Tantalizing taste of handmade tofu

Nagao Tofu Shop, established in 1948, uses domestically grown soybeans to make tofu without any additives or preservatives. They are particular about bittern and use “mizu-nigari” (water bittern). Mizu-Nigari uses natural magnesium chloride extracted from seawater, which is rich in minerals and produces tofu with the sweetness of nigari itself.

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In 2018, a young master brewer revived a brewery that was on the verge of going out of business, turned the helm to classic sake brewing, and continues to produce a string of high-profile products. How does he achieve such skill and inquisitiveness?

An up-and-coming toji who is highly respected in the industry

The city of Hirado, Nagasaki Prefecture, is a maritime city consisting of Hirado Island, which stretches long and narrow from north to south, and about 40 islands of various sizes scattered around the island. Known as “Philando” during the Age of Discovery, the city has developed as a trading center for people traveling between Japan and other countries. The scenery of the castle town, with its elegant rows of town houses, still remains, reminding us of the bustle of the old days.

In a corner of the town is the Mori Sake Brewery, a long-established sake brewery. Founded in 1895 by Kokichi Mori under the trade name “Komatsuya,” the brewery was incorporated in the 1930s and has been in business ever since. Currently, the brewery is headed by the fourth generation, Yukio Mori.

Until about five years ago, this sake brewery was on the verge of going out of business, with an annual production of less than 50 koku (1 koku = approximately 180 liters). Considering that it is generally said that a minimum of 400 koku is needed to run a sake brewery, the situation was quite difficult. The young toji, Yutaro Mori, the fifth generation of the brewery’s founder, was able to break through this situation.

I think anyone who was born in a brewery must have thought at least once about whether or not to take over the brewery,” he said. I was born and raised here, and I didn’t want to see the brewery disappear during my lifetime. That is why, at first, I wanted to preserve the brewery more than I wanted to make sake,” Yutaro recalls.

After deciding to take over the brewery, Yutaro majored in fermentation engineering at a university in Hiroshima. From undergraduate to graduate school, he studied cutting-edge sake brewing at the National Institute of Brewing Science, an independent administrative agency with which he was affiliated. However, his inquisitive mind and skills have already earned him a prominent position in the industry, and he is attracting attention as a “young toji prodigy.

After completing graduate school and three years of training at a sake brewery in Miyagi Prefecture, Yutaro returned to Hirado at the age of 27. Yutaro felt a sense of crisis at the time, as the brewery had been without a toji for many years and had not been able to produce the sake that he wanted.

I believe that good sake is created not only by sake brewing techniques, but also by the environment of the brewery,” he said. In other words, the daily attitude of the brewery will be reflected in the sake. That is what I learned at my training place. However, when I returned to Hirado, the tools were rusty, and the walls and ceiling were covered with mold. It was no longer possible to make sake properly. The first year I spent in Hirado, I first prepared the environment for sake brewing,” he said.

Maintaining a hygienic environment is very important for sake brewing, which requires the power of microorganisms. Yutaro polished all the available tools and machines, left the beams and pillars of the brewery, repainted the walls, and re-poured concrete. The new brewery has a clean production area, a direct sales store in a renovated warehouse that has remained from the time of the company’s founding, and an event space with a classic atmosphere inside the warehouse.

Mastering the art of sake brewing by letting nature take its course

When Yutaro returned to the brewery, there was no toji (master brewer) in charge of sake brewing, and sake made using a simple brewing technique called “liquefaction brewing” was only sold on the island.

Last year, the company introduced the traditional Japanese sake brewing process called “kimoto zukuri, ” which was established in the Edo period (1603-1868). In general, lactic acid for brewing is added to the mother of sake, which is the base of the unrefined sake, but in kimoto-zukuri, the lactic acid produced naturally by lactic acid bacteria is used. The process takes 40 to 45 days to complete, more than double the time required for normal sake brewing, and requires delicate control processes to cope with long-term changes in temperature and humidity.

On the other hand, in the sake brewing process, the yeast grows by natural means, competing with lactic acid bacteria for survival, resulting in the growth of strong and vigorous yeast and smooth fermentation. The various microorganisms produced during the fermentation process also affect the flavor of the sake, which has become increasingly popular among sake connoisseurs in recent years as a rich, full-flavored sake. Sake is also suitable for long-term aging, as it matures slowly over time, resulting in a sake with a solid core. Our sake tastes stable even after the bottle is opened, and we are confident of that,” he says proudly.

No Oaring, No Adding Water, No Filtration

Mori Sake Brewery does not use the oar-adding process, which is considered essential for sake brewing. Oaring is a process in which a long oar stick is used to stir the tank of unrefined sake to adjust the temperature and fermentation. In general, oar stirring is done twice a day, but here, the yeast is left to do its work and the natural convection is allowed to take place.

Furthermore, water is not added. Sake has a relatively high alcohol content among sake breweries worldwide, so most breweries add water to reduce the percentage of alcohol and adjust the balance of flavor. In addition, sake is not filtered to remove nigori (a thickening of the sake liquor) or to improve the aroma. Yutaro says, “For me, the best sake is the one that tastes the best when it is squeezed, so filtering or adding water is not part of my sake quality design.

Spreading the Terroir of Hirado to the Nation and the World

The main brand of Mori Sake Brewery is the “Hiran” series. Hiran” is the old name for Hirado. Mori Sake Brewery has been brewing sake with a focus on the local climate and hopes that the terroir (local character) of Hirado will be conveyed to the drinker as well. There is a wide range of varieties, from fruity and light, to deep-flavored, crisp and refreshing, to light and unctuous, perfect as an in-between-dinner drink.

For the water used as a raw material, the company has been using the famous water that springs from the foot of Saikyoji Temple, located about 1 km away from the brewery since its establishment. In addition to Yamadanishiki rice, which is known as the best sake rice for brewing sake, Nagasaki’s edible rice “Nikkomaru” is used. The sake has a sour and moderately bitter taste that is intended to complement meals and be both tasty and sharp, making it an irresistibly drinkable sake.

Nagasaki does not have its own sake rice, but as a Nagasaki brewery, we wanted to make it unique. We tried Nikkomaru. The flavor of Nikomaru is effective in its mild aroma, but it is also a sake that can be drunk without hesitation as a mealtime sake. Yutaro says, “Just like the origin of the name Nikkomaru, which means ‘to make you smile when you eat,’ our goal is to create a sake that will naturally make you smile when you drink it.

Brewed in harmony with nature, without overdoing it in terms of ingredients and brewing methods, “Hiran” won a gold medal at the “KuraMaster” sake competition held in France in 2021, the second highest award after the platinum medal. It was also awarded a gold medal at the UK’s KuraMaster competition, and is highly acclaimed overseas.

Cutting down the amount of ingredients to get closer to the natural one

Mr. Yutaro says that in the future he would like to be even more particular about his ingredients, and would like to use pesticide-free rice as well. His original decision to try out the kamishibashi method of sake brewing came from a single-minded desire to use a more natural production method.

I have a sensitive skin myself, and when I was growing rice, the pesticides made my skin rough,” Yutaro said. I wanted to reduce the amount of non-natural ingredients in the products that we put into our bodies, if possible, and that’s how I started making sake. Labor saving through rationality is also revolutionary, and it is because of this that sake brewing is flourishing today. If there are a variety of options, I would like to make sake in accordance with the flow of nature, not in accordance with the convenience of others.

Yutaro is not only pursuing the taste of sake, but also the background of sake production, including society, the natural environment, and the coexistence of humans and microorganisms. Ultimately, I’m aiming for about 1,000 koku. If I go beyond that, I won’t be able to keep my eye on things. First of all, I will work hard to achieve a reasonable scale that suits this brewery.

In a sense, Mori Brewery appears to be a cutting-edge sake brewery, embodying the ” coexistence with nature ” that has been lost in the rapidly changing times. In a sense, it is a cutting-edge sake brewery. This is exactly what his father, Yukio, meant when he said, “Sake brewing that connects us to each other.

The post Up-and-coming master brewer has returned to his roots in sake brewing “Mori Sake Brewery”/Hirado City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The Kaminohara Green Tea Farm is located at the top of Niradake Mountain overlooking the sea. The green tea produced at Uenohara Seichaen, located at the top of Niradake Mountain overlooking the sea, is made by the “kama-fire” method, which is extremely rare among Japanese teas. Why do they continue to use the ” kama-yori” method in the tea industry, where “steamed” tea is the mainstream? We interviewed the tea industry to learn more about the appeal of kamagairi tea and the passion that goes into its production.

