At the foot of Mount Ishizuchi—the highest peak in western Japan—there is a type of tea said to have been introduced by Kōbō Daishi Kūkai. It is called Ishizuchi Black Tea. The Ishizuchi Black Tea Satsuki Association has carried on the traditional production methods that date back to the Edo period, and to this day, every step of the process is done by hand.

One of only four “post-fermented teas” in Japan

Mount Ishizuchi, the highest peak in western Japan. At its foot lies the Kurose district of Saijō City, Ehime Prefecture. Ishizuchi Black Tea, produced in this region, is one of only four post-fermented teas in Japan, alongside Toyama’s Batabata-cha, Tokushima’s Awa-bancha, and Kochi’s Goishi-cha.

Post-fermented tea refers to tea in which freshly picked tea leaves are immediately heated to halt the activity of oxidase enzymes, after which they are fermented using microorganisms such as lactic acid bacteria and koji mold.

Ishizuchi Black Tea, in particular, is characterized by a rare production method known as “two-stage fermentation,” which involves primary fermentation (aerobic fermentation)—where organic matter is broken down and fermented while exposed to air—and secondary fermentation (anaerobic fermentation), conducted in an oxygen-free environment.

“I’ve heard that, even on a global scale, Goishi-cha and Ishizuchi Black Tea are the only teas confirmed to undergo a two-stage fermentation process,” says Kumi Toda, chairperson of the Satsuki Association. This rarity played a major role in Ishizuchi Black Tea being designated as an Intangible Folk Cultural Property in 2018.

Handcrafted tea production in the mountains during the height of summer

At Satsuki-kai, they adhere to traditional production methods that date back to the Edo period, performing every step by hand. They remain committed to a tea-making process that has nothing to do with efficiency or mass production—one that relies entirely on the local climate and the passage of time.

Production of Ishizuchi Black Tea begins from late June through early July. The variety used is “Yabukita,” a representative variety of Japanese tea. Unlike sencha, fermented teas use hardened tea leaves known as “kowaba.” Consequently, the harvest period is later, and the work is concentrated from around the end of the rainy season through midsummer.

Workers manually cut the hard leaves—along with the branches—from tea bushes that have grown as tall as a person, bundle them together, carry them down from the mountain on their backs, and load them onto light trucks. Harvesting takes place from 6:00 a.m. to around 8:00 a.m. They reportedly harvest enough to fill three light trucks in a single day. It’s quite hard labor.

Primary Fermentation: Leaving It to the Mountain Microorganisms 

Once the tea leaves are brought down from the mountain, they are trimmed, washed, and then sent to the steaming process at the processing facility.

After the tea leaves are steamed, they are placed in wooden barrels for fermentation, where primary fermentation (aerobic fermentation) takes place. Natural microorganisms and filamentous fungi—oxygen-loving organisms that inhabit the barrels—take in oxygen, which drives the decomposition and fermentation process.

It is said that the microorganisms inhabiting a particular location determine the flavor of the tea. Even if the production process is identical, the flavor will differ depending on the location. That is precisely why Kumi is so committed to the traditional methods passed down through the generations. “As long as we call it ‘Ishizuchi Black Tea,’ the tea leaves, water, and fermentation site must all come from the Ishizuchi mountain range. This is one thing I absolutely cannot compromise on,” she states firmly.

After undergoing the unique rolling process characteristic of Ishizuchi Black Tea, the tea proceeds to secondary fermentation.

After the first fermentation is complete, the tea leaves undergo a rolling process before the second fermentation. “Ishizuchi Black Tea is the only tea among those that undergo a two-stage fermentation process that involves this rolling step. That’s why I believe it’s the most labor-intensive tea in the world,” Kumi says with pride.

Once the rolling process is complete, the tea leaves are transferred back into wooden barrels, covered with a lid and weighted down to prevent air from entering, and left to undergo secondary fermentation. This anaerobic fermentation, carried out by lactic acid bacteria that do not require oxygen, produces the tea’s distinctive tartness and aroma.

After secondary fermentation—which takes about 10 to 14 days—the tea leaves are spread out on straw mats and sun-dried. This process, which involves carefully turning the leaves to dry both sides thoroughly, takes another 2 to 3 days.

The Ishizuchi Black Tea produced in this way is delightful for its fresh, tangy flavor right after it’s made, but it’s also wonderful to enjoy the changes in flavor that develop as it ages for two or three years. “It gradually becomes mellower, and the sweetness increases. When I drank a 10-year-old batch, I was really surprised by how sweet it was.”

The Satsuki Association: Preserving a Culture on the Brink of Disappearance

Although Ishizuchi Black Tea is now referred to as the “phantom tea,” it was once a tea that was routinely produced and consumed in every household at the foot of Mount Ishizuchi.

However, as the population declined, that culture quietly faded away, and by 1996, there was only one producer left. “When talk arose that even the last remaining household was going to stop production, we felt it would be far too wasteful, so a local lifestyle research group took the lead in preserving the technique,” .

This is how the Satsuki-kai was born. Initially, the group was led by Kumi’s mother’s generation, who inherited the production methods from the last remaining household and began manufacturing through a process of trial and error.

Around 2012, Kumi and others—representing the daughters and daughters-in-law of the original members—took over production. Around the same time, research conducted by Ehime University revealed that Ishizuchi Black Tea possesses functional benefits, such as regulating digestion and boosting immunity.

Aiming to make tea an integral part of daily life, just as it once was

Ishizuchi Black Tea is not yet widely known throughout the country. That is precisely why the Satsuki Association is putting a lot of effort into promoting it in various ways. They have received cooperation from local pastry shops that are developing prototype cakes and cookies using Ishizuchi Black Tea, as well as from the women’s division of the Chamber of Commerce and Industry. The association is also actively collaborating with Ehime Prefectural Komatsu High School in Saijo City; students there have developed a jelly made with Ishizuchi Black Tea as a summer product. After repeated prototyping, they have even begun selling it.

“The high school students are taking on all sorts of challenges to help spread the word about Ishizuchi Black Tea. I’m truly grateful for that,” says Kumi, her face breaking into a smile.

In addition, the “Kurocha Daifuku,” created in collaboration with the local radio station FM Ehime, went on sale in September 2024 and generated a huge response.

This treat features Ishizuchi black tea powder kneaded into the mochi dough, enveloping a filling of lightly sweetened fresh cream. The surface is also generously dusted with Ishizuchi black tea powder.

Engaging Supporters Nationwide to Create “Everyone’s Ishizuchi Black Tea”

The Satsuki Association also participates in exhibitions held in Tokyo and other locations, working to promote Ishizuchi Black Tea nationwide. Coupled with the recent fermentation trend, the response from health-conscious consumers has been very positive. The connections forged in various regions have not only expanded the consumer base but have also provided valuable support to the production process.

The production of Ishizuchi Black Tea is entirely done by hand. As a result, annual output is limited to about 300 kilograms. Labor shortages are a constant challenge. However, in recent years, people from outside the prefecture who have experienced the appeal of Ishizuchi Black Tea at trade shows and other events have begun visiting to participate in the production process. In 2023, more than 120 people in total were involved in the production. “It’s no longer just the Satsuki-kai’s tea—it’s everyone’s tea. The connections forged through Ishizuchi Black Tea are a treasure that money can’t buy.”

Not only do visitors experience the entire process—from harvesting the tea leaves to steaming, fermentation, and rolling—but, driven by the desire for them to “take home lasting memories,” the team works together to extend a warm welcome. Between tasks, everyone enjoys chilled watermelon together, and they even take trips to try their hand at painting Tobe-yaki, a traditional craft of Ehime. Once you’ve experienced this warmth, you’ll undoubtedly want to come back for more.

Whenever they hold an exhibition, people they’ve connected with through past workshops or events rush to show their support. “We give a hand towel as a gift to everyone who comes for a workshop, and when they come to cheer us on with it tied around their necks, I’m so happy it brings tears to my eyes,” says Kumi. Tokyo, Chiba, Kanagawa, Kyoto… the circle of people brought together by Ishizuchi Black Tea is spreading far and wide.

Looking toward the future, we never stop moving forward

What can be done year-round to promote Ishizuchi Black Tea, which can only be produced for about two months in the summer? Kumi is constantly thinking about this. “I’ve never once felt satisfied with what I’ve done. I’m always thinking about what I can do next.”

Her ultimate goal is a future where Ishizuchi Black Tea is no longer something special, but rather something that blends seamlessly into everyday life—a culture that the next generation will naturally carry on. Weaving this vision together, the organization celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2026.

A cup of tea nurtured by Mount Ishizuchi and perfected by human hands. Ishizuchi Black Tea is filled with the memories of the land, the daily lives of its people, and the passionate dedication of the Satsuki-kai.

The post The Satsuki Association, which continues to preserve the legendary fermented tea known as Ishizuchi Black Tea, a tradition passed down from the sacred Mount Ishizuchi / Saijo City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Based in Morioka City and Shiwa Town in Iwate Prefecture, “Sun Farm” Ltd. produces fruit trees and rice. Guided by the philosophy of “doing things differently,” President Satoshi Yoshida cultivates a wide variety of apples, including rare overseas varieties. The collection includes a staggering 140 varieties—it’s practically an apple museum.

“Sun Farm”: Committed to Iwate, Starting with “Soil Preparation”

Iwate Prefecture is a major apple-producing region, second only to Aomori and Nagano prefectures. Its history of apple cultivation predates that of Aomori and Nagano; apple cultivation is said to have begun in Morioka City in 1872.

　“Sun Farm” is an agricultural corporation based in Morioka City—which boasts the highest apple production volume in the prefecture—and the neighboring town of Shiwa to its south. The company grows apples and other fruit trees, as well as rice. It was founded by a family of farmers whose lineage has continued in this region for generations, and is currently led by Satoshi Yoshida, the 11th-generation head of the family.

Under the concept of “Iwate from Soil Preparation Onward,” the company practices circular agriculture using compost and oyster shells produced within Iwate Prefecture. Its apples and rice have earned “Special Cultivation” certification, which requires that pesticide use be kept to less than half that of conventional farming. The company also operates tourist farms where visitors can pick cherries and blueberries; people come from the local area, the Tokyo metropolitan area, and even overseas to enjoy the harvest experience.

140 Varieties of Cooking Apples, Curated by a Former Trading Company Employee

Mr. Yoshida is originally from Joetsu City in Niigata Prefecture. After graduating from the Faculty of Agriculture at Yamagata University, he joined a trading company specializing in aquaculture equipment. Following his marriage in 1995, he moved to Morioka City—the hometown of his wife, Mika—and joined Sun Farm, a business run by his father-in-law. Starting with no prior experience, he plunged into the world of agriculture and dedicated himself to mastering cultivation techniques, while also working to reform the business by launching initiatives such as a tourist fruit orchard and a direct-sales operation.

Among his initiatives, he has placed particular emphasis on cooking apples. He cultivates approximately 140 varieties, focusing primarily on rare varieties with a strong tart flavor. “In terms of the number of varieties we handle, I believe we’re probably number one in Japan,” Mr. Yoshida says with pride.

I’m a relative newcomer to apple farming. That’s exactly why I want to do things differently from everyone else.

Morioka City in Iwate Prefecture was one of the first places in Japan to introduce “dwarfing cultivation,” and the adoption rate there is over 90 percent. “Dwarfing cultivation” is a method in which fruit trees are grafted onto “dwarfing rootstocks”—which naturally suppress plant growth—and trained to grow at a low height. The benefits of this method include easier cultivation management and harvesting due to the trees’ compact size, as well as the ability to grow high-quality fruit because sunlight reaches every part of the tree.

