Lake Shinji, located in Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture, is known as one of Japan’s leading production areas for shijimi clams. In the morning, small boats line the lake’s surface, and fishing begins amid the sound of outboard motors. To protect this bountiful lake, the fishermen once made a major decision. What is the story behind the shijimi clam fishery on Lake Shinji—one that the fishermen were determined to preserve, even to the point of returning the compensation they had already received? We explore the fishermen’s way of life and the history behind it.

Lake Shinji, One of Japan’s Leading Production Areas for Freshwater Clams

Lake Shinji is located in eastern Shimane Prefecture. Known as a “brackish lake”—a rarity in Japan—it is a body of water where freshwater flowing in from rivers such as the Hii River mixes with seawater entering from the Sea of Japan. This environment, where river fish and saltwater fish coexist, is unique to brackish waters. In fact, more than 100 different species of wildlife inhabit the lake.

One of Lake Shinji’s most iconic treasures is the “Yamato shijimi” clam. Known for its large size and rich umami flavor, the region boasts one of the highest catch volumes in the country. In 2024, the catch reached 4,590 metric tons, marking the 11th consecutive year the region has ranked first nationwide, solidifying its reputation as Japan’s leading producer of shijimi clams.

In the Izumo region, shijimi clams have long been cherished as an indispensable part of the daily diet, appearing in dishes such as miso soup and tsukudani. The Matsue and Izumo regions have cultivated a culture of living in harmony with the nature of Lake Shinji, and shijimi fishing is a practice that symbolizes this way of life.

An ideal environment for the growth of shijimi clams

The three main species of shijimi clams found in Japan are the “Yamato shijimi,” which inhabits brackish waters; the “Mashi shijimi,” a freshwater species; and the “Seta shijimi,” a species endemic to Lake Biwa. The Yamato shijimi harvested from Lake Shinji prefer an environment with a salinity level between that of seawater and freshwater. Lake Shinji, where freshwater and seawater mix and salinity fluctuates gently with the tides, provides an ideal habitat for these clams.

Grown in the nutrient-rich sand at the bottom of the lake, these clams are characterized by their large size and rich umami flavor. They are truly a gift nurtured by the natural environment.

Protecting the Lake and Passing It On to Future Generations

Hiroyuki Fukuma of the “Lake Shinji Fisheries Cooperative,” an organization that manages and markets fisheries on Lake Shinji. He is one of approximately 260 people who make their living from fishing for shijimi clams.

“Resource management is key,” he says, emphasizing that the cooperative focuses not only on harvesting shijimi clams but also on preserving the lake’s environment. He emphasizes the importance of continuing fishing while protecting the resource so that future generations can make shijimi fishing their livelihood and so that it will remain a specialty of Shimane Prefecture for generations to come.

To this end, the cooperative has established strict rules regarding daily catch limits, operating hours, and days off. The catch limit is set at two boxes per person per day (each box weighing 50–60 kilograms), and while the duration of each fishing trip varies depending on the method used, it is generally limited to about three to four hours. It is mandatory to return juvenile clams measuring 12 millimeters in diameter or less to the lake.

Including fishermen who catch species other than shijimi clams, approximately 700 people belong to the association. Members span a wide age range, from their early 20s to their 80s, but the fishery can only thrive when each individual prioritizes the lake’s environment and works cooperatively.

A scene of fishermen setting out to sea, symbolic of Matsue

Around 7:00 a.m., the sound of outboard motors echoes across the calm surface of the lake as small boats set out one after another. The depth of Lake Shinji varies depending on the fishing grounds, but it is generally between 2 and 4 meters. Upon reaching their respective fishing grounds, the fishermen begin their work from their small boats.

Small boats floating quietly on Lake Shinji, shrouded in morning mist. This scene has long been cherished as a symbol of morning in Matsue City.

“Joren,” a Traditional Fishing Tool

The methods used in shijimi fishing include not only mechanized operations using diesel-powered boats but also manual methods that are still practiced today, such as “iri-kaki,” in which fishermen enter the lake directly, and “te-kaki,” in which gear is operated from the boat. The fishing method Mr. Fukuma employs is “water-flow hand-raking,” which combines hand-raking with an engine-powered pump. The gear used is a uniquely shaped tool called a “joren.” This metal implement, resembling a rake, scoops up shijimi clams while raking the sand on the lake bottom.

Water is pumped through a hose from an engine-powered pump and sprayed forcefully from the nozzle, allowing fishermen to harvest freshwater clams while turning over the sand on the lake bottom. The fisherman propels the boat by pushing a pole about 8 meters long, then moves the boat by pulling the pole toward him. He repeats this process as he searches the sandy lake bottom.

Experienced fishermen are thoroughly familiar with the water depth and lake bottom conditions at each fishing ground. This method of fishing, which requires interpreting the natural conditions, is a task that truly demands skilled craftsmanship.

Careful Sorting to Ensure Quality

As soon as the shijimi clams are hauled in, the sorting process begins immediately on board. They are first sorted by size using machinery, and then carefully sorted again by hand. Since the catch limit is set at two boxes per person, the fishermen want to remove empty shells and keep only the larger, higher-quality shijimi clams.

Sorting is also done on land after the fishing is over. Fishermen gently shake or roll the clams to listen to the sound they make. They say they can tell how plump the clams are by the way the sound resonates. The difference in sound is so subtle that a layperson cannot distinguish it, but fishermen who have spent many years working with clams can clearly hear the difference.

The Decision Made by the Fishermen Who Protected Lake Shinji

The shijimi clam fishery on Lake Shinji once faced a major crisis. In the 1950s, plans were underway to convert Lake Shinji into a freshwater lake for use as agricultural water.