Kama-firi-cha, a traditional tea production method

Tea is broadly divided into three types: fermented tea, semi-fermented tea, and unfermented tea, as tea lovers may have heard. Fermentation in tea means oxidation of tea leaves by the action of oxidizing enzymes. Fermented tea” refers to black tea, “semi-fermented tea” refers to oolong tea, and “unfermented tea” refers to the green tea we drink on a daily basis.

Green tea is generally produced by steaming and heating picked tea leaves to inactivate enzymes and stop fermentation. However, did you know that there is a type of green tea called ” kama-iricha,” in which fermentation is stopped by “roasting” rather than “steaming” the tea leaves? Kamabiricha tea is characterized by its kamaka (aroma) and clear, golden water color.

Kama-yori tea is the origin of green tea

The kamagairi method is said to have been introduced from China to the Kyushu region around the 15th century, and when sencha, Japan’s own steamed tea, was introduced in the 1700s, it replaced kamagairi tea not only for its flavor but also for its high production efficiency and ease of mass production. Sencha is the most common type of green tea produced in Japan. In other words, until the spread of sencha, all green teas in Japan were produced by the kamagairi method. Today, kamagairi tea accounts for less than 0.03% of all green teas produced in Japan (according to “Production by Tea Category in 2020” by the National Federation of Tea Producers Associations of Japan). Most of the production is limited to Nagasaki, Miyazaki, Kumamoto, and Saga prefectures, and a few other areas in the Kyushu region.

70 years of making rare kettle roasted tea

Kama-firi-icha is rarely seen, but one company that continues to produce this rare tea is Uenohara Seichaen in Nagasaki Prefecture. Sasa-cho, Kitamatsuura-gun, in the northern part of the prefecture, near the westernmost tip of mainland Japan. Mr. and Mrs. Koji Uenohara run the business on the 350-meter-high plateau at the top of Mt.

Koji’s grandfather, Kisuke Uenohara, cultivated the tea fields here 70 years ago. At that time, the surrounding area produced only kettle-fired tea, but with the wave of modernization, steaming machines were introduced nationwide, and the kettle-fired tea factories in the Kyushu region quickly shifted to sencha (roasted green tea).

Unintentional Remnants of the Kama-firi-Tea Production Method

The reason why Uenohara Seichaen did not introduce steaming machines in the 1970s was that they had just renovated their factory and did not have the funds to do so. Koji recalls with a wry smile, “We had just bought a new factory and new machines, and we felt left behind because we could not immediately buy new machines. This “failure” to introduce the steaming method at that time was one of the reasons why Uenohara Seichaen has continued to produce kettle-fired tea.

Aiming to convey a different appeal from sencha

In fact, the kettle-frying machines at Kaminohara Seichaen have only one-third the processing capacity of ordinary steaming machines, which is quite low. Sencha is more efficient to produce, and the heating stage tends to retain more of the flavor, so its quality is more easily evaluated and marketed,” says Koji. He says that he was a bit impatient and anxious at one time, as others around him were shifting to sencha production, but “there are very few places, including ourselves, that make kama-firi-cha,” he says. That is why we have to preserve the taste,” he says, and has been working hard to produce tea.

If ‘umami’ is the definition of quality, I am sure that sencha is easily evaluated. However, when it comes to which tea to pair with a meal, which tea to choose? When it comes to which tea to pair with a meal, a clean tea that does not interfere with the food is more likely to be preferred than a tea with a strong umami flavor. In that sense, kama-yaki is good. It also goes well with fried foods,” says Koji. In fact, in China and Taiwan, kama-firi-cha is the most popular tea for daily use as food tea. Koji is also pursuing the possibilities of kettle-fired tea and continues his research every day, saying, “I want as many people as possible to know the appeal of kettle-fired tea, which is different from sencha green tea.

Health tea for relaxation and a good night’s sleep

As a new challenge for kettle-fired tea, Koji began producing ” Gabaron-cha ” about 30 years ago. Gabarron Tea is a relatively new natural health tea that was accidentally created during research at the Tea Research Institute (now the Vegetable Tea Research Institute) in the 1980s. It is produced by anaerobically treating green tea leaves (placing them in an oxygen-free environment), which causes an enzyme in the leaves to change into a substance called gaba (gamma-aminobutyric acid).

GABA is a type of amino acid that is believed to have a relaxing effect, reduce stress, and improve the quality of sleep. It is also said to inhibit the increase of cholesterol and neutral fat, which cause arteriosclerosis, and has been attracting more and more attention in recent years. GABALON TEA” is named after its main ingredient “gaba” and “long” of oolong tea. The manufacturing process is the same as that used to make oolong tea, and it is classified as a semi-fermented tea. Koji says, “We have tried to make it easy to drink without losing any of the ingredients and without losing the distinctive aroma of kettle-fired tea. Through a process of trial and error, we have eliminated the bitterness and harshness characteristic of Gabalon tea and created a light, oolong-like flavor.

Original blended teas to suit your health condition

Uenohara Seichaen also produces and sells “Koso Cha,” a blend of Gabaron tea and medicinal herbs. Based on a blend of 11 medicinal herbs, including dokudami, safflower, black soybean, adlay, and loquat leaves, the tea is also available in original blends tailored to the drinker’s physical condition. Tea is something you drink every day. We hope to offer teas that gradually improve the body constitution, such as those that raise the basal body temperature and strengthen the immune system, just like Chinese herbal medicines,” he says.

Also opened a direct sales store.

In 2010, he opened a Japanese-style cafe “Ippuku” in the center of Sasa Town to “preserve the culture of kettle roasted tea and convey its charm. Visitors can purchase a variety of products including kama-yori tea from Uenohara Tea Farm, and relax while enjoying chazuke (rice with green tea) made with kama-yori tea and handmade zenzai (Japanese sweet made from soy beans).

No pesticides or chemical fertilizers

The Uenohara Tea Farm switched to pesticide-freefarming about six years ago in order to “grow tea that is more in tune with nature. Although weeding is done by hand, he says, “I just let nature take its course. In a sense, the workability has improved tremendously, and it doesn’t cost much anymore,” says Koji. When we first changed our methods, the harvest was often cut in half or things didn’t go well, but since the beginning of this year, the growing environment in the fields has improved greatly, and the taste and yield have become more stable.

We are working with nature, doing only what is necessary, without overdoing it.

Although sencha may be more in demand,” says Koji, “rather than making a lot of sencha, I can only make enough kama-firi-cha to reach the people who need it and in quantities that I can sell. When you see him loving the tea within his reach without overstretching himself, the taste of the clear, golden kamabai-cha (roasted tea leaves) becomes even more special.

He said, “Even if you don’t give pesticides or fertilizers to the tea trees, they will sprout and produce delicious tea even in their natural state. My grandfather planted tea trees on this land, which was never fertile to begin with, and they have taken root, passed down to my father and me. And now, I am deeply moved when I think that nature has made it possible to produce the buds that it wants to produce. As long as there are people who want to drink kettle roasted tea, I would like to keep this tea tree alive and make tea.

Koji’s cheeks relax as he looks back at the tea plantation spreading out on the top of Mt.

The post Kama-firi-icha, which accounts for less than 0.03% of all Japanese teas, is produced through natural farming at Uenohara Tea Farm/Sasa-machi, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Fukuda Shuzo is a long-established sake brewery that has been making sake in Hirado for about 330 years. The young brothers, Tatsuya and ShinjiFukuda, continue their pursuit of sake with a flavor that evokes the scenic beauty of Hirado, and that is both old tradition and newness. We took a closer look at the one-of-a-kind sake brewing process that can only be done in this region.

Japan’s westernmost sake brewery

The city of Hirado in Nagasaki Prefecture is located at the westernmost tip of the Kyushu mainland. It is a city of the sea, consisting of Hirado Island, which stretches long and narrow from north to south across the Hirado Seto, and about 40 islands of various sizes scattered around the island. It was the first place in Nagasaki where Christianity was preached, and in the 1600s it was the only Dutch trading port in Japan.

The Fukuda Sake Brewery has been brewing sake for 330 years in Hirado, founded in 1688 by Chojiheiemon Fukuda I as a purveyor to the Hirado clan. Today, the brewery is headed by the 14th generation Fukuda Akira, and his eldest son, Tatsuya, and his second son, Shinji, are responsible for the brewing process. The Fukuda series, the company’s flagship brand, won the Platinum Award in the Junmai-shu category at Kura Master, a sake competition held in France in 2018. The junmai ginjo of the same brand won gold in the junmai daiginjo-shu and junmai ginjo categories, and has steadily increased its recognition since then, winning gold for three consecutive years.