Although the area has a long history of apple cultivation, the orchard was not growing apples when Mr. Yoshida began helping out there. “Our family has been farming for generations, but we didn’t start growing apples until 2009. Compared to our neighbors, we were latecomers,” says Mr. Yoshida. That is precisely why he says he makes a conscious effort to focus on “doing things that others aren’t doing.”

“The JA cooperatives in Iwate Prefecture handle 22 varieties of apples. Most apple farmers grow one of these 22 varieties, and the apples they grow are lumped together with those from other producers and distributed to the market. I felt that made it hard to stand out and wasn’t very interesting. So I decided to compete on a completely different playing field, and starting the following year—2010—I began expanding our variety selection.”

Most apples grown and distributed in Japan are sweet varieties meant for fresh consumption, such as Fuji and Jonagold. Mr. Yoshida decided to “go in the opposite direction” and focused on varieties with a strong tartness that are well-suited for cooking. He believed there was significant demand, particularly among restaurants, for cooking apples whose flavor is enhanced when heated. Therefore, he set his primary target audience as chefs and pastry chefs and visited restaurants and pastry shops across the country to understand their needs.

“As I spoke with various chefs, I came to realize that the characteristics required in apples differ depending on the intended dish or use—for example, apples that don’t release much moisture when baked, or those that break down easily when made into jam. So I started by searching for varieties suited to each specific need.”

The 140 varieties currently grown include classic British varieties such as “Bramley” and “Cox’s Orange Pippin,” as well as “Calville Blanc,” which originated in France. While the focus is on foreign varieties, they also handle rare domestic varieties such as “Moon Rouge,” which originated in Nagano Prefecture. In addition, they have set aside a portion of the orchard as a test plot where they trial-grow new varieties every year.

“Many of the countries of origin for these foreign varieties have drier climates with less rainfall than Japan. It’s difficult to grow them in Japan’s hot and humid climate, and there are some varieties we’ve had to give up on,” says Mr. Yoshida. Rather than trying to forcefully overcome the differences in the fruits’ characteristics through technical means, he explains, “We select and grow varieties that retain their unique characteristics and subtle nuances even when cultivated in Japan’s climate.”

Furthermore, the farm is reportedly working on breeding its own original varieties, which are derived from the foreign varieties they currently grow.

These apples are primarily supplied to restaurants and patisseries, including three-star restaurants and renowned hotels. The company’s reputation grew through word of mouth from chefs who actually used the apples on their menus, following a steady sales effort that began by visiting each establishment one by one. In addition, apples that do not meet standard specifications are sold wholesale as primary processed products—such as peeled, sliced, or grated apples—for commercial use. This helps San Farm reduce food waste and also helps its restaurant customers lower their labor costs. In addition, the company now sells directly to consumers through farm-to-consumer e-commerce sites such as Tabechoku.


“When we ship to organizations like JA, the distribution system makes it difficult for our rare varieties to be properly appreciated. But with direct sales, we can leverage our strength in handling a wide variety of apples to meet specific needs,” says Mr. Yoshida. The company enjoys strong trust from chefs and pastry chefs, and currently, 90 percent of Sun Farm’s sales come from direct transactions.

Furthermore, participating in the national “Hometown Revitalization Global Project” gave him a firsthand sense of the demand for Japanese apples overseas. Since then, by partnering with a fruit-specialized distribution company, he has experienced in-person sales at shopping centers in Thailand and appearances on TV shopping programs, allowing him to truly grasp the potential of Japanese apples in the global market.

“Red-fleshed varieties, such as ‘Beni no Yume,’ are particularly popular. While red-fleshed varieties from overseas tend to be astringent when eaten raw, people are delighted to find that Japanese ones are much easier to eat.”

Apple Picking in the City Center? A Collaboration with “Hobonichi”

Sun Farm’s efforts in growing a wide variety of crops also led to a collaboration with “Hobonichi,” a company headed by copywriter Shigesato Itoi.

The “Maybe It’s an Apple-Picking Exhibition,” held annually by “Hobonichi” since 2021, takes place at Shibuya PARCO and offers a simulated apple-picking experience. Sun Farm provides a variety of apple varieties for this event every year.


At the venue, a wide range of varieties—from sweet to tart, and varying in size and color—are on display. Visitors can choose and purchase their favorite apples from the selection and eat them right there.

“We have many varieties on display that you rarely see in supermarkets. Children often eat tart apples without batting an eye. Even when parents try to stop them by saying, ‘That’s sour,’ the kids will reply, ‘I like this one.’ I’d be happy if people could discover the many charms of apples without being bound by the preconception or standard that ‘sweet equals delicious,’” says Ms. Yoshida with a smile.

Addressing Climate Change and New Challenges

Sun Farm has earned the trust of chefs and pastry chefs across the country, including those at renowned restaurants and patisseries. While the farm’s operations appear to be going smoothly, there are challenges. Among them, adapting to climate change is a pressing concern.

“In recent years, both apples and cherries have been plagued by heat-related issues—such as softening fruit and poor color development—caused by extreme heat. Rising temperatures in early spring are also a problem. Flower bud development is progressing faster than usual, causing the timing of blooming to coincide with late-spring frosts. Cherry flower buds, in particular, are vulnerable to frost; if the flowers die from frost, the trees won’t bear fruit. To address this, we’ve installed anti-frost fans and, on days when a cold snap is expected, we use the ‘burning method’—lighting fires to warm the entire orchard.”

Even if these efforts prevent spring frost damage, a prolonged heatwave in the summer is highly likely to cause heat stress. If global warming continues at this rate, cherry and apple yields will likely decline in the future. Anticipating this, Mr. Yoshida has reportedly begun cultivating heat-tolerant fruits such as peaches and nectarines.

I want to prove that “farming is profitable” and pass this on to the next generation.

“Farming is a process of trial and error,” says Mr. Yoshida. “And you only get one chance to try each year.” It’s been about 30 years since he left his corporate job to become a farmer. I asked him what kind of future he envisions at the end of this journey of challenges he’s built up one by one.

“I don’t mind if my own children don’t take over the farm. However, I want to establish a solid business model so that employees who are interested—or the next generation—can successfully carry on the legacy. If I can prove that farming is a genuinely profitable business, young people will naturally be drawn to it.”

Mr. Yoshida says that what he “wants to do most right now” is to open a café on the farm.

“I want guests who come for cherry or blueberry picking to be able to stay at the farm after their experience—to relax at the café or take a stroll and enjoy a leisurely time,” he says.

Now in his mid-50s, Mr. Yoshida says, “I want to be ready to pass the baton to the next generation in about 10 years.” So that apples can continue to be grown on this land, no matter how the climate changes or who takes over. Mr. Yoshida’s journey continues.

The post “Doing Things Differently.” “Sun Farm,” a one-of-a-kind orchard that grows 140 varieties of apples / Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The “Taragi Rice Fields Power Research Group,” a rice production team formed in 2017 by 11 rice farmers in Taragi Town, Kuma District, Kumamoto Prefecture, aims to revitalize agriculture throughout Taragi Town by fostering cooperation among farmers—led by its representative, Shinichiro Ogata—to cultivate high-quality rice under a unified brand.

I want to grow rice I can be proud of to repay the debt of gratitude I owe to those who came before me.

A deeply forested area in Kuma District, Kumamoto Prefecture, known as “Oku-Kuma.” Taragi Town, located there, was ruled by the Sagara clan of samurai from the early Kamakura period through the Meiji period. During their long reign spanning approximately 700 years, the Sagara clan constructed irrigation canals such as the “Hyakutaro-mizo” and the “Kono-mizo.” It is said that this improved agricultural productivity within their domain, allowing it to develop into one of Kyushu’s leading rice-producing regions.

In particular, the “Hyakutaro Ditch”—a massive, challenging project said to have taken 100 years to complete—stretches approximately 18 km in total length. While farmers were digging it by hand—with the entire community mobilized—the site was struck by floods numerous times; the ditch was ultimately named after Hyakutaro, who was sacrificed as a human offering. “The bountiful natural environment we enjoy today is thanks to our ancestors, who endured blood, sweat, and tears,” says Shinichiro Ogata. “To repay that debt, we must continue growing rice on this land.” Driven by the desire to “produce delicious rice that we can be proud of nationwide,” he took the initiative to form the rice production team “Taragi Rice Fields Power Research Group” in 2017. As the representative of the group—comprising 11 rice farmers in Taragi Town, Kuma District, Kumamoto Prefecture—he coordinates the farmers’ efforts while also cultivating rice himself.

To ensure the future of agriculture, the entire region must develop together.

Mr. Ogata was born into a farming family in Taragi Town that has been in the business for generations. He left his hometown for a time to work in sales in the beauty and hair industry. However, as the internet and mail-order sales became more widespread, he felt he had reached the limits of his sales career and returned home in 2009. By participating in the establishment of the local agricultural corporation “Taragi Nobiru Agricultural Cooperative,” he came face-to-face with challenges such as the aging farming population and a shortage of successors.

Consequently, while working as a staff member for the corporation, he sought to identify “what he could do.” Believing that “there are limits to developing individual farms alone; only by developing the entire region can we ensure agriculture’s future,” he became a founding member of the “Taragi Rice Fields Power Research Group.”

Subsequently, starting around 2011, the “Taragi Rice Paddy Power Research Group” invited Goichi Endo—a rice farmer from Takahata Town, Yamagata Prefecture, who had won the Gold Prize and Diamond Award for four consecutive years at the Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition—to serve as an advisor. Under his guidance, the group meticulously examined cultivation methods from seedling raising to harvest. By refraining from using chemical fertilizers and instead employing organic fertilizers based on fish meal, while implementing cultivation management based on scientific evidence, the group established a standardized cultivation method and resolved to strictly adhere to Mr. Endo’s teachings as a whole.

“Kometaragi,” a brand of rice that has won numerous competitions

The main variety cultivated by the “Taragi Rice Paddy Power Research Association” is “Nikomaru.” The association ships rice under its “Kometaragi” brand only after it has met its own strict standards—including a protein content of less than 7% and a minimum grain size of 1.9 mm as determined by sifting—as clearly defined in its shipping specifications. The lower the protein content, the fluffier and softer the rice becomes when cooked, and the more pronounced its sweetness. When the grain size is uniform, heat is distributed evenly during cooking. “Kometaragi” rice, which meets these strict standards, features large, satisfying grains with a sticky, moist texture, as well as a rich umami flavor and pronounced sweetness.

The group also pays close attention to the drying process. First, the rice is dried overnight through air circulation without applying heat to ensure uniform moisture distribution within the grains. Then, it is dried using heat to prevent variations in overall moisture content. In addition, the group has collaborated with designers on brand development, focusing on the logo and packaging design. They have worked diligently to enhance the brand’s appeal.

These efforts are evident in the “Kyushu Rice Taste Competition” (held in Miyawaka City, Fukuoka Prefecture), where municipalities across Kyushu compete based on the taste of their rice. At the second competition in 2018, Taragi Town stood at the top among 163 Kyushu municipalities, and has since gone on to win consecutive titles in the municipal division. The town has won the Grand Prix a total of five times, including four consecutive victories. Members of the research group have also won the Highest Gold Award in the individual overall category, further attesting to the high quality of “Nikomaru.” As the rice has also gained popularity as a return gift for the “Hometown Tax” program, Mr. Ogata feels encouraged, noting, “I think awareness of Taragi Town’s rice is gradually increasing.”