If the lake were converted to freshwater, the shijimi clams, which thrive in a brackish environment, would be severely affected. Local residents launched a campaign against the plan. After a staggering 155 rounds of negotiations, the fishermen realized they could not resist the national government’s plan; they accepted compensation and agreed to the project.

The Lake Saved by Returning the Compensation Money

In 1968, the freshwater conversion project began. However, as the extent of the damage to the shijimi clams became clear, opposition grew once again among residents of the Lake Shinji watershed. Led by shijimi fishermen, the “Movement Against Freshwater Conversion” soon gained momentum. They energetically carried out activities such as large-scale rallies, fishing boat parades, and the free distribution of shijimi clams.

Although compensation had been accepted at one point, the Lake Shinji Fisheries Cooperative decided to return the funds to the national government in order to protect the freshwater clams of Lake Shinji. This action resonated with the public, and the momentum behind the opposition movement reportedly grew even stronger.

Eventually, in 1988, the national and prefectural governments announced a postponement of the freshwater conversion project. In 2002, its official cancellation was declared. The environment of Lake Shinji and the freshwater clam fishery were thus preserved thanks to the strong determination of the residents and fishermen.

Passing on the Lake’s Bounty to Future Generations

In addition to cleaning the lake bottom, the Shinji Lake Fisheries Cooperative also carries out conservation activities such as collecting and releasing freshwater clam larvae. They aim to maintain the clam population by collecting larvae floating in the center of the lake and releasing them into their natural habitat.

“The lake water has become much cleaner compared to a dozen or so years ago,” says Mr. Fukuma. He notes that the household trash that used to float along the shore has almost disappeared, and speculates that a shift in local residents’ awareness may be contributing to the improved water quality. The fact that shijimi fishing continues in this area today—and that it boasts the highest catch volume in Japan—is a testament to how local residents and fishermen have consistently protected the lake’s environment.

Even today, the sight of small boats lined up on Lake Shinji symbolizes the way of life of the people who live in harmony with the lake. This fishing tradition, passed down over many years, will surely continue into the future thanks to the fishermen and the local community.

The post Lake Shinji: A Lake They Fought to Protect, Even at the Cost of Returning Compensation Funds. Preserving Japan’s Largest Freshwater Clam Fishery for Future Generations: “Lake Shinji Fisheries Cooperative” / Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

A single glass of sake can sometimes make the time spent with loved ones even more meaningful. Rihaku Brewery has been sharing these special moments with the world from Shimane. Although it is a long-established brewery with a history spanning over 140 years, its journey has always been marked by a spirit of challenge. The company expanded its sales channels back when overseas expansion was still rare, and in recent years, it has been pushing the boundaries of sake by brewing with flower yeast and developing products tailored to the times, thereby broadening the possibilities of sake. At the core of it all lies a consistent philosophy: “Creating joyful moments through sake.”

Dedicated solely to sake brewing in the land where the “Myth of Sake Brewing in Izumo” has been passed down through the ages

Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture. In this region, where a long-standing culture of sake brewing thrives, the “Izumo Sake Brewing Myth”—which tells of the gods brewing sake—has been passed down through the generations. In this land, we have continued to brew rich, full-bodied sake deeply rooted in the local terroir, using high-quality water and rice primarily grown in Shimane Prefecture. Today, the brewery uses sake-brewing rice for all of its in-house brands, focusing on the quality of the rice used in the brewing process.

Moving forward with the changing times

The company was founded in 1882. During the Meiji era—when feudal society came to an end and Japan began adopting Western culture—Takujiro Tanaka began brewing sake under the trade name “Tanaka Honten.” At that time, unlike today’s brand-based approach, it was a small-scale business where local residents would bring their own drinking vessels to purchase sake. As the Taisho era gave way to the Showa era, the distribution of sake began to be standardized nationwide, and breweries started promoting their own unique brands. It was at this time that Tanaka Honten adopted the brand name “Rihaku.” The name was chosen by Reijirō Wakatsuki, a native of Matsue City who later served as Prime Minister of Japan. An avid fan of Tanaka Honten’s sake, Wakatsuki named it “Rihaku”—after the Tang Dynasty poet from China—with the hope that it would “be a sake cherished across the ages.”

After the war, against the backdrop of rising demand for sake, the company grew primarily by supplying unblended sake to major manufacturers in bulk (“oke-uri”), and in 1950, it was incorporated as “Tanaka Shuzo.” In the 1970s, at a time when mass production was still the norm, Tanaka Shuzo shifted its focus from “quantity to quality.” The company began full-scale development of its own brand, “Rihaku,” using only rice suitable for sake brewing and pursuing the ultimate in flavor. Through repeated trial and error, they improved quality, eventually earning recognition—including numerous awards—and laid the foundation that continues to this day.

The company then began exporting in the 1980s. Although exporting sake was still rare at the time, the previous head of the family aimed to spread sake culture overseas. Today, 40% of its production is exported to 14 countries, primarily the United States. As the popularity of its flagship product, “Rihaku,” grew, the company changed its name in 1993 from “Tanaka Shuzo”—which bore the representative’s surname—to “Rihaku Shuzo.”

With a pioneering spirit, “passing on sake to the next generation”

The current fifth-generation head of Rihaku Brewery is Yuichiro Tanaka, who studied brewing science at Tokyo University of Agriculture and took over the family business after apprenticing at a specialty shop for local sake in Tokyo.