The company also produces Daiginjyo ” Fukutsuru ” and ” Nagasaki Bijin,” as well as ” Jagataraoharu,” a shochu made from Nagasaki-grown potatoes, “Kappitan,” a long-aged shochu produced by a secret method inherited from the Nanban people, and hon mirin (Japanese rice wine).

All raw materials are produced in Hirado

The rice used to make sake is mainly Yamada-Nishiki, known as the best rice for sake brewing, and is locally grown in Hirado. The Fukuda brothers have been working with a contracted farmer to revive terraced rice paddies in the area and cultivate the rice themselves. They do not use herbicides as much as possible, and they reduce weeds by manually and mechanically stirring up the mud in the paddy fields.

In the upper reaches of the terraced rice paddies, where there are almost no houses, there is no domestic wastewater, and the rice grown in the clear water from the mountains tastes different. By growing rice within reach, we are sensitive to changes in climate and environment, and this sensibility is also utilized in sake production,” says Tatsuya, the elder brother of the family.

This year, they have also started working again with a sake rice called ” reiho,” which was widely used in the Kyushu region in the 1970s. Yamada-Nishiki has a nice aroma and a clean taste, and in many ways it is an excellent rice. Reihou is easy to grow in warm regions and is suited to the climate of Hirado, so we are taking up the challenge again. It is said to have a mild aroma and a light mouthfeel, but I am looking forward to seeing how it will taste.

For brewing water, the company uses spring water fromYasumandake, the highest peak in Hirado City, which is included in the World Heritage Site “Nagasaki and Amakusa Region Related to Submerged Christians” and is rich in virgin forest. The low mineral content of the water and its softness and purity allow for slow fermentation, resulting in a mellow sake with no harsh taste.

The warm climate of this region and the fact that it is an old brewery make it difficult to control the temperature, but several years ago they replaced some of the enameled tanks with thermal tanks (tanks with cooling systems) to withstand the sudden temperature changes during the brewing season. Tatsuya says, “Since the temperature can be controlled on a tank-by-tank basis, we can manage unrefined sake without being affected by the outside air, which makes brewing easier.

Tasting the climate of Hirado through sake

Fukutsuru” and “Nagasaki Bijin” are representative of Fukuda Shuzo’s famous sake brewed in this way. Fukutsuru,” a daiginjo-shu made from home-grown Yamada-Nishiki and fermented slowly at low temperature, has a slightly sweet taste with a fruity flavor that is popular among women.

The “Fukuda” series, which has won numerous awards at sake competitions in Japan and abroad, is another popular new product from the Fukuda Shuzo brewery. Fukuda,” says Tatsuya, “has a soft aroma that blends well with the gentle flavor of Yamada Nishiki, and it has a clean aftertaste that makes it easy to drink without interfering with food. It is also attracting attention as a food sake, which is unique to Hirado, a city with an abundance of seafood.

Potato Shochu” unique to Nagasaki

In addition to sake, Fukuda Shuzo also produces shochu. In particular, “Jagataraoharu,” a potato shochu liqueur that is rare in Japan, is a popular brand that is well known locally. When one thinks of potato production, Hokkaido comes to mind, but Nagasaki is actually the second largest producer of potatoes after Hokkaido. The shochu is made from fresh potatoes, barley, and rice malt, and carefully distilled using techniques cultivated over many years. It is rich in potassium and vitamin C, which is not easily destroyed by heating, making it popular among health-conscious people. Incidentally, “Jagatara” refers to present-day Jakarta. It is said that the “Jakarta potato” brought from Jakarta became the “potato.

The Fukuda brothers say, “We named it after the history of the potato, as well as in memory of a Nagasaki woman named ‘Oharu-san’ who was once exiled to the land of Jakarta due to the Christian ban. The sake has a mild yet subtle potato flavor, and is best enjoyed while contemplating the history of Hirado, which has come into contact with the breath of Western civilization.

KAPITAN, a secret sake stored for 10 years

The barley shochu “Kabitan ” is another unusual shochu. The flavor of the barley is extracted through traditional atmospheric distillation, then packed in oak barrels and slowly aged for 5 to 10 years in a warehouse built at the time of the company’s founding. The amber-colored, matured “KAPITAN” is a secret sake with a spicy aroma characteristic of oak barrels, a mild flavor, and a rich, natural barley taste. It is recommended to drink it on the rocks or with water like whiskey, but it is best to enjoy it with a meal, as it has a refreshing taste with few peculiarities.

Hon Mirin,” which plays a starring role rather than a supporting role

Along with the wide variety of sakes, the most impressive is ” hon mirin,” or Japanese sweet cooking rice wine, made exclusively from locally produced ingredients. Mirin is subject to liquor tax because it contains 12-15% alcohol, and since the 2011 revision of the Sake Tax Law made it easier to obtain a manufacturing license, an increasing number of local sake breweries have obtained licenses to produce mirin and are working to develop new products. Fukuda Shuzo is one such company. After graduating from university, his younger brother Shinji learned mirin production at the brewery where he had trained, and obtained a license in 2016 after returning to his hometown. He obtained a license in 2016 after returning to his hometown, and is now producing “authentic” mirin while utilizing the know-how unique to a sake brewery.

Mirin is made using only three ingredients: locally grown glutinous rice called “mochi-minori,” rice malt, and rice shochu. While many mirin are made with brewing alcohol or sugar to compensate for the lack of saccharification, Fukuda Shuzo’s mirin is made the old-fashioned way, with the sweetness of the rice slowly extracted over a period of three months. We can’t say it enough, but it makes a big difference in the quality of our food,” said Shinji. It is also good to drink,” Shinji himself assures us.

Sake brewing is made with heart and nurtured by the wind.

Fukuda Sake Brewery has been in the brewing business for more than 330 years since receiving permission from the lord of the Hirado domain to produce “Fukutsuru” sake. As I listen to the story and sip the sake, I am reminded not only of the history and culture of Hirado, but also of the scenery of Hirado, including the fields where rice is grown and the mountains where water gushes out of the ground. And the smiling faces of the brewery workers who devote themselves to sake brewing.

The determination to carry on a family business that has been in existence for more than 300 years must be extraordinary. With this strong sense of mission in mind, he continues to work hard today to make sake that will be enjoyed by many people under the motto of ” making sake that brings smiles to people’s faces.

The post Fukuda Sake Brewery, which has been conveying the terroir of Hirado, Japan’s westernmost city, for more than 300 years / Hirado City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Shimada Ochadokoro uses carefully selected Sogicha from Nagasaki Prefecture and Yame tea from Fukuoka Prefecture to make its original products. How do they produce their products, which have won high acclaim both in Japan and abroad, including the “Japanese Tea AWARD” and the silver prize at the “Japanese Tea Selection Paris 2020,” the only Japanese tea competition in Paris? We visited Ms. Yuko Shimada of “Ochadokoro Shimada.

The award-winning “Ochadokoro Shimada

Three minutes walk from JR Isahaya Station in Nagasaki Prefecture. Located in a quiet urban area, not far from the Honmyo River, the only first-class river in the prefecture, “Ochadokoro Shimada” is a Japanese tea shop that has won many awards at domestic tea fairs such as “Japanese Tea AWARD” and the only Japanese tea competition in Paris, “Japanese Tea Selection Paris 2020” Silver Prize, and has attracted attention. The owner, Yuka Shimada, is the owner of the store.

The owner, Yuko Shimada, is from Higashisonogi-cho, a production area of “Sonogicha,” which has achieved remarkable results in the steamed tama-green tea category at recent national tea fairs. She was involved in the tea business as a wholesaler, buying tea leaves directly from tea farmers, blending and processing them, and then selling them. I am the sixth generation in the family to make Japanese tea. Since I was a child, I have watched my father purchase and process tea leaves, and I have learned the importance of tea finishing and how to look at the raw leaves,” he said. The store is lined with a variety of products that Mr. Shimada carefully purchases.

I think it is important to pass on the culture and excellence of Japanese tea to the next generation. We have been creating the ideal taste of Japanese tea by utilizing the experience and knowledge we learned from our predecessors and asking for cooperation from tea growers and tea makers to find out what kind of Japanese tea consumers want.

Shimada’s switch from a wholesaler to a retailer who sells directly to consumers has allowed him to directly feel the reactions of consumers. Using this strength, he communicates in detail to the tea growers his requests for the variety of tea leaves to be used, the degree of heat, and other details. His clients are producers of high-quality tea leaves in Nagasaki and Fukuoka prefectures. They are all highly skilled tea growers and tea makers with whom we have had a long relationship since the previous generation. The relationship of trust built up through the long history as a tea wholesaler is the key to the taste that Mr. Shimada pursues.