So that it can serve as a model for rice farming in Japan

The “Taragi Rice Fields Power Research Association” had previously established rules to ensure that producers did not deviate from standardized cultivation methods based on their own judgment, in order to maintain uniform standards. However, in recent years, the association has begun to broaden the scope of its activities by relaxing these rules—for example, by permitting the cultivation of new varieties such as “Pikamaru” and “Kuma-san no Kagayaki” in addition to “Nikomaru.” The group is also actively pursuing new initiatives, such as introducing sensors for water management and applying AI-driven moisture control to the rice drying process. This is because the group’s goal is “to pass on rice production in Taragi Town to the next generation,” and they believe that to achieve this, they must continue to evolve with the times.

Mr. Ogata believes, “If we continue to deliver Taragi Town’s rice to many people through the association, ‘Taragi Town Rice’ will surely become a household name in 15 years.” He adds that if successful, the association’s activities could serve as a model for rice cultivation in Japan, and the recognition of “Taragi Town Rice” would further help promote “Taragi Town agricultural products” as a whole.

“The Hyakutaro Canal was carved out by our forebears for the sake of agriculture in this land. It is said that the weirs were washed away time and again by repeated floods, and it took about 100 years to complete. In other words, it is an irrigation canal that can be called a regional treasure, built not over the course of a single generation, but across many generations. We must never forget that our lives depend on it,” said Mr. Ogata. He continues to look to the town’s past and future in order to draw out the full potential of Taragi Town and pass it on to the next generation.

The post “Kometaragi” is a group of 11 rice farmers from Taragi Town. Shinichiro Ogata of the “Taragi Rice Paddy Power Research Group” / Taragi Town, Kuma District, Kumamoto Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In 2021, lotus root grown in Chonan Town, Chiba Prefecture, attracted attention after recording a sugar content of 9 degrees—one of the highest levels in the country. The producer is Akihiro Kanesaka. Although he had experienced social withdrawal, he took up farming following the death of his father, who was a prominent figure in the industry. He established a natural farming method that utilizes the activity of soil microorganisms without the use of fertilizers or pesticides, and markets his lotus root under the brand name “Kanesaka Renkon.”

From a Reclusive Online Gamer to a Lotus Root Farmer

Located in the inland region of the Boso Peninsula, Chonan Town is a mid-mountainous area where valley paddies stretch along mountain valleys; it is a major lotus root production center in Chiba Prefecture, where agricultural cooperatives are also active. In Chonan Town, the Kanasaka family—spanning two generations—has been cultivating lotus roots and continues to bring a breath of fresh air to the lotus root industry.

Lotus root is the edible, swollen portion of the lotus rhizome, which grows beneath the surface of muddy ponds known as “hasuda.” During harvest, farmers wade into these muddy ponds and use a hose to apply water pressure, flushing away the mud and causing the lotus roots to float to the surface. However, since the conditions beneath the water’s surface are obscured by the mud, the work must be done by feel. In such an environment, the roots must be dug up without damaging them. “If you apply too much water pressure, it leaves bruises on the lotus roots,” says Mr. Kanesaka, explaining the difficulty of the task.

My father was a dedicated farmer whose name lives on in the name of a crop variety. 

Takasumi Kanasaka, Mr. Kanasaka’s father, is a well-known figure in the lotus root industry as a dedicated farmer who developed a new variety of lotus root. The first variety, “Kanasumi No. 1”—named after his own name—was registered in 1985. After further improvements with No. 2 and No. 3, the Kanasumi series now accounts for about 70 percent of the lotus root produced in the Kanto region.

While Takasumi developed these varieties with a focus on disease resistance, yield, and ease of harvesting, he says that “flavor” was his top priority. “My father was always looking for sweetness and a crisp texture. Ever since I was a child, my father’s simmered lotus root often appeared at the dinner table—but it never contained chicken. That was so he could check the flavor and texture of the lotus root itself.” Although Mr. Kanesaka grew up under such a father, he would actually go on to experience a period of social withdrawal.

My Days as a Shut-In Obsessed with Online Games 

Mr. Kanesaka had never originally planned to take over the family business. He studied programming at a vocational school and got a job at an IT company. However, the workplace had such harsh working conditions that several of his colleagues from the same hiring class quit. To take his mind off things, he became obsessed with online gaming and was eventually forced to resign. Looking back on that time, Mr. Kanesaka says, “It was a period of online gaming when I had given up on life. I had even become afraid to check my email or answer the phone.”

The turning point in his nearly three-year period of social withdrawal came with his father’s sudden death. “Since neither my older brother nor my older sister had taken over my father’s business, I started thinking about him a lot after he passed away. I guess I must have sensed the presence of a father figure from a young age.” At his father’s funeral, Mr. Kanesaka told his older brother, “Maybe I’ll be the one to take over the lotus root farm.”

Overcoming the Pressure of Being the Son of a Famous Father 

However, he said he struggled for several months over whether to actually take up farming. Having spent so much time as a shut-in, he lacked confidence that he could stick with it. “I was afraid people would say, ‘Kanesaka’s son started farming, but he quit.’” Precisely because his father’s presence loomed so large, the pressure to take over the lotus root farm weighed heavily on him.

Even after finally deciding to become a farmer, he found himself in a cycle of working for one month, taking three months off, then working for another month, and taking half a year off. “There were times I cried, wondering why I couldn’t push myself harder.” Amid these days of inner conflict, he came to realize: “If my sole purpose was to preserve the variety my father created, I’d never be able to surpass him, and farming would just be a struggle. I can only surpass my father by throwing myself into what I truly want to do and expressing my own identity.” Something she could become completely absorbed in and devote herself to. For Ms. Kanesaka, that meant taking on the challenge of naturally cultivating lotus root.

Nationwide top-class lotus root grown using natural farming methods

Because Nagaminami Town is characterized by a landscape dotted with valley paddies nestled among the mountains, it cannot compete with Ibaraki Prefecture—Japan’s largest lotus root production area, where the crop is cultivated on vast flatlands—in terms of work efficiency or yield. In the market, lotus roots from Ibaraki Prefecture—which enjoy high brand recognition—command higher prices than those from Chiba Prefecture. Given this reality, Mr. Kanesaka had been searching for a way for local agriculture to survive. The conclusion he reached was to produce high-quality lotus roots using natural farming methods and add value to them.

Organic Farming with a Focus on Microorganisms 

While interviewing elderly lotus root farmers about traditional farming methods, Mr. Kanesaka made an important discovery: about 60 years ago, farmers did not use pesticides or chemical fertilizers, but instead used fallen leaves from the mountains as compost. This discovery sparked Mr. Kanesaka’s interest in natural farming. As a first step, he chipped bamboo—which grew abundantly in the local area—to use in place of fallen leaves, adding it to the lotus fields to restore the soil’s fundamental fertility.

As he continued farming, he learned that some of Japan’s top lotus root producers were focusing on microorganisms. Mr. Kanesaka came to believe that the activity of microorganisms in the growing environment influenced factors such as flavor and resistance to pests and diseases. To maintain the balance of soil microorganisms and stimulate their activity, he gradually transitioned to natural farming—free of pesticides and chemical fertilizers. The lotus roots grew steadily, and he was able to harvest large, plump specimens. While acknowledging that “there is still much we do not understand about the role of microorganisms,” Mr. Kanesaka positions his farming method as “microorganism-centered cultivation”—distinct from “cultivation based on the use of fertilizers and pesticides.”

Lotus root with a sugar content of 9 degrees, among the best in the country 

The cultivation methods Mr. Kanesaka developed have been proven to produce excellent flavor, as confirmed by analytical results. In 2021, Mr. Kanesaka’s lotus root recorded a sugar content of 9 degrees—the highest level in Japan. Conversely, levels of nitrate ions—which are considered the source of bitterness and astringency—were kept low. This remarkable achievement, especially given that the sugar content of typical lotus root is generally around 6 to 7 degrees, attracted significant attention; his lotus root is now used as an ingredient even at hotels that have earned five Michelin stars.

He uses an online store to sell to the general public. Drawing on skills he acquired during his time as a company employee, he designs the labels himself. The product name, “Kanesaka Renkon,” was given to him by his online gaming friends during his time as a shut-in. He adopted it as his favorite brand name, representing lotus root infused with the “soul” he poured into it after overcoming past struggles and trial and error.

I want to continue taking on new challenges and help develop the local industry. 

Although Mr. Kanesaka has achieved success with his natural farming techniques for lotus root, challenges remain—such as crayfish, which had previously been controlled with pesticides, now causing damage to the lotus root—leading him to note, “There are still things I need to research.” Even so, unlike during his reclusive days, ideas for new projects he’d like to tackle are now constantly coming to mind. “Going forward, I’d like to move forward with initiatives such as hosting agricultural experiences for people who have been socially withdrawn and developing agritourism programs. In the long term, after developing processed lotus root products, I’d like to grow this into a regional trading company that safeguards local industries and employment.” We can’t wait to see what he accomplishes next.

The post Cultivating Lotus Root with a Sugar Content Rivaling That of Fruit Tomatoes: “Kanesaka Renkon” by Tetsuhiro Kanasaka / Chonan Town, Chiba Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kochi Prefecture is said to be the birthplace of “fruit tomatoes”—tomatoes with a high sugar content—and high-value-added, high-sugar-content tomatoes are produced and sold throughout the prefecture. In Konan City, which boasts the third-highest production volume in the prefecture, Majima Farm has successfully established a brand of “fruit tomatoes” called “Ushi no Megumi.” Mashima Farm is located near National Route 55, which runs through the eastern part of Kochi Prefecture, about 10 minutes from Kochi Ryoma Airport. It is a family-run dairy and vegetable farm where barns and plastic greenhouses stand between residential homes and fields. The farm produces milk, turns cow manure into “concentrated compost” for sale, and has been working to grow flavorful “fruit tomatoes” using that compost. Furthermore, using the same compost, the farm cultivates green papayas on abandoned farmland and grows pasture grass for animal feed, thereby practicing a sustainable, circular system of crop-livestock integration.

Building a cycle between dairy farming and agriculture, and dedicating our efforts to passing it on

Junichi Mashima, the farm’s owner, says, “Our family has been in the dairy farming business for about 60 years, ever since my father’s generation.” Twenty-six years ago, when his mother was hospitalized, Mr. Mashima moved back to the area from out of state with his wife and son to take over the family business.

They raise Holsteins, a breed specialized for milk production, and currently care for 35 head. However, the environment surrounding dairy farming is challenging, due to soaring feed prices and a decline in milk consumption in school lunches caused by the falling birthrate. “Dairy farming is becoming increasingly difficult for family-run operations, and there is a trend toward large-scale operations—such as ‘mega-farms’ and ‘giga-farms’—as well as increased use of IT,” says Mr. Mashima.

Amid these challenges, the Mashima family continues to find ways to create a circular system between dairy farming and crop farming while reducing costs—for example, by switching to self-produced feed. Today, Mr. Mashima primarily handles the dairy operations, while his wife, Mika—who holds a certification as a vegetable sommelier—is in charge of tomato cultivation, and their son, Sho, works alongside them as the couple’s successor.

Making “Dried Cow Manure Compost” (Highly Concentrated Type)

Since taking over the dairy farm from his father, Mr. Mashima has reportedly gone through a process of trial and error to find ways to make effective use of manure and urine, which are byproducts of dairy farming.