Mr. Tanaka joined the family business in 2003. At that time, the sake industry was undergoing a major turning point. In addition to market shifts caused by the shochu boom, the artisans who had long supported sake brewing were rapidly aging. Rihaku Sake Brewery was no exception. Sensing that “if things continued this way, we would no longer be able to brew sake,” Mr. Tanaka decided to overhaul the company’s production system, which had been centered around the head brewer. He took the bold step of creating a system that would ensure stable sake production.

Introducing modern equipment to pass on the skills of the “Izumo Toji” to future generations

The quality of Rihaku Sake Brewery is underpinned by the expertise of the Izumo master brewers. Through meticulous koji production and a method of slow fermentation at low temperatures, they have consistently produced sake with high acidity and a robust flavor. However, this technique relied heavily on experience and intuition. To address this, Mr. Tanaka pushed forward with digitizing the production process and investing in equipment, enabling the management of fermentation conditions—such as status, temperature, and duration—through numerical data. He refined the process into a reproducible system and established it as the “Rihaku Brewery Method.”

At the same time, not everything is left to machines. For critical processes such as koji production, the brewery places great importance on manual labor, shifting from a approach where “humans control the koji” to one where “humans prepare an environment conducive to the koji’s activity.” By closely monitoring temperature and humidity and making adjustments based on the koji’s condition, they bring out its full potential. Advances in technology and equipment have made the kind of meticulous management that was once difficult possible, leading to stable quality and further improvement.

In recent years, climate change has made the quality of rice more variable. As a result, they strive to make improvements every year while monitoring its condition. “There’s no end to the adjustments,” he says. “To deliver good sake, we will continue to conduct repeated analyses,” showing that he is not content with the status quo.

Creating a New Identity Using Flower Yeast

Until Mr. Tanaka returned to the brewery, they had been producing classic-style sake by combining sake rice varieties such as “Gohyakumangoku” and “Yamada Nishiki” with “No. 9 yeast,” which creates a crisp, clean flavor. This method has long been used to consistently produce high-quality sake thanks to the expertise of the Izumo master brewers.

At the same time, Mr. Tanaka took on the challenge of creating a new combination using the “Omachi” sake rice variety and “flower yeast.” “Flower yeast” refers to sake yeast that has been successfully isolated and cultured from flowers found in nature. While the character of the sake varies depending on the type of flower used, it is said to be particularly effective at producing a floral ginjo aroma and fruity flavors, making it a popular choice for crafting distinctive sakes. Drawing on his experience researching flower yeast during his university days, he set out to create sake in a style distinct from traditional methods.

“I wanted to create a new flavor unique to ‘Rihaku Sake Brewery’—one that differs from the techniques of the Izumo master brewers,” he explained. With this vision in mind, he selected his ingredients to achieve a balance of a robust body with a refreshing aroma and light acidity. The elegant flavor has been well-received by women and those new to sake.

Such initiatives are part of the challenge to preserve tradition. It is precisely this attitude—taking a step forward without fear of change—that serves as the driving force to carry sake culture into the next era.

Providing a pleasant experience through sake

Japan’s drinking culture began as a sacred “ritual connecting the gods and people” rooted in Shinto rituals, and has evolved uniquely as a setting for enjoying the seasonal beauty of nature—flowers, birds, the wind, and the moon—as well as for social interaction. Within this culture, sake has always been a part of daily life, not merely as a luxury item, but as a force that connects people.

“What we’re making isn’t just sake—it’s an ‘oasis’ that enriches people’s time,” says Mr. Tanaka. His philosophy is that sake should not take center stage, but rather serve as an element that enhances conversation and meals.

Sake is, after all, merely a “catalyst.” Its presence sparks conversation and makes meals more enjoyable. He wants to support such moments. To that end, he prioritizes a flavor profile that balances well with food. He aims to create sake that never grows tiresome and naturally invites you to take another sip.

Our Commitment to Preserving Sake Culture Accurately

At Rihaku Sake Brewery, guided by the philosophy of “promoting sake culture and passing it on correctly to future generations,” we use sake-brewing rice in all of our sake. Sake-brewing rice refers to rice that has been selectively bred to be suitable for brewing Japanese sake. Although it is more expensive, it produces fewer off-flavors and makes it easier to achieve a clean taste that pairs well with meals.

Additionally, the brewery uses water from one local well and three wells on its premises; since all are part of the same water system, they are all utilized in the brewing process. The soft mouthfeel and clean finish make the sake easy to drink and support its appeal as a meal-accompanying sake.

Bringing richness to daily life with a tireless spirit of challenge

To preserve tradition,Rihaku Sake Brewery’s quest for innovation never stops.

In 2024, the company began selling its sake in pouches. It is highly unusual for a regional sake brewery to handle everything from development to manufacturing in-house, making this a groundbreaking approach for the industry. “Because they’re lightweight and easy to carry, our pouches are being chosen for new occasions such as outdoor activities and watching sports. They’re also increasingly popular as souvenirs among international visitors.” The company says it aims to begin selling unpasteurized sake in pouches in the future.

At the heart of these efforts is the desire for people to share pleasant moments together, transcending national and cultural boundaries. Rihaku Sake Brewery will continue to deliver the richness that each cup of sake brings to the world.

The post Preserving tradition and sharing the charm of sake with the world: Yuichiro Tanaka, 5th-generation head of “Rihaku Sake Brewery” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Uppurui Town is located along the Sea of Japan in Izumo City, Shimane Prefecture. The Uppurui nori harvested here is wild rock nori that is hand-picked while braving the rough winter seas. This tradition—nurtured by strong winds and waves and carried on as a way of life to reap the bounty of the sea—remains deeply rooted in this place to this day. Amid the intertwining of history and nature, this nori has been passed down as something truly special.

