Acting out “the place where gods dwell”.

Kagura is a form of ritual performing art, and the word derives from “”kamukura”” which means “”the place where gods dwell””. It is believed that the songs and dances performed at these places eventually came to be called Kagura. The origin of Kagura is said to be the “”Legend of Ama no Iwado”” mentioned in Japanese mythology.
According to the legend, Amaterasu Omikami, the sun goddess, became so outraged by her brother, Susanooo-no-Mikoto for his violent deeds, that she hid herself in a cave. Because she was a sun goddess, the world was thrown into a state of total darkness, and all the other gods and goddesses gathered at Amano Yasugawara to think of ways to lure her out. They decided to hold a banquet in front of the cave. During the banquet, a skillful dancer, Ameno Uzumeno Mikoto, performed her dance, making the other gods roar with laughter. The joyous sounds peaked her interest, and Amaterasu wanted to see what the fun was. As she opened the door of the cave to take a peak, Tajikarao-no-mikoto flung the door open, and light was returned to the world.

Night of mythology

The cave where Amaterasu Omikami hid, is Amano Iwado in Takachiho, and it is now a famous place of worship known as Amano Iwado Shrine. “”The Night Kagura of Takachiho””, which is performed to give thanks for the harvest and to pray for a fertile season for the following year, is designated as an Important National Intangible Folk Cultural Property. From late November to mid February, a series of 33 scenes are performed at various Kagura venues.
In addition, Night Kagura is performed for tourists every night at the Kagura performing hall on the Takachiho Shrine premises. Out of 33 Kagura scenes, shortened versions of the 4 representative episodes are performed: Tajikarao’s dance depicting the opening of the cave door, Uzume’s dance, Todori’s dance, and the humorous dance of Izanagino-mikoto and Izanamino-mikoto depicting “”sake”” making. Even though the performance is meant for tourists, you can still enjoy the dances accompanied by drums and flutes. It is worthwhile to spend the night to experience the world of mythology.

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Passing on the legends to the present

Amano Iwato Shrine is located about 7 kilometers to the northeast of the center of Takachiho-cho. It is a shrine which passes on the famous legend of Amano Iwato.
The legend of the Amano Iwato goes like this. One day, Amaterasu-Omikami, the sun goddess, became so outraged by her brother, Susanoo-no-Mikoto for his violent deeds, that she hid herself in a cave. Because she was a sun goddess, the world was thrown into a state of total darkness, and all the other gods and goddesses gathered at Amano Yasugawara to think of ways to lure her out. They decided to hold a banquet in front of the cave. During the banquet, a skillful dancer, Ameno Uzumeno Mikoto, performed her dance, making the other gods roar with laughter. The joyous sounds peaked her interest, and Amaterasu wanted to see what the fun was. As she opened the door of the cave to take a peak, Tajikarao-no-mikoto flung the door open, and light was returned to the world.

Surrounded by nature from ancient times

At Amano Iwato Shrine, Amano Iwato, the cave in which Amaterasu-Omikami is said to have hidden, is designated as an object of worship. There are two shrines on the east and west side of Iwato River. The East Shrine is dedicated to Amaterasu-Omikami, and the West Shrine is dedicated to “”Amano Iwaya””. “”Amano Iwato”” is a holy sanctuary, so trespassing is prohibited, but if you inquire at the shrine office, you will be shown to the observation deck. When you walk about ten minutes from the West Shrine, there is Amano Yasukawara, where the all the gods and goddesses gathered to have a discussion. Many people visit here, because it is said that if you stack stones and make a wish, the wish will come true.

Kunimi-ga-Oka, a famous spot for sea of ​​clouds

We then drove a ways to visit Kunimigaoka. This is the place known for the sea of clouds. Legend has it that the grandson of Emperor Jinmu, Tate Watatsumi-no-Mikoto, looked down over the countries of Kyushu from this hill, and prayed for success in the unification of Kyushu. Thus the name Kuni (countries) mi (look). From the hill 513 meters in altitude, one can observe the entire Takachiho Basin, spreading along the Gokase River, a splendid scenery representative of Takachiho.