He wondered how he could take the composting efforts his father had started and develop them into a marketable product. He researched various methods, including reading books, and devised a unique technique: using a drying machine to reduce the moisture content of the manure and urine to less than 10 percent, then reusing the dried compost as a moisture-regulating agent.

“By mixing in the dried compost once it’s ready, we can adjust the moisture content and produce more high-quality compost. By repeating this process, we’re able to consistently produce high-quality compost without adding materials like sawdust.”

At the same time, with an eye toward sales, my father began growing ‘fruit tomatoes’ around the year 2000 to verify the effectiveness of the compost. He learned cultivation techniques from a relative who ran a tomato farm, and two years later, my husband and I took over the know-how. As a family, we conducted repeated trials, including optimizing the amount of compost applied.

“Once people started saying our tomatoes were delicious and they began selling well, the high quality of our compost was proven, and we were able to start selling the compost as well—but it took about five or six years to really get the business on track,”

It’s not uncommon for dairy farmers to produce compost. Generally, compost with a moisture content of 60% or higher is made by mixing manure and urine with rice husks or sawdust and allowing it to ferment. However, cases like Majima Farm’s—where dried manure is used to adjust moisture levels—are extremely rare.

Mashima Farm’s “dried cow manure compost”—an ultra-concentrated type consisting of 99.9% cow manure—is lightweight, easy to handle, and of high quality as a fertilizer. As word has spread, orders from farmers have increased, and they reportedly can’t keep up with production demand.

“We’re proud that even a small amount is highly effective as a fertilizer for crops,” says Mr. Mashima.

Start with large tomatoes and gradually cultivate them into high-sugar “fruit tomatoes.” 

To begin with, “fruit tomato” is not the name of a specific variety. Regardless of variety or size, any tomato with a sugar content of 8 or higher is called a “fruit tomato.” Small “cherry tomatoes” are often confused with fruit tomatoes, but “cherry tomatoes” is simply a general term for small tomatoes classified by shape. Unless they exceed the specified sugar content, they cannot be shipped as fruit tomatoes. Therefore, cultivation methods designed to increase sugar content are crucial. Generally, it is said that selecting smaller tomato varieties and growing them with restricted water intake makes it easier to increase sugar content, but Majima Farm has established its own unique cultivation method.

At Majima Farm, they use the large-fruited variety “Momotaro Fight.” They selected this variety after testing various types based on criteria such as flavor, tenderness, and skin firmness. They say the texture of the skin makes it enjoyable even for older people to eat.

“We’re still experimenting, but over the past few years, I think this variety has been the best fit for our cultivation methods,” says Mika.

The Mashima School takes more time than anywhere else

What sets them apart most is their philosophy of taking their time to grow healthy plants and then “slowly developing them to achieve high sugar content.” Because they take longer to grow their tomatoes than other farms, they sometimes receive inquiries from customers asking, “Other fruit tomatoes are already on store shelves—when will your tomatoes be shipped?”

While many farmers use “isolated cultivation”—which restricts root spread and strictly controls watering—to quickly increase sugar content and produce “fruit tomatoes,” Majima Farm does not restrict root spread. Instead, they take the time to grow healthy plants with strong root systems. Water restriction is also implemented gradually. Their commitment lies in the fact that they deliberately choose not to treat the plants as “fruit tomatoes” from the very beginning.

“To begin with, there are no seeds specifically for ‘fruit tomatoes’; we take large-fruit tomato varieties and cultivate them using methods that transform them into fruit tomatoes. In our case, we don’t use grafting; instead, we grow the plants so that the stems become thick and the roots spread widely. Furthermore, to ensure the effects of the compost last as long as possible, we apply a slightly larger amount of compost at the start. As a result, the plants initially produce large fruits. From there, we gradually restrict water to increase the sugar content. As a result, the tomatoes do end up smaller, but we produce tomatoes that are larger than average and have a high sugar content.

“I don’t find tomatoes appealing if they’re just sweet,” says Mr. Mashima. “I want them to have a tomato-like sweetness that comes from a balanced blend of sweetness and acidity, and I place great importance on the unique umami flavor derived from our homemade cow manure compost.”

トマトの目利きは、妻と息子

The sugar content is largely determined by the time the fruit begins to change color; as ripening progresses from there, the acidity transforms into umami, and the sweetness becomes more pronounced, resulting in subtle changes in flavor.

“As the sugar content rises, the flesh inside the tomato becomes translucent. Another indicator of high sugar content is a dark green line called ‘base green’ that appears at the stem end of a green tomato. The ‘star mark’ has become well-known, but we also use that as a guide while tasting the tomatoes daily to check their condition. When it comes to judging quality, my wife and son are simply in a league of their own,” says Mr. Mashima. His wife, Mika, continues:

“We divide up the task of assessing the tomatoes among the family. I do think we need to train the next generation, and if we were looking for uniformity, we could just use a sugar content sensor instead of relying on people. But we want to respond directly to the varying preferences of our customers. After all, we’re selling and interacting with customers face-to-face, so this is something we really want to cherish.”

As expected of Kochi Prefecture, known as a production area for “fruit tomatoes,” there is a lot of competition. Amidst this, Majima Farm meets customer requests with meticulous attention to detail.

A unique “diagonal training” method and the handcrafted work that supports 5,500 vines

Upon entering the tomato field, the first thing that catches the eye is an unusual cultivation method called “diagonal trellising.” This involves training the plants to grow diagonally while allowing the roots to spread freely. “We tried the hanging method, but we gave it up because the harvesting posture was too strenuous,” says Mr. Mashima.

With diagonal training, the harvest height rises as the plants grow, making the work easier. However, it requires an enormous amount of labor. All 5,500 plants must be tied with string, side shoots removed, and tended to daily. During peak season, the family alone isn’t enough to handle the workload, so they enlist help. This was the method he was first taught. Since then, for over 20 years, Mr. Mashima has spared no effort in continuing this tradition of diagonal training.

Furthermore, they have managed the temperature and humidity in the greenhouse not through computer control, but through experience and intuition honed over the years. True to its reputation as the “tropical region” of Kochi, it remains warm even in winter, with daytime temperatures ranging from 12 to 16°C. Moreover, while climate change has led to days when the temperature inside the greenhouse reaches 30°C, “We manage it with our own eyes and senses,” says Mika. Their refusal to cut corners and the experience they’ve accumulated over the years make all the difference.

Pest control involves “environmentally friendly agriculture,” which reduces the use of pesticides and utilizes natural predators. 

Furthermore, to control whiteflies—which damage tomato crops—they grew sesame alongside the tomato seedlings and collected seeds for the natural predator, the tobacco green stink bug. They planted cleome, the tobacco green stink bug’s host plant, to allow it to reproduce naturally and suppress pest outbreaks. They also practiced “environmentally friendly agriculture” aimed at reducing pesticide use. Kochi Prefecture stands out nationwide for its high level of awareness and active practice of this “environmentally friendly agriculture.” Led by the JA (Agricultural Cooperative), the region is promoting cultivation methods that do not rely on pesticides.

The “Ushi no Megumi” network, which spread through word of mouth among fellow vegetable sommeliers

The catalyst for expanding their sales channels was when Mika, the owner’s wife, earned her vegetable sommelier certification. A few years after moving to the area with her husband, Mika commuted from Kochi to Kagawa every weekend with five friends to earn her certification. The fellow vegetable sommeliers she met afterward—both within and outside the prefecture—showed their support by connecting them with restaurants and department stores and sharing their story on social media. Word of mouth spread in this way, and orders from outside the prefecture began to increase.

“Our customers bring in more customers,” they say.
For a family-run business with no time to go out and promote themselves, this has been a tremendous help.
Their greenhouse covers 25 ares. Although people ask, “Why not expand further?” they deliberately choose not to in order to maintain quality.

“25 ares is the limit we can manage properly between the two of us,” the couple explains.

Taste over scale. Their top priority is making their current customers happy. That commitment continues to grow their fan base.

Caring for cows leads to delicious milk 

Meanwhile, peering into the barn, I saw the dairy cows peacefully grazing on the grass. A calf looked over at me with curiosity. “Sakura-chan, Sakura-chaaan,” Mika called out. Apparently, every cow in the barn has a name, and she’s been telling them “You’re so cute” ever since they were calves. Even though keeping the cows stress-free is the number one requirement for producing delicious milk, Mika’s voice is as gentle as a mother calling out to her child.

The barn is equipped with misting systems and large fans to protect the cows, which are sensitive to heat. Their horns are cauterized and removed during early childhood to prevent injuries. Four times a day, each cow eats 25 kg of feed and produces about 30 L of milk. Breeding is also handled with great care. The first insemination takes place at 14 months of age, and the gestation period is 10 months. Milking is stopped two months before calving to ensure the nutrients go to the calf.

Furthermore, as part of a prefectural initiative, the farm cooperates with the embryo transfer program for “Tosa Akaushi.” Holsteins serve as surrogate mothers, supporting the region’s livestock industry.

To Surpass “Last Year’s Deliciousness.” A Family’s Ongoing Challenge  

The cycle in which compost from dairy farming nourishes crops, becomes feed for the dairy cows, and ultimately turns into delicious milk is what sustains Majima Farm.

At Majima Farm, the tomato harvest runs from December through the end of June. After that, they take a brief break before starting the next planting cycle, but Mika laughs and says that the period of tending the plants after planting is “the most fun.” Conversely, she says that once the harvest begins, the days become quite nerve-wracking.

“Up until now, we’ve made continuous efforts to improve our produce, and thanks to that, we’ve been able to build a loyal customer base. So now, we’re focusing on maintaining the same great taste as much as possible. My son is working hard on this, but in recent years, I’ve come to realize that managing the farm while anticipating future conditions is extremely difficult in the face of climate change.”

Mika adds, “The memory of ‘delicious’ in our customers’ minds becomes more idealized with each passing year. That’s why I grow tomatoes with the determination to surpass those memories—putting my heart into them so that customers will say they’re ‘delicious’ again next year,” she says.

Water management, adjusting fruit size, and meticulously assessing growth conditions with her own eyes every day—without relying on machines—are just some of the many efforts made to preserve the flavor. Combined with the “expert eye” that only a family can provide, these efforts will bring this year’s tomatoes to fruition.

The “cycle of blessings” created by cows, compost, and tomatoes will continue into the future, sustained by the power of the family.

The post “Mashima Farm,” the family that grows “Ushi no Megumi” cherry tomatoes—which attract orders from all over the country—/ Konan City, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Iseki Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. is one of Japan’s leading agricultural machinery manufacturers. Its founder, Kunisaburō Iseki, was born in Mima Village, Kita-Uwa District (now Uwajima City), a rural area known for producing delicious rice (Mima rice).

I want to free farmers from grueling labor

Ehime Prefecture is the birthplace of the company’s founder, Kunisaburō Iseki. The “ISEKI Dream Gallery” in Matsuyama City showcases the history and technology of Iseki Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. From a young age, Kunisaburō Iseki was involved in the family farming business. Farm work at that time was backbreaking labor, and he is said to have harbored a strong desire to “free farmers from grueling labor.” Amid an era of transition from manual labor to mechanization, driven by his passion for creating better products, he founded “Iseki Agricultural Tools Trading Company” in Matsuyama City in 1926. The first piece of agricultural machinery he developed was a “fully automatic rice hulling machine.” The company continued to contribute to the mechanization and modernization of agriculture, evolving into a business that supported postwar food production increases and Japan’s period of rapid economic growth.