Uppurui nori: Nurtured on the rocky shores of the Sea of Japan and passed down through generations

Uppurui is a town in Izumo City, Shimane Prefecture, facing the Sea of Japan. Its coastline features a unique landscape with a series of large and oddly shaped rocks lining the tip of the cape. This scenery, shaped over many years by the rough waves of the Sea of Japan, is considered one of the most beautiful coastal views in the San’in region.

Clinging to these rocky shores is the region’s specialty: Uppurui nori. This naturally grown rock seaweed has a long history; it is said to have been presented to the imperial court during the Nara and Heian periods and treated as a tribute to the shogunate during the Edo period.

A Harvesting Site Where We Continue to Work in Harmony with Nature

Uppurui nori can only be harvested during the short period from December to February. It grows in harsh conditions—strong seasonal winds and rough waves—and these conditions directly determine the quality of the nori.

While there used to be nearly 50 Uppurui nori producers in the village, that number has now dwindled to just over a dozen. Annual production is said to be less than one metric ton. Furthermore, since most of it is consumed within the prefecture, it is a rare type of nori that is rarely found outside the prefecture.

Mineo Hino is one of the few who continues to harvest Uppurui nori.

He has been involved with Uppurui nori for about 70 years. Although he once moved to Osaka, he returned to this place after his father—a Uppurui nori fisherman—asked him to come back.

“Uppurui nori is a gift from the sea.”

His words reveal the essence of a livelihood lived in harmony with nature. Rather than being something people create, it is a gift from the sea that they receive. That mindset is what sustains this way of life.

A Harvest on a Rocky Shore Battered by Rough Waves

To reach the rocky shore where the nori is harvested, you first walk along a mountain trail for about 15 to 20 minutes. As you proceed along the narrow, rugged path, you’ll come upon a rocky slope facing the sea.

From a distance, the area looks like nothing more than black rocks, but they’re densely covered with Uppurui nori. Up close, the rocks are wet and glistening, changing their appearance with every wave that crashes against them.

Because waves constantly crash against the rocks, you must remain vigilant at all times. The waves reach right up to your feet and sometimes even splash over your body. It is truly a life-threatening task.

Wearing a rain suit and rubber boots, Mr. Hino goes about his work with calm determination. The way he continues working without flinching, even as the waves crash against him, speaks to the depth of experience he has accumulated in this place.

Using years of experience to read the swell

The harvest of Uppurui nori—a type of wild rock seaweed—is heavily dependent on natural conditions. If the waves are too strong, the seaweed tears; if they are too weak, it does not grow sufficiently.

What is required is a narrow window of conditions where strength and calm coexist.

From November through February, when the harvest takes place, the Sea of Japan becomes extremely rough due to strong seasonal winds. Waves constantly crash against the rocky shores, and the slime from the nori makes the rocks slippery. If you misjudge the timing, there is a risk of being swept away by the waves; one wrong step can be a matter of life and death.

Mr. Hino watches the swell of the waves and picks the nori, weaving his way through the gaps between them. This work, which involves moving his body in sync with nature’s rhythm, is supported by his many years of experience.

He says he learned this technique by watching his parents. He picked it up by imitating them as he helped out, and even now, he continues to make judgments based on the sea conditions of the day.

The feel in his hands as he harvests the seaweed is also crucial. If he applies too much force, the fibers will snap, leaving the strands shorter. He picks them gently yet firmly. It is the accumulation of this delicate work that determines the quality of the seaweed.

Finished by hand, one by one, to preserve their natural state

After finishing the early morning work and wrapping up around noon, the next step is the nori drying process.

The nori is spread out on bamboo mats called “nori-su,” where it is shaped into single sheets while preserving its natural fibers and form. The workers use their sense of touch to arrange the nori evenly, taking into account how thick it will be once dry.

The finished nori is black and has a strong aroma. Compared to the soft, melt-in-your-mouth texture of typical farmed nori, it is characterized by the crisp, crunchy texture unique to wild rock nori and a strong, briny flavor.

Passing on Izumo’s Culinary Culture and the Art of Seaweed Harvesting to the Next Generation

Uppurui nori is an indispensable ingredient in New Year’s ozoni soup in the Izumo region. When floated in the broth with mochi, it fills the air with the scent of the sea, transforming it into a truly special bowl of soup.

In this way, Uppurui nori has been passed down as a food for festive occasions.

Meanwhile, Mr. Hino says, “I want people to know there are many ways to enjoy it, not just in ozoni.” You can savor its flavor in everyday dishes such as tempura, chawanmushi, rice balls, and soba.

Passing on the traditions that have been handed down through the generations

In the past, Mr. Hino and his wife, Mihoko, used to harvest the seaweed together, but since Mihoko developed a leg condition, Mr. Hino has taken the lead in the work. Because working alone on the rocky shores where waves crash is dangerous, a new person has now joined them, and they continue the harvest while supporting one another.

This work requires experience and cannot be easily passed on. Reading the waves, the proper way to harvest, and making decisions on the job—all of these skills have been cultivated over a long period of time.

Nevertheless, training the next generation is essential to passing on Uppurui nori to future generations. As they stand together on the rocky shores, that intuition and judgment are gradually passed down.

Leaving things to nature while taking only what is necessary—that approach will never change.

May each sheet harvested from these waters find its way to dining tables in Izumo, across the nation, and beyond. The legacy of Uppurui nori, too, will quietly be passed on to the next generation.