Promoting the deliciousness of Japanese tea and the beauty of tea culture

Mr. Shimada considers it his role to promote the excellence of tea culture inherited from his ancestors. While working as a Japanese tea instructor in Japan and abroad, he is constantly searching for ways to make “delicious Japanese tea” that fits modern lifestyles. For example, the development of collaborative products with local high school students is part of his activities. A variety of tea varieties including green tea, roasted tea, and brown rice tea were prepared and blended by the high school students to create “tea that high school students would want to put in their own bottles. Two things became clear from this experience. First, different generations have completely different tastes. Second, there is a need for high-quality “tea bag” products that allow students to brew tea without using a teapot. The taste of the tea they made was very weak to me. In other words, young people want tea that they can drink in gulps. After being in the tea industry for so many years, it is easy to get caught up in the umami, sweetness, and color of the tea. Of course that is very important, but it is equally important to recognize the difference in taste from what consumers, especially young people, are looking for,” he said. In light of the fact that the custom of brewing tea in a teapot is disappearing these days, the company is also focusing on the development of tea bags and instant tea products. The Japanese teabags we make are made from gauze, which allows the tea leaves to open easily when hot water is poured over them, bringing out their sweetness and aroma,” he says. While we respect Japanese teas with great flavor, water color, and sweetness that are highly evaluated at trade fairs, there should be teas that can be enjoyed casually in everyday life. While paying great respect to the efforts and techniques of tea growers who are preparing for the rigorous judging of their products, we are also seeking products that meet the needs of the times and do not fit too neatly into the old form. Mr. Shimada believes that such a light and flexible “way of Japanese tea” will lead to the further development of Japanese tea culture.

Awards and representative products of Shimada Tea House

Shimada’s main products are carefully selected “Sonogicha” from Nagasaki and “Yamecha” from Hoshinomura, Fukuoka. The wide range of products from top-quality teas to daily-use leaf teas, mizusashi teas, tea bags, and instant teas is attractive. The following three products are particularly noteworthy.

Yame Traditional Hon Gyokuro “Zesshin”.

The 2019 product won the Japanese Tea AWARD Grand Prize and the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award, while the 2020 product won the Silver Prize at the Japanese Tea Selection Paris, the only Japanese tea competition in Paris. The rich umami and aroma of this tea envelops the palate the moment it enters the mouth, and is a masterpiece of artisan craftsmanship that combines tradition and innovation.

Yame Sencha “Tsuyu Torori

Made in 2022 won the Platinum Award in the Gogumi Sencha category at the Japan Tea AWARD.

By blending varieties characterized by rich flavor, deep taste, etc., the aroma and flavor are at their best. You can enjoy a trolley of well-balanced tastes.

Roasted tea “Kaorihime

This green oolong tea is lightly wilted and carefully roasted to bring out its gentle and elegant floral and roasted aroma. It won the Silver Award at the 2021 Paris Japanese Tea Selection and the Platinum Award in the hojicha category at the 2022 Japanese Tea AWARD.

Pursuing the Future of Japanese Tea

Mr. Shimada’s goal is to create Japanese teas that fit comfortably into the modern Japanese lifestyle. First of all, he is developing teabags and mizudashi teas that can be brewed without using a teapot, with the aim of making it easy to enjoy Japanese tea in everyday use. On the other hand, however, there are many people who want to fully enjoy the individuality of high quality Japanese tea by brewing it in an authentic way. I am in a position to listen to the voices of both consumers and producers. I am in a position to listen to both consumers and producers, and I will continue my efforts to create “tasty and pleasant Japanese tea” for a wide variety of targets by incorporating the opinions and requests of both parties and actively reflecting the opinions of those outside the tea industry.

Until the establishment of the Sogicha Promotion Council about 35 years ago, Japanese tea from Nagasaki Prefecture was sold as “Ureshino-cha” from Saga Prefecture. Today, however, the presence and brand power of Nagasaki tea is growing by the day, as evidenced by the fact that Sonogicha won first place in Japan in the steamed tama green tea category at a national tea fair. The growers are very positive and have high skills and abilities. If we can work together with them to set clear taste goals and achieve them, I think Japanese tea will become even more interesting,” says Mr. Shimada. He continues to promote Japanese tea culture to consumers with respect for tea producers and passion and love for Japanese tea, while cherishing the ties that his predecessors have built as a tea wholesaler. We see a bright future for the Japanese tea industry in Mr. Shimada’s cheerful and flexible attitude as he continues to take on the challenge of “making delicious tea.

The post Truly delicious Japanese tea” – Shimada, a tea shop /Isahaya City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Teppei Kojima, a ceramic artist who produces pottery under the name “Tetsu Kobo” in Aburagi-cho, Nagasaki, produces a large number of everyday-use vessels using traditional techniques and raw materials he has researched independently.

The “living creatures” series, which depicts the “living forms” of animals he has seen with his own eyes, and other works
have a unique appearance that is hard to find anywhere else.

Typical slipware has a soft, rounded comb pattern and a lattice pattern, but Teppei Kojima, who has a studio in Nagasaki City, creates slipware with a distinctly unique appearance using creatures as a motif. We visited ” Tetsu Kobo ” to meet Mr. Kojima, who is almost entirely self-taught in pottery making.

What is slipware?

Slipware is pottery that is decorated with a muddy clay called ” slip ” and fired. The unique texture of slipware, represented by soft, rounded stripes and wave patterns, has a solid presence that can only be achieved by hand.

Vessels born in England and raised in Japan

Slipware, which was made actively in England from the 18th to the 19th century, was mainly used as oven dishes, and was brought to the table as it was baked, supporting the daily dining table. Slipware was eventually swallowed up by the wave of industrialization and disappeared as mass-produced products became more common, but the founders of the Mingei (folk art) movement, including Muneyoshi Yanagi, took notice of slipware in faraway Japan. Their encounter with English potter Bernard Leach brought slipware back into the spotlight, and it gradually gained recognition, becoming increasingly popular in the 2000s.

Infinitely Expanding Slipware Patterns

Slipware is characterized by stripes and arrow feather patterns with rounded, soft curves. Well-known methods include drawing patterns on top of freshly-dried decorative clay with a dropper or tube, or scratching patterns on top of it with a stick. Because each piece is hand-painted, no two vessels are the same, and the artist’s individuality overflows into the slipware, which is another interesting aspect of slipware. Among them, Nagasaki-based ceramic artist Teppei Kojima continues to create unique slipware with motifs of living creatures.

From a Salaried Worker to a Potter

A room in a small building in Nagasaki City. When you step into “Tetsu Kobo,” your eyes are greeted by a hearth and the old tools that surround it. Books on folk arts and crafts lined the shelves, creating a world that resembled a small, cozy restaurant. Mr. Teppei Kojima, dressed in a kimono, greeted us.

The money is just enough to live on. I want to do what I love.

He was born in Nagasaki City. After graduating from university, he worked at a restaurant in Tokyo, but decided to leave and return to Nagasaki to find what he really wanted to do after spending too much time going back and forth between home and work. After that, he worked as a waterproofer, in sales, and as a manual laborer, but none of these jobs lasted long. On the other hand, Kojima began to take up ceramics after returning to his hometown and became absorbed in the art. He has loved making things ever since he can remember, and it was a precious time for him to lose himself in it. What he has always held in his heart is, ” All I need is enough money to make a living. I want to do what I love. It was a natural progression for him to pursue a career in ceramics.

When I was in college, there was a potter who stayed at my place of residence, and we would spend about a week fishing every day and drinking and talking with each other. Seeing his lifestyle, I envied him and thought, “If only I could become a potter, I could have such a life.

Painting for a change became his own style

Shortly after he started taking pottery classes, Kojima began to pay attention to slipware, which was gaining attention after a certain art magazine ran a feature on it. The teacher taught him the technique and he tried it at home, but “line drawings were difficult for an amateur and did not turn out well,” he recalls. Then, he happened to come across a book that featured the work of the late Kenji Funaki, one of Japan’s leading slipware artists, who had trained at Bernard Leach’s kiln in England.

He had trained at Bernard Leach’s kiln in England and was one of the most famous slipware artists in Japan. I tried drawing them myself as a change of pace, and to my surprise, it turned out to be a good idea. I thought that painting might be better suited to me than lines.

He spent many nights at home until midnight, painting on vessels and then bringing them to the class to be fired. Finally, “My teacher told me to buy my own kiln,” he said, and he bought an electric kiln for himself. He taught himself to study glazes and slip techniques.