Manufacturing from Matsuyama That’s Shaping the Future of Agriculture

In 1936, the company established a factory in Matsuyama City. Since then, it has developed and produced numerous agricultural machines that contributed to the mechanization and modernization of agriculture, supporting postwar food production increases and the period of rapid economic growth. In 1978, the Matsuyama Factory began production of large tractors. This factory, with its long history, continues to serve as the manufacturing division of the ISEKI Group’s agricultural machinery business under the name “ISEKI M&D Co., Ltd.” It serves as the core manufacturing hub within the ISEKI Group, providing manufacturing support for initiatives such as “Smart Agriculture” and “Environmentally Sustainable Agriculture.”

“As we transition from manual labor to mechanization, we want to build machinery that is truly useful. We continue to uphold our founder’s philosophy of ‘Let’s make quality products,’” says Masahiro Sakai, President and CEO of ISEKI M&D Co., Ltd.

The agricultural machinery manufactured by ISEKI M&D ranges widely from models for small-scale farms to high-output 130-horsepower tractors. The company handles a diverse lineup of products, including lawn mowers used overseas and ride-on maintenance machines that perform tasks such as weed control, pesticide and fertilizer application, and soil moisture retention. Because the company has established an integrated in-house production system—from parts machining to painting and assembly—it can quickly respond to the demand for a wide variety of products in small quantities, leading to the creation of products that are easy for farmers to use and affordable.

Smart Agriculture and an Integrated System for Vegetable Production Mechanization

The reality facing the agricultural sector is harsh. Due to the aging workforce and a shortage of successors, the number of workers is steadily declining. Tasks such as harvesting, planting, and crop management must be carried out intensively over short periods in accordance with the seasons and weather, making it impossible for the limited workforce to keep up. What is needed in these fields is agricultural machinery technology that can reliably ensure crop yields with minimal labor.

ISEKI is focusing on “Smart Agriculture,” which balances agricultural efficiency with environmental conservation. By leveraging the latest technologies—such as IT, sensors, GPS, and robotics—to enable operations tailored to crop conditions and field characteristics, the company achieves high productivity even with a limited workforce.

ISEKI also develops and manufactures tractors and robotic tractors equipped with smart agriculture technology. For example, GPS-based positioning assists tractors in maintaining a straight course within the field. This eliminates the need for operators to make frequent, precise steering adjustments, thereby reducing fatigue. Furthermore, robotic tractors contribute to improved operational efficiency by working in coordination with humans under human supervision.

In addition, the company developed “variable rate fertilization technology” in 2015, which adjusts fertilizer application rates based on field conditions. By minimizing fertilizer waste while reducing variations in crop growth and leading to stable quality and yields, the company aims to achieve both reduced environmental impact and improved productivity.

Around 1990, as mechanization advanced, the number of labor hours required for rice cultivation fell to one-fourth of what it had been in 1960, while the need for labor-saving measures in vegetable farming also grew. Compared to rice farming—where an integrated mechanization system involving rice transplanters, combine harvesters, and dryers was well established—vegetable farming at that time lagged behind in mechanization, creating a strong demand for reduced physical labor and labor savings. ISEKI is a company that has focused on developing an “integrated vegetable farming mechanization system,” beginning with the commercialization of the fully automatic vegetable transplanter “Nauel PV101.”

In fact, vegetable farming is characterized by significant regional variations in cultivation methods. Take green onions, for example: even when referred to simply as “long green onions,” the varieties and cultivation methods differ from region to region. There are also regional variations in ridge width and planting spacing, and ISEKI has developed machinery that allows farmers to adjust these settings to suit their specific region.

　Furthermore, the company has established an “Integrated Vegetable Production Mechanization System” by offering a full range of machinery and supplies compatible with a wide variety of crops, including daikon radishes, onions, cabbage, broccoli, taro, carrots, lettuce, edamame, green onions, and sweet potatoes. This system enables the consistent mechanization of the entire vegetable production process—from seedling cultivation to planting, management, harvesting, and sorting. This enables flexible adaptation to the production of multiple varieties in small quantities and to differences in growing conditions across regions, allowing for efficient farming operations with consistent quality even with a small workforce.

100 Years Since Our Founding: Connecting the Future of Agriculture Through Technology and People

Through continuous technological development aimed at solving real-world challenges on the farm, ISEKI holds approximately 2,200 patents, including technologies related to the development of agricultural machinery such as tractors, rice transplanters, and combine harvesters. The technical expertise the company has cultivated supports the evolution of smart agriculture and is transforming on-farm work into a more reliable and less burdensome process.

The new models manufactured by ISEKI M&D are a prime example of this. The company is also actively engaged in smart agriculture that leverages digital technologies such as GPS. These technologies support the agricultural know-how cultivated through many years of experience. For example, by having machines assist with precise tasks that skilled operators once performed intuitively, even less experienced operators can more easily perform work to a consistent standard. By using digital technology to pass down agricultural techniques—which have traditionally been handed down from person to person—to the next generation, the company is helping to address the shortage of workers and support the realization of sustainable agriculture.

Due to factors such as a declining workforce in the agricultural sector and the impacts of climate change, the number of workers on farms is decreasing. Improving efficiency and environmental considerations are essential. With the government’s “Green Food System Strategy” providing a tailwind, there is a growing demand for a shift toward sustainable agriculture, including labor-saving measures and organic farming.

ISEKI will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2026 and, as a company proud of its long history of technology and experience, is committed to addressing these challenges. The company develops large-scale, cutting-edge, field-crop, and eco-friendly agricultural machinery that balances labor-saving efficiency with environmental conservation. By expanding its range of eco-friendly technologies—including electrification—ISEKI supports highly productive and sustainable agriculture through high-quality agricultural machinery.

Furthermore, the company is dedicated to nurturing the next generation of engineers. We provide hands-on opportunities in design, manufacturing, and cutting-edge technology to hone problem-solving and decision-making skills, while also emphasizing the importance of learning from the technical expertise and wisdom cultivated over many years. The capabilities of the people and technology nurtured in this way directly contribute to agricultural efficiency and environmental consideration, supporting a more sustainable and prosperous agricultural sector. This approach to manufacturing—woven together by technology and people—will continue to bring new possibilities to agriculture.

The post Creating the Machinery of Our Dreams: A 100-Year-Old Company’s Vision for Agriculture and the Future. “Iseki Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. / ISEKI M&D Co., Ltd.” / Matsuyama City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Otawara City in Tochigi Prefecture ranks first in the prefecture for rice production. Among its producers, Masahide Akutsu of Akutsu Farm boasts a track record of awards at the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition” and has received numerous other accolades, including certification as “Toyo Rice World’s Best Rice 2022.” Given that rice from Tochigi Prefecture is not particularly well-known, why is the rice produced by Mr. Akutsu so highly regarded?

Land Suitable for Rice Production: Otawara City

Otawara City is located on a vast alluvial fan in the Nasu region of northern Tochigi Prefecture, known as “Nasuno-gahara.” It is home to the Nasu Irrigation Canal, one of Japan’s three major irrigation canals. The water flowing from the Nasu mountain range is groundwater rich in minerals. Thanks to this abundant water source, the area is well-suited for rice cultivation.

Of course, it’s not just about the water. The area has fertile soil, and its climate—with sufficient temperature and sunlight in summer to promote rice growth and winter cold that suppresses pest infestations—combined with a flat terrain that facilitates water management and allows for the development of large-scale rice paddies, has made it a prime rice-growing region.

The name “Otawara City” is said to derive from “O-tawara” (large rice bale), reflecting the fact that this has long been a region with a thriving rice production industry.

Rice from Tochigi Prefecture: High on the Rice Production Rankings, Yet Little Known

According to data on “Crop Conditions and Yields of Paddy and Upland Rice by Season (by Agricultural Region and Prefecture Nationwide)” released by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries in 2021, Tochigi Prefecture ranks eighth nationwide in rice production by yield. However, rice produced in Tochigi is not particularly well known. This is because the prefecture capitalizes on its proximity to the Tokyo metropolitan area, with rice for commercial use being the mainstay of its production.

Commercial rice refers to rice used in restaurant chains, convenience store bento boxes, and school lunches—not the rice sold for home use in supermarkets and other retail outlets. Although we have many opportunities to consume it, we rarely see the place of origin or brand name when eating it, which makes it difficult for “Tochigi rice” to gain widespread recognition.

In fact, according to 2017 data from the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, Tochigi ranked first among the top 10 prefectures with the highest proportion of sales for commercial use, with nearly 70 percent of its rice sales going to that sector.

A region that isn’t well-known but produces delicious rice

Mr. Akutsu grows rice in this environment. Since his family ran a farm, he began working in agriculture after graduating from college—and it’s been about 20 years since then. He has now succeeded his father, with whom he currently grows rice, becoming the fifth-generation farmer.

The turning point came about eight years ago when he entered the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Contest” for the first time.

Although Mr. Akutsu was aware of the competition’s existence, he had never entered it until then. However, he says he had a firm confidence that “the rice from this region is delicious”—and above all, that “the rice from my own farm, which I eat every day, is even more delicious!” So, upon learning that anyone could enter, he recalls thinking, “If I enter, maybe I’ll win a prize?” and submitted his entry with a lighthearted attitude.

However, in 2016—his first year of entry—at the “18th Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition,” he immediately won the Special Excellence Award in the “Prefectural Representative Rice Championship” category. He was particular about the Koshihikari he grew and had confidence in it. While he thought, “See? If I enter, I can win after all,” he also sensed the limits of achieving a top ranking with “Koshihikari.”

This is because Koshihikari is the most widely cultivated variety in Japan, so the number of entries in the competition is overwhelmingly high, with producers from all over the country flocking to submit their rice. Just as he was feeling that “it would be difficult to aim any higher with Koshihikari,” he began searching for “something else” on his own—and that’s when he discovered “Yudai 21.”

My Encounter with “Yudai 21,” a Variety Developed at Utsunomiya University

Around that time, the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition” began awarding the Gold Prize in the International General Category to a variety called “Yudai 21.”

Yudai 21 is a rice variety developed at a national university; it was created over a period of 20 years from a rice plant discovered by chance at the farm affiliated with the Faculty of Agriculture at Utsunomiya University in Tochigi Prefecture, and was registered as a variety in 2010. Although it is considered difficult to cultivate—as the plants grow tall and are prone to lodging, and fertilizer and water management require delicate care and technical skill—it truly shines in environments where careful attention can be given, such as in mid-mountainous areas, and is a variety capable of achieving yields and quality on par with or exceeding those of Koshihikari. Furthermore, Yudai 21 has a strong sweetness and a rich, distinctive flavor, leading us to intuitively recognize its potential for acceptance among general consumers. Consequently, we decided to begin cultivating Yudai 21 the following year (2017).

Initiatives Undertaken Before the Creation of Yudai 21

Even before establishing Yudai 21, Mr. Akutsu had become increasingly determined to “grow rice without using pesticides” and had been working toward pesticide-free cultivation. He says this effort was inspired by his desire to help alleviate his family’s allergies.

Pesticide-free cultivation—which involves the arduous task of weeding—took some time to gain the understanding of his father, the previous generation of farmers, but by starting with a small plot of land, he gradually earned his father’s approval.

Yudai 21 is also adopting pesticide-free farming practices

Given this background, Yudai 21 began cultivation on 3 tanbo (roughly the size of 12 tennis courts) without using any pesticides.

The farm gradually increased its production, and by the fourth year of cultivation, it was growing Yudai 21 on more than half of the approximately 4 hectares dedicated to rice for staple food consumption.

Why Is “Yudai 21,” Made by Mr. Akutsu, So Delicious?

