I can do for others, I’ll do my best,” says Mr. Otake. Shiho, sitting beside him, nods vigorously in agreement. To continue seeing those smiling faces that say, “That was delicious!” they will press forward on their unique path in agriculture, finding fulfillment in their work every day.

The post Hideyo Otake of “Nikkei Farm,” which pursues delicious, seasonal vegetables using farming methods that are gentle on people and the environment / Koriyama City, Fukushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Koganezaki Farm produces more than 30 varieties of vegetables—including leafy greens, potatoes for processing, and seed potatoes—on one of the largest plots of land in the country. Its client list includes major corporations, and in 2025, its cabbage became the first in Aomori Prefecture to receive JGAP certification. The farm continues to demonstrate the true potential of locally grown vegetables and support the next generation of farmers.

Agriculture that embodies the spirit of Aomori, making the most of its vast land and convenient location

Koganezaki Farm, which operates on 500 hectares of land (equivalent to 100 Tokyo Domes), supplies over 30 varieties of seed potatoes—as well as potatoes, cabbage, daikon radishes, and other crops—to customers across Japan. Its client base spans from Hokkaido to Okinawa and includes major companies such as Calbee and Koikeya, as the farm continues to cultivate crops that take full advantage of Aomori’s unique soil and climate.

Beyond its scale and quality, the farm boasts advantages unique to Aomori. It was these advantages that caught the attention of founder Kimio Sasaki and three other farmers. They aimed to establish a sustainable agricultural business by leveraging the climate, which resembles that of Hokkaido, and the convenience of the land.

Farmers earning salaries comparable to those of office workers

Mr. Sasaki founded the company in 1976, when he was in his twenties. Concerned about the instability of the weather and vegetable prices, he and four colleagues discussed the idea of “whether it was possible to run a farm with a stable income, like that of a salaried employee,” and established a corporate entity. They believed this would allow them to expand their operations and reduce costs, and that any profits generated would translate into salaries.

From the very beginning, they adopted land-intensive agriculture. Land-intensive agriculture is a farming method that utilizes vast tracts of land and incorporates large-scale machinery and smart farming to improve operational efficiency. It also aims to mitigate the effects of crop rotation problems—where continuous cultivation of the same crop in the same field leads to changes in the soil environment and poor growth—by rotating crops. Their goal was to create a large-scale farm modeled after those in Hokkaido. One reason they envisioned a scale similar to Hokkaido’s was the similarity in climate. Many potato varieties thrive in cool regions, and Aomori’s significant temperature difference between day and night is said to be ideal for producing high-quality potatoes.

Furthermore, Aomori’s greatest strength is the ability to distribute produce via land transport. Since it is crucial to deliver leafy vegetables as quickly as possible—even by a single day—this gives them an advantage over Hokkaido when dealing with clients in the Kanto region. They planned to leverage these climate and distribution strengths to establish large-scale farms unique to Aomori.

With the characteristic drive and speed of young entrepreneurs, Sasaki and his team quickly found a plot of land and immediately launched their corporate farming operation. The land they found was on the hills of Koganezaki Cape in Fukaura Town, facing the west coast. They spent their days clearing the land from morning to night while intensively studying cash flow management. Although the instability of farmers’ incomes has always been a challenge, they pressed forward with the goal of resolving this issue and fostering the next generation of young farmers.

From “Profitable Farming” to “Farming That Doesn’t Lose Money”

They cleared the land and grew a variety of vegetables—including potatoes, carrots, melons, and watermelons—which they took to market, but the income didn’t meet their expectations. Compounded by cold snaps and other setbacks, they found themselves in a situation where they could barely make ends meet. Faced with a critical decision, Mr. Sasaki and his team chose to stop shipping their produce to the market. Rather than being at the mercy of market prices, they decided to set their own prices and sell directly to consumers. This was about six years after they had started their business.