Becoming a Professional in Just Three Years

In 2011, two years after he began making ceramics, Kojima received the Nagasaki Ceramics Exhibition’s Jury’s Special Prize. The following year, he won the Grand Prize in the category of ceramics for daily life at the same exhibition. In the same year, he was also approached by the ” Ginza Handicrafts Direct Seller ” at Matsuya Ginza, and this was the catalyst for his professional career.

I was asked to stay at the gallery for a week,” he said. But I was an office worker at the time, and I couldn’t take a week off work. If I refused, I thought, I would never become a potter.

Kojima decided to quit his job and devote himself to ceramics. Since then, he has steadily built a professional career, continuing to participate in the “Ginza Handicrafts Direct Selling Shop” every year.

Kojima-san is known for his paintings of living creatures.

Mr. Kojima is known for his vessels with lively creatures painted on them. In addition to his standard deer, octopus, and rabbit, in recent years, his yokai (monsters) series, including Nurikabe, Hitotsukomen, and Oni (ogres), have become popular.

Kojima’s view of the world, completed in three minutes

Slipware is made by pouring mud plaster (deisho, slip: a mixture of water and clay in a muddy state) on a freshly dried vessel, and then immediately painting over the top with another layer of mud plaster all at once. If it dries out, you will not be able to paint,” he said. Each dish takes only about three minutes to paint,” says Kojima.

Watching him paint, the process looks easy enough, but he has the experience to handle the pot with the right amount of pressure when holding the dropper filled with mud plaster. Even a single dot can change its balance if its size is slightly different,” says Kojima. It is really difficult to adjust the strength and weakness of the spot with the dropper.

If the amount of water in the mud plaster is too much, the painting will spread out and will not be finished beautifully, and the drying process is also prone to cracks and deformation due to the shrinkage rate. Conversely, too little water can cause the colors to peel off during the firing process, making the adjustment of mud plaster concentration an extremely important factor in slipware.

The speed at which the painting soaks into the slipware, the saltiness with which the lines spread, and the colors that emerge when the slipware is fired are all factors that must be considered when adjusting the density. You adjust the density while calculating these things. It is really difficult to make it thicker or thinner. Some people use a densitometer.

As much as possible, I use natural products that I made myself.

For the mud plaster, he uses bengara, a natural pigment. For the glaze, he uses a rare stone called kimachi-shiroishi, produced in Shimane, combined with a base of wood ash that he cooked himself. I can buy the ash if I want to, but I have to be careful about what kind of wood is used and where it comes from, and sometimes there are things other than wood mixed in, such as magazines and newspapers, so it is safer to make it myself,” he says. I try to make what I can myself,” he says.

Perhaps because of this, many of Kojima-san’s slipware have a somewhat gentle, natural feel to them, and his paintings have a light, unique, yet relaxed look to them.

They come in a variety of sizes and shapes. The 7″ plates are deep and easy to use for salads and oden, while the 5″ flat plates can be used as cake plates or serving plates. The 3″ bean plates are also carefully painted, and the expressions and lively movements of the animals and monsters never tire of being seen.

Seeking to establish his own style

Kojima says with a wry smile, “I’ve never been good at drawing pictures, so sometimes it’s hard for me. But, oddly enough, it was after seeing the late Kenji Funaki’s vessels that he began to draw pictures of living creatures, which led him to the path he is on today. Recently, he has made it a daily routine to draw ink paintings using ink he has ground himself, hoping to “improve my painting even if only a little.

At the same time, he is now adding to his collection of vessels made with sumi-hajiri ink. Sumi-Hajiri is a long-established technique of removing the white from the ink by utilizing the ink’s ingredients, and is contrasted with slipware, which is characterized by rounded corners, in that it produces a crisp, sharp look.

I didn’t go to pottery school, and I don’t have a proper teacher. That’s why I really have no choice but to do it as a round-robin competition. I think that if I continue to do this for a long time to come, one day I will be able to paint my own pictures and get closer to my own style,” he says with a cheerful laugh.

Kojima has found the right place to do what he truly loves. She says that although she took a slight detour, she has turned it all into a learning experience, and that her work is somehow gentle and warm. The mysterious sense of security that makes us want to pick up a piece of her work when we need a breather in our daily lives is a result of her commitment to making her customers happy. We hope you will add one of these pieces to your collection. You will find yourself with it in the front row of your cupboard.

I have been completing my work by clearing each challenge one by one in my own way. I am proud to say that these are my own unique vessels with my own unique twist. I hope you will keep it with you and use it a lot.

The post Teppei Kojima, “Tekkobo,” a slipware artist who is “almost entirely self-taught” / Nagasaki City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Based on the simplicity of casual usability, the woodworker Koji Hori’s
unique style with his subtle design as an artist is very attractive.
He carefully produces vessels filled with simple gentleness one by one,
which can bring a little warmth and serenity to your daily life, as well as time and space.

Mr. Koji Hori makes wooden utensils in Sasebo City, Nagasaki Prefecture. His tableware that brings out the universal qualities of wood, such as the grain and texture, is so well received that some customers wait a year for their tableware. We visited his workshop in Sasebo City to find out.

From a Self-Defense Forces Personnel to a Woodworker

The northern part of Nagasaki Prefecture. In a corner of an industrial area by the sea in Sasebo City, there is a small workshop. In a space of about 10 tatami mats, there are many pieces of wood, machines, and tools. On a shelf at the entrance, freshly finished wooden tools are randomly lined up.

Leaving the Self-Defense Forces to Work for an Interior Design Company

Born and raised in Sasebo City, Nagasaki Prefecture, Mr. Hori was influenced by his father, who was a member of the Maritime Self-Defense Force, and after graduating from high school, he joined the Maritime Self-Defense Force himself. He has a unique background in that he was transferred from Sasebo Air Base to Yokosuka, where he was engaged as a Self-Defense Forces member.

After working as a Self-Defense Forces member for three years, he found a job at an interior design company in Tokyo, hoping to work in the furniture business, which he had always been interested in. At the same time, Mr. Hori had always wanted to make a living by making his own wooden furniture someday. His first encounter with woodworking was when he started attending a woodworking class on weekends. The more he learned about woodworking, the more he was drawn into its deep appeal. However, after conducting his own market research, Mr. Hori felt that it would be difficult to make a living making furniture. So he started making wooden trays as part of his tableware line, which included wooden bowls andcutlery that he had enjoyed since he was a young man.

Creating during the day, working part-time at a tavern at night

After moving to Kamakura and commuting to work at a company in Tokyo while continuing to make trays on weekends, it was around 2006 that Mr. Hori started his own business. At first, he had few clients, and in the evenings he made a living by working part-time at a nearby izakaya (Japanese-style pub). What brought about a change in his situation was a general merchandise store that he jumped into as a sales pitch. The owner, a connoisseur, selected and sold carefully crafted household goods, and the store was well known throughout Japan.

I’m really not good at sales,” he said. I researched stores that had a concept close to my own, and I gathered up all my courage and made a sales pitch,” he recalls with a wry smile.

I wanted to create something beautiful and usable for a long time. It was a great encounter with a general store that was quick to adopt such a now commonplace point of view, and once business began, Hori’s wooden tools naturally took on a life of their own . After the business relationship began, Hori’s wooden tools naturally began to take on a life of their own.

Tools for Any Occasion

Currently, Mr. Hori is working on a wide range of tableware, including trays, bowls, spoons, forks, butter cases, and more. His works, which are characterized by the carved patterns that remain on the surface of each piece of wood, are easy to fit in one’s hand and give a sense of warmth. After carving, he soaks the carved pieces in wood hardener, which preserves the texture and feel of the wood and increases its strength, and lets them dry. When we use urethane paint, it inevitably has a plastic feel. I use sesame oil because I want the wood to feel like it has its own texture,” says Hori. The natural texture of the wood is perfect for everyday use, special occasions , oras a gift, and can be used in any situation.

Speaking of Mr. Hori, round trays

One of Mr. Hori’s best-known creations is the round tray. In addition to having a deep and stable rim, the natural texture of the tray and the ease with which it fits in one’s hand make it a perfect supporting piece for a variety of dishes. The medium-sized tray can be used as a plate, while the small-sized tray is perfect for placing a drink and a small snack. The wood’s ability to change color with age and develop a deeper sense of flavor is also a unique quality of the wood.

Inspired by old folk tools sunk at the bottom of a dam

One thing that many of Hori’s works have in common is a unique carving pattern of straight lines wavy in the middle. This style was inspired by the Wagatabon of Ishikawa Prefecture. Wagatabon originated in the village of Wagaya (now Kaga City), where carpenters and joiners carved chestnut trees with a single chisel as a tool for daily life. It is said that the Gaya-bon once ceased to exist in the Showa period (1926-1989), when Gaya-mura sank below the bottom of a dam, but in recent years, a nationwide movement of woodworkers who are self-taught in the technique are trying to revive it.