Yudai 21 is characterized by its large, glossy grains and attractive appearance. When tasted, it is praised for its rich umami flavor and well-balanced taste, with a sweetness that becomes more pronounced the more you chew.

Demand has been growing year by year as people who have actually tasted it say it’s “delicious,” and Akutsu Farm is reportedly expanding its cultivation area every year.

Why “Akutsu Farm” Was Chosen, Even Among Highly Rated Varieties

As mentioned earlier, Otawara City, where Akutsu Farm is located, is an ideal region for growing rice. It is said that when nighttime temperatures drop, the rice absorbs nutrients that enhance its flavor and transports them to the ears.

Akutsu Farm is surrounded by mountains and sits at an elevation of 200 meters. The significant temperature difference between day and night is believed to influence the flavor. Additionally, water is drawn into the rice paddies from the nearby Sabi River; for about 4 km upstream from Akutsu Farm, this river flows underground. As a result, the water can be drawn into the paddies while it is still cold, and this low water temperature helps lower the nighttime air temperature, which is said to further enhance the flavor.

Furthermore, Akutsu Farm’s rice paddies are situated on a river floodplain, where the soil is rich in minerals and highly fertile—a factor that likely makes the already delicious “Yudai 21” even more flavorful.

Pesticide-free cultivation has maximized the potential of Yudai 21

But that’s not all. Mr. Akutsu’s commitment to pesticide-free farming is likely another reason.

He says the most difficult part of pesticide-free farming is weed control.

To make weed control possible, he spaces the plants farther apart so that weeds can be removed from both the front and back. While typically 50 seedlings are planted per tsubo, the pesticide-free “Yudai 21” variety uses a “37-seedling-per-tsubo” planting method, reducing the number of plants by about 40 percent.

With this sparse planting method, the wider spacing between plants creates a V-shaped space where the ears of rice spread out, allowing sunlight to reach even the leaves at the base of the plants. Additionally, because nutrients are distributed more evenly, the ears are more likely to grow large.

Furthermore, the improved airflow between plants makes it harder for diseases such as “rice blast” and “sheath blight” to take hold, resulting in the production of robust rice plants.

Of course, no herbicides are used; instead, natural substances such as yeast, natto bacteria, and lemongrass extract—which repels insects—are sprayed to achieve pesticide-free cultivation. Even so, depending on the season, Mr. Akutsu enters the rice paddies every day to weed by hand.

Mr. Akutsu’s “Yudai 21,” cultivated with great care and effort, has earned high praise and is supplied to stores such as Mitsukoshi, Isetan, and The Ritz-Carlton Nikko. In 2025, it began being carried by “the rice factory,” a specialty store for Japanese rice with locations in New York and Los Angeles.

Demand for pesticide-free rice is particularly high overseas, and Mr. Akutsu’s efforts are highly regarded.

“Yudai 21” has been highly acclaimed since its first year of cultivation

Yudai 21, produced by Akutsu Farm, won the Gold Award in the Prefectural Division of the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition” in its very first year of production.

The following year, it received the Special Excellence Award in the International Comprehensive Division—the competition’s highest category—and in its fourth year, at the “23rd Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition,” it won the Gold Award in the International Comprehensive Division. From among the brown rice varieties that won Gold Awards at the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition,” this rice was certified as part of the “Toyo Rice World’s Best Rice 2022” program—organized by Toyo Rice, a comprehensive rice manufacturer famous for its “Kinme Rice”—which carefully selects the highest-grade brown rice based on its own criteria emphasizing “deliciousness and vitality.” As a result, the farm became one of only four producers nationwide to be selected as a supplier of raw rice for the world’s best rice.

The Evangelist of Yudai 21

It is reported that Utsunomiya University—the creator of “Yudai 21”—plans to partner with municipalities and other entities to use “Yudai 21” for town revitalization efforts.

Mr. Akutsu has been appointed as the “Yudai 21 Evangelist” by Utsunomiya University and will be responsible for sharing cultivation methods and other knowledge with local farmers.

It would be wonderful if “Yudai 21” served as a catalyst for raising the profile of Tochigi-grown rice nationwide, leading to increased attention for all rice produced in Tochigi Prefecture—regardless of variety.

To that end, Mr. Akutsu—embracing both the title and responsibility of “ambassador”—continues his outreach efforts today, hoping that people will “try ‘Yudai 21,’ a rice variety with a unique flavor unlike any other.”

The post Masahide Akutsu of “Akutsu Farm,” Who Grows Rice Using the “Yudai 21” Variety Developed in Tochigi / Otawara City, Tochigi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In the mountainous region of Yabakei Town in northern Oita Prefecture—where rugged rocky mountains and clear streams intertwine—lush green tea fields stretch out. Tetsuya Kawatani, the second-generation owner of “Kawatani-en Tea Farm,” oversees every aspect of the business here, from tea cultivation to sales. He was the first person west of Shizuoka to be awarded the title of “Tea Sage” and is recognized as a leading figure in Oita’s tea industry.

Cultivating tea on mountain land as part of a government initiative

The history of tea production at Kawatani-en began in Showa 49. Originally, Mr. Kawatani’s grandfather primarily engaged in mountain work, such as charcoal burning and shiitake mushroom cultivation. Then, around the time his father took over the family business, a government initiative led to the introduction of tea cultivation. Recognizing that the mountain work of his grandfather’s generation yielded low profits, Mr. Kawatani’s father began cultivating the newly cleared land, which marked the start of the family’s involvement in the tea industry. Initially, they cultivated only three or four varieties, including “Yabukita,” which accounts for approximately 70 to 80 percent of Japan’s tea fields. However, after Mr. Kawatani entered the industry and studied tea varieties extensively, he began sourcing various cultivars. As a result, the farm now cultivates a total of eight varieties: seven main varieties—Saemidori, Asatsuyu, Asanoka, Harumidori, Yabukita, Okumidori, and Sakimidori—plus a small amount of Benifuki.

The Challenge to “Asatsuyu,” Which Even Experts Vehemently Opposed

Among them, there is one variety that symbolizes Mr. Kawatani’s passion for tea cultivation. It is “Asatsuyu,” also known as “Natural Gyokuro” for its overwhelming umami and vivid green color. To experts, growing this extremely delicate and cold-sensitive variety in Yabakei—where winters are bitterly cold—seemed “reckless,” and he reportedly faced fierce opposition even from the researchers at the experimental station. Nevertheless, Mr. Kawatani believed in the potential of tea nurtured by Yabakei’s natural environment and took that first step.

“My father was still in good health at the time, but the fact that the professor flatly told us, ‘It’s impossible,’ actually ignited our rebellious spirit—that was one of the reasons we decided to go ahead with cultivation,” says Mr. Kawatani.

Kawatani-en is located at an elevation of approximately 550 meters. While areas with significant temperature fluctuations between day and night are considered ideal for tea cultivation, if it gets so cold that frost sets in, the leaves will be ruined. Kawatani-en lies right on the edge of that ideal range, and the tea plants do occasionally suffer frost damage. However, Mr. Kawatani explains, “Tea leaves grown in harsh environments develop into mellow, fragrant buds of exceptional quality.” The characteristic of Asatsuyu tea—its sensitivity to cold—can also be viewed as the potential to accumulate incredible sweetness and richness once it survives a harsh winter. Adversity, in other words, gives rise to the depth of its flavor.

A Commitment to Fertilizers That Build on Tradition and Have Evolved Through Science

Alongside his exploration of tea varieties, Mr. Kawatani has devoted his efforts to soil cultivation. Good soil is essential for growing high-quality tea. And while fertilizer—which provides nutrients—is indispensable for creating good soil, in his father’s day, perilla seed cake, rapeseed meal, and fish meal were each spread separately on the fields, and a nitrogen fertilizer called ammonium sulfate was applied separately to promote new growth. However, as the cultivation area expanded and Mr. Kawatani took sole responsibility for fertilization, he realized the difficulty of handling everything separately. That’s when he came up with the idea of mixing all the materials together from the start to create a single fertilizer. Around the same time, his father told him, “You can do whatever you like with the fertilizer’s ingredients,” which served as a turning point, and about five years ago, he took the plunge into creating his own blend.

The formula Mr. Kawatani arrived at incorporates two major innovations. The first is the use of fish meal and bone meal—which contain fish innards and bones—instead of the conventional fish trimmings. He explains that this is to infuse the soil with complex minerals and umami compounds. The second is the addition of liquid nitrogen at –196°C to the fertilizer to supplement the nitrogen essential for plant growth. The result is Mr. Kawatani’s unique blended fertilizer, composed almost entirely of organic materials.

Furthermore, he has incorporated “Soluble,” a liquid fertilizer, to promote the sprouting of new tea buds. Soluble is an organic liquid fertilizer rich in minerals and amino acids, made by concentrating fish broth. Mr. Kawatani says he feels the depth and richness of the tea’s flavor have changed compared to the ammonium sulfate he used previously. “However, Soluble does have a strong odor. Since it’s made from simmered fish broth, if it gets on your skin, it won’t come off no matter how much you wash it for about two days. If it gets on your hands, the taste is so strong that everything you eat will taste like it,” Mr. Kawatani said with a laugh.

While cherishing tradition, each cup of tea from Kawatani-en—refined through scientific curiosity—embodies the harsh climate of Yabakei and Mr. Kawatani’s unwavering determination to overcome its challenges.

The Art of Hand-Kneading: A Dedication to Continuity

Kawatani-en also offers hand-rolled tea. This hand-rolled tea, which is produced entirely by hand without the use of any machinery, is said to have been devised in the mid-Edo period by Nagatani Sōen, a tea merchant from Uji, Kyoto. The process takes approximately six hours: after steaming the tea leaves to soften them, the tea master stands for the entire duration, manually loosening, rolling, and kneading the leaves before drying them to complete the process. The finished tea leaves are long and slender, like needles, and because they are not subjected to excessive force by machines, they are said to return to their original shape when placed in hot water. The color of the brewed tea is extremely pale, and while a milky white hue is considered the highest quality for hand-rolled tea, when sipped, a rich umami flavor spreads across the palate that is unimaginable given its pale color. Due to the labor-intensive nature of the process, mass production is impossible, and because it requires highly skilled craftsmanship—leading to a dwindling number of tea rollers—hand-rolled tea commands an extremely high price when it reaches the market.

Mr. Kawatani first encountered hand-rolled tea at the age of 19, after graduating from high school, while training as an intern at the National Research Institute of Agricultural Sciences. One of his fellow trainees there was Tsuyoshi Nakajima, who would later win the national hand-rolled tea competition eight times and become the first person in Japan to be awarded the title of “Perpetual Tea Master.” The two men, who were the same age, honed their skills through friendly competition, and eventually, Mr. Kawatani also began competing in the contest. In 2011, he won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award (First Place) and was awarded the title of “Tea Sage”—the first person from west of Shizuoka to receive this honor.

Why does Mr. Kawatani continue to produce hand-rolled tea, a labor-intensive process that cannot be mass-produced? The answer lies in his regrets from the past. He has missed the competition twice. The first time was when he suffered a sudden back spasm on the morning of the hand-rolling event; the second was when he began to feel a sense of resignation about continuing the practice. However, Mr. Kawatani says that for every moment of relief he felt from skipping the competition, he felt about 50 to 60 moments of regret, thinking, “I really should have participated after all.” It’s not about the results of the competition; it’s about doing the hand-rolling to intuitively confirm the quality of that year’s tea—the fact that skipping the competition actually made him realize the true significance of hand-rolling is what continues to drive Mr. Kawatani toward hand-rolled tea to this day.