One of Japan’s highest-quality seed potatoes

Along with expanding their customer base, they also began producing high-quality seed potatoes. Seed potatoes are potatoes planted for propagation; initially, they had been producing potatoes for processing, but the quality of the seed potatoes they used was poor, and they reportedly couldn’t achieve satisfactory results. That’s when they decided to start growing their own seed potatoes from scratch. The quality of the seed potatoes is crucial for growing high-quality potatoes.

However, it is often said that “growing seed potatoes is even more difficult than growing potatoes,” as disease management is extremely strict, and preventing infection by viruses and bacteria is an absolute requirement. Furthermore, thorough quality control is essential, including selecting a cool location with a low risk of natural disasters and maintaining sufficient distance between different varieties to prevent cross-contamination. Although it was a challenge in a difficult field, they persisted through trial and error, driven by a desire to protect the quality of domestically grown potatoes.

Among their strengths, their vast land proved particularly valuable. It minimizes the risk of cross-contamination even when planting different varieties of seed potatoes and helps prevent crop rotation problems.

Those efforts gradually bore fruit, and today, Koganezaki Farm supplies seed potatoes to potato farmers across the country. Since there are very few farms that cultivate such a wide variety of seed potatoes, it may not be an exaggeration to say that they are supporting Japan’s potato production.

“Koganezaki Farm has become so well-established that some people now associate the name directly with potatoes,” says Masahiro Higashi, the current President and CEO. “However, we also need to understand the characteristics of each variety and have facilities capable of air-drying and cold storage.” He explains that they are continuing to build a system for stable supply by collaborating with corporate representatives and seeking their advice.

A Legacy for Future Generations

“Last year, our cabbage for processing obtained JGAP certification. I believe this will help build trust among both businesses and consumers,” says Kazunori Okura, Senior Managing Director. JGAP is a Japanese agricultural production process management certification system, an acronym for “Japan Good Agricultural Practice.” It is a set of standards designed to reduce risks in agriculture—such as pesticide management, foreign object contamination, and workplace accidents—and to ensure the stable production of safe and reliable agricultural products.

The cabbage the company primarily ships for cut vegetables is the “Okina” variety, which is also used in shredded cabbage commonly found in supermarkets. Its firm leaves retain volume even when finely chopped for dishes like coleslaw, offering a crisp texture and satisfying bite. It is reportedly also used in the gyoza served by nationwide chain restaurants.

“Soil preparation is crucial, but given the size of the fields, it takes a lot of time. With large fields of about 18 hectares each, we have to make numerous passes with the tractor, so I’m considering whether we can automate that process using AI or similar technologies,” says Mr. Okura. While there are cost considerations, he explains that precisely because of the large scale, he wants to actively adopt drones (delivered on May 7, 2026) and machinery to build systems suited to the times and improve the farming environment.

Furthermore, the vast expanse of land offers the advantage of allowing him to experiment with various crop varieties. Although the onions he tried growing last year did not turn out as well as he had hoped, Mr. Okura remains enthusiastic: “There’s always a reason for failure, and I believe that if we can solve it, we’ll succeed. Someday, this might even become a major production area.” It may be this attitude—one of learning from failure rather than fearing it—that has allowed Koganezaki Farm to grow to where it is today.

The Future of Agriculture, as Envisioned by Mr. Sasaki

In fact, Mr. Okura moved here from Ibaraki Prefecture and decided to join the company because he was drawn to Mr. Sasaki’s vision. “I used to work in sales for about 30 years. But I came here because I was attracted to Mr. Sasaki’s character and his passion.”

Mr. Sasaki’s long-standing dedication to securing the future of farming and his tireless efforts to build a bridge to the next generation seem to have touched the hearts of many people. Although Mr. Okura passed away shortly after joining the company, it is said that Mr. Sasaki entrusted him with his vision, hoping he would pass the baton on to the next generation.

“There may still be challenges facing agriculture, such as labor shortages and an aging population. Nevertheless, I want to contribute to the development of local agriculture to help support Japan’s food supply and highlight the importance of domestically grown vegetables.”

The dream of farming that Mr. Sasaki envisioned has been firmly passed down to the current generation. The creation of systems that allow those who support Japan’s food supply to continue their work looks set to expand even further in the future.