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A Japanese style hotel where legends took place

All the floors of the hotel are covered with “”tatami mats””, so the visitors can enjoy the Japanese style relaxation. Surrounded by Takachiho’s nature, Shinsen offers a friendly hospitality where you can enjoy the beauty of the four seasons. The new accommodation area “”Kamuroki no Sho””, opened in August 2009, is a spiritual space suitable for the mythological village of Takachiho. Both of the two new rooms in the annex have outdoor baths, with a spacious 100 square meters including private gardens. The view of the setting sun is beautiful from the exclusive outdoor baths in the annex.

The hotel has ten guest rooms, eight in the main building and two in the annex, eight of which have private outdoor baths, with the remaining two having indoor baths made totally of Japanese cypress. You can forget about the hustle and bustle of everyday life, and immerse yourself in luxury.
In the hotel, there is also a “”yukata”” room where around 40 yukata and sashes are available. They will help you to put on the “”yukata”” free of charge, so do enjoy the unusual experience of dressing in Japanese style.

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Leading producer of freshwater eels

Miyazaki ranks third in the production of eels, after Kagoshima and Aichi. We were told that in Saito-shi, a town with a population of about 33,000, there is an eel restaurant that has been in business for more than 100 years since the Meiji era, and very popular among the locals. We decided to take a visit.
Founded in 27th year of Meiji (1894), “”Unagi no Irifune”” is such a popular restaurant that customers come not only from within Miyazaki, but also from other prefectures by bus. There are always long lines, so they prepared an air-conditioned annex as a waiting area. The parking garage is large enough to accommodate large buses.
The set menu consists of grilled eel, homemade “”go”” soup, rice, pickles and eel liver on a skewer. They serve selected domestic eel, mainly from Miyazaki, but also from Kagoshima and Aichi. The eel is grilled over charcoal, and served with a secret recipe sauce.

Different ways of cooking eels, according to the region

Did you know that eels are prepared differently in the western and eastern regions of Japan? In eastern Japan, the eels are split open along the spine, grilled as is, then steamed to remove excess fat. In western Japan, the eels are cut on the belly side, and roasted crisp. The eels at Irifune are prepared in western Japanese style. The eels are well roasted over Bincho charcoal to give the eels a pleasant aroma.

The “go” soup brings out the flavor of the eel

The “go” soup, served with the roasted eels, is made from soybeans soaked in water overnight, ground and melted into “miso” soup or clear soup. It is said this soup enhances the taste of the eel, and it is a popular dish on the menu. Their hours of operation differ by month, so be sure to check their website in advance. They also ship the eels nationwide, so if you are interested, please order from the website below.

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The entire town working together

“Good morning.” People come one after another with vegetables in their hands, and greet each other cheerfully. ”Aya Tezukuri Honmono Center” located in Aya-cho, Miyazaki Prefecture is a direct sales center for organic agricultural crops. Based on the town’s own safety standards, it sells produce ranked gold, silver and copper. The vegetables are brought in by the local farmers themselves, and vegetables are arranged on the shelf of their choice. It is also up to them to decide the price. Some people exchange homemade dishes there, and for those who bring the vegetables, it also serves as a place of gathering to chat and see each other.

“Aya – cho” Town-wide Initiative

Aya-cho is located in the middle of Miyazaki prefecture and is surrounded by the Ayakita River and Ayaminami River of the central mountainous region of Kyushu. It is one of Japan’s biggest laurel forest zone. It was designated as Kyushu-Chuo Sanchi Semi-national Park in 1986, and it serves as an important habitat for plants, birds, animals, and fish. Aya-cho is also famous for their efforts to use organic farming, involving the entire town, serving as a model for other municipalities. Attracted by the fact that the entire town was involved in the endeavor, we decided to visit Aya-cho.

Why don’t or aren’t able to go organic

“In Aya-cho, they have established an institution that provides local farmers with advice for making good soil. They have also established an independent standard for healthy soil making and cultivation of farmland, and a crop cultivation management standard. In organic farming, soil conditions influence the taste, shape, color, and the appearance of crops. Soil making is very important, so they also place great effort into compost production, in order to preserve the ecology of the microorganisms in the soil. This also allows them to draw out the original power of the soil to create an environment suitable for the growth of the crops. An “”Aya method”” self-sufficient fertilizer supply facility was built, and compost circulation of waste was also implemented, helping to reduce waste while creating great soil. These initiatives have helped reduce CO2, water pollution, organic waste and the use of chemical pesticides, contributing to the reduction of environmental stress.