“Tea that truly tastes like tea”—all in a single cup

In addition to hand-rolled tea, Kawatani-en offers a wide range of products, including sencha, deep-steamed tea, and hojicha—many of which were developed in response to customer feedback.

The flavor Mr. Kawatani strives for is “tea that truly tastes like tea.” When people talk about “delicious tea,” they often tend to focus on teas with a strong sweetness, and many people in general also describe such sweet teas as “delicious.” Mr. Kawatani himself once went through a phase where he relentlessly pursued sweetness, as if to respond to that sentiment. However, he could not shake his doubts about continuing to compete in that market, so he changed his approach. He sought a flavor that was not merely sweet, but also featured a crisp astringency and a refreshing finish. Setting that taste as his ideal, he arrived at the premium deep-steamed tea “Midori.” “Midori” is also the first tea he processes each year. Since he compares it with the previous year’s batch to find a blend that satisfies him, it takes at least two weeks from the time the new tea leaves are picked until the product is ready for sale. In today’s world of advanced logistics, where tea shops near the production areas can sometimes have products on the shelves just 3 to 5 days after picking, two weeks may seem extremely long—but it is the very embodiment of Mr. Kawatani’s dedication.

On the other hand, despite having long decided “not to make it,” there are some products we’ve added to our lineup after giving in to customer requests. One such product is genmaicha. While green tea is typically sold in packages of 50g or 100g, genmaicha is often sold in large quantities, such as 500g or 1kg. With that much on hand, once you buy genmaicha, you end up drinking nothing but genmaicha for quite a while, and your opportunities to drink green tea decrease—in Mr. Kawatani’s words, you get stuck in a “negative genmaicha loop.” Although he had maintained a firm stance against making genmaicha out of concern for this, after receiving passionate requests, he came to the conclusion, “Why not just use the brown rice we grow ourselves?” and decided to produce it.

The result is a product named “my Genmai.” What surprises you when you open the bag is that there isn’t a single green tea leaf inside. Literally, it contains “nothing but brown rice” that has been carefully roasted until fragrant and crisp. He deliberately avoids mixing it with green tea. This “aesthetics of subtraction” has created a level of freedom that overturns conventional wisdom about genmaicha. If you want to enjoy it as genmaicha, you’ll need to prepare the green tea yourself. With “my Genmai,” Mr. Kawatani’s concern that “people will drink less green tea once they start drinking genmaicha” has been resolved. Furthermore, by proposing new ways to use it—such as in salads or ochazuke (rice topped with tea) instead of croutons or rice crackers—the product has effortlessly transcended the traditional image of genmaicha. He has also developed a stick-type powdered genmaicha that dissolves in both hot water and cold water, which has also been well received.

Powdered tea is being adopted by gelato shops in Tokyo and chiffon cake classes in Chiba, among other places, leading to the development of a new consumer base that extends beyond simply drinking it. “The fact that it’s not limited to just drinking makes me feel that tea is still a product with a lot of potential,” Mr. Kawatani said, his eyes narrowing in a smile.

I want to raise the level of play in Kyushu and develop young players.

When it comes to famous tea-producing regions, Shizuoka and Sayama (in Saitama Prefecture) are the first places that come to mind. The name “Oita” rarely comes to the forefront. Mr. Kawatani candidly admits that if he were growing tea in the heart of one of those major producing regions, he wouldn’t stand a chance against the competition. “I’m confident that, in Kyushu today, I’m the only one capable of producing hand-rolled tea of this caliber. However, when it comes to national tea competitions, there are times when I simply can’t compete. At times like that, I’m painfully aware of just how far Kyushu still has to go,” says Mr. Kawatani. Of course, Kyushu does have cities like Yame and Ureshino that rank highly in national tea competitions. However, that’s in categories other than hand-rolled tea. When it comes to hand-rolled tea, they fall far short of regions like Sayama. 

That is precisely why Mr. Kawatani is so committed to raising the standard of tea production in Kyushu and nurturing the next generation of tea makers. To enter tea competitions, one must belong to a national organization, but since Oita Prefecture lacks such an organization, Mr. Kawatani himself belongs to an organization based in Yame, Fukuoka Prefecture. There is a young person in Yame who is currently developing his skills. A project to revitalize the Kyushu hand-rolled tea community—a collaboration between Mr. Kawatani and this young person—is now getting underway. Mr. Kawatani earnestly envisions a future where each prefecture in Kyushu nurtures one tea producer capable of making a name for themselves nationwide, and where Kyushu producers consistently win top prizes at tea competitions.

Hearing the words “That’s delicious” fills me with energy

My father, the founder of Kawatani-en, passed away in 2022. While he was alive, he had a goal of “doing what I can at 80 percent effort,” but now that I’m handling the family business entirely on my own, I’ve come to realize all too well that I have to give 100 or even 120 percent just to keep up. It’s by no means easy. However, every time I hear fellow industry professionals or customers say, “Kawatani-en’s tea is delicious,” I feel a surge of energy. The market is changing rapidly, and there’s no single “right” path, but he will continue to experiment flexibly—including with flavor profiles. Mr. Kawatani describes this mindset as “the battle continues until the tea reaches the customer’s mouth.”

The reality is that, under pressure from bottled green tea drinks, an increasing number of tea producers are giving up on selling loose tea leaves and shifting toward factories dedicated to beverage production. However, Mr. Kawatani takes issue with this trend. “I went to school and studied tea in depth, didn’t I?” he says. Unlike vegetables, the retail price of tea is unlikely to experience a major collapse. If that’s the case, there must be a way for the farmers who grow the tea leaves—not the wholesalers or company presidents—to turn a profit. He has consistently maintained this view, calling on his colleagues: “There must still be a way for producers to succeed. Let’s figure it out.”

During a training program after high school graduation, he and his classmates joked about a shared dream: “Let’s make it big enough that we can all drive Mercedes-Benzes to our class reunion.” It has been about 25 years since then. That dream has now deepened into a desire to “make money together, be happy together, and bring happiness to everyone around us as well.” He wants to bring happiness to people through tea production. Mr. Kawatani’s tea continues to be produced today in the mountain tea fields, born from that very passion.

The post The simple phrase “It’s delicious” is what drives his tea cultivation. Tetsuya Kawatani of “Kawatani-en Tea Farm,” Nakatsu City, Oita Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Yamada Town is located roughly in the center of Iwate Prefecture’s coastline. Because it faces the Pacific Ocean, it is strongly associated with fishing, but the town is also known for its log-grown shiitake mushrooms, and almost every year, farmers from the town have won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award at national competitions. Eizo Haga, one of only a handful of renowned experts in this field nationwide, is considered a pioneer in the cultivation of log-grown shiitake mushrooms in Yamada Town.

A cool climate and lush mountains nurture log-grown shiitake mushrooms

Yamada Town, located in Shimohei District, Iwate Prefecture, is a town embraced by nature, with the Pacific Ocean to the east and the Kitakami Mountains stretching to the west. Because the mountains are rich in broadleaf trees such as beech, oak, and red pine, the area is ideal for growing shiitake mushrooms on logs, and shiitake cultivation is thriving here. Since log-grown shiitake mushrooms prefer locations that are sheltered from direct sunlight, well-ventilated, and have moderate humidity, the mountainous forest environment—where vegetation provides shade, the cool climate at higher elevations, and the moisture released by trees’ respiration help maintain optimal conditions—is ideal.

Incidentally, shiitake mushrooms are classified as “log-grown shiitake” or “substrate-grown shiitake” depending on the cultivation method, and most fresh shiitake mushrooms sold in supermarkets are substrate-grown. The reason for this is that substrate-grown shiitake are cultivated by artificially adding nutrients to blocks of compressed sawdust, allowing them to be harvested in 3 to 6 months—a growth rate nearly four times faster than that of log-grown shiitake. Furthermore, as long as the necessary facilities are in place, they can be grown anywhere and are not affected by the climate, resulting in stable production volumes.

On the other hand, log-grown shiitake mushrooms are cultivated by inoculating natural logs with spawn, so they rely solely on the nutrients from the wood and take time to grow. While it is possible to cultivate them indoors as long as you have the logs for inoculation, log-grown shiitake mushrooms that have been carefully cultivated in a natural environment with optimal conditions are said to have a particularly rich flavor and thicker caps.

In Yamada Town, these log-grown shiitake mushrooms are often dried and processed into dried shiitake mushrooms (hoshishitake). Among dried shiitake mushrooms, those with large, well-shaped caps are highly prized as gifts and high-end ingredients. 

Dried shiitake mushrooms from Yamada Town—a premium ingredient

Dried shiitake mushrooms have several names. “Hana-donko” refers to mushrooms with white, flower-like cracks on the surface of the cap; due to their beautiful appearance, they are often used as gifts. “Kōshin” refers to mushrooms with caps that are more open than those of standard donko and have gills; because they produce a rich broth, they are highly valued in simmered dishes and the like. The Zen-Noh Dried Shiitake Mushroom Competition features categories such as “Kōshin (medium-leaf, thick-fleshed),” “Hana-donko,” and “Donko,” with entries judged based on color, shape, and size.

Dried shiitake mushrooms that win awards at these competitions are used as premium ingredients in hotels and traditional Japanese restaurants. Yamada Town’s dried shiitake mushrooms, prized for both their appearance and flavor, are in high demand among chefs and sushi masters.

As a master of log-grown shiitake mushrooms

Eizo Haga, a master of log-grown shiitake mushrooms, has established a mushroom workshop in the Toyamane district—located inland within Yamada Town—where he cultivates log-grown shiitake mushrooms. In the fall, he heads into the mountains to forage for matsutake mushrooms as well. The matsutake mushrooms gathered by Mr. Haga, who knows the mountains well, are renowned for their high quality, and he is known among locals as the “Mushroom Master.”

Mr. Haga began cultivating log-grown shiitake mushrooms in 1983, when he was about 38 years old. He won his first Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award at a national competition when he was 49. Since then, he has won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award five times in the “Hanadonko” category. Having become a regular recipient of the highest honors, Mr. Haga was awarded the title of “Master.” Since then, he has continued to enter competitions in various categories and has accumulated numerous awards.

Cultivating log-grown shiitake mushrooms using the abundant oak trees in Yamada Town

Mr. Haga’s log-grown shiitake mushrooms are cultivated both outdoors and in greenhouses. The logs used to inoculate the shiitake spores are made from Japanese oak. Broadleaf trees, not conifers, are best suited for these logs. While oak is commonly used in other prefectures, there are no oak trees growing in the forests of Yamada Town; however, since Japanese oak is abundant there, that is the wood used. Japanese oak also has a characteristic bark with cracks, making it easier to inoculate with shiitake spawn. Mr. Haga says, “Some places cultivate shiitake using other broadleaf trees, but even after trying them, shiitake grown on Japanese oak still tastes the best.” Since shiitake mushrooms grow best in cool, moderately humid environments, it is preferable for the logs to be shielded from direct sunlight. Therefore, even though it is called “open-field cultivation,” the mushrooms are actually grown in mountain forests shaded by tall trees. The size of the shiitake mushrooms is said to be proportional to the size of the logs. In other words, the thicker and sturdier the log, the larger the shiitake mushrooms will grow.