Mr. Hori is one of those who are fascinated by the Gaya-bon. Because they are folk tools, they have a rough-hewn, rugged look and feel, and he has taken this and sublimated it beautifully into his own style. The wood used and the process of making the trays are different, but I cut the trays by hand, daring to leave straight lines. The power of each line is very powerful when you see the finished product.

A new base that combines atelier, gallery, and residence

In 2017, Hori returned to his hometown of Sasebo City, where he continues to work in his current studio. He commutes to his atelier every morning from his house a short distance away, but he is now planning to “eventually build a base that combines an atelier, gallery, and residence, and live surrounded by the things I make.

While working in silence, I serve tea to visitors to the gallery and invite people over for small parties. It’ s not fancy by any means, but I would be happy if I could lead a rich life in the sense that it fills my heart, and if I could fulfill my life with it. I would like to make art objects someday,” he says of his endless dreams.

The expression of the uneven wood that is visible and hidden in the simplicity and sharpness of the work. Hori’s wooden tools remind us that it is this fluid beauty that contrasts with the uniformity and orderliness of mechanical beauty, and that is why we will always be fascinated by them. We look forward to the birth of a new center in the near future where we can pick up Hori’s tools and experience their natural beauty.

Having even one “wooden” item on the dinner table every day adds warmth and serenity to the space and time spent there. I would be happy if you could feel a little healing by using my work in your hectic daily life and enjoy the pleasure of living with woodwork.

The post Wooden tools born by leaning on different wooden expressions Woodworker, Koji Hori / Sasebo, Nagasaki, Japan first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In a very small area of about 13 hectares in Mizuho Town, Unzen City, “Unzen Tea” is grown using volcanic ash soil from the Shimabara Peninsula and original organic compost. We visited Mr. Atsushi Nagata, the third generation of Nagata Seicha, a tea farmer at the foot of Mt. Unzen, who continues to take on new challenges every day while maintaining his unique “Fukamushi Tamaraku” method.

Unzen Tea” grown in the rich soil at the foot of Mt.

Unzen, which rises in the center of the Shimabara Peninsula in Nagasaki Prefecture. Unzen, Unzen tea is grown in the mid-mountainous area at an altitude of 50 to 200 meters above sea level. The cultivation of Japanese tea began in this area around 1935 (Showa 10). While mandarin orange cultivation was being promoted as a national policy at the time, the first generation of Nagata Tea Company, which will be introduced later, planted tea trees in Mizuho Town that suited the soil and climate at the foot of Mount Unzen. For about 90 years since then , “Unzen Tea” has been produced in a small area of about 13 hectares. Because it is located in the southern part of the prefecture, the harvest is relatively early. Unzen tea, grown healthily in the clean air, rich soil, and sunshine, has a reputation for its umami taste and bright color.

Characteristics of Unzen Tea

When most people think of Japanese tea, the thin needle-like leaves of “sencha” tea probably come to mind. However, the tea produced in Nagasaki Prefecture is mainly steamed Tamaryokucha (steamed green tea with curved leaves). In the process of steaming raw tea leaves at high temperature to stop fermentation and then rubbing and drying them, the leaves become rounded. The tea is sometimes called “guri-cha” because it looks like a gradient ball.

Unzen tea is also a “steamed Tamaryokucha,” which is dried by letting air in the tea leaves without going through the “fine rubbing” process to shape the tea leaves like sencha, so that the tea leaves retain much of their flavor and have a mild taste with reduced astringency.

Nagata Seicha, which has been making Unzen tea for three generations

In the mountains of Mizuho Town, Unzen City. Driving along a mountain road covered with terraced fields, we saw the tea plantation of Nagata Seicha. When I visited there in early May, the harvest had just passed its peak. This year, due to the cold winter, the harvest of the early varieties was late, but the mid- and late-season varieties were as usual, so the harvest was quite tight,” he said. Mr. Atsushi Nagata of Nagata Tea Manufacturing welcomed us with a smile, saying that he is the third generation in the company’s 5-hectare tea plantation that has been in operation since 1935 and handles all aspects of Japanese tea production, including cultivation, production, and sales.

After graduating from Saga University, Mr. Nagata spent two years training in tea production at the National Institute of Vegetable and Tea Research in Shizuoka Prefecture before returning to his hometown, where he became fully involved in the family business at the age of 25. Currently, he grows more than 10 varieties of tea, mainly Saemidori, which is said to have a good balance of taste and aroma, and Okuyutaka, which was recommended to him by his former teacher during his training in Shizuoka Prefecture. Okuyutaka is a popular tea with a clean and refreshing aftertaste. He is always in pursuit of “truly delicious tea” while understanding the individuality of each variety.

Nagata Seicha has its own unique method of tea production. Unzen tea is basically steamed Tamaryokucha, but we have developed a method called “Fukamushi Tamaryokucha” in which the steaming time is longer than usual. We also roast the tea in a kettle to give it an aromatic flavor. This process has been continued since my grandfather’s generation. The result is a mellow green tea with a beautiful aroma and color. Mr. Nagata also makes various attempts to bring out the original flavor of tea, such as “wilted tea,” in which plucked tea leaves are slightly fermented, “white tea” that has not been heated and is brewed in water, and Japanese black tea. In collaboration with a trusted Japanese tea instructor, he is exploring and pursuing the unique appeal and possibilities of Unzen tea.

Initiatives of Nagata Tea Manufacturing

The soil at the foot of Mt. Unzen, where Nagata Seicha is located, is volcanic ash soil mixed with black soil and red soil. The soil drains well, and the tea fields are soft to the touch. Mr. Nagata has nurtured this soil slowly and carefully over many years. For example, in winter, he applies his original compost, a blend of organic matter based on cow manure, and in fall he spreads rice straw to retain moisture and prevent weeds. The compost and rice straw are all from the Shimabara Peninsula. They also cultivate tea completely without pesticides to ensure safe and secure tea production. My father always told me that good tea comes from healthy trees,” says Mr. Nagata. This year, he and his colleagues developed a method to crush wild boars captured as a measure against animal damage and use them as fertilizer, and have started soil cultivation using this method. In addition, they have been experimenting with the use of grape pomace from a winery on the Shimabara Peninsula as a fertilizer. The results will come out in a couple of years,” he said. We are looking forward to seeing the effects on the tea plantation. The goal is recycling-oriented agriculture with an eye on the future. We are challenging ourselves to find a healthy way of farming that we can pass on to the next generation.

Communicating the appeal of Unzen tea from the café

Mr. Nagata felt that simply growing tea leaves in the fields, processing, and shipping them as in the past was not enough to pass on and develop tea culture, so he opened the Japanese tea cafe “Poppoya Chaba” as a new base in 2017. About a 10-minute drive from the tea fields, the store overlooking the Ariake Sea and local train line in front of it was renovated from the home of Mr. Nagata’s maternal parents, giving it a nostalgic atmosphere.

The menu uses a variety of local organic and traditional vegetables as well as Unzen tea. It regularly holds events such as workshops for elementary school students and tea brewing classes, and has a store corner where Nagata Seicha’s tea leaves can be purchased. The company’s goal is to offer consumers the appeal and enjoyment of Unzen tea directly to them through a comprehensive process from planning to production, distribution, and sales. I am a producer who works in the field. However, I cannot know the reaction of consumers only by repeating trial and error in the field. Since establishing a base outside the fields, I have had more opportunities to interact with the outside world and gain new perspectives. I take the issues that arise from these interactions back to the fields and use them as my next goal.

The photogenic café, located right in front of the local train station, attracts tourists from inside and outside of the prefecture every day. The Shimabara Peninsula, a treasure trove of seafood from the sea and mountains, has recently seen an increase in the number of “food professionals” who have moved to the area to work in the agriculture and restaurant industries. I hope to spread not only Unzen tea, but also the food culture that the Shimabara Peninsula prides itself on, from this café,” says Nagata. Mr. Nagata loves Shimabara, where he was born and raised, and is excited about the new form he hopes to inherit.

The future of Unzen tea looks bright, as this small production area of about 13 hectares is expanding its possibilities beyond the boundaries of Japanese tea.

The post Unzen tea made by Nagata, Shimabara Peninsula, Nagasaki Prefecture / Unzen City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In Nagasaki, there is a hot spring resort that is said to have the highest “hot spring calorific value” in Japan, which is calculated by multiplying the amount of hot spring water gushing out by the temperature of the hot spring water. On the west side of the Shimabara Peninsula is Kohama Onsen, a hot spring where steamy water billows out from every corner of the town. We visited Tatehiro Kimura of “Unzen Ecolo Salt,” who continues to make salt using an environmentally friendly method that makes use of the energy of the land.