The post “Koganezaki Farm”: Looking Toward the Future of Farming and Aiming for Profitable Agriculture / Hirosaki City, Aomori Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Misato Town is located in the northeastern part of Miyagi Prefecture. In this region, where agriculture is deeply rooted in daily life—with rice paddies and fields accounting for about 70% of the town’s land—”Butai Farm Co., Ltd.” operates large-scale greenhouse facilities for lettuce production. In addition to crop cultivation, production, and product development, the company also handles logistics and agricultural consulting, pursuing a diversified agricultural business model. By collaborating with farmers and companies nationwide, it has grown to generate annual consolidated group sales of 6.1 billion yen. Behind this success lies a unique management strategy that transcends the boundaries of traditional agriculture.

A long-established farm that has pioneered agricultural digital transformation, transcending the boundaries of a family-run business

The Hariu family has been farming since 1720. A major turning point came when Nobuo Hariu, the 15th generation and current President and CEO of Butai Farm Co., Ltd., took over the family business.

At a time when family-run operations were the norm, Nobuo recognized early on the critical issues of an aging farming population, labor shortages, and a lack of successors. He actively embraced digital transformation (DX) using cutting-edge technology and invested in new equipment. Through management decisions unbound by conventional wisdom, he laid the groundwork for a large-scale farm that transcended the framework of a family business. Behind this was a profound sense of urgency. Since joining the family business, he had worked long hours every day, thinking, “If things continue this way, will we ever achieve a sustainable model, no matter how long we keep working?” It was this realization that prompted him to fundamentally reevaluate the business.

“Sustainable Agriculture” as Envisioned by the 15th Generation of a Farming Family with a History of About 300 Years

“The 15th head of the family married at the age of 22 and succeeded to the family headship from the 14th head the following year. Given the custom among farming families that children typically live under the head of the household until around the age of 50, I think that was a rather early decision. ‘Just as the Tokugawa clan returned political power to the Emperor in the 15th generation, the 15th generation tends to mark a major turning point. That’s exactly why you must hold your ground,’ he was often told,” explained Nobuhiro Hariu, the 16th-generation head and a director of Stage Farm.

In the 1980s, when the 15th-generation head took over the family estate, agriculture was undergoing a major transition toward modernization. It was an era when individual effort alone was insufficient, and investment in agricultural machinery and facilities capable of supporting large-scale operations was essential. In fact, among the farmers who took the bold step of making significant capital investments and incorporating their businesses during this period, there are cases where they subsequently expanded their operations and achieved growth. On the other hand, it is also true that farmers who remained with traditional family-run operations found themselves in a difficult situation. Nobuhiro intuitively grasped the changing times and sought to strengthen the management foundation with the goal of “sustainable agriculture.”

The key to expanding the possibilities of agriculture lay in the “system”

The decline of agriculture stems from a complex interplay of factors, including weather, soil conditions, and a shortage of workers. None of these issues can be resolved by individual farmers acting alone. That is precisely why at Butai Farm, rather than simply continuing along the same path as before, we first envisioned what Japanese agriculture should look like five or ten years from now, and then worked backward from that vision to design our management strategies and technology adoption plans.

From Family-Run to Team-Driven: Behind the Scenes of Scaling Up

The reason Stage Farm was able to transition from a family-run operation to a large-scale farm was its ability to involve people outside the family and manage the business as a team.

They expanded their business by leasing land from aging farmers and entering into contracts spanning 5 to 10 years. Rather than simply securing land, they prioritized building trusting relationships with the local community and have worked to support farmers in incorporating their operations and developing new sales channels. The journey has not been smooth; through repeated dialogue—addressing contract terms and addressing concerns about the future—they have sought a sustainable model for the entire region.

Significant improvements in production efficiency through “management transparency” implemented by the 16th-generation leader

In 2020, Nobuhiro, the 16th-generation successor, joined Stage Farm. Nobuhiro began by teaching himself bookkeeping and accounting, and started by reading the income statement (PL), balance sheet (BS), and cash flow statement to gain an understanding of the company’s financial health. By making the company’s operations transparent, he identified tasks best performed by people, processes that could be automated, and areas for improvement, and took action on each one step by step.