The post “Uppurui nori”: Natural rock seaweed nurtured by the Sea of Japan and harvested by hand, a tradition passed down through generations—Mineo Hino, Izumo City, Shimane Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Hiroyuki Kadowaki (pictured right), owner of “CAFE ROSSO,” who took second place at the “World Barista Championship,” one of the world’s largest barista competitions. A barista who has taken on the world from Shimane, he has pursued his own unique cup of coffee through in-house roasting. His younger brother, Yuji (pictured left), who runs “CAFFE VITA,” has also won numerous awards in domestic competitions, including championships, and is active as a seminar instructor and judge. The two are based in Shimane Prefecture, where they were born and raised. Why do they continue to brew coffee here, despite possessing the skills to succeed on the world stage?

My vision of the future was inspired by everyday life with coffee

The ground floor of his family home was a coffee shop, where his father, Yoshimi, brewed coffee every day. He always passed by the shop on his way to and from school. It was a scene he took for granted.

“When I was in eighth grade, the shop switched to in-house roasting, and the coffee became much better,” recalls Hiroyuki. “As I visited various shops with my father to compare the flavors, I found it fascinating that ‘only my father could create that particular taste.’”

Watching his father at work, a future in the coffee business naturally began to take shape. However, as he started to think more concretely about his career path, the feeling that “I can’t surpass my father’s coffee” began to take root. Rather than taking over the shop, he decided he wanted to open his own place, expressing himself in a way that only he could. Driven by this desire, after graduating from high school, he took a job at a Western-style pastry shop in Osaka to learn how to make desserts. He worked as a pastry chef for six years, laying the groundwork to expand his creative expression as a café owner.

In search of my own unique flavor, I headed to Italy

In the mid-1990s, foreign coffee chains began entering the Japanese market. Espresso machines—still a rarity at the time—along with diverse menus and bright, open-concept stores, spread primarily in urban areas, introducing a new way of enjoying coffee. Until then, drip coffee—made by pouring hot water over ground beans—had been the mainstream in Japan. Espresso, brewed under high pressure, was still virtually unknown. “I felt like the possibilities of coffee had suddenly expanded, and I was convinced that ‘this is going to catch on.’” Upon learning that its roots lay in Italy, Hiroyuki traveled there to experience the authentic taste firsthand. He had found the style he wanted to pursue.

Create and nurture your own sense of direction

Espresso is the standard in Italian coffee culture. Yoshi traveled from northern to southern Italy, visiting countless bars (cafés). He gradually developed his own vision for coffee by observing not only the flavors but also the layout of the shops and how customers relaxed. After returning to Japan, he mastered the operation of espresso machines while learning the art of in-house roasting at his father’s shop. Then, in 1999, he opened his own shop, “CAFE ROSSO,” in Yasugi City, the same town as his father’s. Watching his older brother, Yuji naturally decided to pursue a career in coffee as well. Like his brother, he worked at a pastry shop and explored his own style in Italy. He later opened “CAFFE VITA” in Matsue City.

Taking on the Barista Championship

A few years after opening, a turning point arrived. A business partner asked them, “There’s a contest coming up—would you like to enter?” The competition in question was the “Japan Barista Championship,” organized by the Japan Specialty Coffee Association. It is one of the largest barista competitions in the country, held with the aim of promoting a culture of high-quality coffee. Specialty coffee refers to high-quality coffee that meets specific evaluation standards, and a barista’s brewing skills are essential to bringing out its full flavor. The competition evaluates participants comprehensively on factors such as flavor quality, technical skill, and hospitality. They entered the 2003 competition simply to test their skills. To their surprise, Hiroyuki won first place and Yuji took second. It was the moment their skills were objectively recognized.

Runner-up at the World Championship. The decision to roast their own beans that led to this achievement

In 2005, Hiroyuki competed in the World Barista Championship. This global competition, open only to winners of the aforementioned national tournament, marked his debut as a representative of Japan. The judging criteria included not only taste but also service skills and presentation. At the time, it was no easy feat for an Asian to take on the espresso culture of Europe and the United States.

However, Hiroyuki took second place with a unique presentation featuring beans he had roasted himself. “Back then, almost everyone used commercially available beans. But I used beans I roasted myself and competed with an original flavor profile.” He established the foundation of the flavor through roasting and maximized that flavor during extraction. This choice, made to create a taste unlike any other, is undoubtedly still alive in his coffee-making today.

Our Commitment to Roasting: What Defines the Taste of Our Coffee

Even with the same beans, the flavor of coffee can vary greatly depending on the roast. Slight differences in heat and time can affect the acidity, sweetness, and body. “I once drank coffee brewed by a top-tier barista and was amazed by the depth of flavor. I thought, ‘I want to aim for this taste,’ but I realized that brewing alone wasn’t enough—I needed to create the flavor through roasting. That’s when I decided to seriously pursue roasting,” he says, recounting his beginnings. He wants to take full responsibility for the flavor, right to the very end.

Designing the flavors we want to deliver

Since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, more people have been enjoying coffee at home. At the shop run by the two of them, they also sell coffee beans and drip bags. Authentic ways of enjoying coffee, such as grinding the beans and brewing them yourself, are becoming increasingly popular. “To ensure our customers can enjoy delicious coffee, we deliver beans that have been carefully roasted to bring out their full flavor. While our baristas bring out the maximum flavor in the shop, it’s difficult to replicate that at home. That’s why we’re researching the timing of the roast and the proportion of the bean’s outer layer to ensure it tastes great no matter who brews it,” says Yuji. Their current goal is to achieve a rich, reddish-brown crema (foam) and a body that holds its own against milk.

Hiroyuki, too, remains unwavering in his pursuit of the ideal flavor, saying, “I want to convey the thrill I felt when I drank coffee in Naples, Italy.”