About the Shimabara Peninsula where Kohama Onsen is located

The Shimabara Peninsula, located in the southern part of Nagasaki Prefecture, is rich in natural beauty and is known as the “Nagasaki Prefecture Shimabara Peninsula UNESCO World Geopark,” centering on the active volcano “Unzen Volcano”. The peninsula has a large underground magma reservoir that has sometimes caused major disasters, but has also provided geothermal heat and hot springs to the people living on the peninsula. The peninsula is also known as “Unzen Hot Spring Resort” because the hot spring resorts of Shimabara, Unzen, and Obama are located across the peninsula from east to west, and many more are scattered along the north and south sides of the peninsula.

Obama Hot Spring Features

Kohama Onsen, located on the west side of Unzen Hot Spring Resort, is a scenic hot spring resort overlooking Tachibana Bay where the sunset is beautiful. The town is dotted with about 30 hot spring sources, so one can see the steam rising from them here and there. The temperature of the hot spring is extremely high, around 105 degrees Celsius, and the “hot spring calorific value,” which is calculated by multiplying the amount of hot spring water gushing out by the temperature of the water, is the highest in Japan. The area has so much geothermal energy that a power generation project is underway.

History of Obama Hot Springs and Salt Making

Kohama Onsen, which boasts an unparalleled amount of hot spring heat, has a history of flourishing in the salt manufacturing industry. Taking advantage of the location of the high-temperature hot springs near the coast, the salt manufacturing industry began in earnest in 1941. The salt manufacturing method is the hot water boiling method, in which pumped up hot spring water is evaporated by the heat of the source. The salt imports were drastically reduced due to the World War II, and the local salt supply had to be secured as soon as possible. During the postwar period, when supplies were scarce, salt production in the area accounted for 2% of the nation’s salt production. However, the salt production method required large quantities of hot spring water, and by 1955, the salt sources were nearly depleted. However, the salt production method, which required large quantities of hot spring water, was affected by the depletion of the source in 1955. Furthermore, natural disasters and cheap salt imports from overseas gradually made it unprofitable, and in 1965, salt production at Obama Onsen completely ceased.

Tatehiro Kimura, who revived salt production at Kohama Onsen

The history of the salt manufacturing industry in Kohama Onsen was completely cut off. However, after about 50 years, someone has single-handedly restarted salt production in Kohama, using an environmentally friendly method. He is Tatehiro Kimura of Unzen Ecolo Salt.

Mr. Kimura originally ran a sushi restaurant in Nagasaki City and was a skilled sushi chef himself. He is very particular about the taste of his food and wants his customers to enjoy delicious dishes. I used to make salt in my own way,” he said. The customers were always impressed with the taste of the soup,” he said! I was very impressed with the taste. Witnessing the importance of salt in cooking, I was inspired to think that one day I would like to make ‘really delicious salt’ in my hometown,” he says.

Mr. Kimura’s passion for salt production grew day by day. It was at the age of 60 that he decided to close his sushi restaurant and enter the world of salt manufacturing. I learned how salt is made using hot spring heat from a former employee of a salt factory in Obama, and I visited salt makers all over the country. Through trial and error, I arrived at my current method. In 2011, Kimura’s salt production finally began in earnest when he was granted permission to operate a salt manufacturing business at the source managed by the city.

Visit Unzen Ecolo Salt Co.

When we visited Unzen Ecolo Salt, located along the coast not far from the center of Obama Onsen Town, we found Mr. Kimura quietly working alone in a factory filled with the heat of the hot spring water. Hot water was pouring out of a drilling machine beside the factory, where a cloud of steam was rising, through a channel. The temperature of the spring water is 105 degrees Celsius, but this water is exposed to the air, so it’s probably 92.3 degrees Celsius,” said Kimura. There is a large magma pool at the bottom of Tachibana Bay. The reason the hot water at Obama Onsen is so hot is because it is so close to this magma pool, ” he says, pointing to the calm Tachibana Bay stretching out before him.

Making Unzen Ecolo Salt

The factory has a pool filled with hot spring water, in which several containers the size of a tatami mat are floated. In these containers, hot spring water and seawater pumped up from the seafloor of Tachibana Bay are added, and the salt is concentrated by slowly boiling the water in the pool. The salt concentration is about 0.2% hot spring water and 3% seawater. The blend is said to produce a mellowness that cannot be expressed by seawater alone. When the salt crystals harden, they are roughly scraped off with a special wooden spatula. Licking the salt at this point leaves a pungent taste on the tongue due to the nigari component, but drying the salt in the sun in a shed next to the factory rounds out the flavor and gives it a silky texture. Obama’s salt, which is made by slowly and carefully concentrating nature’s bounty, has gained a reputation by word of mouth and is now receiving orders from famous restaurants nationwide, including hotel restaurants, steak houses, sushi restaurants, and boulangeries.

The lack of sudden temperature changes produces salt as smooth as snow.

The size and texture of the crystals change depending on how the fire is set.

Environmentally friendly salt production

Most of the salt currently available in Japan is produced using a salt manufacturing method that requires a large amount of fuel, and is feared to be environmentally destructive due to its high CO2 emissions. Unzen Ecolo Salt, on the other hand, efficiently utilizes the heat from hot springs to produce environmentally friendly salt. The hot spring water used at Unzen Ecolo Salt is water that used to be discarded into the sea without being used. In Obama, 15,000 tons of hot spring water gushes out in one day. But in fact, about 35% of it is discharged into the ocean unused. This is a real waste. I thought there was no way to avoid using it to make salt,” says Kimura. Currently, “Unzen Ecolo Salt” produces about 1 ton of salt per year, and the utility cost is only 6,000 yen. The salt is produced by gradually evaporating brine from a high-temperature spring, which requires almost no fuel. It is truly an environmentally friendly method of salt production that does not waste nature’s bounty.

Product Usage and Characteristics

From the transportation of the underground seawater pumped up by drilling to the inspection and bagging of the products, Mr. Kimura does everything by hand to make “Unzen Ecolo Salt” salt. The salt comes in a variety of forms, from a fine powder that melts like snow to grains and liquid salt that leaves a nice texture on the tongue, but the most popular are “Kohama Onsen Salt Jewel” and “Seasoning Liquid Salt.

Obama Onsen Salt Jewel

A mild salt with minerals dissolved in the hot spring water and a delicious flavor. It is a well-balanced blend of hot spring water and seawater pumped up from the seabed of Tachibana Bay, with slightly coarse crystals. The crystals are slightly coarse and gently enhance the original flavor of the ingredients.

Seasoning liquid salt

Liquid salt blended with hot spring water and seawater with a salt content of approximately 20%. Soak sashimi in this salt and refrigerate for half a day to two days to tighten the flesh and enhance the flavor. It can be used for grilled fish, yakitori, baking, etc. It is also recommended for making onigiri (rice balls),” says Kimura. This product is the result of his experience as a former sushi chef.

Mr. Kimura’s passion for salt production

A survey revealed that the salt produced by Mr. Kimura contains a good balance of minerals that are ideal for the human body. Salt is like air to humans. We take it for granted, so the quality is important,” says Kimura. The taste of salt changes slightly depending on the weather and temperature, and like a living creature, salt shows different expressions every day. Kimura intends to devote the rest of his life to the charm and potential of salt.

When asked about his future plans after 10 years of salt production, he replied, ” There is romance in salt production. I will just continue to silently make salt with the belief that the salt I make is the best salt available,” he said. The reason why Unzen Ecolo Salt is favored by food professionals is not only because of the condensed taste of the blessings of the sea and the mountains, but also because of Kimura’s earnest passion.

The post Mild salt produced in the hot spring area with the highest calorific value in Japan, slowly condensing the blessings of nature / Unzen City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Iki Beef” is also known as a rare and rare beef because of its taste and rarity. Born in the blessed natural environment of Iki Island, a small island in the Sea of Genkai, and raised on grass rich in minerals from the sea, the beef is tender, rich, and crisp. The tour will unravel the history of Wagyu beef in Iki, which has a history dating back to the Yayoi period, and visit Umeshima Farm, a fattening farm that raises high-quality Iki beef.

What is Iki Island, which raises fantastic and famous beef?