A Leading Force in Log Cultivation in Yamada Town

The year 1983, when Mr. Haga began cultivating log-grown shiitake mushrooms, coincided with the time when Yamada Town was just beginning to focus its efforts on shiitake cultivation. Many others also began growing log-grown shiitake mushrooms around the same time. However, once the Heisei era began, inexpensive Chinese shiitake mushrooms flooded the market, causing market prices to plummet. There was a period when Yamada Town’s log-grown shiitake industry also faced difficult times. It is said that some growers even went out of business during that period. Even amid these challenges, Mr. Haga continued to actively enter his mushrooms in competitions across the country. 

Reflecting on the Future of Log-Grown Shiitake Mushrooms

Even at over 80 years old, Mr. Haga continues to energetically cultivate log-grown shiitake mushrooms. “Log-grown shiitake mushrooms have a better texture and more umami than those grown on sawdust beds,” he says, explaining his commitment to log-grown shiitake.
He explains that to win awards at competitions, he enters shiitake mushrooms with caps that are as uniform as possible in size, color, and shape. To grow a large number of mushrooms of the same size, the logs must also be uniform in size. The logs have a diameter of about 18 cm. Because they are quite heavy, managing them is hard work for the elderly Mr. Haga.

“If you keep them inside the greenhouse for too long, they’ll suffer from heat stress. By July, it gets hot inside the greenhouse. When that happens, we move the logs back to the mountains. Rather than spraying them with pesticides, returning them to the mountains provides better ventilation and is better for them,” said Mr. Haga. November. Although no shiitake mushrooms had yet sprouted on the logs in the greenhouse, he said they would be ready for harvest around April. Because they are cultivated using logs that have not been treated with pesticides, log-grown shiitake mushrooms are safe and reliable.

I will continue to grow shiitake mushrooms on logs for as long as I live.

Mr. Haga has been at the forefront of shiitake cultivation on logs in Yamada Town ever since it first took off. Even as other producers his age have stopped farming, he continues to lead the way in shiitake cultivation. “My biggest challenge is my own physical stamina,” he says. “I work every year thinking this might be my last batch of shiitake.” Yet even under these circumstances, Mr. Haga continues to achieve outstanding results at competitions. “I suppose it’s the result of many years of experience. If you visit the farm every day, the weather tells you what to do. When the humidity rises, the caps split open, revealing distinct white cracks, and the shiitake mushrooms turn out beautifully. When the humidity is too low, I water them. I have to say, I’m doing a pretty good job. I also need to train the next generation. I want to keep doing my best as long as I live,” says Mr. Haga. His expression radiated the pride of a master craftsman.

The post Continuing to Lead the Way in Yamada Town’s Log-Grown Shiitake Mushrooms: Eizo Haga, Master Mushroom Grower / Yamada Town, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Pineapple fields stretch across the rolling hills overlooking the sea. Located on the east coast of northern Okinawa Island, Higashi Village in Kunigami District is the home of “Gold Barrel,” a premium pineapple that accounts for just 5% of Japan’s total production. What is the story behind the “King of Pineapples”—the Gold Barrel—and the aspirations of its young growers?

The History of Pineapple Cultivation in Okinawa Prefecture

Okinawa Prefecture accounts for nearly 100% of Japan’s domestic pineapple production, with an annual harvest of approximately 7,000 to 8,000 metric tons. It is said that pineapple cultivation began in 1866 when seedlings washed ashore from a Dutch ship that had run aground off the coast of Ishigaki Island. After World War II, when cultivation and breed improvement for canning began in earnest, pineapples grew to become one of the two major staple crops alongside sugarcane by the 1960s.

However, the once-thriving pineapple industry suffered a major blow with the liberalization of canned product imports in 1990, and cultivation of the Hawaiian variety “N67-10”—which had been the mainstay for processing—began to decline.

Shift to high-value-added varieties for fresh consumption

Although pineapple cultivation had declined at one point, Okinawa Prefecture is shifting toward growing high-value-added varieties intended for fresh consumption. Today, the prefecture produces “Snack Pine” (official name: Bogor Pine), which can be torn apart by hand and eaten as a snack, the small, white-fleshed “Peach Pine” (official name: Soft Touch), the intensely sweet “Sandolce” (official name: Okino P17), the “White Coco” (official name: Okino P19) with its coconut-like aroma, and the premium “Gold Barrel” (official name: Gold Barrel Pine). These and many other fresh-eating varieties have been developed and are now being cultivated, steadily expanding their market share.

The Birth of the Premium “Gold Barrel” Pineapple

“Gold Barrel,” registered as a new variety in 2006, originated in Higashimura. It was developed over a period of approximately 20 years from a seedling obtained in 1989 at the Okinawa Prefectural Agricultural Research Center by crossing “Cream Pine” and “McGregor ST-1.” The variety was named for its golden-colored flesh and barrel-like shape.

The most distinctive feature of Gold Barrel is its high sugar content. While the sugar content of typical pineapples ranges from 14 to 16 degrees, Gold Barrel has a much higher sugar content of 17 to 19 degrees. Furthermore, the fruit is so tender that even the core is edible, and it has less of the characteristic sharp tartness typical of pineapples. When you take a bite, it’s melt-in-your-mouth tender and juicy, and because it has very little fiber, it doesn’t leave a gritty texture in your mouth. With its refined sweetness and rich aroma, and weighing approximately 1.5 to 2 kg per fruit, it has gained attention as a premium pineapple for gift-giving.

Tadao Tamaki, the creator of “Gold Barrel”

Tadao Tamaki of Tamaki Farm—a pioneer in pineapple cultivation in Higashimura and an Honorary Agricultural Advisor for Okinawa Prefecture—played a pivotal role in the creation of this new variety. Starting with 11 frail seedlings he had received, Mr. Tamaki repeatedly selected and nurtured them, and through many years of effort and research, he cultivated “Gold Barrel” into a truly golden-hued fruit.

Among the “Gold Barrel” pineapples Mr. Tamaki grows himself, those that are particularly exceptional in terms of taste, color, size, and shape are named “TADAO GOLD.” Known as the highest-grade variety of “Gold Barrel,” they are selected from only a few percent of the total crop.

The Legacy of Pineapple Farming

Yoshiyuki and Kie Shinzato, who run “Shinzato Fruit Farm” in Higashimura, are the next generation of growers who learned the ins and outs of Gold Barrel cultivation from Mr. Tamaki, who has devoted over 50 years to pineapple farming.

Kie is Mr. Tamaki’s daughter, and she had watched him grow pineapples since she was a child. However, it wasn’t until she entered the workforce that she realized just how remarkable her father’s pineapples were. She says it was after she started working as a pastry chef in Naha City.

Nearly 20 years ago, the pineapples her workplace was sourcing turned out to be Gold Barrel varieties grown by her father. She heard rumors from people around her that “TADAO GOLD” was famous for its delicious taste, and that’s when she realized just how exceptional they were. Thinking, “This might not be a job anyone can do,” she began working side by side with Yoshiyuki—who was born and raised on a part-time mango farm in Nanjo City—to take on the challenge of growing Gold Barrel pineapples.

Gold Barrel, Grown on the Land of Higashimura

Higashi Village, home to Shinzato Orchard, is not only one of the prefecture’s leading pineapple-producing areas but is also known as “Yanbaru,” a region where rich natural landscapes—including mangrove forests—and unique ecosystems remain well-preserved. In the vast fields where patches of red soil peek through, pineapples that have grown to about waist height stand densely planted in neat rows.

Higashimura’s red soil and climate, ideal for pineapple cultivation

One reason pineapple cultivation thrives in Higashimura is the acidic, well-drained red clay soil that pineapples prefer most. Additionally, the terrain allows minerals from the sea to seep into the soil, and summer temperatures range from 30 to 35 degrees. These conditions produce pineapples with high sugar content.

Soil preparation that capitalizes on the advantages of this soil is a crucial factor in pineapple cultivation.

Soil preparation begins by using a power shovel to till the soil to a depth of about 1 meter. Since water is the pineapple’s arch-enemy, this process creates air pockets in the soil, improving drainage. The tilled soil is then left to rest for three months, exposed to natural rainfall to allow moisture and minerals to permeate the soil while incorporating air, helping it regain its vitality. This process also prevents problems such as stunted growth caused by continuous cropping.

And apparently, the most important aspect of soil preparation is weed control. “My father-in-law tells me most often not to let the weeds grow,” says Yoshiyuki. To prevent an infestation of scale insects, they don’t use machines for weeding—they pull them out almost entirely by hand. This labor-intensive and time-consuming approach to soil preparation ultimately contributes to the flavor of the pineapples.

From Planting to Growth to Harvest

Pineapple planting is generally divided into two main periods: spring (March and April) and summer (September and October). Spring planting is timed so that the roots can establish themselves before the rainy season begins in late May. Summer planting is scheduled while monitoring typhoon conditions to ensure the planted seedlings do not rot due to rain.

Once the fruit has grown to a certain size, each one is covered with a hat made of newspaper to protect it from sunburn, and then covered with netting to block strong ultraviolet rays, thereby preventing the skin from burning and spoiling. Additionally, since the large, heavy “Gold Barrel” variety can have its stems snapped by strong typhoon winds, pipes are installed to support the stems.

Gold Barrel pineapples, which are grown with great care in an environment optimized for the crop, are finally ready for harvest approximately three years after the seedlings are planted. Since pineapples generally do not continue to ripen after harvest, they are allowed to ripen on the plant and harvested at the peak of their flavor. As harvest time approaches, the ripeness of each fruit is checked daily, and ripe ones are harvested by hand.

Carrying Dreams in a Gold Barrel

Shinzato Orchard harvests approximately 9,000 pineapples annually. While standard pineapples can be harvested twice in four years, the Gold Barrel variety yields only once every three years. Despite being a difficult variety to cultivate—with limited yields and susceptibility to disease—the growers spare no effort, meticulously preparing the soil and waiting for the fruit to ripen on the tree before picking it at the peak of flavor.

That said, it is this meticulous work that produces the Gold Barrel—a pineapple that is tender right down to the core and boasts a rich, fragrant aroma. “My father-in-law conducts research every day and continues to incorporate new techniques even though he’s over 80. I’m young, but I still can’t keep up with him,” says Yoshiyuki humbly.

While absorbing techniques and knowledge from Mr. Tamaki, he is eager to expand production by gradually increasing the acreage of Gold Barrel—a variety that is difficult to grow and has unstable yields—with the goal of eventually achieving a stable harvest of 12,000 to 13,000 fruits.

Meanwhile, Kie is focused on establishing a shipping system. Gold Barrel, which is allowed to ripen on the tree, has a shelf life of just three days after harvest. The process of polishing each pineapple individually with a cloth and packing them by hand into boxes can take up to 22 hours during peak harvest season. However, they hope to streamline this process by adopting new systems—such as machinery—so they can devote even more time and effort to growing the pineapples.

The couple currently donates their harvested pineapples regularly to local elementary schools and children’s homes. This stems from their desire to change people’s “assumptions” about pineapples: “When we were children, we thought it was normal for pineapples to be a little sour. However, depending on the variety and cultivation methods, they can become this sweet. We want children to know that pineapples are sweet and delicious, and we want to change what people take for granted about pineapples.”

Just as Mr. Tamaki nurtured golden fruits from 11 frail seedlings, that passion and expertise are now being passed on to the next generation. The Gold Barrel pineapples, rooted in the red soil of Higashi Village, will continue to bear sweet fruit, carrying the dreams of these two men.

The post The Challenge of the Second-Generation Owner of “Shinzato Orchard,” Aiming for the Top of the Gold Barrel / Higashi Village, Kunigami District, Okinawa Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.