They aim to bring happiness through coffee. Roasting is simply one means to that end.

We continue to create coffee that complements any occasion

In recent years, there has also been growing interest in specialty coffee that emphasizes specific origins. Single-origin coffee, made from beans produced in a specific region, stands out for its distinct character. On the other hand, the appeal of blends—which combine beans from multiple origins—lies in the diverse flavors they offer depending on the mix.

The shop carries two types of coffee beans: Arabica and Robusta. While Arabica beans have a vibrant aroma and fruity acidity, Robusta beans are characterized by their strong bitterness and deep body. By carefully assessing each origin and its unique characteristics, they create the optimal flavor profile.

With coffee bean prices continuing to rise, they suggest a variety of ways to enjoy coffee: “For everyday life, enjoy a wide range of flavors with an affordable blend, and on special occasions, treat yourself to the luxurious experience of single-origin coffee.”

The coffee they serve isn’t meant to impress with its “greatness”; rather, it’s a cup that naturally makes you say, “This is delicious.”

In a town where the tea ceremony culture runs deep, we are dedicated solely to coffee

The Matsue area is also known for the fact that during the Edo period, the feudal lord Matsudaira Fumai promoted the tea ceremony. In this town, where the culture of the tea ceremony has taken root, a daily cup of tea has always been cherished. Coffee, too, is something to be enjoyed naturally as part of everyday life. What they seek is not a taste that surprises, but one that makes you want to have another cup.

When asked about their future plans, Hiroyuki says, “We want to pursue our own unique coffee and share it with the whole country. We aim for a flavor that makes people think, ‘I didn’t know coffee could taste this good.’” Yuji adds, “We want to offer ways to enjoy coffee from various angles. We don’t just run a café; we also hold coffee machine demonstrations and seminars.”

Hiroyuki refines the “flavor,” while Yuji spreads the “culture.” While their approach of staying close to everyday life is a common thread, their individual passions are guiding coffee-infused living in a positive direction. The cup of coffee born in Shimane will continue to enrich the daily lives of many people.

The post In pursuit of the perfect cup of coffee that enriches everyday life. Hiroyuki and Yuji Kadowaki / Yasugi City and Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Izumo Taisha is known as the shrine of matchmaking. The massive shimenawa rope displayed in its Kagura Hall is an iconic sight that draws visitors’ eyes upward. The organization responsible for crafting this grand shimenawa is the Tonbara Branch of the Izumo Taisha Kan’no-kō Society, located in Iinan Town, Shimane Prefecture. The craft of shimenawa-making, which supports this land of myth, has been passed down as a source of pride for the town.

Giant Shimenawa Ropes Crafted in a Mountain Village Workshop

Iinan Town, located in Shimane Prefecture, is surrounded by the mountains of the Chugoku Range. It is a quiet place where snow falls in winter and is blessed with clear water and fertile fields. The “Izumo Taisha Kanno-kōsha Tonbara Branch” is responsible for crafting the large shimenawa (sacred straw ropes) at the “Oshimenawa Creation Hall” in the town. Mr. Wada serves as the branch’s representative, supporting the long-standing tradition of offering these ropes in this region.

The Tradition of Making Shimenawa Passed Down in the Mountains

The Tonbara Branch of the Izumo Taisha Agricultural Promotion Society is responsible for crafting one of the largest sacred straw ropes in Japan. Its destination is the Kagura-den Hall at Izumo Taisha, which attracts worshippers from all over the country. It measures approximately 13.6 meters in length and weighs about 5 tons. Its sheer scale is so impressive that first-time visitors instinctively stop in their tracks and look up in awe. However, the place where this magnificent shimenawa is created is a workshop located in a mountain village, far removed from the hustle and bustle of the tourist area.

The Connection Between the Giant Shimenawa and Iinan Town

The connection between Iinan Town and the giant shimenawa dates back to the 1950s. At that time, a branch of Izumo Taisha was located in the area. It is said that, as a result of this connection, local residents and worshippers began crafting shimenawa to dedicate to the shrine.

Later, in 1981, when the Izumo Taisha Kagura Hall was constructed, a request was made to create a new shimenawa. The result was a massive shimenawa measuring approximately 13.6 meters in length. To create a shimenawa of a size befitting the Kagura Hall, local residents joined forces to undertake the project. Work on the shimenawa continued, moving from the auditorium of Tonbara Elementary School to the gymnasium of the junior high school. Finally, in 2015, the “Great Shimenawa Creation Hall” was completed as a dedicated facility for shimenawa production.

The “Great Shimenawa Creation Hall,” which preserves the tradition of shimenawa to this day

Essentially, shimenawa serve as a “barrier” separating the realm where deities dwell from the world in which we live. Since ancient times, they have been displayed at shrines, household altars, and home entrances, becoming deeply ingrained in Japanese daily life. At the “Oshimenawa Creation Museum,” visitors can view photographs and materials that trace the history of shimenawa and learn about the local tradition of shimenawa-making that has been passed down through the generations.

Shimenawa woven with skilled craftsmanship

As you proceed further inside, a workshop opens up before you. There, artisans are busy weaving shimenawa ropes. Some weave, others prepare the core, and still others craft small components. The work progresses as each person fulfills their specific role. The scent of dried rice straw fills the air, and the soft sound of twisted straw bundles echoes quietly. The artisans take the straw in their hands and twist it with all their strength, shaping it into a single rope.

At first glance, making shimenawa may seem like a simple task, but creating ropes of uniform thickness requires skilled craftsmanship. How much force to apply when tightening the bundles of straw, and at what angle to twist them together—these nuances are acquired through years of experience.