Iki Island is a small island in the Genkai Sea in Kyushu, 17 km from north to south and 14 km from east to west. The island’s mild climate and rich natural environment have allowed an agricultural culture to flourish since ancient times, and its proximity to the Chinese mainland and the Korean peninsula has made it a prosperous center for cultural exchange. The island has been closely associated with the gods since ancient times, as evidenced by its appearance in Japan’s oldest historical book, Kojiki, as “Amenohitotsubashira,” which serves as a transportation route between heaven and earth.

The roots of Wagyu come from Nagasaki! 　History of Iki Island and Wagyu

The history of cattle breeding on Iki Island is long. Iki, which was a base for continental exchange, gathered various cultures via the Korean Peninsula, and it is thought that the ancestors of Iki beef also came to the island at that time. The bones of domestic cattle have been excavated from the “Hara no Tsuji Ruins,” which tells the history of Iki in the Yayoi period, and furthermore, in the illustrated “Surugi Eshi” of the Kamakura period about domestic cattle, they appear as “Surugi” pulling an ox cart. In the “Ten Illustrations of National Cattle,” also from the Kamakura period, it is praised as “nothing is superior to Tsukushi cattle (Iki cattle),” and there is a description that it was used as food by the Yuan army during the time of the Yuan invasion.

From Service Cattle to Food Cattle

Iki’s Wagyu cattle were mainly used as service cattle for transportation, taking advantage of their well-proportioned physique. The reason why the breed has been handed down from the Yayoi period to the present through the mechanization of agriculture is because of the quality of its meat. Iki is an island where rice cultivation has long flourished. The island is small enough to drive around in less than two hours, and has the second largest “Fukae Tabaru Plain” in Nagasaki Prefecture, where rice cultivation has thrived since ancient times, taking advantage of the fertile soil, mild climate, and abundant water. It is said that “Iki cattle” began when they were used as oxen to pull ox carts for agricultural work, etc. The bones of domestic cattle have been excavated from ruins from the Yayoi period on the island, suggesting that cattle meat was already being consumed at that time. It is said that the reason why cattle continued to remain on Iki Island even after agricultural machinery evolved and cattle power was no longer needed was because the meat quality of cattle, which lived on grass containing many minerals unique to an island surrounded by the sea, was excellent as food cattle.

What is Iki beef?

Currently, about 13,000 head of cattle are raised in Iki, including bred cattle of all types, but only 900 head of Iki beef can be shipped out each year. The reason for the small number of cattle shipped is that there are strict regulations for raising Iki beef. There are four regulations. It must be black Japanese beef born and raised on Iki Island. It must be raised by a member of the Iki City Agricultural Cooperative Association’s fattening section. The cattle must be fed our original formula feed “Ichishikoku”. The meat quality grade must be 3rd grade or higher. If these conditions are not met, the beef is not recognized as Iki beef. The fat of Iki beef has a low melting point and is rich and sharp, while the lean meat is rich in flavor and tender. Its deliciousness and rarity increase the value of Iki beef.

In fact, it is a hidden production area of calves for fattening famous brand beef.

The quality of calves born in Iki is highly evaluated by fattening farmers throughout Japan, and it is not unusual for fattening farmers of famous brand cattle such as Tajima beef and Matsuzaka beef, for example, to come to Iki to purchase calves. In other words, there are not a few cases where calves born in Iki are raised outside the island and shipped as local brand beef. Not only calves, but also bulls born on Iki are highly evaluated nationwide. In the Wagyu world, in fact, elite cattle born in Iki are active.

Until “Iki beef” is shipped

What kind of process does the rare Iki beef go through before being shipped? The rough flow is as follows. First, the Iki beef calves born by artificial insemination are kept and managed as “fattening cows” at the breeding farmer. The calves are raised for 8 to 10 months at the farmer’s farm, and then go to the livestock market. Here, the calves are taken over by the fattening farmers and carefully cared for for about 20 months. Iki beef calves are raised to be well-fed and then shipped to the meat market, where they spend their time in peace and quiet without ever leaving the island.

To Umeshima Chikusan, a fattening farmer in Iki Island

It was late April when I visited a seaside cattle barn near Kintohira Shrine on the east side of Iki Island. In the clean barn of “Umeshima Livestock Breeding,” which smelled of rice straw, the wind from the sea was blowing comfortably, and the beautiful black Iki cows were spending their time peacefully.

Umeshima Chikusan, which handles everything from fattening to restaurant management and meat sales, is run by second-generation brothers Hideaki and Kazuyuki Umeshima. About 20 years ago, they started producing “Iki Beef” as a brand name beef. My father, who was originally a breeding farmer, switched to being a fattening farmer around that time, and that is where we are today,” says Kazuyuki, the younger brother in charge of the fattening operation. Currently, 150-200 head of cattle live in the sanitary barn.

Healthy fattening environment

Kazuyuki gently watches over the cows as they leisurely eat their feed in the well-maintained barn. The rich environment of the island is nurturing the cows born and raised on Iki in good health. What the cattle are eating now is a feed called “Ichishikoku,” a special formula feed for Iki cattle that was produced at the JA Kitakyushu Kumiai Feed Fukuoka Plant about 15 years ago by members of the Iki City Agricultural Cooperative Association’s Fattening Division, who were aiming for better meat quality.

In addition to preparing the breeding environment, Kazuyuki also pays close attention to the physical condition of the cattle. He says that the second to third months after the cows are brought into the barn as calves is a particularly important period. During this period, it is essential to build up the stomachs of the calves so that they are able to eat grass-based meals, which will promote their subsequent fattening. If calves have strong stomachs when they are calves, they will be able to take in compound feed when they are in the prime of their lives and grow up to be large and healthy. Even with all the love and care that goes into raising cattle in this way, there are still some cows that die from disease. They need to be especially careful about sudden onset of illnesses.

As a fattening farmer, the most important thing is to observe the cows carefully. Cows cannot talk, but they tell us many things with their attitude. They may be sitting in an unusual place, or their heads may be slightly down… We must not miss such small signs.

The work of a fattening farmer is 365 days a year, with not a single day off. Physical strength, experience, and knowledge are essential, as well as love and passion. I love cows. It is that love that keeps me going,” smiles Kazuyuki. The Iki beef from Umeshima Livestock Breeding, for which he spends a great deal of time, effort, and love, has won many awards, including the Gold Prize at the 40th Kyushu Beef Beef Carcass Show, the Grand Prize at the 2010 Opening Memorial Meat Fair (beef carcass), and the Gold Prize at the 7th Iki City Wagyu Beef Breeding Show (beef cattle category).

To “Ajidokoro Umeshima,” a restaurant directly managed by Umeshima Chikusan

A 10-minute drive from the cattle barn. Ajijidokoro Umeshima” is directly managed by “Umeshima Livestock Breeding,” located right in front of Ashibe Port. The restaurant is popular among locals and tourists alike for its reasonably-priced dishes such as filet steak, special roast, and grilled beef, all of which are made from high-quality Iki beef, which is tender and bright red with cream-colored tannins. The restaurant also has a direct sales shop, from which Iki beef can be shipped nationwide.

The restaurant is run by Hideaki Umeshima, the older of the Umeshima brothers. Hideaki, who aspires to be a chef, founded the restaurant to fulfill his father’s wish to “provide our customers with beef that we have raised with great care with our own hands. About 30 years ago, my father, who had just started out as a fattening farmer, participated in a cattle show for the first time and the results were not good. However, my father used the results as a springboard to say, ‘From now on, I’m going to raise high-quality cattle in Iki! He was inspired. Now, every time I hear a customer say how delicious our beef is, I remember how hopeful and strong my father was at that time,” he says. Thanks to my father and his predecessors, Iki beef is here, the culture of Iki, and our lives. I have nothing but gratitude. I am confident and proud that my younger brother is currently raising better Iki beef.

The Future of Umeshima Farm

People and cattle have lived together on Iki Island since ancient times. The high-quality compost produced from Iki cattle is used for rice cultivation, and the straw from this is used to feed the cattle, once again raising healthy Iki cattle. In this way, cyclical agriculture has been practiced on the island since ancient times. Today, asparagus, one of the island’s main crops, is grown using compost from Iki cattle, and is highly regarded throughout the country. In other words, sustainable agriculture has been practiced on Iki Island for a long time, and is now evolving even further. My wish is that Iki beef will continue to be appreciated as delicious 100 years from now, and even after that. I would be happy if young people from inside and outside of the island who have hope will want to raise cattle on Iki, an island of primary industry,” says Hideaki. From his words, we could sense his generous personality and deep love for the island, born from its history as a center of cultural exchange and its blessed natural environment.

The post Umeshima Livestock Breeding,” which carefully carries on the tradition of “Iki beef,” a famous beef born and raised in Iki/Iki City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.