Why can’t we choose “organic”?

With the recent interest in how food tastes as well as food safety, what prevents the farmers from choosing to go organic? We discussed the issue with farmers who operated organic farms. When we asked if it was possible for all farmers to operate the ideal style of agriculture and still make a living, we were told it was not. This was true even in an environment like Aya-ho. Even farmers who have been practicing organic farming for 10 years still find it difficult to make a stable income, requiring some to take on second jobs.

Always looking ahead

When running an organic farm, one is faced with the problem of weeds and insects. Some farmers pluck them manually, some incorporate the duck farming method, but either way it requires hard work and a lot of labor, so it is difficult to expand the farmland, and as a result, the yield is limited. There is also the problem of lack of successors in Aya-cho, just like all other farming areas.
There is a prefectural group of second generation farmers who work together and operate as a support system, but there will still be a serious shortage of labor when the elderly farmers retire. There is the added problem of limited sales channels. Sales channels must be expanded where the products can compete based on quality and taste. Although there are direct sales shops like the one introduced earlier, in order to attract more customers, there needs to be greater awareness of the quality and safety of the products.
Progressing from the initial stage where the novelty of organic farming was enough, the second stage requires something more than being organic or pesticide free. Although there are many challenges and issues that need to be addressed, the people in Aya-cho seemed to be proud of what they were accomplishing, and their expressions were filled with satisfaction and fulfillment as they looked ahead to the future. It will definitely be interesting to see how Aya-cho develops over the next 10 to 20 years.

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A Japanese style inn with Jizo

“Jizoan” is a hidden inn, where the guests are limited to six parties per day. The inn is built in the old style of a wealthy farm house, and has quite a nostalgic aura. Inside, there are earthen walls and wooden doors with grids, thick beams, exposed ceramic insulators, a small garden between the “doma” and the annex, all of which conjure create a nostalgic ambience, bringing comfort and relief. There are maisonette type rooms, two adjoining rooms, and rooms with semi-open private baths, all in different tastes. A “”Jizo-sama”” stands quietly in the small garden, which must account for the origin of the inn’s name. It is pleasant to see the local wildflowers that are casually arranged everywhere, a sign of warm hospitality.

Miyazaki also has high-quality hot springs

There are many famous “”onsen”” in Kyushu including Yufuin, Beppu and Kurokawa Onsen, and Miyazaki is not thought of as a major “”onsen”” resort. However, there is a good “”onsen””, an “alkaline cold spa” which is effective for fatigue and skin conditions. Three private bathing areas, two indoor and one outdoor, are available to the guests, so you can take as much time as you want to enjoy the bath. Another perk of the inn is the “kaiseki” cuisine in “”Jizo-style””. They offer colorful seasonal dishes made from local products. Enjoy the sweet shrimps of Aoshima, Ise lobsters, Miyazaki beef, together with the rice made by the exclusive farmers.

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A workshop in the center of a tourist area

In the abundance of nature with the largest laurel forest in Japan, and designated as one of the “100 Selected Water Spots” by the National Land Agency, Aya factory was founded in 1985 as a third sector project with Unkai Shuzo. After a while, full-scale tours were set up to establish the factory as a center of tourism for Aya-cho, and it gradually developed into a tourism theme park as the number of visitors increased.

In Shusen no Mori, you can observe the process of “sake” making, and you can also taste and purchase “shochu”, “sake” and freshly made wine. Also on the premises are Aya Museum of Antiques, Aya Traditional Craft Museum and Glass Art Workshop.

Encountering the work of artisans

The Glass Art Workshop is led by Kuniaki, who is designated as the first “Contemporary Master Craftsman” among glass artisans in 1991, and received a Yellow Ribbon Medal in 2006. He is considered one of the leading figures of contemporary Japanese glass craftwork.

Many works are exhibited and sold, including his representative work, “Korin” series, which are luxurious and gorgeous pieces with gold leaves and platinum foils scattered among several layers of glass, combining such techniques as embedding and color glass. In addition, visitors can have a tour in the workshop, experience glass craftwork for themselves.