Making a giant shimenawa to be hung at the Kagura Hall

While the creation of standard shimenawa ropes usually takes place in the back room of the Creative Center, the atmosphere inside changes dramatically when crafting the giant shimenawa to be hung at the Kagura Hall of Izumo Taisha. To create this massive rope, which measures approximately 13.6 meters, the entire building is utilized for the production process.

The giant shimenawa is not made from a single rope. It is completed by braiding multiple thick ropes and combining them. The process of bundling straw, twisting it together, and then assembling the structure requires a great deal of time and manpower.

Rice cultivation for rope-making also takes place in Iinan Town

The production of the giant shimenawa begins in the spring, with the rice planting. The basic principle is to use materials produced locally in Iinan Town, and there are rice paddies within the town specifically designated for shimenawa. The variety of glutinous rice grown here is called “Akaho Mochi.” It is stickier than ordinary glutinous rice and is characterized by its resistance to breaking when twisted into a rope. Such sturdy rice is essential for making massive ropes like the giant shimenawa.

Unlike rice grown for consumption, the rice used for shimenawa is harvested before the grains mature. This is because the stalks, while still green and with strong fibers, produce a stronger and more beautiful rope. The harvested rice is dried, bundled, and eventually twisted into rope. Freshly made shimenawa retains a faint hint of the rice’s green hue. Over time, the color fades, eventually transforming into the familiar, subdued brown seen at shrines.

The Kagura Hall will be renovated this summer

Toward the end of the production process, there is a stage known as “grand twisting.” This involves bundling together numerous thick ropes and twisting them into a single, massive rope. Since this is difficult to accomplish with machinery alone, it requires the combined strength of many people. In Iinan Town, volunteers are recruited to participate in this stage, and local residents and other willing helpers work together to complete the rope. It is said that a total of 800 people are involved in the creation of the giant shimenawa. The massive shimenawa is completed not only by the craftsmen but also through the efforts of the townspeople.

Shimenawa Making: From Iinan Town to the Whole Country

Once the craft center was established and the production process was opened to the public, the technique gained widespread recognition. Today, the center reportedly receives orders for shimenawa from shrines and facilities across Japan, as well as from overseas.

As a result, shimenawa production continues year-round at the center, even during periods when large shimenawa are not being made. The ropes come in a variety of sizes and serve various purposes; from those displayed at shrines to those used for decorating public facilities, the ropes woven in Izumo are shipped to locations all over the country.

Sharing our local pride with all of Japan and future generations

“Making shimenawa is a source of pride for this region,” says Mr. Wada. The shimenawa-making techniques developed here in Iinan Town have now spread throughout the country, becoming an integral part of places of worship across Japan.

At the same time, Iinan Town is facing an aging population. How to pass on the art of shimenawa-making to the next generation is a major challenge. Nevertheless, even today, straw is being bundled and ropes are being twisted in this town. This traditional craft, along with the pride of the community, is being passed down to all corners of Japan, overseas, and into the future.

The post The Tradition of Shimenawa Making Passed Down in Iinan Town, the Birthplace of Japan’s Largest Shimenawa—Izumo Taisha Kan’nōkōsha Tonbara Branch / Iinan Town, Shimane Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Ryokan with a long history

Matsue City in Shimane Prefecture faces the Sea of Japan in the north and the Chugoku Mountains in the south. It is also surrounded by the natural beauty of Lake Shinji and the Nakaumi Sea. Minamikan is located in this rich natural environment.

Kaibikan is a long-established ryotei ryokan (Japanese-style inn) founded in 1888, and is located on the shore of Lake Shinji in Matsue, which was once a castle town. Although the ryokan has been in business for more than 120 years, it has undergone renovations and is loved by many people for its comfort and the sense of dignity that only a long-established ryokan can provide.

Minamikan, an inn nestled on a lake

The most attractive thing about the Minamikan is its location, which is said to be ” an inn nestled by a lake. Located near Lake Shinji, the Minamikan offers a panoramic view of the lake from its rooms. Not only that, but you even feel as if you are actually on the lake. The sun sets, the clouds drift by, and you can experience the changing face of nature in a more profound way. No other ryokan will allow you to experience nature to this extent.

In 2021, the lakeside garden was ranked fourth in the nation bythe Journal of Japanese Gardening, an American magazine specializing in Japanese gardens. The garden’s ingenuity in making the most of nature while providing visitors with a sense of peace and tranquility has also been highly acclaimed overseas.

The garden is also known to have been loved by the royal family, cultural figures such as Toson Shimazaki, Taro Okamoto, and Ryunosuke Akutagawa, as well as political and financial figures and artists in the past. In particular, Toson Shimazaki is said to have stayed at the hotel until after his scheduled departure, and the “Toson’s Room” still remains as it was in those days.

Healing the Tired Body

Of course, it is not only the beauty of the scenery that relieves the fatigue of travelers. The hot springs and meals are also prepared with heartfelt hospitality to the delight of guests. The hot spring water is sodium calcium sulfate/chloride spring water.

The restaurant uses local seafood from the sea and mountains to satisfy the palates of visitors with seasonal dishes and local cuisine. One of the most popular dishes is “tai-meshi” (rice with sea bream), which has been a favorite since the establishment of the restaurant. This tai meshi has been a favorite dish since the establishment of the restaurant. The sea bream minced from a 1.5- to 2-kilogram class domestic sea bream is lavishly used as the sashimi portion. When dashi broth based on bonito flakes, which is said to be the lifeblood of tai meshi, is poured over it, the dish has a deep, yet light and elegant flavor. The tai-meshi that is made with such care and attention is unlike any other, and is a taste that can only be found here.