Today, the company is implementing a series of initiatives to modernize agriculture, including the operation of “Misato Green Base”—one of Japan’s largest leaf lettuce production facilities—and the introduction of IoT and AI technologies.

“Misato Green Base,” which achieves approximately 80 times the production efficiency of open-field cultivation

Mr. Nobuhiro believes that agriculture falls into two categories: “agriculture that supports our daily meals—the agriculture we must rely on for sustenance”—and “luxury agriculture that offers added value for enjoyment.” Stage Farm aims for the former: to deliver the vegetables we eat every day with consistent quality and at fair prices.

At the heart of this endeavor is the “Misato Green Base,” a next-generation plant factory located in Misato Town, Tōda District, approximately 60 km north of Sendai City. Using hydroponics in a massive greenhouse stretching 500 meters deep, the facility ships approximately 40,000 heads of leaf lettuce daily, unaffected by weather or seasonal changes. Leaf lettuce is well-suited to automation and year-round cultivation in plant factories, making it a crop that easily balances consistent quality with high-efficiency production. Production efficiency is said to be approximately 80 times that of open-field cultivation. By studying domestic and international examples, Stage Farm has built its own unique operational model.

Thanks to planned production, the waste rate is virtually zero. Furthermore, by using electricity as the primary energy source and implementing solar sharing, they have established a system that reduces both environmental impact and costs. This facility, which balances stable supply with operational efficiency, stands as a symbolic presence supporting “agriculture that must be sustained.”

Generating electricity on farmland: The option of solar sharing

Agriculture is, at its core, an industry that converts solar energy into food. At Stage Farm, we have introduced “solar sharing,” a system in which solar panels are installed on poles erected on farmland. By establishing a system that produces both rice and electricity on farmland, we are transforming the land from “underutilized assets” into “income-generating real estate.”

Turning Agriculture into a Profitable Industry: Simple Management Based on Volume and Price

At its core, farming is a business. While family-run operations tend to rely on rough estimates, the “quantity × unit price” approach is essential for increasing revenue. Therefore, expanding farmland, adopting double or triple cropping, securing pricing power, and implementing rigorous cost management are all critical.

At Butai Farm, rather than leaving shipping entirely to the JA (Agricultural Cooperative), they set their own prices. They observe market trends and trading activities to understand the selling prices of various wholesalers. Based on this, they visit retail stores in person to negotiate prices and secure direct contracts. Regarding necessary expenses such as fertilizers, they constantly explore how to procure high-quality products at the lowest possible cost. Even for fertilizers that must be imported, they make every effort to minimize the use of middlemen.

To pass on local cuisine to the next generation

Nobuhiro, who has extensive overseas experience including studying in the United States, believes that “no country has a regional food culture as rich as Japan’s.” He feels a strong sense of urgency that this richness is being lost due to a shortage of people to carry on the tradition.

He identified four pillars necessary for passing on the region’s food culture to the next generation: energy, food, employment, and education. Building on the foundation of a “town where energy and food are reliably available,” the plan is first to create jobs, and then to provide distinctive educational opportunities. As a local agricultural producer, he is actively engaged in food and agriculture education, conducting special classes at junior high schools and other institutions. By teaching students about the structure of agriculture and business management, he promotes career education and is advancing a vision to build a town where people feel, “I want to come here.” Through the creation of systems—including energy sharing—he aims to make agriculture a profitable industry and speaks with conviction about raising the food self-sufficiency rate, which stood at 38% in fiscal year 2023, “to at least 50% or higher.”

Behind these words lies more than just a numerical target. It is a determination to create jobs in the region and build a future where the next generation can take pride in agriculture. Stage Farm’s challenge is not merely the growth story of a single company. It is a practical effort to pass on the region’s potential to the next generation.

The post Transforming agriculture into a profitable industry. “Butai Farm”: An agricultural enterprise nurturing the region’s future / Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.