※ ”Contemporary Master Craftsman” ・・・　A system of Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare that honors outstandingly skilled craft workers. Once a year, the Award for Outstandingly Skilled Workers and other awards are given by the Minister of Health, Labor and Welfare.

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Embraced by the forest, moment of serenity

In March 2008, “”Nemu no hana”” was opened at the foot of Inohae Valley which is designated as a place for forest therapy. With “a sense of luxury that is integrated with nature” as a theme, they have 10 detached guest rooms of modern design, intended to offer maximum privacy and luxury. In the large private garden where one can hear the calming sounds of birds and bubbling streams, there is an outdoor bath and deck chairs, which offer the time and space to truly relax.

All the guest rooms are detached rooms with open-air baths offering a view of the valley. Wisteria and silk tree flowers bloom in the spring, and you can enjoy the seasonal scenery in all the other seasons as well. In the evening the lights of the hotel are warmly lit, and the buildings of a new yet old-fashioned atmosphere create a fantastic sight.
Among the villages in Miyazaki, Kitasato is known to have plenty of fresh ingredients unique to this region such as yam, radish, burdock and other root vegetables, river shrimp and ayu fish. One of the joys of staying at this hotel is that you will be served the cuisine made from the finest local ingredients with the theme of “seasonal vegetables and seafood delicacies”.

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A place which tells the important history of Kyushu

Obi Castle is surrounded by a natural fortress; on the east, west and south side is the Sakatani River serving as a natural moat, and on the north side is the forest. It is said to have been built in Nanbokucho period. From the late Muromachi period, there was constant conflict between the Shimazu family of Satsuma and the Ito family of Hyuga, and many battles were fought over the ownership of Obi Castle. The 90 years of battle ended when the Ito family fled to the country of Bungo of Otomo family. However, in the 15th year of Tensho (1587), Suketaka Ito performed a great feat during the Kyushu conquest by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, and was granted a large piece of land (51,000 goku) and became the lord of the Obi Castle. After that, Obi Castle was the seat of the Ito clan, until the Meiji period. The castle we see today is the remains of what was rebuilt after it was greatly damaged by the earthquake in 1684.

The atmospheric scenery of Obi Castle Town

In Obi Castle town, the houses are laid out in a neat grid pattern, and the waterways along them were once used for fire protection and for domestic use, but now carps swim in them, giving the town a very pleasant atmosphere. If you want to see around the town, it is not very big, so we recommend renting a bicycle at the train station or at the Castle parking lot.

Experience “Shihan Mato”, a recreation of “samurais”

There is a shooting gallery of “Shihan Mato” in the vicinity of the Obi Castle. There is a distance of 4 and half Ken (about 8.2 meters) to the target, the length of the bow and arrow are 4 and half Shaku (1.37m), and the width of the target is 4 and half Sun (13.6cm), so they are all “4 and half”: thus the name Shihan (4 and half) Mato (target). This game of “Shihan Mato” has an old history, and in the period of the Warring States, samurai warriors of south Kyushu enjoyed the game recreationally.
It only remained in the Obi region as a recreational game, and rules were developed as a sport, with matches being held in and outside the town. It is much easier than ordinary archery, requiring less power because the bow and arrow are smaller and easier to draw. It’s worth a challenge when you visit Obi.

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Flying fish scooping at Cape Toi, Kushima-shi

The sea around Kushima-shi, Miyazaki is an area where fishery has prospered, because the Kuroshio Current is complicated and various fish live in the natural reefs. Net-fishing for flying fish, which was transmitted from Tanegashima Island in the Genroku period, is very actively practiced, and the area is known for the flying fish.
From June to September, you can experience flying fish catching. The boats leave the port in the dark of the night, and flying fish will come flying towards the fishing lights, allowing you to scoop them up mid-air using hand held nets. They can get as large as 40 cm, and it is a suitable activity for women and children to challenge, making it a popular activity.
The flying fish can fly as far as 400 meters along the surface of the sea, with its streamlined body and pectoral fins. You may catch other kinds of fish, too, and it’s a fun activity. If you are lucky enough to hit a school of flying fish, you may catch more than you can eat. You can enjoy the fish as “sashimi”, which taste light and refreshing. A must do, if you are visiting Miyazaki in summer.

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