In this way, Minamikan is a place that should be visited at least once to get away from the busyness of daily life, and to experience and appreciate the beauty of nature.

Why not come and heal your body and soul after a long day of daily life?

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What does it mean “to eat”

“To eat” means receiving the gift of life from other living beings. These are the words spoken often by 佐藤忠吉 the founder of Kisuki Yugo. Produced in ways that don’t go against nature and consumed accordingly. These are all activities which take place within nature’s system. Producing, growing, and even consuming are all connected.

忠吉 refers to himself as “hyakusho” Japanese for “farmer” which is sometimes considered discriminatory. But “hyaku” means hundred, so he considers himself to be a farmer who grows one hundred crops. “Hyakusho” must not only have agricultural and dairy skills, they must be able to handle every related task such as bacteriology, nutritional science, and even architecture and medical. Therefore 忠吉（英文表記なし) is still in the course of becoming a true ”hyakusho”. Even after turning 80 and handing the company over to his son 貞之, 忠吉 is actively seeking improvement.

Creating diverse “food”

Kisuki Yugo was founded in Showa 37 (1962). They were farmers, but as Japan was evolving into an urban nation at the time, they longed for “independent farming” and began dairy farming as well. One of the special features of Kisuki Yugo is the pasteurized milk which was the first of its kind introduced in Japan.
Pasteurized milk is milk processed by a heat treatment method developed by the French bacteriologist Pasteur. Milk is generally processed by ultra-high heat treatment, which kills all bacteria including the beneficial ones. Pasteurized milk only kills harmful bacteria therefore retains a natural balance.
The idea of “producing without going against nature and that food is life of another living being” is alive.

At Kisuki Yugo, they are not only involved in agriculture and dairy farming, but also a network called “Shrine of Food” which includes vineyards and wineries, bakeries, and even a ”tofu” maker, all of whom process and sell food using local ingredients. Those involved in the network include not only farmers and consumers but also students, and is creating ties with the local community.
By “not going against nature”, mass production is reexamined. Then, from local production for local consumption to a loose community. A network leading to the future may be found here.

The post Network for the Future by Farmers “Kisuki Nyugyo” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

An attractive hot spring visited by writers and artists

Other things to enjoy besides Okuizumo Yumura Onsen

Okuizumoyumura Onsen where Yunokamikan is located, is in the hot spring spot called Shitsuninosato surrounded by the mountains of Okuizumo in the midstream of Hiikawa River. It is known as a place where many writers and artists such as Chokunyu Tanomura, a Nanga (Southern School of Chinese Painting) artist, have visited to enjoy the pure hot spring and the quiet air.
The inside of the old wooden two-storied building is somewhat nostalgic, and from its piazza, guests can enjoy the changing seasons across the river.
There are 5 rooms at Yunokamikan, but they only accept reservations for two groups per day. It may be used by a small number of guests or by a group of up to 15 people depending on the circumstances. Besides the hot spa, dinner with seasonal ingredients served by the fireplace is something to look forward to. But the greatest pleasure to be enjoyed here may be the slow passing of time.

The post Relaxation for only Two Groups per Day “Yunokamikan” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Until it reaches the customer

Ouroku Sake Brewery is a sake brewery rooted in Higashiizumocho in Shimane which has been making ”sake” for about 130 years.
With production volume of only 108,000 liters and 5 staff including the ”toji”, all processes are done manually.

”Toji” 石原丈径 is a successor to the brewery. After studying control engineering, he moved back home and began making ”sake”. Currently, not only are they strict about preparation and processes involved in ”sake” production, Ouroku Sake Brewery is particular about freshness control up to the point when their ”sake” reaches the customer.
Toji who is adamant about “delivering living sake” is very particular about this.
They follow a bottling method to prevent oxidation to “allow sake to live” and an aging period to “allow sake to grow”.
Furthermore, ”sake” from Ouroku Sake Brewery is only delivered to ”sake” dealers who have reliable control and selling methods.
Their concerns are based on past experience. 石原 tried selling outside of Shimane prefecture when he first started producing ”sake”, but the results were not favorable.
As a ”toji”, he knows that consumers will not come back for his ”sake” unless they are satisfied with the first sip. That is the reason so much aspiration and passion is devoted to delivering “living sake”.

The post Delivering Living Sake “Ouroku Sake Brewery” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Rice paddy with clear river water

Rice lovers may be familiar with the name ”Nitamai” since it won the Gold Prize in the “全国米・食味分析鑑定コンクール” in 2005.

There are two sources for its great taste.
The first is the water. The spring water flowing into the rice paddy is from a river so clear that ”wasabi”, a plant which needs very clear water, grows along the river.
Next is manpower. The rice paddies are prepared without the use of any chemical fertilizers. Furthermore, 4 sections do not even use herbicides. We asked how weed is eliminated, and we were tole they do not even incorporate duck farming. All weeds are pulled out by hand. It is overwhelming.

Great Flavor of Rice

To further enhance the flavor, harvested rice is dried under the sun by a method called “hadeboshi”. The temperature difference of this area adds depth to the flavor of rice.
The drying process is also strenuous. A frame made of bamboo and wood about 3 meters high called “hade” must be assembled for the harvested rice to be hung. Truly tasty rice is produced by expending the time, effort, and manpower.

After we were shown the rice paddies at Ecchan Farm, we were served rice balls made from Nitamai rice produced there. The rice ball had no ”nori, just white rice. The taste made us appreciate living in Japan.

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